SlideShare uma empresa Scribd logo
1 de 86
2011
BVM Internship Report




            Navneet Kr. Yadav, Vinay Prajapati
            M.F.TECH, SEM-II, NIFT, Gandhinagar
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
A project report usually falls short of its expectations until and
unless guided by the right people at the right time. We would
thus like to express our deep sense of gratitude to our h onorable
mentor Prof. Pranav Vora for his constant aid and support
throughout the span of this project. They were always by our
side and accomplished us in this project on TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
at BHARAT VIJAY MILLS(BVM),KALOL .

We deeply acknowledge the HRD and executive HRD of Bharat
Vijay   Mills,   Mr.V.K.Chaturvedi   and   Mr.   Chintan   Dholakia
without whom our internship wo uld have been a distant dream.
We would also like to thank the general managers and other
staffs and workers of all the departments at Bharat Vijay Mills
for their helping hand in explain ing us the basic processes and
machinery and for providing us with complete information about
their respective departments.

Last, but not the least, we would like to thank our other faculty
members for their constant support in guiding us towards the
completion of this project.

                                           Navneet Yadav

                                           Vinay Prajapati
CONTENTS

   i.   Objective
  ii.   Company profile
 iii.   Introduction – fiber to fabric
 iv.    Spinning department
  v.    Yarn dyeing
 vi.    Weaving department
vii.    Corduroy
viii.   Grey folding
 ix.    Dyeing and processing
  x.    Testing
 xi.    Finishing
xii.    Finish folding
xiii.   Conclusion
xiv.    Bibliography
OBJECTIVE


 To understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric(both
  woven and knitted) production, dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric,
  textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for
  commercial purposes.
 To learn the all the above processes and their applications practically
  by applying theoretical concepts.
 To have an overview of the organizational structure of the company
  and mill.
 To know about the basic functioning of a textile mill.
 To understand the management of the company and the role of each
  subsystem (Dept.) and its relationship with other Subsystems for the
  smooth running of Business.
COMPANY PROFILE

Bharat Vijay Mills – the textile division of Sintex Industries Ltd., is into
converting fibre to finished packaged fabrics. It was established in the
year 1931. Later, in year 1956, the present management took over.
Their president is Mr. Dinesh Patel. They are for more than seven
decades in textiles as a leading manufacturer of fashion fabrics
consisting of varied product mix in Cottons and Blends. Their plant is at
kalol about 30 km from Ahmedabad city about 500 km in north of
Mumbai, India.


Their product range includes yarn dyed shirting, jacquard & Dobby
Structures, corduroys, bottom weights, solid dyed, Poplins & Dobby
Shirting with varieties of weaves, varieties of jacquard, dobby & leno
structured furnishing fabrics, organic cotton certified by union control,
linen, cotton with linen, silk, lycra, nylon, tinsel and viscose and surface
coating with pigment colors.


To be strict on the quality part, they practice ongoing quality checks at
every level starting from input of raw materials to the final product. After
the final product is ready, a 100 % inspection is conducted including
shade sorting and grading etc. And only after successful inspection, the
final product is shipped to the client. They also have organized state of the art
laboratories as well as pilot plants for R&D activities.


Their team of professional has been built by hiring the best in the industry and to
maintain healthy work culture, they empower them with mutual trust and the growth
opportunities. In house, they train their employees on behaviour, knowledge, culture,
and skills etc. Totally, 2000 employees including the most professional candidates and
managers, together make Bharat Vijay Mills a preferred partner to their clients for longer
business relationships.
A combination of their state of the art plant, modern technology, reliable QA systems,
qualified managers, and smart workforce make it together to offer world class quality of
products and services to their clients and customers. They are totally a customer driven
organization. Their export markets are worldwide as they are regular suppliers to
Europe,         USA,   Middle      East,    India    and     Neighbouring     Countries.


Infrastructure:

      Equipped with all level state of the art machinery.
      Fully automatic.
      Micro process controlled.
      Overall capacity - 22 million meters.
      Can deliver 65" finished width fabrics.
      Plant specifically designed for varied product mix (Fabric weights - 80 gsm to 550
       gsm)‫‏‬
           .
      Can handle 100% cotton as well as blends.
      Combination of rapier & airjet looms with dobbies and jacquards.
      Continuous and computer controlled processes for product consistency.
      Equipped to provide specialised mechanical & chemical finishes.
      Testing & QC lab equipped to satisfy most discerning customers.
      On line quality checking system.
      Networking facilities within the complex.
      Most modern & state of the art plant.

