Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Presentation by Vinay Prajapati, Atul & Navneet

1. APPAREL PRODUCTION REPORT
[A Report based on three months internship at Modelama Exports Ltd., Gurgaon, Haryana]
Under the Guidance of Report Prepared by
Mrs Vasundhara Chaudhary Atul Dwivedi
Associate Professor Navneet Kumar Yadav
National Institute of Fashion Technology Vinay Prajapati
Gandhinagar M.F.Tech, Sem-III
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Gandhinagar

3. INDEX
SR. NO. TITLE PAGE NO.
1 PREFACE i
2 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ii
3 COMPANY PROFILE 1
4 ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE 2
5 FACTORY LAYOUT 3
6 ABOUT THE COMPANY 4
7 MAJOR OVERSEAS CUSTOMERS 6
8 FLOW DIAGRAM OF WORKING IN AN EXPORT HOUSE 7
9 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT 8
10 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT 12
11 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 19
12 FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT 22
13 FABRIC STORE 25
14 FLOW FOR ORDER PROCESSING 27
15 FABRIC INSPECTION 28
16 TESTING LAB 30
17 ACCESSORIES STORE 37
18 RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT 40
19 MACHINE MAINTAINANCE DEPARTMENT 44
20 CAD DEPARTMENT 47
21 WORK FLOW OF SPREADING & CUTTING 51
22 SPREADING DEPARTMENT 52
23 CUTTING DEPARTMENT 54
24 TICKETING, FUSING, CHECKING & BUNDLING 56
25 PRODUCTION, PLANNING & CONTROL DEPARTMENT 58
26 SEWING DEPARTMENT 60
27 WASHING DEPARTMENT 62
28 FINISHING DEPARTMENT 64
29 PACKAGING DEPARTMENT 66
30 DETAILS OF STYLE STUDIED DURING INTERNSHIP 68

4. PREFACE
This report is an account of hard work done and experience gained in the company having a
reputed stand in the international market and policy of keeping itself updated with the
changing times. This hard work is original in style and method & no pains have been spared
too make it as compact, perfect and reliable as possible. The report mainly deals in the
application of theoretical knowledge into a practical experience.
This report attempts to present our experience in Modelama Exports Ltd. India’s premier
export house. It gave us an opportunity to be a part of an esteemed organization and get
the first hand knowledge of working of various departments under various heads.
It covers the basic structure of an export house and working. It also includes various formats
that are used in firms to maintain the records. Overall, this report covers the individual
study of each department that a garment undergoes.
As such, this report is not sufficient to pen down what we have gained from this in plant
training. So, it should not be compared with the experience that is learned by working in an
expert house.

5. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At the very outset, we find ourselves fully engulfed in immense pleasure in expressing our
sincere and profound gratitude to Mr. Lalit Gulati (Owner Modelama Exports Ltd.) for
providing us an opportunity to do this momentous internship in this prestigious
organization.
Secondly, we will be failing if we do not express our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. S. S. Bedi
(Manager Personal Department & Administration), Mr. Arvind Rai (G.M Personal) for their
continuous support, and encouragement and valuable guidance in doing fruitful and
challenging project, which would be an unforgettable experience to us. Our overriding debt
continuous to be for Mr. Dushyant (G.M Fabric), Mr. Ilias (Cutting Manager) and his cutting
team & CAD team, Mr. Deepak Gupta (Head IE Department) for their support and help
during the Internship period.
We would like to extend our particulars thanks to Mr. Biraj Narula (G.M Production) for his
strong and continuous support all the way through our project.
Back at our institute we would like to express our sincere thanks to Mr. Pranav Vora
(Course Coordinator M.F.Tech) and Mr. Pavan Godiawala (Chair Person, MFT) all the staff
members of Department of Garment Manufacturing Technology for allocating us this
organization and helping us out in the best possible ways during the period of internship.
A special thanks to Mrs. Vasundhara Chaudhary (Course Coordinator, DFT) for her valuable
guidance during our Internship.

6. COMPANY PROFILE
COMPANY NAME MODELAMA EXPORTS LTD
ADDRESS PLOT NO. 105/106, UDYOG VIHAR, PHASE-1
GURGAON, HARYANA- 122015
HEAD OFFICE B-57 OKHLA INDL. AREA PHASE-1
NEW DELHI- 110020 INDIA
TELEPHONE 0124-4008105
FAX 0124-4008108
E-MAIL info@modelamaexports.com
WEBSITE www.modelamaexports.com
YEAR ESTD. 1979
OWNER MR. LALIT GULATI
DIRECTORS MR. SANJAY GULATI
MR. GAGAN GULATI
MR. GAURAV GULATI
ANNUAL TURNOVER 60 MILLION (OF ALL FACTORIES)
MARKET 100% EXPORT
TOTAL COVERED AREA 4,00,000 SQ. FT.
TOTAL WORKING FORCE 5500
IN HOUSE/FABRICATION/BOTH BOTH
PRODUCTION CAPACITY 6 MILLION/YEAR
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7. ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE
MR LALIT GULATI
(Chairman)
MR SANJAY GULATI
(Managing Director)
MR GAGAN GULATI MR BIRAJ NARULA MR GAURAV GULATI MR ARVIND RAI
(Director) (GM Production GF) (Director) (GM P&A)
MS SHALU BAGGA MR SAMEER SOOD MR DINESH MR JP SARAF
(Home Furnishings) (GM production FF) (EDP) (Manager Accounts)
MS SUMAN MALHOTRA MR SUNNY KUMAR MR DUSHYANT MR RN SHARMA
(Merchandising) (Production SF) (Fabric Store) (Manager EXIM)
MR SANTOSH KUMAR MR PRAVEEN RAI
(Production U200 & U201) (Sampling)
2

8. FACTORY LAYOUT
1. BASEMENT
a. Fabric Testing Lab
b. Fabric Store
c. Accessories Store
d. General Store
e. Cutting/CAD/CAM
2. GROUND FLOOR
a. Reception
b. Conference Room
c. Personal Department
d. Human Resource
e. Production Floor
f. Finishing Department
g. Packing
h. Machine Maintenance Department
i. Washing Section
3. FIRST FLOOR
a. Production floor
b. Finishing
c. Packing
d. Quality control
4. SECOND FLOOR
a. Merchandising
b. Product development
c. R & D
d. Production plan & control
e. Sampling
f. Export documentation
g. EDP(Electronic Data Processing)
h. Accounts
i. Surplus fabric & accessory store
3

