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Shyamoli Textile Engineering College
(A constituent institution of The University of Dhaka)
Industrial Attachment On
South East Textiles Pvt. Ltd.
(Interstoff Group)
Gorai, Mirzapur, Tangail.
Submitted By
Amanuzzaman
ID: TE-69/17
DU Reg: 499
Level-4, Term-2
Department of Fabric Manufacturing,
Shyamoli Textile Engineering College.
Submitted To
Md. Lutfur Rahman
Lecturer,
Department Of Fabric Manufacturing
Shyamoli Textile Engineering College.
Page No 2
Shyamoli Textile
Engineering College
Acknowledgment
Several people have made significant contributions in preparing this report. Their insights,
advice, and suggestions helped me a lot. I would like to pay special thanks to Thakur Alauddin
Ahmed, Director, Shyamoli Textile Engineering College, for continuously guiding us about the
development and preparation of the report. He has enriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for
incessant improvement of the report. I would also like to express my heartfelt thanks to my
supervising teacher Md. Mizanur Rahman Khan, Lecturer, Department of Fabric Manufacturing,
Shyamoli Textile Engineering College & Md. Lutfur Rahman, Lecturer, Department of Fabric
Manufacturing, Shyamoli Textile Engineering College, For his encouragement & valuable
suggestions for incessant improvement of this report.
We would like to express our foremost gratitude to other officials of South East Textiles (Pvt.)
Ltd.(SETL), especially our internship coordinator Md. Ekramul Hasan (Assistant Manager,
Merchandising), Md. Mahbub Hasan (Div. Sr. Merchandiser, Merchandising) and Musfiqur
Rahman (Assistant Manager, Fabrics, Interstoff Knitting Ltd.).
We would also like to express our deep sense of gratitude and thanks to the Assistant Manager
of the knitting section for guiding us. We would like to convey our best regards to all the officials
and workers of the South East Textiles (Pvt.) Ltd. (SETL), Interstoff Knitting Ltd. (IKL) and
Interstoff Apparels Ltd. (IAL). We especially like to thank our parents & all of our family members
for extending their helping hand at a time when we need it most.
We remember all the care and love of our friends who made our every existence more
meaningful and worthy. Finally, we would like to put special thanks to the authority of Interstoff
Group for allowing us into their organization.
Page No 3
Shyamoli Textile
Engineering College
Table of Contents
Acknowledgment.................................................................................................................................... 2
Introduction............................................................................................................................................. 8
Chapter 01
Description of Project
Company Profile..................................................................................................................................... 9
History of The Project Development ...................................................................................................... 9
Different Departments .......................................................................................................................... 10
Physical Infrastructure .......................................................................................................................... 10
Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 11
Site Location......................................................................................................................................... 11
Chapter 02
Man Power Management
Management System............................................................................................................................. 12
Organogram of Manpower Administration .......................................................................................... 12
Board of Directors........................................................................................................................... 12
Organogram of Knitting Section..................................................................................................... 12
Organization South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. ................................................................................... 13
Organization of Dyeing Section:..................................................................................................... 14
Shift Change.................................................................................................................................... 14
Shift Change for worker.................................................................................................................. 15
General shift for staff ...................................................................................................................... 15
Responsibilities of Production Officer ................................................................................................. 15
Job Description of P.O & S.P.O...................................................................................................... 15
Purpose............................................................................................................................................ 15
Chapter 03
Machine Description
List of Machineries............................................................................................................................... 16
Page No 4
Shyamoli Textile
Engineering College
Knitting section ............................................................................................................................... 16
Dyeing section................................................................................................................................. 16
Finishing section ............................................................................................................................. 16
Knitting Machine Specification............................................................................................................ 16
Layout Plan of Dyeing Section............................................................................................................. 18
Dyeing Machine Specification.............................................................................................................. 18
Finishing Section Layout...................................................................................................................... 20
Machine Description for Finishing Section .................................................................................... 20
Specification of Machines in Lab ......................................................................................................... 21
Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 22
Chapter 04
Raw Material, Store & Inventory Control
Raw Materials....................................................................................................................................... 23
Types of Raw Materials .................................................................................................................. 23
Raw Materials Sources.................................................................................................................... 23
Knitting Raw Material..................................................................................................................... 23
List of Chemicals Used ................................................................................................................... 27
Annual Requirements ........................................................................................................................... 28
Inventory System of Raw Material....................................................................................................... 28
Scope of Inventory Control................................................................................................................... 28
Spares.................................................................................................................................................... 29
Finished Goods Inventory..................................................................................................................... 29
Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 29
Chapter 5
Knitting Section
Knitting................................................................................................................................................. 30
Different sections of Knitting.......................................................................................................... 30
Sequence of Operations in Knitting Section ................................................................................... 30
Process Flow Chart for Knitting...................................................................................................... 31
Types of Fabric Produce in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. .................................................................. 31
Considerable Points to Produce Knitted Fabrics............................................................................. 33
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Production Parameter ...................................................................................................................... 33
Different Parameter in Knitting Machine........................................................................................ 33
Basic Knitting Elements.................................................................................................................. 34
Different Parts Of Knitting Machine............................................................................................... 34
Faults & Remedies of Knitting Fabrics........................................................................................... 38
Different knitting machineries.............................................................................................................. 42
Chapter 06
Production Planning Sequence & Operation
Batch Section........................................................................................................................................ 43
Function or purpose of the batch..................................................................................................... 43
Proper batching criteria ................................................................................................................... 43
Batch management .......................................................................................................................... 43
Remarks........................................................................................................................................... 43
Physical Laboratory .............................................................................................................................. 44
Lab department................................................................................................................................ 44
Sequence of Lab Operations ........................................................................................................... 44
Soda & Salt Calculation.................................................................................................................. 45
Procedure for 100% Cotton Fabric: ................................................................................................ 46
Dyeing Section...................................................................................................................................... 46
Production Parameters .......................................................................................................................... 47
Process for Dyeing Cotton .............................................................................................................. 47
Procedure of Scouring-Bleaching ................................................................................................... 47
Main Parts of The Machines ........................................................................................................... 48
Common Dyeing Faults with Their Remedies................................................................................ 49
Average Production......................................................................................................................... 51
Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 51
Finishing Section .................................................................................................................................. 52
Objective of finishing...................................................................................................................... 52
Description of Finishing Process..................................................................................................... 52
Average Production......................................................................................................................... 55
Remarks........................................................................................................................................... 55
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Chapter 07
Quality Assurance
Quality Assurance System.................................................................................................................... 56
Objects of Quality Control.............................................................................................................. 56
Quality Assurance Procedure................................................................................................................ 56
Online Q.C ...................................................................................................................................... 56
Offline Test Done in This Factory .................................................................................................. 57
Quality Assurance Procedure.......................................................................................................... 58
Quality Standard ................................................................................................................................... 58
Quality Control in Grey Fabric Inspection...................................................................................... 60
Quality Control in Dyeing & Finishing........................................................................................... 60
Procedure of The Different Tests.......................................................................................................... 61
Color Fastness Test Procedure ........................................................................................................ 61
Color Fastness To Wash Test.......................................................................................................... 61
Color Fastness To Water Test ......................................................................................................... 62
Color Fastness To Perspiration Test................................................................................................ 62
Color The Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet) ................................................................................ 63
Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality)....................................................... 63
Light Box......................................................................................................................................... 64
Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 65
Chapter 08
Maintenance
Maintenance.......................................................................................................................................... 66
Objectives of Maintenance.............................................................................................................. 66
Maintenance of Machinery ................................................................................................................... 66
Manpower Set-Up for Maintenance ..................................................................................................... 67
Maintenance Procedure......................................................................................................................... 67
Maintenance Tools & Equipment & Their Functions .......................................................................... 68
Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 69
Chapter 09
Utility Services
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Utility Facilities Available.................................................................................................................... 70
Sources of Utilities................................................................................................................................ 70
Capacity & Other Technical Details..................................................................................................... 70
Power (Electricity) .......................................................................................................................... 70
Steam............................................................................................................................................... 71
Compressed Air............................................................................................................................... 71
Water ............................................................................................................................................... 71
Gas................................................................................................................................................... 72
Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 72
Chapter 10
Cost Analysis
Costing of The Product......................................................................................................................... 73
Price of the Product............................................................................................................................... 73
Remark.................................................................................................................................................. 73
Chapter 11
Marketing Activities
Consumer of The Products ................................................................................................................... 74
Importing Countries.............................................................................................................................. 74
Exporting Countries.............................................................................................................................. 74
Manpower of Marketing ....................................................................................................................... 74
Marketing Strategy ............................................................................................................................... 74
Price Quotation ..................................................................................................................................... 75
Duties & Responsibilities of Marketing Officer................................................................................... 75
Job summery ................................................................................................................................... 75
Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 75
Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................ 76
Page No 8
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Introduction
Utilizing practical knowledge it's not possible to apply theoretical knowledge in the practical
field. For any technical education, practical experience is almost equally important in association
with theoretical knowledge.
The industrial attachment is the process, which builds the understanding, skills, and attitude
of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University
education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, in spite of all
these industrial attachment helps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skills
about various processing stages.
It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work-study,
efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery and their
operation techniques, etc. the above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully utilizing theoretical
knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge on which it is
based. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed to the industrial atmosphere and
improves courage and inspiration to take self-responsibility.
Textile education cannot be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial
training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and makes us accustomed
to the industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete a two-month-long industrial. Training
at South East Textiles (Pvt.) Ltd, which is a 100% export-oriented composite Industry. It has well-
planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and garments units in addition to facilitating knitting
and knitwear manufacturing.
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Chapter 01
Description of Project
Company Profile
Name : South East Textiles (Pvt.) Ltd
Nature of the Company : Private Limited Company
Group Name : Interstoff Group
Type : 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.
Year of establishment : 2010
Location : Gorai, Mirzapur, Tangail
Certification & awards : Wrap, ISO 9001:2000, FLO, CTPAT certified.
Production capacity- Knitting : 9-9.5 ton/day
Dyeing : 15-16 ton/day
Garments : 60,000 pieces/day
Printing : 50,000 panels/day
Embroidery : 6,500 panels/day
Sewing : 40,000 pcs/day
Sampling : 650 units/day
Total Volume : 3,87,092 sqr. ft.
Total Revenue Income : 40 Million (Approx.)
Total Manpower : 3679 (Officer & Staff – 465 , Worker – 3214)
The production capacity of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is an approximate idea, it may vary.
Project cost : US$ 20 million per year.
Total area : Total floor space is 2, 00,000 sft.
Sponsor : Bangladesh and UK joint venture
Main Production : Basic T-Shirt, Long Sleeve, T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Pajama, Ladies, Kids
Knitwear & all kinds of knit Garments & Knit fabrics.
History of The Project Development
INTERSTOFF Group started their business by some knitting m/c in 2002. Then at the end of
2004, they started their fabric processing plant and after that gradually they expanded their garments
section and print shop.
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Different Departments
Physical Infrastructure
` The mill is built in such a way that there is possibility for further expansion of the mill. The
structure such as mill, office buildings, record rooms, guardrooms & dining room etc. are made of
solid hard concrete & brick mtls. The whole area is surrounded by safety brick wall .The main set
KNITTING SECTION Knitting
Inspection
DYEING SECTION Grey inspection
Batching section
Dye house
Finishing section
Lab and Q.C.
Quality control (on line)
PRINT SHOP Sample section
Production section
GARMENTS
SECTION
Product development
Production merchandising
Sample section
Spreading and cutting section
CAD & CAM section
Sewing section
Finishing section
MAINTENACNE
SECTION
Electrical
Mechanical
STORAGE SECTION Yarn Storage
Fabric Storage
Chemical Storage
Trimmings & Accessories Storage
Garment Storage
SUPPORTING
DEPARTMENT
personnel administration
HR
Procurement
Marketing
Finance and accounting
Security department
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Engineering College
up for m/c’s are built of corrugated iron & iron sheet, transparent hard plastics with enough
ventilation & scope for passing light & air.
Remarks
South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is a profitable project and contributes the economy of our
country.
Site Location
South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd is situated in Gorai, Mirzapur, Tangail. Dhaka,about fifty
kilometers far from Gorai.
There are two easy ways to go from Dhaka.
o Mohammadpur-Mohakhali-Uttara-Abdullahpur-Ashulia-Bipilechandra-pollibidut-Chandra-
Gorai-South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd.
o Mohammadpur-Shyamoli-Gabtoli-Savar-Nobinogor-Bipile-chandra-Gorai-South East
Textiles (Pvt) Ltd.
Page No 12
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Chapter 02
Man Power Management
Management System
The company has skilled administration, management, and marketing team guided by
proficient, dexterous & experienced leaders of offer the right solution for the consumers with the
right eminence & with the shortest lead -time for the export market in Bangladesh. The best use
of continuous development of human resources by providing them the International standard of equal
opportunity is the key for achieving comprehensive competence in all levels of the organizational
hierarchy.
Organogram of Manpower Administration
Board of Directors
o Mr. Nazim Uddin, Chairman.
o Mr. Shahriar Alam, Managing Director
Organogram of Knitting Section
Knitting Manager
Assistant knitting manager
Senior Production Officer
Production officer
Asst. Production officer
Junior Production Officer
Supervisor
Operator
Helper
Page No 13
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Organization South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd.
Figure 1 Organization flow chart of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd.
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Organization of Dyeing Section:
General Manager Deputy
General Manager
Manager
Deputy Production Manager
Asst. Production Manager
Sr. Production Officer
Production Officer
Supervisor
Asst. Supervisor
Sr. Operator
Operator Asst.
Operator
Helper
Shift Change
There are three shifts in the industry. So, the shifts are changed at every 8 hours.
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Shift Change for worker
o Shift A – 06.00 - 02.00 Pm
o Shift B – 02.00 - 10.00 Pm
o Shift C – 10.00 - 06.00 Pm
General shift for staff
o Shift A– 08:00 – 20:00
o Shift B– 20:00 – 08:00
Management personal work on a general shift of duration 9.00 am to 6.00 pm and 6 days per week.
Responsibilities of Production Officer
o To check recipe according to lab dip
o To check shade
o To m/c plan
o To check the dyeing process
o To manage floor
o To accelerate in arranging batch
o To carry out the order of the production manager
Job Description of P.O & S.P.O
Job title: Production officer & Senior Production officer.
Report to: Production Manager.
Purpose
To control shift according to the plan made by the production manager
Shift in charge: 1
Supervisor: 1
Page No 16
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Chapter 03
Machine Description
List of Machineries
Knitting section
Single jersey 47
Rib machine 11
Interlock m/c 07
Fleece m/c 15
Engineering Stripe Machine 04
Flat bed 37
Grey Fabric Inspection 04
Dyeing section
Sample dyeing machine 11
Bulk dyeing machine 10
Finishing section
Slitter 02
Dewatering Machine 02
Stenter 02
Dryer 01
Tube compactor 01
Open width compactor 01
Inspection Machine 01
Turning Machine 01
Knitting Machine Specification
Specification Of Circular Knitting Machine
Serial Machine Brand Origin M/C dia Gauge QTY
1 Single jersey Fukahama Taiwan 24" 24 01 SET
2 " Fukahama " 25" 24 02 SET
3 " Fukahama " 26" 24 04 SET
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4 " Tien Yang Taiwan 34" 24 01 SET
5 " Tien Yang " 36" 24 01 SET
6 " Well-knit " 34" 24 02 SET
7 " TERROT Germany 26" 24 03 SET
8 " TERROT " 30" 24 13 SET
9 " TERROT " 34" 24 12 SET
10 " TERROT " 36" 24 06 SET
11 RIB Fukahama Taiwan 36" 18 01 SET
12 " TERROT Germany 30" 18 01 SET
13 " TERROT " 34" 18 01 SET
14 " TERROT " 36" 18 01 SET
15 " TERROT " 38" 18 01 SET
16 " Pai Lung Taiwan 36" 18 06 SET
17 Interlock TERROT " 36" 24 01 SET
18 " Tien Yang " 30" 24 01 SET
19 " Fukahama " 34" 24 01 SET
20 " Fukahama " 36" 24 04 SET
21 Fleece Tien Yang Taiwan 30" 20 02 SET
22 " Tien Yang " 32" 20 02 SET
23 " Tien Yang " 34" 20 01 SET
24 " Fukahama " 28" 20 02 SET
25 " Fukahama " 30" 20 01 SET
26 " Goang Lih Japan 34" 20 06 SET
27 Auto/ Engr.
Stripe
JUMBARCA Spain 30" 24 01 SET
28 " MAYER & CIE Germany 30" 24 03 SET
Total No of Machines 81 SET
Figure 2 Circular knitting machine specification
Specification Of Flat Bed Knitting Machine
Serial machine Brand Origin M/C dia Gauge QTY
1 Flat bed JY-LEH Taiwan 54" 14 07 SET
2 " MATSUYA Japan 40" 14 04 SET
3 " LEADING TIGER China 40" 14 01 SET
4 " KAUD-HENG Taiwan 54" 14 04 SET
5 " LEADING TIGER China 60" 14 06 SET
6 " PROTTI Italy 84" 14 05 SET
7 " MATSUYA Japan 80" 14 10 SET
Total No of Machines 37 SET
Figure 3 Flatbed knitting machine specification
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Layout Plan of Dyeing Section
Figure 4 Dyeing layout plan
Dyeing Machine Specification
Dyeing Machines:
In SETL. There are 21 dyeing machines. Among them 11 are sample dyeing machine and 10 are
bulk dyeing machine. The description and specifications of the machine are given below-
M/c no: 01
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: Thies
Max. Temp: 98ºC
Origin: Germany
Capacity: 630 kg
Nozzel: 03
M/c no: 02
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: Thies
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Germany
Capacity: 450 kg
Nozzle: 03
M/c no: 03
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: Thies.
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Germany
Capacity: 450 kg
Nozzle: 03
M/c no: 04
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: Thies. Max.
Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 270 kg
Nozzle: 01
M/c no: 05
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: DILMENLER
Max. Temp: 140ºC
Origin: Turkey
Capacity: 900 kg.
Nozzle: 03
Page No 19
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M/c no: 06
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: DILMENLER
Max. Temp: 140ºC
Origin: Turkey
Capacity: 600kg
Nozzle: 02
M/c no: 07
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: FONG’S
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: China.
Capacity: 600 kg.