Their best practices include - Eco friendly products, economizing on water, energy &
salt utilisation, meeting the standards as lay down by discerning customers, higher
productivity.
Vision:

To achieve global presence in textile business through continuous product and technical
innovation, customer orientation and a focus on cost effectiveness, quality and services.

Their Additional services include a Design Studio -

      That offers four seasonal collections every year.
      CAD & Desk Loom Support based on Customers’ theme.
      Short Length Fabric Development on Auto Looms.
      Dedicated setup for Sampling Yardage from 10 to 100 meters.
      Continuous product concept developments.


Financial Details:

No of Employees – 2000
Turnover in Crs – 100-250 Crs
Sector- Private Sector

Buyer:

Arrow, Van Heusen, Armani, Hugo Boss, Diesel, Burberry, DKNY, S.Oliver, Zara,
Mexx, Meggimo Dotti, Banana Republic.

Website : www.sintex-india.com
Hierarchy in Organization



         Managing Director



             President



      Senior General Manager



         General Manager



      Deputyt General Manager



          Senior Manager



             Manager



         Deputy Managers



          Senior Executive



             Executive
Manageing Director




                                                                                     Administration And
                        Procurement           Marketing
   Group C.F.O                                                 Technical President      Operational
                          President           President
                                                                                         President




                                                                  Production,
                                                                                      HR, IR, Security,
Finance, Accounts,    Stores, Purchase,     Domestic and        Warehouse(Raw
                                                                                       Powerplant,
Secretrial Function    Export, Import         Export           material + Finished
                                                                                      Administration
                                                                   product)
PROCESS FLOW CHART

                            FIBER TO FABRIC
Fibers undergo the following processes to finally get converted into a finished fabric
(ready for garment construction).
SPINNING DEPARTMENT



Process Flowchart: Carded             Process Flowchart: Combed



                                           Stack mixing
     Bale opening

                                           Pre opening
     Stack mixing
                                            Blow room

      Blow room                                Card

                                            Pre comb
          Card
                                           Lap forming

     Draw Frame                              Comber

                                           Post comber
     Speed Frame
                                           Speed Frame

      Ring Frame            Winding        Ring Frame         Winding


                          Warping            Winding
      Winding


     Parallel winding                      Parallel Winding


        T.F.O                                   T.F.O
PROCESSES

Bale opening:
The bale of cotton brought into the spinning department is first opened for further
processes in blow room. It was done manually here.


Stack Mixing:
The opened bales are mixed.


Blow room:
Basic operations in the blowroom are:

           Opening
           Cleaning
           Mixing or blending
           Microdust removal
           Uniform feed to the carding machine
           Recycling the waste

Blow room installations consist of a sequence of different machines to carry out the
above said operations. Moreover Since the tuft size of cotton becomes smaller and
smaller, the required intensities of processing necessitates different machine
configuration.

Opening in blowroom means opening of cotton into small flocks. Technological
operation of opening means the volume of the flock is increased while the number of
fibres remains constant. i.e. the specific density of the material is reduced.

     The larger the dirt particle , the better they can be removed.
     Since almost every blowroom machine can shatter particles, as far as possible a
       lot of impurities should be eliminated at the start of the process. Opening should
       be followed immediately by cleaning, if possible in the same machine.
 The higher the degree of opening, the higher the degree of cleaning. A very high
       cleaning effect is almost always purchased at the cost of a high fibre loss.
       Higher roller speeds give a better cleaning effect but also more stress on the
       fibre.

MACHINE AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS:




Mixer opener GBR trutzschler

No. of machines: 2

Salient Features:

 Machine working width is 1600 mm.
 Infinitely variable production upto 800 kg/hr without opening and cleaning roller and
   upto 600 kg/hr with opening and cleaning roller.
 Additional bypass roller aid for a smooth flow of material when the machine is
   bypassed.
 In-built panel with PLC and Inverter helps to monitor the machine parameters.
 Dynamic change of Lattice and feed roller speeds possible.
 Fault announciation through display.
 Guide plates for optimum trash removal.
     Extremely good and consistent opening of material.
     Homogenous blending of the material prior to opening.

    All types of cottons, man-made fibres and their blends can be processed with or without
    cleaning point.

    Cleaning: The aim is separation of nonfibrous waste from fibrous blend. The way of
    separation depends on this waste properties. For metal particles are used magnets.
    Non-fibrous shape particle fall through working parts of machines (whereas fibers are
    catched) or they are separated due to their different inertia. Example of separatio due to
    different inertia is cyclone separator. The circulating mass of air, fibers and particles is
    moved up so heavy particles can´t follow the air stream and fall down. Fine particles
    should be filtered. The cleaning process is substituted in machines for fibers opening. It
    is possible to use special cleaning machines especially when the input fibrous material
    is dirty.