9. ABOUT THE COMPANY
With a vision to lead, Modelama emerged in the horizons of garments manufacturing industry in
the year 1979. Led by business acumen of the founder and the competence of the workforce, it
established itself as a name to reckon with not only in India but also in the overseas destinations.
Today, it is one of the leading garment manufacturers and exporters in India with state-of-the art,
professionally run, production units covering about 400,000 sq. ft. of area.
Ever since its inception, Modelama has never looked back. Growing with strength as well as value it
has achieved the production capacity of 6 million garments per year and a turnover of 60 million
USD.
The management of Modelama Export always believed that quality should be the top most priority.
The incessant efforts to provide consumer satisfaction could only be achieved through enhancing
the capabilities of manufacturing high quality products.
At Modelama, obligations involving human resource development, social & environmental issues
are a part of the day-to-day chores. We take pride in the human resource that we have. Modelama
boasts of one of the most experienced and well-trained technicians belonging to the fields like
apparel engineering, textile technology, electronic data processing, designing and so on.
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10. PRODUCT MIX
Modelama uses a wide array of fabrics to create distinct styles for its buyers. From naturals (cotton,
linen, silk, wool) to synthetics (viscose, polyester, polyamide) and their blends, various fabrics are
handled with the care they demand. Looking at the growing buyer demands and the fast pace at
which fashion moves today Modelama has developed a diverse and futuristic product mix.
AESTHETICS AND FUNCTIONALITY
With a strong design team which gets its inspiration from global sources and a global technical
team providing manufacturing and infrastructure know how, we have achieved the perfect blend of
aesthetics with functionality.
HOW THEY CREATE
Work at Modelama happens very closely with the fashion forecast the design team visit a no. of
fashion forums, seminars and exhibitions like the premier vision, heimtex etc. the designers are
stationed in the US as well as UK who constantly feed with retail information, retailing trends,
market share analysis, brand evaluation and other retail information.
Apart from the keen interest they take in making the products, they also try to induce what India as
a source can offer in terms of embroideries, hand work, light weight fabrics and the various accents
of our culture as an inspiration.
Their range has a wide array of fabric from natural - cotton, linen and wool, silk to synthetics –
viscose, polyester, polyamide, blends, microfibers and much more.
Apart from the constant feed of the fresh concepts in the product mix, there products also have a
distinct genre of style complimenting individual buyer needs. They were very closely with the
buyers design team and satisfy the certain buyer beyond expectations.
OTHER FACILITIES
In house comprehensive washing facilities for all kinds of washing, like enzyme, bleach, caustic, acid
wash, ice wash. Sand blast/faded effect and AZO free overdyeing in house.
MAIN PRODUCTS
High fashion and basic garments covering all segments:
 Ladies: Dresses, Skirts, trousers, tops, blouses, scarves, jackets etc.
 Kids: dresses, Skirts, trousers, tops, scarves, jackets, shorts and overall etc.
 Men: shirts, shorts, pants, jackets etc.
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11. SPECIALISATION
Denim wear, prints, embroideries, cut works appliqué and other intricate trims and
embellishments; basically all form of value addition, novelty washes and quick turnaround time.
TYPES OF FABRIC
All types of Indian and imported woven fabrics viz. cotton viols, cambric, poplin, twill, corduroy,
dobby’s/jacquards, canvas, denim, viscose/rayon, linen, nylon/polyester, madras plaids etc.
MAJOR OVERSEAS CUSTOMERS
USA: Aeropostle, American eagle outfitters, Anthropology, American Rug, Belk International Inc,
Benetton, Bonton, Club Monaco, CSI industries, DDP(France), Disney, Explosion, Forth & town, GAP
Men’s outerwear, GAP women denim division, GAP women out let, Gyomboree, INC men’s, Urban
outfitters, Wool rich, Old navy, Karan scoot, Material London, JMC, Mervyns.
EUROPE: J.Jill, Diesel, Calvin Klein, Top shop, Next, We.
CANADA: Eatons, Hudson Bay, Marmaxx, Sears Roebuck & Co.
AUSTRALIA: Country Road.
UK: Laura Ashley, GVS, Freeman’s, Grattan.
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12. WORK FLOW
BUYER
PRODUCT DEVELOPER
MERCHANT
SAMPLING
FABRIC
TESTING
MARKER PLANNING
SPREADING
CUTTING
BUNDLING & TICKETING
RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT
PRODUCTION
WASHING
FINISHING & PRESSING
PACKING & FINISHING
7

13. PRODUCT DEVEVELOPEMENT
This department is not buyer specific and work for all the buyers that company caters to. The major
role of department is to getting business for the company. Foundation of all other departments, it
assists in converting their ideas into reality.
First interaction of the buyers is with PD department, but in some cases PD is directly done by the
merchandising department, there is showroom for meeting as well as presentation for new
development/line adoption to buyer, Samples/mocks developed are just for style and design
purpose and measurement do not play a major role. If buyer select any of their style then further
development will be done by PD department, once order is been booked further follow up and
communicating regarding that style will be the responsibility of the concerned merchandiser.
CLASSIFICATION
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
INTERNAL DESIGNING EXTERNAL DESIGNING
OWN DESIGN LINE INSPIRATIONAL TECH PACK
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14. INTERNAL DESIGNING
Design development done in house. Product development is done on the following basis:
MOCK OR SAMPLES WILL BE PREPARED FOR SELECTION
IF SELECTED THEN MEETING SAMPLES WILL BE MADE
COSTING AND NEGOTIATIONS
SALESMAN SAMPLE
GRADING
ORDER CONFIRMATION
PASSED BY MERCHANDISER THEN FOR PD
9

