The Cultured Traveller's Dawn Gibson reviews the finest eateries in Qatar's capital, one of the wealthiest cities in the world and host of the 2022 FIFA World Cup. From celebrity spotting in Nobu to dining on slow-cooked camel from the menu of one of the world's most decorated Michelin starred chefs, Qatar is a culinary adventure worth exploring.
Published as a Taste & Sip feature, The Cultured Traveller, Dec 2016-Jan 2017.
All reviews by Dawn Gibson (Dawn Creative Media), except for Toro Toro, written by Nicholas Chrisostomou, Owner & Editor-In-Chief, The Cultured Traveller.
www.TheCulturedTraveller.com
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The Cultured Traveller Explores: Doha's Best Restaurants
1. When you think of capital cities known for their cuisine, Doha does not readily spring to mind. Yet, there is no doubt
that the Qatari metropolis has a foodie soul. The combination of a large expatriate population from around the globe,
and the sophisticated tastes of well-travelled locals, has resulted in a community so devoted to dining out, that it
might as well be named a national pastime. Doha’s thousands of restaurants range from pokey holes in the wall
serving some of the best (and cheapest) Indian fare that you may ever have tasted, to fine dining establishments
founded by some of the world’s best-known chefs, including Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Gordon Ramsay and Alain Ducasse.
To provide our readers with a literary amuse bouche, The Cultured Traveller has selected eight of Doha’s best
restaurants to feature in this special gastronomic spotlight on the wealthy Qatari capital. It was truly tough to narrow
the field down to such a small number, but those that made the list were chosen on the basis of representing top
quality, presentation and service in their particular niche. If you’re craving a succulent steak, a hearty modern Italian
feast, an indulgence of seafood or a flavoursome Latin celebration, it’s all here. Likewise, if you want to see some of
Doha’s chicest spots or canoodle over a romantic dinner for two, there’s something for you too.
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No culinary exploration of Doha would be complete without an evening trip to the city’s main traditional market,
Souq Waqif. While the food quality and service in the souq can be a little haphazard, there are dozens of cafés and
restaurants to choose from and there’s no better place in the city to people-watch. Just before the sun sets, settle
yourself at a table on the main thoroughfare with a freshly made lemon and mint drink, then order some local
dishes. Most popular and ever-present is machbous (popular in many Gulf countries), which is a richly spiced
mélange of Eastern spices, basmati rice, pine nuts and raisins, often topped with a chunk of chicken, mutton, or
locally caught hammour. Also very popular in the Qatari capital, are balaleet (noodles cooked with sugar, cinnamon,
saffron and cardamom), and Umm Ali, a sweet, milky bread-type pudding.
Finally, a quick word about alcoholic beverages: Major hotels in Doha – and restaurants either inside or within a
hotel complex – are permitted to serve alcohol. But stand-alone restaurants cannot serve alcohol. All eateries
featured in this roundup of Doha’s Best Restaurants are fully licensed, with the exception of IDAM.
Dawn Gibson
110 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17 Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 111
DEDICATED FOODIEDEDICATED FOODIE DAWN GIBSON
ROUNDS UP THE FINEST EATERIES INROUNDS UP THE FINEST EATERIES IN
DOHA, ONE OF THE WEALTHIEST CITIESDOHA, ONE OF THE WEALTHIEST CITIES
IN THE WORLD AND HOST OF THEIN THE WORLD AND HOST OF THE
2022 FIFA WORLD CUP2022 FIFA WORLD CUP
2. akkasan started life as a swish Chinese restaurant in
Hanway Place in London, launched by Wagamama
founder Alan Yau in 2001. The brand has come a long
way in the past fifteen years. Today Hakkasan is truly global,
encompassing restaurants, clubs and venues across North
America, Asia, India and the Middle East.
Since opening in Qatar four years ago, Hakkasan has
become one of the most talked about restaurants in Doha – a
place to see and be seen. The décor is stylish and chic and
the crowd is a mix of corporate types, well-dressed couples
and glamorous girls about town. Hakkasan Doha is a regular
winner of gastronomic accolades, having landed Time Out
Doha’s most prestigious award, Restaurant of the Year, for
the past two consecutive years.
Hakkasan’s Qatar outpost is situated amongst the manicured
gardens of the opulent five-star St. Regis Doha, a short
distance from the main hotel, which gives it a more
stand-alone feel than many other top restaurants in the city,
accentuated by a private driveway and entrance.
On the Sunday evening of my visit, the restaurant was about
half full, and the first thing I noticed was the achingly
fashionable interior, designed by iconic French designer,
Christian Liaigre. Dark wood tables and inviting armchairs sit
partially hidden behind Chinese lattice screens. Gold lighting
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accents create a warm glow, and the whisper of low
conversation ebbs and flows from shadowed nooks and
crannies. It’s the kind of place where a risqué romantic
rendezvous might take place across from a multi-million-dollar
international business deal at the same time.
A long, backlit blue onyx bar – running along the right
flank of the restaurant – beckoned us to take a pew. We gave
into temptation without hesitation, kicking off the evening
with an exclusive-to-West Bay signature Tupi Pale cocktail,
made with Tanqueray No. 10 gin and peach liqueur, given a
fruity shake-up with pineapple, lime and peach bitters. It was
strong, simply served and delicious. Removing ourselves
slightly reluctantly from the bar, we walked through the dimly
lit restaurant towards the relaxed terrace, to take advantage
of the balmy Qatar evening.