Nozzle: 03
M/c no: 08
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 250 kg
Nozzle: 02
M/c no: 09
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 100 kg
Nozzle: 01
M/c no: 10
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: Textlink.
Max. Temp: N/A
Origin: N/A
Capacity: 120 kg.
Nozzle: 01
Sample dyeing M/c no:
01
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: THIES
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 30 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
02
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: THIES.
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 20 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
03
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: THIES
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 20 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
04
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: THIES
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 10 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
05
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: THIES
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 35 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
06
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 20 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
07
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 30 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
08
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 50 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
09
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: TEXLINK
Max. Temp: N/A
Origin: N/A
Capacity: 65 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
10
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: TEXLINK
Max. Temp: N/A
Origin: N/A
Capacity: 120 kg
Sample dyeing M/c no:
11
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Page No 20
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Engineering College
Brand: SONTECH
Max. Temp: 140ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 275 kg
Finishing Section Layout
Figure 5 Finishing section layout
Machine Description for Finishing Section
The finishing section is consisting of two lines. They are–
o Tube line
o Open line
The machine that is used for open line are given below –
o Slitting and Dewatering machine.
o Stenter machine
o Compactor machine
The machines that are used for tube line are given below –.
o Dewatering machine
o Dryer
o Compactor machine
Finishing Machine Specification:
o Name: Dewatering m/c
Brand Name: AB CALATOR
Company Name: AIRTEX
CALATOR
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Engineering College
Origin: Sweden
o Name: Dryer
Brand Name: suntex group
Origin: Switzerland
o Name: Monti Tube Compactor
Brand Name: Monti
Origin: Italy
o Name: Compactor (open) Brand
Name: Lafer
Origin: Italy
o Name: Slitter & Dewatering m/c.
Brand Name: bianco Origin:
Germany
o Name: Stenter m/c (4 chamber)
Brand Name: BRUCKNER Origin:
Germany
o Name: Stenter m/c (5 chamber)
Brand Name: BRUCKNER
Origin: Germany
Specification of Machines in Lab
Yarn tester
M/c code : m003
M/c name : Yarn tester
Masde in : Ittaly
Installation date : 08.01.2008
Hanna ph meter
M/c code : M006
M/c name : Hanna ph tester
Made in : Iportugal
Installation date : 20.03.2008
Electric balance
M/c name : Electric balance
Made by : Canada
Supplier : Eoaches
Installation date : 06.07.2004
Carbulite
M/c name : Carbulite
Made in : England
Supplier : Maizime trading company
Installation date : 06.09.2004
Sample dryer
M/c code : m19
M/c name : Sample dryer
Made in : Spain
Supplier : Maizime trading company
Installation date : 06.09.2004
Conditioning cabinet m/c name
Name : Conditioning Cabinet
Made in : USA
Sunflower washing m/c
Origin : China
Brand : Sunflower
Installation date : 01-10-07
Fisher& payled washing m/c
Origin : UK
Brand : Fisher & paylsel
Wascator FOM71 CLS
Origin : Sweden
Brand : Electrolux
Installation date : 06-09-04
M223/2 precision tumble dryer
Origin : England
Brand : SDLATLAS
Installation date : 04-04-09
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Washtec-p
Origin : England
Brand : Roaches
Installation date : 06-09-04
Conditioning cabinet
Origin : China
Brand : Shanghai sansher medical
instrument company Ltd
Installation date : 10-06-06
Deiomizer
Origin : Uk
Brand : Elga
Installation date : 05-06-06
Spectrophotometer
Origin : USA
Brand : Data color international
Installation date : 06-09-04
Lab dyeing machine double bath
Name : Infrared pyrotec
Made by : Roaches
Made in : England
Supplier : Roaches
Crock meter
Made by : Roaches England
Made in : England
Supplier : roaches
Remarks
Most of the dyeing and finishing machinery of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is conventional
and old especially the Theis machines and the Fongs machine are quite backdated, the dewatering
machine as well. Recently they improving their dyeing and finishing machine.
Page No 23
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Chapter 04
Raw Material, Store & Inventory Control
Raw Materials
Raw material is a unique substance in any production-oriented textile industry. It plays a
vital role in continuous production and for high-quality fabric.
Types of Raw Materials
1. Yarn
2. Fabric
3. Dyestuff
4. Chemical and auxiliaries
Raw Materials Sources
1. YARN:
Cotton Yarn:
▪ ARMAN Spinning Mill.
▪ NAHAR Spinning Mill.
▪ AKIJ Spinning Mill.
▪ BEXIMCO Spinning Mill.
Polyester Yarn: India
Lycra: Singapore, Indonesia, Korea, Japan
2. FABRIC:
▪ INTERSTOFF KNITTING LTD.
▪ SOUTH EAST TEXTILE LTD.
Knitting Raw Material
Cotton 24S
, 26s
,30S
, 32S
,34S
,40S
Polyester 75D, l00D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D
Grey Mélange 24S,26S
Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S
,26S
,28S
Anthra Mélange (C-65% V-35%) 24S
,26S
,28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S
,26S
,28S
,30S
CVC 24S
,26S
,28S
,30S
Page No 24
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FABRIC:
Again, grey fabric of following construction is commonly are dyed
• Single jersey
• Single jersey with lycra
• Polo pique
• Single lacoste
• Fleece
• Interlock
• Rib
• Rib with lycra
• 1Χ1 rib 2Χ2 rib
• Different types of collar & cuffs.
The knitting section of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is not sufficient enough to supply all the fabric
needed by fabric processing plant. It is capable to fulfill only one forth the fabric processing plant’s
demand. Rest of the grey fabric needed is knitted in other industries through sub contract.
CHEMICALS
• Dyes.
• Chemicals
• Auxiliaries.
DYES:
LIST OF DYES USED IN SOUTH EAST TEXTILES (PVT) LTD.
Sl. Name of the Dyes Type Source
01 Ciba Yellow FN2R Reactive Dye Swiss Color
02 Ciba Red FNR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
03 Ciba Red FN2BL Reactive Dye Swiss Color
04 Ciba Blue FNR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
05 Ciba Br. Blue FNG Reactive Dye Swiss Color
06 Ciba Red FN3F Reactive Dye Swiss Color
07 Ciba Yellow F4G Reactive Dye Swiss Color
08 Ciba Scarlet F3G Reactive Dye Swiss Color
09 Ciba Yellow WR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
10 Ciba Red WB Reactive Dye Swiss Color
11 Ciba Navy WB Reactive Dye Swiss Color
12 Ciba Dk. Blue WR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
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13 Ciba Red HF Reactive Dye Swiss Color
14 Ciba Orange HR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
15 Ciba Navy H2G Reactive Dye Swiss Color
16 Ciba Black WHF Reactive Dye Swiss Color
17 Drim Yellow HFR Reactive Dye Clariant
18 Drim Red HF2B Reactive Dye Clariant
19 Drim Blue HFRL Reactive Dye Clariant
20 Drim Yellow CL2R Reactive Dye Clariant
21 Drim Red CL5B Reactive Dye Clariant
22 Drim Navy CLB Reactive Dye Clariant
23 Drim Orange CL3R Reactive Dye Clariant
24 Drim Yellow CL3GL Reactive Dye Clariant
25 Drim Turquis CLB Reactive Dye Clariant
26 Drim Turquis K2B Reactive Dye Clariant
27 Remazol Yellow RR Reactive Dye Dyestar
28 Remazol Red RR Reactive Dye Dyestar
29 Remazol Blue RR Reactive Dye Dyestar
30 Remazol Br Blue
(RSPL)
Reactive Dye Dyestar
31 Remazol Blue BB Reactive Dye Dyestar
32 Remazol T/Blue G Reactive Dye Dyestar
33 Remazol Yellow 3RS Reactive Dye Dyestar
34 Remazol Red 3BS Reactive Dye Dyestar
35 Dianx Yellow SEG Disperse Dychufix
36 Dianx Red CC Disperse Dychufix
37 Dianx Navy CC Disperse Dychufix
38 Sunfix Yellow EXF Reactive Dye Sumitomo
39 Sunfix Red EXF Reactive Dye Sumitomo
40 Sunfix Blue EXF Reactive Dye Sumitomo
41 Sunfix Blue BRF Reactive Dye Sumitomo
42 Sunfix Yellow S3RD Reactive Dye Sumitomo
43 Sunfix Red S3BD Reactive Dye Sumitomo
44 Remazol Yellow GR Reactive Dye Dyestar
45 Remazol Red F3S Reactive Dye Dyestar
46 Remazol Navy Blue RGB Reactive Dye Dyestar
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47 Remazol G. Yellow RNB Reactive Dye Dyestar
48 Bezactive Red VBN Reactive Dye Bezema
49 Bezactive Yellow V2R Reactive Dye Bezema
50 Foron Red SWF Reactive Dye N/A
51 Foron Navy SWF Reactive Dye N/A
52 Dianix Blue ER Disperse Dychufix
53 Dianix Black CCR Disperse Dychufix
54 Kemifix Yellow FRL Reactive Dye N/A
55 Kemifix Red 3BS Reactive Dye N/A
56 Kemifix Red F6B Reactive Dye N/A
57 Kemifix Yellow 4G Reactive Dye N/A
58 Kemifix Blue F2R Reactive Dye N/A
59 Kemifix Orange 2RL Reactive Dye N/A
60 Impozyn Black VB Reactive Dye Impo color
61 Impozyn Red 3BF Reactive Dye Impo color
62 Impozyn Yellow E3R Reactive Dye Impo color
63 Impozyn Blue V3R Reactive Dye Impo color
64 Impozyn T. Blue VG Reactive Dye Impo color
65 Impozyn Br. Orange V3R Reactive Dye Impo color
66 Tera Yellow W4G Disperse Swiss Color
67 Tera G. Yellow W3R Disperse Swiss Color
68 Tera Navy WRS Disperse Swiss Color
69 Tera Red W4BS Disperse Swiss Color
70 Tera Blue WBLS Disperse Swiss Color
71 Tera Black WNS Disperse Swiss Color
72 Tera Black BFE Disperse Swiss Color
73 Drimarin G. Yellow K2R Reactive Dye Clariant
74 Drimarin Blue CLBR Reactive Dye Clariant
75 Drimarin Blue K2RL Reactive Dye Clariant
76 Remazol Carbon RGB Reactive Dye Dyestar
77 Remazol Black B Reactive Dye Dyestar
78 Remazol Red RB Reactive Dye Dyestar
79 Levafix Blue CA Reactive Dye Dyestar
80 Levafix Rubine CA Reactive Dye Dyestar
81 Levafix Amber CA Reactive Dye Dyestar
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82 Ciba Yellow HG Reactive Dye Swiss Color
83 Ciba Blue HRN Reactive Dye Swiss Color
84 Ciba Red HBL Reactive Dye Swiss Color
85 Ciba Orange EBR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
86 Solacion Yellow HEXL Reactive Dye N/A
87 Solacion Red HEXL Reactive Dye N/A
88 Bezactive Turquis VGC Reactive Dye Bezema
Figure 6 List of dyes.
List of Chemicals Used
Acid
• Acetic acid
• Hydrochloric Acid
Detergent
• Sandoclean PCLE
• Levelling Agent
• Drimazine E2R
Sequestering Agent
• LanapexHTS
• Salt
• Gluber Salt
• Common Salt
Softener
• SoftamineCL
• Sapamine CWS
• Dekol SN
Fixing Agent
• Cyclonol ERL
Reducing Agent
• Hydrose
Bleaching Agent
• H2O2
Enzyme
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• Bioace
• Tinozyme 44L
Stabilize
• apex HPST
Anticreasing Agent
• Depsolube ACA
P H Controller
• Acid
• Soda Ash
• Caustic soda
Per-oxide Killer
• Na Thiosuphite
Annual Requirements
To determine annual requirements is very tuff. It mainly depends on the buyer order and
subcontract order. When the buyer order is large then the consumption is high and vice-versa.
The annual requirements of grey fabric depend on the buyer order and the requirements of
dyes and chemicals depend on the color depth.
Inventory System of Raw Material
It is previously spoken that South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is a knit composite industry. The
main raw material of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. (SETL) is gray fabric. Grey fabric first produced
in knitting department of this company. Knitting section of SETL produced grey fabric as per buyer’s
order & requirements. Dyeing section get the produced grey fabric from knitting section. Grey fabric
store officer received the grey fabric and store the grey fabric in storeroom. Then he delivers the grey
fabric to batch preparation section according to shipment date or according to production manager
of dyeing section instruction.
Other raw materials of SETL are dyes and chemicals. Dyes and chemicals store officer always
keep stock report of dyes and chemicals and also know the daily or monthly requirements of every
dye or chemical. If the stock is bellowing 45 days, then he gives requisition to head office for each
product. Head office indent dyes and chemicals.
FREQUENTLY INVENTORY CONTROL:
▪ Monthly inventory control.
▪ Annual inventory control.
Scope of Inventory Control
Raw materials:
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▪ Dyes store.
▪ Other chemicals.
▪ Grey fabrics.
▪ Finished fabric.
▪ Spare parts.
General store:
▪ Capital equipment.
▪ Accessories.
▪ Stationary.
▪ Maintenance parts.
Spares
Spare store officer keeps the spare part in store & make a list of spare parts. If the spare parts
are little in stock, he gives requisition to maintenance manager. Technical manager give requisition
to Head office. Head office indent spare parts or buy local market as per requirements.
Finished Goods Inventory
Finish fabrics from the compactor go to inspection team. From the inspection table the fabric
weighted in weight meter & go to finish fabric storeroom. Here finished fabric store officer make a
list of total finished products. He sends the finished fabric to the garments section as per shipment
date or requirements of general manager of garments section. He also keeps the delivery list.
Remarks
For smooth running of a factory uninterrupted supply of raw materials is very essential. As
soon as I saw the raw material control of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is good.
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Chapter 5
Knitting Section
Knitting
Knitting is the process of creating fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarn. Each row of
such loops hanging from the one immediately preceding it. There are two types of knitted fabric-
Warp knitted fabric: Each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread
and the number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in a
horizontal row.
Weft knitted fabric: A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread and the thread runs in
horizontal direction.
Different sections of Knitting
1. Inspection section
2. Flat knitting section
3. Circular Knitting section
4. Store section
Cloth Inspection Section:
In cloth inspection section four machines are available.
Flat Knitting Section:
Generally, collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section.
Circular Knitting Section:
This section contains 70 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting machines are of different
types, made by different manufacturer and also have different specifications. In this section body
fabric for knitted garments is produced. The different specifications of different machines are given
one after another
Store section:
In this section knitted fabric and yarns are stored.
Sequence of Operations in Knitting Section
Sample Fabric
Design Analysis
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Setting the Machine for Specific Design
Sample making for production
Quality Verification
Production
Fabric Inspection
Send To Batching
Process Flow Chart for Knitting
Yarn in package form
Place the yarn package in the creel
Feeding the yarn
Set the m/c as per design & gsm
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering
Types of Fabric Produce in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd.
1. Single Jersey
2. Single Lacoste
3. Double Lacoste
4. P/C Lycra
5. Baby Terry
6. Fleece fabric
7. Pique
8. 2*2 RIB
9. 1*1 RIB
10. Lycra
11. Stripe fabric
12. Grey Mélange
13. Mesh
14. Waffle
15. Herringbone
jersey
16. Mesh Pique
17. Mini pique
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S/J Fabric Waffle Fabric Warp Step Fabric
Separation Fabric Hearingbone Fabric Fleece Fabric
Slab s/j Fabric Mesh Fabric Gray Melange
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Considerable Points to Produce Knitted Fabrics
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production & quality.
Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These are follows-
1. Type of fabric or design of fabric.
2. Fabric composition.
3. Finished G.S.M
4. Yarn count.
5. Types of Yarn (combed or carded)
6. Diameter of the fabric.
7. Stitch length.
8. Color depth.
Production Parameter
o Machine Diameter;
o Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
o No. of feeds or feeders in use;
o Machine Gauge;
o Count of yarn;
o Required time (M/C running time);
o Machine running efficiency.
Different Parameter in Knitting Machine
Machine pitch: It is defined as the distance between the centers of the two adjacent needles of the
same row indicated in mm.
Machine Gauge (E):
Machine gauge denotes the number of needles per inch arranged on the needle carrier & based on
the nominal machine diameter.
Gauge (E) = (25.4/ pitch) mm.
Loops: It is a basic unit by which fabric produced & meshed at its base with previous one.
Stitch: The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabrics is the stitch. It consists of ayarn
loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loops.
Stitch length: Stitch length is the length of yarn which includes the needle loop & half the sinker
loop on either side of it. Generally, the larger the stitch length, the more extensible & lighter the
fabric & poorer the cover, opacity & brushing strength.
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Basic Knitting Elements
1. Needle
2. Sinker
3. Cam.
FUNCTION OF NEEDLES: Needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the
new loop above it on the needle steam. In general, there are three types of needles
FUNCTION OF CAM
• To produce motion of needles.
• To drive the needles.
• Formation of loops.
I n d u
FUNCTION OF SINKER
It may one or more of the following functions dependents upon the machines knitting action
& consequent sinker shape & movement.
Different Parts Of Knitting Machine
Creel:
Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Hear yarn package are store
and ready to feed in the machine
VDQ pulley:
It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality
of the product. Altering the position of the tension pulley
changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the
positive directive, then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the
reverse direction G.S.M will increase.
Pulley belt:
It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
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Brush:
Its clean the pulley belt.
Tension disk:
It confronts the tension of the supply yarn
Inlet and outlet stop motion:
It is an important parts of the machine. It stops the machine
instantly when a yarn is break.
Yarn guide:
Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder.
MPF Wheel:
Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to
the wheel.
MPF:
It is Meminger's positive feed. Is also an important part of the
machine. It’s given positive feed to the machine.
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Feeder ring:
It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together.
Feeder:
Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.
Needle:
It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Its help the
yarn to create a loop. And by this way fabric are produce.
Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to clear the old loop
from the hook, and received the new loop above it on needle
stem. The new loop is then enclosed in the needle hook as
the needle starts to descend.
Sinker:
It is most important element of the machine. Its help to loop
forming, knocking over and holding down the loop.
Needle track:
Where all needle is placed together in a decent design.
Cam box:
Where the cam are set horizontally
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Cam:
Cam is device s which converts the rotary machine drive in
to a suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other
elements.
Lycra Attachment:
Lycra is placed here. And feeding to the machine.
Sensors:
It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the
lycra is break.
