Sandwich Smash e-Book

table of
contents
page 4 hello
page 6 contributors
page 8 sandwiches fight hunger
page 10 meet the chefs
photos by Gabreil Fredericks
page 32 the united states of sandwiches
page 56 eating a regional sandwich
how to behave
page 62 interview with a brewmaster
sandwiches & beer with michelob
page 66 capogiro gelato
the only way to follow a great sandwich
page 68 potato chip pairings
we layer our chips into our sandwiches
page 72 recipes
page 76 sponsors & credits
Page

hello
A city’s stories are told through its food.
And sandwiches are great conversation starters.
When we started writing about sandwiches around our
hometown of Philadelphia, we quickly learned we had
tapped into something much bigger than ingredients and
bread. We found a city’s history; we found cultures with
deep culinary roots; and we wanted to find the people and
the stories behind the bread.
Sandwiches have a long history as blue collar food: they
basically served as a workingman’s complete meal—meat,
cheese, some sort of vegetable on bread. That’s why we
believe that Philadelphia is the sandwich capital of the
country. Once called the “workshop of the world,” it
was this country’s biggest factory town. At the turn of the
century, boatloads of skilled workers from Eastern and
Western Europe arrived, creating a patchwork of ethnic
neighborhoods, each dotted with its own bakeries,
butchers, and mom-and-pop corner grocers—and each
with their own distinctive cured meat sandwiches, from
Old World German-style bologna to Italian capicolla.
Although most of the factories are now closed, the
neighborhoods remain, and many of the city’s great
sandwiches are still served from small luncheonettes,
corner storefronts, food trucks, and trailers near the
waterfront docks.
We believe it doesn’t matter if you get a cheesesteak or
an Italian hoagie, a chicken cutlet with broccoli rabe or a
banh mi. We just want to you to think about that sandwich
you’re eating; to appreciate where it came from; and to
be a part of a broader conversation.
Jeff Vogel Ben Kessler
jeff@unbreaded.com ben@unbreaded.com
Sandwich Smash 2009 Hello
*********************************************
Page Page

contributors
Jeff Vogel is the co-creator and Managing Director of
Unbreaded and Sandwich Smash, both born out of a desire
to take a deeper look at what goes into the great sand-
wiches of a sandwich-rich city like Philadelphia. Prior to his
work on Unbreaded, he served as Marketing Director for
Philadelphia-based technology firm NeatReceipts, recog-
nized as the city’s fastest growing company in 2007 and
2008. A lifelong Philadelphian, Vogel speaks kosher deli
fluently and thinks everything tastes better when it’s been
braised: “There’s something primal about holding onto your
food and taking a bite that is far superior to eating with
utensils.”
Ben Kessler found a way to combine his lifelong interests in
technology and the culinary arts as co-creator and Director
of Communications for Unbreaded and Sandwich Smash.
A fan of fine cured meats and crusty breads, Kessler finds
Philadelphia to be the perfect home, and Italian hoagies,
the perfect sandwiches. It is the history behind sandwiches
and the stories they tell that captures Ben’s interest in
all things between bread: “Sandwiches are not only an
efficient, easy-to-manage meal, they encapsulate who
we are, our personality defined through meat, cheese
and condiments.”
Sandwich Smash 2009 Contributors
Esquire Food Editor Ryan D’Agostino is a passionate home
cook and believer in the culinary wisdom that “less is more
unless more has a point.” He is the editor of Esquire maga-
zine’s food pages, including special feature packages like
“Encyclopedia of Sandwiches and “The Almanac of Steak,”
winner of the 2009 ASME National Magazine Award: “For
me, one of the best parts about cooking at home is having
some leftovers to jam between slices of bread the next day
— usually with the addition of a fried egg.”
Journalist partner Francine Maroukian, who specializes in
recipe-driven kitchen/chef-culture stories, American city/
signature food packages, and culinary history of the coun-
try’s site specific foods, is a contributor to Travel + Leisure,
Garden Gun, and Esquire, where her work includes
“Encyclopedia of Sandwiches,” and “The Steak Almanac,”
winner of the 2009 ASME National Magazine Award:
“Sandwiches are democracy in action.”
Page Page

sandwiches
fight
hunger.
sandwiches
fight
hunger
Sandwich Smash has partnered with Philabundance,
the region’s largest community food bank, to organize
a peanut butter and jelly food drive in the Philadelphia
community.
Thanks to generous donations from our corporate
partners, Stroehmann Baking Company and ShopRite
Partners In Caring, we have received significant
quantities of bread, peanut butter and jelly for low-
income families in the region.
But there’s more that can be done. People
and businesses throughout the Delaware Valley are
encouraged to send unopened jars of
peanut butter and jelly to Philabundance
to help fight hunger and malnutrition.
**********************************************************
partners
how you can give
make a donation to Philabundance
- -
request free shipping supplies
from the USPS
- -
drop off food directly to
Philabundance’s warehouse
- -
hold a peanut butter food drive
in your office
- -
buy the Sandwiches Fight Hunger t-shirt
sandwichesfighthunger.com
Page Page
Sandwich Smash 2009 Sandwiches Fight Hunger