15. EXTERNAL DESIGNING
LINE ADOPTION WITH BASIC DETAILS
SAMPLES WILL BE MADE (2 Pcs)
APPROVAL/COMMENTS
BUYER SENTS A TECH PACK
THEN AGAIN PROTO SAMPLE MADE (3 Pcs)
FIT SAMPLES MADE (3 Pcs)
APPROVAL/COMMENTS
BUYER WILL SENT FIT SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS
SIZE SET ARE MADE
APPROVAL
REVISE FIT OR SEALER SAMPLE IS MADE
ORDER CONFIRMATION
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16. IMPORTANT TERMINOLOGY
 PCD (Plan cut date)  YELLOW TAG SAMPLE (means sealer
 GPT (Garment package test) sample)
 FPT (Fabric package test)  WINDOW DATE
 CUT OFF DATE  PPM (Pre-production meeting)
 GREEN TAG SAMPLE (means  Minutes of meeting (for any important
production sample) discussion related to any particular
issue)
TYPES OF SAMPLES
 Proto sample  Reference sample
 Costing meeting sample  Resample TOP sample
 Catalogue sample  Pilot run sample
 Salesman sample  Size set sample
 Fit sample  Testing sample
 AD sample/photo shoot sample  Named above are the different types
 Sealer sample of samples used by different buyers.
 Preproduction sample
A TECH PACK CONTAINS
 A pictorial representation of the  Garment description
garment  Style number
 Make up details  Date sent
 Sample size  Date required
 Fabric type  Supplier name
 Colour of fabric  Season or phase
 Placements of buttons, zippers,  Fabric sample
embroideries etc.
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17. MERCHANDISING
Merchandising or merchandise means commodities or goods dealt in by merchant. A merchant is
the person who acts as a link between a buyer and vendor; he is the one who is central or integral
part of a garment industry.
Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a vendor’s
company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full manufacturing process of
garment right from getting the order, approving the design, ordering fabric, cutting, production and
up to the shipment of the order i.e., he is the whole sole of the company. Thus a merchant is a
fulcrum of the organization which involves coordinating and follows up against tight schedules. He
has to take care of quality, delivery on time and simultaneously the price of garment and due to
which the merchant is liable for some percentage in the company profile.
MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES
 Receive detailed information from buyer like style details, fabric type, quality and fibre
content, trim requirements and quality, colour details and various other details like washing,
printing, embroideries etc.
 Make proto types, coordinate with research & development team, find fabric costing and
initial costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at sampling stage
etc.
 Receive the PO and accepted L/C, amendments if any, confirm price, category, delivery
schedule and the required lead time etc.
 Get the approval for samples and trims, prepare the time and action calendar, prepare the
fabric and trim indent.
 Coordinate with R & D and I E for further detailed R & D reports; coordinate with PPC for
production planning, send order status to the buying office at every stage.
 Call for the production meeting, prepare the production file and take care of budget at each
stage.
Another important task for merchandiser is lot approval so therefore from every roll and lot swatch
is taken firstly, it is observed in-house and then dispatched to buying house for approvals and after
approvals cutting go head will be given to the factory.
Denim approvals are taken in blanket pattern and approved samples will be used in packaging
Merchandiser has to do the entire above task for each style but before starting, merchant has to do
costing and plan the whole process from fabric ordering till ship cancel date and it is called as Time
and action calendar (T&A Calendar).
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18. Before starting the costing for a style merchandiser should consider the following:
 Fabric consumption  Margin
 Labour Expenses (Calculated with the  Exchange Rate
help of SMV)  Finishing
 Thread Consumption  Packaging
 Trims and Accessories cost  CMP (Cut Make Pack)
Merchandiser prepares two T & A Calendar, one external for buyer and supplier which is compactly
prepared to get approvals from buyer and to receive ordered fabric and trims/accessories to get
on-time deliveries, from suppliers in house and other T & A is for Internal working for prompt
working for style.
Simultaneously merchandiser works with shipping department for banking vessel and other
mediums for transporting shipment till vessel and export documentation for preparing necessary
document for custom clearance and payments and also for importing fabrics and accessory. At
same time Account Department assist for payments.
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19. PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
TECH PACK COMES FROM THE BUYER
INITIAL SAMPLING AND COSTING
GET ORDER FROM THE BUYER
ORDER CONFIRMATION
BUDGETING
INTERNAL WITH BUYER
MATERIALINDENT
RE SAMPLE/PROTO
(TRIMS DETAILS)
TYPE APPROVAL
FABRIC PROGRAM FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL
(FABRIC DETAILS)
FPT APPROVAL PP SAMPLE GPT SAMPLE
LOT APPROVAL
TOP SAMPLE APPROVAL
SIZE SET SAMPLE APPROVAL
Contents
SHIPMENT INSPECTION
No table of contents entries
found. FINAL SHIPPING
AND
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20. MERCHANDISING FILE OF A STYLE INCLUDES
1. Order confirmation 13. Size set samples
2. Purchase order 14. Sealer/comments
3. 1st lab dip/comment 15. PP samples
4. 2nd lab dip/comment 16. Initial bulk against approved lab dip
5. Approved colour standard 17. Lot comment and approved
6. Important communications 18. Trim
7. Final GSS and BOM received 19. Approved trim card
8. 1st approval/comments 20. Costing
9. Revised GSS 21. Budget
10. 2nd approval/comments 22. Test report (Trim, FPT, GPT)
11. Revised GSS 23. Fusing
12. Approved fit and comment
PRIMARY RESPONSIBILITIES OF MERCHANDISER
 Chase for fabric/trims prior to PCD date
 Size sets/PP/TOP samples-Monitoring and delivering
 Coordinating buying agency QA Inspection
OC GENERATION
OC stands for ORDER CONFIRMATION, is an internal document and should be generated by
concerned merchandiser against PO within 24-48 hrs of order confirmation from buyer. It is
information as well as an alarm to all departments that company has received an order.
OC includes the following information:
 Purchase Order (PO) Number  Delivery Date
 Quantity  Fabric with tentative consumption
 FOB
PURCHASE ORDER
PO is an external document which is issued by buyer in the name of Modelama Exports; it is an
evidence as well as support of order confirmed in the favour of company.
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21. PO includes the following information-
 Delivery Date  Terms of sale
 FOB  Currency
 Ship cancel date  L/C
 Destination  Quantity
 Ship mode  Size Break up/colour Break up
FABRIC PROGRAM (FP)
It is an internal document issued to fabric department, for sourcing the required fabric required for
the style.
MATERIAL INDENT
It is an internal document issued to Accessory Department, for sourcing the required accessory and
trims for style.
INTERNAL BUDGET
It is the internal document of the company which is a deviation between the actual costing given to
the buyer and company’s costing.
MODELAMA uses EDI software for downloading:
 PO’s,
 DCPO’s and
 CD’s (for price tickets and shipment tickets)
Buyer directly sends PO on this software and it is further followed by the merchandisers
accordingly. Until company receives any written mail from buyer no action will be taken by
merchandisers.
PCD DATE MONITERING
PCD date should be followed by head right from the order confirmation, production manager can
refuse to take the file from concerned merchandiser if the PCD date slides drastically and unit
manager approach to management if concerned merchant tries to put pressure on unit, but if a
particular style has been taken over by unit head then the deliverance of style in terms of quality/
deliver date has to meet by unit head.
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22. PAYMENT TO VENDERS
It is a policy of the company that all the venders such as fabric/trim suppliers, embroidery job
workers, handwork contractors, finishing job workers would be done after shipping of a particular
order and the payment would be done only of the actual shipment quality.
COSTING
The most important function of the merchandising department is to calculate the total cost of
garment. It is the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and also negotiate
the cost of production with the buyer before he sends his PO. The costing should be such that it
suits the buyer and also the export house. At the pre-production stage initial costing is done so as
to get an idea of the cost likely to be incurred. This cost includes raw material cost; manufacturing
cost, washing cost, make up cost, overhead expenses and the margin of the company. After the
buyer has placed his order and production sample is approved then the final costing is done. The
final costing uses fabric average from CAD, cost of fabric & trims etc.
A cost sheet includes:
 Buyer’s name  Quantity
 Style  Budget
 Garment  Fabric description
Total cost fabric includes:
 Greige fabric cost  Finishing
 Brushing  Shrinkage
 Calendaring  Freight
 Cartage  Wastage
 Dyeing/printing  Average consumption
 Embroidery  Total fabric consumption
 Washing
Accessories cost includes:
 Main label  Poly bags
 Wash care label  Stitching threads
 Price ticket  Embroidery threads
 Tags  Beads, sequins, elastic, mobilon tape
 Cartons etc.
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23. Total cost of a garment:
 Fabric cost  Fabrication
 Accessories cost  Finishing
 CM (cost of manufacturing)  Packaging
 Dyeing  Beads, sequins
 Embroidery
Cost of company:
 Margin
 Overheads
 Quota
 Shipping cost
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24. SAMPLING
A sample is a proto type of a product to be manufactured in future course of production. It is also
called mock-up of a product and is made to check the design effectiveness and fit of the garment.
Sampling is a set of procedure follow to produce various sample style. It contains activities like
making of pattern for proto type according to measurement of produce sample with the help of
machinery and getting buyers approval for the sample produce.
In an export house, the sampling department laced a vital role in the up-lifting of a unit. This
department directly coordinates with the merchandising dept. and production dept. sampling is
done to see how the product will look like when produce in bulk and to check discrepancies in the
pattern are. Patterns are made according to the buyer specification.
STEPS OF SAMPLING:
PROTO TYPE SAMPLE MADE
FIT SAMPLE MADE
PP SAMPLE MADE
TOP SAMPLE MADE
SIZE SET MADE
SHIPPMENT SAMPLE MADE
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25. MACHINE DETAILS IN SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
LINE
S.NO M/C TYPE MANUFACTURER 1 2 3 4 5 TOTAL
1 S.N.L.S TYPICAL 9 15 14 15 3 56
2 S.N.L.S KING SPL 6 2 3 0 2 13
3 S.N.L.S BROTHER 11 3 0 0 0 14
4 S.N.L.S KATT SPL 0 0 0 0 3 3
5 D.N.L.S HIGHLEAD 0 1 0 0 1 2
6 D.N.L.S PEGASUS 0 0 0 0 1 1
7 O/L 3 TOYOTA 0 0 0 0 1 1
8 O/L 3 TYPICAL 0 0 1 3 0 4
9 O/L 5 BROTHER 0 1 0 0 0 1
10 O/L 5 TYPICAL 0 0 0 1 0 1
11 KANSAI 0 0 0 0 3 3
12 3 NEEDLE C.S 0 0 0 1 0 1
13 BARTACK BROTHER 0 0 0 0 1 1
14 F.O.A 0 0 0 0 1 1
15 EMBROIDERY FRIEND 0 0 7 0 0 7
16 SPL M/C GOLDEN WHEEL 0 0 1 0 0 1
17 SPL M/C TREASURE 0 0 1 0 0 1
18 MAINTAINENCE 0 3 0 1 0 4
TOTAL 26 25 27 21 16 115
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26. FUNCTIONS
Two main functions of sampling department are:
1. To cater the buyer
2. New development
1. TO CATER THE BUYER
In this method first a Tack-Pack or a GSS (Garment specification sheet) is given by the buyer and
then on the basis of this GSS patterns are made by the pattern master. With the help of these
patterns fabric average is calculated and then by adding other cost also costing is send to the buyer.
On the basis of this costing buyer places an order. Once the order is placed the sampling
department starts producing samples. These samples are then sending to the buyer through
merchandiser for his approval as per the sequence shown in the above flow chart.
2. NEW DEVELOPMENT
In this method a new design is developed by the designer of the company. Before developing a new
design forecasting is done. By this forecasting we come to know that which colour, embroidery,
type of fabric, silhouette, texture etc. will be like by the fabric in upcoming season. This design is
also according to the country and season. This new design is then send to the buyer and if buyer
likes the design, he may place an order of the same design or with some modification in the new
design. Once the order is placed by the buyer, the sampling department starts producing samples.
These samples are sending to the buyer in a particular sequence as shown in the above flow chart.
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27. FABRIC SOURCING
Sourcing deals with getting information about material from different sources and then selecting
the best material which suits over budget and buyer’s specification.
Fabric sourcing means souring the right kind of fabric which fulfils the buyer’s specifications. Fabric
sourcing department is quite important as more than 90% of garment is fabric and approximately
70% cost of garment is due to the fabric.
Selecting the right quality of fabric as per the buyer’s specification otherwise it may lead to
cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The fabric sourcing department
gets the fabric sample from the vendors. These samples are tested before sending to buyer for
approval. After the buyer approves the sample, the fabric is ordered for bulk production.
TYPES OF FABRIC
1. KNITTED FABRIC 2. WOVEN FABRIC
These two kinds of fabric can be further classified as:
 Yarn dyed fabric
 Solid dyed fabric
 Printed fabric
YARN DYED FABRIC
To impart colour in a fabric, it is either died after weaving or first dyeing of the yarn is done and
then interlacement of these yarn results in a coloured fabric.
The fabric in which we dyed the yarn first and then weave the fabric is called yarn dyed fabric. The
yarn dyed fabric are generally in the form of checks, stripes etc.
SOLID DYED FABRIC
Solid dyed fabrics are the fabrics which are first manufactured on the loom and thereafter dyed but
the colouring agent can’t be applied directly to the griege fabric. To apply colour griege fabric is first
processed through different processes like de-sizing, bleaching etc. these processes are done so as
to make the fabric appropriate for dyeing.
PRINTED FABRIC
Printed fabric are the fabrics which obtained by printing a bleached fabric/dyed fabric or these
fabrics are the fabrics having different or varied print in which a base fabric either dyed fabric or
bleached fabric is printed by various printing technology.
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28. Steps followed for fabric purchasing:
 Market trends enquiry
 Vendors-folders in-house swatches
 Display to buyers
 After approval from the buyer swatch is send for the sampling yardage (5-10 meter of
fabric)
Documents used in sourcing department:
FP (Fabric Program)
a. Fabric description
b. Accessories
c. Plan Cut Date
d. Delivery Date
PROCESS OF GENERATING FABRIC PROGRAM
ORDER CONFIRMATION
TENTATIVE AVERAGE
ORDER ACCORDING TO THE TENTATIVE ORDER PIECES
FIRST WORKING
FINAL AVERAGE
FABRIC PROGRAM
FPO (Fabric Purchase Order)
a. Fabric description f. Rate
b. Supplier name g. Transportations (Logistic)
c. Date of PO h. Fabric Purchase Order number
d. Delivery date i. Payment
e. Cancel date
FPO also tells about the type/quality of fabric whether it is yarn dyed, dyed, printed, or greige
fabric.
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29. JPO (Job Process Order)
a. Processor’s name
b. Date of PO
c. Delivery Date
d. Fabric description
e. Logistic
f. Rate
g. JPO no.
JPO also gives information about the process to be done on the fabric like embroidery, dyeing,
printing etc.
SUPPLIERS OF MODELAMA EXPORT HOUSE
1. Yarn dyed- South India, Arvind, Imported
2. Knits- Ludhiana, Delhi
3. Cotton- All around India
4. Wool- Imported, Amritsar, Ludhiana, Panipat
5. Silk/Poly/Viscose- Banaras, Bangalore, Surat, Ahmedabad, Mumbai
6. Linen- Indian Rayon, Imported
7. Velvets/Jacquard- Panipat
8. Greige- Coimbatore, Salem, Erode, Bhiwandi (Mumbai)
9. Leno/Dobby/Textured- Bhiwandi, South India
10. Processing- Bhilwara, Panipat, Faridabad, Jaipur, Ahmedabad, Mumbai
11. Embroidery- Manesar, Mumbai, Amritsar
24

