Thread Education

1. A
B C’s Of Thread Application

4. The Process
Beginning with the selection of the finest grades of
Cotton, Synthetic Staple Fibres and Filaments the Raw
Material should Processed using Modern Machinery and
Technology.
Manufacturing process starts with Soft Winding and
moves through Dyeing, Winding to finish up with
Packing.
During all these stages In-Plant Laboratories should
monitor every step of the Process to ensure the highest
levels of Quality Standards and most of all Customer
Satisfaction.

5. • NATURUB IS WORK WITH MANY
INTERNATIONAL LABELS.
• M & S, STRUCTURE, LIZ
CLAIRBORNE, VICTORIA
SECRET, TOMMY HILFIGER,
NEXT, GAP, TESCO, HELLY
HANSEN, DILLARDS,
DEBANHAMS , TO NAME A FEW.

6. Diversified Product Range
• PERMA SPUN - 100% STAPLE SPUN
POLYESTER THREAD.
• PERMA CORE - CORE SPUN
POLYESTER THREAD.
• WILDCAT - BULK (STRETCH)
POLYESTER THREAD.
• EMBROIDERY - 100% TRILOBAL
POLYESTER THREAD.
• ANECOT - 100% COTTON THREAD
FOR GARMENT DYEING.

7. Shade Advisory Service
• Obtaining Shade Approvals
From buying Houses.
• Dye To Match to Fabric
Swatches.
• Sample Cops & Cones on
Buyers Requirement.

8. ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY
• WE USE TESTED AND
ACCEPTED ECO-FRIENDLY
DYES.
• STATE OF THE ART EFFLUENT
TREATMENT PLANT.
• PURIFICATION AND
MAINTENANCE MONITORED BY
THE ENVIRONMENTAL
AUTHORITIES.
• METAL FREE PACKING
MATERIAL.

9. Implement Total Quality
Management throughout
our Company ....
and it definitely is making a
difference in the Quality of our
Products and Services!
Committed
to
Quality

10. Rather than just inspecting the final
product .... we should randomly check Key
Process Characteristics that will
determine the final product quality.
Total Quality Management
There
Is
A
Difference
Commitment to
Customer Requirements
Continuous Process Improvement
Total Employee Involvement
Measurement & Feedback

11. Impact on our Customers
• Fewer Sewing Interruptions
• More Consistent Performance!
• Lower overall Thread Cost!

12. Markets
 Jeanswear
 Automotive Products
 Home Furnishings
 Womenswear
 Menswear
 Underwear
 Intimate Apparel
 Workwear & Uniforms
 Activewear
 Outerwear
 Childrenswear
 Outdoor/Canvas Products
Sewn Products
 Mattress & Bedding
 Upholstered Furniture
 Hospital Products
 Swimwear
 Footwear
 Gloves
 Leather Goods
 Cap & Hats
 Selvedge
 Men’s Shirts
 Sporting Goods
 Tea Bags

13. Thread only makes up a small percent
of the COST of the garment ....
but shares 50% of the responsibility
for the seam!

14. Seam Appearance & Seam Durability
 Stitch Appearance
 Color Fastness (Fading or Transfer of color)
 Seam Puckering / Needle Cutting
 Restitched seams due to Thread Breakage,
Skipped Stitches or Cut Stitches
 Seam Elasticity
 Seam Failures
Thread Does Impact on Seam Quality !

15. Selecting the
Right
Thread
What Fiber Type?
What Thread Construction?
What Thread Size?

16. What Fiber Type?
THREAD ....

17. Fiber Types
• Cotton
• Rayon
• Lyocel
• Polyester
• Nylon
Threads made from similar fiber types
have …. Similar physical characteristics.
Cellulose
Synthetic

18. Cellulosic: General Application:
Cotton Garment dye programs
Regenerated Cellulosic:
Rayon Embroidery threads
Fiber Origin
Characteristics:
Lower tenacity (2.5 - 3.5gpd)
Lower elongation (3 to 5% at break)
Good heat resistance (does not melt)
Not as durable as Polyester & nylon
Natural Fibers used for Threads

19. Characteristics:
•High tenacity (5 to 8.5gpd)
•High elongation (15 to 20% at break)
•Can be affected by heat (melts at 252° C)
•Excellent durability to chemicals & abrasion
Synthetic:
Polyester - Most common fiber type used for
Apparel
- Non-apparel Application - outdoor
products
Nylon - Non-apparel Applications (Furniture,
Luggage, Shoes & Boots, etc.)
Man-Made Fibers / Synthetics

20. Fiber Forms
Continuous
Filament (Perns)
Spinneret
Spinneret
(hundreds of
filaments)
Crimper
Cutter
Bales of
Polyester Staple

21. Fiber Types & Forms
Fibrous Surface
Staple is Spun into yarn
• Softer Hand
• Refracts light - low sheen
• Superior Frictional Characteristics
• Lower Cost
Continuous Filament is Twisted
• Uniformity
• High tenacity

22. What Thread Construction ?
THREAD ....

23. Thread Constructions
• Spun
• Monofilament
• Multifilament
• Textured
• Corespun
Made from Staple & Continuous Filaments
Made from Continuous Filaments
Made from Staple - they have a fibrous
surface

24. Most Common Thread
Constructions Used by
Apparel Mfgs. Today
• Spun Polyester
• Textured (Stretch) Polyester
• Core Spun
– Cotton Wrapped
– Polyester Wrapped

