Reading Comprehension January 2018 - Travel

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Maseke Game Reserve is a destination waiting to be explored.
The reserve offers its visitors an exclusive safari experience in a landscape that can best be described as safari Nirvana.
A variety of habitats and geological wonders means an array of wildlife dwell in harmony in this pristine reserve.
WILDERNESS TRAILS

CL COMPANION
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INTO AN ADVENTURE
The desert extends in its unending expanse and before your very eyes you can see a small herd of animals
passing by in the distance. These are oryx antelopes that are now slowly moving on in the evening sun after
resting all day long in the shade of the acacia trees. The CL Companion binoculars from SWAROVSKI OPTIK,
always ready to hand, let you take in every amazing detail of these graceful animals, from
the markings on their fur to their striking horns. Their excellent optics and compact design
make these binoculars the perfect companion for observing such unique, unforgettable
sights. With SWAROVSKI OPTIK the world belongs to those who can see beauty.
SEE THE UNSEEN
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BY APPOINTMENT TO
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BIILL ADAMS
DIRECTOR OF SAFARI CONSULTANTS
WWW.ZAMBIATOURISM.CO.UK | @ZAMBIATOURISMUK

January-March 2018 | Travel Africa4
84
EYE ON YOU: Enigmatic and obscure, the shoebill
occurs in only a handful of remote, difficult to reach
places, such as the Bangweulu Wetlands in Zambia
MIKEDEXTER
6 What’s online now
8 Editor’s letter
10 Contributors
168 Parting shot
INDABA
Meet your fellow readers
13 First impression
14 Perspective
17 Favourite place
18 Characters
20 Numbers game
23 Graham Boynton
24 Letter from Africa
26 Art
28 Food & drink
31 Technology
32 Journal
36 Book Club
CONSERVATION
Looking after nature
129 Tusk Conservation
Awards winners
130 AWF projects
132 Wildfile: whales
and dolphins
136 The rhino horn trade
SAFARI
How to plan your trip
151 Peace of Africa
152 Accommodation news
154 Travel news
156 Ask the trade
158 Essential guide to
Kenya’s lakes
164 Health and safety
168 Parting shot
HOUSEKEEPING
110 Subscribe
166 Safari Planner
advertiser index:
your quick way to find
reliable companies to
travel with
DEPARTMENTS

ISSUE 81, JANUARY-MARCH 2018
WHAT’S INSIDE
5Travel Africa | January-March 2018
40 PORTFOLIO
Caught on camera From bats to dabchicks,
here is our pick of the most captivating
winning shots from Nature’s Best
Photography Africa Awards 2017
52 SOUTH AFRICA
Keeping track of cheetah Nick Dall sets out
on foot in Mountain Zebra National Park to
search for the world’s fastest feline, and learn
about its behaviour and interaction with its
distant cousin, the lion
62 BOTSWANA
Travelling on a budget On the hunt for a
more affordable option in this notoriously
expensive wildlife destination, Sarah Gilbert
joins a group mobile camping safari
70 NAMIBIA
48 hours in Windhoek Resident Annabelle
Venter gets under the skin of the Namibian
capital, exploring its architecture, gardens,
museums, restaurants, cafés, bars and shops
78 MALAWI
10 top spots for birders For a small country,
Malawi harbours some impressive avian riches.
Dominic Couzens reveals the best places to go
84 ZAMBIA
A wildlife lover’s guide From bat swarms and
birding bonanzas to leopard encounters and
little-known migrations, William Gray presents
Zambia’s most spine-tingling experiences
96 ZIMBABWE
Why you should visit Zimbabwe now Our
publisher urges readers to visit his homeland
sooner rather than later in the wake of the
political changes there
108 ADVENTURE
Walking the Zambezi Chaz Powell’s ambition
was to walk the length of the Zambezi in
a single trip. He tells Olivia Rook all about it
111 ACCOMMODATION
Unusual places to stay Lodges have their
own appeal — but they’re not the only option.
Here is our list of some of Africa’s most
unconventional boltholes
124 UNEXPLORED AFRICA
Sweet Sierra Leone Given its history, this West
African country might not be on everybody’s
bucket list. But when Sue Watt travels there,
she discovers potential and optimism
138 UGANDA
Back to Ikland Mark Eveleigh treks into the
highland home of the mysterious Ik tribe
and discovers the truth about the community
that was once portrayed as the world’s
nastiest people
146 ETHIOPIA
Exploding the myth Trevor Jenner reveals
why we should reconsider our misconceptions
about this land of astonishing natural beauty,
ethnic diversity and cultural riches
CONTENTSFEATURES
Follow us: @TravelAfricamag
Like us: facebook.com/TA.magazines
138 40 146
WELCOMEETHIOPIATOURS
ON THE APP
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on your iPad, iPhone,
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ALL THIS AND MORE Tosharestoriesandgainaccesstounseenimages,updatesandfunfacts,join Travel Africa‘sonlinecommunity
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EXPLORE THE
URBAN JUNGLE
Mike Brogden explains
how to make the most of
the ‘urban’ aspect of the
tourism market, encouraging
visitors to spend time
meeting the local people and
understanding their culture,
as well as going on safari.
THE GATES
ARE OPEN
After the resignation of
Robert Mugabe, there is no
better time to visit Zimbabwe.
E-magazine Travel Zimbabwe
has comprehensive coverage
of the country, with plenty of
ideas and advice for your trip.
Visit ta-emags.com.
HIDDEN ISLANDSAfrica is full of undiscovered treasures. For seven months,
Tracy Grant lived in the majestic Cape Verde, an archipelago
with a rich history, to dig up its salty secrets.
We are constantly inundated with amazing
stories that we simply can’t fit into a quarterly
print magazine. So last year we launched
Travel Africa Extra, a monthly online mini-
magazine packed with exciting articles, image
galleries, interviews, blogs and opinion
columns. Subscribe to our mailing list on
travelafricamag.com to receive Travel
Africa Extra in your inbox at the
end of every month.
STEREOTYPE SMASHING
We list 10 facts about hyenas that prove they
are more complex than cackling sidekicks
and are deft problem solvers, finding
solutions to life in the wild or when
coming face-to-face
with humans.
THE SOUNDS OF AFRICA
A first-time journey to Africa can cause
sensory overload. We discuss how to listen
to the wilderness by allowing the sounds of
the animal calls and the rain wash over you.
Visit travelafricamag.com.

8 January-March 2018 | Travel Africa
“It is one world. And it’s in our care. For the first time in the history of humanity, for the
first time in 500 million years, one species has the future in the palm of its hands. I just
hope he realises that that is the case.” These are the cautionary words of my icon, Sir
David Attenborough, whose spectacular and thought-provoking documentary, Blue
Planet II, had many of us transfixed on Sunday evenings towards the end of 2017.
The series intrigued me because most conservation discussions seem to focus
on the big terranean mammals, such as lion, leopard, rhino and elephant; yet
the oceans are crucial to our very existence and survival. It made me ponder the
mysterious underwater universe, the impact we humans are having on it and the
importance of protecting it.
Just looking around the supermarket makes you realise the ludicrous amount
of plastic and polystyrene we use in our everyday lives. And despite our efforts to
recycle efficiently, a shocking amount ultimately ends up polluting our seas. And,
as Attenborough says, “[This] has catastrophic effects.”
One distressing example of the tragedies we are continually causing came in the
final episode, when viewers were shown the contents of a baby albatross’s stomach —
a poignant heap of rubbish. More than eight million tonnes of plastic, reportedly, reach
the deep blue every year; and it is lethal to birds, fish and mammals who gobble it up
believing it to be edible. It is choking our oceans and we urgently need to change our
ways before it’s too late.
With this in mind, in this edition we have included a story on marine life: gain an
insight into the behaviour and adaptations of whales and dolphins on page 132. And
of course, there’s plenty more to pique your interest — from a wildlife lover’s guide to
Zambia (page 84) to tracking cheetah in South Africa (page 52). Moreover, following the
leadership change in Zimbabwe, we consider why you should visit in 2018.
It’s a new year and time for a fresh start. So read on and then book your next trip to
this amazing continent — a brilliant way
to play your part in the protection of our
precious planet. As Attenborough said,
“Every single one of us has a responsibility
for our [Earth].” Happy New Year!
ISSUE 81, JANUARY-MARCH 2018
KARIBU
Travel Africa is published quarterly by:
Gecko Publishing Ltd
13 Kelly’s Road, Wheatley, Oxford OX33 1NT,
United Kingdom
(ISSN 2046-133X)
travelafricamag.com
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Publisher Craig Rix
Managing director Iain Wallace
Editor Laura Griffith-Jones
Designers Pascal Don, Cathy Challinor
Customer services Sherry Rix
Accounts Amanda Gaydon
CONTRIBUTORS
Henry Bevan, Graham Boynton, Philip Briggs,
Stuart Butler, Dominic Couzens, Jack Andrew Cribb,
Nick Dall, Mark Eveleigh, Will Gray, Sarah Gilbert, Brian
Jackman, Trevor Jenner, Olivia Rook, Richard Trillo,
Mike Unwin, Annabelle Venter, Sue Watt, Ben West
CONTACT US
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zinio.com. See page 95 for details.
PRICES
Any prices mentioned are accurate at the time of
going to press.
© 2018 Gecko Publishing Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any
form or stored without the prior permission of the publisher. While every effort is
made to ensure that the content of Travel Africa is accurate, the publisher cannot
accept any responsibility whatsoever for errors that may appear.
ON THE COVER
A cheetah cub, photographed by Michael Poliza
FOOTNOTE Recognising the vulnerability of the cheetah and the importance of
protecting it, a cheetah’s footprint appears at the end of every feature.
BUDGETBOTSWANA | THEIKFACTOR | WHY YOUSHOULD VISIT ZIMBABWENOW
Wildlife lover’s guide to Zambia | Secret Sierra Leone | Unusual places to stay
Kenya’s great lakes | Birding in Malawi | 48 hours in Windhoek
CHEETAHS
TRACKING
PLUS
Taking responsibility
LAURA GRIFFITH-JONES
EDITOR
WILLBIRTLES

