2. PATTERN MAKING
Pattern making is an
art. It is the art of
manipulating and
shaping a flat piece of
fabric to conform to
one or more curves of
the human figure .
Pattern making is a
bridge function
between design and
production.
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3. PATTERN MAKING
A sketch can be turned
into a garment via a
pattern which interprets
the design in the form
of the garment
components (Cooklin).
Now a day’s
sophisticated software
programs are used
for pattern making.
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4. BASICS OF PATTERN MAKING
A pattern is flat while the
body is not. The body has
height, width and depth.
Darts are the basis of all
pattern making. They
convert the flat piece of
cloth into a three
dimensional form, which fits
the bulges of the body.
A patternmaker typically
makes a pattern from a flat
sketch with measurements
or a two dimensional
fashion illustration.
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5. BASICS OF PATTERN MAKING
The basic pattern is the
very foundation upon
which pattern making, fit
and design are based.
The basic pattern is the
starting point for flat
pattern designing.
It is a simple pattern that
fits the body with just
enough ease for
movement and comfort
(Shoben and Ward).
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6. HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING
Prior to the Industrial Revolution the art of
patternmaking was highly revered.
Tailors meticulously worked with their client's
personal measurements to customize patterns
Clothing made by tailors was elaborate and
relegated only to the very rich.
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7. HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING
With the onset of the Industrial Revolution,
standardized patterns were essential to the success
of ready-to-wear clothing.
Initial attempts to create standardized patterns
resulted in poorly fitting garments with little detail.
After lengthy experimentation and standardized
sizing, patternmaking made a triumphant
transformation from customization to
standardization.
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8. HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING
Computers have been used by apparel companies
since the early 1980's.
Pattern Design Systems (PDS) have become
invaluable tools to the patternmaker, assisting in
much of the repetitive tasks associated with
patternmaking.
PDS systems are capable of storing an incredible
amount of data that can be quickly retrieved,
tweaked and re-filed.
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9. HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING
Using a mouse or stylus, patternmakers are able to
swiftly add style details and make changes.
There are many benefits to PDS - speed, accuracy
and ease of data transmission being some of the
most obvious.
In today's competitive environment, software
companies are zeroing in on the growing demands
of the apparel manufacturer.
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10. HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING
Current research focuses
on generating patterns
that produce better fitting
garments and 3D
visualization tools to help
fine tune style.
With on
going technological
advances and diligent
research, patternmaking
software companies
continue to successfully
address the needs of
their customers.
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11. Apparel Design and Product Development professionals
design sportswear, suits, dresses, coats, accessories,
and just about everything else that people wear.
Designers research color and style trends to create
concepts and sketches for fashions one to two years in
advance of the market. Some create new garment styles
while others adapt styles from a previous season.
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12. Lectra was born in the fashion industry forty years
ago and understands the complexity of both daily
management and the operational change needed to
develop apparel while remaining competitive. Four
decades of pioneering technology have shaped our
design, development, and production solutions to
meet 21st-century challenges
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13. GERBER CAD SOFTWARE
(ACCUMARK FAMILY)
AccuMark software contains the most
comprehensive set of pattern development tools in
the industry, along with many other features to meet
the fast-changing needs of today's manufacturers.
It’s the standard for pattern design, grading and
marker making.
Vstitcher™ is the most powerful 3D design and
visualization software accelerating the entire
product development life-cycle; it interfaces
seamlessly with AccuMark, enabling a fast and
easy transformation of 2D patterns into 3D
garments. 13
14. AccuNest creates new, efficient marker layouts
automatically, analyzing multiple solutions and
selecting the marker with the best material
utilization. AccuNest is easy to operate and is
substantially faster and more efficient than manual
marker making, enabling you to save time and
money when making sample, costing and
production markers.
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15. From first creative spark to final product, Lectra has
powerful solutions to address the entire fashion
product lifecycle. From fast fashion to luxury to
ready-to-wear, Lectra’s customers in markets as
varied as casual, sportswear, outdoor, denim, and
lingerie represent diverse development and
sourcing models.
Beyond suppliers and manufacturers, they are the
brands. you love and the stores where you shop.