Cylinder:
Needle track are situated here
Screen:
It is a digital screen. Which show the all machine
information and we can give command to the machine.
Inverter:
It is the heart of the circular knitting machine. Its control the
speed of the machine.
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Automatic oiler:
It gives the machine oil all the time properly and
automatically.
Power Switch
ON/OFF Switch:
It helps the m/c to start and stop.
Manual drive:
To drive the machine manually.
Machine motherboard:
All the Electronic parts are placed here.
Figure 7 Different knitting m/c parts
Faults & Remedies of Knitting Fabrics
Hole Mark:
Causes:
• During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
• Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
• If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
• Badly Knot or splicing
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Remedies:
• Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
• Use proper count of yarn.
• Correctly set of yarn feeder.
Needle Mark:
Causes:
• When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
• If a needle or needle hook is slightly bending then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
• Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
Sinker Mark:
Causes:
o When sinker corrode due to abrasion then sometimes cannot hold a new
o Loop as a result sinker mark comes.
o If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
o Sinker should be changed.
Star Mark:
Causes:
o Yarn tension variation during production.
o Buckling of the needle latch.
o Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
o Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
o Use good conditioned needles.
Drop Stitches:
Causes:
o Defective needle.
o If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on
to the needle hook.
o Take-down mechanism too loose.
o Insufficient yarn tension.
o Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
o Needle should be straight & well.
o Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
o Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
o Yarn tension should be properly.
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Oil stain:
Causes:
o When oil lick through the needle trick then it passes on the fabrics and
make a Line.
Remedies:
o Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
o Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
Pin hole:
Causes:
o Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
o Change the needle.
Barrie:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) stripe(s).
Causes:
o This fault comes from yarn fault.
o If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
o Different luster, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
o During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in
carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
o In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
o We can use this fabric in white color.
Fly:
Causes:
o In knitting section too much lint is flying to and for that are created from
yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or
attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
o Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
o By cleaning the floor continuously.
o By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
Yarn contamination:
Causes:
o If yarn contains foreign fiber, then it remains in the fabric even after
finishing,
o If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
o By avoiding lot, count mixing.
o Fault less spinning.
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Different faults picture of Knit Fabric
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Different knitting machineries
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Chapter 06
Production Planning Sequence & Operation
Production of the industry describe to the below sequentially given which may expresses the working
principle of every operation:
Batch Section
According to TextileGlossary.com ––
“A group of units of products of the same type, structure, color and finish, class and
composition, manufactured under essentially the same conditions and essentially at the same time,
and submitted at any one time for inspection and testing.”
Function or purpose of the batch
o To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source
o To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following parameter:
o Order sheet (Received from buyer)
o Dyeing shade (Color or white, Light or Dark)
o M/C capacity
o Fabric structure
o Yarn type, etc.
o To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor by trolley with batch card.
o To keep records for every previous dyeing.
Proper batching criteria
o To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c
o To ensure every dyeing m/c running in full production.
o To minimize the m/c washing time or preparation time.
Batch management
Primary batch is done by the dyeing manager. Batch section in charge receives this primary
batch plan from dyeing manager. Then the works is adjusting, according to m/c condition.
Remarks
Proper batch can minimize the batch-to-batch shade variation. It can near or same dyeing
condition for every batch of same shade. Thus, it improves the dyeing quantity minimize dyeing cost
a lot.
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Physical Laboratory
Lab department
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying Dyes
percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the
dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task before
bulk production.
Sequence of Lab Operations
A number of operations are done in lab section. This are-
Swatch receives (physical STD. Or reflectance value)
Fabric & dye selection
Recipe prediction
Sampling & pipetting
Dyeing
Dispatch
Fabric is always recommended by buyer & dyes selection depends upon the technician decision.
Swatch receives:
Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab section through the merchandiser.
Fabric & dye selection:
According to the buyer swatch , the type of fabric is selected &the dye selection depends on the
following factor:
o The dye stuff contains “Metamerism” or not.
o The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color.
o Sometimes buyers recommended the dye to produce particular color.
o The cost of dye stuff.
Recipe prediction:
o Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or Spectrophotometer .
o By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer.
o Then by data color software after selecting the dye some recipes are found with the best suitable
recipe comes first & then others.
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o If the recipe shows “Metamerism” then changes the selected dye.
Sampling & pipetting:
According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes & chemicals areweighted & stock solutions
are made. Then pipe ting is done according to the recipe. Stock solutions are made according to the
recipe%.
For Auxiliaries:
Salt – 20% stock solution; Soda: 10% stock solution.
Acetic Acid: 0.5 g/l;
Leveling agent: 3.5 g/l;
Detergent: 200ml/l;
Dyeing:
After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted fabric is taken in sample dyeing
Machine beaker & dyeing is completed. Here sample wt. 10gm & liquor ratio 1:8.
If the buyer chooses the sample, then the recipe is sent to the dyeing section for bulk production
through lab dip program card.
Dispatch:
After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by spectrophotometer or by eye vision in
verified matching cabinet. If it shows “Metamerism” then recipe correction is done & again samples
are prepared until no “Metamerism” & shade match occur. Then in a lab dip card 3 samples are
attached. One card is sent to merchandiser & another to buyer through merchandiser.
Soda & Salt Calculation
South East Textile (Pvt) Ltd. use the following chart for calculate the amount of salt and soda
according to the shade% -
Light shade:
M:L 1:10 Sample weight 10 gm.
Shade% G.salt(g/l) Soda (g/l) Salt-20% (g/l) Salt solid Soda-10%
(0.0001-0.5)% 30 8 22ml 4.5gm 12.0ml
Medium shade :
M:L 1:08 Sample weight 10 gm.
Shade% G.sal(g/l) Soda (g/l) Salt-20%(g/l) Salt solid Soda-10%
(0.51-1)% 40 10 16ml 3.2gm 8.0ml
(1.1-2)% 60 15 24ml 4.8gm 12.0ml
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Procedure for 100% Cotton Fabric:
o Calculate the recipe.
o Weight the fabric.
o Take the beaker keep the fabric into the beaker.
o Then the dyes, chemicals & required amount of water take in to the beaker by the digital
pipetting.
o Then weight the salt by the electric balance and add in to the beaker.
o Then the beaker set in to the lab dyeing machine for dyeing.
o Start the program for dyeing the whole dyeing time 60 min at 60°C temperature. (The dyeing
time and temperature depends on which classes of dyes are used for dyeing)
o After 30 min add the then add the soda ash. By pipetting.
o Again, run the program next 30 minute the same term.
o Finished the dyeing time then the sample taken from the beaker first Hot wash & then cold
wash.
o Then acid wash as for neutralization.
o Then soaping required soap solution 10 min at 90° C temperature.
o After the fabric again cold.
o Then dry the lab dip and compare with the standard.
Dyeing Section
FLOW CHART FOR DYEING
Batching
Select machine no.
Fabric loading
Select production program
Pretreatment
Dark shade:
M:L 1:6 Sample weight 10 gm.
Shade%
G.salt
(g/l)
Soda
(g/l)
Salt-20%
(g/l)
Salt
solid
Soda-
10%
Caustic
(g/l)
Caustic10%
(g/l)
(2.1-3)% 70 18 21ml 4.2gm 10.8ml *** ***
(3.1-5)% 80 20 24ml 4.8gm 12.0ml *** ***
(6-8)% 80 5 24ml 4.8gm 3.0ml 1.0 g/l 0.6 g/l
8%> 90 5 24ml 4.8gm 3.0ml 1.2 g/l 0.72 g/l
Figure 8 Salt & soda calculation
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Select recipe for dyeing
Recipe confirmed by PO
Dyeing
Post treatment
Unload
Production Parameters
Ph
o During h2o2 bleaching ph
9.2-12
o During reactive dyeing ph
10.5-12.5
o During disperse dyeing ph
4.5-6.0 Temperature:
o For cotton scouring: 98º
c
o For cotton cold wash: 30º
-40º
c
o For cotton hot wash: 70º
-80º
c
o For cotton acid wash: 60º
c
o for cotton dyeing: 80-85º
c (for hot brand) 65º
c (for cold brand)
o polyester dying: 130º
c
Time:
o For scouring: 40-60 minutes
o For disperses dyeing 50-60 minutes.
o For cotton dyeing 120-130minutes.
M: L ratio:
o For pretreatment M:L ratio maintained 1:7
o For reactive dyeing M:L ratio maintained 1:6
Process for Dyeing Cotton
DEMINERALIZATION PROCEDURE OR LOADING HOT
o Wetting agent + Sequestering agent
o Temperature rises up to 50°C & run the process for 30 min.
o Then drain the liquor.
SCOURING-BLEACHING PROCESS
o Scouring-Bleaching is carried out in the same both and at the same time simultaneously.
Procedure of Scouring-Bleaching
o At first required amount of water is taken in the m/c.
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o Then the fabric is loaded .
o Then Sequestering, Stabilizer is added at 500
C. For s/j annticreasing is added.
o Runtime 6 minutes.
o Then Temperature rises to 600
C.
o Then Caustic soda is added by dosing 6 minutes. Runtime 5 minutes.
o Then rise temp. to 70o
C. Then H2O2 dosing by 8 minutes. ✓ Then Keep 98 min ✓ Drain.
o Acid is transferred at 600
C. Runtime 10 minute then Drain
ENZYME WASH
o Acetic acid inject at 35°C.
o Temperature raises up to 62°C & keeping P H
=4.5–5.
o Enzyme (Bio touch C-35) is given in linear dosing process.
o Run at 55°C for 60 min.
o After that temperature raises up to 80°C & run for 10 min.
o Drain the liquor.
o Cold wash is given for (5/
-10/
).
WASHING PROCEDURE
o After B.D the fabric is washed with cold water.
o Then it is neutralized by acetic acid.
o After doing this fabric is soap washed at 80°C for 10– 20 min.
SOFTENER APPLICATION
o After washing softener is applied at 40°C for 20 min in acidic medium.
o Softener dosing is done for 8 min.
o After it the fabric is washed with cold water.
Main Parts of The Machines
o Main tank
o Preparation tank
o Pump
o Filter
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o Heat Exchanger
o Additional tank
o Lid
FILTER
The filter eliminates the loose fibers in the dye bath, consequently it reduces the loose fiber
loads on the fabric. Changing and cleaning the filters is sometimes forgotten, with the result that the
dyeing machine's nozzle pressure decreases, with the effect that running is disturbed and tangles can
occur.
Automatic self-cleaning filter system:
o No cleaning of filter.
o No pressure variation in the nozzles due to lint buildup due to automatic regulation system.
o No lint on fabric due to 100 % filtration of the circulation liquor.
ADDITIONAL TANK
Addition tank is used for:
o Color dosing
o Salt dosing
o Chemical dosing
o Auxiliaries injection
o Salt dissolving
WAYS OF LIQUOR FLOW FROM ADDITIONAL TANK TWO WAYS-
o Injection
o Dosing
o Linear dosing
o Progressive dosing
o Degressive dosing
Common Dyeing Faults with Their Remedies
UNEVEN DYEING
Causes:
o Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
o Improper color dosing.
o Using dyes of high fixation property.
o Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
o Lack of control on dyeing Machine
Remedies:
o By ensuring even pretreatment.
o By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
o Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
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o Proper controlling of dyeing Machine
BATCH TO BATCH SHADE VARIATION
Causes:
o Fluctuation of Temperature.
o Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
o Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
o Dyes lot variation.
o Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
o Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
o Use standard dyes and chemicals.
o Maintain the same liquor ratio.
o Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
o Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
o The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
PATCHY DYEING EFFECT
o Entanglement of fabric.
o Faulty injection of alkali.
o Improper addition of color.
o Due to hardness of water.
o Due to improper salt addition.
o Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
o Uneven heat in the machine, etc.
Remedies:
o By ensuring proper pretreatment.
o Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
o Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
o Proper salt addition.
Roll to Roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:
Causes:
o Poor migration property of dyes.
o Improper dyes solubility.
o Hardness of water.
o Faulty Machine speed, etc
Remedies:
o Use standard dyes and chemicals.
o Proper Machine speed.
o Use of soft water
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CREASE MARK:
Causes:
o Poor opening of the fabric rope
o Shock cooling of synthetic material
o If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
o Due to high-speed Machine running
Remedies:
o Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
o Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
o Reducing the Machine load
o Higher liquor ratio
DYE SPOT:
Causes:
o Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
o Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
o By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
o By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large
un-dissolved particles are removed
WRINKLE MARK
Causes:
o Poor opening of the fabric rope
o Shock cooling of synthetic material
o High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
o Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
o Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
o Higher liquor ratio.
Average Production
Monthly average production in dyeing floor is 240 ton.
Remarks
Yarn dyeing machine is not available in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. So, yarn dyeing is not
possible. So that yarns are dyed from other industries.
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Finishing Section
FINISHING:
After dyeing knit fabric is required to finish. During eyeing all knit fabric are dyed in tubular
form. According to buyer’s requirement knit fabric are finished in open form or tubular form.
Objective of finishing
o Improving the appearance — Luster, whiteness, etc.
o Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its softness,
suppleness, fullness, etc.
o Special properties required for particular uses — water — proofing, flame proofing, etc.
o Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
o Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Description of Finishing Process
Finishing section is divided into two sections, they are:
o Openline
o Tube line
o The machines that are used in open line that are given bellow:
o Slitting m/c
o De -watering m/c
o Stenter
o Dryer
o Open Compactor
The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow:
o De-watering m/c
o Dryer
o Tube Compactor
De-watering m/c:
After finishing the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for de-
watering. This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing. This is the
main function of the de-watering machine. But here also control some important factor of the fabric
quality
The basic function of the de-watering machine :
o To remove the water from the fabric.
o To control the width of the fabric.
o To control the length of the fabric.
o To control the spirality of the fabric.
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o To control the grain line of the fabric.
o To control the over feeding system.
Dryer:
After de-watering then the fabric is passed through the dryer. The main function of the dryer to
dry the fabric & full fill the other fabric properties according the to Buyer’s requirement. This dryer
has four chambers. The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the machine & the GSM of
the fabric. The vibration speed of the machine for heavy jersey / GSM high is 750 m/min & Single
jersey / normal GSM is 500 m/min. The temperature of the machine depends on the machine speed.
Higher the temperature of the machine; higher the the speed.
The basic function of the dryer are as follows:
o To dry the fabric.
o To control the over feed system. (Shrinkage control)
o To control the vibration. (To increase the GSM)
The temperature of different chambers according to the shade of the fabric are:
Shade Chamber 1 Chamber2 Chamber 3 Chamber 4
Light 120° C 115° C 110° C 105° C
Medium 120° C 130° C 140° C 150° C
Deep 170° C 160° C 150° C 140°C
Figure 9 Temp. Of different chamber in dryer m/c.
Tube Compactor:
The mechanism of the compactor machine is classified into four sections. In the first section,
enter the fabric into the machine by the tube form. The second section is the Edge driver. The function
of the edge driver to increase & decrease the GSM & dia of the fabric. Here also passed the steam to
soften the fabric & slightly shade match. The third section of the machine & it’s also called the
compaction station. Here to control the GSM & calendaring the fabric. There is also a blade to smooth
the fabric surface. In section four the output section of the machine. Here the fabric keeps on to the
up & down moveable table. The up & down movement of the table control with the photodetector
(Sensor). In the case of deep shade, the steam & roller pressure will be high & for light shade steaming
& roller pressure will be lower. Suppose, we input fabric GSM 220. Then we control the output GSM
maximum 225 & minimum 212.
The main function of the compactor machine:
o To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease)
o To control the dia.
o To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease) To smooth the fabric surface.
o To calendar the fabric
o Open width fabric
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Slitting m/c:
After finished the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for slitting.
The basic function of the de-watering machine:
o To slitting the fabrics.
De watering m/c:
After finished the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for de-
watering. This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing. This is the
main function of the de-watering machine. But here also control some important factor of the fabric
quality
The basic function of the de-watering machine:
o To remove the water from the fabric.
o To control the width of the fabric.
o To control the length of the fabric.
o To control the spirality of the fabric.
o To control the grainline of the fabric.
Stentering m/c:
The main mechanism of the stentering machine, underfeed roller to feed the fabric, overfeed
roller to increase and decrease GSM, spending roller to remove the crease mark, mahalo to adjust the
bowing angle, Fabric wheel to stretch the fabric and contact with the chain,
The main function of the Stentering machine:
o To control the width of the fabric.
o To control the length of the fabric.
o To control the spirality of the fabric.
o To dry the fabric.
o To control the overfeeding system
o To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease)
o To control the shrinkage of the fabric
Open Compactor:
The mechanism of the compactor machine-classified in the four sections. The section-wise
mechanism in the first section to enter the fabric into the machine by the open form. In the second
section Edge driver. The function of the edge driver to increase & decrease the GSM & dia of the
fabric. Here also passed the steam to soften the fabric & slightly shade match. This is the third section
of the machine it’s also called the compaction station. Here to control the GSM & calendaring the
fabric. Here also a blade to smooth the fabric surface. In section four the output section of the machine.
Here the fabric keeps on to the up & down moveable table. The up & down movement of the table
control with the photodetector (Sensor). In the case of deep shade, the steam & roller pressure is high
& the light shade steaming & roller pressure is low. Suppose, we input fabric GSM 220. Then we
control the output GSM maximum 225 & minimum 212.
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The main function of the compactor machine:
o To control the dia.
o To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease) To smooth the fabric surface.
o To calendar the fabric.
o To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease)
Average Production
The monthly average production on the finishing floor is 240 Ton.
Remarks
The sue ding and heat setting are not done in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. So, sue ding and
heat setting is done from other industries through subcontract.
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Chapter 07
Quality Assurance
Quality Assurance System
South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is more concern about quality. The quality assurance department
assign to maintain consistently uniform quality on the material in process and various stages of
manufacturing.
Objects of Quality Control
o Research.
o Selection of raw materials.
o Process control.
o Process development.
o Product testing.
o Specification test
Quality Assurance Procedure
Quality assurance procedure may be divided into two major parts:
o Online quality control
o Offline quality control
Online Q.C
Online quality control comprises with the raw material quality control and the process control.
Raw material control:
As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality so we must ensure the best quality
of raw material with an economical consideration.
The fabric must be without faults, with proper absorbency, whiteness as per requirement of the
subsequent process.
The chemicals should be with a known concentration with a higher degree of purity.
All the m/c’s engaged should be higher a precision.