30. FABRIC STORE
Fabric storehouse is the actual area where the fabric for production is receive or dispatched for
processing. Beside storage the fabric store department is also responsible for the inspection of the
goods receive by it.
PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE
FABRIC DISPATCHED FROM SUPPLIER
FABRIC RECEIVING
GRIEGE FABRIC SOLID/YARN
DYED/PRINTED
SEND IT FOR PROCESSING
BACK TO INHOUSE AFTER DYEING OR PRINTING
100 % CHECKING (4 POINT SYSTEM)
METER CHECKING BY SECURITY GUARDS
LOT MAKING AND SEND IT TO THE MERCHANDISING
QUALITY CHECKING FOR DEFECTS
KEPT IN STORE
25

31. STORAGE
Rack system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in the racks in two areas:
1. Checked fabric
2. Unchecked fabric
They are further segregated on the basis of style no. and lot wise. The fabric is put in rack with the
help of Fork Lift and pallets. Such a systematic maintenance of the store makes it easy to make the
fabric whenever needed in future.
ORDER PROCESSING AND FABRIC IN-HOUSE:
The merchant receives the purchase order from the buyer. On the basis of this purchase order, the
fabric sourcer prepares a ‘requisition’ for the fabric as per the demands of the buyers and raises it
to the fabric vendors in the market. The best deal and the vendor are finalized and the order is
placed. The factory may send the yarn from the store to the fabricators for fabric production, buy
greige for dyeing or directly order the processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics
development receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor sends it in form of lots within the
specified time period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About 5% extra goods are
supplied by the vendor.
The fabric via transport trucks comes in various packages like rolls, book fold, open width etc. The
packages are unloaded on conveyor belts (500 kg capacity) with take them to the weighing
machine. Each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity, colour, GSM, and
weight. The goods are weighed and other details are reconfirmed before they are store.
26

32. FLOW FOR ORDER PROCESSING
RECEIVE PO FROM MERCHANDISER RECEIVE SHADE APPROVAL
PREPARE A FABRIC REQUISITION SEND GOODS FOR DYEING
RAISE THE REQUISITION TO VENDORS RECEIVE DYED GOODS
SOURCE OUT THE GOODS SEND YARDAGE FOR INTERNAL TESTING
SUBMIT FOR BUYER’S APPROVAL FOR
FINALIZE THE VENDORS
COLOR AND QUALITY
NO
PLACE THE ORDER SEND FOR
REDYEING,
APPROVED
WASHING
ETC
YES
FIRST LOT IN - HOUSE
BULK FABRIC IN - HOUSE
LAB TESTING
SUBMIT FOR APPROVAL TO MERCHANT READY FOR ISSUE
NO
YES
RE-ORDER APPROVED
LAB DIPS PREPARED AT DYEING UNIT IN
NEAREST SHADE
SEND LAB DIPS FOR SHADE APPROVALBY
THE BUYER
27

33. FABRIC INSPECTION
The fabric being the main contributor to the development of our final product i.e. the garment, it is
very important to control its quality indicated by the no. of faults and variations present in it.
Identification of these objectionable variations and faults right at the initial stage helps to reduce
the production time. So once the fabric is in – housed it is immediately sent on a pilot and trolley
assembly to the inspection area.
INSPECTION
GREIGE FABRIC INSPECTION PROCESSED FABRIC INSPECTION
FABRIC STORE QUALITY NORMS
SLUB 0-3” = 1 PTS
3-6” = 2 PTS
6-9” = 4 PTS
CUT/HOLES 0-1” = 1 PTS
1-1.5”= 2 PTS
1.5”> = 4 PTS
WARP WISE PATTA MINOR = 2 PTS
MAJOR = 4 PTS
WEFT WISE PATTA MINOR = 2 PTS
MAJOR = 4 PTS
LENGTH WISE VARIATION 0-2” > PALLA = 2 PTS
3” > PALLA = 4 PTS
CENTRE SELVEDGE MINOR > = A/B
(If different colour visible in 1 sq m) MAJOR < = D
PILLING if pilling is on one side of plain weave, reverse side
can be treated as face, not in the case of dobby,
jacquard, twill etc.
STREAK MARKS From selvedge to 2” then we have to plan the
marker accordingly, otherwise it will be in ‘D’
category
Other defects considered in the fabric store:
 Oil stains  Patchy
 Weaving defects  Bowing
 Dead cotton  Skewness
28

34. Every defect encountered is marked with an arrow sticker. A fabric checking report is filled which
gives the details about the defects found. After the checking is done the fabric is repacked in large
poly bags and graded according to the standards set by the company. The grades are as follows-
‘A’ CLASS No defects, fabric can be used.
‘B’/ MENDED CLASS Defects are present but under acceptance level, can be mended
to first class by subsequent processing, fabric to be cut with care.
‘C’ CLASS Fabric to be negotiated with supplier.
‘D’ CLASS Rejected, defects are present beyond acceptance level, fabric to
be not used.
NOTE:
1. Lots will be prepared.
2. Checking as per the norms of buyer.
3. In case there is ‘C’ and ‘D’ category in passed lot, will rechecked again and rechecking report
need to be made.
4. Lab report along with fabric checking report will be given to fabric merchant as well as
merchandiser.
5. No fabric issue to cutting without QA sign.
6. Knit fabric check in Kilograms.
7. Formula used = 3600 * Defects points
Length * Width
MACHINES IN FABRIC DEPARTMENT
1. FABRIC CHECKING MACHINE: This machine is used for any type of fabric rolled, checking
defects and check fabric length and width. Mostly used for grey fabric.
2. FOLDING MACHINE: This machine is used for folding the fabric in one meter.
DOCUMENTATION
Fabric store has huge documentation work as well. Bar coding has lent a helping hand and eased
the task of record keeping. Nevertheless, following records are also manually maintained:
1. Stock register for information about the stock present in the store at a given rate.
2. Receiving register for information like fabric receive from where, when and in how much
quantity.
3. Issuing register for information regarding the fabric issued to the dyeing mills.
4. Checking register for information about the rolls inspected, GSM, tube width, faults and no.
of rolls approved and passed.
29