Sandwich Smash 2009 Meet The Chefs
Page 10 Page 11
meet
the
chefs
photos by
Gabriel Fredericks

*******************************************************************************************
Chef
Peter McAndrews
Paesano’s
Philadelphia native son Peter Mc Andrews is the chef /
owner of Modo Mio, a BYOB serving personal interpretations
of classic regional dishes, and Paesano’s: Philly Style, which
quickly became a citywide sandwich institution. Although
McAndrews is French-trained, he says he first connected with
his true culinary calling on his honeymoon to Italy: “At its roots,
Italian cuisine is like unpretentious French food.”
the
Best Italian Hoagie
WIP Sports Radio
- -
Best New BYOB, Best Prix Fixe,
Best Sandwich Shop
Philadelphia Magazine
Page 12
Page 13

**********************************************************
tattoo worthy ingredient
A whole pig being suckled by human beings.
sandwich wisdom
It’s all about balance. Don’t be cautious, but don’t over-do
it either. More isn’t always better.
most memorable sandwich and where
The first time I had a great sub was in Hoboken. It had
complete balance, with arugula rather than iceberg
and a touch of vinegar.
guilty pleasure sandwich
Easy. Lasagna Bolognese and a fried egg
on a sesame roll.
Chef
Peter McAndrews
Paesano’s
Page 14
Page 15

**********************************************************************************
Michael Solomonov showcases his Mediterranean and
Middle Eastern roots at the nationally acclaimed Zahav,
his award-winning restaurant dedicated to modern Israeli
cuisine. A graduate of the Florida Culinary Institute in West
Palm Beach, Solomonov was formerly Executive Chef at
Marigold Kitchen in West Philadelphia, a co-venture with
restaurateur/chef Steven Cook. Their other culinary projects
include Xochitl, serving authentic Mexican cuisine, and
Percy Street, dedicated to hard-wood smoked barbecue:
“I am trying to modernize Israeli gastronomy while still
remaining pure to the flavors and techniques of each
comprising culture.”
the
2009 Rising Star Chef nominee
James Beard Foundation
- -
Best Restaurant
--
50 Best New U.S. Restaurants
Travel + Leisure
--
Listed in Best New Restaurants
Esquire
Chef
Michael Solomonov
Zahav
Page 16
Page 17

Chef
Michael Solomonov
Zahav
Olives with olive branches. I’m probably going to get this inked
in the next year or so.
sandwich wisdom
Minimalism is key; the right proportion of bread to meat and
veg. has to be considered, otherwise it won’t eat well.
The tuna with artichoke at Capogiro on 13th street. It is so
balanced with the use of classic ingredients: olive oil poached
tuna + olive paste + artichokes + ciabatta = $ in the bank.
Junior bacon cheeseburger from Wendy’s. I usually order
two, stack them, and consume them together. I don’t
usually feel good about myself afterward though.
Page 18
Page 19

**********************************************************************************
Mark Coates grew up in Forrest, Mississippi, once
deemed the “Chicken Capital of the World.” Although
he can remember barbecuing 10,000 birds for the annual
“Broiler Festival,” he soon took to pig, drawing upon his
family’s North Carolina roots. Inspired by an article about
the need to reinvigorate Philadelphia’s Italian Market,
Coates opened Bebe’s Barbecue, named after his grand-
mother whose own mother ran a Depression-era boarding
house in Greenville, Mississippi and left a legacy of recipes:
“Bebe’s Mamma Chad had a kitchen full of women
cooking round-the-clock.”
the
Best Barbecue
Mark Coates
Bebe’s Barbecue
Page 20
Page 21

Wood-smoked meat, for its mythical quality.
sandwich wisdom
For me, it’s all about the meat; the bread should melt away.
A Cubano at Havana, located on the corner of Forrest Hill
Boulevard and Wet Dixie Highway in West Palm Beach.
My grandmother’s big fat tomato sandwich with about a
half pound of bacon and lots of mayonnaise (that’s turned
pink from the tomatoes) oozing out the sides of the soft
white bread.
Mark Coates
Bebe’s Barbecue
Page 22
Page 23

