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South Asian Studies Association Brown Bag Radio The following slides accompany a live webcast/podcast and are part of the South Asian Studies Association’s Brown Bag Radio initiative.  Information on SASA can be found at  http://www.sasia.org .  BBR podcasts are archived at  http://www.brownbagradio.net .  Slide shows are the intellectual property of their respective presenters. Sanchita B. Saxena Competitiveness in the Garment and Textiles Industry: A Case Study of Bangladesh
Competitiveness in the Garment and Textiles Industry: A Case Study of Bangladesh Sanchita B. Saxena, Ph.D Vice Chair, Center for South Asia Studies UC Berkeley January 14, 2009 This research was supported by funding from The Asia Foundation and the International  and Area Studies Division at UC Berkeley.
Background ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Total apparel exports from Bangladesh (1994-2006) in millions of USD Data compiled from the BGMEA
% of Bangladesh’s RMG export to its total exports Data compiled from the BGMEA 60.64 1992-93 73.28 1997-98 75.14 2000-01 35.24 1988-89 76.04 2006-07 74.79 2003-04 50.47 1990-91 16.05 1985-86 3.89 1983-84 % of RMG to total Year
2008: A changing Trade Environment ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
2004 to 2008: Changes in perceptions about the sector ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
External factors influencing domestic reforms ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Relationship among the stakeholders End of the MFA Decision making by  International   Buyers - Do we continue to source from Bangladesh? Government:  National level policy changes to improve competitiveness Factory owners : Changes at factory level to improve competitiveness Middle managers:  Changes at factory level to improve competitiveness Factory workers Quality product International NGOs
Understanding competitiveness ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
What do stakeholders believe are the key factors for competitiveness?- 1 ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
What do stakeholders believe are the key factors for competitiveness?- 2 ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Findings: Role of govt. before phase-out ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Findings: Role of govt. now ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Findings: Buyers’ Strategy post-MFA ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Findings: Factory competitiveness (in order of importance)- 1 International Retailer Factory Owners Low cost Training of workers Pre-production assisting/ Ability to deal with sophisticated designs/materials Technological advancements Living wages for workers Long standing prior relationship with your buyer Ability to deal with sophisticated designs/materials Good working conditions/ Healthcare Speed to market/ Labor standards Productivity of workers Low cost/ Productivity/ Quality/ Pre-production assisting/ Reliability Speed to market
Findings: Factory competitiveness (in order of importance)- 2 ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Factors influencing competitiveness ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Findings: Bangladesh’s Competitiveness- 1 ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Findings: Bangladesh Competitiveness- 2 ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Findings: Main Competitors - 1 ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Exports to the U.S. between 2007-2008 of Bangladesh and its competitors Data from the U.S. Dept. of Commerce, Office of Textiles and Apparel
Findings: Rating of Competitors- 2 ,[object Object],Closer to fabric base, price, product mix, infrastructure 5 China Infrastructure, capacity, costs 4 Indonesia Fabric and textile base, availability of raw materials 4 Pakistan Very small country, low capacity 3 Cambodia Product mix (variety), textile base, raw materials availability, IT 3 India Labor cost, capacity, political problems 1 Sri Lanka Cost, capacity, quality (needle work) 4 Bangladesh Perceived factors of success Rating Country
Findings: Perception of Bangladesh’s Weaknesses and Strengths ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
There were clearly disconnects between the different groups in early 2008… ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Almost a year later, there is more convergence among the groups in terms of what has been done and what needs to be done ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Pyramid of needs- industry is maturing Changes in work culture:  CSR Better treatment by managers and owners Basic working conditions: higher wages,  health, safety, child care 2004 2007-- 2008--
The sector has come a long way… ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
How can the sector explode? ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
New body of literature argues that in the post-MFA era, low costs are not simply enough ,[object Object]
Need to invest in order to remain competitive ,[object Object]
BG can raise its costs, invest in infrastructure, human resources, and technology, and still be competitive ,[object Object]
External players can continue to influence positive changes ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Producing garments, from start to finish- 1
Producing garments, from start to finish- 2

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Saxena

  • 1. South Asian Studies Association Brown Bag Radio The following slides accompany a live webcast/podcast and are part of the South Asian Studies Association’s Brown Bag Radio initiative. Information on SASA can be found at http://www.sasia.org . BBR podcasts are archived at http://www.brownbagradio.net . Slide shows are the intellectual property of their respective presenters. Sanchita B. Saxena Competitiveness in the Garment and Textiles Industry: A Case Study of Bangladesh
  • 2. Competitiveness in the Garment and Textiles Industry: A Case Study of Bangladesh Sanchita B. Saxena, Ph.D Vice Chair, Center for South Asia Studies UC Berkeley January 14, 2009 This research was supported by funding from The Asia Foundation and the International and Area Studies Division at UC Berkeley.
  • 3.
  • 4. Total apparel exports from Bangladesh (1994-2006) in millions of USD Data compiled from the BGMEA
  • 5. % of Bangladesh’s RMG export to its total exports Data compiled from the BGMEA 60.64 1992-93 73.28 1997-98 75.14 2000-01 35.24 1988-89 76.04 2006-07 74.79 2003-04 50.47 1990-91 16.05 1985-86 3.89 1983-84 % of RMG to total Year
  • 6.
  • 7.
  • 8.
  • 9. Relationship among the stakeholders End of the MFA Decision making by International Buyers - Do we continue to source from Bangladesh? Government: National level policy changes to improve competitiveness Factory owners : Changes at factory level to improve competitiveness Middle managers: Changes at factory level to improve competitiveness Factory workers Quality product International NGOs
  • 10.
  • 11.
  • 12.
  • 13.
  • 14.
  • 15.
  • 16. Findings: Factory competitiveness (in order of importance)- 1 International Retailer Factory Owners Low cost Training of workers Pre-production assisting/ Ability to deal with sophisticated designs/materials Technological advancements Living wages for workers Long standing prior relationship with your buyer Ability to deal with sophisticated designs/materials Good working conditions/ Healthcare Speed to market/ Labor standards Productivity of workers Low cost/ Productivity/ Quality/ Pre-production assisting/ Reliability Speed to market
  • 17.
  • 18.
  • 19.
  • 20.
  • 21.
  • 22. Exports to the U.S. between 2007-2008 of Bangladesh and its competitors Data from the U.S. Dept. of Commerce, Office of Textiles and Apparel
  • 23.
  • 24.
  • 25.
  • 26.
  • 27. Pyramid of needs- industry is maturing Changes in work culture: CSR Better treatment by managers and owners Basic working conditions: higher wages, health, safety, child care 2004 2007-- 2008--
  • 28.
  • 29.
  • 30.
  • 31.
  • 32.
  • 33.
  • 34. Producing garments, from start to finish- 1
  • 35. Producing garments, from start to finish- 2