35. 5. GSM recorded register for GSM of all the fabric rolls is stored in the house along with the
swatches.
6. Fabrics checking report, which states the type and no. of defects and weather the roll is
rejected or pass.
7. Pending checking status report maintained on daily basis for information regarding the rolls
that are pending for checking.
TESTING LAB
Garments are made from fabric with the help of sewing threads and a no. of accessories like
button; laces, ribbons etc. are sewn on them. All these things used to construct a garment have
uncertain characteristics i.e. how they will behave in conditions like washing, sunlight, heat etc.
when used by the customer. Any undesirable changes in the fabric, thread or the trims would
detract the aesthetic value of the garment and decrease its utility before time. Thus it became
necessary to check or test the characteristics of all these components under conditions to which
they are susceptible to change or get damaged. Fabric and trims are tested for their quality,
durability, colour fastness, dimensional stability and physical know how. Goods are produced from
the suppliers only when the lab tests results confirm that they comply with the standards or
requirements of the buyers.
The buyers are also specific about the test method that has to be followed. AATCCC and ASTM are
two American standards that are used in the lab. AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists
and Colourists) standards are given primarily for all colour fastness and dimensional stability. ASTM
(American Standard for Testing Materials) covers all the physical tests.
ISO (International Standard Organization) is a European standard, which covers the colour fastness
tests and the dimensional stability tests.
Modelama has its own in-house fabric testing laboratory equipped with all sophisticated
instruments as per AATCC and ISO standards where tests on fabric, garment and trims are
conducted. There are separate dry, wet and chemical testing areas in the lab along with a dark
room for colour matching.
BASIC WORK FLOW
Testing lab receives the fabric to be tested along with a test request form either from the fabric
sourcing department or the fabric store (or garment from quality assurance/merchandising
departments). This form contains all the details like buyer name, style, sample description and
vendor. A swatch of the fabric to be tested is passed on the form and tests to be conducted are
specified. Depending on the no. and type of tests to be carried, fabric yardages are sent to the lab
(almost ½ mtr to 2 mtr)
Testing is done on the behest of buyer and it is the buyer who specifies the test to be conducted.
Fabric sourcing department coordinates the communication and testing activities. Each buyer has
30

36. its standard acceptance levels in testing. He may require testing to be done at a specified testing
laboratory or one nominated by the buyer itself.
Once the fabric is received for testing, it is allowed to relaxed, condition and acclimatizes to the
standard temperature and humidity maintained in the laboratory for at least 2-4 hrs. a variety of
test are conducted on the condition samples but some of the tests like that of washing, crocking,
rubbing, dimensional stability, count, fabric construction, GSM, content etc. are necessarily carried
out for every fabric/garment. Following is a list of test carried out in the lab:
COLOR FASTNESS TO Washing(30, 40, 49 Degree)
Crocking/Rubbing
No chlorine/Chlorine Bleach
Actual Laundering
PHYSICAL TEST TO Count
Construction
Fabric Weight
Twist Per Inch
Spirality
Tensile Strength
Tearing Strength
General Garment Appearance Pilling Test
Dimensional Stability After Washing
CHEMICAL TESTS TO Fibre Content
pH of Water Extract/surface pH
CONCEPT OF GREY SCALE
Colour fastness and pilling tests require grading of the results to draw objective inference of the
behaviour of the fabric or garment. Grading means comparing the tested and the standard fabric.
This is done with the help of grey scale.
Grey scale standard are of two types:
1. One that is used for testing the variation in colour.
2. The other is that used for the purpose of measuring the variation in the stain before and
after wash or dry cleaning.
31

37. AREA EQUIPMENT PURPOSE
PICK GLASS/COUNTING GLASS Constructional parameters like
CPI,WPI
GSM CUTTER To cut a standard size sample fabric
for GSM
ELECTRIC BALANCE To weighing and determining count,
GSM etc.
DRY AREA
PILLING TESTER Predict pilling behaviour
CROCK METER (Manual & Colour fastness to rubbing
Computerized)
TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER Measure tensile strength of the knit
fabric
TEARING STRENGTH TESTER Measure tearing strength of the knit
fabric
DATA COLOR SPECTRA Colour matching and recipe
FLASH(Spectrophotometer) formulation
FRONT LOADING WASHING MACHINE General wash
AREA
LAUNDROMETER Colour fastness to washing and dry
WET
cleaning
HOT AIR OVEN Drying
pH METER Measure pH of chemical solutions
AL AREA
CHEMIC
prepared
WORKING INSTRUCTION FOR DIFFERENT TEST
1. SHRINKAGE
If an extreme shrinkage rate occurs then a test on every roll will be performed. The result
collated separated in to shrinkage group of a +/- 1.5% range. Separate patterns will be made
for each group. The QA Manager will communicate such information to CAD/CAM, cutting
and sewing sections. A fabric shrinkage test report is maintained for this purpose.
Formula: A 50 cm. mark is made in the warp and weft direction. The sample is washed in
water at normal temperature for 45 minutes and an hour and then taken out and dried. The
marks made are measured again to find out the shrinkage.
2. GSM CUTTER AND WEIGHT BALANCE
GSM – Gram per square meter
32

38. The GSM is finding out by using a digital weighing machine on which the fabric sample cut
by the GSM cutter is kept and the value displayed. The GSM is calculated using the following
conversion:
GSM = VALUE * 100
3. BEASLEY BALANCE
The instrument is used to calculate the DIRECT COUNT (count, the no. that determines the
fineness and coarseness of the yarn).
Working principle: is based upon “FIXED WEIGHT SYSTEM”. In which there is a rider having
fixed weight of 0.04 grams.
Work instruction:
 Take the fabric sample of length 10 cm. in both the direction i.e., warp as well as
weft.
 Take out the threads with the help of the needle.
 Weigh the no. of threads and when get balanced, this gives the direct count.
4. PICK GLASS
The EPI and PPI constitute the fabric construction. It is find out manually by using a pick
glass or by cutting a “1 * 1” sample and counting its yarn n the warp and weft direction.
Construction = Warp * Weft
5. TEARING STRENGTH TESTER
This instrument shows the resistance of fabric against wearing and tearing.
Work instruction:
 Take the fabric sample having dimensions according to the template in both warp
and weft directions.
 Place the fabric sample in between the two jaws of the tearing strength tester. One
jaw is fixed and other is movable.
 The sample below the bottom jaw is cut with the help of blade.
 The machine is unlocked.
33

39.  Note the reading when the fabric tears.
 The reading comes in kg. convert it into oz/yd square
Tearing Strength: E LBS * P
LBS
Where E lbs: Reading * 0.0705 1 oz = 28.3495231 grams
P lbs: Reading * 0.0705 1 yd2 = 0.8361274 m2
6. TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER
This instrument is used to give the resistance against the normal loading.
Principle used: CRE (Constant Rate of E elongation)
Work instructions:
 Take the fabric sample having dimensions 12 cm. * 1.5” in both warp and weft
directions.
 Placed the fabric sample in between the two jaws of the tensile tester. One is fixed,
while the other is movable.
 Unrevealed the fabric along the length up to 0.25” along the width of the fabric.
 Set the pointer to zero and start the machine.
 Note the reading when the breaks.
 The reading comes in kg is converted into lb.
Note – 1 lbs = 0.4535 kg.
Tensile Strength: E lbs * P lbs
Where E lbs: Warp * 2.2 LBS P lbs: WEFT * 2.2 LBS
7. CROCKING FASTNESS
This test is done to find out the resistance of colour against rubbing.
Work instruction:
 Take the fabric sample having dimensions 20 cm*5 cm.
 Place the sample on the plate of the machine and fix it with help of lots and screws.
34

40.  Take the white bleached test cloth as per the standards specification.
 Put this test cloth on the bulb of the machine for testing.
 Give 10 rounds in to and fro motion with the help of rotator.
 Take out the test cloth and grading is done with the help of gray scale.
 Similarly, the wet rubbing fastness can be calculated by wetting of the test cloth.
Table crocking fastness
5.0 = Excellent (No colour)
4.0 = Good (Light)
3.0 = Moderate (Medium)
2.0 = Poor (Dark)
1.0 = Very poor (Full colour)
8. DIGITAL PILLING TESTER
Used for predict the pilling behaviour of the fabric or garment after its use.
Work instruction:
 Clean the boxes thoroughly.
 Place four mounted test specimens in each box and close the boxes.
 Set the machine for 18000 revolutions till.
 Start the machine & let it run, it automatically stops.
 Take out the specimens and compare them with the photographic rating standards.
9. LAUNDEROMETER
This machine is used to check the fastness of fabric against washing.
Work instruction:
 Take the fabric sample having dimensions 10 cm*4 cm
 Then, cut white cotton samples having dimensions 5 cm*4 cm and stitch it on both
sides of the test sample.
 Then, put the test sample into the containers of the launder meter.
 Run the sample with required amount of detergent and M:L ratio according to the
test method required by buyer.
 Take out the fabric from the launder meter after the required time and then grading
is done according to the grey scale.
35