Rick Olivieri
Rick’s Steaks
**********************************************************************************
Rick Olivieri is the grandson of Pat Olivieri, known as the
creator and originator of the World Famous Philadelphia
Steak Sandwich. In 1982, Olivieri and his father opened their
first store together: Olivieri Prince of Steaks, located within
the historic Reading Terminal Market. The family crown was
officially passed on when he reopened that store as “Rick’s
Original Philly Steaks,” now located Downstairs at The
Bellevue: “Food is an international language, and everyday
we serve customers from all over the world.”
the
Best Ballpark Eats
Food Network Awards
Page 24
Page 25

A slab of steak with a crown on top as a tribute to my
grandfather, the “Steak King.”
sandwich wisdom
Always use top quality ingredients, even though
they cost a little more.
Prosciutto and provolone from a great little deli called “The
Cheese Shop” on the Duke of Gloucester St in Williamsburg VA.
Incredibly good!!
Nick’s Roast Beef with Provolone “Extra Wet”. A classic.
Rick Olivieri
Rick’s Steaks
Page 26
Page 27

*****************************************************************************************************************************************************
Arthur Cavaliere, a graduate of Pennsylvania State
University who holds a Bachelor’s Degree in English, worked
his way from bus boy at a local diner to lead the kitchen at
STARR Restaurant’s modern brasserie Parc. The former Sous
Chef and then Executive Chef at El Vez assisted with the
successful opening of Buddakan and The Continental at The
Pier in Atlantic City before assuming his current position as
Parc’s Executive Chef: “At times I feel like an accountant
who wears a chef’s coat, but then I realize that a calcula-
tor would do me no good in trying to feed 1000 people 65
different things.”
the
Best Bread
Chef
Arthur Cavaliere
Parc
Page 28 Page 29

*************************************************************
An artichoke; a plain old artichoke, the greatest
ingredient God ever created.
sandwich wisdom
Hard bread, hard fillers; soft bread, soft fillers.
Growing up on my mother’s cream cheese and olive sandwich
on toasted wheat bread—3 days a week for 14 years.
Egg salad with bacon, always on rye toast with
extra toast on the side to sop up the spillage.
Chef
Arthur Cavaliere
Parc
Page 30 Page 31

the united
states of
sandwiches
the
united
states
of
sand-
wiches
Sandwich Smash 2009 The United States of Sandwiches
Page 32
lobster
roll
barbecue
clam roll
pastrami
italian
beef
hoagie
cubano
muffuletta
green chile
cheeseburger
fish
tacos
banh mi
po’boy
Page 33

Page 34
While we are big believers in the
sandwich freedom —whatever fits
between your bread —there are
certain combinations we wouldn’t
dream of changing. These are our
country’s regional iconic sandwiches,
and they can be used to reveal the
roots of local immigration and
determine exactly what each ethnic
group brought to the community
culture. As the quickest way to layer
the tastes of the old country into
the new, sandwiches are probably
our original fusion food.
Page 35

A throwback to the days when the Lower East Side of
Manhattan was the epicenter of Eastern European
immigration, packed with pushcart peddlers and
synagogues, pastrami has deep Jewish roots, even
appearing as a cultural stereotype in Woody Allen’s great
urban romance Annie Hall (1977), when Midwestern
transplant Hall (Diane Keaton) orders a “pastrami on white
bread with, uh, mayonnaise and tomatoes and lettuce,”
and New Yorker Alvy Singer (Woody) looks embarrassed
and then a little afraid.
pastrami
in New York
pastrami
Page 36 Page 37

Since the earliest colonial days, shell fishing has been
a vital part of New England’s coastal economy, from
Maine’s lobster fishing (probably the oldest, continuously
operated industry on the North American continent) to
clamming in Connecticut (Native Americans showed
colonists how to harvest clams, carving the white shells into
beads used for currency or “wampum”). We think a heap
of lobster or fried clams in a roll that requires a good grip
is nothing more than a device to turn seafood into heavier,
heartier family fare. A regional requirement: both must be
served on a toasted top-loading New England hot dog
bun, which looks like a small rectangular “box” made of
white bread.
Sandwich Smash 2009
lobster clam roll
from Maine
to Connecticut
Page 38
lobster
roll
clam roll
Page 39

Philadelphia is the largest fresh water port in the world
and the city’s famous hoagie was reportedly named for
the Italian immigrants who labored in the iron and steel
building naval shipyards on Hog Island (the world’s larg-
est shipyard during WWI). The “hoggie” was a meal on the
move with all the flavors of home: an assortment of cured
pork meats (prosciutto, sopressata and coppa), sharp
provolone cheese, and a makeshift salad of sorts (lettuce,
tomatoes, onions and hot peppers, dressed with oil, vinegar
and a pinch of dried oregano). The bread—typically
a crunchy seeded crust with a soft but substantial interior—
was merely transportation.
the hoagie
in Philadelphia
hoagie
Page 40 Page 41