Each Hakkasan around the world prides itself on offering
unique local dishes and inventive drinks, and Qatar is no
exception. Doha’s head chef, Lai Min Wei, has been
experimenting with traditional Chinese cuisine since he was
a teenager, and worked for Hakkasan in London and Dubai
before heading to Qatar.
To start we selected a variety of small dishes. The Hakka
steamed dim sum platter was a taste of Asian culinary
heaven, comprising piping-hot mouthfuls of scallop shumai,
smoked Wagyu beef and seabass shumai. We also polished
off a Cantonese classic with a twist - prawn toast with truffle
- crunchy and golden, exactly as it should be. Also standout
was the crispy duck salad with pomelo, pine nuts and
shallots, a worldwide Hakkasan signature dish.
Our main course selection included grilled Chilean sea
bass with Chinese honey, which tasted as exquisite as it
looked, the delicate fish beautifully balanced by the sweet
glaze. It’s rightly considered one of Hakkasan’s star turns,
comparable to Nobu’s famous miso-marinated black cod.
The stir-fried Wagyu beef with honey jasmine sauce was
wonderfully tender, whilst the Hakka hand-pulled noodles
with shimeji mushroom and Chinese chives were tasty
enough to tempt even the most fervent low-carb dieter.
Service throughout dinner was pleasant and responsive
whilst still relatively low key, in a part of the world where
overly obsequious waiting staff can sometimes get on your
nerves, after a while. All of the courses arrived in a timely
fashion and our servers had a good knowledge of the menu.
By the time the main course was cleared, it has to be said
that we were fairly full, but felt that it would have been a
culinary crime to leave without tasting the much lauded
chocolate orange dessert, a beautifully presented globe of
gold leaf dusted chocolate, concealing a delicate blood
orange sorbet. Sharing one between the two of us, the divine
chocolate and orange combination rounded-off the meal in a
somewhat theatrical fashion.
Executive chef: Lai Min Wei
Address: The St. Regis Doha, West Bay, Doha, Qatar
Telephone: +974 4446 0170
Email: reservation.hakkasan@stregis.com
Website: www.hakkasan.com/locations/hakkasan-doha
Cuisine: Modern Cantonese
Opening hours: Sun - Thu 19:00 - 00:00
Fri 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 00:00
Sat 13:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 00:00
Suggested lunch: Spicy prawn (QR140), vegetable fried rice (QR58).
Suggested dinner: Crispy duck salad (QR175), Assam seafood claypot
with okra and coconut (QR168), grilled Wagyu beef
with lemon soya sauce (QR250), steamed Jasmine
rice (QR40), lemon and sesame tart (QR55).
Perfect dinner: Hakka steamed dim sum platter (QR98), grilled
Chilean seabass with Chinese honey (QR255),
Peking duck (QR900), Hakka hand-pulled noodles
(QR78), chocolate and olive oil delice (QR55).
Reservations: Essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: Welcome. No high chairs. No kids menu
Credit Cards: All major
Parking: Valet complimentary
Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for dinner on 27 March 2016
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about
the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.
112 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17 Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 113
3. here is no shortage of high-end steakhouses in Doha,
a testimony to the huge appetite in Qatar for the best
quality prime beef amongst both local and expatriate
diners. New York Steakhouse stands out from the pack for a
number of reasons. Its’ classic old-fashioned ambience,
reminiscent of a gentlemen’s club without the stuffy
atmosphere. And the theatricality of the food presentation.
Expect to be entertained as well as wined and dined, from the
time you sit down on one of the blissfully snug red and black
leather armchairs, to the time you reluctantly toddle out. Of
course, the steaks are known to be consistently good,
otherwise there would really be no point!
We arrived on a weekday evening and were graciously led to
our table by server Lloyd, who was friendly and highly
knowledgeable about the menu. Dinner begun with a
refreshing glass of prosecco, and, by way of an amuse
bouche, a neat square of steak surrounded by caviar and
carrot puree, served precisely on a large porcelain spoon. But
things really started to get interesting when the appetizers
were brought to the table. German-born executive chef,
David Dahlhaus, who has been working internationally for
several years, including in Dubai, is committed to ensuring
his guests have a truly memorable foodie experience, and it
really showed.
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The king prawn cocktail was a playful twist on an old classic
– deconstructed and served on a square block of pink ice,
studded with red berries and topped with butterflied prawns.
However, it soon became obvious that the beef tartare was
the starter to order. Lloyd prepared it table-side, mixing
minced raw Black Angus beef with mustard, parsley, capers,
shallots and tarragon, before gently smoking the mixture
using bourbon barrel wood chips and a glass bowl. By the
time he was finished (other diners were craning their necks,
wondering what we had ordered), the end result was a
well-composed and deliciously tasty round of tartare with a
mild heat and herby after-taste.
