A Series of Lectures By Mr. Allah Dad Khan Former DG Agriculture Extension KPK , Provincial Project Director CMP II MINFAl Islamabad and Visiting Professor the University of Agriculture Peshawar Pakistan

3. Kitchen Gardening A-Z in Pakistan
A
Series of Lectures
By
Mr. Allah Dad Khan
Former DG Agriculture Extension KPK ,
Provincial Project Director CMP II MINFAl
Islamabad and Visiting Professor the
University of Agriculture Peshawar Pakistan
Photo: Musee & Jardins Du Chateau De Vendeuvre

4. Kitchen Garden
1. Vegetables occupy an important place in our
daily life particularly for vegetarians. Vegetables
are the only source to increase not only the
nutritive values of foods but also its palatability.
2. For a balanced diet, an adult should have an
intake of 85 g of fruits and 300 g of vegetables
per day as per the dietary recommendation of
nutrition specialists.
3. But the present level of production of
vegetables in our country can permit a per
capita consumption of only 120 g of vegetables
per day.

5. Kitchen Gardening
1. A kitchen garden is where herbs and
vegetables are grown around the house for
household use.
2. Since early times a small plot near to the
house has been used for growing a variety of
vegetables according to the season.
3. Local varieties such as radish, broad leaf
mustard, chilli, beans, pumpkins etc. are all
grown in the kitchen garden.

6. Why Kitchen Gardening ?
1. For people to stay healthy it's very important to
have a healthy diet.
2. A healthy diet means a balanced mix of rice,
bread, pulses, vegetables, herbs, fruit etc.
3. Vegetables are a very important part of a good
diet as they contain various nutrients for many
body functions.
4. For growing, energy and protection against
disease, vegetables play an essential role.
5. Vegetables are especially important for the
young, and for pregnant and nursing women.

7. Benefits of Kitchen Gardening
1. to grow healthy, fresh vegetables yourself;
2. to save the cost of buying vegetables and
herbs;
3. waste resources such as sweepings, kitchen
scraps and dirty water can be recycled onto
the garden;
4. wasteland around the house can be made
productive.

8. How to make a Kitchen Garden
Because there's often no tradition of kitchen gardens, many people can't grow the
vegetables they need for a good diet. Or they spend lots of money on vegetables,
or their health suffers from lack of vegetables. It may be that you haven't been
able to make a kitchen garden. There are several reasons why it may be difficult to
make a kitchen garden, or if you have made one, it is not successful.
For example:
a) pests, diseases or livestock have destroyed the crop;
b) no good seed or seedlings;
c) lack of space;
d) lack of water;
e) lack of fertility;
f) no spare time;
g) lack of the right skills.
These vegetables have wilted because of lack of water In this chapter easy
methods are described to solve these sorts of problems, and so help the family to
be able to grow good produce from their kitchen garden

9. Prerequisite for Kitchen Gardening
• To make and manage a kitchen garden easily, and
to give best production, the following things are
important :- Good management of the garden
needs knowledge of all these. Then we can make
our kitchen garden more successful
1 .Site Selection and preparation
2. Variety Selection
3. Planting
4. Management of Kitchen Gardening
5.Harvesting

10. 1. Site Selection & Preparation
1. Day length /Light
hours
2. Soil and soil
preparation
3. Variety Selection
4. ccesAs
5. Air Drainage
6. Proximity to Trees &
Shrubs

11. 1. Day Length/ light
1. Increasing or decreasing day length affects
1. Flower initiation
2. Bulbing & tuber development
2. Short day plants:
1. Sweet potato
3. Long day plants flower when light exceeds a certain
number of hours.
1. Lettuce
2. Spinach
3. Radish
4. Day neutral plants – flowering not related to light
1. Cucumber
2. Peas
3. Beans
4. Peppers

12. 2. Soil and soil preparation
• Well-drained. Solutions
for clay soils:
– Add organic matter
– Raised beds
• Work soils down to 6-7
inches.
• Remove large stones,
clods, or plant debris.
Particularly important
with root crops.

13. 2.1Soil test
– Done the fall before planting and every 3 years
thereafter.
– Sample 6-7 inches deep in 5 areas of the garden.
• pH – 6.0-6.8
• Phosphorus
• Potassium
• Organic matter

14. 2.2. Soil Temperature
“seed of warm-season crops planted in cold soil.
Soil temp should be >60°F
HPlant corn when oak leaves are the size of squirrel’s
ears”.
Rotting eat-induced dormancy for fall crops.

15. 2.3. Access
• Near the house.
– Easy to get to when harvesting.
– Accessible for weeding, cultivating, & staking
plants.
• Close to water.
• May deter vermin.