Despite the talk about urban multiculturalism, the most
complex culinary unions in this country were in the rural
south, where Afro-Caribbean slaves and European land-
owners entwined their open-fire cooking techniques and
native ingredients into “plantation”-style cooking. As cultish
as barbecue has become, it was also the country’s most
democratic form of cooking: slaves may have cooked it, but
landowners staged it, and if you look at history you will see
great pit masters from diverse backgrounds. Today you will
still find significant sandwich variations according to specific
regionality, from method (whether the meat is chopped or
pulled) or flavor base (from vinegar to tomato).
barbecue
in North Carolina
barbecue
Page 42 Page 43

The Cubano was reportedly designed to feed Cuban
cigar factory workers transported to southern Florida, and
in the same fashion as other iconic regional sandwiches, it
starts with the bread: an 8-inch roll typically made with
lard, which accounts for its lightness, under a slathering of
butter, sugar-cured Bolo ham, Swiss cheese, and slow-
roasted marinated pork (lechon asado) with a tiny dagger
of tanginess from thinly sliced pickle and its juices needed
to pierce the richness of the fillings. The plancha (or press)
toasts the bread and warms the ingredients directly in
their own steam.
the cubano
in
Miami
cubano
Page 44 Page 45

Like two dialects of the same language, the muffuletta
is exactly the same as a hoagie—only different. Because
90% of New Orleans’ turn-of-the-century’s Italian immigrants
were from Sicily, their wharf worker sandwich is on round,
soft, slightly hollow Sicilian bread (or muffuletta) and typical
salad toppings are translated into an idiosyncratic pickled
olive-laden vegetable medley, distantly related to capon-
nata, a sweet and sour eggplant relish reminder that Sicily
is a leading olive and caper growing area.
There’s also links between NOLA’s shrimp/oyster
po’ boy and Connecticut’s fried clam roll: (1) both turn
local seafood into heartier fare, and (2) both are served
on distinctive bread. New Orleans–style French bread from
the celebrated Leidenheimer Bakery has a lightly crisp
crust and interior as airy as cotton candy.
the muffuleta
po’boy in
New Orleans
muffuletta
po’boy
Page 46 Page 47
The United States of Sandwiches

Although they are practically non-existent in the rest of
the country, you can get a green chile cheeseburger just
about anywhere in New Mexico. Ever since Sixteenth Cen-
tury Spanish Conquistadors led settlers along the El Camino
Real (the first European road in North America, stretching
from Mexico City to Santa Fe), this land has been part of the
Mexican frontier, and on it they grow more green chiles
(the state’s top cash crop) than anywhere else in the country.
green chile
cheeseburger
in New Mexico
green chile
cheeseburger
Page 48 Page 49

A convergence of three cultures—Californian, Mexican
and Baja surf—the fish taco is a link to New England’s
lobster roll and fried clam sandwich, probably created when
some hungry guy wrapped the catch-of- the-day in bread
as a way to produce a sold meal: corn tortilla, batter fried
fish, crema blanca, salsa, shredded cabbage (won’t wilt like
lettuce) and squeeze of fresh lime juice.
fish taco
in southern
California
fish
taco
Page 50 Page 51
Sandwich Smash 2009

An example of a double immigration sandwich, the
baguette-style roll (lightened with rice flour) emerged dur-
ing the French colonization of Vietnam. But the Vietnamese
who migrated to the United States following the Saigon
evacuation in 1975 brought the Bahn Mi (and its distinctive
flavorings, like sweet red pork barbecued pork sprinkled with
slivers of lightly pickled cucumber and carrot seasoned with
jalapenos and cilantro) to us, paralleling the immigration
pattern: Hawaii, the West Coast, and eventually working its
way across the country to gain a foothold in the East.
bahn mi
in San Francisco
banh mi
Page 52
Page 53

The Italian beef is yet another sandwich distantly related
to Philadelphia’s hoagie. But unlike the hoagie’s layering
of cured pork meats and cheese, this is the bountiful prod-
uct of the city’s Union Stockyard. There’s beef so thinly sliced
it resembles a meat mille feuilles, topped by Giardinera,
another sort of “salad,” a relish of fermented shaved hot
peppers and celery that simply melts away when it hits the
hot beef, soaking its flavor all the way through into the
sandwich. It’s all served on Gonaella Bread: baked under
the direction of the same family since 1886, crisp-crusted
and substantial enough to stand up to dipping
the Italian beef
in Chicago
italian
beef
Page 54 Page 55