The show continued when Lloyd wheeled around a display of
the raw cuts from which to choose our main courses. These
included Wagyu, prime beef and Black Angus from the US,
Australia and Argentina, alongside a giant one kilogram
‘tomahawk’ behemoth for two or more (there’s was a two
kilogram piece for the truly carnivorous). Lloyd explained the
marbling of fat in each cut and suggested which he
considered we would best enjoy based on our tastes. There
was also a choice of steak knives, from the dainty and slightly
decorative French, to Samurai-style blades.
I selected a Wagyu fillet mignon, medium, with a red wine
sauce and sides of asparagus and carrots. My dining partner
also plumped for a Wagyu cooked medium for its tasty highly
marbled meat, but a larger rib-eye with a mushroom sauce,
served with a baked potato and sautéed mushrooms. The
steaks, especially the fillet, were as melt in the mouth as one
could have wished – juicy, butter-soft and flavoursome. The
red wine sauce was a particularly good choice, and the perfect
accompaniment to the mushrooms as well as the meat. My
only quibble what that the sauces and sides are all charged
extra and separately – including one complimentary sauce
with each steak surely would not have been too onerous!
At the outset we had accepted Lloyd’s suggested wine
pairings, and once the food and vinos were served together,
we were glad. The wines were all from the Americas: a crisp
Californian chardonnay with the prawn cocktail, an
Argentinian Malbec to complement the tartare and a robust,
fruity Washington Syrah, the best pick, with the main course
steaks.
We ended the meal with a somewhat indulgent although
rather scrumptious Baked Alaska - a nougat and
meringue-based ball of sweetness – plus a slice of lemon
tart with thyme marshmallow and yoghurt sorbet. The
desserts were a fittingly impressive conclusion to a dinner
that had been as exquisitely presented as it had been
114 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17 Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 115
Executive chef: David Dahlhaus
Address: Marriott Marquis City Center Doha Hotel, Omar Al
Mukhtar Street, West Bay, Doha, Qatar
Telephone: +974 4419 5000
Email: mhrs.dohmq.Restaurant.Reservation@marriotthotels.com
Website: www.marriottmarquisdohadining.com
Cuisine: American steakhouse
Opening hours: Lunch Sun - Thu 12:00 - 15:00
Dinner 7 nights 18:30 - 23:30
Suggested lunch: 3-course set (QR95)
Suggested dinner: New England seafood chowder (QR55), fillet
tasting trio (QR275), lemon tart (QR45).
Perfect dinner: Beef tartare (QR95), mixed grill (QR275),
Philadelphia cheesecake (QR45)
Reservations: Required
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: High chairs yes. Kids menu yes.
Credit cards: All major
Parking: Free valet
Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for dinner on 17 March 2016
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback
about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining
room.
satisfying. However, it’s the showmanship of the waiting staff
that makes New York Steakhouse a memorable place for a
night out.
4. n a city where there sometimes seems to be a new
restaurant launched every week, it is comforting to be
able to fall back on old, trusted favourites. Market by
Jean-Georges is one such eatery for much of Doha’s
business community – not least because it is conveniently
located in the heart of the city’s business district, West Bay,
at the funky W Doha Hotel & Residences. Market is chic
without being overly fussy, and is known citywide for the
swift service and consistently good quality cuisine. It
wasn’t much of a surprise then, when the restaurant – part
of the global empire of renowned Alsatian chef,
Jean-Georges Vongerichten – took home the gongs for Best
Business Lunch and Best European at the 2016 Time Out
Doha restaurant awards.
We arrived just after noon on a Sunday – the Arab world’s
Monday – and the restaurant was already three quarters
full. The reason is Market’s purse-friendly QR98 express
lunch menu, which offers a generous choice of six
appetizers, mains and desserts, including a number of the
restaurant’s signature dishes. You can order, eat and settle
your bill within 40 minutes if you wish. While there is also a
reasonable selection of wines by the glass, we were
behaving ourselves that day, and ordered peach
pomegranate mojito mocktails, a refreshing if sugary
choice.
Turning to the appetizer menu, I couldn’t decide between
the tomato soup with cheddar and croutons, or a steamed
shrimp salad, and eventually settled on the seafood.
Meanwhile my friend ordered the salmon tartar with garlic
toast. Both were a bit of a let-down, to be honest. The
salad was huge, but even chunks of lovely creamy avocado
and feisty Champagne vinaigrette were not enough to
disguise the fact that it was mostly a mountain of greens
with a stingy amount of shrimp around the edges. My
friend was equally unimpressed with her bland salmon
tartar, and I wish we had both plumped for the tomato soup
instead.
Thankfully, the next course restored our faith. I enjoyed a
beautifully slow-cooked piece of salmon, topped with
potato mash and sliced Brussels sprouts inside a ring of
black truffle emulsion. The flavours combined perfectly,
and I wondered why I had never thought of slicing sprouts
before. My friend tucked into parmesan-crusted chicken –
which I had eaten on a previous visit, since it proves to be a
consistent winner – served with basil-lemon butter and
asparagus. An aside: the vegetables served with the
express lunch mains are little more than a garnish, so I
suggest ordering at least one side between two people. We
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Executive chef: Chamil Balasuriya
Address: W Doha Hotel & Residences, West Bay, Doha, Qatar
Telephone: +974 4453 5373
Email: bnfreservations.wdoha@whotels.com
Website: www.marketdoha.com
Cuisine: International
Opening hours: Sat - Thu 12:00 - 16:00, 17:00 - 23:30
Fri 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:30
Suggested lunch: Express set lunch (QAR98)
Suggested dinner: Steamed shrimp salad (QAR75),
slow-cooked salmon (QR125), salted
caramel ice cream sundae (QAR45)
Perfect dinner: Fresh burrata (QAR90), grilled prime sirloin
(QR170), warm chocolate cake (QAR45)
Reservations: Essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: High chairs yes. Kids menu yes
Credit cards: All major
Parking: Free valet
Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for lunch on 20 March 2016
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s
feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in
the dining room.