Process control:
The method chosen for process must be provided with the necessary accurate parameters. Here
the specific gravity, water level, pH, time, temperature at each stage is checked.
Lab-dip preparation:
In any dye house, a laboratory equipped with required machines and equipment is essential. It
assists in product prediction, minimization of time consumption and waste reduction. It also in
producing the product of required quality.
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Prior to the bulk production, laboratory plays a vital role in shade matching and detecting the
characteristics of the dyes and chemicals to be used in the larger scale of production.
In South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd., for preparing lab-dip, lab-dip machines are used. There are
two lab-dip machines in its laboratory.
At first, recipe % of standard sample is measured by CCM (Computer color matching) system.
Then by taking that recipe lab in-charge produce lab trail and match with standard according to buyer
requirements. After approving to this sample, this sample is sending for bulk production with the
recipe.
Offline quality control:
The final product should pass against the norms given by the buyer. The following tests are
generally done-
Offline Test Done in This Factory
o Physical test
• Fabric weight
• Dimensional stability to washing
• Fabric width
o Color fastness test
• wash
• water
• rubbing
• perspiration
• phenolic yellowing
• hydrolysis of reactive dye
• oxidative bleach damage
• print durability
• appearance after wash
o Chemical and other test
• PH
value
• Fiber analysis
• Strength of hydrogen peroxide
• Strength of acetic acid
• Strength of HCl
• Strength of custic soda
• Strength of soda ash
• Strength of potassium-per-manganate
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• Analysis of soda ash
• PH
& hardness of glubar salt
• PH
& hardness of water
• PH
& hardness of common salt comparison of stabilizer
• comparison of soaping agent
• comparison of wetting agent
• comparison of anticreasing agent
o List of Equipment’s
• Yarn tester
• Hanna pH meter
• Electric balance
• Sample dryer
• Sunflower washing m/c Wascator
• Precision tumble dryer Washtec-p
• Data color international –spectrophotometer
• Crock meter
• Light box Inspection m/c # 1
• Light box Inspection m/c # 2
• Scissors Electronic balance
• GSM cutter
• Indication sticker
• Measuring tape
Quality Assurance Procedure
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the inspection
m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark,
SETL out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc. are recorded in inspection report
to classify the fabric based on the four-point system.
Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor faulty collar/cuff
like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round problem etc. properly
counted and recorded.
Quality Standard
The four-point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points
given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four-point grading
system followed by inspection at South East Textile (Pvt) Ltd.
Four-point grading system
Size of defects point
3 inches or less 1 point
Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 points
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Following table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section at South East
Textiles (Pvt) Ltd.
Following table shows common collar and cuff fault and response taken by inspection section-
Rejection criteria for collar & cuff
No. Faults Response
1. Wrong ply Reject
2. Hole Reject
3. Slubs Reject
4. Needle kine Reject
Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 points
Over 9 inch 4 points
Rejection criteria for body & ribs
No. Faults Response
1. Needle mark Major needle line is rejected
2. Stripe Major needle line is rejected
3. Barre mark Reject
4. Contamination & fly Approved for color but for white shed 1 point is assigned
5. Slubs 1 point
6. Thick thin place Reject
7. Birds eye 1 point
8. Pin holes 1 point
9. Wrong design Reject
10. Mixed yarn Discuss with manager
11. Sinker mark Major sinker mark is rejected.
12. Missing yarn Use 4 point
13. Holes Do
14. Oil line/stain Do
15. Chemical Do
16. Dirt stain Do
17. Crease line Do
18 Uneven tension Discuss with manager
Figure 10 Reject criteria for body & Rib
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5. Wrong design Reject
6. Wrong tripping Reject
7. Fly & contamination Acceptable for color but not for white
8. First round problem Reject
9. Uneven tension Discuss with manager
10. Missing yarn Reject
11. Crease line Reject
12. Rust line Reject
13. Oil stripe Reject
14. Thick-thin Reject
15. Chemical Reject
Figure 11 Reject criteria for body & Rib
Following theory is used to calculation of Acceptance Quality Level:
Quality Control in Grey Fabric Inspection
Some Points Are Needed to Maintain for High Quality Fabric:
• Brought good quality yarn.
• Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
• G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.
• Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
• Grey Fabrics are checked by 4-point grading system.
Quality Control in Dyeing & Finishing
South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd assures the quality of the products of dyeing section in the
following three steps:
1. In laboratory
2. In Dyeing section &
3. In Finishing Section
Procedures are described below:
In laboratory:
• Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement
• Recipe prediction for sample dyeing
• Sample dyeing until matching with swatch card Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are
done here.
In dyeing section:
According to the buyer’s sample, sample dyeing is done in sample dyeing machine in dyeing
shed & again matched with the approved sample.
Points Counted × 36" × 100
Roll Length × Fabric Width
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➢ If result is OK, then bulk production.
➢ During dyeing, samples are taken until accurate shade matching.
➢ The interval may be 30-40 minutes.
➢ After dyeing sample is collected after softening matching is done.
➢ Last of all, sample is collected after fixation & matched.
➢ Then allowed the fabrics to be finished.
In finishing section:
By using a series of finishing machines correct width, softness & appearance are maintained
according to requirements.
Then sampling is done for several times to test GSM, Shrinkage & fastness properties.
Finally, fabric is inspected & prepared for delivery
Procedure of The Different Tests
Different types of tests of the dyed fabric are done in laboratories of South East Textiles (Pvt)
ltd. Different types of method (Standard or buyer’s recommended) are followed for different types of
tests. The process of the different tests of fabrics & lab. Dip dyeing is described in the following
section:
Color Fastness Test Procedure
Color Fastness:
The “color fastness” of a colored textile is defined as its resistance to these changes when
subjected to particulates of conditions. It follows that color fastness must be specified in terms of these
changes and expressed in terms of the magnitude.
Color Fastness To Wash Test
Required materials:
▪ Sample size 40×100 mm
▪ Multifiber at 40×100 mm
▪ ECE detergent (WOB)– 4g/L
▪ Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3.H2O2.3H2O2-1g/L) - 1g/L
▪ Distilled water
▪ Normal cold water
▪ Steel balls
▪ Required instrument:
▪ Rota Wash
▪ Scissor
▪ Stitch machine
Procedure:
• Cut sample & multifiber at 100×400 mm and then stitch.
• 50 ml ECE detergent (WOB) & 50 ml Sodium per borate is taken with the sample.
• For Marks & Spencer, the solution is taken by the following: Formula:
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(Sample fabric + Multifiber weight) × 50 ml
• The sample is kept in 600
C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine
• Rinse the sample twice with cold water.
• Dry at 60°C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be more than
150°C.
Report:
Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey Scale &
Staining Scale.
Color Fastness To Water Test
Test specimen:
o Sample fabric – 50 mm × 50 mm
o Multifiber fabric – 50 mm × 100 mm
o Cut the multifiber into two pieces
o Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multifiber Testing Solution
o Water is taken as required
Method:
▪ The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).
▪ Water is taken in the peri dish as required.
▪ Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.
▪ The specimen is put for 30 minutes.
▪ A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room temperature.
▪ Excess solution is poured off.
▪ Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at (37 ±2)0
C
for 4 hours.
▪ The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600
C)
Report:
Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale &Staining Scale.
Color Fastness To Perspiration Test
Test specimen:
o Sample fabric – 50 mm × 50 mm
o Multifiber fabric – 50 mm × 100 mm
o Cut the multifiber into two pieces
o Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multifiber
Testing Solution:
1. Alkaline Solution:
▪ Histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O)– 5.00g/L NaCl – 5.00 g/L
▪ Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) – 2.5 g/L PH
▪ 8 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)
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2. Acidic Solution:
▪ Histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O)– 5.00g/L NaCl – 5.00 g/L
▪ Sodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) – 2.2 g/L PH
▪ 5.5 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)
Method:
▪ The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).
▪ Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two-peri dish. Here, M:L is taken 1:20.
▪ Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.
▪ The specimen is put for 30 minutes.
▪ A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room temperature.
▪ Excess solution is poured off.
▪ Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at (37±2)0
C for 4
hours.
▪ The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600
C)
Report:
Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining Scale.
Color The Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet)
TEST Sample:
▪ Dyed fabric – 15 cm × 5 cm
▪ White Test Cloth - 5 cm × 5 cm
Procedure:
White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire. - The sample is run twenty times
manually for ten seconds. and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is
accessed.
For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and socked and squeeze.
The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with stainless steel wire and run ten times
manually then assess the staining on to the rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth
is accessed.
Report:
Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of the white
test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.
There are also some tests are done in the lab. And the process is described below-
Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality)
Sample:
• Two piece of 50 cm×50 cm fabric is taken for test.
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Procedure:
▪ Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs for conditioning before starting test. Cut the
sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm. Stitch the sample (3 sides) by over lock
sewing machine. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer’s choice.
▪ Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHOSCOURING is flat dry.
SHRINKAGE TEST CALCULATION:
𝑆ℎ𝑟𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑎𝑔𝑒% =
𝐵𝑒𝑓𝑜𝑟𝑒 𝑊𝑎𝑠ℎ − 𝐴𝑓𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑊𝑎𝑠ℎ
𝐵𝑒𝑓𝑜𝑟𝑒 𝑊𝑎𝑠ℎ
× 100
SPIRALITY TEST CALCULATION:
𝑆 =
𝑆1+𝑆2
2
𝑆𝑝𝑖𝑟𝑎𝑙𝑖𝑡𝑦 =
(𝑆 × 100)
𝐴
Suppose,
S1 = The right-side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.
S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.
A = Length obtains after wash.
PH
OF A DYED FABRIC Test specimen:
2 gm of dyed fabric is taken.
The fabric is cut into pieces of (0.5 cm × 0.5 cm)
Procedure:
▪ The sample is taken into conical flax.
▪ 100 ml distilled water (slightly warm) is taken into the conical flax.
▪ The conical flax is put on the Magnetic Stirrer for 30 minutes.
Report:
The PH
of the conical flax is measured by Digital PH
meter.
Light Box
There are two light boxes in the laboratories of SETL project
1. Light box for European buyer
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2. Light box for American buyer
Different light used for shade matching of different buyers is as follows
Buyers Primary Secondary Tertiary
M&S MS TL 84(P15) MS D56---10 MS A10
Sains Buery (FT) TL 84—10 D56---10
BHS TL 84---10 F 11 10
Kappahl D65—10 TL 84---10 A10
Garaye D65—10 TL 84---10
Columbia D65—10 CWF
Chaps A10 D56---10
Ralph Lauren A10 D56---10
Abercombi & Ritch A10 D56---10
Figure 12 Shade match in light box
Remarks
The quality of the product in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. Are checked very carefully.
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Chapter 08
Maintenance
Maintenance
Machine, buildings and other facilities are subjected to deterioration due to their use and
exposure to environmental condition. Process of deterioration, if unchecked, culminates in rendering
these service facilities unserviceable and brings them to a standstill. Industry, therefore has no choice
but to attend them from time to time to repair and recondition them so as to elongate their life to the
extent it is economically and physically possible to do so.
It is in this in the context that maintenance assumes importance as an engineering function. It is
made responsible for provision of a condition of these machines, buildings and service that will permit
uninterrupted implementation of plans requiring their use.
Objectives of Maintenance
1. To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working condition.
2. To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer.
3. To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thus to have control over the production
program.
4. To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
5. To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.
Maintenance of Machinery
Machine maintenance Flow chart
Preventive maintenance:
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine activity to ensure on time inspections or
checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful
depreciation.
Break down maintenance:
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In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform its normal
functions.
Schedule maintenance:
Maintenance of different machines is made by expert engineer of maintenance department.
Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different
important parts is done.
In South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. follows the above three type’s maintenance.
Manpower Set-Up for Maintenance
1 A Shift 06:00 AM – 02:00 PM
2 B Shift 02:00 PM – 10:00 PM
3 General Shift 09:00 AM – 06:00 PM
Maintenance Procedure
Normally preventive maintenance is done here. During maintenance procedure following points
should be checked:
Maintenance of knitting machine:
MAINTENANCE: MECHANICAL
Machine: Dyeing m/c
Serial Item need to be checked & serviced
01 Crease the winch bearing
02 Complete cleaning of machine
03 Cleaning of drain valves, replace scales if required
04 Check air supply filters, regulators, and auto drain seals
05 Clean filters element and blow out
06 Greasing of unloading roller bearings
07 Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller gearbox
08 Checking of unloading roller coupling and Packing
09 Checking and cleaning of main vessel level Indicator
10 Pump bearing and refill if required
11 Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves
12 Check all belts and belt tension
SL. Items need to be checked & serviced
1. Check and tightening all motor terminals.
2. Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals
3. Clean the ventilation fans of panel board and circular fan on top of m/c
4. Check and clean the interfacing and data cables.
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13 Check all door seals
Figure 13 Mechanical Maintenance of dyeing m/c
MAINTENANCE: ELECTRICAL
Machine: Dyeing m/c
Serial no. Items needed to be checked and serviced
1 Check & clean fluff and dirt at al motor fan cover
2 Check all motors terminals
3 Check main panels (by using compressed air)
4 Check panel cooling fan & clean it filter
5 Clean main pump inverter and its cooling fan
6 Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over loads
7 Visual checking of all power & control cables
8 Check all pressure switches
9 Check DC drive of kneel motors
10 Check calibration of main vessel
11 Check calibration of all additional tank
12 Check all pneumatic solenoids
13 Check calibration of heating / cooling
14 Check setting of tangle sensor
15 Check setting & operation of lid safety Switches
16 Check all emergency switches
17 Check all indicating lamps
18 Check all on / off switches
19 Check all signal isolators
20 Check key pad & display of controller
21 Check proximity switches
Figure 14 Electrical Maintenance of dyeing m/c
Maintenance Tools & Equipment & Their Functions
SL NO TOOL NAME FUNCTION
1. Combination tools / spanner Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.
2. Socket ratchet set Tightening of nuts & bolts.
3. Slide range Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.
4. Monkey pliers Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.
5. Pipe threat cutting tools To cut the threat in pipe.
6. Bearing puller To assist the opening of bearing from shaft.
7. Pipe range Tightening & loosening of pipe joint.
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8. Pipe cutting tools For pipe cutting
9. Hole punch Punching the hole.
10. Divider For circle marking on metal & wood.
11. Easy opener To open the broken head bolt.
12. External threat die For external threat cutting.
13. Heavy scissor Cutting of gasket & steel
14. Oil can Oiling of moving parts.
15. Drill machine and drill bit. For drilling.
16 Grease gun For greasing of moving parts of m/c.
17. Grinding m/c For grinding & cutting of mild steel.
18. Welding m/c For welding & cutting.
19. Spirit leveler For perfect leveling.
20. File For smoothing the surface.
21. Hammer For scaling & right angling
22. Circlip tools Circlip opening & closing.
23. Hacksaw blade For metal cutting.
24. Handsaw (wood) For wood cutting
25. Grinding stone For smooth finishing.
Figure 15 Maintenance tool equipment & function
Remarks
To make serviceable of machines, buildings and other service facilities maintenance is very
essential. It reduces maintenance cost as for as possible thereby leading to a reduction in factory
overheads and prolongs the useful life of the factory plant & machinery. When I was trainee of South
East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd., then I saw that the maintenance staff and overheads of maintenance
department is very skilled and efficient.
70
Shyamoli Textile
Engineering College
Chapter 09
Utility Services
Utility Facilities Available
For smooth functioning of any production unit, uninterrupted and required utility services are
indispensable. Success of any industry largely depends on this factor. Any irregularity or lack in the
required utility services immediately results in unexpected halt of the production process. An Industry
needs various utilities depending on its manufacturing process.
In South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd., the major utilities are available-
▪ Power (Electricity)
▪ Water
▪ Natural gas
▪ Compressed air
▪ Steam
Sources of Utilities
The main utility which is used by South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is natural gas. From natural gas
generator produce electricity. From natural gas and electricity in association with mechanical and
electrical apparatus, South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. produces other utilities like water, steam,
compressed air etc.
Capacity & Other Technical Details
Power (Electricity)
Generator house is the main power producing plant of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. There are
three generators in generator house. Two of them being gas generator and another is diesel generator.
The two-gas generator are of 900W and 750W respectively and Diesel generator is of 400 KVA.
SPECIFICATION OF GENERATOR:
Name: Generator
Manufacturer Name: waukesha
Model: VHP5900GSID
Origin: USA
Capacity: 750KW
Units: 01
Name: Generator
71
Shyamoli Textile
Engineering College
Manufacturer Name: Waukesha
Model: VHP5904GSID
Origin: USA
Capacity: 900KW
Units: 01
Steam
The required steam is produced by boiler. There are two boilers in South East Textiles (Pvt)
Ltd. both of which are fire tube boiler.
Name: Boiler
Manufacturer Name: Cochran
Model: T
Origin: USA
Capacity: 7710 KW
Units: 01
Compressed Air
The compressed air is supplied from air compressor. There are two air compressors in South
East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd.
Name: Compressor
Manufacturer Name: Worthington
Model: Creyssensac RLR 50bx6
Origin: France
Capacity: 353 m3
/h
Pressure: 10.58bar
Units: 02
Water
The water source of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is deep tube well. The deep tube well is about
260 ft deep. The average water consumption is 40-50 m³ / hr. and the water softening method is Base
Exchange method.
Standard water quality for dye house:
Minimum standard Permissible concentration
Color Colorless
Smell No bad smell
Water hardness <50
PH
Value 7-8 Neutral
Dissolved solid < 1 mg/1
Inorganic salt < 500 mg/1
Iron (Fe) < 0.1 mg/1
Manganese (mn) <0.01 mg/1
Copper (Cu) < 0.005 mg/l
Nitrate (NO3) < 50 mg/l
72
Shyamoli Textile
Engineering College
Nitrite (NO2) < 5 mg/1
Figure 16 Standard water quality for dye house
Hardness check:
The hardness should be checked after every 6 hrs. It should be checked by the hardness test kits.
The using hardness test kits are Hanna Instrument. Made in Italy. If the hardness is going to be 0.5 on
the syringe scale. Then have to do the regeneration process. The capacity of the vessel 115m3
/ hr or
115 ton/hr.
Test procedure:
▪ At first to get the 50 ml of soft water in a beaker.
▪ Then add of 5 drops of hardness buffer solution & 1 drop of Calmagite indicator.
▪ Then add reagent EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid) indicator by a syringe. It should
be mixed until the water color light blue.