Maybe you have a friend who raves
about his or her hometown sandwich
and maybe, even after you eat one,
you don’t really get the big deal.
Keep this to yourself. Sandwich/City
criticism is not the privilege of an
outsider. The emotional pull of a
hometown sandwich has to do with
nostalgia and other intangibles like
roots” and neighborhood loyalty.
1
by
Francine Maroukian
eating a
regional sandwich:
shut it
how
to
behave
“
Page 56Page 56 Page 57
Sandwich Smash 2009

Perhaps your discerning palate
cries out for a sprinkling of locally
harvested arugula or a slather of
raw milk sheep cheese. Believe me,
no one –especially not the sandwich
maker –cares about your “improve-
ments.” Just order and move along.
3When a highly touted sandwich
joint looks like a hole-in-the-wall, it’s
probably operating in its original
location and deserves respect as a
community institution.
2{ respect }
commentcard
Sandwich Smash 2009 Eating A Regional Sandwich:
How To Behave
Page 58 Page 59

Stop and pay homage to the bread;
it is always an important part of a
sandwich’s mythology.
5Most famous sandwich places pack
in the tourists and can be super
crowded. As the line in front of you
shrinks, you can feel the number of
hungry people growing behind you.
Pressure builds. Don’t waste time by
dithering: listen and learn the proper
ordering code. Since the counter
people have heard it all, there might
even be an instructional sign.
4NEXT !
Sandwich Smash 2009 Eating A Regional Sandwich:
How To Behave
Page 61Page 60

interview
with a
brewmaster
sandwiches
beer with michelob Lengthy trains still rattle through the Anheuser-Busch facility in St. Louis,
Missouri delivering the raw ingredients that will be made into beer, while
trucks line the loading docks of the red brick buildings to drive away freshly
crated cases.
350,000 tourists a year also rattle through the compound, peering into the
exacting processes of turning water, rice, hops and barley malt into beer.
The tour is a comprehensive view at the inner workings of this mammoth
manufacturer. But nestled neatly behind the original brewhouse is an
often overlooked and completely autonomous brewing facility: Michelob
Brewing Company.
Described as a brewery-within-a-brewery, Michelob is part research lab
and part brewmasters’ workshop—so unassuming that the casual visitor
might not notice its inconspicuous entrance.
by
Brian Newman
Page 63
Sandwich Smash 2009 Interview With A Brewmaster
Page 62

While the Budweiser recipe is definitively codified, Michelob brewmasters
are relentless experimenters, tinkering endlessly with ingredients and flavor,
always pushing the bounds of how beer can taste. New beers are regularly
unveiled at festivals around the country and up to 50 unique beers could
be brewing at any given moment. The sense of creative opportunity is
evident in the way brewmaster Adam Goodson talks about Michelob
beer. “It all has to do with a passion, to really love what you’re doing,” he
says while gazing affectionately around the fermentation cellar. “This is
something I love to do. I love making beer. And I love experimenting and
having freedom.”
Beer education is important to Michelob; informing beer consumers on
issues ranging from flavor complexities and appropriate serving temper-
atures to proper pouring techniques and draught line maintenance is a
tradition as old as the brand, and one that remains purposefully intact.
So when brewmaster Goodson asks, “Are you ready to go down and
taste some beer,” there should be no doubt that it will be an enlightening
experience.
“Beer is one of the ultimate liquids to pair with food,” he says while pouring
a flight of Michelob brews. “No matter if it’s chocolate or cheese, or a
steak and potato, or sandwiches.” Continuing on, Goodson describes the
process of pairing beer with some of America’s most iconic sandwiches.
Starting with lighter sandwiches (like fish), Goodson is quick to choose
Shock Top. “You’ll notice right off the bat that you get a little bit of orange,
maybe a little lemon/lime citrus peel flavors in there,” he says as his nose
moves toward the glass. “We actually add those three citrus peels as well
as coriander to the beer, and it’s a mix of all four of those that you smell. I
really like the different spices in there, and the coriander really helps it pair
up well with certain types of food. I usually like pairing Shock Top or wheat
beers with fish, because fish is usually a little bit lighter in flavor. It’s going to
have real delicate flavors on your tongue.”
“I like Pale Ale paired with cured meat,” Goodson says as he moves to a
second beer. “Depending on what you’re curing the meat with, you don’t
want to have anything that is going to be too powerful, but you need to
have a little bit more body than you would for fish. With Michelob Pale Ale,
you’re going to get some citrus-y, spicy aromas, but also you do get a little
bit of bitterness in this beer, a nice bitterness.”
The next coupling Goodson wants to discuss is barbecue pork paired with
Michelob Dunkel Weisse. “The first thing you’re going to smell is going to
be the clove and banana notes,” says Goodson. “You’re going to get a
little bit of that on the taste as well, and that comes from the type of yeast.
It’s a darker beer, so you really get some roasted malt flavors in there as
well. It’s really complex… and that’s why I would pair it with pulled pork.
You want to have something that’s going to be able to stand up to a lot of
spice or sweetness.”
Goodson matches a classic Philadelphia cheesesteak with Michelob
AmberBock because, “it’s a darker bock beer, made with black and
caramel malts, so you’re going to get a little bit of roasted caramel, nutty
flavors in there, but it’s not going to be overly hopped, it’s not going to
be overly malty. It’s an incredibly drinkable darker beer. I pair this with
cheesesteak, because you’ve got those black and caramel malts in there
and you’ve got caramelized onions next to a huge pile of shaved meat.
And with the sweetness of the onions and the cheese, as well as the spicy
meat, you’ve got a beer that’s going to compliment all those flavors.”
Lastly, Goodson considers pairing sausage sandwiches with Michelob
Original Lager. “I think it depends on the sausage. Lamb sausage is
different than andouille sausage, or something a little bit spicier. It’s more
mellow [and] I think that Michelob Original Lager is going to have some
floral spicy notes, but it’s a lager so it’s pretty clean and drinkable. I think
you’ve got two items here that are highly palatable working together. It’s
going to cut through a little bit of the spicy meat flavors from the sausage.”
Satisfied with his descriptions, but already considering alternate menu
pairings, the brewmaster smiles broadly and instinctively reiterates what
could be a kind of manifesto in this brewery. “It’s just a place to start,
there’s no wrong answer. It’s really about experimenting and trying
new things.”
pairs well with
bbq pork
pairs well with
cheesesteak
pairs well
with fish
pairs well with
cured meat
pairs well with
sausage
sandwiches
Page 64 Page 65
Sandwich Smash 2009 Interview With A Brewmaster

