2. What we will cover…
• How much water do plants need?
• How does water move in your soil?
• Measuring water application
• Types of irrigation systems
3. Why do plants need water?
• Plants use light +
CO2 and water to
make sugar.
• Sugars are used by
the plant for
growth or stored.
4. Why do plants need water?
• Most vegetables
are 80 to 95%
water
• Yield and quality
suffer from lack of
water
5. What affects water loss from
plants?
•Sunlight
•Temperature
•Humidity
•Wind
6. Large leaves have more pores
What our eyes see What our eyes can‟t see
8. Critical water periods for vegetables
• Beans – high water demand; need most critical
during flowering and pod sizing
• Corn – high water demand; peak demand during
tasseling, silking and ear formation
• Leafy vegetables – water most critical during
head development
• Tomato – Water needs increase with plant
growth; uniform watering is critical during fruit
development
9. Critical water periods for fruits
• Apples, pears, peaches, plums, cherries – during
flower formation, fruit set and final fruit swell
• Raspberries and blackberries – during bloom
and during sizing of fruits
• Strawberries – at planting, during runner
formation and during flower bud development
10. There are two aspects to watering
• How much to apply
at one time…
• How often to apply
it.
11. How to water your plants
• Applying too much
water at one time
leaches nutrients from
the soil.
• Applying water too
often suffocates roots.
Flooding plants deprives roots of oxygen
12. How much do I water?
• Sandy soils need water
more frequently.
• Water more frequently in
hot weather.
• New seedlings or
transplants need more
frequent watering.
• Large, deep-rooted plants
need deeper watering.
13. How much water to provide…
• 1 to 2 inches per
week during hot
weather
• Depends on:
▫ air temperature
▫ size of plant
▫ Stage of
development
14. Measuring sprinkler irrigation amount
Catch-can test:
• Scatter soup cans around the garden
• Turn on irrigation
• Measure amount of water in cans after 15 minutes
of irrigation
15. Measuring your irrigation amount
• Say you measure ¼
inch after 15 minutes
• Assume garden needs
1.5 inches water per
week
• You might water for
15 minutes 6 times
per week, or for 30
minutes 3 times per
week
16. How often to provide water
• Rate of evaporation
• Rate of movement in
soil
• Affected by soil
texture
18. Affect of soil texture on water-holding
Sandy soil Clay soil
• Each foot of soil
depth holds about ¾
inch of available
water
• Each foot of soil
depth holds about 2
to 2-1/2 inches
available water
Clay soils have a greater water-holding capacity than sandy soils.
20. Get your hands in the soil!
• Dig down 2 to 4
inches in the soil
• Soil near field
capacity will feel
moist but not wet
• Plants may
experience drought
when the soil feels dry
and crumbly
21. Indicator plants
• Squash Cucurbita
hybrids
• Tomato Lycopersicon
hybrids
• Wilting leaves and/or
stems
• (May also happen in
late afternoon sun –
they will recover)
22. What’s wrong with my plant?
Diagnostic Chart
CAUSE Over
watering
Under
watering
Nutrient
deficiency
SOIL
CONDITION
Wet Dry Wet or dry
LEAF
CONDITION
Yellow,
falling
off
Wilted,
curled,
tip burn
Yellow, but
remains on
plant
23. Water problems
• Blossom end rot occurs on
blossom end of fruits
• Caused by calcium not getting
up to fruits
• The problem is inconsistent
watering
• Apply mulch to hold water in
the soil
• Do NOT apply lime or gypsum. Water fluctuations can also cause
fruit cracking.
Blossom end rot
25. Watering methods
Hand watering
• Time consuming
• Generally only wets
upper layer of soil
• Are you providing
consistent amounts to
each plant?