▪ If the syringe indicator indicates 0.1 then hardness of water 3 & 0.2 then the hardness
Gas
The source of gas is government agency. Gas is required mainly for generation of electricity,
boiler to produce steam, the burners of heat setting m/c. As South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. generates
their own electricity, the gas consumption is quite high. The gas consumption is 350-400 m³/hr.
Remarks
For smooth running of factory main utilities like gas, electricity or steam is very essential.
Sometimes gas pressure is low than required pressure. When the gas pressure is low, then diesel
generator runs. Government should have to ensure proper gas supply for Industrial purpose.
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South East Textiles Internship Report

  • 1. Shyamoli Textile Engineering College (A constituent institution of The University of Dhaka) Industrial Attachment On South East Textiles Pvt. Ltd. (Interstoff Group) Gorai, Mirzapur, Tangail. Submitted By Amanuzzaman ID: TE-69/17 DU Reg: 499 Level-4, Term-2 Department of Fabric Manufacturing, Shyamoli Textile Engineering College. Submitted To Md. Lutfur Rahman Lecturer, Department Of Fabric Manufacturing Shyamoli Textile Engineering College.
  • 2. Page No 2 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Acknowledgment Several people have made significant contributions in preparing this report. Their insights, advice, and suggestions helped me a lot. I would like to pay special thanks to Thakur Alauddin Ahmed, Director, Shyamoli Textile Engineering College, for continuously guiding us about the development and preparation of the report. He has enriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant improvement of the report. I would also like to express my heartfelt thanks to my supervising teacher Md. Mizanur Rahman Khan, Lecturer, Department of Fabric Manufacturing, Shyamoli Textile Engineering College & Md. Lutfur Rahman, Lecturer, Department of Fabric Manufacturing, Shyamoli Textile Engineering College, For his encouragement & valuable suggestions for incessant improvement of this report. We would like to express our foremost gratitude to other officials of South East Textiles (Pvt.) Ltd.(SETL), especially our internship coordinator Md. Ekramul Hasan (Assistant Manager, Merchandising), Md. Mahbub Hasan (Div. Sr. Merchandiser, Merchandising) and Musfiqur Rahman (Assistant Manager, Fabrics, Interstoff Knitting Ltd.). We would also like to express our deep sense of gratitude and thanks to the Assistant Manager of the knitting section for guiding us. We would like to convey our best regards to all the officials and workers of the South East Textiles (Pvt.) Ltd. (SETL), Interstoff Knitting Ltd. (IKL) and Interstoff Apparels Ltd. (IAL). We especially like to thank our parents & all of our family members for extending their helping hand at a time when we need it most. We remember all the care and love of our friends who made our every existence more meaningful and worthy. Finally, we would like to put special thanks to the authority of Interstoff Group for allowing us into their organization.
  • 3. Page No 3 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Table of Contents Acknowledgment.................................................................................................................................... 2 Introduction............................................................................................................................................. 8 Chapter 01 Description of Project Company Profile..................................................................................................................................... 9 History of The Project Development ...................................................................................................... 9 Different Departments .......................................................................................................................... 10 Physical Infrastructure .......................................................................................................................... 10 Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 11 Site Location......................................................................................................................................... 11 Chapter 02 Man Power Management Management System............................................................................................................................. 12 Organogram of Manpower Administration .......................................................................................... 12 Board of Directors........................................................................................................................... 12 Organogram of Knitting Section..................................................................................................... 12 Organization South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. ................................................................................... 13 Organization of Dyeing Section:..................................................................................................... 14 Shift Change.................................................................................................................................... 14 Shift Change for worker.................................................................................................................. 15 General shift for staff ...................................................................................................................... 15 Responsibilities of Production Officer ................................................................................................. 15 Job Description of P.O & S.P.O...................................................................................................... 15 Purpose............................................................................................................................................ 15 Chapter 03 Machine Description List of Machineries............................................................................................................................... 16
  • 4. Page No 4 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Knitting section ............................................................................................................................... 16 Dyeing section................................................................................................................................. 16 Finishing section ............................................................................................................................. 16 Knitting Machine Specification............................................................................................................ 16 Layout Plan of Dyeing Section............................................................................................................. 18 Dyeing Machine Specification.............................................................................................................. 18 Finishing Section Layout...................................................................................................................... 20 Machine Description for Finishing Section .................................................................................... 20 Specification of Machines in Lab ......................................................................................................... 21 Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 22 Chapter 04 Raw Material, Store & Inventory Control Raw Materials....................................................................................................................................... 23 Types of Raw Materials .................................................................................................................. 23 Raw Materials Sources.................................................................................................................... 23 Knitting Raw Material..................................................................................................................... 23 List of Chemicals Used ................................................................................................................... 27 Annual Requirements ........................................................................................................................... 28 Inventory System of Raw Material....................................................................................................... 28 Scope of Inventory Control................................................................................................................... 28 Spares.................................................................................................................................................... 29 Finished Goods Inventory..................................................................................................................... 29 Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 29 Chapter 5 Knitting Section Knitting................................................................................................................................................. 30 Different sections of Knitting.......................................................................................................... 30 Sequence of Operations in Knitting Section ................................................................................... 30 Process Flow Chart for Knitting...................................................................................................... 31 Types of Fabric Produce in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. .................................................................. 31 Considerable Points to Produce Knitted Fabrics............................................................................. 33
  • 5. Page No 5 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Production Parameter ...................................................................................................................... 33 Different Parameter in Knitting Machine........................................................................................ 33 Basic Knitting Elements.................................................................................................................. 34 Different Parts Of Knitting Machine............................................................................................... 34 Faults & Remedies of Knitting Fabrics........................................................................................... 38 Different knitting machineries.............................................................................................................. 42 Chapter 06 Production Planning Sequence & Operation Batch Section........................................................................................................................................ 43 Function or purpose of the batch..................................................................................................... 43 Proper batching criteria ................................................................................................................... 43 Batch management .......................................................................................................................... 43 Remarks........................................................................................................................................... 43 Physical Laboratory .............................................................................................................................. 44 Lab department................................................................................................................................ 44 Sequence of Lab Operations ........................................................................................................... 44 Soda & Salt Calculation.................................................................................................................. 45 Procedure for 100% Cotton Fabric: ................................................................................................ 46 Dyeing Section...................................................................................................................................... 46 Production Parameters .......................................................................................................................... 47 Process for Dyeing Cotton .............................................................................................................. 47 Procedure of Scouring-Bleaching ................................................................................................... 47 Main Parts of The Machines ........................................................................................................... 48 Common Dyeing Faults with Their Remedies................................................................................ 49 Average Production......................................................................................................................... 51 Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 51 Finishing Section .................................................................................................................................. 52 Objective of finishing...................................................................................................................... 52 Description of Finishing Process..................................................................................................... 52 Average Production......................................................................................................................... 55 Remarks........................................................................................................................................... 55
  • 6. Page No 6 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 07 Quality Assurance Quality Assurance System.................................................................................................................... 56 Objects of Quality Control.............................................................................................................. 56 Quality Assurance Procedure................................................................................................................ 56 Online Q.C ...................................................................................................................................... 56 Offline Test Done in This Factory .................................................................................................. 57 Quality Assurance Procedure.......................................................................................................... 58 Quality Standard ................................................................................................................................... 58 Quality Control in Grey Fabric Inspection...................................................................................... 60 Quality Control in Dyeing & Finishing........................................................................................... 60 Procedure of The Different Tests.......................................................................................................... 61 Color Fastness Test Procedure ........................................................................................................ 61 Color Fastness To Wash Test.......................................................................................................... 61 Color Fastness To Water Test ......................................................................................................... 62 Color Fastness To Perspiration Test................................................................................................ 62 Color The Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet) ................................................................................ 63 Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality)....................................................... 63 Light Box......................................................................................................................................... 64 Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 65 Chapter 08 Maintenance Maintenance.......................................................................................................................................... 66 Objectives of Maintenance.............................................................................................................. 66 Maintenance of Machinery ................................................................................................................... 66 Manpower Set-Up for Maintenance ..................................................................................................... 67 Maintenance Procedure......................................................................................................................... 67 Maintenance Tools & Equipment & Their Functions .......................................................................... 68 Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 69 Chapter 09 Utility Services
  • 7. Page No 7 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Utility Facilities Available.................................................................................................................... 70 Sources of Utilities................................................................................................................................ 70 Capacity & Other Technical Details..................................................................................................... 70 Power (Electricity) .......................................................................................................................... 70 Steam............................................................................................................................................... 71 Compressed Air............................................................................................................................... 71 Water ............................................................................................................................................... 71 Gas................................................................................................................................................... 72 Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 72 Chapter 10 Cost Analysis Costing of The Product......................................................................................................................... 73 Price of the Product............................................................................................................................... 73 Remark.................................................................................................................................................. 73 Chapter 11 Marketing Activities Consumer of The Products ................................................................................................................... 74 Importing Countries.............................................................................................................................. 74 Exporting Countries.............................................................................................................................. 74 Manpower of Marketing ....................................................................................................................... 74 Marketing Strategy ............................................................................................................................... 74 Price Quotation ..................................................................................................................................... 75 Duties & Responsibilities of Marketing Officer................................................................................... 75 Job summery ................................................................................................................................... 75 Remarks ................................................................................................................................................ 75 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................ 76
  • 8. Page No 8 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Introduction Utilizing practical knowledge it's not possible to apply theoretical knowledge in the practical field. For any technical education, practical experience is almost equally important in association with theoretical knowledge. The industrial attachment is the process, which builds the understanding, skills, and attitude of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, in spite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skills about various processing stages. It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work-study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques, etc. the above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully utilizing theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge on which it is based. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed to the industrial atmosphere and improves courage and inspiration to take self-responsibility. Textile education cannot be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and makes us accustomed to the industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete a two-month-long industrial. Training at South East Textiles (Pvt.) Ltd, which is a 100% export-oriented composite Industry. It has well- planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and garments units in addition to facilitating knitting and knitwear manufacturing.
  • 9. Page No 9 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 01 Description of Project Company Profile Name : South East Textiles (Pvt.) Ltd Nature of the Company : Private Limited Company Group Name : Interstoff Group Type : 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry. Year of establishment : 2010 Location : Gorai, Mirzapur, Tangail Certification & awards : Wrap, ISO 9001:2000, FLO, CTPAT certified. Production capacity- Knitting : 9-9.5 ton/day Dyeing : 15-16 ton/day Garments : 60,000 pieces/day Printing : 50,000 panels/day Embroidery : 6,500 panels/day Sewing : 40,000 pcs/day Sampling : 650 units/day Total Volume : 3,87,092 sqr. ft. Total Revenue Income : 40 Million (Approx.) Total Manpower : 3679 (Officer & Staff – 465 , Worker – 3214) The production capacity of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is an approximate idea, it may vary. Project cost : US$ 20 million per year. Total area : Total floor space is 2, 00,000 sft. Sponsor : Bangladesh and UK joint venture Main Production : Basic T-Shirt, Long Sleeve, T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Pajama, Ladies, Kids Knitwear & all kinds of knit Garments & Knit fabrics. History of The Project Development INTERSTOFF Group started their business by some knitting m/c in 2002. Then at the end of 2004, they started their fabric processing plant and after that gradually they expanded their garments section and print shop.
  • 10. Page No 10 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Different Departments Physical Infrastructure ` The mill is built in such a way that there is possibility for further expansion of the mill. The structure such as mill, office buildings, record rooms, guardrooms & dining room etc. are made of solid hard concrete & brick mtls. The whole area is surrounded by safety brick wall .The main set KNITTING SECTION Knitting Inspection DYEING SECTION Grey inspection Batching section Dye house Finishing section Lab and Q.C. Quality control (on line) PRINT SHOP Sample section Production section GARMENTS SECTION Product development Production merchandising Sample section Spreading and cutting section CAD & CAM section Sewing section Finishing section MAINTENACNE SECTION Electrical Mechanical STORAGE SECTION Yarn Storage Fabric Storage Chemical Storage Trimmings & Accessories Storage Garment Storage SUPPORTING DEPARTMENT personnel administration HR Procurement Marketing Finance and accounting Security department
  • 11. Page No 11 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College up for m/c’s are built of corrugated iron & iron sheet, transparent hard plastics with enough ventilation & scope for passing light & air. Remarks South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is a profitable project and contributes the economy of our country. Site Location South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd is situated in Gorai, Mirzapur, Tangail. Dhaka,about fifty kilometers far from Gorai. There are two easy ways to go from Dhaka. o Mohammadpur-Mohakhali-Uttara-Abdullahpur-Ashulia-Bipilechandra-pollibidut-Chandra- Gorai-South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. o Mohammadpur-Shyamoli-Gabtoli-Savar-Nobinogor-Bipile-chandra-Gorai-South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd.
  • 12. Page No 12 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 02 Man Power Management Management System The company has skilled administration, management, and marketing team guided by proficient, dexterous & experienced leaders of offer the right solution for the consumers with the right eminence & with the shortest lead -time for the export market in Bangladesh. The best use of continuous development of human resources by providing them the International standard of equal opportunity is the key for achieving comprehensive competence in all levels of the organizational hierarchy. Organogram of Manpower Administration Board of Directors o Mr. Nazim Uddin, Chairman. o Mr. Shahriar Alam, Managing Director Organogram of Knitting Section Knitting Manager Assistant knitting manager Senior Production Officer Production officer Asst. Production officer Junior Production Officer Supervisor Operator Helper
  • 13. Page No 13 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Organization South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. Figure 1 Organization flow chart of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd.
  • 14. Page No 14 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Organization of Dyeing Section: General Manager Deputy General Manager Manager Deputy Production Manager Asst. Production Manager Sr. Production Officer Production Officer Supervisor Asst. Supervisor Sr. Operator Operator Asst. Operator Helper Shift Change There are three shifts in the industry. So, the shifts are changed at every 8 hours.
  • 15. Page No 15 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Shift Change for worker o Shift A – 06.00 - 02.00 Pm o Shift B – 02.00 - 10.00 Pm o Shift C – 10.00 - 06.00 Pm General shift for staff o Shift A– 08:00 – 20:00 o Shift B– 20:00 – 08:00 Management personal work on a general shift of duration 9.00 am to 6.00 pm and 6 days per week. Responsibilities of Production Officer o To check recipe according to lab dip o To check shade o To m/c plan o To check the dyeing process o To manage floor o To accelerate in arranging batch o To carry out the order of the production manager Job Description of P.O & S.P.O Job title: Production officer & Senior Production officer. Report to: Production Manager. Purpose To control shift according to the plan made by the production manager Shift in charge: 1 Supervisor: 1
  • 16. Page No 16 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 03 Machine Description List of Machineries Knitting section Single jersey 47 Rib machine 11 Interlock m/c 07 Fleece m/c 15 Engineering Stripe Machine 04 Flat bed 37 Grey Fabric Inspection 04 Dyeing section Sample dyeing machine 11 Bulk dyeing machine 10 Finishing section Slitter 02 Dewatering Machine 02 Stenter 02 Dryer 01 Tube compactor 01 Open width compactor 01 Inspection Machine 01 Turning Machine 01 Knitting Machine Specification Specification Of Circular Knitting Machine Serial Machine Brand Origin M/C dia Gauge QTY 1 Single jersey Fukahama Taiwan 24" 24 01 SET 2 " Fukahama " 25" 24 02 SET 3 " Fukahama " 26" 24 04 SET
  • 17. Page No 17 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College 4 " Tien Yang Taiwan 34" 24 01 SET 5 " Tien Yang " 36" 24 01 SET 6 " Well-knit " 34" 24 02 SET 7 " TERROT Germany 26" 24 03 SET 8 " TERROT " 30" 24 13 SET 9 " TERROT " 34" 24 12 SET 10 " TERROT " 36" 24 06 SET 11 RIB Fukahama Taiwan 36" 18 01 SET 12 " TERROT Germany 30" 18 01 SET 13 " TERROT " 34" 18 01 SET 14 " TERROT " 36" 18 01 SET 15 " TERROT " 38" 18 01 SET 16 " Pai Lung Taiwan 36" 18 06 SET 17 Interlock TERROT " 36" 24 01 SET 18 " Tien Yang " 30" 24 01 SET 19 " Fukahama " 34" 24 01 SET 20 " Fukahama " 36" 24 04 SET 21 Fleece Tien Yang Taiwan 30" 20 02 SET 22 " Tien Yang " 32" 20 02 SET 23 " Tien Yang " 34" 20 01 SET 24 " Fukahama " 28" 20 02 SET 25 " Fukahama " 30" 20 01 SET 26 " Goang Lih Japan 34" 20 06 SET 27 Auto/ Engr. Stripe JUMBARCA Spain 30" 24 01 SET 28 " MAYER & CIE Germany 30" 24 03 SET Total No of Machines 81 SET Figure 2 Circular knitting machine specification Specification Of Flat Bed Knitting Machine Serial machine Brand Origin M/C dia Gauge QTY 1 Flat bed JY-LEH Taiwan 54" 14 07 SET 2 " MATSUYA Japan 40" 14 04 SET 3 " LEADING TIGER China 40" 14 01 SET 4 " KAUD-HENG Taiwan 54" 14 04 SET 5 " LEADING TIGER China 60" 14 06 SET 6 " PROTTI Italy 84" 14 05 SET 7 " MATSUYA Japan 80" 14 10 SET Total No of Machines 37 SET Figure 3 Flatbed knitting machine specification
  • 18. Page No 18 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Layout Plan of Dyeing Section Figure 4 Dyeing layout plan Dyeing Machine Specification Dyeing Machines: In SETL. There are 21 dyeing machines. Among them 11 are sample dyeing machine and 10 are bulk dyeing machine. The description and specifications of the machine are given below- M/c no: 01 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: Thies Max. Temp: 98ºC Origin: Germany Capacity: 630 kg Nozzel: 03 M/c no: 02 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: Thies Max. Temp: 135ºc Origin: Germany Capacity: 450 kg Nozzle: 03 M/c no: 03 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: Thies. Max. Temp: 135ºc Origin: Germany Capacity: 450 kg Nozzle: 03 M/c no: 04 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: Thies. Max. Temp: 98ºc Origin: Germany. Capacity: 270 kg Nozzle: 01 M/c no: 05 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: DILMENLER Max. Temp: 140ºC Origin: Turkey Capacity: 900 kg. Nozzle: 03
  • 19. Page No 19 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College M/c no: 06 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: DILMENLER Max. Temp: 140ºC Origin: Turkey Capacity: 600kg Nozzle: 02 M/c no: 07 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: FONG’S Max. Temp: 98ºc Origin: China. Capacity: 600 kg. Nozzle: 03 M/c no: 08 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: SUNTEX Max. Temp: 135ºc Origin: Switzerland Capacity: 250 kg Nozzle: 02 M/c no: 09 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: SUNTEX Max. Temp: 135ºc Origin: Switzerland Capacity: 100 kg Nozzle: 01 M/c no: 10 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: Textlink. Max. Temp: N/A Origin: N/A Capacity: 120 kg. Nozzle: 01 Sample dyeing M/c no: 01 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: THIES Max. Temp: 98ºc Origin: Germany. Capacity: 30 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 02 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: THIES. Max. Temp: 98ºc Origin: Germany. Capacity: 20 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 03 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: THIES Max. Temp: 98ºc Origin: Germany. Capacity: 20 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 04 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: THIES Max. Temp: 98ºc Origin: Germany. Capacity: 10 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 05 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: THIES Max. Temp: 98ºc Origin: Switzerland Capacity: 35 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 06 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: SUNTEX Max. Temp: 135ºc Origin: Switzerland Capacity: 20 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 07 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: SUNTEX Max. Temp: 135ºc Origin: Switzerland Capacity: 30 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 08 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: SUNTEX Max. Temp: 135ºc Origin: Switzerland Capacity: 50 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 09 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: TEXLINK Max. Temp: N/A Origin: N/A Capacity: 65 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 10 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c Brand: TEXLINK Max. Temp: N/A Origin: N/A Capacity: 120 kg Sample dyeing M/c no: 11 Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
  • 20. Page No 20 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Brand: SONTECH Max. Temp: 140ºc Origin: Germany. Capacity: 275 kg Finishing Section Layout Figure 5 Finishing section layout Machine Description for Finishing Section The finishing section is consisting of two lines. They are– o Tube line o Open line The machine that is used for open line are given below – o Slitting and Dewatering machine. o Stenter machine o Compactor machine The machines that are used for tube line are given below –. o Dewatering machine o Dryer o Compactor machine Finishing Machine Specification: o Name: Dewatering m/c Brand Name: AB CALATOR Company Name: AIRTEX CALATOR
  • 21. Page No 21 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Origin: Sweden o Name: Dryer Brand Name: suntex group Origin: Switzerland o Name: Monti Tube Compactor Brand Name: Monti Origin: Italy o Name: Compactor (open) Brand Name: Lafer Origin: Italy o Name: Slitter & Dewatering m/c. Brand Name: bianco Origin: Germany o Name: Stenter m/c (4 chamber) Brand Name: BRUCKNER Origin: Germany o Name: Stenter m/c (5 chamber) Brand Name: BRUCKNER Origin: Germany Specification of Machines in Lab Yarn tester M/c code : m003 M/c name : Yarn tester Masde in : Ittaly Installation date : 08.01.2008 Hanna ph meter M/c code : M006 M/c name : Hanna ph tester Made in : Iportugal Installation date : 20.03.2008 Electric balance M/c name : Electric balance Made by : Canada Supplier : Eoaches Installation date : 06.07.2004 Carbulite M/c name : Carbulite Made in : England Supplier : Maizime trading company Installation date : 06.09.2004 Sample dryer M/c code : m19 M/c name : Sample dryer Made in : Spain Supplier : Maizime trading company Installation date : 06.09.2004 Conditioning cabinet m/c name Name : Conditioning Cabinet Made in : USA Sunflower washing m/c Origin : China Brand : Sunflower Installation date : 01-10-07 Fisher& payled washing m/c Origin : UK Brand : Fisher & paylsel Wascator FOM71 CLS Origin : Sweden Brand : Electrolux Installation date : 06-09-04 M223/2 precision tumble dryer Origin : England Brand : SDLATLAS Installation date : 04-04-09
  • 22. Page No 22 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Washtec-p Origin : England Brand : Roaches Installation date : 06-09-04 Conditioning cabinet Origin : China Brand : Shanghai sansher medical instrument company Ltd Installation date : 10-06-06 Deiomizer Origin : Uk Brand : Elga Installation date : 05-06-06 Spectrophotometer Origin : USA Brand : Data color international Installation date : 06-09-04 Lab dyeing machine double bath Name : Infrared pyrotec Made by : Roaches Made in : England Supplier : Roaches Crock meter Made by : Roaches England Made in : England Supplier : roaches Remarks Most of the dyeing and finishing machinery of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is conventional and old especially the Theis machines and the Fongs machine are quite backdated, the dewatering machine as well. Recently they improving their dyeing and finishing machine.