16. 2.4 .Air Drainage
• Low-lying areas are subject to
unseasonable frosts & water-logged soils.
• South-facing slopes warm more quickly.
• Wind protection is desirable in rural
gardens.
– Prevents physical damage to plants.
– Reduces water loss.
– Preserves heat that may be lost through
transpiration.

17. 2.5. Proximity to Trees & Shrubs
• Unwanted shade.
• Competition for water and nutrients.
• Juglone toxicity.
• Site the garden at least 10 feet from any tree
or shrub.

18. 3. Variety Selection
• Size of Mature Plant
• Days to Harvest
• Heirlooms
• Disease Resistance
• Saving Seed

19. Variety Selection:
Days to Harvest
• Southern WI has 120-
180 frost-free days.
• Northern WI has 90-120
frost-free days.
• Pay particular attention
to long-season crops –
pumpkins or corn.
• Planting date for fall
crops should be counted
backward from the
average date of 1st frost.
Additional days should
be added because of
cool nights and shorter
days.

20. Variety Selection:
Heirlooms
• Old-fashioned varieties.
• Selected for their flavor.
• No disease resistance, not uniform in
appearance, and don’t store well.
• Seed Savers Exchange
– http://www.seedsavers.org/Home.asp

21. Variety Selection:
Disease Resistance
• Select resistant varieties if practical.
• No one variety is resistant to all diseases of
that vegetable.
• Seed catalogs will indicate what varieties are
resistant.

22. Variety Selection:
Saving Seed
• Some diseases are carried on or in the seed.
• Don’t save seed from cross-pollinated plants –
vine crops in particular.
• Self-pollinated crops include
• Beans
• Eggplant
• Peas
• Pepper
• Tomato

23. 4. Planting
• Timing
• Direct Seeding
• Transplants
• Starting Seeds
• Spacing & Thinning
• Sequential Planting
• Crop Rotation

24. Timing
• Soil temperature
– Cool-season crops = 40°
– Warm-season crops = 50-60°
• Avoidance of pest problems
– Onions – onion maggot
– Cole crops – cabbage maggot, flea beetles
– Seed corn maggots

25. Direct Seeding
• Plant seed as deep as
the seed is wide.
• Seed packets will tell you
how far to space the
seed.
• Keep seed moist until
plants germinate.
• Lettuce seed requires
light to germinate.

26. Transplants
• Some vegetables must
be started indoors
because they require a
long season.
• Transplants can be
started indoors several
weeks before they are
moved outside.
• Vegetables include
– Onions & leeks
– Tomatoes, peppers,
eggplant
– Cole crops

27. Starting Seeds
• Plant at the appropriate
time so plants don’t get too
leggy.
• Containers can be plastic
pots, soil blocks, peat pots,
home-made newspaper
pots, Jiffy-7.
• Plastic containers
previously used should be
sterilized in a 10% bleach
solution.

28. Starting Seeds:
Heat & Light Requirements
• Bottom heat will speed up germination.
– Electric heating mat.
– Radiator
– Remove once seeds sprout.
• Supplemental light from fluorescent lights is necessary.
– 18 hours is optimum
– Place lights 6 inches from top of plant
• Can place in sunny window but turn regularly to
prevent lopsided growth.

29. Hardening Off
• Decrease watering &
stop fertilizing 2 weeks
before transplanting.
• Lower temperature
before transplanting.
• Harden off to
acclimate to
– Wind
– Intense light
– Fluctuating
temperatures

30. Transplanting
• Transplant on cloudy
days to minimize sun
scald.
• Water well after
transplanting.
• Plant at the same
depth as in the pot.
– Exception, tomatoes

31. Spacing & Thinning
• Space seeds as
recommended on the
packet.
– Dense planting will
promote disease.
• Small-seeded crops will
need thinning:
– Carrots
– Radishes
– Beets
– Lettuce

32. Succession Planting
• Necessary to provide an
extended season of crop
availability.
• Look at days to harvest.
• Three types:
– Planting late-season
crops after early season
ones have been
harvested – peas
followed by beans.
– Multiple plantings of a
single crop.
– Planting different
cultivars with different
maturity dates – cabbage
& corn.

33. Crop Rotation
• Potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant are all
members of the solanaceous family.
• Beans and peas are legumes.
• Cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and squash are all
cucurbits.
• Radishes, rutabagas, and turnips are all cole crops
just like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels
sprouts.
• Onions, garlic, leeks, shallots, chives are alliums.
• Crop rotations of at least 4 years are recommended.