    MACHINE AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS
         B 12 Uniclean Pre-Cleaner - Efficient And
            Reliable Pre-Cleaning
         No. of machines - 2



    This pre-cleaner cleans the microtufts in the first
    cleaning stage. This enables machine output of up to
    1400 kg/h to be achieved. Cleaning is performed without nipping and is therefore very
    gentle to the fibers and at the same time efficient. VarioSet enables waste volume and
    waste composition to be adjusted optimally at the push of a button. This ensures a high
    level of raw material utilization.

    Salient features:

   This is designed for output of up to 1400 kg/h (carded sliver).
   Fiber yield with simultaneous efficient cleaning is up to 2% higher than on conventional
    units.
   Energy-saving due to low air consumption.
   Pre-cleaning without nipping and the use of mote knives results in fiber-preserving
    cleaning.
   The large dedusting surface ensures intensive dedusting even at high production
    performance.
   Rapid assessment of high cleaning performance and low losses of good fibers by visual
    waste checks.

    Mixing or blending: The consistency in yarn quality depends heavily on the
    homogeneity of the material composition. The objective of mixing is to optimize the
    homogeneity of the material mixture by combining several bales.
    Further objectives of mixing are:
        Decrease of irregularities in bales of different origin.
        Economic processing.
        Recycling of comber waste.
        Effect on the properties of final product.
        Reduction of raw material costs.
        Usualy are fibers stocked in one direction and remove in perpendicular direction.


    MACHINE USED AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS
 No. of machines – 1
    Trutzschlier mixing bale.

Perfect and Homogeneous blend is achieved, simultaneous mixing by doublings' over
an extended period of time is achieved.

The cotton bales are opened and premixed by bale opener.

This blend is blown by the material transport fan and conveyed into the feed duct above
the hopper.

The charging of the multimixer starts with the first hopper at the end of the feed duct.

It is filled only to just below the photo cell situated in the adjacent hopper, then the
closing flap of the second hopper is opened by push button operation.

Second hopper is charged to a rather higher than the first. The charging level of the
hopper rises uniformly up to the last hopper which is fully charged, when the last hopper
is full the Closing flap shuts automatically and charging restarts with first hopper, as
soon as the level second hopper has dropped below the Photo Electric cell. Whilst the
last hopper is being charged, material transport is switched on and material in the
hoppers starts to drop.

When the charging level rises, more and more of the holes in the perforated plate of the
upper part of hopper are blocked with material. This increases the pressure the
conveyor air. Once a pre-selected pressure is reached, which corresponds to a
particular charging level, an electronic switch closes the flap of this hopper and opens
up the flap of the next hopper."

The base of each hopper is closed by a pair of deliver roller which transfers the material
gradually and uniformly to an opening roller. The delivery rollers of the entire hopper are
two variable speed motor with control range up to 1 : 6 in this way it is possible to adjust
the output of multimixer to the feed requirement of the subsequent machine.
Opening roller gently loosen the material into tufts and deliver them into the blending
 channel from which they are sucked by the subsequent condenser.

 Microdust Removal: Cotton contains very little dust before ginning. Dust is therefore
 caused by working of the material on the machine. New dust is being created through
 shattering of impurities and smashing and rubbing of fibres. However removal of dust is
 not simple. Dust particles are very light and therefore float with the cotton in the
 transport stream. Furthermore the particles adhere quite strongly to the fibres. If they
 are to be eliminated they are to be rubbed off. The main elimination points for adhering
 dust therefore, are those points in the process at which high fibre/metal friction or high
 fibre/fibre friction is produced.

 Removal of finest particles of contaminants and fibre fragments can be accomplished by
 releasing the dust into the air, like by turning the material over, and then removing the
 dust-contaminated air. Release of dust into the air occurs whereever the raw material is
 rolled, beaten or thrown about. Accordingly the air at such positions is sucked away.
 Perforated drums, stationary perforated drums, stationary combs etc. are some
 instruments used to remove dust.