  • 23. Page No 23 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 04 Raw Material, Store & Inventory Control Raw Materials Raw material is a unique substance in any production-oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high-quality fabric. Types of Raw Materials 1. Yarn 2. Fabric 3. Dyestuff 4. Chemical and auxiliaries Raw Materials Sources 1. YARN: Cotton Yarn: ▪ ARMAN Spinning Mill. ▪ NAHAR Spinning Mill. ▪ AKIJ Spinning Mill. ▪ BEXIMCO Spinning Mill. Polyester Yarn: India Lycra: Singapore, Indonesia, Korea, Japan 2. FABRIC: ▪ INTERSTOFF KNITTING LTD. ▪ SOUTH EAST TEXTILE LTD. Knitting Raw Material Cotton 24S , 26s ,30S , 32S ,34S ,40S Polyester 75D, l00D Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D Grey Mélange 24S,26S Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S ,26S ,28S Anthra Mélange (C-65% V-35%) 24S ,26S ,28S PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S ,26S ,28S ,30S CVC 24S ,26S ,28S ,30S
  • 24. Page No 24 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College FABRIC: Again, grey fabric of following construction is commonly are dyed • Single jersey • Single jersey with lycra • Polo pique • Single lacoste • Fleece • Interlock • Rib • Rib with lycra • 1Χ1 rib 2Χ2 rib • Different types of collar & cuffs. The knitting section of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is not sufficient enough to supply all the fabric needed by fabric processing plant. It is capable to fulfill only one forth the fabric processing plant’s demand. Rest of the grey fabric needed is knitted in other industries through sub contract. CHEMICALS • Dyes. • Chemicals • Auxiliaries. DYES: LIST OF DYES USED IN SOUTH EAST TEXTILES (PVT) LTD. Sl. Name of the Dyes Type Source 01 Ciba Yellow FN2R Reactive Dye Swiss Color 02 Ciba Red FNR Reactive Dye Swiss Color 03 Ciba Red FN2BL Reactive Dye Swiss Color 04 Ciba Blue FNR Reactive Dye Swiss Color 05 Ciba Br. Blue FNG Reactive Dye Swiss Color 06 Ciba Red FN3F Reactive Dye Swiss Color 07 Ciba Yellow F4G Reactive Dye Swiss Color 08 Ciba Scarlet F3G Reactive Dye Swiss Color 09 Ciba Yellow WR Reactive Dye Swiss Color 10 Ciba Red WB Reactive Dye Swiss Color 11 Ciba Navy WB Reactive Dye Swiss Color 12 Ciba Dk. Blue WR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
  • 25. Page No 25 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College 13 Ciba Red HF Reactive Dye Swiss Color 14 Ciba Orange HR Reactive Dye Swiss Color 15 Ciba Navy H2G Reactive Dye Swiss Color 16 Ciba Black WHF Reactive Dye Swiss Color 17 Drim Yellow HFR Reactive Dye Clariant 18 Drim Red HF2B Reactive Dye Clariant 19 Drim Blue HFRL Reactive Dye Clariant 20 Drim Yellow CL2R Reactive Dye Clariant 21 Drim Red CL5B Reactive Dye Clariant 22 Drim Navy CLB Reactive Dye Clariant 23 Drim Orange CL3R Reactive Dye Clariant 24 Drim Yellow CL3GL Reactive Dye Clariant 25 Drim Turquis CLB Reactive Dye Clariant 26 Drim Turquis K2B Reactive Dye Clariant 27 Remazol Yellow RR Reactive Dye Dyestar 28 Remazol Red RR Reactive Dye Dyestar 29 Remazol Blue RR Reactive Dye Dyestar 30 Remazol Br Blue (RSPL) Reactive Dye Dyestar 31 Remazol Blue BB Reactive Dye Dyestar 32 Remazol T/Blue G Reactive Dye Dyestar 33 Remazol Yellow 3RS Reactive Dye Dyestar 34 Remazol Red 3BS Reactive Dye Dyestar 35 Dianx Yellow SEG Disperse Dychufix 36 Dianx Red CC Disperse Dychufix 37 Dianx Navy CC Disperse Dychufix 38 Sunfix Yellow EXF Reactive Dye Sumitomo 39 Sunfix Red EXF Reactive Dye Sumitomo 40 Sunfix Blue EXF Reactive Dye Sumitomo 41 Sunfix Blue BRF Reactive Dye Sumitomo 42 Sunfix Yellow S3RD Reactive Dye Sumitomo 43 Sunfix Red S3BD Reactive Dye Sumitomo 44 Remazol Yellow GR Reactive Dye Dyestar 45 Remazol Red F3S Reactive Dye Dyestar 46 Remazol Navy Blue RGB Reactive Dye Dyestar
  • 26. Page No 26 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College 47 Remazol G. Yellow RNB Reactive Dye Dyestar 48 Bezactive Red VBN Reactive Dye Bezema 49 Bezactive Yellow V2R Reactive Dye Bezema 50 Foron Red SWF Reactive Dye N/A 51 Foron Navy SWF Reactive Dye N/A 52 Dianix Blue ER Disperse Dychufix 53 Dianix Black CCR Disperse Dychufix 54 Kemifix Yellow FRL Reactive Dye N/A 55 Kemifix Red 3BS Reactive Dye N/A 56 Kemifix Red F6B Reactive Dye N/A 57 Kemifix Yellow 4G Reactive Dye N/A 58 Kemifix Blue F2R Reactive Dye N/A 59 Kemifix Orange 2RL Reactive Dye N/A 60 Impozyn Black VB Reactive Dye Impo color 61 Impozyn Red 3BF Reactive Dye Impo color 62 Impozyn Yellow E3R Reactive Dye Impo color 63 Impozyn Blue V3R Reactive Dye Impo color 64 Impozyn T. Blue VG Reactive Dye Impo color 65 Impozyn Br. Orange V3R Reactive Dye Impo color 66 Tera Yellow W4G Disperse Swiss Color 67 Tera G. Yellow W3R Disperse Swiss Color 68 Tera Navy WRS Disperse Swiss Color 69 Tera Red W4BS Disperse Swiss Color 70 Tera Blue WBLS Disperse Swiss Color 71 Tera Black WNS Disperse Swiss Color 72 Tera Black BFE Disperse Swiss Color 73 Drimarin G. Yellow K2R Reactive Dye Clariant 74 Drimarin Blue CLBR Reactive Dye Clariant 75 Drimarin Blue K2RL Reactive Dye Clariant 76 Remazol Carbon RGB Reactive Dye Dyestar 77 Remazol Black B Reactive Dye Dyestar 78 Remazol Red RB Reactive Dye Dyestar 79 Levafix Blue CA Reactive Dye Dyestar 80 Levafix Rubine CA Reactive Dye Dyestar 81 Levafix Amber CA Reactive Dye Dyestar
  • 27. Page No 27 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College 82 Ciba Yellow HG Reactive Dye Swiss Color 83 Ciba Blue HRN Reactive Dye Swiss Color 84 Ciba Red HBL Reactive Dye Swiss Color 85 Ciba Orange EBR Reactive Dye Swiss Color 86 Solacion Yellow HEXL Reactive Dye N/A 87 Solacion Red HEXL Reactive Dye N/A 88 Bezactive Turquis VGC Reactive Dye Bezema Figure 6 List of dyes. List of Chemicals Used Acid • Acetic acid • Hydrochloric Acid Detergent • Sandoclean PCLE • Levelling Agent • Drimazine E2R Sequestering Agent • LanapexHTS • Salt • Gluber Salt • Common Salt Softener • SoftamineCL • Sapamine CWS • Dekol SN Fixing Agent • Cyclonol ERL Reducing Agent • Hydrose Bleaching Agent • H2O2 Enzyme
  • 28. Page No 28 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College • Bioace • Tinozyme 44L Stabilize • apex HPST Anticreasing Agent • Depsolube ACA P H Controller • Acid • Soda Ash • Caustic soda Per-oxide Killer • Na Thiosuphite Annual Requirements To determine annual requirements is very tuff. It mainly depends on the buyer order and subcontract order. When the buyer order is large then the consumption is high and vice-versa. The annual requirements of grey fabric depend on the buyer order and the requirements of dyes and chemicals depend on the color depth. Inventory System of Raw Material It is previously spoken that South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is a knit composite industry. The main raw material of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. (SETL) is gray fabric. Grey fabric first produced in knitting department of this company. Knitting section of SETL produced grey fabric as per buyer’s order & requirements. Dyeing section get the produced grey fabric from knitting section. Grey fabric store officer received the grey fabric and store the grey fabric in storeroom. Then he delivers the grey fabric to batch preparation section according to shipment date or according to production manager of dyeing section instruction. Other raw materials of SETL are dyes and chemicals. Dyes and chemicals store officer always keep stock report of dyes and chemicals and also know the daily or monthly requirements of every dye or chemical. If the stock is bellowing 45 days, then he gives requisition to head office for each product. Head office indent dyes and chemicals. FREQUENTLY INVENTORY CONTROL: ▪ Monthly inventory control. ▪ Annual inventory control. Scope of Inventory Control Raw materials:
  • 29. Page No 29 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College ▪ Dyes store. ▪ Other chemicals. ▪ Grey fabrics. ▪ Finished fabric. ▪ Spare parts. General store: ▪ Capital equipment. ▪ Accessories. ▪ Stationary. ▪ Maintenance parts. Spares Spare store officer keeps the spare part in store & make a list of spare parts. If the spare parts are little in stock, he gives requisition to maintenance manager. Technical manager give requisition to Head office. Head office indent spare parts or buy local market as per requirements. Finished Goods Inventory Finish fabrics from the compactor go to inspection team. From the inspection table the fabric weighted in weight meter & go to finish fabric storeroom. Here finished fabric store officer make a list of total finished products. He sends the finished fabric to the garments section as per shipment date or requirements of general manager of garments section. He also keeps the delivery list. Remarks For smooth running of a factory uninterrupted supply of raw materials is very essential. As soon as I saw the raw material control of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is good.
  • 30. Page No 30 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 5 Knitting Section Knitting Knitting is the process of creating fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarn. Each row of such loops hanging from the one immediately preceding it. There are two types of knitted fabric- Warp knitted fabric: Each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in a horizontal row. Weft knitted fabric: A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread and the thread runs in horizontal direction. Different sections of Knitting 1. Inspection section 2. Flat knitting section 3. Circular Knitting section 4. Store section Cloth Inspection Section: In cloth inspection section four machines are available. Flat Knitting Section: Generally, collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. Circular Knitting Section: This section contains 70 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting machines are of different types, made by different manufacturer and also have different specifications. In this section body fabric for knitted garments is produced. The different specifications of different machines are given one after another Store section: In this section knitted fabric and yarns are stored. Sequence of Operations in Knitting Section Sample Fabric Design Analysis
  • 31. Page No 31 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Setting the Machine for Specific Design Sample making for production Quality Verification Production Fabric Inspection Send To Batching Process Flow Chart for Knitting Yarn in package form Place the yarn package in the creel Feeding the yarn Set the m/c as per design & gsm Knitting Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting Inspection Numbering Types of Fabric Produce in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. 1. Single Jersey 2. Single Lacoste 3. Double Lacoste 4. P/C Lycra 5. Baby Terry 6. Fleece fabric 7. Pique 8. 2*2 RIB 9. 1*1 RIB 10. Lycra 11. Stripe fabric 12. Grey Mélange 13. Mesh 14. Waffle 15. Herringbone jersey 16. Mesh Pique 17. Mini pique
  • 32. Page No 32 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College S/J Fabric Waffle Fabric Warp Step Fabric Separation Fabric Hearingbone Fabric Fleece Fabric Slab s/j Fabric Mesh Fabric Gray Melange
  • 33. Page No 33 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Considerable Points to Produce Knitted Fabrics When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production & quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These are follows- 1. Type of fabric or design of fabric. 2. Fabric composition. 3. Finished G.S.M 4. Yarn count. 5. Types of Yarn (combed or carded) 6. Diameter of the fabric. 7. Stitch length. 8. Color depth. Production Parameter o Machine Diameter; o Machine rpm (revolution per minute); o No. of feeds or feeders in use; o Machine Gauge; o Count of yarn; o Required time (M/C running time); o Machine running efficiency. Different Parameter in Knitting Machine Machine pitch: It is defined as the distance between the centers of the two adjacent needles of the same row indicated in mm. Machine Gauge (E): Machine gauge denotes the number of needles per inch arranged on the needle carrier & based on the nominal machine diameter. Gauge (E) = (25.4/ pitch) mm. Loops: It is a basic unit by which fabric produced & meshed at its base with previous one. Stitch: The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabrics is the stitch. It consists of ayarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loops. Stitch length: Stitch length is the length of yarn which includes the needle loop & half the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally, the larger the stitch length, the more extensible & lighter the fabric & poorer the cover, opacity & brushing strength.
  • 34. Page No 34 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Basic Knitting Elements 1. Needle 2. Sinker 3. Cam. FUNCTION OF NEEDLES: Needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the new loop above it on the needle steam. In general, there are three types of needles FUNCTION OF CAM • To produce motion of needles. • To drive the needles. • Formation of loops. I n d u FUNCTION OF SINKER It may one or more of the following functions dependents upon the machines knitting action & consequent sinker shape & movement. Different Parts Of Knitting Machine Creel: Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Hear yarn package are store and ready to feed in the machine VDQ pulley: It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality of the product. Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive directive, then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase. Pulley belt: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
  • 35. Page No 35 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Brush: Its clean the pulley belt. Tension disk: It confronts the tension of the supply yarn Inlet and outlet stop motion: It is an important parts of the machine. It stops the machine instantly when a yarn is break. Yarn guide: Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder. MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel. MPF: It is Meminger's positive feed. Is also an important part of the machine. It’s given positive feed to the machine.
