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1. General Rules for Removing Old Finish

2. 1. Do nothing that will harm the original surface unless the
piece is to be painted.

3. 2. If you plan to replace the old finish with a clear type, all
old finish must be removed so the new will hold properly.

4. 3. When removing old paint it is not only permissible but
acceptable to most collectors that the marks of wear
through the years, as well as traces of color from the old
paint be allowed to remain so that they will show through
the new finish. Traces of old paint add interest to the piece
by their variations of color, and are evidence of age. Old
paint however, should not be left on in thick patches or
blotches.

5. 4. For final cleaning, after using a remover, use a cabinet
scraper or knife blade on joints, corners, and angles on flat
surfaces. Use steel wool to clean out
carvings, turnings, mouldings etc.

6. 5. If the old finish is shellac, you don't need a paint and
varnish remover. It can be taken off with denatured
alcohol and steel wool.

7. Selecting Your Paint Remover

8. Commercial removers are solvents rather than corrosives.
They act more slowly on older paints than on new, but
they are the only materials that can be used safely. They
attack the material such as linseed oils used in paint, or
the resins in shellac, varnish, and lacquer. It won't injure a
surface by burning it or leaving marks and won't be
harmful to glue or raise the grain of the wood. They
contain no water and may be used on veneered surfaces
without causing the veneer to loosen. When used properly
and washed off, solvent-type paint removers leave the
surface clean. Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't
difficult, but patience, time, and-following the directions
on the container are required.

9. How to Remove Old Finishes

10. Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but
it takes patience, time, ans perseverance. Here are some
basic directions for using paint remover.

11. 1. Place the piece to be worked on over layers of old
newspaper in good strong light, and if possible, with the
top surface in a horizontal position. Avoid working in cold
temperatures below 68 degrees F--cold slows down the
action of removers.

12. 2. Shake the remover thoroughly, pour a small amount
into a small can and apply thickly with a full brush in one
direction. Do not rebrush.

13. 3. Let the remover stand for a period of from 10 to 20
minutes, or until the paint or varnish lifts.This is indicated
by a crinkling of the surface. Do not let the remover dry. If
it begins to dry, apply an additional coat and wait for it to
act.

14. 4. When the surface covering has lifted, remove it with a
dull putty knife that has the corners rounded off. Remove
the accumulation of remover and finish and wipe the knife
on a piece of old newspaper.

15. 5. Wipe off as much of the remaining finish as possible
using burlap squares.

16. 6. Scrub the surface with a small brush dipped in
denatured alcohol.

17. 7. Wipe off with several clean cloths.

18. 8. Rub the surface with steel wool dipped in denatured
alcohol.

19. 9. Wipe with cloths dipped in alcohol. This not only cleans
the traces of remover from the surface but neutralizes its
further action. Follow by wiping with clean cloths dipped
in turpentine or paint thinner.Then wipe with dry rags.
This will remove any remaining wax or silicone polish that
may have been used on the finish in the past. 10. Allow to
dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours.

20. Removing Deeply Buried Paints

21. A deeply buried paint can be removed entirely or partially
by a simple procedure. This is paint usually left after you
have removed the previous cotes with remover or light
scraping. Because it's so simple it's worth trying.

22. 1. Apply a liberal coat of shellac with a brush and let it dry
for at least 24 hours. 2. Use the remover as previously
directed. All or part of the buried paint will come off with
the shellac. Be sure all traces of the remover is gone and
the surface is completely dry before applying a new finish.

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