3
OUR CONTRIBUTORS SHARE TALES FROM THEIR TRAVELS
STORYTELLERS
1 MarkEveleigh
Uganda,page 138
“I first fell in love with beautiful Kidepo Valley
National Park during a month-long safari,
mapping Uganda’s national parks as a
volunteer. The 13-hour drive to the northern
frontier reminded me that travel here is always
an adventure; this wild reserve is worth every
minute of the trip.”
Mark has written 700 travel features for
titles that include BBC Wildlife, BBC Earth,
Geographical and National Geographic Traveller.
2 NickDall
South Africa, page 52
“Mountain Zebra Park is in the heart of Schreiner
country. Once, I was treated to a moonrise
torn straight from the pages of The Story of
an African Farm. ‘The dry, sandy earth, with
its coating of stunted karoo bushes...the milk-
bushes with their long finger-like leaves, all were
touched by a weird and an almost oppressive
beauty as they lay in the white light.’”
Nick is a writer based in Cape Town. His work
has been published all over the world.
4 SarahGilbert
Botswana,page 62
“Part of the beauty of a mobile camping safari
is being at one with the bush and — quite
literally — on the same level as the wildlife.
Watching a pack of hunting wild dogs racing
through the campsite at breakfast, lunching
with elephant and dining with lion were all
unforgettable experiences.”
Sarah contributes to a variety of publications,
including Wanderlust, Geographical, BBC
Wildlife and Travel Africa.
CONTRIBUTE TO TRAVEL AFRICA
We welcome contributions from new writers and photographers. We have even created specific sections to enable readers to share their
advice, and offer opportunities to run additional content on our website and through our app. Please email us at editor@travelafricamag.com.
3 AnnabelleVenter
Namibia, page 70
“Always searching for beautiful images and
stories, I once drove 420km south, on good
advice, to photograph the annual lily spectacle
near Maltahöhe. I arrived at sunset to find 800
hectares of crisp, drying lilies. Timing
is everything and flower photography in
Namibia is not for sissies!”
Annabelle celebrates the beauty of southern
Africa in words, photographs and ceramics. She‘s
a regular contributor to Travel News Namibia.
5 WilliamGray
Zambia,page 84
“Sometimes you don’t even have to leave your
tent for an intimate encounter with Zambia’s
wildlife. I’ll never forget the time in Lower
Zambezi National Park when an elephant
dangled its trunk into my open-air en suite
to drink from the toilet. Thankfully, I wasn’t
using it at the time…”
Will is the author of Footprint’s Wildlife Travel
and the Globetrotter Guide to Zambia, and
has written for numerous publications.
1
2
3
5
6 DominicCouzens
Malawi, page 78
“I was hoping for a good night’s sleep on my last
evening in Malawi. Not a chance — that night
at Liwonde, there was a huge thunderstorm.
Once that had finished, an elephant decided to
thrash about in the bush beside my cabin. Next,
the hippo started a dispute on the nearby Shire
River. And then the dawn chorus began...”
Dominic is a writer and tour leader. He has
penned books on birding and articles in
Birdwatching and BBC Wildlife.
4
6

www.ethiopianairlines.com
AIRLINE
PROUD TO BE A

SPONSORED EDITORIAL
Desert & Delta Safaris operate eight premier lodges in the Okavango Delta, Moremi Game Reserve,
Chobe National Park and Makgadikgadi Pans National Park — the best safari circuit in Botswana
Follow us on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter @desertdelta or visit www.desertdelta.com
1CHOBE RIVER
[CHOBEGAMELODGE&CHOBE
SAVANNALODGE]
The Chobe National Park is home
to the largest concentration of
elephants in Africa and is one of
the continent’s leading wildlife
destinations. The famous Chobe
River, forming the park’s northern
boundary, provides a permanent
source of water for the region’s
wildlife. Experience the diversity
of the Chobe River from a boat or
go in search of wildlife on a guided
vehicle safari. Cultural visits to the
nearby communities offer a taste
of life in Botswana.
3THE OKAVANGO DELTA,
THE JEWEL OF THE
KALAHARI [CAMP OKAVANGO
& XUGANA ISLAND LODGE]
A UNESCO World Heritage Site,
the Okavango Delta is one of the
largest and most important inland
wetlands of the world, supporting
a rich diversity of fauna and flora.
Immerse yourself in the wonders
of the Delta on traditional mokoro
safaris, motorised boat excursions
and guided bush walks on the many
islands within the wetland.
4THEBOTETI RIVER,WITNESSBOTSWANA’SZEBRA
MIGRATION [LEROO LA TAU]
On the western edge of the Makgadikgadi Pans NP, the
Boteti River provides a lifeline for thousands of zebra and
wildebeest which migrate here in the dry months. Along with
the annual migration and exceptional wildlife encounters,
a visit to Leroo La Tau offers the chance to engage with
Botswana culture on a visit to the nearby Khumaga Village.
5SAVUTE, BOTSWANA’S
SAVAGE KINGDOM
[SAVUTE SAFARI LODGE]
Owing to the unpredictable
nature of the Savute Channel
and the high concentrations
of wildlife which inhabit the
area, the Savute Region
of the Chobe National
Park is arguably one of Botswana’s
most sought-after safari destinations. Known as the ‘Savage
Kingdom’, Savute is renowned for its exceptional predator
interactions due to the large prides of lion which have
dominated the region for decades.
Established in 1982, the Desert &
Delta Safaris portfolio of iconic
safari lodges offers the perfect
circuit through world famous
national parks, renowned
wildlife-rich private concessions
and historic community areas,
ensuring a fully-immersive luxury
Botswana safari. Here are the
highlights of an all-encompassing
safari with Desert & Delta Safaris
Botswana
safari circuit
2THE MOREMI GAME
RESERVE, A FIRST IN
AFRICA [CAMP MOREMI &
CAMP XAKANAXA]
Established in 1963, the
Moremi Game Reserve was
the first sanctuary in Southern
Africa to be set aside by a
local community. Today it is
recognised as one of Africa’s finest
reserves. Its location within the
Okavango Delta wetland results
in a rich diversity of natural
landscapes and exceptional
wildlife encounters.
1
2
4
5
3
The ideal

10 marathons around Africa
to add on to your safari
Page 20
After dark
At night, under a sky seething with stars, game
drives take on a different dimension. The air is
cooler, enhancing the scent of wild herbs crushed
under the wheels, and the stable-yard whiff of
elephant dung. Even the soundtrack changes
as the night-watch take over, the eerie voices of
spotted hyenas adding a sinister counterpoint
to the nocturnal chorus of owls and crickets.
It’s time for the guide to switch on the spotlight,
sweeping a world of fathomless darkness in
search of eyes that shine like jewels. Night
game driving is a lucky dip in which you never
know what you might find: genets, bush babies,
aardvarks, porcupines. Or perhaps the prince of
darkness himself: a male leopard on the prowl.
BRIAN JACKMAN
THE EMOTIVE IMPACT OF AFRICA
FIRST IMPRESSION
FREDSWIFT/ALEXWALKER’SSERIAN
CHRIS PARKES

THE MAP THAT TELLS A STORY
PERSPECTIVE
MOROCCO
RABAT
DATE OF INSCRIPTION: 2012
THE COUNTRY’S CAPITAL CITY, AND
ITS SECOND-LARGEST METROPOLIS,
IS LESS TOURISTY THAN FAMOUS
MARRAKECH. WITH A PRISTINE
BEACH, AN EVOCATIVE KASBAH AND A
BEAUTIFUL WALLED MEDINA, THE CITY
OFFERS THE BEST OF OLD-MEETS-NEW
CULTURE WITHOUT THE CROWDS.
KENYA
KENYA LAKE SYSTEM IN THE
GREAT RIFT VALLEY
MADE UP OF THREE
INTERLINKING LAKES —
BOGORIA, NAKURU AND
ELEMENTAITA — THE AREA
COVERS A TOTAL OF ABOUT
320SQ KM. IT IS HOME TO
SOME OF THE HIGHEST BIRD
DIVERSITIES IN THE WORLD
AND IT IS THE SINGLE MOST
IMPORTANT FORAGING SITE
FOR THE LESSER FLAMINGO.
READ MORE ON PAGE 158.
NAMIBIA
NAMIB SAND SEA
THE ONLY COASTAL DESERT IN
THE WORLD THAT INCLUDES
EXTENSIVE DUNE FIELDS
INFLUENCED BY FOG, THIS
LANDSCAPE IS UNIQUE AND
EXCEPTIONALLY BEAUTIFUL,
WITH MULTIPLE CHANGING
MICROHABITATS THAT
FEATURE ENDEMIC WILDLIFE.
SENEGAL
BASSARI COUNTRY
THE REGION IS FILLED WITH RICE
PADDIES, TERRACES, VILLAGES,
HAMLETS AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL
SITES. THE SETTLEMENTS ARE
DENSE GROUPS OF HUTS WITH
THATCHED ROOFS HOME TO
THE BASSARI, FULA AND BEDIK
PEOPLES, WHOSE CULTURES
ARE STILL VIBRANT AND
WORTH EXPERIENCING.
SUDAN
SANGANEB MARINE NATIONAL
PARK AND DUNGONAB BAY
SANGANEB, AN ISOLATED CORAL
REEF, AND DUNGONAB BAY MAKE
UP THE TWO COMPONENTS
OF SUDAN’S NEWEST WORLD
HERITAGE SITE. THEY COMPRISE
REEFS, MANGROVES, BEACHES
AND ISLETS, PROVIDING HABITATS
FOR SEABIRDS, MAMMALS, FISH,
SHARKS, TURTLES, MANTA RAYS
AND DUGONGS.
BOTSWANA
OKAVANGO DELTA
ONE OF THE CONTINENT’S BEST-KNOWN
AND MOST FAMOUS ECOSYSTEMS, THIS IS
ONE OF THE SEVEN NATURAL WONDERS
OF AFRICA, CHOSEN FOR ITS SCALE
AND MAGNIFICENCE. NOTABLE ANIMAL
POPULATIONS INCLUDE ELEPHANT,
BUFFALO, HIPPO, WILDEBEEST, LION AND
GIRAFFE, AMONG OTHERS.
CHAD
ENNEDI MASSIF
THIS PLATEAU — SCULPTED BY WINDS
AND RAIN OVER THOUSANDS OF YEARS
— FEATURES CANYONS, VALLEYS,
CLIFFS AND PITONS, AND IS REPLETE
WITH WATERWAYS AND AN ECLECTIC
ARRAY OF FLORA AND FAUNA. MOST
IMPRESSIVE IS THE ROCK ART THAT HAS
BEEN DISCOVERED ON THE SURFACES OF
CAVES, CANYONS AND SHELTERS.
ETHIOPIA
KONSO CULTURAL LANDSCAPE
STONEWALLED TERRACES AND FORTIFIED
VILLAGES MAKE UP THIS 55SQ-KM
SETTLEMENT, OFFERING A REAL-LIFE EXAMPLE
OF A LIVING CULTURAL TRADITION THAT
STRETCHES BACK MORE THAN 400 YEARS.
LOOK OUT FOR THE ANTHROPOMORPHIC
WOODEN STATUES SAID TO REPRESENT
COMMUNITY MEMBERS AND HEROIC EVENTS.
New World
Heritage Sites
Earth is incredibly diverse, both in terms
of cultural and environmental marvels.
There are hundreds of different, complex
and beautiful places that contribute to the
rich tapestry of natural and human history
— and Africa is no different. Indeed, the
continent has no fewer than 135 UNESCO
World Heritage Sites, with others whose
status is currently pending. Here are some
of the most recent and most interesting
additions to this important list.
JACK ANDREW CRIBB
ABOVE: The River Bou
Regreg seafront and
Kasbah des Oudaias in
Rabat, the Moroccan
capital. BELOW RIGHT:
A lesser flamingo,
common in Kenya’s
Lake System

VISIT WWW.MACHABASAFARIS.COM
FOR FURTHER INFO EMAIL ENQUIRIES@MACHABASAFAIS.COM
A WARM WELCOME TO BOTSWANA & ZIMBABWE
Machaba Safaris presents four luxury safari camps, bringing you the best the Okavango
Delta and Zimbabwe has to offer. Machaba and Little Machaba Camps are situated in the
Khwai Concession on the Khwai river, bordering the Moremi Game Reserve.
Gomoti Plains Camp is located further south into the Okavango Delta, on the edges of the
Gomoti ﬂood-plain system.
Our newest addition to the portfolio, Verney’s Camp, is situated in Hwange National Park,
a beautiful piece of unspoilt wilderness. A safari combining these areas provides one with a
complete safari experience.