34. Why Rotate Crops?
• Insect & disease management
• Weed management
• Nutrient demands
– Increased soil nitrogen
• Benefits of the preceding crops
– Improved physical condition of the soil
– Increased microbial activity
– Increased release of CO2
– Excretion of beneficial substances

35. 1.1 Decide where to put your garden:
Vegetables need
• 6-8 hours of sun each day
• A reliable source of irrigation
• Vegetables need soil tilled about 18 inches
deep
• The garden should be easy and inviting to
get to
• Allow space for paths between planting areas
• Plan to reach the beds from both sides

36. 1.2 How big should it be?
• Should fit where the conditions are best
• Should not be so big and so much work you
get discouraged
• You can always add on !
• Should allow you to grow what you want to
grow and use!

37. 1.3 Build raised beds
• Soil in raise beds is warmer
in the winter
• Can be built to meet needs
of challenged gardeners or
challenged sites
• Remember, you should be
able to reach the middle
from both sides
• Use materials that fit your
landscape and budget

38. 1.4 . Preparing the soil
• Lay out planting beds
• Till and rake soil –
removing rocks and junk
• Add compost aim for ½
native soil ½ compost
• Add balanced fertilizer
according to directions
• Till the bed again and
rake it level
• Install irrigation

39. 1.4 SELECTING YOUR CROPS: Choose crops
that will grow for each of our seasons. We
have 3!
• Refer to AZ 1005 for planting dates
ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf
• Or urbanfarm.org/Planting_Calendar.pdf
• Fit the crops to the garden
• Plant things you like to eat!
• Rotate your crops

40. 1.5 SOURCES OF SEEDS AND PLANTS
• Local independent nurseries
• Seed catalogues and internet sites
• Friends
• Plant sales, garden clubs
• Big box retailers

41. 1.6 .Shall I buy transplants or start seeds on
my own?
• Transplants
–No guesswork– you jump start the garden
–Give you a head start on plants that require
a longer season than we have to produce:
–Limited to what you can find
–Not all things should be transplanted-so
you may do both!

42. 1.7 Plant these vegetables directly into the
garden.
• Plants that grow from tubers, crowns, or
cloves
–Potatoes, asparagus, garlic
• Plants that grow from big seeds
–Peas, beans, corn, squash, melons,
cucumbers, pumpkin
• Root crops:
–Beets, carrots, parsnips, radishes, turnips

43. 1.8 Some vegetables need a head start. Buy
transplants or start your own 8 weeks ahead
of planting time
• Spring planted, long
season crops:
–Peppers,
–Eggplants,
–Tomatoes,
–Sweet potatoes

44. 5. Maintaining your garden
• Irrigating
• Fertilizing
• Mulching
• Weeding
• Pest control
• Weather protections

45. Individual Kitchen Gardens:
• Individual kitchen gardens can be grown in the small space available in
• the backyard. The individual kitchen gardens
• 1. Would provide for direct access to a diversity of nutritionally rich
• foods,
• 2. Increases purchasing power from savings on food bills and
• income if the garden products are sold.
• A packet containing seeds of desired varieties can be provided to the
• women interested to have kitchen garden, at an affordable price.
• These seeds can be procured in bulk from a nursery or horticulture
• department at reasonable rates and distributed to the interested
• women through VO/MMS
• Here the family members directly consume the benefits.
• Guidance on maintenance of the gardens by using simple household
• techniques should be provided to the members

46. Individual Kitchen Gardens:
• Seeds of transplanted crops like tomato, brinjal and chilli can be
sown in nursery beds or pots one month in advance by drawing
lines. After sowing and covering with top soil and then dusting with
250 grams neem cake so as to save the seeds from ants. About 30
days after sowing for tomato and 40-45 days for brinjal and chilli
and big onion the seedlings are removed from nursery and
transplanted along one side of the ridges at spacing of 30-45 cm for
tomato, brinjal and chilli and 10 cm on both the sides of the ridges
for big onion. The plants should be irrigated immediately after
planting and again on 3rd day. The seedlings can be watered once in
two days in the earlier stages and then once in 4 days later.
•

47. Individual Kitchen Gardens:
• The main objective of a kitchen garden is the maximum
output and a continuous supply of vegetables for the
table throughout the year. By following certain
procedures, this objective can easily be achieved.
• Ø The perennial plants should be located on one
side of the garden, usually on the rear end of the
garden so that they may not shade other crops,
compete for nutrition with the other vegetable crops.
• Ø The adjacent to the foot path all around the
garden and the central foot path may be utilised for
growing different short duration green vegetables like
Coriander, spinach, fenugreek, Alternanthera, Mint