I
116 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17 Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 117
also shared an irresistibly tasty black truffle pizza, but
resisted the urge to finish every piece with thoughts of the
desserts to come. This proved to be a wise move,
particularly for my friend, who ordered the restaurant’s
famed salted caramel sundae. The dish was served in a
cereal bowl, and included a generous serving of caramel
ice cream surrounded by a riot of peanuts, popcorn and
chocolate fudge sauce. My choice – warm chocolate cake
with vanilla ice cream – was dainty by comparison but
equally yummy. As part of the express lunch menu, Market
also offers a bag of homemade cookies-to-go, for those
with a sweet tooth who are in a hurry to leave after their
mains.
Whilst we hadn’t been keeping a close eye on the time
(Market is a very social and intensely chatty restaurant!),
the service was prompt and courteous throughout and the
waiters attentive without making us feel uncomfortable.
Overall, the lunch experience was reliable, efficient and
excellent value for money. The emphasis on high quality
dishes served promptly is clearly a successful (dare I say
it?) marketing ploy, equally popular with executives in a
hurry and ladies who lunch.
We lingered a little longer over coffee, before leaving
through the hotel’s über-fashionable and happening lobby,
stomachs contentedly full and wallets mercilessly
unscathed.
5. n a city where slick concept restaurants regularly debut in
swanky 5-star hotels, offering different gastronomic
journeys, it's not always easy for a newcomer to make its
mark in Doha and attract a decent crowd. But then again,
Mexican-born Denver-based celebrity chef Richard Sandoval
is no stranger to opening restaurants in the Gulf region. A
global pioneer in contemporary Latin cuisine, Sandoval is
internationally acclaimed for his innovative combination of
Latin ingredients and modern culinary techniques to create
thrilling and sophisticated flavours. Since opening his first
Mexican restaurant almost twenty years ago in New York City,
Sandoval has employed his classically trained and modern
approach to traditional Mexican food, to grow his empire
across the States and Mexico and into the Middle East, and
now helms more than 45 restaurants globally. But he doesn’t
stop there, also offering his take on coastal Mexican cuisine,
Latin/Asian-fused small plates and most recently a pan-Lat-
in interpretation of a contemporary steakhouse, which is
where Toro Toro comes in.
Doha is Sandoval’s second Toro Toro outlet in the Gulf, located
within Marsa Malaz Kempinski hotel complex. Whilst two
giant bulls greet you at the entrance, once inside Toro Toro
Doha the dramatics are very much grown-up. The sultry
interior features accents of burnt orange, dark charcoal walls,
plenty of wooden textured finishes and leather furniture
throughout. This is not a small restaurant - the ground floor
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Chef de cuisine: Bojan Petrovic
Address: Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl - Doha, Costa Malaz Bay,
Doha, Qatar
Telephone: +974 4446 0170
Email: torotoro@torotorodoha.com
Website: www.torotorodoha.com
Cuisine: Latin American
Opening hours: Sat - Wed 19:00 - 01:00
Thu 19:00 - 02:00
Fri 12:30 - 16:00, 19:00 - 02:0
Suggested dinner: Ceviche Huachinango (QR85), beef fillet
anticucho (QR90), crispy prawns (QR90),
(QR250), pulpo al olivo (QR80), 650g churrasco
skewer - serves 2 (QR450), steamed asparagus
(QR60), potato puree (QR50), Tres Leches (QR50).
Perfect dinner: Ceviche Huachinango (QR85), beef fillet
anticucho (QR90), crispy prawns (QR90), pulpo
al olivo (QR80), rodízio-style main course - free
flow of meat and sides (QR440 per person),
Suspiro Limeño (QR50), Tres Leches (QR50).
Reservations: Essential at weekends
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: Welcome. High chairs yes. No kids menu
Credit Cards: All major
Parking: Valet complimentary
Reviewed by Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner on 30 March 2016
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback
about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.
118 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17 Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 119
dining room seats more than 150, whilst just under 200 can
be comfortably accommodated upstairs - yet the skillful
interior design aesthetic makes the place feel warm and
inviting, a touch understatedly glamorous even. It doesn’t take
long for us to be seated and get comfy. I love the no-non-
sense approach to South American eating. There’s little, if any,
faffing around. The first round of drinks was delivered within
minutes and then the serious business began with gusto.
The concept of Toro Toro is all about sharing dishes, its menu
dominated by small meat plates, grilled octopus, ceviche and
the like. We opted for five-courses, comprising cold starters, a
round of suviche rolls, hot appetizers, a meaty main course
and finally desserts.