SPONSORED EDITORIAL
MALE BEAUTY PAGEANT
Each year, at the end of the rainy season in
September, thousands of Wodaabe — a sub-
group of the nomadic Fulani people — gather to
participate in the Gerewol Festival at a location
that is only revealed days before. This is the
most important date in the Wodaabe calendar,
where clans and families congregate for a
week-long get-together of socialising, dancing,
courtship, horse races, trade... and courtship.
At its heart is the male beauty pageant.
The Wodaabe are unashamedly vain. Tall,
slim, white teeth, white eyes, long and an
aquiline nose are considered desirable traits
by Wodaabe women. Young men are up at
daybreak, armed with pocket mirrors, with
family members helping to ensure they are
perfectly groomed.
This involves a lengthy process of shaving
hairlines, plaiting hair, coating their faces with
red ochre, crushed chalk, clay
and burned bones, and
daubing on lines and
white dots in floral
formations to
accentuate facial
Gerewol FestivalThe Gerewol Festival is a beauty pageant with a refreshing twist:
the men do the impressing and the women pick the winners.
Earning the approval of a woman offers an array of rewards,
whether it is a lover, wife or a single night of passion. It is possibly
Africa’s most spectacular tribal festival.
symmetry. Black kohl is a favourite hue, as it
helps emphasise the eyes and teeth.
Depending on the clan, the men drape
themselves in traditional and ceremonial
dress, consisting of bejewelled tunics, braids
of cowrie shells, white armlets made from
goats’ beards, soft leather wraps or skirts and
sparkling crowns. Towering ostrich plumes
and woollen tassels may be placed onto of
their headdress to accentuate their height.
MUSIC & DANCE
There are many dances which occur
in circular formations that spring up
spontaneously, but the Yaake is the dance that
every man wants to excel in; he who is chosen
as the most attractive in the Yaake will not fall
short of female admirers.
To achieve this, the men must dance and
sing in a long line, arms interlinked, swaying
and moving to the rhythm, eyes wide open in
mock surprise while chattering “va va va va
va” continuously at lightning speed, baring
their sparkling white teeth. To master the
Yaake, the dancers must strive to emulate the
grace, elegance and movements of the long-
legged white cattle egret.
Lasting hours under the hot sun, this can
be brutal, although some of the men have an
ancient trick up their sleeve: some will drink
a fermented bark concoction which has been
rumoured to have a hallucinogenic effect and
enable them to dance for hours on end.
Visit the
HOW TO
ATTEND
For a rare and extraordinary
cultural experience, visit the
Gerewol Festival in Chad in
September 2018 with Origins
Safaris. For more info and to
watch a video, follow the link
at originsafaris.com
THE JUDGES
The Yaake is performed in front of
thousands of Woodabe clan members,
but the most important are the young
marriageable women, who huddle in
graceful poises in the crowd, keeping a
discerning and enthusiastic eye on their
subjects. Three of the most beautiful
women are chosen to select the most
attractive males. Each chooses her
champion by walking slowly along the line
of dancers and swiftly pointing to them.
Winning the Yaake will enhance the man’s
sexual and social status, respect and a
pick of all the women.Some of the women
may already have a husband. Every
Wodaabe girl has an arranged marriage,
but there is always the possibility of a
second one. A married woman can choose
to be ‘stolen’, leaving her husband behind.
There is no stigma attached to setting
one’s marriage aside at the
Gerewol Festival, temporarily
or permanently.
Origins Safaris – Authentic
African experiences since 1963
www.originsafaris.com
tasafari@originsafaris.info

THE SPOTS THAT MAKE OUR HEARTS SING
FAVOURITE PLACE
WILDERNESSSAFARIS/DANAALLEN
The Busanga Plains,
Kafue National Park,
Zambia
“As I grew up in Zambia, the Kafue will
always have a special place in my heart. The
sense of wilderness here is remarkable: it
is wonderfully hard to get to, the vistas are
endless, the wildlife unique. In the northern
Busanga Plains, the elephant are very wild,
the black-maned lion magnificent, and the
occasional cheetah so special to see.
My memories are of the vast starlight
skies, cold mornings and the smell of potato
bush, but most of all the vision of countless
lechwe appearing from the mist at sunrise.
The Busanga is truly untamed and
a photographer’s dream.”
GILES TROTTER IS AN EXPERIENCED TOUR OPERATOR
AND A FOUNDING PARTNER OF TIMBUKTU TRAVEL.
To read more about Zambia’s wildlife
highlights, including the Busanga
Plains, turn to page 84.

THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE STORIES
CHARACTERS
Despite her corporate marketing
background, you sense Radier
won’t be happy to sell Kenya in the
traditional way: “Please don’t give
me a dead cat to swing at a client,”
she jokes. “Just give me a good
product and I’ll do my job. I can
see the potential, and I can see the
challenges. This industry has not yet
reinvented itself. Consumers have
changed. They want options; they
want flexibility. They want to book
an adventure today and change it
tomorrow. They will discover the
route you didn’t take them. And we’re
trying to capture that.”
She cites a new zip-line
experience north-west of Nairobi
and a population of white crocodiles
in the Rift Valley. These ideas are
being promoted on social media
by the Kenya Tourism Board (KTB)
as #TembeaKenya, a campaign
aimed at encouraging Kenyans to
explore (‘tembea’ in Swahili) their
own backyard.
Toaddresstheinternational
market,theKTBhasamajorthematic
marketingcampaignplanned,using
“incrediblelocations,setupwith
theproperlight,withanincredible
director”.Inparallel,it’llrunadigital
campaigndrivenbytheoffbeat
natureof#TembeaKenya. “That
one’s about you and meand the
experienceswehave,withphotos
andvideosonsocialmedia.”Ofthe
twoprogrammes,sheclaims,“we’re
findingthelessstage-managed,
moreadventurousrouteispreferred.”
Radier, whose parents came from
Kisumu, grew up in Nairobi, going to
the elite Kianda School for girls, and
the University of Nairobi where she
While Kenya is still the second-
biggest destination in
sub-Saharan Africa after
South Africa, tourism here has been a
roller-coaster over the past decade.
Bad PR — from drought and grazing
incursions in Laikipia to polling chaos
at the elections — continues to batter
its reputation, and there are currently
no charter flights from the UK.
Dr Betty Radier, however, is
relentlessly upbeat. Name-checked
as one of only three movers and
shakers in Kenya who truly ‘gets’
tourism, she happily accepts the
compliment and ascribes it to her
long background in advertising:
“Tourism in Kenya is about marketing
the destination. I’m not a government
person, I break all the protocols. I
need to build the equity of our brand.”
After university, Radier worked at
Ogilvy & Mather and a series of other
big ad agencies. She moved on to
Microsoft and then Samsung to work
in operations around Africa, where
she began to appreciate the potential
of what Kenya had to offer. She
moved back into advertising before
the government came calling.
Pressed on her own favourite
places in Kenya, and on where
Kenya’s tourism potential truly
lies, she says: “Unfortunately, I like
comfort!” She is a big fan of the
conservancies, mentioning Lewa,
and the remote luxury lodge on
Rusinga Island in Lake Victoria.
Iaskherwheresheisgoingnext.
LaikipiaandwesternKenyafor
starters. RumaNationalPark, near
LakeVictoria,isunder-visited,she
says,andthere’sgreatbirdinginthe
area,butapaucityofhotelssofar.
completed a Master’s Degree before
doing her PhD at the Graduate School
of Business in Cape Town, publishing
a thesis on Entrepreneurship and
Small Business Development.
I ask her how she would
differentiate Kenya from other
countries for the potential visitor.
She talks about its “unstaged safaris”
and the cultural contrast between
the Swahili people of Lamu and the
pastoralists of the Masai Mara. She is
a great champion for Nairobi: “Nairobi
National Park really does feel like
the Mara.” The capital’s burgeoning
artistic and culinary culture, ranging
from craft centres to an increasingly
good nightlife, are also big draws.
Howdoessheplantolurethe
charterflightoperatorsbackto
Mombasa,thehubforthecoast
anditshundredsofunder-occupied
hotels?“That’sadifficultone,”she
says.“Ithasbeenhitthemostinterms
ofqualityandvalue.Wethinkwemight
havetobuildanewcity.”Inthecurrent
climate,amassiveinfrastructure
projectlikethatseemsextremely
ambitious.Butthereisaplanthat
mighthelp:“Wewouldlovetowork
withZanzibarandmainlandTanzania
toallowcharteroperatorstohave
severaldestinations,andtoboostthe
attractionoftheregionasawhole.”
Working with Tanzania would be
a game changer. Potential visitors
to East Africa are befuddled by
the difficulty of combining the two
countries. But Radier has plenty on
her plate at home in Kenya. Abolishing
visa fees (currently US$59) would be
a good start, as would bringing the
country’s neglected Masai Mara and
Samburu national reserves under
the responsible management of
conservation trusts.
Tourism in Kenya will surely
survive the political fallout from
the controversial re-run of its
presidential elections in 2017. With
Betty Radier as eloquent champion
of its enduring rewards, visitors have
plenty to look forward to.
Consumers
have
changed.
They want
options;
they want
flexibility.
They want
to book an
adventure
today and
change it
tomorrow.
They will
discover the
route you
didn’t take
them. And we
are trying to
capture that
Kenya is one of Africa’s foremost destinations, yet it
faces big challenges. Richard Trillo talks to Dr Betty Radier,
the new Chief Executive of Kenya Tourism, to find out more
Meeting the
challenge head on
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YOUR SHORTCUT TO BIG ADVENTURES IN GREAT PLACES
NUMBERS GAME
RUNNING
WILDAthletes and amateurs alike are
helping to save the environment
and support local communities by
taking part in marathons around the
continent. Henry Bevan gives us the
lowdown on 10 physical contests to
tackle on your next African adventure
1 MALAWI IMPACT MARATHON
21-27 May 2018, Lake Malawi, Malawi
Based on the shores of the serene Lake of Stars,
this marathon is a great example of the positive
impact that these events can have on the
environment and the community. Participants are
able to witness where their fundraising goes and
spend a week living with the locals, volunteering
at projects and relaxing at night. This is not about
winning; it’s about forming bonds with the fellow
racers and the people of Malawi.
Distances Full marathon (42km); half-
marathon (21km); and 10km.
2 KILIMANJARO MARATHON
4 March 2018, Kilimanjaro, Tanzania
Unlike the other races on this list, the
Kilimanjaro Marathon is about having
a party. Local bands play alongside the
starting line and crowds of locals cheer
the runners on. Many of Africa’s best
athletes take part, and under the shadow
of the famous mountain, participants
can counteract their carbon footprint by
donating money to Carbon Tanzania.
Once across the finish line, most
celebrate by cracking open a cold one.
Distances Full marathon (42km);
half-marathon (21km); 10km
wheelchair and hand
cycle; and a fun run
(approximately 5km).
3 VICTORIA FALLS MARATHON
1 July 2018, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
The spectacular Victoria Falls is the setting for this
marathon. Runners race between Zimbabwe and Zambia,
crossing the border on the famous Victoria Falls Bridge.
There is no time for a passport stamp as the course
charges into the Zambezi National Park before finishing
on Kazungula Road. Runners are asked to donate books,
pens and anything else the local schools need.
Distances Full marathon (42km); half-marathon (21km);
and 7.5km.ARK IMAGES