48. Economic benefits of gardening
• Ø Gardeners feed their families first and then sell, barter or give away
surplus garden foods. In certain contexts, however, income generation
may become the primary objective of the home garden. In any case, it is
counterproductive to impose the nutrition objective to the exclusion of
the income generation objective, since in most contexts they are linked
and compatible.
• Ø The potential economic benefits of home gardening, include the
following:
• Ø gardening gives dual benefits of food and income generation;
• Ø gardens provide fodder for household animals and supplies for other
household needs (handicrafts, fuel wood, furniture, baskets, etc.);
• Ø marketing of garden produce and animals is often the only source of
independent income for women.
•

49. Choosing the Site
Vegetables grow best in an open, level area
where the soil is loose, rich, and well drained.
If the quality of the soil is poor, mix in 2-3
inches of topsoil, peat moss, strawy manure,
compost, or leaves plus fertilizer. The more
organic matter or topsoil you add, the more
you’ll improve your soil. Avoid heavy clays,
sandy soils, and shady spots

50. Seeds or Transplants?
 Which seeds should you sow directly in the garden, and which do better if
you plant them as seedlings (either purchasing transplants or starting the
seeds indoors yourself)?
 Many garden plants do just fine when you sow the seed directly in the
garden. These plants usually mature relatively fast; so direct sowing works
well. Plants with taproots, such as carrots, generally don’t transplant well,
so it’s best to start them from seed right in the garden too.
 Other plants have long growing seasons, or must be planted outdoors in
early spring so they mature before the hot weather arrives. These do best
when set in the garden as transplants.
 Direct sow: Beans, beets, carrots, corn, lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard,
peas, radish, potato
 Plant transplants:
 Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, cabbage, peppers, tomatoes, okra,
asparagus, rhubarb You can go either way with these: Cucumbers, squash,
muskmelon, watermelon, pumpkins, gourds

51. Gardening Spacing
Plant Inches Plant Inches
Asparagus 15-18 Beans 4-6
Beets 2-4 Broccoli 12-18
Cabbage 15-18 Carrot 2-3
Cauliflower 15-18 Cucumber 12-18
Egg plant 18-24 Lettuce Head 10-12
Lettuce Leaf 4-6 Melons 18-24
Mustard 6-9 Okra 12-18
Onion 2-4 Peas 2-4
Peppers 12-15 Potato 10-12
Pumpkin 24-36 Radish 2-3
Spinach 4-6 Squash 24=36
Tomatoes 18-24 Turnip 4-6

52. Sign of Harvest and Storage
The nutritional content, freshness, and flavor that vegetables possess depend
on the stage of maturity and the time of day at which they are harvested. Over-
mature vegetables will be stringy and coarse. When possible, harvest
vegetables during the cool part of the morning and process them as soon as
possible. If for some reason processing must be delayed, cool the vegetables in ice
water or crushed ice and store them in the refrigerator to preserve flavor and quality
Here are some brief guidelines for harvesting vegetable crops:
Asparagus -- Harvest the spears when they are at least 6 to 8 inches tall by snapping
or cutting them at ground level. A few spears may be harvested the second year after
crowns are set out. A full harvest season will last 4 to 6 weeks during the third
growing season.
Beans, Snap -- Start harvesting before seeds develop in the pod. Beans are ready to
pick if they snap easily when bent in half.

53. Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd
Beans, Lima -- Harvest when the pods first start to bulge with the enlarged seeds.
Pods must still be green, not yellowish.
Broccoli -- Harvest the dark green, compact cluster or head while the buds are shut
tight, before any yellow flowers appear. Small side shoots will develop later, providing
a continuous harvest.
Brussels Sprouts -- Harvest the lower sprouts (small heads) when they are about 1 to
1 /2 inches in diameter by twisting them off. Lower leaves along the stem may be
removed to hasten maturity.
Cabbage -- Harvest when the heads feel hard and solid.
Carrots -- Harvest when the roots are 3 /4 to 1 inch in diameter. The largest roots
generally have the darkest tops.

54. Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd
Cauliflower -- Exclude sunlight (blanch) when the curds are 2 to 3
inches in diameter by loosely tying together the outer leaves above
the curd with a string or rubber band. Harvest the curds (heads) when
they are 6 to 8 inches in diameter but still compact, white, and
smooth. The head should be ready 10 to 15 days after tying.
Corn, Sweet -- Silks begin to turn brown and dry out as the ears
mature. Check a few ears for maturity by opening the top of the ear
and pressing a few kernels with a thumbnail. If the liquid exuded is
milky rather than clear, the ear is ready for harvest. Cooking a few ears
is a good way to test for maturity.

55. Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd
Cucumbers -- Harvest when the fruits are deep green, before yellow color appears. The length should
be 2 to 3 inches for sweet pickles, 5 to 6 for dills, and 6 to 8 for slicing. Pick 4 to 5 times per week to
Encourage continuous production. Mature cucumbers left on the vine will stop production of the entire
plant.
Eggplant -- Harvest when the fruits are 4 to 5 inches in diameter and their color is a glossy purplish
black. (A white variation is also available.) The fruit is getting too old when the color starts to dull or
become bronzed. Because the stem is woody, cut -- do not pull -- the fruit from the plant. A short stem
should remain on each fruit.
Kale -- Twist off the outer, older leaves when they reach a length of 8 to 10 inches and are medium
green in color. Heavy, dark green leaves are over-mature and are likely to be tough and bitter. New
leaves will grow, providing a continuous harvest.
Kohlrabi -- Harvest when the thickened stems or bulb (the edible part) is 2 to 3 inches in diameter by
Cutting off the plant just below the bulb. Stems become woody if left too long before harvest.
Lettuce -- Harvest the older, outer leaves from leaf lettuce as soon as they are 4 to 6 inch

56. Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd
Muskmelons(Cantaloupes) -- Harvest when the stem slips easily from the fruit with a gentle tug. Another
indicator of ripeness is when the netting on skin becomes rounded and the flesh between the netting turns from
a green to a tan color.
Mustard -- Harvest the leaves and leaf stems when they are 6 to 8 inches long; new leaves will provide a
continuous harvest until they become strong in flavor and tough in texture from temperature extremes.
Okra -- Harvest young, tender pods when they are 2 to 3 inches long. Pick at least every other day during the
peak-growing season. Over-mature pods become woody and are too tough to eat.
Onions -- Harvest when the tops fall over and begin to turn yellow. Dig the onions and allow them to dry out in
the open sun for a few days to toughen the skin. Then remove the dried soil by brushing and onions lightly. Cut
the stem, leaving 2 to 3 inches attached, and store in net-type bag in a cool, dry place.
Peas -- Harvest regular peas when the pods are well rounded; edible-podded varieties should be harvested when
pods are well rounded but before seeds are more than one-half of their full size if the pods are to be eaten;
harvest when seeds are fully developed but still fresh and bright green if pods are to be discarded. Pods are
getting too old when they lose their brightness and turn light or yellowish green.

57. Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd
Peppers -- Harvest sweet peppers with a sharp knife when the fruits are firm, crisp, and full size. Green peppers
will turn red if left on the plant. Allow hot peppers to attain their bright red color and full flavor while attached
to the vine; then cut them and hang them to dry.
Potatoes -- Harvest the tubers when the plants begin to dry and die down. Store the tubers in a cool, high-humidity
location with good ventilation, such as the basement or crawl space to the house. Avoid exposing the tubers to light.
Greening, which denotes the presence of dangerous alkaloids, will occur even with small amounts of light.
Pumpkins -- Harvest pumpkins and winter squash before frost and after the vines dry up, the fruit color darkens, and
the skin surface resists puncture from your thumbnail. Avoid bruising or scratching the fruit while handling it. Leave a 3-
to 4-inch portion of stem attached to the fruit and store it in a cool, dry location with good ventilation.
Radishes -- Harvest when the roots are 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. The shoulders of radish roots often appear
through the soil surface when they are mature. If left in the ground too long, they will become tough and
woody.
Spinach -- Harvest by cutting all the leaves off at the base of the plant when they are 4 to 6 inches long. New
leaves will grow, providing additional harvests.
Squash, Summer -- Harvest when the fruit is soft, tender, and 6 to 8 inches long (3 to 4 inches across for patty
pans). The skin color often changes to a dark, glossy green or yellow, depending on variety. Pick every two or
three days to encourage production.

58. Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd
Tomatoes -- Harvest the fruits at the most appealing ripeness stage
-- up to dead red ripe. (There are some yellow varieties of tomatoes.)
Flavor is best at room temperature, but ripe fruit may be held at 45
O to 50oF for 7 to 10 days.
Turnips -- Harvest the roots when they are 2 to 3 inches in diameter
but before heavy frosts occur in the fall. The tops may be used as
greens when the leaves are 3 to 5 inches long.
Watermelons -- Ripe watermelons produce a dull thud rather than a
sharp, metallic sound when thumped. Other ripeness indicators are a
deep yellow rather than white color when the melon touches the
ground, brown tendrils on the stem near the fruit, and a rough, slightly
rigid feel to the skin surface

59. WHERE SHOULD I PLANT MY GARDEN?
• Your garden should be close to home or work and easily accessible. You’ll soon grow
• tired of commuting to a distant location.
• If you have no usable soil, you can build open-bottom containers on top of almost
• anything—even driveways, patios, and roofs.
• Choose a location that receives full sunlight all day long (or at least from mid-morning
• through the afternoon).
• Avoid trees, buildings, tall fences, hedges, and bushes that would block out the sun.
• Shade retards plant growth.
• For better results and less work, choose a level area. A slight southern slope (toward
• the sun) is ideal.
• Avoid north slopes (away from the sun). They have more shadows, less direct sunlight,
• and are sometimes too cold.
• If your ground is on a hillside, plant on the contour. Always level the ground under the
• containers.
• Locate your garden near a readily available source of good water.
• Do not use low spots where drainage is poor. Plants must have oxygen and will
• suffocate in standing water.
• Avoid windy areas, or build windbreaks. Tender plant leaves are easily damaged by
• strong winds.
• Fence the area to protect against animal and human intruders. If small animals are a
• problem, use wire mesh at ground level.

61. • VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )
Vegetable Specific Problem
Amaranthus Damping off, Choanephora blight
Artichoke Artichoke Curly Dwarf, Bacterial Crown Rot,Damping off,Powdery mildew,verticillum wilt
Asparagus Fusarium rot, root rot, crown rot
Beans Bacterial Brown Spot, Bacterial Wilt, Bacterial Blight ,Fusarium, Root Knot Nematodes, Bean common Mosaic Virus
Beet root Cercospora Leaf Spot, Damping off, Bacterial bligt , Downy Mildew, Powdery mildew, Black Root Rot,Root Knot Nematodes, Sugarbeet cyst nematodes
Bitter Gourd Powdery mildew, Fusarium wilt,Downey mildew, Bitter Gourd Mosaic,
Bottle Gourd Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab
Broccoli Alternaria Leaf Spot, Powdery mildew, Downy Mildew , Phoma Leaf Spot and stem Canker.
Brussels sprout Bacterila Leaf Spot,Bacterial soft rot, Damping off, Downey mildew, Phytophthera root rot , Powdery mildew, Ringspot, Verticillium wilt
Bursunday
Cabbage Sclerotinia head rot, Bacterial Soft Rot, Black rot, Black leg, Club root, Fusarium yellow, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Downey mildew
Carrot Aster yellow disease , Carrot rust, Leaf beetle, Nematodes, Bacterial Soft Rot, Sclerotinia stem rot, Black rot,
Cauliflower Cauliflower mosaic, Powdery mildew, White rust,
Chinese Cabbage Sclerotinia head rot, Bacterial Soft Rot, Black rot, Black leg, Club root, Fusarium yellow, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Downey mildew
Coriander Damping off , Rhizoctonia , Aster Yellow,
Cucumber Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial wilt, Anthracnose, Damping off, Fruit Rot , Downey mildew, Fusarium Wilt ,Target leaf spot, Mosaic,
Chillies Anthraconose, Bacterial Leaf spot, Bacterial Soft Rot, Bacterial wilt, Cercospora Leaf Spot, Damping off, Grey mold, Phytophthera blight, Powdery mildew,
verticilium wilt, White mold , Pepper mottle virus, Tobacco etch virus, Tobacco mosaic virus
Eggplant Damping off , Mosaic , Root rot , TMV, Tomato Spotted Wilt, Verticilium Wilt

62. • VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )
Vegetable Specific Problem
Fennel Cercospora leaf blight, Powdery mildew, Rust, Downey mildew, Root Knot Nematodes,
French Beans Bacterial Brown Spot, Bacterial Wilt, Bacterial Blight ,Fusarium, Root Knot Nematodes, Bean common Mosaic Virus
Garlic Purpleblotch, Stemphylium blight, Cercospora Leaf blight, Powdery mildew , Mosaic disease
Ginger Bacterial wilt, Fusarium yellow , Rhizome rot, Root Knot Nematode, Pythium soft rot, Bacterial Soft rot
Gourd
Haldi Leaf blotch, Leaf spot, Rhizome rot
Kale Black rot, Alternaria leaf spot, Anthraconose, Damping off , Downey mildew, Root knot nematodes
Karam saag Bacterial black rot, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Club root, Downey mildew, Powdery mildew ,Sclerotinia stem rot , white rust, White Leaf
spot , Mosaic
Kohlrabi Damping off, bacterial soft rot ,
Leek Downey mildew , Purple blotch ,
Lettuce Sclerotinia , Downey mildew , Bacterial soft rot, anthracononse , Rhizctonia, Black root rot , Bacterial Leaf spot
Limba Bean Bacterial Brown Spot, Bacterial Wilt, Bacterial Blight ,Fusarium, Root Knot Nematodes, Bean common Mosaic Virus
Marrow Squash Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial wilt, Anthracnose, Damping off, Fruit Rot , Downey mildew, Fusarium Wilt ,Target leaf spot, Mosaic,
Melon Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial wilt, Anthracnose, Damping off, Fruit Rot , Downey mildew, Fusarium Wilt ,Target leaf spot, Mosaic,
Okra White mold, Charcoal wilt, Southern blight, Root knot nematodes Powdey mildew
Onion Botrytis, Leaf blight, Leaf fleck, Neckrot, Downey mildew , onion white rot , Pink root , Purpleblotch Anthraconose , Smut

63. VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )
Vegetable Specific Problem
Peas Bacterial blight,Anthraconose, Downey mildew, Powdery mildew, Leaf mold, Fusarium root rot , Mosaic ,
Potato Septoria leaf spot, Anthraconose , Fusarium wilt, Verticilium wilt , Early Blight , Late blight, Mosaic virus , Fusarium wilt ,
nematodes ,
Pumpkin Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab
Ridge Gourd Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab
Spinach White rust, Downey mildew, Anthraconose, Leafspot, Fusarium wilt,
Squash Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab
Tomato Septoria leaf spot, Anthraconose , Fusarium wilt, Verticilium wilt , Early Blight , Late blight, Mosaic virus , Fusarium wilt ,
nematodes ,
Taro ( Kachaloo) Clocasia Blight
Turnip Anthraconose, Cercospora leaf spot, White spot, Downey mildew , Bacterial leaf spot
Water Melon Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab

64. • VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )
Vegetable Specific Problem
Amaranthus Leaf miner, Leaf Aphids, Fleabeetle, Mites
Artichoke Artichoke Aphids, Armyworm,Loopers, Mollusks,
Asparagus Army worm , Asparagus beetle, Asparagus miner, Cutworm , Aphid , Thrips
Beans Bean Leaf beetle , Leaf miner , Bean Aphids , Potato Aphids ,Potato Leaf Hopper,Thrips, Corn Earworm,Melon Aphids,
Beet root Beet Webworm,Vegetable Weevil,Aphids and Jassids
Bitter Gourd Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly
Bottle Gourd Cucumber beetle, Squash vine borer
Broccoli Aphids, Cabbage looper, , Cabbage webworm, Diamond Back Moth Caterpillars, Cabbage Maggot, White Flies
Brussels sprout Beet armyworm, Cabbage Aphids, Cabbage maggot, Cutworm , Diamond back moth, Earwigs,Flea beetle , Leafminer, Loopers, Nematodes, Snails, White
flies , wireworm
Bursunday
Cabbage Cabbage looper, Cabbage Aphids, Cabbge maggot , Diamond back moth, Cabbage Head worm , Beet army worm , Stripped Fleabeetle,
Carrot Carrot rustfly, Carrot weevil, Aster Leaf Hopper ,
Cauliflower Cucumber Beetle, Cabbageworm, Diamond Back Moth , Thrips, Cabbage Aphids , Fleabeetle, Beet armyworm, Cutworm , Root knot nematodes
Chinese Cabbage Cabbage looper, Cabbage Aphids, Cabbge maggot , Diamond back moth, Cabbage Head worm , Beet army worm , Stripped Fleabeetle,
Coriander Grass hoppers, Leaf hoppers,
Cucumber Cucumber beetle, Cabbage Looper, Fleabeetle, Aphids, Cutworm , Thrips,
Chillies Slug and snail, Aphids , Fleabeetle, Pepper maggot, Spider mite, Thrips, Whitefly
Eggplant Aphids, Army worm , cabbage Loopers, Fleabeetle, Hornworm, Silverleafwhitefly, Thrips , Spider mite.

65. • VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )
Vegetable Specific Problem
Fennel Army worm, Cut worm , Aphids
French Beans Bean Leaf beetle , Leaf miner , Bean Aphids , Potato Aphids ,Potato Leaf Hopper,Thrips, Corn Earworm,Melon Aphids,
Garlic Thrips, Stem and bulb Nematode, Mites,
Ginger Cutworm , Heliothis, Black beetle, Symphilids
Gourd
Haldi Shoot borer, Leaf roller, Scale insects,
Kale Cabbage ,looper , beet armyworm , Whiteflies, Caterpillars, Fleabeetle, Aphids
Karam saag Fleabeetle, Cabbage Aphid,
Kohlrabi Cutworm, Cabbageworm , cabbage loopers root maggot , Fleabeetle, Aphids, Slugs and snails,
Leek Onion thrips
Lettuce Beet armyworm , Cabbage looper, Cutworm, Aphids, Leaf hopper , greenhouse whitefly
Limba Bean Bean Leaf beetle , Leaf miner , Bean Aphids , Potato Aphids ,Potato Leaf Hopper,Thrips, Corn Earworm,Melon Aphids,
Marrow squash Cucumber beetle, Cabbage Looper, Fleabeetle, Aphids, Cutworm , Thrips,
Melon Cucumber beetle, Cabbage Looper, Fleabeetle, Aphids, Cutworm , Thrips,
Okra Army worm , Cornearworm. Loopers, Spidermite, Aphids, Thrips, Cucumber beetle
Onion Thrips, Onion fly,

66. VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )
Vegetable Specific Problem
Peas Pea weevil, Native budworm , Aphids, Thrips, Lesser corn stalkborer , Spider mite ,
Potato Cutworm , Fleabeetle, Aphids , Leaf miner , Stalkborer , white flies , Spider mites, slugs
Pumpkin Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly
Ridge Gourd Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly
Spinach Caterpillars, Wireworm, Crown mites, Aphids, Leafminer,
Squash Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly
Tomato Cutworm , Fleabeetle, Aphids , Leaf miner , Stalkborer , white flies , Spider mites, slugs
Taro ( Kachaloo) Clocasia Blight
Turnip Cabbage maggot, Wireworm , Aphids, Cabbage looper, Diamondbackmoth
Water Melon Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly

67. WHAT SHOULD I PLANT?
Choose varieties that do well in your climate. If you live in a cooler
northern climate, do not try to grow long-season crops like peanuts or
sweet potatoes. Plan for only those vegetables that your family will
eat, and only in quantities you can use, preserve, give away, or sell
quickly, while fresh. Single-crop varieties like lettuce, broccoli, and
cauliflower mature all at once, and so must be used quickly. Don’t
grow too much of these! Ever-bearing crops like pole beans,
cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, squash, and tomatoes mature a little
at a time, feed you all season long, and have a high value for the
amount of space used, especially if grown vertically. Single-crop
varieties that are grown for storage may be important for your winter
emergency preparedness. Consider fall potatoes, cabbage, onions,
winter squash, and carrots. Cool storage (40–50 degrees Fahrenheit)
will preserve these vegetables. You can grow two crops of many
single-crop varieties if you learn to grow and transplant healthy
seedlings.

68. WHAT TOOLS DO I NEED?
A long-handled irrigation (or round-headed) shovel is important for
initial soil
preparation and to remove perennial weeds and their rhizomes. A
strong 12”- or 14”-wide garden rake is good for removing weeds and
leveling the soil, as well as for mixing and leveling the custom-made
soil in the containers. A two-way hoe, sometimes called a scuffle or
hula hoe, is best for early weeding of small weed seedlings in the
aisles. It cuts them off just below the soil surface with very little
movement of the soil. Container gardens rarely require weeding. If
you’re watering by hand, a garden hose with a gentle watering wand
will let you water quickly without washing out the custom-made soil
from your containers. Plant-spacing markers save time and give your
garden a professional look while providing equal light, water, and
nutrition to each plant. Two rows of ½” dowels, spaced 6” and 7”
apart, will help you plant most varieties properly. A wheelbarrow or
large cart is useful for larger gardens.

69. HOW SHOULD I PLAN MY TIME?
Schedule the time to create and grow your garden. Like a cow that has
to be milked
twice daily, your garden needs daily care and attention to produce a
high yield of
healthy crops. Make a garden calendar and list the projects that need
attention. That way you will not forget important things like planting
dates. Plan on these time estimates for a garden of ten container
beds that are each 10’-long: o Six to eight hours to clear the area,
construct containers, and make aisles. o Four to six hours to prepare
the custom soil, apply fertilizers, plant seeds, and transplant seedlings.
o Twenty minutes per day, preferably in the early morning, to water,
feed, prune, and otherwise care for your plants. o Two to ten minutes
per day to harvest, depending on what and how much you are
harvesting.

70. WHEN SHOULD WEED CONTROL
BEGIN?
Properly prepared containers require very little weeding. Using clean,
weed-free materials for your growing medium is essential. Do not use
soil, dirty sand, compost, or manure. There are two main types of
weeds:
1. Perennials, which grow for many years from rhizomes (underground
stems)
and runners (above-ground stems).
2. Annuals, which grow from new seeds every year.
There are two main times to control weeds:
1. While preparing your garden soil before planting: remove all weeds,
including perennial rhizomes and runners.
2. Immediately after weeds sprout, usually 7–10 days after planting
your vegetable crop: weed thoroughly now!

71. HOW CAN I PREVENT WEEDS?
Using a non-soil growing medium is one of the best ways to
prevent weeds in your garden. Other ways of preventing
weeds from getting into your containers include:
1. Irrigating with well water, the culinary water supply, or
filtered water.
2. Maintaining a wide weed-free perimeter around your
garden. Weed seeds often
3. travel through the air.
4. Staying out of the containers. Shoes can carry weeds and
diseases.
5. Removing all weeds from the aisles when they are small
and before they produce seeds.