CARDING

 "Card is the heart of the spinning mill" and "Well carded is half spun" are two proverbs
 of the experts. These proverbs inform the immense significance of carding in the
 spinning process. High production in carding to economise the process leads to
 reduction in yarn quality. Higher the production, the more sensitive becomes the carding
 operation and the greater danger of a negative influence on quality. The technological
 changes that has taken place in the process of carding is remarkable. Latest machines
 achieve the production rate of 60 - 100 kgs / hr, which used to be 5 - 10 kgs / hr, upto
 1970.
The Purpose of Carding:

 To open the flocks into individual fibres
 cleaning or elimination of impurities
 reduction of neps
 elimination of dust
 elimination of short fibres
 fibre blending
 fibre orientation or alignment
 sliver formation



CARDING AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS

Lap feeding was followed for carding.
Carding capacity: 1.8 tonnes/day
       Machines :
       Trutzschler DK -740 cards : 8
       Trutzschler DK -780 cards : 8

Latest TRUTZSCHLER cards work with three licker-ins compared to one liker-in. The
first one is constructed as needle roll. This results in very gentle opening and an
extremely long clothing life for this roll. The other two rollers are with finer clothing and
higher speeds, which results in feeding more %of individual fibres and smallest tufts
compared to single lickerin, to the main cylinder. This allows the maing cylinder to go
high in speeds and reduce the load on cylinder and flat tops. There by higher
productivity is achieved with good quality. But the performance may vary for different
materials and different waste levels between the taker-in and main cylinder , the
clothings are in the doffing disposition. It exerts an influence on the sliver quality and
also on the improvement in fibres longitudinal orientation that occurs here. The effect
depends on the draft between main cylinder and taker-in. The draft between main
cylinder and taker-in should be slightly more than 2.0.
The opening effect is directly proportional to the number of wire points per fibre. At the
Taker-in perhaps 0.3 points/ fibre and at the main cylinder 10-15 points /fibre.If a given
quality of yarn is required, a corresponding degree of opening at the card is needed. To
increase production in carding, the number of points per unit time must also be
increased. This can be achieved by:

           more points per unit area(finer clothing)
           higher roller and cylinder speeds
           more carding surface or carding position

Speeds and wire population has reached the maximum, further increase will result in
design and technological problems. Hence the best way is to add carding surface
(stationary flats). Carding plates can be applied at

           under the liker-in
           between the licker-in and flats
           between flats and doffer

Taker-in does not deliver 100% individual fibres to main cylinder. It delivers around 70%
as small flocks to main cylinder. If carding segments are not used, the load on cylinder
and flats will be very high and carding action also suffers. If carding segemets are used,
they ensure further opening, thinning out and primarily, spreading out and improved
distribution of the flocks over the total surface area. Carding segments bring the
following advantages:

    improved dirt and dust elimination
    improved disentanglement of neps
    possibility of speed increase (production increase)
    preservation of the clothing
    possibility of using finer clothings on the flats and cylinder
    better yarn quality
    less damage to the clothing
    cleaner clothing
COMBING

  Lapping is a preparatory process for combing. The main objective is to flatten the slivers
  and obtain a dense lap of fibres to maintain fineness of the combed slivers.

  Combing is a method for preparing
  fiber for spinning by use of combs. It
  is a technique that has been used in
  the     preparation    of    textiles   for
  centuries. Essentially, combing is a
  process that helps to smooth and
  prepare fibers for use in spinning.
  Combing also helps to separate short
  fibers from longer ones, which also
  helps    to     make   the   process    of
  spinning much easier.

  While the combs used in this process
  of fiber preparation do function with a combing action, the actual devices have no more
  than a passing resemblance to the combs used on hair. For textile purposes, the fiber
  combs are equipped with long metal teeth. Two combs are utilized in tandem, with one
  comb holding the strand of fiber in place while the other comb moves across the surface
  of the fiber.

  Combing accomplishes two tasks at once. As the comb moves through the fiber, it
  slowly separates the shorter fibers from the longer ones. Short fibers do not work well in
  a spinning operation, but may be set aside and processed using a technique known as
  carding. The longer fibers are arranged into flat bundles, with all the fibers facing the
  same direction. These bundles can then be processed through spinning, creating yarn
  and thread that can then be used to weave cloth.

  Combing is normally used to prepare a worsted yarn that is made of natural fibers, such
  as cotton. In fact, combing cotton is a common process when the fiber is intended for
use in various forms of apparel. The combed cotton will feel smoother to the touch, and
also produce a garment that will wear longer than a garment made with uncombed
cotton.

Not all natural fiber yarns are made by combing, however. Woolen yarn is one example.
This type of yarn is made by carding the wool only; the additional step of combing is not
performed. Carding straightens some of the fibers, but not to the degree that combing
does. The result is a lighter, stretchier yarn with more air.