21Travel Africa | January-March 2017 21Travel Africa | January-March 2018
5 THE SANLAM CAPE TOWN MARATHON
22-23 September 2018, Cape Town, South Africa
Taking place annually on South Africa’s Heritage
Day, the Sanlam Cape Town Marathon is Africa’s
only Gold Star marathon. The route also gives
competitors an enviable city tour — they start and
finish on the V&A Waterfront, passing monuments
reflecting the mother city’s good and bad history.
Distances Full marathon (42.2km); half-marathon
(22km); 12km; 10km; and a fun run (4.2km).
6 THE EGYPTIAN MARATHON
12 January 2018, Luxor, Egypt
Legend states that until Oedipus answered a riddle
correctly Luxor’s ancient cousin, Thebes, was blighted
by a sphinx. Today, ancient stone sphinxes overlook
the contenders in Egypt’s mothership marathon. It
is a run through history as the route winds along the
Valley of the Kings, past Tutankhamun’s tomb and
back into Luxor’s modern metropolis.
Distances Half-marathon (22.2km); 12.3km; and
a fun run (5km).
7 TWO OCEANS MARATHON
30 and 31 March 2018, Cape Town, South Africa
Two Oceans is one of the world’s most beautiful
ultra-marathons. Set in the Cape Peninsula, the
56km circular route encapsulates both the Atlantic
and Indian oceans as well as some stunning
woodland scenery. For the less fit, a half-marathon
and international friendship run are also available.
Distances Ultra-marathon (56km); half-marathon
(21km); trail run (24km and 12km); and fun runs
(2.1km and 5.6km).
9 COMRADES MARATHON
10 June 2018, KwaZulu-Natal Province, South Africa
The oldest ultra-marathon in the world demands
respect. Starting in Pietermaritzburg and finishing in
Durban by way of an 89km detour, Comrades creates
blisters, although this year’s contestants should
consider themselves lucky — they will be running the
race downhill. Through the pain, a rare camaraderie
forms between those crazy enough to attempt this.
Distance 89km.
10 SAFARICOM MARATHON
TBC, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Kenya
People often run marathons for charity, but
Safaricom puts its conservation and community
aims front and centre. Set in the shadow of Mount
Kenya, participants race across open plains past
wildlife, but don’t expect it to be a jog in the park —
at an altitude of 1670m, runners have to earn
their funds.
Distances Full marathon (42km); and half-
marathon (21km).
8 STREET CHILD SIERRA LEONE MARATHON
27 May 2018, Sierra Leone
Nicknamed ‘the world’s craziest but most worthwhile marathon’, this route weaves along a
dirt-road course through dense jungle. It’s tough — but supporters from the local villages
spur you on with high fives and cheers. In the three days prior to the race, participants
spend time helping with community projects and playing football with the locals. Tears of
joy never felt so good.
Distances Full marathon (42km); half-marathon (21km); 10km; and 5km.
4 UGANDA INTERNATIONAL MARATHON
3 June 2018, Masaka, Uganda
The Uganda International Marathon is not kind to
personal bests. A hilly course with the terrain alternating
between dirt roads and sand, runners are tested and
rewarded with Uganda’s best views. The money
raised supports the local Masaka region,
promoting the Global Goals for Sustainable
Development, such as gender equality
and ending poverty.
Distances Full marathon (42km); half-
marathon (21km); and 10km.
DANPEEL
TAMIWALKER
ARK IMAGES

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Taking it to the
next level
providing powerful experiences
for a long time, “but demand is
shifting towards more active
experiences that enrich and
transform and to journeys infused
with greater purpose such as
boosting conservation”.
So, while the main draw to
Africa remains the wilderness
and wild animals, experiential
travellers now want to learn
about the extraordinary biological
cauldron that is the bushveld, to
understand the threats posed
by population growth and
international criminal gangs,
and to engage with the long-
overlooked rural communities that
live with the wild animals.
It is not widely known that in
many African countries, more
than 70 per cent of wildlife lives
outside the national parks and
is thus in constant conflict with
rural communities. At last, more
adventurous international
travellers are coming to
recognise this, and through this
recognition, the travel industry
may yet become a major
contributor to the salvation of
Africa’s wildlife. About time.
GRAHAM BOYNTON has written for numerous newspapers and magazines, including Vanity Fair, Esquire and Condé Nast Traveller,
and was the travel editor of The Daily and Sunday Telegraph between 1998 and 2012. The views expressed in this column are his own.
boasts … all the antithesis of
profound life experiences. As a
result what they want now is blood
and thunder and real life; learning
experiences in foreign lands that
enhance their understanding of
real people; adventure that gets
the heart racing.
Naturally, the travel industry
is responding to these changing
needs, marketing its experiential
offerings with gusto. Industry
gatherings such as Pure in
Morocco and We Are Africa in
Cape Town are now bursting with
experiential products, lectures
and seminars.
We Are Africa’s managing
director Ryan Wallace says that in
his view Africa has always been
the leader in experiential and
adventure travel. “But what we
are seeing now is an acceleration
on the demand side, so that
even city hotels are increasingly
expected to be an access point
to a neighbourhood and facilitate
more meaningful interactions
with their surrounding
community and elements.”
As Wallace says, the lodges
and safari operators have been
There was a time when
the word ‘holiday’ meant
we travelled to a foreign
place, usually somewhere hot
and sunny, and did not do very
much at all. The accent was on
reclining, eating and drinking and,
if you were in Africa, staring at
processions of wild animals from
the comfort of a Land Rover.
But that world seems to have
passed into folklore. These days,
we want much more out of our
travel experiences — we want to
be engaged and active and to
take something emotionally and
intellectually substantial home with
us. The buzzword is ‘experiential’.
This is confirmed by Chris
McIntyre, founder and managing
director of Expert Africa. “A decade
or two ago,” he says, “our travellers
were content to visit Africa and
passively see what was there. Now
they’re much more demanding
about the experiences that we can
offer them in Africa — the holy grail
is ‘real’ experiences, interacting
with interesting or knowledgeable
locals, which aren’t scripted or
rehearsed in any way.”
Not surprisingly, this is being
driven by a new generation of
international travellers emerging
from a decade of being slaves of
social media, a world of instant
responses, shallow shared
encounters, Pinterest-inspired
bucket lists and endless Instagram
MUSINGS ON TRAVEL MATTERS
GRAHAM BOYNTON
Graham Boynton reports on
the rise of experiential travel
JOIN THE DISCUSSION
Please tell us your
thoughts on this subject
at travelafricamag.com
or email editor@
travelafricamag.com.
While the
main draw
to Africa
remains the
wilderness
and wild
animals,
experiential
travellers
now want
to learn
about the
extraordinary
biological
cauldron
that is the
bushveld
TOK-TOKKIETRAILS(2)

24
CONNECTIONS
A LETTER FROM AFRICA
January-March 2018 | Travel Africa
Africa’s answer to Pompeii
Stuart Butler reflects on his journey in Algeria to visit some of
the finest but least-known Roman sites in existence
I’m sure that many of you will know
what I’m talking about when I say
that I can still recall the wonder I
felt as a child when first hearing
about the Roman town of Pompeii
and how it was famously buried
under volcanic ash clouds. Even
back then, it was a place that
I longed to visit one day.
In my case it took many years
until that chance came, but finally,
early last autumn, as the first
wisps of winter wrapped around
southern Italy, I found myself in
Pompeii. And yet, after all those
years of waiting, Pompeii left me
cold. It was just too sterile and,
despite the murky winter weather,
the thousands of other tourists
I shared the site with gave me no
chance for quiet contemplation.
That evening, as I sat in a café
feeling a little cheated, I started
talking to another Pompeii tourist
who turned out to be something of
an expert on Roman sites. When I
toldhimofmyslightdisappointment
with Pompeii, he smiled knowingly
and said simply, “Algeria. Go to
northern Algeria.” And so I did.
Prior to that moment, my
knowledge of Algeria was next
to none. Probably like you, I knew
that there had been a horrific civil
war there in the not-so-distant
past, but I couldn’t be quite sure
if this was over or not, and if the
country was safe to visit. (The
answers to those questions
turned out to be: yes, the war
is over — it finished way back
in 2002 — and yes, much of the
north of the country is safe, but
there are still no-go areas on
most borders and one very small
mountain region of the north.)
One thing I certainly hadn’t
known until my fellow café diner
told me was that northern Algeria
is home to some of the finest
Roman sites in existence.
A few weeks after this
Pompeii tableside conversation,
I found myself standing on the
uppermost platform of a near-
complete Roman amphitheatre.
Streaks of snow-blanketed distant
hilltops and the brooding, dark
clouds carried the promise of
further flurries. All around me,
as far as I could see, lay broken
pillars, twisted paving slabs and
proud arches and columns still
standing after two millennia. But
what was even more remarkable
about this scene was that there
wasn’t a single other person here.
I had the entire Roman garrison
city of Timgad totally to myself.
With a smile, I wondered how
many people might be jostling in
the rain around Pompeii at that
very moment.
It turned out that Timgad
wasn’t even the only mesmerising
Roman city in northern Algeria.
Down on the coast, where a wind-
lashed, wintery Mediterranean
kicked up the waves, was Hippo
Regius. Smaller than Timgad,
and somehow more welcoming,
here the vestiges of Rome lay
scattered among meadows
of yellow buttercup-like flowers,
while up on the hill behind
the site was a large, modern,
domineering basilica dedicated
to St Augustine, who had
supposedly made Hippo Regius
his home.
But if I’d been impressed with
Timgad and Hippo Regius, then
my third and final stop in Algeria
left me dumbfounded. Djémila,
which sits in a bowl between
mountain peaks, was established
in the first century as a military
outpost. Yet even today it was
clear to see that this had been no
glum and functional army camp.
The word Djémila translates as
‘beautiful’. It’s a simple name, but
it’s undeniably appropriate. Yes,
there are grander Roman sites in
Algeria, but Djémila has a grace
and a mountain-meadow setting
that speak of poetry.
Like in Timgad and Hippo Regius,
here in Djémila I walked alone with
the spirits of the Roman past.
Here I could sit on the stone slabs
where market women once laid out
vegetables and, in a silence broken
only by distant birdsong and the
occasional bray of a donkey, I
could almost make out an echo of
Latin voices and hear the stamp of
legionaries marching past.
Perhaps one day, when the
world has come to realise that
Algeria is no longer a country at
war with itself, the tour buses
will arrive and the ghosts of
Djémila will have to move on to
some quieter place, but for now
take my word for it, and if a man
in a Pompeii café tells you to go
to Algeria, listen to him — for he
speaks wise words.
HOW TO BOOK The author travelled with Expert Algeria, which can organise tours of the historic sites in the north,
epic adventures in the Sahara and combinations of the two.
All around
me, as far as
I could see,
lay broken
pillars,
twisted
paving slabs
and proud
arches and
columns still
standing
after two
millennia.
But what
was even
more
remarkable
about this
scene was
that there
wasn’t a
single other
person here
PHOTOGRAPHSBYSTUARTBUTLER

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The
Roman city of Djémila overlooks
blue-grey mountains; a cobbled
road leading to the Djémila market
place; the ruins of Hippo Regius lie
among meadows of wildflowers;
from the amphitheatre, the Roman
ruins of Timgad stretch away almost
as far as you can see; a man in a
café at the foot of the forgotten city

AFRICA AT HOME
Art & design
WHAT’S NEW Some of Africa’s best contemporary artworks can be found all over Cape Town between 16 and
18 February as the continent’s most revered and newest artists have their work shown in the Cape Town Art Fair.
COMPILED BY HENRY BEVAN
Meet the designer
Maria Airey spoke to Lilian K Danieli about her fashion-forward
clothing line, NASHONA, which is soaked in African culture
How would you describe NASHONA?
NASHONA(‘Isew’inSwahili)specialises
incombiningtraditionalAfricanprints
withmodernpatternstoachievea
uniquestyle.Asthesloganreads,its
productsare‘madewithlove’.
What is the goal of the company?
Our greatest aim is to get the brand
into the big stores. Getting into larger
shops will allow us to produce more
clothing and more jobs will be created.
Westrivetohelpourcommunities.
Are you involved with any
charitable organisations?
NASHONA donates a portion of all the
sales to sponsor children’s education
at the Shalom Orphanage in Karatu,
Tanzania. nashona.com
AFRICA AT HOME The Africa House
offers many stylish products,
such as this hand-painted and
unique Elephant Cushion Cover
created by Tribal Textiles in Zambia.
theafricahouse.com, £17.20
Nature’s eye
The stark contrast between the graphite pencil and the white background is attention grabbing, but it is the eyes
that make wildlife artist David Filer’s artwork linger. “So much of animals, or humans for that matter, so much of
their personality, life, soul and being is in their eyes – that’s where the spark lies,” says Filer. His style came from
many “happy accidents” and he fell in love with carving “the subject out of paper”. A variety of animals are featured
in his artwork, and as he says, animals “are so much easier to deal with than people”. davidfilerart.com
DAVIDFILER
NASHONA