26. Watering methods
Soaker hose
• Easy
• Inexpensive
• Saves water
• Hoses must be
replaced often
• Best in a flat area
with rows not longer
than 25 feet
30. Drip Emitters
• External versus internal
emitters
• Should be pressure-
compensating
• Deliver water at
0.5- 2.0 gph
External emitters
Internal emitters
31. Microspray emitters
• Available from 3 to 30 gph
• Larger water droplet than
sprinkler emitters
• More efficient than
conventional sprinklers
• Good for low crops or
beneath tall crops
32. Drip Irrigation Terms
• Main line
• Sub-main line
• ½-inch supply line
• ¼-inch feeder line
• Pressure regulator
• Filter
• Backflow preventer
(anti-syphon)
• Control valve(s)
43. External emitter staked on a riser
Attach an external
emitter to the end
of ¼-inch feeder
line and stake with
a riser to mist
plants.
44. Ends must be capped or clamped to
maintain water pressure.
Hose end clampHose end cap
45. Some EASY math…
The maximum
pressure handled by a
drip irrigation system
is 25-40 psi (pounds
per square inch).
If in doubt, install a
pressure regulator:
• The total gph flowing
through emitters
should not exceed
75% the total flow
rate of the drip
tubing:
▫ Number of emitters ×
GPH per emitter = total
GPH through emitters
▫ Example: 300 1-GPH
emitters can be
supported by system
with a 400 GPH flow
rate.
46. To measure flow rate for drip:
• Get a 5-gal. bucket
and a stop watch.
• Put bucket under the
faucet.
• Turn on faucet and
start timer.
• Calculate how long it
takes to fill the
bucket.
• 5 gal / (45) seconds ×
3600 sec/hr = (400)
GPH flow rate.
48. Plastic mulch
• Black polyethylene
plastic film for dry
climates with cool
springs
• Drip irrigation laid
under the plastic
• Controls weeds
• Warms the soil for an
earlier crop
49. Subsurface drip systems
• Uses buried drip tubing – 6
to 24 inches deep
• Saves water and improves
yields
• Higher initial investment
• Good for hot and windy
areas
• Efficiency depends on
“wickability” of soil
• Not good for quick-draining
sandy or gravelly soils
• (Great!) potential for rodent
damage
50. Gravity drip bucket systems
• Buckets need to be
elevated at least 3
feet from the ground
• Use with drip
irrigation tape
• Fill buckets once
daily
• Use where water
availability is
limited
52. Watering from a well system
• Backflow protection
• Determine steady state
flow rate and pressure.
• Insert a delay between
stations that allows the
well to recharge.
53. Septic systems: can I plant on or near
my leach field?
• No! Do not site your vegetable
garden (including fruit trees)
over the leach field.
• Roots may damage the leach
field.
• Crops may be contaminated with
bacteria or viruses.
• Root crops (carrots, potatoes)
may be directly exposed to
human pathogens.
• Fruits and vegetables should be
planted at least 10 feet from a
septic system or leach field to
avoid bacterial contamination.
54. Artichokes
• Grow from transplants or
seed (transplant 3-4
weeks before FF date).
• Requires cool temps to
initiate a flower stalk.
• Drip irrigation is best;
keep soil moist; roots are
shallow.
Artichokes are flower buds.
„Green Globe‟ heirloom
55. Beans and peas
• Water:
▫ Keep soils moist but
not wet.
▫ Water most critical
during flower and
pod development.
▫ Dry beans: reduce
water as seeds begin
to mature
„Blue Lake‟ – pole type
Lack of flower development or
“stringy” beans indicate water or
heat stress.
56. Beets
• Grow from seed.
• Water regularly
using drip irrigation
to keep soil moist.
• Moisture fluctuations
cause root cracking.
• Weed control is
essential!
„Detroit Dark Red‟
Heat and water stress may
cause woody beets.
57. Carrots
Water
▫ Use drip irrigation
if possible.
▫ Avoid over-
watering to prevent
hairy roots and
forking.
„Imperator‟
Uneven watering causes root cracking.
58. Broccoli
• Best grown as
transplants.
• Water:
▫ Deeply and
infrequently to
encourage deep roots.