capogiro
gelato
the only way to follow
a great sandwich
Philadelphia’s Capogiro makes authentic Italian gelato with a softer,
silkier texture than traditional hard-packed ice cream, and flavors
that one might be more accustomed to finding inside a restaurant than
an ice cream parlor. Only the freshest ingredients make their way into
Capogiro’s daily selection, mostly sourced from local farms and producers.
Flavors change with the seasons, as new crops reach their peak of
ripeness. The milk comes exclusively from hormone-free, grass-fed dairy
cows in rural Pennsylvania, ensuring that the gelato has a clean flavor,
allowing the fruits, herbs, nuts and other all-natural ingredients to shine.
Chef / owner Stephanie Reitano still makes each batch of gelato by
hand, even though Capogiro has expanded into two new storefronts
in recent months and their wholesale business continues to grow.
Capogiro serves many styles of hot and cold Italian sandwiches, as
well as gelato con brioche, an ice cream sandwich of sorts served on
a lightly sweetened, flaky brioche roll.
We asked Chef Reitano how to pair some popular styles of sandwiches
with gelato. For something lighter, like tuna, she recommends the
rich flavor of ciccola scuro (dark chocolate). With cured meats, the
bitter-sweet burnt sugar balances the salt in the charcuterie. For
something spicy and vinegary like barbecue, look for something fruity
and fresh like the seasonal berries or stone fruit flavors. For heartier
cooked meat sandwiches, go for something creamy like goat’s milk or
nocciola piemontese (hazelnut from Italy’s Piedmont region). And
for lamb, she chooses a classic pairing with fig.
Of course, there are no mistakes when it comes to eating Capogiro
gelato. With over 250 flavors rotating throughout the year, it is impossible
to resist trying a few new combinations and figuring out some creative
pairings on your own.
Page 66 Page 67
Sandwich Smash 2009 Capogiro

chip
Herr’s Ripples Potato Chips
sandwich
Italian hoagie
reason
The combination of flavors in this multi-
layered sandwich needs the simplicity
of the naked potato taste: clean,
crisp, classic. We prefer the ripple version
as a way to offset the smooth texture of
the sliced meat and cheese.
potato
chip
pairings
we layer our chips into
our sandwiches
like crisp, salty lettuce
Sandwich Smash 2009 Potato Chip Pairings
Page 68 Page 69