UGanDA & RwANda
~ We treasure your
fond memory ~
As a traveller you will surely need a partner. Not just any partner, but one
to save you the stress of planning and organising your safari, to give you
confidence for a remarkable safari, give you maximum flexibility every inch
of your safari and, above all, offer you the most effective communication all
the way. You need someone to give you an expert insight!
At Home to Africa, those are exactly the reasons why we exist. We look upon
each traveller’s request as an opportunity to prove ourselves and to show
you how special we can make your safari in this region we know by heart.
We pride ourselves in creating the most exquisite custom-tailored safaris.
Whether you are an individual, couple, group of friends or family, we will
craft an adventure to meet your expectations. No one takes more pride than
we do in creating your trip of a lifetime.
Before booking I contacted few
travel agencies, I found Home to Africa were
the quickest to reply and answer all queries we
had. From start Mr Elias was very efficient and
helpful in organising our tour.
MOHAMMADB, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
TRIPADVISOR
‘‘Before booking I contacted fewBefore booking I contacted few
We had fun every day, the safaris were diverse
and so we could enjoy something new each
day. In a nutshell: a good and fast-responding
organisation; good, experienced tour
guides; a great personal touch.
FRANK, THE NETHERLANDS
TRIPADVISOR
’’+256 - 414 692378 / 774 872185 TOUR@HOMETOAFRICA.COM WWW.HOMETOAFRICA.COM
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AFRICA’S GRUB AND TIPPLES
FOOD & DRINK
TOPTABLESCape Town is world-famous for its culinary scene, and the
upmarket southern suburb of the Constantia Valley is no
different. Laura Griffith-Jones reveals her pick of the best
places to eat and drink to suit every palate and pocket
It’s easy to see why the Constantia
Valley, nestled beneath Table
Mountain National Park, is
renowned for its food and drink.
This idyllic suburb is the oldest
wine-producing region in the
Southern Hemisphere, home to eight
award-winning wine estates: Groot
Constantia, Steenberg Vineyards,
Constantia Uitsig, Klein Constantia,
Buitenverwachting, Eagles Nest, Constantia Glen and
Silvermist Vineyards. And where there’s good wine, first-class
cuisine usually follows. Whether you’re looking for fine dining
or a touch of Cape Malay, you’ll be spoilt for choice.
TABLE WITH A VIEW
CHEFS WAREHOUSE AT BEAU CONSTANTIA
Set high on a hill on the Beau Constantia boutique wine
farm, this top-notch establishment serves phenomenal food
with a picturesque vista of vineyards stretching out to the
city beyond. This is the sister restaurant of the popular Chefs
Warehouse & Canteen on Bree Street, and chef Ivor Jones —
formerly of The Test Kitchen — conjures up platefuls that are
equally inspired, fresh and, most importantly, mouthwatering.
STANDOUT DISH Coal-fired blesbok rump, with chicken liver
parfait, hazelnut and red cabbage dressing.
PRICE POINT $$$
ASIAN TAPAS
BISTRO SIXTEEN82,
STEENBERG
WINE ESTATE
The Bistro is modern
and chic, with leather
seating and wine bottle
walls, overlooking a
pretty garden with
a lush lawn, elegant
water features and sculptures. It’s
a good spot for lunch if you’re
doing a Steenberg wine tour
and tasting or for an early
supper (it closes at 8pm) of
innovative Asian tapas such
as beef tataki. Inspired by her
travels in Thailand, executive
chef Kerry Kilpin’s (right)
aim is to create food that
is “seasonal, flavourful and
which bursts with freshness”.
STANDOUT DISH Sesame and
ginger sirloin salad with tender
greens, red cabbage, sprouts, chilli
and soy ginger vinaigrette and aioli.
PRICE POINT $$
IVOR JONES (2)
BISTRO SIXTEEN82

HIPHAUNT
THE BRASSERIE, FOREST GLADE HOUSE
This trendy spot, with low lighting,
exposed brick walls and quirky,
mismatched décor, serves simple
but scrummy dishes in a laidback
atmosphere. Legendary for its
wood-fired pizzas, it also dishes up
other good comfort food such as
smoked paprika potato skins and
Atlantic mussels, as well as classic
puddings such as crème brûlée
with a real vanilla pod. This is a
good option for families as it has
a designated Kiddies’ menu.
STANDOUT DISH Grilled venison
with curried carrot, pickled
apricot, asparagus and jus.
PRICE POINT $$
CAPEMALAYFLAVOUR
JONKERSHUIS CONSTANTIA, GROOT
CONSTANTIA WINE ESTATE
Located at South Africa’s oldest
winery, Jonkershuis feels steeped
in history. It’s a great lunch spot,
particularly after a morning
cellar tour or wine-and-chocolate
tasting, and you can enjoy a long
lunch under ancient oak trees,
overlooking the acres of vines. The
menu includes understated plates
such as fish and chips, ravioli and
roast chicken, but the focus is on
the city’s Cape Malay heritage,
with tasty traditional dishes such
as Karoo lamb or chicken curry
with local spices, fragrant basmati
rice, fresh coriander, poppadums
and roti.
STANDOUT DISH Oven-baked
bobotie: spiced minced beef,
egg custard, sultana and
almond turmeric rice and
cinnamon butternut.
PRICE POINT $$
COCKTAILS&NIBBLES
PEDDLARS, SPAANSCHEMAT RIVER ROAD
Constantia’s landmark pub since
1993, Peddlars is a much-loved spot
for a low-key dinner or drinks and
light bites. The relaxed ambience
makes it suitable for families, and
live music is played in a fairy-lit
garden, creating a fun backdrop for
a plate of fried calamari or similar.
There are some decadent puddings,
too, perfect washed down
with a cocktail.
STANDOUT DISH Chocolate nemesis:
flourless chocolate cake, mascarpone and berries.
PRICE POINT $
MARKETDAY
EARTHFAIR FOOD MARKET, TOKAI
A feast for the eyes, this
buzzing bazaar opens every
Wednesday and Saturday in an
old warehouse in Tokai. Local
artisanal producers include Dr
Juice, The Ice Cream Guys,
Origin Coffee, Earth Tribe,
Charlie’s Pickles, By Nature,
Bee-licious Honey and Funky
Fungi. With plenty of tasters
on offer, this is a fun foodie experience.
WHERE TO STAY
A great place to base yourself for your foodie tour of Constantia is the charming
Glen Avon Lodge, a family-run boutique hotel with 21 very comfortable en-suite
rooms, a swimming pool and pretty, rose-filled gardens. On a sun-drenched
terrace, it serves a delicious breakfast of cereals, cheese and pastries, fresh
fruit, yoghurt, homemade brown toast and ‘eggs however you like them’.
CREATIVE CUISINE
FOXCROFT, HIGH CONSTANTIA CENTRE
This new(ish) eatery is part of La Colombe trio, which
immediately bodes well. In a contemporary yet cosy
environment, the waiters bring out a string of beautifully
presented, sensational tapas dishes such as tuna tartare with
tempura avocado, miso, daikon, apple and baby gem. Co-
owners La Colombe’s Scot Kirton and Glen Foxcroft Williams
put seasonality, quality, flavour and attention to detail at the
forefront — and it shows.
STANDOUT DISH Slow-cooked lamb with kale, nettles,
whiskey mustard and mint.
PRICE POINT $$$
WINE & DINE
LA COLOMBE, SILVERMIST WINE ESTATE
Treat your taste buds to sublime dishes at one of South Africa’s
most iconic fine dining restaurants. Located on the Silvermist
organic wine estate, La Colombe has spectacular views of the
Constantia Valley, False Bay and Hout Bay. The man behind
the ever-changing menu is chef-proprietor Scot Kirton, whose
philosophy fuses clean Asian and French flavours and whose goal
is to achieve perfection on every plate. Book far in advance.
STANDOUT DISH Wagyu bone marrow, truffle, pickled fish, herbs
and char siu wagyu, langoustine, corn, bisque, bok choi and kimchi.
PRICE POINT $$$
CLAIRE GUNN
LAURA GRIFFITH-JONES
LA COLOMBETHE BRASSERIE

Boutique hotel in Constantia, Cape Town
www.glenavon.co.za stay@glenavon.co.za
holiday homes on the Kenya coast
– FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED –
www.kenyacoast.com
reservations@wildfrontiers.com
www.wildfrontiers.com
BUCKET LIST
TRIPS IN AFRICA
Mountain Gorillas
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Marathons and more…
DESIGNING EPIC ADVENTURES FOR OVER 25 YEARS

GADGETS THAT IMPROVE YOUR TRAVELS
TECHNOLOGY
Scoping out the options
Binoculars and telescopes can hugely enhance your safari experience as they
make focusing on faraway animals easier. But which one is more useful? With
the help of Swarovski Optik, Henry Bevan outlines the differences between the
two, before explaining the mysterious practice of digiscoping
Digiscoping
This is the process of converting
a telescope into a telephoto
lens, which, depending on the
telescope’s focal length, can be
around 1400/1500mm.
How does it work?
It is as simple as attaching,
pointing and shooting.
Photographers connect a
camera or smartphone to a
telescope or binoculars using
a T-Ring and a special adaptor.
DSLRs should use the shortest
shutter time and the automatic
settings on a smartphone to
take the best pictures.
Isn’t it impractical?
It doesn’t have to be. You can
save space and take amazing
photos by ditching the DSLR
and telescope (pictured
below) for a smartphone
and binoculars (left).
Binoculars
These come in all shapes and sizes, with prices ranging from £50
to £2000. They all do the same job, but are not equally effective.
The top-range items are more likely to have crystal-clear images,
HD glass and 100 per cent field of view for spectacle wearers.
The Swarovski EL 32 (pictured left) offers a comfortable viewing
experience and excellent image quality. However, for the casual
observer who enjoys trekking or just sitting in their garden,
a pocket binocular is ideal. For health and safety reasons, using
binoculars with a magnification of more than 10x for a prolonged
amount of time is not recommended.
Telescope
More serious nature watchers will
find telescopes offer richer images
with less portability. Telescopes
cost between £250 and £3000 plus.
Their objective lenses vary in size,
ranging from 50mm to 95mm.
Compared with binoculars, they
have more variable and higher
magnifications, but the quality
of the telescope dictates the
quality of the image. If you would
like to see a lion’s eyelashes, the
Swarovski STS80 (pictured right)
is a good choice.