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16. Pattern makers make designs a reality by working
out proportions and exact details of style for
production. Apparel design includes specializations
in active sportswear, protective clothing for industry,
functional apparel for people with physically
challenging conditions and costuming for the
theater. All of these careers are open to talented
men and women with degrees in Apparel Design
from OSU
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17. Pattern making includes stills in pattern adaptation
and pattern drafting. Pattern drafting requires a
pattern block or working drawing to be established
by using key measurements and using these to
develop a pattern which interprets a garments
or items design including its special features.
Patterns are tested using toiles and mock-ups to
ensure that pattern pieces correctly interpret a
design and its special features.
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18. Initially students learn how to select and adapt
existing patterns to enable a garment to correctly fit
for the body or an item to meet desired size and fit
specifications. This should progress to students
learning how to draft patterns and test these
using toiles and mock-ups to ensure the final
pattern correctly interprets a design and its special
features. Students also learn how to develop a
pattern guide sheet that incorporates appropriate
language, symbols and/or diagrams to:
communicate pattern layout, and the step by step
instructions required to construct a garment or item. 18
19. BASIC TOOLS FOR APPAREL
PATTERNMAKING
Having the right tools for making a pattern is a
super important place to start. Luckily, most tools
are not expensive and are easy to get.
Here’s the quick list.
1) Large scale paper
2) Clear Gridded Ruler
3) Flexible Design Rule
4) Hip/Arm Curve (Styling Design Ruler)
5) Pencil and a good Eraser
6) Large pins
7) Cork panels
8) Flexible Measuring Tape
9) Basic sewing book 19
20. EXAMPLE :
Drafting of a basic skirt
pattern.
Measurements:
Waistline: 72cm + 4%ease
Hips:98 cm + 4%ease
Skirt length : 60cm
Waist to hips : 21
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21. Drafting of a basic
pattern
Draw a vertical line
with
Waist(1), Hips(2), Skirt
length(3)
2-4, 1-5, 3-6 ½ hips
girth
Draw a vertical line in
the middle of
horizontal lines to
obtain 7,8,9.
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22. 1-10= ¼ waistline + 2.5 cm
5-11= ¼ waistline + 3.5 cm
3cm to the left and right of 9
is 12 and 13.
Draw lines from 12 and 13
to 8.
Draw suitable curves from
10 and 11 to 8.
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23. Drafting darts:
Front dart:2.5 cm
Back dart :3.5 cm
1-14= (1-10) X 2/3
5-16=(5-11) X ½ 14 and 16
are in the middle of the
darts.
14-15= 7-8 cm
16-17= 12-14
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24. PATTERN MAKING IN TODAY’S WORLD
Pattern making today
has become an easy job
with the use of the
computers.
Now-a-days different soft
wares are available in the
market to meet the needs
of the manufacturers.
The different soft wares
used are Gerber, Lectra,
Tukatech , OptiTex etc.
These softwares has
made the job of the
Pattern master easier.
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25. PATTERN MAKING IN TODAY’S WORLD
They have made the
process of pattern
making more economical
and less time consuming.
Pattern-making soft
wares enables you to
input your measurements
and draft out a pattern.
These soft wares draft
patterns to fit your
measurements
specifically, eliminating
much fitting trial and error
in the sewing room.
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26. PATTERN MAKING IN TODAY’S WORLD
A pattern can be made from a
3D form in just a few steps by
using these soft wares. An
individual's measurements
are collected from 3D body
scanner. The measurements
are used to create a virtual
3D model of the individual's
body.
The 3D to 2D software allows
the user to define a garment
surface in relation to the 3D
body model. Once the
garment surface is defined,
the application automatically
unwraps and outputs a 2D
flat pattern in .dxf format.
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27. REFERENCES
Aldrich, Winifred. 1997, Metric Pattern Cutting.
Blackwell Science Ltd U.K.
Armstrong H.J, 2000, Pattern Making for Fashion
Design, Harper & row publishers, New York
Cooklin, G.1994, Pattern Cutting for Womens Outerwear
Hudson, P.B, 1980, The role of fit and Fashion on
Apparel Quality, Bobbin.
Shoben, M.M and J.P. Ward, 1999, Pattern cutting and
Making up, CBS Publishers, New Delhi
Helen Stanley, 1991, Flat pattern cutting & modeling for
fashion, U.K
Prof.Dr. Gülseren Kurumer,Konfeksiyon Üretimi ve
Teknolojisi, 2012. 27
