This document provides guidelines for labeling artifacts in museums and historical societies to maintain inventory control and connect artifacts to their documentation. It discusses where to place labels, what materials are safe to use, and specific guidelines for labeling different types of artifacts like textiles, objects, paper-based artifacts and paintings. Labels should not be written directly on artifacts and different labeling methods are recommended depending on the artifact material.
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5. Sometimes it isn’t safe or possible to place the label directly on the artifact. Whenever you are dealing with potentially complicated artifacts, it is always best to consult a conservator first. CCCA has objects, paintings, and paper conservators who can help answer these questions. Insect specimens with paper labels and pins. Natural history specimens with water-resistant labels and permanent ink.
6. Don’t forget to add extra labels when the object is in storage. Adding extra labels to housing enclosures and to the artifacts in storage can dramatically reduce unnecessary handling and wasted time searching for an artifact. Add digital photos when possible. Paper tag with pencil number on sword handle. Digital photo printed on Permadur on outside of pamphlet box. Label printed on Permadur in Melinex sleeve on outside of document box.
7. What is the right type of label for the artifact? Different types of artifacts require different types of labels. Labels can be tied or sewn to the artifact. Labels can be applied to the artifact on top of a barrier coat. Sometimes labels can be written on the housing enclosures only.
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9. Unbleached white cotton twill tape is ideal. It is available from conservation suppliers and costs approximately $13 for a 72 yard roll. It can also be used for tying labels onto other types of objects. Thread and needles can be obtained from a local fabric store. B pencils can be found at art supply stores. White Cotton Twill Tape White cotton thread and needle. Materials for Labeling Textiles “ B” graphite pencils
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11. Pre-mixed barriers (lacquers) are available from conservation suppliers and cost around $8.00 and are come in clear and opaque white with brush applicators. These can be used with pencils or pigma pens. Labels can also be printed on acid- and lignin-free paper (available from conservation suppliers) and adhered with the B-72 while wet. For written labels, a barrier coat should be applied first and allowed to dry. A second top coat should be applied after the numbers have dried. Clear and Opaque White B-72 Lacquer in Acetone Printed paper labels. Micron Pigma Pens - Black Materials for Labeling Objects – glass, metals, ceramics and other inorganic materials
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13. Archival tag kits are available from conservation suppliers and offer a safe and easy to apply labeling system. A pack of 100 tags costs from approximately $15 to $25 depending upon the size of the tag. Acid- and lignin-free tags with cotton ties “ B” graphite pencils & black pigma pens Materials for Labeling Objects – rubber, leather, wood, feathers and organic materials Printed paper labels.
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15. Only soft “B” graphite pencils should be used for marking paper. Write gently to avoid leaving a permanent impression. Labeling kits for boxes are available from conservation suppliers in a variety of sizes. For example a set of 100 2.5” x 3.75” labels costs approximately $15.00. You can add digital images and text and then print hem on a laser printer. Or you can print your own labels on acid-free, buffered paper. “ B” graphite pencils Printed labels and Melinex sleeves for boxes. Printed paper label with digital image. Materials for Labeling Paper-Based Artifacts
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17. Only soft “B” graphite pencils should be used for marking the labels. Archival tag kits are available from conservation suppliers and offer a safe and easy to apply labeling system. Or you can print your own labels on acid-free, buffered paper and attach them with cotton thread. “ B” graphite pencils Acid- and lignin-free tags with cotton ties Materials for Labeling Paintings
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Inventory control. Security. Physical connection to documentation. Others?
Who makes the decisions? A Board? A Curator? Volunteers? Nobody? Where are procedures written down? A good policy is to add this info (materials used) to the file for each artifact as you label. If you don’t have a collections management policy, where else could they be recorded? How do you make sure the labelers know about them? Any time that inventorying is happening is a good time for pre-existing collections. Or set up a project in which this is the goal. Take digital photographs at the same time. Label new acquisitions as soon as they are officially accepted. Some labeling materials, such as lacquers which include solvents, should be used in a well-ventilated room and the labeler should wear nitrile gloves. Some labeling methods are easier to use than others. Applying numbers with fine paint brushes or crow quill pens used to be the standard practice, but this can be very difficult to do successfully.
Have you seen any previous labeling locations that seem good or bad in your collections? Can you think of any other places to avoid?
Can you think of any examples in your collection that might fall into this category? Answering this type of questions is one of the free services CCCA offers to its members.
Does anyone do this already? Remember to use pencil whenever possible since it is lightfast and will not be adversely effected by water or solvents. Make sure your labeling materials are stable. Use acid-free, buffered papers and unbleached cotton ties when possible. Try to place these labels in the same place.
There is no single type of label that is appropriate for all of the materials in one collection. What are the most common types of artifacts in your collections? What types do you see as being particularly problematic?