Of the four cold appetizers we shared, the Ceviche
Huachinango was standout. Made with sea bass, it was
deliciously fresh and bursting with flavours. The smoked duck
breast Tiradito was also superb.
A signature experience at Toro Toro is “suviche” (sushi and
ceviche) which combines Asian and Latin influences and
flavours. Served from a dedicated suviche bar, our scrummy
beef rolls were a delicious course in their own right.
Conscious that the main course was still to come, we took
it easy with the hot appetizers, sampling everything but
trying to leave space. Nevertheless, the marinated beef
tenderloin skewers (anticucho) and crispy prawns in Japa-
nese breadcrumbs were impossible to resist, the latter served
with a divine, sweet sauce.
For me the grilled octopus was the star of the three main
courses. Succulent and smoky, despite being very full already
I almost demolished the entire plate. The beef fillet (Palomilla
de Res) was accompanied by a robust and tasty cognac black
pepper sauce, whilst the moist lamb Shank was perfectly
cooked and easy to eat as it came off the bone.
Desserts were a Peruvian combination of dulce de leche
and meringue (Suspiro Limeño), the restaurant’s trademark
Tres Leches, and Mexican brownie. All three were delicious
and moreish – the tres leches cake oozing an incomparable
feeling of comfort. After one sweet mouthful of each I simply
couldn’t accommodate any more food.
Service throughout was friendly and efficient yet not
overwhelming. Assistant manager, Beatriz Welter, was warm,
helpful and informative without being gushy or in your face.
The handcrafted cocktails we sipped upstairs after dinner
were delectable and generous. The entire experience could
not be faulted from start to finish, the food being the shining
star of the show.
Praised worldwide by the industry, media, peers and patrons
alike, for elevating Latin American dining in each market he
has a presence, Richard Sandoval has once again created an
outstanding restaurant in Toro Toro Doha, which is positively,
upstairs and down, and offers a unique culinary experience in
the Qatari capital.
6. f you’re going to visit just one fine dining restaurant in
Doha, make it IDAM. Yes, it’s a bold statement to make at
the start of a review, but there is good reason for it. While
many restaurants claim to provide a unique experience, this is
the adventure in ‘haute cuisine’ you will be telling your friends
about, from the mezze decorated with edible gold leaf, to
how you bravely tried the signature slow-cooked camel.
The first Middle Eastern venture by the multiple
Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse, whose restaurants include
his flagship Le Louis XV at the Hôtel de Paris Monte Carlo and
a namesake eatery at London’s Dorchester, among many
others, it is unsurprising that IDAM regularly features on VIP
itineraries. Michelle Obama held a private dinner here, while
Mary, the Crown Princess of Denmark, was reportedly much
taken by the incredible décor.
Housed at the top of Qatar’s iconic Museum of Islamic Art,
IDAM boasts one of the best views across the water towards
Doha’s futuristic West Bay skyline. The interior is just as
impressive, a minimalist masterpiece in monochrome, by
renowned designer Philippe Starck. While it is hard to shake
the ‘night at the museum’ feel entirely, Starck has artfully
closed in the dining area with circular installations suspended
from the high ceiling to give it less of an institutional feel.
Every small detail has been carefully considered, from the
Arabic calligraphy on the thick carpet, to the exquisitely
beautiful, heavy crystal goblets. However, there is one
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significant downside to the stunning setting - you cannot
drink alcohol in a museum dedicated to Islamic art. That said,
it would be a huge shame to miss out on IDAM for the sake of
a few glasses of wine, especially as you could always go for a
nightcap at a nearby licensed hotel afterwards.
In order to sample as wide a selection as possible from the
kitchen of executive chef Frederic Larquemin, we opted for
the Experience menu. If you plan to visit IDAM for dinner and
also order the tasting menu, I strongly suggest that you have
a tiny salad for lunch, or perhaps just a glass of water.
Once we were comfortably seated at our table – admiring the
calligraphy on the thick white-on-white bespoke tablecloths –
and had been given a brief synopsis of the menu concept, the
bread trolley was duly wheeled out. And what a bread trolley it
was. There were enough varieties on display to stock a village
bakers' shop – large crusty baguettes, wholemeal buns, bread
tinted yellow with pricey saffron, a fluffy cottage loaf, bread
flavoured with za'atar (a blend of herbs, including oregano and
basil thyme, popular throughout the Arab world), and many
more, all as fresh as could be, and utterly scrumptious. We
prevented ourselves from sampling one of each type by thoughts
of the next course, which proved to be even more bounteous...
plate after plate of beautifully presented mezze, which literally
filled the large table. There was creamy broad bean soup,
goujonnettes made from locally-sourced hammour fish, truffled
chicken pâté, a floral salad, and on and on. Our favourite was
IDAM’s take on the traditional Moroccan dish, harira, which
tasted like a nutty chickpea and lentil porridge, and was draped
with genuine gold foil for a touch of pure decadence. For
mains, we could not pass-up the restaurant’s signature camel
with duck foie gras, black truffle and souffléed potatoes, which
takes days to prepare. The meat was melt-in-the-mouth
tender and tasted a bit like venison, with a sharper, earthier
hint courtesy of the truffle. Our second main – free-range
chicken – was succulent and lightly seasoned, served with
zesty lemon quinoa, but simply no match for the camel. There
were paired drinks, if not stiff ones. We were greeted with
elegant flutes of rosé Champagne – non-alcoholic, but delicious
none-the-less – and then plied with exotic mocktails, including
a pomegranate drink infused with hibiscus and lavender,
presented in its own little mini ice chamber for extra wow factor.