32
JOURNAL
READERS SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCES
COMPILED BY HENRY BEVAN
Wilderness
untamedSafari addict and conservationist Kenneth Coe
has a wild time at Chad’s Zakouma National Park
I
pick up my satellite phone and
ring my family. Our daily calls
normally go off without a hitch,
but now it was hard to hear them
over the collective honking of more
than 500 black crowned cranes.
Once I had returned to Camp
Nomade, I telephoned back.
“What on earth was that noise?”
my wife said.
I have travelled to Africa more
than 30 times and visited some
of the best parks, but Zakouma
is different. At one point, I was
standing under countless red-
billed queleas roosting in the
forest for the night, the noise
and temperature escalating
past breaking point. The animals
assaulted the senses as different
species mingled. A herd of
more than a thousand tiang (right)
grazed a stone’s throw from
a flock of 300 spur-winged geese,
as the sunlight highlighted the
birds’ deep burgundy and sea-
green hues.
There is an astronomical
amount of life at Zakouma, but once
you become accustomed to being
surrounded by so much wildlife
you can start telling the difference
between the Central and East or
southern African animals. Here, the
male lions lack luxuriant manes,
the roan antelope is larger, with a
darker face and chest, and the black
crowned crane is a Central and
West African bird special, alongside
Beaudouin’s snake eagle and the
vinaceous dove.
Away from the animals, Camp
Nomade is a throwback to days
gone by. Eschewing trendy lodges,
the airy tents afford maximum
visibility to the outside, giving the
illusion of being on a sleep-out.
The mess tent should win
design awards with its
ornate, local carpets-cum-
flooring. Jamie, the host
and chef, will introduce
you to both subtle and
bold flavours you
have never experienced before.
None of this would be possible
without the hard conservation
work by African Parks, the reserve’s
principal administrator, and its
success would be nowhere near the
current level without the support
of the Chadian government,
which has largely supported
conservation and eco-tourism
efforts. Zakouma, once an elephant
killing field, is quickly becoming
Chad’s pièce de résistance.
During my seven-night stay,
I felt the palpable momentum the
dry season brings. Every day, there
is less and less water available and
the concentration of bird species
grows. The numbers will continue
to build until the first rains disperse
the wildlife. It is difficult to imagine
that, in the coming weeks, there
could be more cranes honking in
front of camp, or that there are
enough fish in the dwindling pans
to sustain the pelicans, or how the
already bending tree branches
can take any more roosting birds.
These explosions of life are normal
for Africa, but genuine glimpses
are now restricted to pockets such
as this, where the human footprint
is minimal.
On our last morning, the queleas
(above left) put on a show. They
had been drinking in front of camp
every day, and at 5.51am, the last
and largest flock arrived. It acted
as one giant organism, swooping
down suddenly and sucking up the
moisture for a few seconds. Then
they forcefully departed with
a loud whoosh, blackening
the sky and twirling
like a lasso. With their
departure, it was as if
nothing had ever happened. The
floodplain cleared and fell silent,
waiting for the cranes to swarm
in from their nightly roost to fill
the void.
CONTRIBUTE TO TRAVEL
AFRICA: We love hearing
from our readers and are
always looking for exciting
tales from the bush. So
please email your stories
and photographs to
editor@travelafrica
mag.com.
KENNETH COE (3)

MAGICAL MARA
In the Masai Mara, the stars
seemed brighter than ever
before and the sounds were
amplified. We were on a night
drive arranged by Il Ngwesi,
and were on the lookout for
owls. This took until the end
of the evening but there were
a few other compensations.
We spotted a pack of roughly
15 wild dogs playing with
sticks. Then a honey badger
appeared, followed by both
striped and spotted hyena.
It was all very exciting and
just one of the amazing
experiences arranged by the
lovely people here. Another is
sleeping on a star bed (top).
Il Ngwesi is a Maasai
community venture. More
than 20 years ago, the local
elders decided to set aside
a large part of their grazing
land for wildlife and built
a lodge consisting of six
thatched rooms. Most of the
staff and rangers are from
the villages. All the profits
help fund the community’s
education, healthcare and
infrastructure. This is their
land and their pride shines
through when talking to
anyone involved. Visitors are
asked if they want to go to
local homes or buy some of
the lovely beadwork.
The conservancy contains
the traditional animals:
zebra, giraffe and elephant.
Our first attempt to find the
two heavily protected white
rhinos was thwarted by two
squabbling elephant bulls.
The birdlife is prolific, and
there is always something to
spot. There are also a few lion,
leopard and cheetah prowling
around as well. Il Ngwesi stole
our hearts. We will go back.
ANDREW BUCKLEY
Elephant graduation
The David Sheldrick Wildlife
Trust rescues Kenya’s orphaned
elephants and raises them
before they are returned to the
wild. Many visitors have seen
the orphans being given milk
and heard the circumstances of
their arrival at the Nairobi-based
orphanage on the edge of the
national park, but only a few get
to see their next step towards
their reintegration to the wild.
Elephant calves graduate from
the orphanage to one of three
sites around Kenya. Ithumba in
the vast Tsavo East National Park
is the biggest of these ‘secondary
schools’. Within seconds of
arriving at our accommodation,
a cold beer was opened as we
watched some elephants bathing.
During the three days, hours
were spent taking pictures
and watching the antics of the
teenage ellies. We learnt that they
are curious creatures — anything
left lying around will be picked
up for examination, as proved to
be the case with an empty coffee
cup, which was swiftly rescued by
one of the staff.
Tsavo is hot and we needed
to find shade in the midday sun,
so we enjoyed some leisurely
lunches followed by a bit of quiet
time during the early afternoon.
This also meant that we were
somewhat refreshed for elephant
bedtime at 5pm when the sun was
beginning to set. Like the dawn
gathering, this allowed enthralling
and fascinating interaction
with the orphans, the Sheldrick
graduates and the visiting wild
elephants too.
SIMON MARSH
BARREN BRUKKAROS
I climbed Brukkaros, the extinct volcano in IlKaras Region,
Namibia, in 2011. The starting point is easily missed. It
is low-key and ‘off the tourist map’, even if it lies close
to some major tourist routes. Without a 4WD, a tent and
sturdy walking shoes, accessing the remnants of a solar
observation post or the canyon rim is difficult. Following
the path back down, we unsuccessfully scanned the
crater floor for signs of game. The hunters must have
cleaned the canyon out. The silence was unnerving.
DR MARTIN BRIGGS
SIMONMARSH
TEDDYMITCHENER/FOTOHOUSE.CO.KE

JOURNAL
READERS SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCES
SLEEPING LIONS
Reader Kevin Isakow
discovers the wonders of
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
My heart is beating so hard and
fast it is difficult for me to hold my
camera steady. We spent an entire
afternoon watching the five lazy
lions, hoping they would reveal
themselves from behind their shady
tree. With minutes to spare before
we had to head back to Polentswa
Tented Camp, a beautiful female lion
and her single cub sauntered out
onto the road. The cub immediately
stole my heart with its innocent and
curious eyes as it rubbed against its
mother affectionately. This is what
I live for. This is the culmination of
a year’s planning. This was by no
means my first lion encounter. I have
visited the famous Kruger National
Park more than 30 times, but there
was something intangible about
seeing lion at Kgalagadi.
The park has a quick and efficient
check-in. Your safety is prioritised:
you must alert reception every
time you enter and exit camp, and
tell them where you are driving.
That way, they know where to
look if you go missing. After a few
days, my wife and I got the hang
of it, enjoying the early morning
chats with people from all over the
world — genuine, down-to-earth,
passionate and knowledgeable
people. It’s refreshing to find a place
where everyone gets a good spot
to view the animals. This courtesy is
often lacking at other parks in Africa.
We rarely had more than two other
vehicles at predator sightings, and
often we were the only ones. Due to
the open terrain, sightings here are
second to none.
Lion had been spotted at
Houmoed earlier in the day and,
sure enough, we found a mating
pair there. In addition, we found the
first of many gemsbok. Even though
they are common, we never tired of
seeing these majestic animals and
thoroughly enjoyed photographing
them on the ridges. The Kgalagadi
terrain makes for beautiful
photographic opportunities and
we soon tested our landscape and
telephoto lenses.
I’m planning my next trip to
Kgalagadi already, perhaps next
time in summer — when apparently
the park becomes alive with colour.
The only word of caution is to stay
somewhere with air-conditioning!
EDITOR’S PICK This Pangolin Armour Ring, from
the new Pangolin Scales range by Patrick Mavros,
combines conservation with style. Ten per
cent of sales are donated to the Tikki Hywood
Trust. £250, patrickmavros.com
SomeoneinAfricaLovesYou
By Alexander Nderitu
The tall blonde girl didn’t come to East Africa on safari,
She was an Oxford student majoring in History
And wanted to see the sites involved in slavery
And the relics of Arab-Portuguese rivalry.
I first spied her walking alone by the swaying sea
And something about her just jumped up and bit me.
I asked her her name and she said,
“Suzanne...with an ‘e’.”
From thence, there was no distance between us;
I took her to see the Gedi Ruins and Fort Jesus
And at night we marvelled at a sky as brilliant as a mirror
And cheered fire-eaters and limbo dancers
With ebony skins that glistened in the moonlight like razors.
Suzanne changed into tropical gear and I braided her hair
And then we danced to the music of
Bob Marley & The Wailers.
Wherever he was, Cupid must have been very happy —
I danced all night with Miss “Suzanne with an ‘e’”.
Suzanne lay on the beach for hours and got a suntan;
I taught her Swahili, she taught me cockney slang.
Wise men say that time and tide wait for no man
And all too soon it was time for Suzanne to return.
Without her, life in the tropics just isn’t the same,
I’m so irritable my fellow beach boys say I’m going insane.
I sent Suzanne an e-mail saying,
“Someone in Africa loves you.”
And she replied saying, “I miss Africa and I miss you.”
It was signed: “Suzanne with an ‘e’”.
Alexander Nderitu represented Kenyan literature in the 2014 Common-
wealth Games in Glasgow, with his poem ‘Someone in Africa Loves You’.
KEVINISAK

WHY VISIT?
Remote and wild, Ruaha National Park is packed
with game and an abundance of birdlife. Diverse
vegetation meets a dramatic topographical
backdrop: endless rolling hills, vast open plains,
secret groves of ancient baobabs and the
Great Ruaha River. The park — the largest in
Tanzania at around 20,000 sq km — supports
one of Africa’s largest elephant populations. It
offers superb, crowd-free wildlife viewing and
is particularly good for spotting predators,
including lion and the endangered wild dog.
WHAT TO SEE?
Scenery The main feature of the park is
the Great Ruaha River, on its southern
border, which attracts hordes of animals
in the dry season.
Wildlife As well as an estimated 15,000
elephant, there are plentiful large prides of lion
and Ruaha is one of the very few places lions
prey on giraffes relatively frequently. Leopard
sightings are frequent and the park is also a
SAFARI PLANNER
Getting there There are daily flights to
Msembe airstrip in Ruaha National park
with Coastal Aviation, from Dar es Salaam/
Zanzibar and Arusha/Serengeti.
When to visit The best time for game
viewing is generally May to November,
although the bush is greener and prettier
from January to June; birding peaks from
December to April.
How long do you need? Allow 3-5 nights.
Ideal in combination with a similar length
stay in Selous Game Reserve.
Accommodation The 12-tent Mdonya
Old River Camp, open June through March;
children age 6 and upwards welcome.
Park fees US$30 per person per day.
birdwatcher’s delight (more than 570 species
have been recorded). Other species commonly
sighted include buffalo, zebra, giraffe, impala,
eland, kudu and crocodile.
Flora The park supports an impressive 1650
plant species. This compares favourably to 830
in Selous and a mere 410 in northeast Serengeti.
WHERE TO STAY?
Despite the vastness of the park, there are only
a handful of camps, which has helped to foster
Ruaha’s reputation as Tanzania’s best-kept
game-viewing secret. Essential Destinations’
Mdonya Old River Camp, set on a 1000m-high
plateau, houses 12 traditional safari tents
spaciously located along the curving banks
of the Mdonya sand-river. Each comes with
a large verandah that is ideal for relaxing
on between activities, or simply for enjoying
the wildlife as it passes by. Game drives are
flexible and afford guests the opportunity to
experience the mosaic of ecosystems to be
found in the park, from the river pools to the
acacia grasslands and forests.
RUAHA NP
KENYA
DaresSalaam
TANZANIA
Ruaha
NP Selous
GameReserve
ArushaSerengeti
NP
Tarangire
NP
Essential Destinations
SPONSORED EDITORIAL
For more information, contact
info@ed.co.tz | safari@coastal.co.tz
www.ed.co.tz | www.coastal.co.tz