41. 10. HOT AIR OVEN
Work instruction:
 Set the temperature at the desired ageing temperature and switch on the electric
supply.
 Open the door of the oven and place the test specimen on shelf.
 Allow the temperature of the oven to the desired test temperature.
 When the desired temperature is reached note, the time.
 Allow the test to continue uninterrupted for the specified duration of time.
 At the end of this period, switch off the power supply and take out the sample.
 Conduct the required test and find the result.
11. pH METER
Work instruction:
 Connect the instrument to electric supply.
 Put the selector switch to STAND BY. The instrument should read 000.
 Instrument is now ready to use.
 Connect to connection pH electrode to the input socket.
 Set the selector switch to the pH position. Wash the electrode with distilled water
and dip the combined electrode in the solution under test.
 Set the temperature. The display shows the value of the solution directly in the pH
unit.
12. SHADE MATCHING
Head ends, approx. 6 inches long will be cut from every inspected roll and will be used to
determine shade variation at the beginning middle and of roll side to side shade variation
checks and also carried out at this stage by comparing the two sides of fabric roll closer to
the selvedge. A colour box is used for an accurate detection of shade variation. Depending
on the buyers requirements either primary lights (day light, horizon Inca) or secondary lights
(cool white/CWF, ultra violet) is available for use. If the inspection reveals a significant
shade variation within the roll, such rolls either will be rejected or special markers are made
to avoid/minimize shading in garment as the case may be and the information recorded in
the inspection report.
There is some other testing which plays very crucial role in apparel export industry:
 Salvia Test in kids garment
 Button pull test
 Perspiration test
36

42. ACCESSORIES STORE
Accessories store as the name suggests is a department, which acts as a storehouse for accessories.
It is the place where all the accessories required in an export house, are stored. Right from sewing
threads, needles to packaging material like poly bags and taps etc. all are stored in the accessories
store.
The merchandiser as per buyer specifications orders the purchase dept. to buy the accessories that
are used in a particular style of that buyer. Merchandiser prepares a swatch card containing all the
accessories and their quantity required in a cycle. These accessories used in the swatch card are as
per the quality and colour mentioned and approve by the buyer. The purchase dept. with the help
of swatch card prepared by the merchandiser purchases the required quantity of accessories. The
accessories are purchased 10-15% extra then the required, as the wastage in case of accessories is
more. The receiving dept. then receives these accessories from the vendors and then checking and
testing of these accessories are done. They are checked for quality and colour. The accessories like
buttons are tested with the help of button snap tester. After all the accessories are checked and
tested as per buyer’s specifications then an accessories approval card is prepared.
After the accessories are received they are stored in the accessory store. The accessories are stored
in different racks. The accessories of a single buyer are stored in one rack but the different
accessories are stored separately from each other in the same rack. The accessories store also
houses the stationary required in the export house.
Now, whenever the production starts the accessories required in production are issued to the
production dept. through an internal channel. A stock register is used for maintaining records. Thus
an accessory store function as a store house for accessories where all the accessories are
assembled and kept and also issued to the sampling and production dept. for the garment
manufacture.
37

43. WORK FLOW OF ACCESSORIES STORE
A
• Merchandiser prepares swatch card
B
• Swatch card is send to the purchase department
C
• Accessories purchased by purchase department
D
• Accessories received by receiving department
E
• Testing of accessories is done
F
• Storing of accessories in accessory store
G
• Issuing accessories to the sampling and production
ACCESSORIES/TERMS ORDERING AND THEIR APPROVAL
 Thread ordering and approval:
For ordering threads, merchandiser has to match the colour standard or approved lab dip or
initial bulk fabric with the shade card of the suppliers company. If not matched then lab dip
for thread will be done.
Thread approval is taken through thread runs. Thread run means running of different thread
options matching with the colour standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric used for
production.
 Button ordering and approval:
For ordering button, its line, colour, finish and quality should be matched with colour
standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric.
 Zipper ordering and approval:
For ordering button, its line, colour, finish and quality should be matched with colour
standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric.
 Hanger and sizes ordering and approval:
These are ordered according to the buyers sizes.
38

44.  Poly bag and carton ordering and approval:
Poly bags are ordered according to the length, width and height of the garment and cartons
are ordered as mentioned in PO and DCPO
 Labels ordering and approval:
As labels are of different types, so it should be ordered according to buyers requirement
only wash care label is ordered after G.P.T.
 Zipper ordering and approval:
For ordering zippers, its teeth width, tapes quality and colour and important elements
should be matched with quality and colour standard or initial bulk fabric.
 Other accessory ordering and approval:
Other accessory like fusing, twill tapes shoulder pads, price tickets and hang tags ordered as
other are done.
39

45. RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT
R&D and IE are two separate departments working for the same aim i.e. increasing the production
of a company with minimizing the cost.
Various tasks performed are:
 To check that product is production feasible or not before sending final approval to buyer.
 Line balancing.
 Calculating thread consumption.
 Time study.
 Creating operation breakdown.
 Find out SMV.
 No. of machine.
 Helpers required.
 Sketching layouts for production.
 To find out the efficiency of the individual operator and line.
 Calculating daily efficiency of the unit.
 Co-ordination with PPC for improving the efficiency.
 Fix the target production.
 Decide the type of machine and work aids attachment required for particular operation.
 Machine breakdown.
 To monitor hourly production.
 Hourly line tracking status.
R&D lends hands in the following:
 SMV (Standard Minute Value) per operation and garment
 Thread consumption
 Operation breakdown/Operation bulletin (OB)
 Making production feasible, viable as well as friendly
 Saving cost
Any garment or order received through specimen or GSS is send to R & D department. The garment
or GSS is then analysing by the expert team to see the viability of the order and also to advice ways
of executing the order. An operation bulletin is prepared on the basis of which SMV is calculated by
using GSD (Garment Sewing Data).
GSD (Garment Sewing Data)
GSD is software which was first developed and installed in 1976. It is developed by UK based
company to find out the SMV. It is based on PMTS (Predetermined Motion Time System) which
40

46. divide/break into elemental parts equated to 45 codes in software according to operation i.e. Time
Value.
1 min. = 2000 TMV 1 sec = 27 TMV
Parameters of GSD
 L = Length  P = Precision Stop
 GT = Guide and Tension
SMV is calculated on the basis of work done through:
 Machine operation  Manual operation
GSD provides:
 Predetermined Motion Time System (PMTS) to a variety of industrial and electrical sectors.
 Regular contact and assistance with system application.
 Regular system upgrade.
PMTS (Predetermined Motion Time System)
PMTS provides a data base on recognized time for predetermined and accepted activities that take
place within a working environment. PMTS is used to evaluate working practices, with a view to
establishing the time it takes to perform a given task and to determine the costs associated to that
task.
The R&D teams have also appointed industrial engineer as their representatives in the production
units of the company. These engineers help the production managers to implement the suggestion
given by the R & D in the unit, assigned to them and solve R & D related problems faced by the unit.
Frequent meeting held between the R & D team and the industrial engineers to discuss the problem
faced and arrive at solutions. Feedback report will be generated by industrial engineers in
production floor; if any deviation is there then R & D will look into through product boast process.
Product boast process is done through stop watch i.e., Time study. They help out in balancing lines
and improving methods and also sitting styles, presentation and organizing.
The most vital as well as cost saving to the company is development of folders and attachment by
R&D department. Folders and Attachment are customized machinery parts which place a wonder
on the garments and it is to be developed accordingly. To the style/design in tool room and
experiment is being done by the technicians in R & D. R & D is continuously engaged in the task of
developing new folders and attachment for executing orders efficiently. This leads to increase
quality, efficiency at reduced costs, reduce no. of operations over and above, makes operations
easier.
41