As you might have guessed already, the desserts were every
bit as extravagant as the rest: a selection of rich chocolate
concoctions, macaroons, biscuits, jellies and fresh mango
materialized on the table, but by this stage we were
struggling to fit in another bite.
It was time to leave this contemporary palace of gastronomic
delights and return to the real world. Gliding silently down in
the restaurant’s elegant lift, accompanied by a hostess
through the silent museum to the waiting Doha night, felt a
little like Alice in Wonderland returning from her culinary
adventures. There was definitely a sprinkle of magic in the air
Executive Chef: Frederic Larquemin
Address: Museum of Islamic Art, 5th floor. Doha, Qatar
Telephone: +974 44 22 44 88
Email: idam@qm.org.qa
Website: www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/idam
Cuisine: French Mediterranean
Opening hours: Wed – Sun 12:30 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:00
Suggested lunch: 3-course set (QR200)
Suggested dinner: Mezze selection (QR300); tender camel, duck foie
gras, black truffle, souffléed potatoes (QR390);
IDAM chocolate (QR80)
Perfect dinner: 7-course Experience Menu (QR785)
Reservations: Essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: High chairs available
Credit cards: All major
Parking: Valet complimentary
Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for dinner on 6 April 2016
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback
about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.
120 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17 Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 121
at IDAM, and more than a little found its way into the cuisine.
A final note: yes, IDAM is unsurprisingly one of the priciest
restaurants in Doha. For a wallet-friendly option, try the lunch
set menu, which is excellent value for a Michelin-starred
experience. However, if it’s a special occasion or you want to
impress, the dinner Experience menu is highly recommended.
7. ention Thai cuisine and most of us envisage the
ubiquitous green chicken curry, fried noodles and
spicy soups. While these feature on the menu at
Isaan – the signature restaurant of the sprawling 27-acre
beachfront Grand Hyatt Doha resort, in West Bay Lagoon – it
is the flavoursome dishes of the region in north-east
Thailand, for which the restaurant is named, which give this
luxe eatery its distinctive edge.
Typical fare from Isaan – an area which borders Laos and
Cambodia – includes sweet spicy salads, eaten with grilled
meats, fish and sticky rice. The food is simply prepared but
bursting with a complex array of flavours, from chilli to lime,
fresh fruit to dried shrimp, and coriander to lemongrass. So
we were looking forward to experiencing a whirlwind of taste
when we booked to dine at Isaan on a weekend night.
On entering the restaurant, the first thing one notices is that,
despite being situated just off Grand Hyatt Doha’s main
lobby, Isaan doesn’t have the same-same atmosphere of
many hotel restaurants. It looks and feels like a stand-alone
establishment. Three open live kitchens ensure guests in the
large, airy dining space can keep an eye on what the chefs
are up to, and there’s a large wraparound terrace to take
advantage of balmy Qatar nights.
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Isaan has a reputation for consistently good service, and this
is evident throughout our visit, under the watchful eye of
friendly manager, Adisak Onjan, who greeted us at the table
and shared his personal recommendations as we sipped on
refreshing Thai whisky ginger chilli cocktails.
In keeping with Thai custom, dishes are designed to be
shared, and are generally served in small portions so that
diners can enjoy a variety of tastes during one meal.
If you have never dined at Isaan before, one of the
five-course set menus is recommended. These feature a
selection of salads, including the signature Som Tam (spicy
green papaya, tomato and peanut), soups, fried appetizers,
grilled meats, stir-fries, curries and desserts. Since we had
dined at Isaan previously, we ordered à la carte.
We started with Guay Tiew Ped Toon – a braised duck and
noodle soup – and Tom Kha Gai – an exceptionally sweet and
creamy concoction of chicken, lemongrass, galangal and
coconut. We follow this with fried fish cakes and sweet chilli
sauce, palatable but a little bland and easily overshadowed
by the next dish, Yum Nuea Yang, a spicy traditional salad of
beef slivers, lime juice and oyster mushrooms. The deliciously
tangy salad was skillfully balanced and one of the highlights
of the meal.
Another standout dish was the manager’s recommendation
of grilled whole sea bass. Presented on a bed of pandan
leaves and topped with crunchy golden-fried onions, the
delectably succulent fish was served with a selection of four
sauces – two chilli-based, plus a tamarind and mild ginger.
The crisp, slightly fruity nose of the Louis Eschenauer
Sauvignon Blanc we chose to accompany the meal was
perfect for the fish.
We also nibbled on a flavoursome roast duck and
pineapple red curry (Kaeng Ped Ped Yang), and grilled tiger
prawns with tamarind sauce (Goong Yang), before sharing a
classic Thai dessert of egg custard and sticky rice.
It’s easy to see why Isaan is such an established favourite
on the Doha restaurant scene, since it was launched by then
chef de cuisine, Wachira Chaipinidnorrachart, eight years
ago. Chef Chaipinidnorrachart’s commitment to authenticity
– for example, the restaurant steams and serves sticky rice in
a bamboo basket, the way it is done in Thailand – has been
carried on under his successor, Somporn Sintawee, and it
shows.
