1. Presentation On:
“ Dry Finishing On Denim ”
Course: Industrial Garments Wash
Code: GMT 127
Date of Submission: 07-07-2014

2. Submitted to
Engr. Chanchal Kumar Kundu
B.Sc. (Textile tech), CTT, DU, BUTex
M.Sc (Textile Mgt.), M.Sc (Textile tech) UB, Sweden
Senior Assistant Professor
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology
BUFT

3. Submitted By:
Fahad Islam
121-244-0-45
Batch: 121
Section : AMT-2
Dept. of Apparel Manufacturing and Technology
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology

4. Acknowledgement
We are thankful to these following persons for their kind help to make our
assignment successfully by providing us information to sample.
1) Kumar Debnath Sajol
Director (Marketing)
Asian Global Sourcing Ltd. (AGS)
 Kumar@Asianglobalbd.Net
H# 2/A, 3rd Floor, Rd# 2/B, Sonargaon Janapath Road
Sec# 11, Uttara, Dhaka-1230
2) Mohammad Abdus Salam
Merchandiser
Update Group
 Abdussalam@Updategroupbd.Com
Tower Hamlet (10th Floor)
16, Kamal Ataturk Avenue
Banani, Dhaka

5. Introduction
 Garment finishing is one the process applied on
garment in order to get a desired look or appearance of
the garment, with the introduction of new technologies
and equipment it has been fairly easy to obtain desired
shades and results.
 For finishing of denim fabrics, a range of techniques are
used. They all are projected at new possible effects of
fabric appearance, namely mill wash or rinse wash,
moon wash, over dyed-look, stone wash , sand wash
,bleach, damaged-look, scrubbed look , sand-blast, PP
spray , whisker Effect , 3D effects and etc.
 Especially, the dry finishing creates many effects on
denim fabric, it stimulates the customers to buy and also
enhances the market potential of the denim market.
 We can say that dry finishing has taken denim to the
next level, the next generation denim.

6. Denim:
 Denim has always been on everyone’s wish
list, especially faded.
 Because of its toughness, style and less care
required. Also, now a days governed by the
shades or finishes offered by different buyers.
 As a result a lot of effort is being put to cater
with different shades with less hazardous
techniques employed and high productivity.

7. Denim

8. Dry Finishing:
 The distressed denim that we see around
everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as well as
dry treatments to get the desired effects.
 Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a
technique. The direction in fashion is varied across all
areas particularly in denim dry finishing, whether
worn or torn to wrinkled or pressed, these trends can
appeal to a wide range of consumers.
 These can be achieved by variety of denim dry
processing technique, which are mainly dependent
on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface
dye there by producing different wash-down looks to
the denim fabrics.

9. Types
 HAND BRUSH
 WHISKER
 3D WHISKER
 CRINKLE
 3D WRINKLE
 CHEVRON
 PATCH GRINDING
 RESIN
 HEM GRINDING
 TACKING
 NICKING
 PP SPRAY
 LASER FADDING
CURING

10. Hand Scraping:
 Hand scraping is step which is generally being done in rigid form of
garments to get distress look. Location can be front thigh & back
seat or it can be overall / global application as per standard. Emery
paper (silicon) is being used to scrap the garments in particular
placement. Emery paper comes in different number generally starts
from 40 till 600 and above, higher the number finer the emery paper,
lower the coarseness of the paper.
 In garment industry from 220, 320 & 400 number papers are most
popular & widely used. Purpose of doing this process is make used
worn out look to the garments. The most important factor is to select
right number of paper according to the fabric strength & intensity
need. Feathering /merging white sanded part to dark blue area in
such way that it should look natural & not artificial.
 Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect
(horizontal or vertical it’s up to operator’s convenience), even it can
be done on plain wooden board of garment size & hand pressure
should be uniform in order to get better results.

11. Hand Scraping

12. PP spray (KMnO4) :
 Potassium permanganate spray is done on denim to take a bright
effect on sand blast area. One important thing about the
potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting
process to increase the effect of sand blast.
 Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on the blasted area
of denim garment with the help of a normal spray gun. This
potassium permanganate spray appears pink on the garment
when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying.
 The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium
permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate
turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for the
next process. It is always followed by neutralization process.
 Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A
number of products are available in the market for the
neutralization process like sodium meta bi-sulphate selected on
the bases of effect required on blasted area.

13. PP Spray
Garments are mounted on air filled rubber dummies and
chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in
spray process are as follow:
 Distance of spray gun to garment- less distance will
give more defined and sharp effect where as distant
spray will result to more mild and merged effect.
Distance ranges from one foot to two and a half foot.
 Air to Water Ratio of Gun- this is to be set very
carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through
PP drops on garment resulting too bright white spots
whereas high pressure will produce very low bright effect
spray effect to areas where it is not required.
 Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration- of
course, this will control the extent to brightness.