47. PROCESS FLOW OF IE DEPARTMENT
Receiving Sketch/Garment from Merchant Construction Enquiry – Sampling Department
Product Friendly Solution
Calculate SMV Merchandising Department PPC Department
.
Production Cost Production Planning
Technical Analysis before Fit Stage -
Merchandising Department Incorporate in Sampling
Suggest Amendments (Stamp)
Department
Start Thinking Innovation Tool Room
Receive Sample for Thread Consumption
Make Operation Bulletin & Calculate
Merchandising Department
Thread Consumption
Receive Red Tag Sample Thread Order
In Depth Study of Style & Construction – Develop Customized Folders Tool Room
An Engineered Way (Innovate)
Prepare operation bulletin Prepare R & D Report
Update SMV & Finalize Report
+
42

48. +
Factory IE Discuss & Collects
Reports
Prepare Workstation Layout M/C & Work Aid Requirement to Maintenance
Line Setting According to IE Reports Procure from Maintenance
Capacity Check Analysis & Feedback R & D Analysis & Feedback IE Department
Production Studies to Increase Efficiency
Production Studies to Increase Efficiency Production Studies to Increase Efficiency
Achieve Targets
Industrial engineering department working is divided floor wise. All the floors of the 105,106 have
individual IE person sitting on the each floors. Working of the IE department is to follow up the OB
(operational bulletin) and setting up of the line according to the OB. IE department creates the OB
with the use of the GSD (general sewing data).
43

49. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Apart from having quality system and the best practices, ‘machine maintenance’ is also a very
important area to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results from ill-
maintained machine. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward reduced
downtime and increase life respectively proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid
causalities at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes:
 Care of the fitting  Machine configuration charts
 Adjusting settings  Needle movement chart
 Oil changing  Laser stock
 Out ward/inward reports  Needle log cards
The fabric used the percentage of needle time, the speed of machine and operator handling are the
factors, which determine how often the machine requires cleanings. On the floor, the maintenance
shop has a maintenance card for each machine, listing the data a mechanic serviced the machine,
who serviced it, what was done to it and why. A series of similar repairs occurring sooner than
normal would signal maintenance that something is radically wrong with the machine or that the
machine is being misused by the operator and the matter is checked out immediately. The general
procedure for preventive maintenance of sewing machines involves the following steps:
 Remove the face plate and clean it.
 Remove the needle plate clean the feed dog.
 Remove the belt guard and clean it.
 Adjust the V- Belt tension.
 Tight the (Z) stand and thread stand.
 Check the oil lubricating pipe, if any damage replaces it.
 Check all the timings and adjust it.
Control panel cleaning:
 Clean the PC Board with soft brush. Do not clean with blow air or use suction device.
 Clean the synchronizer properly.
 Keep the sewing table clean.
 Do not allow anyone to put the sticker on the table.
The maintenance schedule is carried out floor wise. Every production floor is provided with a
team of two mechanics, one assistance and one helper, which take care of the day to day
maintenance, break downs and settings of the machine. Whenever there is a breakdown of the
machine on the floor it is immediately shifted to the maintenance department and the same is
replaced with new machine from the stock so that production is not disrupted. Oil checking is
done on weekly basis and changing of the oil and servicing of the machines is done every three
months.
44