In general, carding is used on shorter fibers, while longer fibers are combed. Many
textile companies will employ both combing and carding in the preparation of fibers for
use in different types of products, such as shirting fabric, towels, sheeting, and other
essential household items.

SEQUENCE OF OPERATION IN A COMBER

    Feeding, lap is fed by feed roller.
    Fed lap gripped by the nipper
    Gripped lap is combed by circular comb
    Detaching roller grips the combed lap and moves forward while the detaching
       roller delivers the material, top comb comes into action to further clean the lap.
    While going back,nipper opens and receives a new bit of lap.
    The rawmaterial delivered by the carding machine can not be fed directly to the
       comber.
    Lap preparation is a must.

COMBING AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS

Combing capacity : 5 tonnes/day

Machines:

High speed combers LK -250 : 6
Lap former E2/4A : 2

  High speed combers LK – 54 : 1

  High speed combers LK – 64 : 2

  High speed combers LK – 10 : 1



Draw Frame

   8 slivers are combined to form one sliver to increase the uniformity and strength of
  sliver. Drawing is the process of combining several carded slivers into a single sliver. It
  eliminates irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were put
  individually.

  Blending of fibres can be done by combining slivers of different fibres.
  Within the card sliver is a substantial proportion of fibres with hooked ends. These
  hooks are formed as the fibres are moved along by the carding machinery. Their
  presence reduces the effective length of the fibre, and if these hooks are not removed
  the yarn produced will be weaker. Drawing out removes these hooks.

  TASKS OF DRAWFRAME

      Through doubling the slivers are made even
      doubling results in homogenization(blending)
      through draft fibres get parallelised
      hooks created in the card are straightened
      through the suction ,intensive dust removal is achieved

  Defects arising during drawing stages:

        Usable fibres in suction waste.
        Single sliver.
        Cuts in the sliver.
   Improper coiling.
        Improper stock filling.
        Improper functioning of autolevellers.

     Drawing at Bharat Vijay Mills:

     No. of Machines :

     HS draw frame DO/6 model – 2

     HS draw frame Padametex 720 – 4

     RSB 1 Draw frame – 2

     RSB-D-30 Draw frame - 2




SPEED FRAME

  120 sliver cans in one speed frame. Attenuation- drafting the sliver into roving:

                              twisting the drafted strand

                              winding the twisted roving on a bobbin

  The slivers are to be thinned out to the level required for the yarn to be spun. This
  process of attenuating the slivers is done in several steps on the Speed Frames. While
  converting slivers into roving, a small amount of twist is also inserted so that the roving
  could with-stand the winding and the unwinding tensions. The roving is would on
  suitable bobbins. Under conventional system of fly frames process, the machine use in
  this department are slubbing frame, intermediate frames and roving frames. Except as
  regard the numbers of spindles speed and dimensions of bobbins, the object structure
  and machine of all these frames are practically the same. The attention of the sliver is
  done gradually at each of these fly frames, depending upon the draft capacity of the
  machines. The drafting system employed determines the quality of the roving produced
at the fly frames. All the advantage in technology the slubbing and roving process is
    climinated and the material in processed through only the passage of fly frames, viz. the
    canfed incer frames.

     Fibre to fibre cohesion is less for combed slivers. Rollers in the creel can easily
       create false drafts. Care must be taken to ensure that the slivers are passed to the
       drafting arrangement without disturbance. Therefore, a perfect drive to the creel
       rollers is very important.
     The drafting arrangement drafts the material with a draft between 5 and 15.The
       delivered strand is too thin to hold itself together at the exit of the front bottom roller.
     Bobbin and flyer are driven separately, so that winding of the twisted strand is
       carried out by running the bobbin at a higher peripheral speed than the flyer.
     The bobbin rail is moving up and down continuously, so that the coils must be
       wound closely and parallel to one another to ensure that as much as material is
       wound on the bobbin.
     Since the diameter of the packages increases with each layer, the length of the
       roving per coil also will increase. Therefore the speed of movement of bobbin rail
       must be reduced by a small amount after each completed layer
     Length delivered by the front roller is always constant.

    The following parameters are very important in SPEED FRAME. They are

   Feed hank                                         Twist in the roving
   Delivery hank                                     Bobbin content
   Roving tension                                    flyer speed
   break draft                                       Creel and creel draft
   Drafting system                                   Drawframe sliverand can
   Bottom roller setting                             Bobbin height
   Top roller setting                                Breakage rate
   condensers and spacers                            Piecings
At Bharat Vijay Mills

Machines:

Speed frame TS 15 Model – 3

Speed frame LF 1400 Model -4

Speed frame LF 1400 A Model - 3




RING FRAME:




  The last stage in the manufacture
  of yarn is spinning. In order to
  convert     the   roving   into   the
  required counts main operation
  which are simultaneously carried
  out off the ring frame are twisting
  and winding.