14. PP Spray

15. PP Spray

16. WHISKER
Whiskers are one of the most important designs of a used look garment. The
idea of whiskers is taken from the worn out lines and impression patterns
generated by natural wearing on hips and front thigh area. On old denim, a
number of patterns can be find consequential to fabric, body shape of user or
sitting posture.
Methods:
 Various methods are designed to create this impression on denim. Mostly
rubber balloons are available with different pattern designs. Garments are
mounted on balloons and filled with air to get impressions of
whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over pattern carefully with sand paper on
engraved pattern lines.
 This operation requires high skilled labor and who can handle uniformity
and sequence in whisker line. Fabric may damage during rubbing if care
is not taken. But this method is more successful in industries where
the production is consistent to articles i.e. similar articles are produced in
large quantities. This method is famous for high quality and cost
effectiveness.

17. WHISKER
 Sometimes separate patterns are made and fixed on balloons to
make mustaches. These patterns are made of thin rubber sheets
and electric wires or rubber cords and pasted on balloons for
pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to work in that way
but it is not much successful for broad lines.
 Engraved patterns on thick board like hard rubber sheets are
widely used for whiskers impression making. This idea is very
simple to draw lines on rubber sheets and engrave them with
blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on specific area
to draw this impression on garment. For its low cost patterns, it is
most frequently used in small industries especially where
the production is not consistent to style.
 In some workshops it is done manually with the help of sharp
edge rolled on fine wood sticks of pasted on plastic material.
Before starting execution, placement and pattern must be marked
on garment, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to
match the aesthetics of garment.

18. WHISKER

19. WHISKER

20. Destroy:
 One of the most popular distressing effects
currently, ‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim
look unique & used.
 To make destruction pen type of stone tools being
used in mid of wash process to apply on desired
area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife
the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show
white thread.
 Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp
yarns. These are all manual processes & every
garment will look unique & different than others.

21. Destroy

22. Destroy

23. Grinding
 Grinding is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems
edges by running against abrasion surface or stone to
achieve worn out effect.
 Many different make of machines & pen grinding tools
are available in the market which runs with pneumatic
system.
 Grinding is done of garments by pen type of stone tools.
It can be done in mid of the wash process. In many
workshops it is done before any wash process as a first
process after stitching.
 Stone tools similar to grinders used in wood and stone
industry are utilized to work on garments with a few
amendments to their design.

24. Grinding

25. Grinding

26. CHEVRON
 On denim, chevrons are nothing but the worn out
lines /impression generated by natural wearing on hip
& thigh area. There are many designs &pattern
available. This is being done manually with help of
sharp edge emery paper roller on fine wood stick or
pasted on plastic material.
 Before starting execution placements & pattern must
be marked on garments, this will help operator to
execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of
garment. A chevron effect on Denim .
 This operation is carried out in width direction hence it
appears intense than hand sand with less strokes,
because hand sand is carried out in length direction.

27. CHEVRON

28. TACKING
 Tacking or more commonly tag pinning is a very in fashion style in
denim garment in these days. In this process the effect is created
by swift tag machines with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in
rigid form of garment to get contrast.
 Usually tag pin machines are used to attach tag pins to garment.
The procedure is very simple and proceeds as; garment is folded
on required area and tacked through folds. Number of folds can
be two to four or five in regular in tacking. These tag guns are not
especially designed for heavy folds like we do in tacking so
durability of the gun is a consistent problem.
 Also broken needles of tag gun are issue for both operator and
consumer. Automated tacking machines are used more
successfully in some units. These machines are bit expensive but
are far more efficient and secure than tag guns.

29. TACKING
 Garment is folded on specified areas and the fold is locked by tag
pins. Now the garment is processed in washer and a permanent fold
appears after removal of tag pin. This is important that tag pin is
removed when the garment is dried completely.
 The inner of the fold is dark in shade due to less exposure to
mechanical rubbing and chemicals. Variation is provided by using
different lengths of tag pins varying from 05 mm to 15 mm. This range
of length is more commonly used in industry.
Area of Application
 This effect can be designed anywhere on the garment in different
styles. Most favorite areas for tacking are on waistband, bottom hems,
back pocket and front pocket corners etc.
 On front or back sides of garment, tacking can also
designed horizontal of vertical patterns on full length panel.

30. TACKING

31. SAND BLASTING
 Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by
blowing high speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand.
This is a very successful and most widely used process for
fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is
blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the
affect appears is very similar to the worn out denim.
 Sandblasting has become the key method for finishing most
modern denim requiring that ‘worn-out’ look. Under the
sandblasting process the denim is smoothed, shaped and
cleaned by forcing abrasive particles across it at high speeds.
The process is fast and cheap and demand for pre-worn denim
has led to a massive rise in its use. But this fashion comes at a
price: the health and even the lives of sandblasting workers.
 A single worker can produce between 20 and 30 pieces per hour
hand-sanding while with manual sandblasting he could make
between 35 and 60 pieces.