50. A workshop in this department caters to the need of new making new folders, guides and
modifying other attachments as developed by the R & D department for better production. It is
also the ‘operation theatre’ for the machines.
Machine maintenance also carries the purchase and receiving activities. Its purchase action has
track of every inventory including a needle present in the factory stock and procures new
inventory whenever needed. Stock register is maintained with discipline.
Total Number of Machines in the Organization
S.N M/C TYPES C. 105/ 105/ 105/ 105/ 20 20 20 66 M/5/ M7/1 TOTA
O M G F S T 0 1 4 0 4 8 L
1 S/N REGULAR 1 217 250 176 169 65 14 23 1 688 89 2029
1 2
2 S/N NEEDLE FEED 13 17 98 38 28 20 40 25 0 68 16 363
3 S/N T AND B FEED 18 3 1 1 8 0 0 0 67 1 99
4 S/N U.B.T 22 95 98 49 13 10 75 40 0 388 23 908
5
5 S/N EDGE CUTTER 9 21 18 8 38 10 27 25 0 16 3 175
6 D/N LOCK STITCH 10 58 78 13 55 22 4 18 0 7 1 266
7 D/N CHAIN STITCH 2 1 9 2 0 0 1 7 0 29 2 53
8 OVERLOCK 16 36 49 17 94 23 52 36 0 290 54 667
9 BUTTON STITCH 14 5 6 2 0 3 4 0 0 0 0 34
10 BUTTON HOLE 11 5 4 2 0 1 3 0 0 0 0 26
11 BARTACKING 15 6 8 2 0 0 2 1 0 1 0 35
12 EYELET 5 3 4 0 0 1 2 0 0 0 0 15
13 PNUEMATIC SNAP 0 7 2 7 0 1 2 2 0 0 0 21
BUTTON
14 THREAD 21 0 0 0 3 0 1 2 0 26 26 79
TRIMMING
15 OTHER+SPECIALISE 134 24 32 27 23 7 17 9 0 129 81 483
D
TOTAL 291 498 657 344 431 25 37 39 1 1709 296 5253
8 1 7
The types feed used in the machine:
 Top feed  Puller feed
 Drop feed  Compound feed
 Variable feed  Reverse feed
 Differential feed
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51. The types of beds available:
 Flat bed  Post bed
 Cylinder bed  Feed of the arm
The attachments used:
 T-guide  Edge foot
 Sewing guide  Zipper foot
 Magnetic guide  Imitation folder
 Three corner guide  Plait folder
 Bearing elastic holder  Plait hammer
 Right tape stands  Plait binder
 Top tape stands  Top stitch attachment
 Bottom tape stands  Cuff setter
 Right compensating pressure foot  Waist band folder
 Left compensating pressure foot  Piping binder
 Right/left slim compensating foot  Edge binder
 Double compensating pressure  Pin tuck attachment
foot  Button hole/button stitch spacing
 Quilting foot gauge
 Teflon foot
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52. CAD DEPARTMENT
CAD stands for Computer Aided Design. It is one of the most important departments of
export house. This department acts as a “Service Department” for merchandising, sampling
and cutting department. The working of these three department is highly depends upon
CAD department. Without CAD it is very difficult for these departments to move ahead.
CAD system involves any type of design activities which use of computer to develop analyse
or modify any engineering or garment design.
PROCESS FLOW OF CAD
PATTERN MAKING
DIGITIZING
STYLE/PATTERN
DESCRIPTION
ALTERATION OR
GRADING
CUT ORDER PLANNING
COSTING AND FABRIC
ORDER
MARKER MAKING
PRINTING FOR CUTTING
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53. Basic software which is used for computer aided designing in Modelama is as follows:
1. Modaris
2. Diamino
3. Optiplan
1. Modaris
This software performs the following functions:
 Pattern making
 Pattern modification
 Pattern digitizing
 Pattern grading
With the help of this software we can export and import pattern to another place in soft
copy.
2. Diamino
This software is used for marker making. It can be manual or automatic. Efficiency of
marker as decided as per the garment in this seam allowances are also added.
Functions per formed by this software are as follows:
 All markers making with minimum wastage.
 Solution of problems created due to centre selvedge, length variation and
side selvedge with best efficiency.
3. Optiplan
This software is used when buyer send uneven ratio. Functions performed by
optiplan are:
 All the cutting planning of size ratio is done by the software.
Main equipment used in CAD:
 Pattern pieces
 Digitizer
 Software
 Plotter:
o FLY PEN
o ALYS-30
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54. REQUIREMENT OF CAD
For Merchandising Department:
 Costing- CAD gives the costing to merchandising dept. means it gives the average
fabric consumed per garment. It is calculating by placing the pattern pieces of two
medium size garments in the fabric. Costing depends upon type of fabric and buyer
requirement.
 Fabric order booking- After calculating the average fabric consumed per garment,
calculation for the total fabric required is done accordingly. To the no. of garments
to be manufactured. After this calculation order is placed.
 Tracing pattern for buyer- CAD provides a tracing paper to merchandising dept.
which is further delivered to the buyer.
For sampling department:
 Pattern digitizing- In CAD, the pattern pieces are digitizing and a record of these
pattern is maintained for further correspondence.
 Alterations- If any alteration is required in the sample, according to the buyer, then
it is done in CAD.
 Grading- In CAD, different sizes such as XS, S, L and XL are made from medium size
by increasing or decreasing the garment dimension in equal proportion to make a
sampling “size-set”.
For cutting department:
 Marker- An efficient cutting marker is provided to the cutting department by the
CAD for production.
APPLICATION OF CAD:
 Offered significant reduction in lead times.
 Reduction in labour costs for generating new styles & modifying existing ones.
 Achieving significant reductions in fabric utilization.
 Blocks images stored in computer.
 Grading technique replaced by expert system. The grading technique, developed by
grades over many years in the form of tables, has been entered in to the computer
for use in a primitive expert system, so that grading is now auto matched.
 Percentage wasted computed and displayed for each layout.
 Fabric pattern constraints incorporate in the program.
 Cutters replaced by CAD/CAM.
 Lay markers deskilled.
 Wages reduced.
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55.  As the operator starts making the marker he/she can be supplied with a computed
ratio of cloth wasted.
MARKER MAKING
A marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes of specific style
that are to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making is a process of developing a jigsaw diagram which is superimposed on the
top of a ground of a superimposed plies as a guide for cutting these plies.
It determines the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specific style fabric and
distribution sizes.
Cut order planning determines:
 How many markers are needed?
 How many of each size should be in each marker and the number of plies that will
be cut from each marker?
EFFICIENCY OF MARKER PLANNING
The marker plan measures the efficiency by the following formula:
Efficiency = Area of the pattern pieces * 100/Total
area
Since the reduction in fabric cost is an important factor so the company should try and
discover the area for improvement in marker efficiency.
WAYS TO MAKE MARKER MOST EFFICIENT
 PATTERN ENGINEERING
An examination of the seams location to ensure the possible placement of pattern in
marker
 HEMS ALTERATION ALLOWANCES
Means dividing a large panel awkwardly shaped pattern into two pieces to better
accommodate in the marker
 THE SELECTION OF FABRIC WIDTH
The best width depends among other factor on the cost of various fabric
width/square meter, the typical number of sizes in a marker, the potential pattern
engineering changes at various width and the marker efficiency achieve.
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56. WORK FLOW OF SPREADING AND CUTTING
SPREADING
LAYERING
CUTTING
MANUAL/AUTOMATIC
TICKETING
FUSING
CHECKING
BUNDLING
TRANSFER TO PRODUCTION
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57. SPREADING
Spreading is the process of smooth layering of fabrics in superimposed layers of specified
length. After fabric is received it is issued to spreading department for further processing.
Spreading is done with the type of fabric, print of fabric and marker issued by the CAD dept.
PROCESS FLOW OF SPREADING:
FABRIC IS LOADED ON SPREADING MACHINE
PERFORATRED PAPER IS SPREAD ON SPREADING TABLE
VACCUME IS TURN -ON IN THE SPREADING TABLE
AUTOMATIC/MANUAL SPREADING IS DONE
PROPER TENTION IS MAINTAINED WHILE
WHEN FINISHED, VACCUME IS TURNED OFF
MARKER IS SPREAD OVER IT AND PASTED BY TAPE
AIR FLOW IS GIVEN FROM BOTTOM
TRANSFERRED TO THE CUTTING TABLE
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58. Points to be considered during spreading process:
 Ply alignment – Ply alignment can be straight edge or centred edge.
 Ply tension – Tight spread and slack spread should avoid during the spreading
process otherwise pattern can undersized or oversized respectively.
Tight edge spread can be removing by putting notches or cutting the tight edge.
 Grain alignment – It should always consider during spreading process.
 Static charge – In spreading it refers to the electric charge generate during
spreading.
 Surface direction – It means the pile direction or the design direction of the fabric
which is to be spread. It is very important factor in various types of spreading.
 Damage placement – Efficiency measured by economy with which damages are
removed. Fabric like lycra, spandex, wool blends are relaxed for 10 to 12 hrs, prior to
spreading.
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59. CUTTING
Cutting means to separate out different garment process from the lay of fabric with the help
of cutting template and devices. It is done to get required shape in different no. or as a
whole to make a complete product. The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the
cutting of material into the necessary pattern shapes. These patterns are then joined to
form a garment when large amount of garment style has to be cut, a lay is created, which
consist of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. Now all the pattern pieces for all
sizes are cut from this lay. The main objective of the cutting dept. is the cutting of garment
parts accurately and economically and in sufficient value to keep the sewing room supplied
with work.
Objectives:
 To maintain the quality of the cut components.
 To cut the raw material in required shape and quality.
 Availability of cut components on time.
Types of cutting devices:
 5 fusing machine
 16 straight knife
 6 edge cutters
 2 computer aided machines
 4 spreader
 1 round knife
BASIC WORK FLOW
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production
manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given
amount of styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the
following details:
1. Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only) and other
trims averages.
2. Measurement sheet.
3. Design worksheet of the garment.
4. Purchase order.
5. Fabric requisition sheet.
6. CAD mini marker.
7. Marker planning length of lay etc. size ratio and colours in which the patterns are
to be cut.
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60. Along with this an approved sample and patterns of all sizes or the marker are also sent. The
cutting department checks the fabric status in the store and acquires it whenever the
production manager sends the cut order. Firstly 2-3 samples are cut from the pattern
(medium size) send by the CAD room to check for any amendments in pattern. These
activities are coordinate by the R&D dept. When the patterns are amended the production
manager gets a size set cut and these pieces are stitches and QC on the floor locates any
discrepancies related to pattern in the stitched and the QC on the floor locates any
discrepancies related to pattern in the stitched garments. Report with comments for
alternation in the patterns is sent if needed and the pattern master allocated to that style
corrects the patterns accordingly. The marker planning is also done afresh to incorporate
the changes. Only when the production manager is sure of the waist pattern, he will issue
the job order for bulk cutting.
All the fabric is not cut at one go. Rather it is cut as and when required by the production
department against the job order. The cutting department calculates the fabric quantity
required the no. of pieces mentioned in job card using the average given by the CAD dept.
about 5% is cut more than required to make up for defective pieces or wastage for
production.
CUTTING AVERAGE
The cutting department duties are not limited to mare cutting of the fabric. It is responsible
for keeping control over the total consumption (grams) of fabric per garment piece cut this
consumption is more specifically defined in terms of cutting average. During marker
planning, the CAD rule sends theoretical consumption of fabric as per its marker, which is
calculated as following:
Cutting average = Area of one piece in the marker (cm square) * GSM of the fabric
10,000
Where
Area of one piece = length of the fabric
Total no. of pieces in the marker
Cutting average is used to determine the cost of raw material that is fabric for each
garment. Hence it is very important that it is maintained during the bulk cutting also. The
cutting manager finds out his actual cutting average before the bulk cutting and tries to
keep it as close as possible to the average predicted by the CAD.
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61. CUTTING SUB DEPARTMENTS
1. Layering and spreading 4. Fusing area
2. Cutting 5. QA department
3. Bundling and ticketing
TICKETING
Once the pattern pieces are cut by the cutting machine, they are then ticketed. Cut
components are grouped together as per their sizes and are taken to the checking table.
Here the cut components are inspected for any error. It is very important to take care that
pieces cut from two different bolts of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot
there bolt to bolt variation in colour shade.
FUSING
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from
the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The component along with the cut fusing material are kept
between to paper sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine by means of
temperature and pressure fusing takes place at particular speed and for a particular time.
The pack comes out at the other end on conveyors and the pieces are removed and re-
bundled.
Parameters affecting the fusing process:
 Pressure- Pressure applied to the fabric should be adequate so that even contact
between the interlining and outer cloth takes place and uniform heat is supplied to
the adhesive. Pressure should be adequate for the correct penetration of resin
among the fibres of fabric.
 Temperature-It is another important parameter. It depends upon the type of resin
used in fusing process. It should be high enough to change the dry thermoplastic
resin into a molten state so that it can flow properly between the fabrics. If
temperature is low it gives proper flow of resin and if it is high it gives too much flow
of resin and the resin will come out.
 Time- Time should also be adequate along with temperature and pressure. It should
be long enough so that melting and penetration of resin among the fibres of fabric
can takes place.
Types of fusing used in fusing:
 Woven fusing
 Non-woven fusing
 Knitted fusing
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62. CHECKING
The ticked panels are now sending to the checking area for inspection of every individual
piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, in appropriate
size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cuts, shade variation etc. that are not
within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting
component checking report is filled for the total quantity cut, checked and approved. The
rejected pieces are sent back and equal no. of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in
the set and ticketed with the same no. as the rejected ones. Other mend able faults are
marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out during garment
finishing or washing.
BUNDLING
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using
ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirements of the production plant. Each
bundle will contain pieces of same style and same size only. These pieces are stored in racks
made beneath the cutting table. The cutting department issues the amount required by the
production dept. as and when ask for. The cut component may be issued in instalment or all
at once as the need of the production dept. against the job order.
57