  The roving received from the fly
  frame department is still much
  thicker than the thickness final
  yarn required. Therefore the first
  process on the ring frame is
  drafting.   The    other   operation
  which are done in the ring frames are twisting and winding. The amount of twist
  inserted here is larger than at any other previous stage on order to strengthen for
  the end use required. The twisted yarn in wound on bobbins.
Hence this process is carried out :

    To draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved
    To impart strength to the fiber, by inserting twist
    To wind up the twisted strand (yarn) in a form suitable for storage, transportation
     and further processing.

     Ring frame at Bharat Vijay Mills:

     Machines:

     Ring Frame DJ50N Model - 7


WINDING



  Since bobbins from ring frames are
  not suitable for further processing,
  hence winding of yarns on cones is
  done.
      First, yarns from bobbins are
          wound onto cones
      Secondly, if the yarns are to
          be dyed, then yarns from
          cones are transferred to soft
          package.
      After dyeing, yarns are wound
          onto cones again for proper
          unwind of yarns during warping.

  Machines :

  Schlafhorst Autoconer 238 RM - 22
MACHINES IN SPINNING DEPARTMENT

  Section                      No. of machines
 Blow room                              9
  Carding                            16
 Combing                             14
  Drawing                            10
Speed Frame                          10
Ring Frame                              8
  Winding                            22
  Others                                3
YARN DYEING

Yarn dyeing is the dyeing of yarns before they have been woven or knitted into fabrics.

Yarns may be dyed in different forms:

   1) Skeins
   2) Packages
   3) Beams

   1) Skein dyeing – It consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks of yarns into
      dye vats that are specially designed for this purpose. Soft, lofty yarns such as
      hand knitted yarns are dyed using this method. It is the most costly yarn dyeing
      method.
   2) Package dyeing – In package dyeing, about a pound of yarn is wound on a
      small perforated spool or tube called package. It is widely used for most type of
      yarns found in knitted and woven fabrics.
   3) Beam dyeing – It is simply a much larger
      version of package dyeing. An entire warp is
      wound onto a perforated cylinder, which is
      then placed in a beam dyeing machine where
      flow of the dye bath is alternated as in
      package dyeing.

Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and
acrylic or wool yarn are dyed at hank form.

At Bharat Vijay mills, 100% cotton yarns were
manufactured. Hence, package dyeing was the form
of yarn dyeing used at BVM. Two types of dyes –
vat & reactive dyes were used.
Reactive dye

   1. Pretreatment
   2. Peroxide bleaching
   3. Acid treatment

Vat dye

   1) Pretreatment
   2) Dyeing
   3) Oxidizing
   4) After treatment
   5) softening

The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form is given
below:

Firstly the raw yarn is winded on spring tube to achieve package suitable for dye
penetration. Then, these softened packages are loaded on a dyeing carrier's spindle
one on other. Then, the packages are pressed up to a desired height to achieve suitable
density of pkg. then, the carrier is loaded on dyeing machine and yarn is dyed. after
dyeing, the packages are unloaded from the carrier in to a trolley. Then, all the
packages are hydro extracted using a
HYDRO      EXTRACTOR         to   remove
maximum amount of water. Then, all the
packages are dried using PRESSURE
DRYER      OR     RF       DRYER(RADIO
FREQUENCY DRYER) to achieve the
final dyed package. At last the dyed yarn
packages are packed and delivered.

HYDRO EXTRACTOR
After dyeing, the packages are sent to hydro extractor which extracts maximum amount
of water from the package. Then the packages are sent to pressure or RF dryer for
further drying.

RF DRYER(RADIO FREQUENCY DRYER)

More than 800 "RF" (Radio Frequency) model
dryers, installed throughout the world since 1981,
are presently in operation for the drying, to a
conditioned weight, o f yarns in packages and
cakes, worsted fibres (tops) in bobbin and bump
form.
Most combinations of natural, artificial and
synthetic fibres, filament fibres or worsted and
spun, pure or blended, in every count and form
can be dried perfectly, down to the desired
residual   moisture     level,    with   outstanding
efficiency and quality results.

In the "RFA" (Radio Frequency Assisted) series dryers, the RF treatment, precisely
controlled in the different phases of the drying process thanks to a special design of the
RF application electrodes, is combined with a
conventional warm air circulation system.