25. Spun threads
These are made from cotton or polyester staple fibers which are
spun into singles yarns and then two or more of these yarns are
plied to make a sewing thread. Applications include everything
from women’s intimate apparel to heavy leather gloves. Brands:
: Perma Spun
.
Disadvantages
• Lower tenacity
• Not as uniform
• Will Not sew as well on some
tough sewing applications
Benefits
• Soft hand
• Low sheen
• Good lubricity characteristics
• Lower Price

26. Textured (Stretch) Threads
These are made from continuous filaments of polyester or nylon which
have been stretched, textured and then heat set to insure proper bulk
retention. Textured threads are ideal for overedge, chainstitch, and
coverstitch operations on knit garments. Also recommended for stretch
fabrics like foundation garments and intimate apparel.
Disadvantages
• Poor ply security - not
recommended for
lockstitch machines
Benefits:
•High bulk for excellent seam coverage
•Very good seam elasticity
•Good chemical resistance & color fastness
•Less expensive

27. Tenacity (strength per size)
Spun Polyester
Poly Wrapped Core
Using a smaller thread size can help:
•Minimize seam puckering

28. Seam Puckering - 3 Major Causes
 Yarn Displacement (Structural Jamming)
 Tension Puckering (Excessive Thread Tension)
 Feed Puckering (Uneven ply feeding)

29. ELONGATION
The more tension applied to the thread …
the more the thread will stretch!

30. When the
needle begins to
rise, the thread
begins to
Recover
Causing
Poor Loop
Formation
What happens when the thread is Sewn
with excessive tension?
Thread is
STRETCHED
as the needle
reaches the
bottom of
its travel

31. Three things can happen and
two of them are BAD!
Missed Loop
Skipped
Stitch

32. 301 Lockstitch
Machine
6000 spm = 100 stitches per second

33. Balanced Stitch
Needle & Bobbin threads meet in
Center of Seam

34. Unbalanced Stitch
Loops on bottom side of seam
Needle & Bobbin threads don’t
meet in Center of Seam

35. Proper way to Balance a 301
Lockstitch Formation
Check Bobbin Case Thread Tension
Check with Bobbin Case resting on a flat
surface

36. Proper way to Balance a 301
Lockstitch Formation
Check Bobbin Thread pulled up through
Needle Plate needle hole
Check to see if the tension discs are being
held open by something
Adjust Top Needle Thread Tension

37. Make sure thread
stand eyelet is
centered over the
center of the
cone so it pulls
off uniformly
Lockstitch Machine
Thread Handling
System

38. Ply Security Ranking
Spun Polyester Good
Textured (Stretched) Fair *
* Textured threads NOT recommended for Lockstitch machines - use
on Overedge, Chainstitch & Coverstitch machines.
APPAREL APPLICATIONS
Thread Type Ply Security Ranking

39. Automatic Multi-directional Sewing
Equipment
Many thread breaks on difficult sewing
operations are due to a loss of Ply Security!

40. What Thread Size?
THREAD ....

41. Generally Larger thread sizes ….
…. are stronger and used on heavier fabrics.
…. provide greater seam strength & seam durability
…. are more visible for contrast stitching.
…. are more expensive.
…. can cause more seam puckering
50
75
110
120
180
Tkt
Sizes
Yarn
Sizes
20/2
40/3
40/2
60/3
60/2
Thread Sizes
Tex
Sizes
T60
T45
T30
T30
T18

42. Applications & Sizes:
• Light Weight T-18, T-21, T-24, T-27 Shirts, Blouses
Tkt 180, 120.
• Medium Wt. T-30, T-35, T-40, T-45 Pants, Jackets
Tkt 120, 100, 75
• Heavy Wt. T-60, T-70, …. T-120 Denim Jeans
Tkt 50, 30, 20

43. 45° Method of Checking Needle Size /
Thread Size Relationship

44. Seam Engineering
THREAD... What you should know?

45. Rules for Seam Strength
301 Lockstitch - Use same size needle
thread as bobbin thread.

46. Factors that Effect
Seam Strength
• Fabric type & weight
• Thread type & size
• Stitch & Seam Construction
• Stitches per Inch
• Stitch Balance
.

47. Estimating Seam Strength
301 Lockstitch:
S.P.I. X S.E.B. X 1.5 = Seam Strength
10 X 4.0 lbs X 1.5 = 60 lbs.
* Seams sewn with woven fabrics.
401 Chainstitch:
S.P.I. X S.E.B. X 1.7 = Seam Strength
10 X 4.0 lbs X 1.7 = 68 lbs.
SPI –Stitches Per Inch SEB – Single End Breaking

48. do you think they will all have the
same Seam Strength?
Even though all these threads may
look the same in the SEAM .…

49. Other Factors to
Consider
• Chemical Resistance
– Acids & Alkalis
– Bleaches
– Enzymes
• Abrasion Resistance
• Sunlight Degradation (UV Resistance)
• Color Fastness

50. Cost of Repairs that should be considered
 Seconds due to poor quality
 More equipment & operators required or
Longer In-process time
 Higher overhead costs
• floor space, power, etc.
 Penalties due to Shipment Delays
 Charge-backs from Retailer
What is the total cost of repairs ?

51. Thread only makes up a small percent
of the COST of the garment ....
but shares 50% of the responsibility
for the seam!

52. Does thread have an
impact on your Costs??

53. I paid $$$ for this Brand-name
Shirt and after three
launderings, the seams are
falling apart!
What happens when you have
seam failures?
 Rejections of work due to poor quality
 Increased hassle of dealing with problems
 Missed Shipping Dates
 Lost Sales
 Lost Customers

54. Don’t risk your
Company
Reputation and
Brand Integrity
by Gambling on
Sewability &
Seam
Integrity!

55. THANK YOU !!!