BOOK CLUB
Featured book
A Cheetah’s Tale
EXCERPT AND IMAGES USED WITH PERMISSION.
In this extract from her new book, A Cheetah’s
Tale, Her Royal Highness Princess Michael of
Kent discusses how she learned to ‘read’ the
calls of Tess, an orphaned cheetah cub
In the wild, cheetah cubs can
depend on their mother to hunt for
them and to teach them to hunt
from about six months old. But since
Tess had no mother to teach her I was
very surprised when, at 10 months
old, she began chirruping to be let out
at dawn. For the last two months she
had shown signs of wanting to chase
prey — mostly quite unsuitably large —
but at least it showed she was keen to
provide for herself. I began to record
her vocalisations to play to Eduardo
[the local vet] or Benedita in the hope
they could explain them to me.
They told me a great deal, and I
have gleaned more over the years.
Although I had learned to ‘read’ Tess’s
calls, I was unaware of the rest. I knew
that cheetahs did not make sounds
like the lion, leopard or tiger. They
have unique calls for communicating
with their mother, their siblings and
their own cubs. Since they do not live
in social groups, they do not need
as large a vocabulary as lions, but
they have a very distinct language
nonetheless. The first sound I heard
from Tess is known as yipping — a
BRADT IS OFFERING READERS OF TRAVEL AFRICA A SPECIAL 20 PER CENT DISCOUNT ON COPIES OF A CHEETAH’S
TALE BY HER ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCESS MICHAEL OF KENT. TO CLAIM YOUR DISCOUNT, PURCHASE THE BOOK AT
BRADTGUIDES.COM AND ENTER THE CODE TRAVELCHEETAH AT CHECKOUT. OFFER VALID UNTIL 28 FEB 2018.
JOHNSWANNELL
short, high-pitched yelp when she
wanted to know where I was or where
to find her nanny, Ridgeback Daisy.
Had she had siblings, they would
have yipped or ayipped to call
each other. This is the sound I have
described as imitating bird calls
and is also referred to as chirping
or chirruping. I have heard small
cubs use this when faced with an
unfamiliar adult cheetah through
the wire netting of their separate
‘nurseries’ at the Kapama Centre in
South Africa. Adult cheetahs also yip,
and very loudly if afraid.
Then there is the churr, a sort
of stuttering bark cheetahs make
when they meet socially. It is a rather
cosy sound which mothers make to
call their cubs to suckle. At Kapama,
I was once filming the first cub of a
litter to leave its birthing hut and it
approached the wire netting dividing
its nursery from that of a very
pregnant cheetah on the other side.
On seeing the little cub, the pregnant
cheetah churred to show interest
and repeated the sound even more
loudly when the cub’s mother came
out to join them. I have not heard
males churr, but am told they do
it when meeting females, and the
ladies tend to churr when anxious
about males nearby. More serious
is the yowl, which indicates a threat,
a long drawn-out moan to warn of
danger, especially when a predator
approaches a cheetah’s cubs.
Cheetahs also hiss, spit, growl and, of
course, purr.
READER RECOMMENDATION A Guide to Amphibians and
Reptiles of the Maasai Mara by Stephen Spawls comprises natural
history notes about the 64 known reptile and amphibian
species found in the Mara, and 24 species that might occur
there. The book is sponsored by Gamewatchers Safaris and
profits go to the charities the company supports. EDWARD HILL, UK
CHRISTOSCHREIBER
READING THAT’S WORTH SHARING

1THE SHELL TOURIST
TRAVEL AND FIELD GUIDE OF
BOTSWANA
VERONICA ROODT
This is the best guide to
Botswana and includes a
separate, detailed map. It is
packed with useful information
for visitors, whether planning
safaris in the Okavango Delta,
looking for wildlife in the Kalahari
or studying the people and
their history in Gaborone or
Serowe. There are also good
photographic checklists of birds
and animals.
2COLOUR BAR: THE
TRIUMPH OF SERETSE
KHAMA AND HIS NATION
SUSAN WILLIAMS
The story of Seretse
Khama, the man who
became Botswana’s
first president after
independence in 1966.
The book examines
the racist treatment
he received from
the UK government
while studying law in
1950s England, all because
he married a white woman, Ruth
Williams. However, he rose above
all this to become a much-
respected leader of his people.
3CULTURE SMART! A QUICK
GUIDE TO CUSTOMS &
ETIQUETTE: BOTSWANA
MIKE MAIN
Excellent reading for background
information on the Batswana:
greetings, respect (much valued!),
fairness, punctuality (not valued!),
traditions, the importance of
cattle and goats, and much
more. Note, a bride is still worth
about six cows.
4GUIDE TO GREATER
GABORONE
ALEC CAMPBELL AND MIKE MAIN
A very useful guide
to the region
around the capital
city, Gaborone, with
sections on the
geology, the people
and their history as
well as local places of
interest. It’s now a little
out-of-date but still
available and helpful
for those who wish to
explore the culture of this region.
5THE NO. 1 LADIES’
DETECTIVE AGENCY
ALEXANDER MCCALL SMITH
This series of novels
accurately portrays the gentle
character of the country’s
people. Mma Precious
Ramotswe solves problems
and crimes in typical
Batswana fashion by talking
them through. The kindness
displayed in these books is
entirely true to life.
6SEROWE: VILLAGE OF
THE RAIN WIND
BESSIE HEAD
The writer was a white
refugee from South Africa,
having broken the law
against white women
having relationships with
black men. She settled in
Botswana’s second town,
Serowe, in her twenties. In
this book, published in 1981,
she chronicles the words of
nearly a hundred villagers,
revealing a telling picture of
life here.
SIX OF THE BEST BOOKS
ABOUT BOTSWANA
Mike Brogden of Botswana Cultural Holidays recommends
some great reads about this southern African country
4 perspectives
on contemporary Africa
A MOONLESS, STARLESS SKY:
ORDINARY WOMEN AND MEN
FIGHTING EXTREMISM IN AFRICA
ALEXIS OKEOWO
The debut book by this New Yorker
journalist is both sensitive and
powerful. Drawing on stories from
Boko Haram opponents, basketball
players and others, she skilfully
illuminates lives often overlooked by
the rest of the world.
THE NEXT FACTORY OF
THE WORLD: HOW CHINESE
INVESTMENT IS
RESHAPING AFRICA
IRENE YUAN SUN
China is now the
largest trade partner
and source of foreign
direct investment for
Africa. What effect will
this have? Weaving
together stories
of entrepreneurs,
workers and government
officials in Africa, alongside insightful
economic analysis, the writer
attempts to answer this (literal)
million-dollar question.
POSTCOLONIAL AUTOMOBILITY:
CAR CULTURE IN WEST AFRICA
LINDSEY B. GREEN-SIMMS
A combination of history, sociology
and anthropology, this book examines
West Africa through the lens of the
automobile. A unique and accessible
take on contemporary issues, it
promises to be a fascinating read.
WAKE ME WHEN I’M GONE
ODAFE ATOGUN
The second novel by an up-and-
coming Nigerian author, this poignant
work tells the story of Ese, a young
widow. It examines the complex
relationship between tradition and
motherhood, and the challenges
faced by Nigerian women today.
On the coffee table
BEST OF EYES OVER AFRICA
MICHAEL POLIZA
From deserts to cities to grasslands, let your imagination
be captured by some of the world’s most stunning
landscapes seen from the air. This new hardback edition
is both compact and affordable, featuring Poliza’s
famous photographs in a more accessible format.

SPONSORED EDITORIAL
For more information:
www.experiencenortherncape.com
marketing@experiencenortherncape.com
Northerncape northerncapetourism@NorthernCapeSA
Experiences in
THE NORTHERN CAPE
Ranging over 360,000 sq km from the world-renowned Kalahari
Desert to the arid plains of the Karoo, along with its lifeblood, the
2000km-long Orange River, South Africa’s Northern Cape offers
visitors unique adventure experiences. Here’s just a taste…
TAKE
TO THE AIR
Soar above the rugged landscape
of the Northern Cape in a hot air
balloon, taking in the magnificent
Orange River and the Augrabies
Falls — or wherever the wind
may take you. Other air-bound
activities include bridge
swinging, abseiling, paragliding,
microlighting and helicopter trips.
GO ON SAFARI
The Northern Cape boasts several
national parks as well as a host of
nature and private reserves. Highlights
include Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park,
which is home to famed black-maned
Kalahari lions, as well as leopard, cheetah,
mongoose, porcupine and honey badger.
One of the world’s last truly unspoilt
ecosystems, the park, at 38,000 sq km, is
one of the largest conservation areas in
the world. Mokala National Park , which
is the most easily accessible park in the
province, boasts black and white rhino,
giraffe, buffalo, tsessebe, roan antelope,
reedbuck, gemsbok, eland, zebra, red
hartebeest, blue and black wildebeest,
kudu, ostrich, steenbok, duiker and
springbok, to name but a few.
GET OUT ON THE WATER
Whether on a whitewater rafting thrill ride, a more gentle paddle or
just lazily sipping sundowners on a boat cruise, there are many ways
to enjoy the wonders of the Orange River. Rafting and canoe safaris
offer one-to four-day expeditions, with all tastes covered — from mild
to wild. You can even step into the depths for a spot of flyfishing on
the lower Vaal and Riet rivers at Kimberley, which are renowned for
yielding world-class catches of yellowfish in pristine surrounds.
SEE IT ON FOOT
The Northern Cape offers myriad hiking trails, with soul-tugging scenery
across vast expanses of open desert plains or through mazes of rocky
strata in mountains and ravines. For those who prefer to keep their feet
off the ground, why not try a motorbike, quad bike or mountain bike
adventure, or even a horse riding safari. For those with a need for speed,
you can get a real feel for the desert by sandboarding down some dunes,
hiking back up and doing it all over again.

Hiding out at... Hyena Pan!
www.naturalselection.travel | reservations@naturalselection.travel | +27 (0)21 001 1574 or +27 (0)11 326 4407
HYENA PAN – KHWAI PRIVATE RESERVE, OKAVANGO DELTA
HOME TO A NEW UNDERGROUND HIDE, WITH EYE TO EYE GAMEVIEWING.

Portfolio
Octopus
RAINER SCHIMPF, SOUTH AFRICA
“Deep in the underwater recesses of the
Tsitsikamma Marine Protected Area, one finds
an exquisite catalogue of hidden and secret
marine life. This environment and its inhabitants
deserve the ultimate protection by South Africa’s
conservation institutions. The entire ecology of
the area is fragile and the elements living within it
are frequently the target of poachers and marine
strippers who have little regard or conscience
for the permanent damage they do to nature’s
strategies of survival and procreation.”
Canon EOS 5D MkII, 8-15mm f/4 @ 15mm, ISO 400,
aperture f/6.3, shutter speed 1/250s, EV -0.3
Portfolio
From bats to dabchicks, here is
our pick of the most captivating
winning shots from Nature’s Best
Photography Africa Awards 2017
Caught on
camera

RAINER SCHIMPF / NATURE’S BEST PHOTOGRAPHY AFRICA

Angry bat
HENDRIK LOUW, SOUTH AFRICA
“One afternoon, I was scanning through the bushes of Richards Bay
to look for some macro subjects. To my amazement, I found a little
banana bat. To photograph it was going to be extremely difficult
as the space is so limited and you cannot get light into the leaf and
onto your subject. From previous experience, I knew how to set up
from the start: use strong flashes giving light through the leaves,
while hanging onto a ladder. To complicate matters, this little one
was not too eager and showed it right away. I managed to get one
shot, but that was enough!”
Nikon D200, 105mm f/2.8 @ 105mm, ISO 200, aperture f/10,
shutter speed 1/100s, EV -0.3
Portfolio
Cut to the chase
PAUL GOLDSTEIN, UK
“We were in the Olare
Conservancy, which borders
the Mara Reserve. The
quarry was in fairly dense
bushes and unlikely to offer
us an open view of any
action that might occur. So
I concentrated my focus on
a small gap of about 30m
in the foliage, hoping that
the gazelle would choose
this direction as its path of
flight. That is precisely what
it did do when the cheetah
launched its attack, but the
two speedsters covered
the distance so rapidly that
I managed to trigger only
three images with a panning
action as pursuer and
pursued flashed by.”
Canon EOS 1D-X, 500mm
f/4 @ 500mm, ISO 200,
aperture f/7.1, shutter
speed 1/50s, EV 0.0
HENDRIK LOUW / NATURE’S BEST PHOTOGRAPHY AFRICA