  • 36. Page No 36 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Feeder ring: It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together. Feeder: Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine. Needle: It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Its help the yarn to create a loop. And by this way fabric are produce. Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook, and received the new loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is then enclosed in the needle hook as the needle starts to descend. Sinker: It is most important element of the machine. Its help to loop forming, knocking over and holding down the loop. Needle track: Where all needle is placed together in a decent design. Cam box: Where the cam are set horizontally
  • 37. Page No 37 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Cam: Cam is device s which converts the rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other elements. Lycra Attachment: Lycra is placed here. And feeding to the machine. Sensors: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the lycra is break. Cylinder: Needle track are situated here Screen: It is a digital screen. Which show the all machine information and we can give command to the machine. Inverter: It is the heart of the circular knitting machine. Its control the speed of the machine.
  • 38. Page No 38 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Automatic oiler: It gives the machine oil all the time properly and automatically. Power Switch ON/OFF Switch: It helps the m/c to start and stop. Manual drive: To drive the machine manually. Machine motherboard: All the Electronic parts are placed here. Figure 7 Different knitting m/c parts Faults & Remedies of Knitting Fabrics Hole Mark: Causes: • During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook. • Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks. • If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density. • Badly Knot or splicing
  • 39. Page No 39 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Remedies: • Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform. • Use proper count of yarn. • Correctly set of yarn feeder. Needle Mark: Causes: • When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics. • If a needle or needle hook is slightly bending then needle mark comes on the fabrics. Remedies: • Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch. Sinker Mark: Causes: o When sinker corrode due to abrasion then sometimes cannot hold a new o Loop as a result sinker mark comes. o If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes. Remedies: o Sinker should be changed. Star Mark: Causes: o Yarn tension variation during production. o Buckling of the needle latch. o Low G.S.M fabric production. Remedies: o Maintain same Yarn tension during production. o Use good conditioned needles. Drop Stitches: Causes: o Defective needle. o If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook. o Take-down mechanism too loose. o Insufficient yarn tension. o Badly set yarn feeder. Remedies: o Needle should be straight & well. o Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation. o Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension. o Yarn tension should be properly.
  • 40. Page No 40 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Oil stain: Causes: o When oil lick through the needle trick then it passes on the fabrics and make a Line. Remedies: o Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics. o Well maintenance as well as proper oiling. Pin hole: Causes: o Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric. Remedies: o Change the needle. Barrie: A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) stripe(s). Causes: o This fault comes from yarn fault. o If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn. o Different luster, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn. o During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics. o In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver. Remedies: o We can use this fabric in white color. Fly: Causes: o In knitting section too much lint is flying to and for that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production. Remedies: o Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time. o By cleaning the floor continuously. o By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor. Yarn contamination: Causes: o If yarn contains foreign fiber, then it remains in the fabric even after finishing, o If lot, count mixing occurs. Remedies: o By avoiding lot, count mixing. o Fault less spinning.
  • 41. Page No 41 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Different faults picture of Knit Fabric
  • 42. Page No 42 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Different knitting machineries
  • 43. Page No 43 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 06 Production Planning Sequence & Operation Production of the industry describe to the below sequentially given which may expresses the working principle of every operation: Batch Section According to TextileGlossary.com –– “A group of units of products of the same type, structure, color and finish, class and composition, manufactured under essentially the same conditions and essentially at the same time, and submitted at any one time for inspection and testing.” Function or purpose of the batch o To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source o To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following parameter: o Order sheet (Received from buyer) o Dyeing shade (Color or white, Light or Dark) o M/C capacity o Fabric structure o Yarn type, etc. o To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor by trolley with batch card. o To keep records for every previous dyeing. Proper batching criteria o To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c o To ensure every dyeing m/c running in full production. o To minimize the m/c washing time or preparation time. Batch management Primary batch is done by the dyeing manager. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Then the works is adjusting, according to m/c condition. Remarks Proper batch can minimize the batch-to-batch shade variation. It can near or same dyeing condition for every batch of same shade. Thus, it improves the dyeing quantity minimize dyeing cost a lot.
  • 44. 44 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Physical Laboratory Lab department Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying Dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR” Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task before bulk production. Sequence of Lab Operations A number of operations are done in lab section. This are- Swatch receives (physical STD. Or reflectance value) Fabric & dye selection Recipe prediction Sampling & pipetting Dyeing Dispatch Fabric is always recommended by buyer & dyes selection depends upon the technician decision. Swatch receives: Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab section through the merchandiser. Fabric & dye selection: According to the buyer swatch , the type of fabric is selected &the dye selection depends on the following factor: o The dye stuff contains “Metamerism” or not. o The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color. o Sometimes buyers recommended the dye to produce particular color. o The cost of dye stuff. Recipe prediction: o Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or Spectrophotometer . o By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer. o Then by data color software after selecting the dye some recipes are found with the best suitable recipe comes first & then others.
  • 45. 45 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College o If the recipe shows “Metamerism” then changes the selected dye. Sampling & pipetting: According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes & chemicals areweighted & stock solutions are made. Then pipe ting is done according to the recipe. Stock solutions are made according to the recipe%. For Auxiliaries: Salt – 20% stock solution; Soda: 10% stock solution. Acetic Acid: 0.5 g/l; Leveling agent: 3.5 g/l; Detergent: 200ml/l; Dyeing: After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted fabric is taken in sample dyeing Machine beaker & dyeing is completed. Here sample wt. 10gm & liquor ratio 1:8. If the buyer chooses the sample, then the recipe is sent to the dyeing section for bulk production through lab dip program card. Dispatch: After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by spectrophotometer or by eye vision in verified matching cabinet. If it shows “Metamerism” then recipe correction is done & again samples are prepared until no “Metamerism” & shade match occur. Then in a lab dip card 3 samples are attached. One card is sent to merchandiser & another to buyer through merchandiser. Soda & Salt Calculation South East Textile (Pvt) Ltd. use the following chart for calculate the amount of salt and soda according to the shade% - Light shade: M:L 1:10 Sample weight 10 gm. Shade% G.salt(g/l) Soda (g/l) Salt-20% (g/l) Salt solid Soda-10% (0.0001-0.5)% 30 8 22ml 4.5gm 12.0ml Medium shade : M:L 1:08 Sample weight 10 gm. Shade% G.sal(g/l) Soda (g/l) Salt-20%(g/l) Salt solid Soda-10% (0.51-1)% 40 10 16ml 3.2gm 8.0ml (1.1-2)% 60 15 24ml 4.8gm 12.0ml
  • 46. 46 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Procedure for 100% Cotton Fabric: o Calculate the recipe. o Weight the fabric. o Take the beaker keep the fabric into the beaker. o Then the dyes, chemicals & required amount of water take in to the beaker by the digital pipetting. o Then weight the salt by the electric balance and add in to the beaker. o Then the beaker set in to the lab dyeing machine for dyeing. o Start the program for dyeing the whole dyeing time 60 min at 60°C temperature. (The dyeing time and temperature depends on which classes of dyes are used for dyeing) o After 30 min add the then add the soda ash. By pipetting. o Again, run the program next 30 minute the same term. o Finished the dyeing time then the sample taken from the beaker first Hot wash & then cold wash. o Then acid wash as for neutralization. o Then soaping required soap solution 10 min at 90° C temperature. o After the fabric again cold. o Then dry the lab dip and compare with the standard. Dyeing Section FLOW CHART FOR DYEING Batching Select machine no. Fabric loading Select production program Pretreatment Dark shade: M:L 1:6 Sample weight 10 gm. Shade% G.salt (g/l) Soda (g/l) Salt-20% (g/l) Salt solid Soda- 10% Caustic (g/l) Caustic10% (g/l) (2.1-3)% 70 18 21ml 4.2gm 10.8ml *** *** (3.1-5)% 80 20 24ml 4.8gm 12.0ml *** *** (6-8)% 80 5 24ml 4.8gm 3.0ml 1.0 g/l 0.6 g/l 8%> 90 5 24ml 4.8gm 3.0ml 1.2 g/l 0.72 g/l Figure 8 Salt & soda calculation
  • 47. 47 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Select recipe for dyeing Recipe confirmed by PO Dyeing Post treatment Unload Production Parameters Ph o During h2o2 bleaching ph 9.2-12 o During reactive dyeing ph 10.5-12.5 o During disperse dyeing ph 4.5-6.0 Temperature: o For cotton scouring: 98º c o For cotton cold wash: 30º -40º c o For cotton hot wash: 70º -80º c o For cotton acid wash: 60º c o for cotton dyeing: 80-85º c (for hot brand) 65º c (for cold brand) o polyester dying: 130º c Time: o For scouring: 40-60 minutes o For disperses dyeing 50-60 minutes. o For cotton dyeing 120-130minutes. M: L ratio: o For pretreatment M:L ratio maintained 1:7 o For reactive dyeing M:L ratio maintained 1:6 Process for Dyeing Cotton DEMINERALIZATION PROCEDURE OR LOADING HOT o Wetting agent + Sequestering agent o Temperature rises up to 50°C & run the process for 30 min. o Then drain the liquor. SCOURING-BLEACHING PROCESS o Scouring-Bleaching is carried out in the same both and at the same time simultaneously. Procedure of Scouring-Bleaching o At first required amount of water is taken in the m/c.
  • 48. 48 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College o Then the fabric is loaded . o Then Sequestering, Stabilizer is added at 500 C. For s/j annticreasing is added. o Runtime 6 minutes. o Then Temperature rises to 600 C. o Then Caustic soda is added by dosing 6 minutes. Runtime 5 minutes. o Then rise temp. to 70o C. Then H2O2 dosing by 8 minutes. ✓ Then Keep 98 min ✓ Drain. o Acid is transferred at 600 C. Runtime 10 minute then Drain ENZYME WASH o Acetic acid inject at 35°C. o Temperature raises up to 62°C & keeping P H =4.5–5. o Enzyme (Bio touch C-35) is given in linear dosing process. o Run at 55°C for 60 min. o After that temperature raises up to 80°C & run for 10 min. o Drain the liquor. o Cold wash is given for (5/ -10/ ). WASHING PROCEDURE o After B.D the fabric is washed with cold water. o Then it is neutralized by acetic acid. o After doing this fabric is soap washed at 80°C for 10– 20 min. SOFTENER APPLICATION o After washing softener is applied at 40°C for 20 min in acidic medium. o Softener dosing is done for 8 min. o After it the fabric is washed with cold water. Main Parts of The Machines o Main tank o Preparation tank o Pump o Filter
  • 49. 49 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College o Heat Exchanger o Additional tank o Lid FILTER The filter eliminates the loose fibers in the dye bath, consequently it reduces the loose fiber loads on the fabric. Changing and cleaning the filters is sometimes forgotten, with the result that the dyeing machine's nozzle pressure decreases, with the effect that running is disturbed and tangles can occur. Automatic self-cleaning filter system: o No cleaning of filter. o No pressure variation in the nozzles due to lint buildup due to automatic regulation system. o No lint on fabric due to 100 % filtration of the circulation liquor. ADDITIONAL TANK Addition tank is used for: o Color dosing o Salt dosing o Chemical dosing o Auxiliaries injection o Salt dissolving WAYS OF LIQUOR FLOW FROM ADDITIONAL TANK TWO WAYS- o Injection o Dosing o Linear dosing o Progressive dosing o Degressive dosing Common Dyeing Faults with Their Remedies UNEVEN DYEING Causes: o Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching). o Improper color dosing. o Using dyes of high fixation property. o Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. o Lack of control on dyeing Machine Remedies: o By ensuring even pretreatment. o By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. o Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
  • 50. 50 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College o Proper controlling of dyeing Machine BATCH TO BATCH SHADE VARIATION Causes: o Fluctuation of Temperature. o Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals. o Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals. o Dyes lot variation. o Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio. o Improper pretreatment. Remedies: o Use standard dyes and chemicals. o Maintain the same liquor ratio. o Follow the standard pretreatment procedure. o Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. o The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily. PATCHY DYEING EFFECT o Entanglement of fabric. o Faulty injection of alkali. o Improper addition of color. o Due to hardness of water. o Due to improper salt addition. o Dye migration during intermediate dyeing. o Uneven heat in the machine, etc. Remedies: o By ensuring proper pretreatment. o Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. o Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor. o Proper salt addition. Roll to Roll variation or Meter to Meter variation: Causes: o Poor migration property of dyes. o Improper dyes solubility. o Hardness of water. o Faulty Machine speed, etc Remedies: o Use standard dyes and chemicals. o Proper Machine speed. o Use of soft water
  • 51. 51 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College CREASE MARK: Causes: o Poor opening of the fabric rope o Shock cooling of synthetic material o If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal o Due to high-speed Machine running Remedies: o Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. o Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature o Reducing the Machine load o Higher liquor ratio DYE SPOT: Causes: o Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath. o Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath. Remedies: o By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals o By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed WRINKLE MARK Causes: o Poor opening of the fabric rope o Shock cooling of synthetic material o High temperature entanglement of the fabric Remedies: o Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. o Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature o Higher liquor ratio. Average Production Monthly average production in dyeing floor is 240 ton. Remarks Yarn dyeing machine is not available in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. So, yarn dyeing is not possible. So that yarns are dyed from other industries.
  • 52. 52 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Finishing Section FINISHING: After dyeing knit fabric is required to finish. During eyeing all knit fabric are dyed in tubular form. According to buyer’s requirement knit fabric are finished in open form or tubular form. Objective of finishing o Improving the appearance — Luster, whiteness, etc. o Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its softness, suppleness, fullness, etc. o Special properties required for particular uses — water — proofing, flame proofing, etc. o Covering of the faults in the original cloth. o Increasing the weight of the cloth. Description of Finishing Process Finishing section is divided into two sections, they are: o Openline o Tube line o The machines that are used in open line that are given bellow: o Slitting m/c o De -watering m/c o Stenter o Dryer o Open Compactor The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow: o De-watering m/c o Dryer o Tube Compactor De-watering m/c: After finishing the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for de- watering. This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing. This is the main function of the de-watering machine. But here also control some important factor of the fabric quality The basic function of the de-watering machine : o To remove the water from the fabric. o To control the width of the fabric. o To control the length of the fabric. o To control the spirality of the fabric.
  • 53. 53 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College o To control the grain line of the fabric. o To control the over feeding system. Dryer: After de-watering then the fabric is passed through the dryer. The main function of the dryer to dry the fabric & full fill the other fabric properties according the to Buyer’s requirement. This dryer has four chambers. The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the machine & the GSM of the fabric. The vibration speed of the machine for heavy jersey / GSM high is 750 m/min & Single jersey / normal GSM is 500 m/min. The temperature of the machine depends on the machine speed. Higher the temperature of the machine; higher the the speed. The basic function of the dryer are as follows: o To dry the fabric. o To control the over feed system. (Shrinkage control) o To control the vibration. (To increase the GSM) The temperature of different chambers according to the shade of the fabric are: Shade Chamber 1 Chamber2 Chamber 3 Chamber 4 Light 120° C 115° C 110° C 105° C Medium 120° C 130° C 140° C 150° C Deep 170° C 160° C 150° C 140°C Figure 9 Temp. Of different chamber in dryer m/c. Tube Compactor: The mechanism of the compactor machine is classified into four sections. In the first section, enter the fabric into the machine by the tube form. The second section is the Edge driver. The function of the edge driver to increase & decrease the GSM & dia of the fabric. Here also passed the steam to soften the fabric & slightly shade match. The third section of the machine & it’s also called the compaction station. Here to control the GSM & calendaring the fabric. There is also a blade to smooth the fabric surface. In section four the output section of the machine. Here the fabric keeps on to the up & down moveable table. The up & down movement of the table control with the photodetector (Sensor). In the case of deep shade, the steam & roller pressure will be high & for light shade steaming & roller pressure will be lower. Suppose, we input fabric GSM 220. Then we control the output GSM maximum 225 & minimum 212. The main function of the compactor machine: o To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease) o To control the dia. o To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease) To smooth the fabric surface. o To calendar the fabric o Open width fabric
  • 54. 54 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Slitting m/c: After finished the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for slitting. The basic function of the de-watering machine: o To slitting the fabrics. De watering m/c: After finished the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for de- watering. This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing. This is the main function of the de-watering machine. But here also control some important factor of the fabric quality The basic function of the de-watering machine: o To remove the water from the fabric. o To control the width of the fabric. o To control the length of the fabric. o To control the spirality of the fabric. o To control the grainline of the fabric. Stentering m/c: The main mechanism of the stentering machine, underfeed roller to feed the fabric, overfeed roller to increase and decrease GSM, spending roller to remove the crease mark, mahalo to adjust the bowing angle, Fabric wheel to stretch the fabric and contact with the chain, The main function of the Stentering machine: o To control the width of the fabric. o To control the length of the fabric. o To control the spirality of the fabric. o To dry the fabric. o To control the overfeeding system o To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease) o To control the shrinkage of the fabric Open Compactor: The mechanism of the compactor machine-classified in the four sections. The section-wise mechanism in the first section to enter the fabric into the machine by the open form. In the second section Edge driver. The function of the edge driver to increase & decrease the GSM & dia of the fabric. Here also passed the steam to soften the fabric & slightly shade match. This is the third section of the machine it’s also called the compaction station. Here to control the GSM & calendaring the fabric. Here also a blade to smooth the fabric surface. In section four the output section of the machine. Here the fabric keeps on to the up & down moveable table. The up & down movement of the table control with the photodetector (Sensor). In the case of deep shade, the steam & roller pressure is high & the light shade steaming & roller pressure is low. Suppose, we input fabric GSM 220. Then we control the output GSM maximum 225 & minimum 212.
  • 55. 55 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College The main function of the compactor machine: o To control the dia. o To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease) To smooth the fabric surface. o To calendar the fabric. o To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease) Average Production The monthly average production on the finishing floor is 240 Ton. Remarks The sue ding and heat setting are not done in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. So, sue ding and heat setting is done from other industries through subcontract.
  • 56. 56 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 07 Quality Assurance Quality Assurance System South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is more concern about quality. The quality assurance department assign to maintain consistently uniform quality on the material in process and various stages of manufacturing. Objects of Quality Control o Research. o Selection of raw materials. o Process control. o Process development. o Product testing. o Specification test Quality Assurance Procedure Quality assurance procedure may be divided into two major parts: o Online quality control o Offline quality control Online Q.C Online quality control comprises with the raw material quality control and the process control. Raw material control: As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality so we must ensure the best quality of raw material with an economical consideration. The fabric must be without faults, with proper absorbency, whiteness as per requirement of the subsequent process. The chemicals should be with a known concentration with a higher degree of purity. All the m/c’s engaged should be higher a precision. Process control: The method chosen for process must be provided with the necessary accurate parameters. Here the specific gravity, water level, pH, time, temperature at each stage is checked. Lab-dip preparation: In any dye house, a laboratory equipped with required machines and equipment is essential. It assists in product prediction, minimization of time consumption and waste reduction. It also in producing the product of required quality.