chip
Herr’s Potato Chips with Old Bay Seasoning
sandwich
Turkey, preferably the
day-after-Thanksgiving variety
reason
Because turkey can be a blank taste canvas,
it needs the spice punch. We tasted bay leaf,
allspice, cloves, celery salt, peppercorns,
mustard and paprika for sure—everything
but the crab. Bonus: the spices settle in the
channels created by the ripples.
chip
Herr’s Kettle Cooked Sour Cream
and Onion Potato Chips
sandwich
pastrami or corn beef
reason
Potatoes, sour cream, and a little onion
alongside deli meat makes a beautiful
balance with a dill pickle: it’s only natural.
We call it the “latke factor.”
chip
Herr’s Salt Vinegar Potato Chips
sandwich
Tuna
reason
We think of this as an Americanized fish and
chips, and the pronounced vinegar flavor
provides just the right tanginess to cut though
the tuna taste.
chip
Herr’s Kettle Cooked
Mesquite BBQ Potato Chips
sandwich
roast beef
reason
Until they make a horseradish chip,
we’ll stick with these to give some sweet
smokiness to our rare beef.
Carrying the official Old Bay
trademark, these chips are sprinkled
with the secret spice mix developed in
1939 by crab city Baltimore resident
and German immigrant Gustav Brunn.
In 2008, about 50 million ounces of
Old Bay were sold.
Kettle chips are a regional Penn-
sylvania development a throw back
to the earlier days of farm-style
potato chips. Instead of undergoing
a continuous fryer process that turns
out a steady stream of regular “flat”
chips, kettle chips are produced in a
smaller batch-by-batch method under
the watchful eye of “fry masters” who
employ different techniques and timing
to turn out a variety of crisp, curled
chips with a harder bite.
Page 70 Page 71
Potato Chip Pairings

recipes Peter McAndrews
Paesano’s Gustaio
per sandwich
Split 2 links lamb sausage open
horizontally and brown in a hot heavy skillet
over moderately high heat until cooked
through, about 3 to 5 minutes depending
upon thickness. (You want to brown them
without too much movement so the surface
of the open edges caramelize and get
crispy. We use our own house made lamb
sausage, but any good butcher should be
able to provide you with a substitute). Place
a flat bread over sausage in pan briefly
to soften (it will color slightly) and remove
pan from heat. Spread one side of the
bread with Gorgonzola cheese and top
with a layer sun dried cherry mustarda
(add 6 cups sun dried cherries to pot of
boiling/rolling water with 3 cups red wine
vinegar, 1 cup sugar and .5 cup coarse
salt. When liquid reduces by half, take pot
from heat and add 1 to 2 tablespoons
mustard oil and salt again to taste. Bring to
room temperature and store in refrigerator
for up to 2 weeks.). Add roasted fennel
(coarsely chopped, tossed with olive oil, salt
and sugar and roasted at high heat), oven
roasted tomatoes and baby arugula and
roll the bread into a wrap sandwich.
Rick Olivieri
Olivieri’s Chicken steak
per sandwich
Slit a seeded hoagie roll in half lengthwise
and spread one half with pesto (spreading
only one side will keep the pesto flavor from
overpowering the sandwich). In a skillet
over medium heat, heat 2 tbsp. canola
oil and cook 8-ounces of chicken “steak”
until fully cooked through, about 2 minutes
each side. (I use a commercially sliced
chicken, but regular chicken tenderloins
that have been pounded flat will work.)
Halve 2 or 3 slices of Cooper Sharp
American cheese (or substitute any sharp
American rather than one with a mellow
flavor) and place on top of the chicken
during the last minute of cooking so the
cheese melts a bit, creating a “dome” over
the meat. Using a large spatula, transfer
prepared chicken steak with cheese to
bottom half of split roll. Add 2 drained and
diced sun-dried tomatoes (these also have
concentrated flavor, so just a little adds a
lot of flavor.) Close with top half of roll and
press down lightly to seal.
Page 72 Page 73
Sandwich Smash 2009 Recipes

