1. Lecture ThreeThe Modern Movement and its impact on fashion Art Nouveau 1890-1910 Cubism c.1909 Ballets Russes 1909 - 1929 The Modern Movement Futurism 1909 – 1916 Dada 1916 – 1921 Art Deco 1910 – 1939 Constructivism 1917 – c.1930 The Bauhaus 1919 - 1933 Surrealism 1924 – 1929 and beyond

2. 2 Ballets Russes 1909 – 1929 Founded by Sergei Diaghilev – impresario: art exhibitions, opera, ballet etc. Emphasis on colour and exoticism, rather than the romantic tradition Star and lead dancer (also choreographer) Vaslav Nijinsky Sets and costumes by Leon Bakst Diaghilev expert at involving other great creatives at the time (Chanel designed costumes; Picasso, artwork for programmes; Cocteau wrote scenarios etc) Last performance in 1929, Diaghilev died later that year. Paul Poiret 1879 – 1944 Opened his own couture house in 1903 Rose to fame under the influence of the avant garde art of the time, as well as the Ballets Russes; Emphasis on loose clothing, simple lines, strong colours, orientalism (collected ethnological textiles) A heavy self-promoter, theatrical in spirit – he designed for impact Designed the ‘hobble skirt’, ungainly but influential 1909-1914 Allegedly: freed women from corsets; first couturier to launch a perfume

3. Ballets Russes, Vaslav Nijinsky in Scheherazade, 1910, costumes by Leon Bakst

4. Designs influenced by Bakst and the Russian ballet, 1914 (‘Salome’ by Paul Poiret, on the left)

5. 3 Art Deco1910 – 1939 Similar to Art Nouveau in that it is a highly decorative, international movement. But line, pattern, shape and form are heavily stylised and sculptural; Favoured motifs: fan motifs, geometric fan motifs, zig-zags, sunbursts. Emphasis on exoticism, strong colours, sophisticated taste. Brought glamour and opulence to architecture and interiors. (The Discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 brought a craze for Egyptian-style designs and antique colours eg. gold, turquoise and so on) Sonia Delaunay Vibrant, artistic use of colour: paintings, graphics, stage designs, fashions Coco Chanel Introduced chic daywear, classic two-piece suits, flamboyant costume jewelry, ‘the little black dress’, and menswear for women (trousers, blazers, etc). Emphasis on youth and elegance. First couturier to place her name on a perfume (and designed the bottle).

6. Young Woman in Green, portrait by Tamara de Lempicka, 1927

7. Normandie, 1935A. M. Cassandre

8. Left: Radiator grille, entrance lobby of Chanin building NYC 1929Right: ‘Sight’ and ‘Sound’ reliefs, Warner West End, Leicester Square, London 1938

9. Dressing gown made of a fabric designed by Sonia Delaunay, 1926

10. Gouache design on paper, 1935 – Sonia Delaunay

11. Sports coat and its material, 1926By Sonia Delaunay

12. 4 Constructivism 1917 – c.1930 1917 Russian Revolution (October Revolution) – V.I.Lenin emerges as Leader. Constructivists: founders Vladimir Tatlin, Alexander Rodchenko, plus other artists – El Lissitzky, Varvara Stepanova, Ljubov Popova and more. Rejected ‘Art for Art’s Sake’ and used their artistic skills to create products and imagery for the good of society – thus building or ‘constructing’ the new Soviet future, while also redefining the role of the artist. 1917 – late 1920s: an intense period of prolific work for the avant garde artists. 1924 – Lenin dies. By the 1930s, Socialist Realism was favoured; in 1932 Stalin outlawed abstract art and design. Varvara Stepanova 1894 – 1958 Sportswear design, textile (pattern) design, graphics, theatre design Alexandra Exter 1882 – 1949 Painting, stage and costume design, also decorating ‘agit-trains’ with her pupils. Designed costumes for ‘Aelita’, first Russian science fiction film.

13. Below: Varvara Stepanova, Ljubov PopovaRight: Alexander Rodchenko

14. Poster by Rodchenko for the Leningrad State Publishers, 1925‘Lengiz – BOOKS – in all branches of knowledge’

15. Costume sketch No. 7, 1921 – Ljubov Popova

16. Designs for sportswear by Stepanova (left) and logo designs by Rodchenko (right), c.1917

17. The Female PyramidPhotograph byAlexander Rodchenko,1936

18. Textile design, 1924 – Varvara Stepanova

19. Water sports, textile design, late 1920s

20. Tractors, textile design, 1930

21. Red Army soldiers help with the cotton harvest, textile design, 1932

22. Untitled fabric design, 1932/4

23. The Turkish Siberian Railway, textile design, 1930s

24. Poster for the film ‘Man with a Movie Camera’, 1929 – The Stenberg Brothers

25. 5 Surrealism 1924 – 1929 and beyond Founded in Paris by Andre Breton; emerged from Dadaism. Attracted to the theories of the psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud, and consequently the creative potential of dreams and the unconscious. Diverse and often startling imagery due to unusual juxtapositioning of elements and collage; encompassed a wide range of media, from painting to photography to installations. Has had a heavy impact on fashion and advertising ever since. Elsa Schiaparelli 1890 – 1973 Combined Surrealism and Art Deco, glamour and fun, to produce highly distinctive fashion using themes such as ‘mad carnival’, ‘circus’, ‘pagan’ etc ‘For colours, she is the feminine Paul Poiret.’ (Harper’s Bazaar, 1934) Collaborated with Surrealist artist Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau and others. Added features: her trademark colour ‘shocking pink’, plus hats, embroidery. Customers included many 1930s Hollywood actresses, as well as Mrs. Wallis Simpson (married Duke of Windsor, formerly Edward VIII)

26. Lobster telephone, Surrealist object, 1936 – Salvador Dali

27. Dali-inspired lobster on a white evening dress, c.1937 – Elsa Schiaparelli

28. Evening coat by Elsa Schiaparelli with embroidered illustration by Jean Cocteau, c.1937

29. Hen in Nest Hat, 1938 (illustration by Eric) – Vogue, New York, March 15, 1938

30. Men’s shoes, 1986 – Pierre Cardin