  • 57. 57 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Prior to the bulk production, laboratory plays a vital role in shade matching and detecting the characteristics of the dyes and chemicals to be used in the larger scale of production. In South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd., for preparing lab-dip, lab-dip machines are used. There are two lab-dip machines in its laboratory. At first, recipe % of standard sample is measured by CCM (Computer color matching) system. Then by taking that recipe lab in-charge produce lab trail and match with standard according to buyer requirements. After approving to this sample, this sample is sending for bulk production with the recipe. Offline quality control: The final product should pass against the norms given by the buyer. The following tests are generally done- Offline Test Done in This Factory o Physical test • Fabric weight • Dimensional stability to washing • Fabric width o Color fastness test • wash • water • rubbing • perspiration • phenolic yellowing • hydrolysis of reactive dye • oxidative bleach damage • print durability • appearance after wash o Chemical and other test • PH value • Fiber analysis • Strength of hydrogen peroxide • Strength of acetic acid • Strength of HCl • Strength of custic soda • Strength of soda ash • Strength of potassium-per-manganate
  • 58. 58 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College • Analysis of soda ash • PH & hardness of glubar salt • PH & hardness of water • PH & hardness of common salt comparison of stabilizer • comparison of soaping agent • comparison of wetting agent • comparison of anticreasing agent o List of Equipment’s • Yarn tester • Hanna pH meter • Electric balance • Sample dryer • Sunflower washing m/c Wascator • Precision tumble dryer Washtec-p • Data color international –spectrophotometer • Crock meter • Light box Inspection m/c # 1 • Light box Inspection m/c # 2 • Scissors Electronic balance • GSM cutter • Indication sticker • Measuring tape Quality Assurance Procedure All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, SETL out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc. are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four-point system. Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor faulty collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round problem etc. properly counted and recorded. Quality Standard The four-point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four-point grading system followed by inspection at South East Textile (Pvt) Ltd. Four-point grading system Size of defects point 3 inches or less 1 point Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 points
  • 59. 59 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Following table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section at South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. Following table shows common collar and cuff fault and response taken by inspection section- Rejection criteria for collar & cuff No. Faults Response 1. Wrong ply Reject 2. Hole Reject 3. Slubs Reject 4. Needle kine Reject Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 points Over 9 inch 4 points Rejection criteria for body & ribs No. Faults Response 1. Needle mark Major needle line is rejected 2. Stripe Major needle line is rejected 3. Barre mark Reject 4. Contamination & fly Approved for color but for white shed 1 point is assigned 5. Slubs 1 point 6. Thick thin place Reject 7. Birds eye 1 point 8. Pin holes 1 point 9. Wrong design Reject 10. Mixed yarn Discuss with manager 11. Sinker mark Major sinker mark is rejected. 12. Missing yarn Use 4 point 13. Holes Do 14. Oil line/stain Do 15. Chemical Do 16. Dirt stain Do 17. Crease line Do 18 Uneven tension Discuss with manager Figure 10 Reject criteria for body & Rib
  • 60. 60 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College 5. Wrong design Reject 6. Wrong tripping Reject 7. Fly & contamination Acceptable for color but not for white 8. First round problem Reject 9. Uneven tension Discuss with manager 10. Missing yarn Reject 11. Crease line Reject 12. Rust line Reject 13. Oil stripe Reject 14. Thick-thin Reject 15. Chemical Reject Figure 11 Reject criteria for body & Rib Following theory is used to calculation of Acceptance Quality Level: Quality Control in Grey Fabric Inspection Some Points Are Needed to Maintain for High Quality Fabric: • Brought good quality yarn. • Machines are oiled and greased accordingly. • G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately. • Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month. • Grey Fabrics are checked by 4-point grading system. Quality Control in Dyeing & Finishing South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd assures the quality of the products of dyeing section in the following three steps: 1. In laboratory 2. In Dyeing section & 3. In Finishing Section Procedures are described below: In laboratory: • Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement • Recipe prediction for sample dyeing • Sample dyeing until matching with swatch card Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here. In dyeing section: According to the buyer’s sample, sample dyeing is done in sample dyeing machine in dyeing shed & again matched with the approved sample. Points Counted × 36" × 100 Roll Length × Fabric Width
  • 61. 61 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College ➢ If result is OK, then bulk production. ➢ During dyeing, samples are taken until accurate shade matching. ➢ The interval may be 30-40 minutes. ➢ After dyeing sample is collected after softening matching is done. ➢ Last of all, sample is collected after fixation & matched. ➢ Then allowed the fabrics to be finished. In finishing section: By using a series of finishing machines correct width, softness & appearance are maintained according to requirements. Then sampling is done for several times to test GSM, Shrinkage & fastness properties. Finally, fabric is inspected & prepared for delivery Procedure of The Different Tests Different types of tests of the dyed fabric are done in laboratories of South East Textiles (Pvt) ltd. Different types of method (Standard or buyer’s recommended) are followed for different types of tests. The process of the different tests of fabrics & lab. Dip dyeing is described in the following section: Color Fastness Test Procedure Color Fastness: The “color fastness” of a colored textile is defined as its resistance to these changes when subjected to particulates of conditions. It follows that color fastness must be specified in terms of these changes and expressed in terms of the magnitude. Color Fastness To Wash Test Required materials: ▪ Sample size 40×100 mm ▪ Multifiber at 40×100 mm ▪ ECE detergent (WOB)– 4g/L ▪ Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3.H2O2.3H2O2-1g/L) - 1g/L ▪ Distilled water ▪ Normal cold water ▪ Steel balls ▪ Required instrument: ▪ Rota Wash ▪ Scissor ▪ Stitch machine Procedure: • Cut sample & multifiber at 100×400 mm and then stitch. • 50 ml ECE detergent (WOB) & 50 ml Sodium per borate is taken with the sample. • For Marks & Spencer, the solution is taken by the following: Formula:
  • 62. 62 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College (Sample fabric + Multifiber weight) × 50 ml • The sample is kept in 600 C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine • Rinse the sample twice with cold water. • Dry at 60°C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be more than 150°C. Report: Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey Scale & Staining Scale. Color Fastness To Water Test Test specimen: o Sample fabric – 50 mm × 50 mm o Multifiber fabric – 50 mm × 100 mm o Cut the multifiber into two pieces o Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multifiber Testing Solution o Water is taken as required Method: ▪ The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample). ▪ Water is taken in the peri dish as required. ▪ Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping. ▪ The specimen is put for 30 minutes. ▪ A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room temperature. ▪ Excess solution is poured off. ▪ Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at (37 ±2)0 C for 4 hours. ▪ The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600 C) Report: Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale &Staining Scale. Color Fastness To Perspiration Test Test specimen: o Sample fabric – 50 mm × 50 mm o Multifiber fabric – 50 mm × 100 mm o Cut the multifiber into two pieces o Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multifiber Testing Solution: 1. Alkaline Solution: ▪ Histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O)– 5.00g/L NaCl – 5.00 g/L ▪ Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) – 2.5 g/L PH ▪ 8 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)
  • 63. 63 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College 2. Acidic Solution: ▪ Histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O)– 5.00g/L NaCl – 5.00 g/L ▪ Sodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) – 2.2 g/L PH ▪ 5.5 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH) Method: ▪ The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample). ▪ Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two-peri dish. Here, M:L is taken 1:20. ▪ Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping. ▪ The specimen is put for 30 minutes. ▪ A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room temperature. ▪ Excess solution is poured off. ▪ Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at (37±2)0 C for 4 hours. ▪ The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600 C) Report: Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining Scale. Color The Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet) TEST Sample: ▪ Dyed fabric – 15 cm × 5 cm ▪ White Test Cloth - 5 cm × 5 cm Procedure: White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire. - The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed. For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and socked and squeeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with stainless steel wire and run ten times manually then assess the staining on to the rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed. Report: Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale. There are also some tests are done in the lab. And the process is described below- Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality) Sample: • Two piece of 50 cm×50 cm fabric is taken for test.
  • 64. 64 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Procedure: ▪ Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs for conditioning before starting test. Cut the sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm. Stitch the sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer’s choice. ▪ Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHOSCOURING is flat dry. SHRINKAGE TEST CALCULATION: 𝑆ℎ𝑟𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑎𝑔𝑒% = 𝐵𝑒𝑓𝑜𝑟𝑒 𝑊𝑎𝑠ℎ − 𝐴𝑓𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑊𝑎𝑠ℎ 𝐵𝑒𝑓𝑜𝑟𝑒 𝑊𝑎𝑠ℎ × 100 SPIRALITY TEST CALCULATION: 𝑆 = 𝑆1+𝑆2 2 𝑆𝑝𝑖𝑟𝑎𝑙𝑖𝑡𝑦 = (𝑆 × 100) 𝐴 Suppose, S1 = The right-side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash. S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash. A = Length obtains after wash. PH OF A DYED FABRIC Test specimen: 2 gm of dyed fabric is taken. The fabric is cut into pieces of (0.5 cm × 0.5 cm) Procedure: ▪ The sample is taken into conical flax. ▪ 100 ml distilled water (slightly warm) is taken into the conical flax. ▪ The conical flax is put on the Magnetic Stirrer for 30 minutes. Report: The PH of the conical flax is measured by Digital PH meter. Light Box There are two light boxes in the laboratories of SETL project 1. Light box for European buyer
  • 65. 65 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College 2. Light box for American buyer Different light used for shade matching of different buyers is as follows Buyers Primary Secondary Tertiary M&S MS TL 84(P15) MS D56---10 MS A10 Sains Buery (FT) TL 84—10 D56---10 BHS TL 84---10 F 11 10 Kappahl D65—10 TL 84---10 A10 Garaye D65—10 TL 84---10 Columbia D65—10 CWF Chaps A10 D56---10 Ralph Lauren A10 D56---10 Abercombi & Ritch A10 D56---10 Figure 12 Shade match in light box Remarks The quality of the product in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. Are checked very carefully.
  • 66. 66 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 08 Maintenance Maintenance Machine, buildings and other facilities are subjected to deterioration due to their use and exposure to environmental condition. Process of deterioration, if unchecked, culminates in rendering these service facilities unserviceable and brings them to a standstill. Industry, therefore has no choice but to attend them from time to time to repair and recondition them so as to elongate their life to the extent it is economically and physically possible to do so. It is in this in the context that maintenance assumes importance as an engineering function. It is made responsible for provision of a condition of these machines, buildings and service that will permit uninterrupted implementation of plans requiring their use. Objectives of Maintenance 1. To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working condition. 2. To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer. 3. To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thus to have control over the production program. 4. To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range. 5. To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production. Maintenance of Machinery Machine maintenance Flow chart Preventive maintenance: Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine activity to ensure on time inspections or checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful depreciation. Break down maintenance:
  • 67. 67 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform its normal functions. Schedule maintenance: Maintenance of different machines is made by expert engineer of maintenance department. Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different important parts is done. In South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. follows the above three type’s maintenance. Manpower Set-Up for Maintenance 1 A Shift 06:00 AM – 02:00 PM 2 B Shift 02:00 PM – 10:00 PM 3 General Shift 09:00 AM – 06:00 PM Maintenance Procedure Normally preventive maintenance is done here. During maintenance procedure following points should be checked: Maintenance of knitting machine: MAINTENANCE: MECHANICAL Machine: Dyeing m/c Serial Item need to be checked & serviced 01 Crease the winch bearing 02 Complete cleaning of machine 03 Cleaning of drain valves, replace scales if required 04 Check air supply filters, regulators, and auto drain seals 05 Clean filters element and blow out 06 Greasing of unloading roller bearings 07 Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller gearbox 08 Checking of unloading roller coupling and Packing 09 Checking and cleaning of main vessel level Indicator 10 Pump bearing and refill if required 11 Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves 12 Check all belts and belt tension SL. Items need to be checked & serviced 1. Check and tightening all motor terminals. 2. Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals 3. Clean the ventilation fans of panel board and circular fan on top of m/c 4. Check and clean the interfacing and data cables.
  • 68. 68 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College 13 Check all door seals Figure 13 Mechanical Maintenance of dyeing m/c MAINTENANCE: ELECTRICAL Machine: Dyeing m/c Serial no. Items needed to be checked and serviced 1 Check & clean fluff and dirt at al motor fan cover 2 Check all motors terminals 3 Check main panels (by using compressed air) 4 Check panel cooling fan & clean it filter 5 Clean main pump inverter and its cooling fan 6 Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over loads 7 Visual checking of all power & control cables 8 Check all pressure switches 9 Check DC drive of kneel motors 10 Check calibration of main vessel 11 Check calibration of all additional tank 12 Check all pneumatic solenoids 13 Check calibration of heating / cooling 14 Check setting of tangle sensor 15 Check setting & operation of lid safety Switches 16 Check all emergency switches 17 Check all indicating lamps 18 Check all on / off switches 19 Check all signal isolators 20 Check key pad & display of controller 21 Check proximity switches Figure 14 Electrical Maintenance of dyeing m/c Maintenance Tools & Equipment & Their Functions SL NO TOOL NAME FUNCTION 1. Combination tools / spanner Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 2. Socket ratchet set Tightening of nuts & bolts. 3. Slide range Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 4. Monkey pliers Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 5. Pipe threat cutting tools To cut the threat in pipe. 6. Bearing puller To assist the opening of bearing from shaft. 7. Pipe range Tightening & loosening of pipe joint.
  • 69. 69 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College 8. Pipe cutting tools For pipe cutting 9. Hole punch Punching the hole. 10. Divider For circle marking on metal & wood. 11. Easy opener To open the broken head bolt. 12. External threat die For external threat cutting. 13. Heavy scissor Cutting of gasket & steel 14. Oil can Oiling of moving parts. 15. Drill machine and drill bit. For drilling. 16 Grease gun For greasing of moving parts of m/c. 17. Grinding m/c For grinding & cutting of mild steel. 18. Welding m/c For welding & cutting. 19. Spirit leveler For perfect leveling. 20. File For smoothing the surface. 21. Hammer For scaling & right angling 22. Circlip tools Circlip opening & closing. 23. Hacksaw blade For metal cutting. 24. Handsaw (wood) For wood cutting 25. Grinding stone For smooth finishing. Figure 15 Maintenance tool equipment & function Remarks To make serviceable of machines, buildings and other service facilities maintenance is very essential. It reduces maintenance cost as for as possible thereby leading to a reduction in factory overheads and prolongs the useful life of the factory plant & machinery. When I was trainee of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd., then I saw that the maintenance staff and overheads of maintenance department is very skilled and efficient.
  • 70. 70 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Chapter 09 Utility Services Utility Facilities Available For smooth functioning of any production unit, uninterrupted and required utility services are indispensable. Success of any industry largely depends on this factor. Any irregularity or lack in the required utility services immediately results in unexpected halt of the production process. An Industry needs various utilities depending on its manufacturing process. In South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd., the major utilities are available- ▪ Power (Electricity) ▪ Water ▪ Natural gas ▪ Compressed air ▪ Steam Sources of Utilities The main utility which is used by South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is natural gas. From natural gas generator produce electricity. From natural gas and electricity in association with mechanical and electrical apparatus, South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. produces other utilities like water, steam, compressed air etc. Capacity & Other Technical Details Power (Electricity) Generator house is the main power producing plant of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. There are three generators in generator house. Two of them being gas generator and another is diesel generator. The two-gas generator are of 900W and 750W respectively and Diesel generator is of 400 KVA. SPECIFICATION OF GENERATOR: Name: Generator Manufacturer Name: waukesha Model: VHP5900GSID Origin: USA Capacity: 750KW Units: 01 Name: Generator
  • 71. 71 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Manufacturer Name: Waukesha Model: VHP5904GSID Origin: USA Capacity: 900KW Units: 01 Steam The required steam is produced by boiler. There are two boilers in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. both of which are fire tube boiler. Name: Boiler Manufacturer Name: Cochran Model: T Origin: USA Capacity: 7710 KW Units: 01 Compressed Air The compressed air is supplied from air compressor. There are two air compressors in South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. Name: Compressor Manufacturer Name: Worthington Model: Creyssensac RLR 50bx6 Origin: France Capacity: 353 m3 /h Pressure: 10.58bar Units: 02 Water The water source of South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. is deep tube well. The deep tube well is about 260 ft deep. The average water consumption is 40-50 m³ / hr. and the water softening method is Base Exchange method. Standard water quality for dye house: Minimum standard Permissible concentration Color Colorless Smell No bad smell Water hardness <50 PH Value 7-8 Neutral Dissolved solid < 1 mg/1 Inorganic salt < 500 mg/1 Iron (Fe) < 0.1 mg/1 Manganese (mn) <0.01 mg/1 Copper (Cu) < 0.005 mg/l Nitrate (NO3) < 50 mg/l
  • 72. 72 Shyamoli Textile Engineering College Nitrite (NO2) < 5 mg/1 Figure 16 Standard water quality for dye house Hardness check: The hardness should be checked after every 6 hrs. It should be checked by the hardness test kits. The using hardness test kits are Hanna Instrument. Made in Italy. If the hardness is going to be 0.5 on the syringe scale. Then have to do the regeneration process. The capacity of the vessel 115m3 / hr or 115 ton/hr. Test procedure: ▪ At first to get the 50 ml of soft water in a beaker. ▪ Then add of 5 drops of hardness buffer solution & 1 drop of Calmagite indicator. ▪ Then add reagent EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid) indicator by a syringe. It should be mixed until the water color light blue. ▪ If the syringe indicator indicates 0.1 then hardness of water 3 & 0.2 then the hardness Gas The source of gas is government agency. Gas is required mainly for generation of electricity, boiler to produce steam, the burners of heat setting m/c. As South East Textiles (Pvt) Ltd. generates their own electricity, the gas consumption is quite high. The gas consumption is 350-400 m³/hr. Remarks For smooth running of factory main utilities like gas, electricity or steam is very essential. Sometimes gas pressure is low than required pressure. When the gas pressure is low, then diesel generator runs. Government should have to ensure proper gas supply for Industrial purpose.