Michael Solomonov
Zahav’s Merguez in pita
with green tehina and harissa
for 4 sandwiches
for the Merguez kebabs
In a large stainless steel bowl, place
2 pounds ground lamb (80/20: a mix
80% meat and 20% fat), .5 teaspoons
dextrose (available at specialty food
stores), .25 cup of chopped cilantro
leaves, .25 teaspoon ground caraway
seed, 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed, 1
teaspoon ground coriander, 1 teaspoon
ground cumin, 5 tablespoons crushed
Aleppo peppers (a chili pepper from
northern Syria with medium heat and a
distinctive flavor, available in Middle Eastern
markets), 2 tablespoon minced garlic,
1.25 tablespoon kosher salt. Using your
hands, knead the mixture for approximately
5 minutes, or until the meat looks doughy
and emulsified. Cover and refrigerate for at
least 1 hour or until the mixture is thoroughly
chilled. Divide the mixture into eight equal
portions and roll each piece into a sausage-
like shape. Form each kebab around flat,
metal skewers. Refrigerate the kebabs on
the skewers for another hour. Cook the
kebabs over hot coals for 4 minutes per
side, or until light pink in the center.
for the Harissa
In a food processor, place 1 ounce
roasted red pepper (peeled and seeded),
2 ounces crushed Aleppo pepper, 2
garlic cloves (germ removed; this is the
small sprout in the center of the clove), 1
tablespoon coriander seed, 1 tablespoon
caraway seed, 1 tablespoon cumin seed,
2 ounces red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons
sweet smoked paprika, .25 cup cilantro
leaves (loosely packed), .5 cup vegetable
oil. Pulse until the mixture resembles a
coarse meal. Season to taste with kosher
salt.
for the green tehina
In a blender, place .5 cup sesame paste,
.5 cup cold water, 1 clove of minced
garlic, .25 cup fresh lemon juice, .5
cup Italian or flat leaf parsley leaves
(loosely packed), .25 cup roughly
chopped chives, .25 cup chopped dill, 2
tablespoons chopped mint. Process until
smooth. Season to taste with kosher salt and
ground black pepper.
to assemble
Place the four cooked skewers on four
individual pita breads. Drizzle with the green
tehina and harissa and roll sandwiches
like cigar. Slice on diagonal and serve
(preferably with a cold lager).
Mark Coates
Pimento cheese sandwich
per sandwich
Maybe you’ve never heard of it. But
Pimento cheese is a regional specialty,
something you can find in many a Southern
grocery store. It was especially popular
during the Depression because –like a lot of
down home foods—it shows that you can
do a lot with just a little. Take 2 cups finely
shredded sharp cheddar cheese and
mix thoroughly with a small jar (2oz) of
diced pimento (2 ounces), 3 tablespoons
dill relish, 1.5 cups mayonnaise, .25
teaspoon garlic powder, .25 teaspoon
onion powder. Spread on white toast. It’s
also good on top of a burger or a hot dog.
Arthur Cavaliere
Parc’s Baguette Provencal
per sandwich
Split a crusty baguette in half lengthwise
and lightly coat each side with ripe
Camembert (This cheese is crumbly and
soft at the beginning of its ripening period
but gets creamier over time. A wedge
that is mature to the heart will be creamy
enough to spread). On bottom half of
the baguette, layer thinly sliced Petit
Jesuit (a coarse ground salami, rather
like a French- style sopressata, available
http://www.salumeriabiellese.com). Top
with about 8 Nicoise olives (pitted and
roughly chopped) and cornichon. Sprinkle
with Herbs d’ Provence (a mixture of
dried herbs from the region of Provence,
including lavender, fennel and thyme), and
a drizzle of mustard vinaigrette (In medium
bowl, combine .5 cup Dijon mustard, .5
cup white wine vinegar, pinch of sugar.
Slowly whisk in 1 cup grapeseed oil, .5 cup
extra virgin olive oil, whisking constantly to
emulsify. Season to taste with salt and white
pepper). Close with top half of roll and press
down lightly to seal.
Page 74
Sandwich Smash 2009 Recipes

thanks
sponsors
Unbreaded
Esquire
Michelob Brewing Company
Park Hyatt Philadelphia at The Bellevue
Herr’s
Stroehmann Baking Company
ShopRite Partners In Caring
Philip Gabriel Photography
Capogiro
Metropolitan Bakery
Provenance Old Soul
Architectural Salvage
Visual Resouces
Moda Botanica
Philabundance
Thank you to our corporate partners,
Stroehmann Baking Company and
ShopRite Partners In Caring, for their
generous donations to our peanut
butter jelly food drive.
e-book credits
editorial
Jeff Vogel
jeff@unbreaded.com
Ben Kessler
ben@unbreaded.com
Francine Maroukian
Brian Newman
design
wmwmwm.com
art direction, design: William Morrisey
design: Daniel Dickson
photography
All photography by Philip Gabriel Photog-
raphy, except where noted
pp 32 - 55
the United States of Sandwiches
flickr creative commons: T-Bet / Tarah,
Kthread, Unbreaded, Gabriel Fredericks,
Dommichu, Southernbredgirl, Buck82, e.t.,
Marshall Astor, Florian, Anjuli Ayers, Avlxyz
p 66
Unbreaded
Sandwich Smash 2009 sponsors credits
Page 76

end
this e-book commemorates
Sandwich Smash 2009
October 4th 2009, 5-8pm
Park Hyatt Philadelphia at The Bellevue
The event showcased chefs from five
of Philadelphia’s top restaurants,
who made their signature sandwiches
in front of a live audience.
Each guest was served a five-course
meal of the featured sandwiches, plus
beverages from Michelob Brewing Co.,
snack foods from Herr’s, and dessert
from Capogiro.
Participants
Chef Michael Solomonov, Zahav
Chef Peter McAndrews, Paesano’s
Chef Arthur Cavaliere, Parc
Rick Olivieri, Rick’s Steaks
Mark Coates, Bebe’s Barbecue
For more info go to sandwichsmash.com
Proceeds benefit Philabundance.

Sandwich Smash e-Book

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