There’s a variety of budget southeast Asian restaurants in
Doha, serving tasty, reliable food, albeit in lack lustre settings,
but fine for a quick stop after a long day. However, if you are
hankering for perfectly presented, authentic cuisine in relaxed
yet luxurious surroundings, no Thai in the bustling Qatari
capital compares to multi award-winning Isaan.
Executive chef: Jean-Christophe Fieschi
Chef de cuisine: Somporn Sintawee
Address: Grand Hyatt Doha, West Bay Lagoon, Doha, Qatar
Telephone: +974 4448 1250
Email: dohgh-isaan.restaurant@hyatt.com
Website: www.doha.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/Isaan
Cuisine: Thai
Opening hours: Sat – Thu 19:00 – 23:30
Fri 12:30 - 15:30, 19:00 – 23:30
Suggested brunch: QR399 with wine & spirits
Suggested dinner: Shrimp cakes (QR60), deep fried sea bass
(QR40), Stir-fried shrimp, squid, black mussels
& scallops (QR65), chicken in panang curry
(QR41), coconut ice cream (QR30)
Perfect dinner: Spicy green papaya salad (QR35), grilled
boneless whole sea bass (QR 140), sticky rice,
mango & coconut cream (QR35)
Reservations: Essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: High chairs yes. Kids menu yes
Credit cards: All major
Parking: Free or chargeable valet
Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for dinner on 24 March 2016
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback
about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.
122 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17 Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 123
8. PORCINI
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s is the case in most world cities, there’s no
shortage of Italian restaurants in Doha. You can dine
at trendy La Spiga at the W, nibbling on pasta as
Hollywood legends gaze down at you from the walls, or brave
the attention of the enthusiastic singing waiters at The Italian
Job across town at Radisson Blu. What sets Porcini apart, is
the highly innovative chef de cuisine, Moreno Gianfranco
Miotto, whose understanding of traditional Italian cuisine is
matched only by his fervent passion for reinventing old
favourites with his own contemporary twist. Born in Veneto in
northeastern Italy, chef Miotto made his mark as the owner of
several award-winning restaurants in Canada, before his
arrival in Qatar, bringing signature dishes such as his
handmade lobster ravioli with him.
We had not been at Porcini for longer than five minutes
before Chef Miotto appeared to greet us. Genial and chatty,
without being over the top, he easily persuaded us to opt for
his five-course tasting menu so that we could sample some
of his finest recipes.
The dining room was comfortable if a tad old-fashioned (we
were informed that a refurbishment was imminent),
A
decorated in a palette of deep red, gold and brown, with cut
glass chandeliers and heavy wooden furniture.
A waiter delivered a selection of breads to the table and
we were spoiled for choice by a sweet focaccia, crispy grissini
and a light, grainy walnut bread, served with capsicum dip, a
creamy pine nut hummus, and an olive and sundried tomato
tapenade. We avoided eating much, knowing we had so
many courses to come!
The starters were an fitting introduction to the tasting menu,
so beautifully prepared that we were almost frightened to
mar such works of art with anything as brutal as a fork. I was
presented with the crudo di gamberetti, a neat row of shrimp
tails delicately flavoured with orange rosemary foam. My
companion’s starter was carpaccio circles, precisely arranged
and topped with a tomato bread salad. The procession of
dishes that followed was all just as beautifully presented.
Two of chef Miotto’s signature dishes stood out: Lobster
ravioli, in which the seafood tang was just right and not
overpowered by the tomato basil sauce; and the restaurant’s
namesake porcini mushrooms in a creamy white wine sauce,
served on a bed of polenta.
For main course, I was served a well-seasoned beef
tenderloin filet, a generous piece cooked to perfection. My
companion tucked-into a lamb rack with fennel ragout and
truffle jus, which, while also expertly cooked, was a little too
salty for his taste.
Our only other criticism regarded the wine. After tasting
several, we selected a Tini Sangiovese, a medium-bodied
fruity red, which while quaffable was a little bland. We would
have done with better advice on the wine front, and perhaps
sipped an older vintage. However, by dessert, we had quite
forgotten about the red. Porcini outshone itself presentation
wise yet again, with a decadently rich citrus-laced chocolate
mousse, encased in a globe of silky milk coverture, decorated
with crunchy chocolate pieces and kumquat sorbet. It was a
suitably impressive end to a glorious meal – the kind of
experience one wished was accompanied by a plump sofa
nearby to collapse onto in post-gastronomic bliss.
Décor aside, this is new Italian as it should be. Porcini skilfully
manages to infuse sentimental old favourites with fresh
flavours and innovative ideas, ensuring diners are pleasantly
surprised by each bite. Just as language never stays the
124 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17 Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 125
Chef de cuisine: Moreno Gianfranco Miotto
Address: The Ritz-Carlton, Doha, Lower Lobby, West Bay Lagoon
Doha, Qatar
Telephone: +974 4484 8000
Email: rc.dohrz.leads@ritzcarlton.com
Website: www.ritzcarlton.com
Cuisine: Italian
Opening hours: Every night 18:30 - 23:00
Suggested dinner: Carpaccio di Manzo con manzanella (QR75),
Branzino Portofino (QR185), Cannoli (QR55).