▫ Use mulch to conserve
water and control
weeds.
„Calabrese‟ heirloom
“Buttoning” (premature flower buds)
soon after transplant can be caused
by water stress.
59. Brussels sprouts
• Grow from seed
started indoors.
• Water:
▫ Deeply and
infrequently to
encourage deep
roots.
▫ Use drip to provide
even moisture. Use
mulch.
„Long Island Improved‟
Uneven watering promotes
splitting, bitter taste and tip
burn.
60. Cabbage/brussels sprout tip burn
• Calcium not transported
to rapidly expanding
tissues.
• Common in sandy soils.
• Caused by any condition
that favors rapid growth.
• Maintain even moisture
levels. Tip burn on brussels sprout
61. Leeks
• Water:
▫ Roots are shallow;
provide water
regularly.
„American Flag‟
Weed control is especially
important during the first 2
months of growth.
62. Cucumbers
• Love sandy soils and
lots of room!
• Water deeply by drip
or basins
• Over- and under-
watering causes:
▫ Bitter fruits
▫ Pointed ends
▫ Misshapen
„Marketmore‟
Cucumber plants are vining and benefit from a trellis.
63. Potato
• Grown from “seed
pieces”
• Soils must be 50 F
• “Hill” soil around
plants as they grow to
prevent tuber
“greening.”
• Water:
▫ Deep, regular watering
with drip irrigation.
▫ Reduce water as leaves
yellow
Irregular soil moisture
causes abnormal tuber
growth.
Many potato varieties
will grow in northern
Nevada.
Photosynthesis is one of the hallmark functions of a plant, and is a key difference between plants and animals (animals can’t photosynthesize, of course). Think about it this way: humans and animals can move around their environment to attain food and water and to escape uncomfortable or unsafe conditions. Plants can’t – they’re rooted in place and so must be able to meet all their needs using the tools they have. Photosynthesis occurs mainly in the leaves of plants, although it can occur in any part of the plant that is green. Photosynthesis happens in the chloroplasts where the green pigment, chlorophyll, absorbs light. Plants use carbon dioxide taken up from the atmosphere through leaf stomata, water taken up through the roots, and sunlight to produce sugars (also known as carbohydrates). Plants use the carbohydrates from photosynthesis to grow. Greenhouse growers can increase the rate of photosynthesis of horticultural plants by enriching the greenhouse environment with carbon dioxide. This cause plants to grow faster. We’ll take more about this later in the semester when we cover greenhouse production.
Most vegetables don’t like fluctuations in water availability
mainline, valve, sub-main, backflow preventer, pressure regulator, filter, tubing adapters and fittings, drip tubing, emitters, and end caps.
The mainline is the pipe that runs from the water source – typically your outdoor faucet - to the valve; and the sub-main runs from the valve to the point where the drip tubing is connected. Generally, sub-mains are used only when there are multiple lines of drip tubing and zones feeding off of the same mainline water source. The combined length of the mainline and sub-main should not exceed 400 feet.The valve controls water flow into the system and can be set for either automatic or manual control. Backflow preventers are necessary to ensure that irrigation water does not flow back into the pipes and contaminate your main water source. Pressure regulators are only necessary if your water pressure is over 40 pounds per square inch. If you do not know your water pressure it is a good idea to install one just in case. Filters keep dissolved substances in your water from clogging the emitters over time. Install filters either at the emitters or at the water source to protect both the valve and pressure regulator in addition to the emitters. It is best if the filter has at least a 150 mesh screen or higher. Tubing adapters and fittings are used to attach the drip tubing to the rest of the system. It is important that these are the right size for the tubing to prevent them from blowing apart under pressure.
Because small amounts of water are applied slowly, drip irrigation is designed to run daily unless it rains. How long to run the drip irrigation system will depend on how much water your plants require per day and the flow rate of your emitters. Water is applied either once or twice a day. Early morning is the best time to water because there will be less evaporation. Watering in the evening increases the plant’s susceptibility to disease.