PRESSURE DRYER


Dyed yarns are fed into this machine for drying
under high pressure and temperature.The
today's pressure dryer is equipped with an
intelligent control unit, high performance heat
exchanger, separator and a special blower.
Options:

    Satellite kier
    Conditioning device for optimum distribution of remaining moisture
    Continuous blower operation between batch changes for energy savings




Machines at Bharat Vijay Mills

Each package is of 700 gm.

    Weighing capacity of machine(in kg)                    No. of machines
                      27                                           2
                      46                                           6
                      60                                           4
                      100                                          1
                      109                                          4
                      110                                          3
                      200                                          1
                      400                                          2
                      600                                          2
                      850                                          1

RF Dryer: 2 m/c

Pressure Dryer: 1m/c

Hydro Extractor: 2 m/c




                            WEAVING DEPARTMENT
1) WINDING


The process of transferring yarn from ring bobbins, hanks, cones etc onto a suitable
package is called Winding.


Purpose of Winding:
1. To transfer yarn from one package to another package, this can be conveniently used
for the weaving purposes.
2. To remove yarn faults like hairiness, neps, slubs, and foreign matters.
3. To produce long length of yarn by serially joining one yarn package with another.
4. To make bigger package.
5. To make soft package for package dyeing.
6. To permit easy unwinding during warping.
7. To avoid of excess looseness and tightness.


2) WARPING


The primary objective of the warping process is to provide a continuous length of yarn
from individual wound yarn packages, in sheet form to a beam for the succeeding
process. There are several types of warping techniques, including: ball, direct, draw,
indirect also called sectional and sample warping.


When utilizing any technique in the warping process it is important to minimize end
breaks, keep a constant and uniform tension on the yarns, keep a constant yarn speed,
and insure quick response braking of the warper. These factors play a large role in the
quality of the warp yarns, which in turn influences the runability of that warp yarn in the
succeeding process.
Most modern warpers are equipped
with electronic stop motions which
stop the warper as soon as a broken
end is detected. It is crucial that the
braking system is fast enough to stop
the warper before the end reaches
the beam. The end is much harder to
find and correct once it has been
wound    onto       the    beam.   Today's
braking systems allow the beams to
stop before one full revolution has
occurred on the warp beam, in a
direct system, or on the pattern drum
in an indirect system.

In the process of weaving, for warp yarns, we need to produce pre bean which is also
called warpers beam. To produce warpers beam we need warping machine with a creel
capacity about 400-700 cone capacity. To produce a weavers beam we need 6 to 16
warpers beam. Number of cones to be use in the creel depends on production planning.

Warping at Bharat Vijay Mills:

Two types of Warping machines were
used in the mill:

                         Direct Warping
                         Sectional Warping

Direct Warping Machine: 2

        TECH MECH T- 1000
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
  WORKING WIDTH                       :   54 to 84
  BEAM FLANGE DIA                     :   28” to 36”
  MAX WARPING SPEED                   :   600 Mtrs. / Min
  DRIVE                               :   AC Variable speed frequency control
  BRAKING DEVICE                      :   Pneumatic disc brakes for drum
  BEAM LOADING &                      :   By pneumatically operated levers.
  UNLOADING
  BEAM PRESSING                       :   Pneumatic pressing on both sides.
  DRUM                                :   steel drum
  GUIDE ROLL                          :   Balanced Hard Chrome plated


Sectional Warping Machine: 6


      SERVOTECH -130


FEATURES
          Fixed cone height.
          Steel drum dynamically balanced.
          Variable frequency AC Drive.
          Hydraulic disc brakes on both sides.
          Stopping of drum at exact position at
           end of section.
          Auto braking in case of Power failure.
          Auto stop at point of lease cord.
          Two separate motors for warping and
           beaming.


Various parts of the machine are:
     DISPLAY UNIT
                       DISC BRAKE
                       BEAM PRESSING DEVICE
                       WARPING TABLE
                       MOTORIZED LEASING DEVICE
                       INSPECTION SOFTWARE
                       PRINTER




3) SIZING

Sizing is a complementary operation which
is carried out on warps formed by spun
yarns   with   insufficient   tenacity   or   by
continuous filament yarns with zero twist. In
general, when sizing is necessary, the yarn
is beam warped, therefore all beams
corresponding to the beams are fed, as
soon as warping is completed, to the sizing
machine where they are assembled.

Sizing consists of impregnating the yarn
with particular substances which form on
the yarn surface a film with the aim of
improving yarn smoothness and tenacity
during the subsequent weaving stage. Due
to its improved tenacity and elasticity, the
yarn can stand without problems the
tensions    and   the    rubbing   caused     by
weaving.