Perfect dinner: Chef's kitchen counter blind tasting menu
(QR250/person)
Reservations: Recommended
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: High chairs yes. Kids menu on request
Credit cards: All major except Diners
Parking: Free valet
Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for dinner on 4 April 2016
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback
about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.
same, good cuisine is always a work in progress, albeit one
that draws on centuries of tradition.
9. cocktails. As we were leaving, we looked hopefully towards the
lifts just in case De Niro was making a late entrance, but it was
not to be. Martha would just have to do this time.
hen Robert De Niro and star chef Nobu Matsuhisa
launched their Doha restaurant last year, Qatar’s
glitterati were naturally champing at the bit. It was
one of the most anticipated opening parties for years, in a city
where eating out is the new black. The opportunity to rub
shoulders with a legendary Hollywood star, while nibbling on
the world-famous contemporary Japanese cuisine popular
with celebrities from Mayfair to Malibu, Miami to Milan?
Everyone who was anyone was there, darling. When we
visited Nobu’s Doha outpost, there was still a sprinkling of
star dust in the air. American lifestyle goddess Martha
Stewart was holding court on a nearby table, drinking a sake
cocktail. We tried our best not to look over in her direction too
often lest we were mistaken for stalkers. It was a Monday
night but the 134-seat dining room was almost full and the
lounge bars were buzzing with beautiful people. It was
ladies’ night, with an all-night-long happy hour on specialty
dishes and signature sips. Manager Layne Nguyen seated us
at a booth at the edge of the expansive dining room from
which we could observe the comings-and-goings from a
perfect vantage point. Having dinner at Nobu – anywhere in
the world, generally – is usually a people watcher’s dream.
Located within the grounds of Doha’s Four Seasons hotel –
on its own pier overlooking the Arabian Gulf – Qatar’s is
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NOBU DOHA
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currently the biggest Nobu restaurant in the world. Sprawling
26,000ft2
over three levels – including a rooftop lounge, two
indoor bars and private dining rooms – it sometimes feels a
little like a high-end eating and drinking terminal, rather than
a restaurant.
We start off by spiritually joining Martha Stewart’s table, and
ordering some of Nobu’s famous sake cocktails. My friend
tries the Soshu 28, a brave choice with a kick of blueberries
and energy drink, while I opt for the slightly more sedate
lemongrass-tinged Japanese Mojito. Both are heady and full
of flavour. The restaurant’s Omakase experience follows, for a
taste of some of Nobu’s most renowned dishes. We also
ordered a bottle of the Chilean Montes Sauvignon Blanc, a
crisp, slightly fruity vino which proved the perfect
accompaniment for the assortment of dishes which followed.
After a light amuse- bouche of vegetable rolls, our friendly
waiter, Daniel, served Yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno – an
absolutely delightful starter. The sashimi was deftly fanned
out across the plate, each a buttery soft mouthful. With our
taste buds piqued, we munched our way through a
delectable sushi selection (we particularly love the nod to the
Americas with the mini salmon taco), sweet crab served in its
shell with a citrus vinaigrette, traditional Peruvian raw fish
dish tiradito, and a moreish serving of popcorn-style shrimp
tempura balls.
After a short break, Daniel presented the one dish that Nobu
is best known for, Black Cod Yuzu Miso, and I am happy to
report that it lived up to the fanfare. Adapted from a
centuries-old traditional Japanese recipe, the filet is steeped
in miso before serving until it is delightfully sweet, moist and
tender. We also tried a spicy beef tenderloin Toban Yaki, with
three different kinds of mushroom, a choice I heartily
recommend if you are dining à la carte and don’t fancy
seafood. The meal closed with a dessert of mochi ice cream -
a Japanese treat made with sticky rice cake. Delicious. My
dining companion was served a slightly dry chocolate fondant
with vanilla ice cream in a lacquered box, which sadly
seemed a bit of an after-thought given the overall intense
attention to detail. Still, this was a minor smudge after an
exceptional evening. The exquisite dishes and well considered
flavours would have had us coming back for more, despite
the high Nobu price tag. But it was the combination of fine
fare and a decadent fashion-led ambience that makes this
one of Doha’s must-visit restaurants.
It was getting late by the time we stopped feasting, but there
continued to be a steady flow of new arrivals seeking sushi and
126 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17 Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 127
Executive chef: Andrew Bozoki
Address: Four Seasons Hotel Doha Marina, Doha, Qatar
Telephone: +974 4494 8888
Email: nobu.doh@fourseasons.com
Website:
www.fourseasons.com/doha/dining/restaurants/nobu_doha
Cuisine: Contemporary Japanese
Opening hours: 7 nights 18:30 – 23:30
Suggested dinner: Crispy rice with spicy salmon (QR120), edamame
(QR25), Yellowtail sashimi (QR150), rock shrimp
tempura (QR135), Black cod (QR235), Nobu
cheesecake (QR65).
Perfect dinner: Omakase menu (QR450 or QR650/person)
Reservations: Essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: No high chairs, no kids menu.
Credit cards: All major
Parking: Free valet
Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for dinner on 21 March 2016
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback
about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.