32. SAND BLASTING
 Sand blast provides a very uniform result which cannot be
achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect
that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with
natural effect. Sand Blasting Effects on Denim High pressure of
air produces a powerful backward thrust to operator so it is
always recommended to fix the gun in appropriate stands rather
than placing it on shoulders or using it with bare hands.
 On some fabrics sand blasting is not successful for it covers the
characteristics of fabric. Especially in fabrics which are famous
for Slub patterns it flattens the look. Specified areas for sand
blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or
front panel around knee.
 Sometime full body blasting is also done for giving a unique
look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on
front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas.

33. SAND BLASTING

34. Resin Application (3D Effect)
 Resin (Formaldehyde free) being used for achieving
3D effect (3 Dimensional), Rigid Look etc. This
process can be done by spraying or dipping the
garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution
in right combination according to the fabric strength &
desired effect needed.
 After application of resin solution in right proportion,
make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip &
back knee area to get 3Dimentional effect. After
making it , it should be manually dried with hot press
or hair dryer & then must be cured in oven at right
temperature, time as mentioned in resin product
manual.

35. 3D Effect

36. 3D Effect

37. LASER TECHNOLOGY
 It is a computer controlled process for denim fading. This technique
enables patterns to be created such as lines and/or dots, images, text or
even pictures. It is water free fading of denim. Being an automatic system,
chances of human error are slim. Also called spray painting in denims.
This technique has relatively high cost
Replacing Traditional Technique for Denim Finishes
 The laser technology is the fastest growing technique presented by many
companies as a perfect replacement for traditional methods of sandblasting,
stone washing, burning, etc. and much more that the industry has yet not
seen. The success of the technology is based on the fact that Indigo today is
a synthetically produced vat dye that is bound to the fabric by mechanical
forces rather than chemical and unlike other vat dyes, Indigo has very little
affinity to cotton making it suitable for washed down treatments.
 The various laser techniques available in the industry are considered a much
safer, environment friendly, economical and superior technology that has
advantages that offers not only aesthetic variation but also gives freedom to
designers to innovate at quick speed saving critical commercial time in
product development and crucial cost during production. According to experts
the technologies on offer increase output per workstation by almost 500 %
while reducing loss of fabric strength by 50%.

38. LASER TECHNOLOGY
 Another advantage that is interesting for users is the significant
elimination of environmental problems associated by previous abrasive
processes while having the ability to replicate an exact abrasion pattern
on all units besides infinite flexibility to create different ‘worn look’
designs otherwise impossible. The health benefits cannot be undermined
as processes like hand sanding generate tremendous amount of dust
that can be detrimental to workers health.
 Wastages in processes like stone washing where considerable wear and
tear on machine and excessive water is normal are also significantly
reduced, as there is no wear and tear and zero water application. In fact
the industrial design and in built cooling system allows the machine to
run continuously for hours and requires minimal maintenance.
 Not only can denim be laser engraved, but pile fabrics as well. The laser
burns away the pile in selected areas leaving a permanent design that
closely mimics and embossed pattern. 100% cotton corduroy and velvet
can be laser engraved to produce an impressive permanent design
without the use of resins

39. LASER TECHNOLOGY

40. LASERTECHNOLOGY

41. JEANOLOGIA
 The textile laser and the eco-washing machine G2 was
shown at ITMA Barcelona. This new technology makes
possible savings of 62% of power, 67% of water and 85% of
chemical products and 55% of time in denim finishing
Jeanologia company presented latest innovations for Denim
finishing, under the slogan of 3E (Ecology, Efficiency and
Ethics), that allows to get greater energy, water, chemical
sand time savings. Jeanologia has long been a pioneer in
the development of textile laser which has avoided the use of
unhealthy techniques and has reduced the energy
consumption and the pollution
 The new laser technology will allow greater production
compared with other ways of jean finishing such as manual
scraping, spray or sandblasting. Laser offers high levels of
productions.
New technology for denim finishing, faster and with less
energetic consumption

42. JEANOLOGIA
 As well as laser, Jeanologia has
G2Technology, an eco-washing
machine that works only with
active oxygen and ozone, allowing
wash denim and shirts with
vintage finishing, without using
water or chemicals.
 With laser technology 100 or 200
of denim can be produced per
hour, while manual scraping
produces only 10 units per hour,
sandblasting 30 and spray 60.
Specifically, the G2 technology
allows to save per garment a 62%
of Kw/h, a 67% of water (liters),
an 85% of chemical, as well as a
55% of production time.

43. Conclusion
 The scope of denim dry finishing is very broad. Only innovative
products will be able to open up new markets and new horizons for
denim industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in further
research and development.
 Every industry should now produce products that are best in terms of
quality and price. Customers today have a wide range of choices and
the one who produces the best quality at a high competitive price will
survive and prosper.
 The driving force for change in denim dry finishes is the need for a
competitive strategy by cost conscious finisher to add the value.
Compatibility is essential to provide short multifunctional finishes that
can be applied simultaneously.
 Innovative and enhanced results are possible through application of
various types of denim finishing, which in turn would bring greater
financial profits. To achieve this, the garment manufacturers are
required to develop a futuristic vision and take appropriate measures
to overcome the problems of denim processing.

44. Thank You