Dabchick with fish
PIERRE JORDAAN, SOUTH AFRICA
“The bird hides at Zibulo Colliery in Mpumalanga are ideally situated
for photography. I noticed the dabchick swimming closer to the hide.
Normally they stay submerged for short periods while searching
for food. To my surprise, this one surfaced in front of the hide with
a fish. I managed to capture a couple of images before it eventually
swallowed it. Of the selection, this image, with a glint in the eye of the
bird and the frozen droplets behind its head, was my favourite.”
Canon EOS 5D MkIII, 500mm f/4 + 1.4x Converter @ 700mm, ISO 800,
aperture f/8, shutter speed 1/3200s, EV -0.7
PAUL GOLDSTEIN / NATURE’S BEST PHOTOGRAPHY AFRICA
PIERRE JORDAAN / NATURE’S BEST PHOTOGRAPHY AFRICA

Portfolio
44
Portfolio
Reflections
HANNES LOCHNER, SOUTH AFRICA
“It is normally the big bulls that choose the best spots for
accessing the cleanest and freshest water. On this particular
evening, I tried to capture the reflections of the big bulls at the
waterhole with camera exposures lasting for periods of 30
seconds. I did this by using a bounce flash to fill in the foreground,
while concomitantly capturing the Milky Way by using the long
exposure. Images like this are there to be recorded, provided one
is prepared to look beyond the immediate presence that meets
the eye and then think innovatively ‘out of the box’.”
Nikon D800E, 14-24mm f/2.8 @ 14mm, ISO 3200, aperture f/2.8,
shutter speed 1/30s, EV -0.3

HANNES LOCHNER / NATURE’S BEST PHOTOGRAPHY AFRICA

Portfolio
Mara monster
SUSANNE SCHEUFLER, GERMANY
“The brave mother did her best to protect
her young by lashing at the crocodile with
her hooves, but to no avail. The reptile was of
monster proportions and its rough skin as
resistant as the armour plating on a tank. Tragic
as the moment was, this image of the zebra foal
disappearing down the throat of the crocodile
effectively records the harsh realities of life and
death in nature that live on in the memories of
photographers who are lucky enough to witness
a crossing in the Masai Mara.”
Nikon D810, 500mm f/4 + 1.4x Converter @
700mm, ISO 800, aperture f/10, shutter speed
1/6400s, EV -1.3

SUSANNE SCHEUFLER / NATURE’S BEST PHOTOGRAPHY AFRICA

Portfolio
Flamingo colours
MICHAEL VILJOEN, SOUTH AFRICA
“In this image, taken from the air in northern
Kenya’s Rift Valley, the flamingos’ pink colour
contrasted beautifully with the blue and
yellow hues emerging through the waters
from the bed of the lake where the birds
were searching for food in the shallows.
After being buffeted through scenic flights
like this in 40° heat, one’s immediate world
and memories seem to blend together
in a confusing blur. It is only when one
downloads the images that some fine
and exquisite details emerge which went
unnoticed during the fast-moving flight over
the enchanting landscapes.”
Canon EOS 5D MkIII, 70-200mm f/2.8 @
160mm, ISO 800, aperture f/4.5, shutter
speed 1/6400s, EV -1.0
MICHAELVILJOEN/NAUTRE’SBESTPHOTOGRAPHYAFRICA

The photographs in this portfolio were all taken from Nature’s Best Photography Africa
2017 contest. If you are interested in taking part in the 2018 competition, entries open on
1 April and close on 31 May, with the awards being presented in November. Please visit
naturesbestphotographyafrica.com for further details.

The Premier Annual African Nature focused Photographic Competition in the World
Competition Opens Monday 02 April 2018 & Closes Thursday 31 May 2018
Enter Online at www.nbpa.co.za
For more information contact info@nbpa.co.za or 060 SAFARIS (723 2747)
In Association With
Iziko Museums of South Africa and Nature’s Best Photography (Global)
13 Exciting Categories Exceptional Catalogue Easy Online Entry
Expert Judging Platform Exciting African Safari Prizes to be Won!!
Only Photographs taken in Africa
Proudly Sponsored By
Callout to all Photographers
A Novus Holdings company

PURSUING THE OPPORTUNITY
For most of September the greatest
concentration of wildebeest was in the central
and southern part of the Greater Mara. We
had heard of an unsual coalition of five male
cheetahs operating together, knowing they
would need to kill every day and would need
to focus on larger prey than usual, such as
wildebeest or topi calves.
Even with the help of the Cheetah Research
Group, we searched for them in vain on a few
occasions. Then our luck turned. The five crossed
the Talek River, going north. Now they were closer
to our base and I planned the best route to get
to them early in the morning, before they killed.
Within five minutes of finding them, the hunt
started. Three were laying flat behind a termite
mount and the other two were out of sight when
the trap was set. A large group of very nervous
wildebeest slowly moved closer to the three that
I could see — and then all hell broke loose.
Wildebeest started running in all directions
and I noticed that one of the cheetahs behind
the termite mount had gone and the remaining
two were anxiously looking in the direction of a
chaotic bowl of dust.
CAPTURING THE IMAGE
It was time to go. As we rushed over the short
grass plains I kept telling my guide to keep us
on the side of a glorious early sunrise. With the
dust settling in the background, four cheetah
struggling to bring the wildebeest calf down and
the four CNP photographers with me firing flat
out, I made a crucial decision to move the vehicle.
Although our vehicle was well placed, we
were shooting too much to the shadow side
of the drama unfolding in front of us. It was
time to go again. We were now the only vehicle
positioned with the early sun behind us and
ready to record any detail available in the eyes of
the cheetah or the wildebeest calf.
The fifth cheetah now joined the hunt and, to
my surprise, they were really struggling to bring
the wildebeest calf down. Three of the cheetahs
had a powerful grip on the neck and back of the
calf and eventually forced it to its knees.
Finally, as pictured above, the brave calf
succumbed and four of the five cheetahs could
finally relax their grip, while the fifth kept his grip
on the calf’s throat.
Many photographers may have stuck with
their original location, anxious not to lose any
time. But, by deciding to move to a position
where the sun was more directly behind us,
we were able to capture so much more detail
in the cats, particularly in their eyes — and
the photographs were greatly improved as
a result.
SPONSORED EDITORIAL
PHOTOSCHOOLI
The power of fiveIn the thick of the action, the decisions you make affect your final shot, says Lou Coetzer.
PHOTOSCHOO
L
TRAVELAFRICA
The image was shot with a Nikon D500 with a Sigma 120-300mm F2.8
with 1.4x Converter/f13 @ 1/2500sec / ISO 800 / EV-1.3
Acclaimed wildlife photographer Lou Coetzer is the founder of CNP Safaris, which operates
photographic safaris to Africa’s premier wildlife locations. Lou’s pioneering design of 360º revolving
chairs and dedicated boats and vehicles, technical expertise and provision of equipment means
CNP’s safaris are suited for anyone interested in taking better photographs, regardless of existing
skills. CNP Safaris also operates a mentorship programme to support your photography at home.
For information on trips, the mentorship programme, blogs
and galleries visit cnpsafaris.com, or say hello on
lou@cnpsafaris.com or phone +27 82 770 9403

SouthAfrica

MIKE DEXTER
Nick Dall sets out in South Africa’s Mountain Zebra National
Park to search for the world’s fastest feline, and learn about its
behaviour and interaction with its cousin the lion

SouthAfrica
SPEED OF LIGHT: The cheetah’s anatomy has evolved to a point where it can accelerate from zero to 100km per hour in less than three seconds. OPPOSITE: Radio collars play a vital
role in the conservation of cheetah at Mountain Zebra National Park, allowing rangers and scientists to track them, monitor them and keep them safe
I
’m breathless and starting to sweat, despite the Karoo
morning chill. Two Austrian tourists and I have spent the last
hour clambering up and down the steep, scrabbly slopes of
Saltpeterskop in South Africa’s Mountain Zebra National Park
(MZNP) in search of a collared cheetah. Up ahead — rifle in
one hand, antenna in the other — field guide Dan van de Vyver
is trying his damnedest to find her, but the topography is wreaking
havoc with his radio signal. Every time the beeps seem to be getting
stronger, they fade away just as quickly.
Just when I’m starting to wonder whether we’ll ever find her, one
of the Austrians spots her round ears poking out from behind some
grass. We marvel at her from a distance of no more than 10m. At
first she just lies there, but after a while she rolls over, stands up and
arches her back before walking off into the rocks, never to be seen
again. “They like to rest somewhere high, where they can see the
lay of the land,” whispers Dan. “She’s probably going down to the
plains to hunt now.”
Traditionally, radio-tracking big cats has been reserved for bearded
PhD students and celebrities such as David Attenborough and Bear
Grylls. But now tourists, too, can experience the thrill of searching
for a wild cheetah on foot. By the time you report at reception, your
guide will already have downloaded the cheetah’s approximate GPS
coordinates from a satellite, which helps to assist the quest. You’ll
be driven towards the cheetah in an open Land Rover until the road
runs out (often accessing parts of the park that are off limits to other
visitors), before continuing the search on foot.
The excursion gives ordinary people a chance to experience
what cheetah are really like and how they behave. “You’re following
the world’s fastest animal in its natural environment, so nothing is
guaranteed,” says Dan. If the cheetah you track happens to be hunting
or nursing cubs, you might only glimpse it from afar or you may even
draw a complete blank. That’s just how nature works.
That said, there’s no such thing as a bad day when you’re hiking in
the African wilderness with an extremely knowledgeable ranger. At
one point, we stopped to admire a majestic martial eagle; at another,
we were given an impromptu lesson on the family structure of the
Cape ground squirrel. Dan even threw in a bit of Anglo-Boer War
history. Over the years, I’ve been lucky enough to spend plenty of time
doing amazing things in game reserves all over Africa, but I’ve never
had an experience quite like this.
There are quite a few places in South Africa where you can
walk with a semi-wild cheetah or even pet a completely tame
one. This is not one of those places. MZNP’s cheetah are totally
wild and their survival depends on two things: killing enough
SouthAfrica

Cheetah
threats
THE RECENT DECLINE IN NUMBERS HAS CAUSED SCIENTISTS TO CALL FOR THE CHEETAH TO BE UP-
LISTED FROM VULNERABLE TO ENDANGERED ON THE IUCN RED LIST OF THREATENED SPECIES.
Radio collars have been
fitted on four of the Mount
Zebra National Park’s cheetah
and two of the park’s
lions. The batteries on the
cheetahs’ collars last about
18 months (lions have bigger
collars with longer-lasting
batteries) and the collars
cost about £3000 to replace
Habitat loss and
fragmentation
Persecution and
retaliatory killing
by livestock owners
Loss of prey due
to over-hunting by
people
Illegal trade in
cheetah as exotic
pets, particularly
cubs
Illegal poaching
and trafficking of
cheetah skins and
body parts
Deaths by
vehicles on
roads
Leastconcern Nearthreatened Vulnerable Endangered Critical Extinctinwild Extinct
Consult the map
The cheetah has been driven out of 91 per cent of
its historic range in Africa and Asia.
Historic Range
Current Range
79%of all cheetah
populations contain
100 or fewer
individuals.
200
The Saharan cheetah is
critically endangered,
with fewer than 200
individuals remaining.
6More than half
of the world’s
cheetah live
in one population
stretching across
six countries.
50Fewer than
50 critically
endangered Asiatic
cheetah have
survived, all in Iran.
ERIC REISINGER

Reading Comprehension January 2018 - Travel

Reading Comprehension January 2018 - Travel

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