The sizing methods change depending on
the type of weaving machine used, on the
yarn type and count, on the technician’s experience and skill, but above all on the kind
of material in progress. The only common denominator of the various sizing materials is
that they have to be easily removable after weaving in order to allow carrying out
without problems the selected finishing cycle. The substances used as sizing material
are potato flour, starches, glues, fats but also talc and kaolin, when a particularly thick
size is requested.

In Bharat Vijay Mills , there were total six warp sizing of three different brand:

                            Ambica warp sizing machine - 1
                            Sucker Muller sizing machine - 3
                            Jupiter sizing machine - 2

All the warp sheets from different beams are converted into 1 single sheet. Size is made
in a drum and is transported through pipes and applied on the beam. It is then dried by
hot rollers which are filled with steam.

4) DRAWING –IN

The term drawing-in and warp tying refers to the
operations involved in preparing the weaver's beam
for the purpose of weaving fabrics on the loom. The
drawing-in process primarily consists of drawing
ends from the weaver's beam through heald eyes
of different harnesses and then through the dents
of a reed in the order that is determined by the
design of the fabric.


 If a beam is to be worked with warp stop motion
on the loom, especially when using closed drop-
pins, the ends have to be drawn through these pins
before drawing them through the heald eyes and
reed dents.
Conventionally drawing-in is carried out manually by two persons-one, the reacher for
selecting and presenting the ends from the beam, and the other, the drawer for pulling
ends through the drop-pins, heald eyes and reed dents.


The main requirements of carrying out this process properly and efficiently are:


1. The operator should be aware of the principles of drawing-in and be trained to do the
job speedily because any mistakes or delays in carrying out the process would prove to
be costly.
2. The healds and reeds should be in good condition and of suitable specifications for
ensuring that these are not the cause of warp breaks on the loom and of defects in the
fabric.
3. The drawing of the beam should be done properly to avoid cross ends on the beam.
4. Suitable precautions should be taken to reduce the incidence of extra-ends and to
compensate for the missing ends during the weaving of the loom.

Only two machines were used in Bharat Vijay Mills for drawing-in process. There were
two models of STAUBIL:

         DELTA- 100: The DELTA 100 is specially designed for filament weavers and
          draws in the warp threads into healds and reed only.


         DELTA-110: The DELTA 110 drawing-in installations are designed for weaving
          mills with medium drawing-in requirements. Drawing in at speeds of up to 140
          per minute takes place directly from the warp beam with 1 warp sheet, or
          optionally with 2 warp sheets into healds, drop wires and reed. An optional
          module is available for drawing in coarse yarns.

The main characteristics are:

    Feature                                DELTA 100             DELTA 110
    Drawing-in speed (ends/min)            100/140*              100/140*
    Number of warps in 8h (ca.)            up to 5 (6*)          up to 5 (6*)
Warp widths (m)                      2.3                   2.3 / 4.0 / 6.0
   Number of warp beams                 1                     1
   Number of thread layers              1 (2*)                1 (2*)
   Reed density (teeth/dm)              350 (500*)            350 (500*)
   Max. no. of frames (J/C-healds)      20                    20
   Max. no. of frames (O-healds)        16                    16
   Max. rows of dropwires               –                     6 (8*)
   Number of dropwire paths             –                     1
   Drawing-in element                   Hook                  Hook
   Yarn count range (tex)               3-250                 3-250



5) Weaving Process
Weaving is the process of making cloth, rugs, blankets, and other products by crossing
two sets of threads over and under each other. Weavers use threads spun from natural
fibers like cotton, silk, and wool and synthetic fibers such as nylon and Orlon. But thin,
narrow strips of almost any flexible material can be woven. People learned to weave
thousands of years ago using natural grasses, leafstalks, palm leaves, and thin strips of
wood.


Today weaving ranks as a major industry in many countries. Weaving is often
completed on high speed looms. But weaving is not limited to cloth and textile products.
Weaving plays an important part in the manufacture of screens, metal fences, and
rubber tire cord. Craftworkers also use varied fibers to weave baskets and hats.


Woven fabrics are classified as to weave or structure according to the manner in which
warp and weft cross each other. The three fundamental weaves, of which others are
variations:
                    Plain
                    Twill
                    Satin
PLAIN WEAVE:

Each weft yarn goes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn goes
alternately over and under each weft yarn. Some examples of plain weave fabrics are
crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin.

TWILL WEAVE:

Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or other design. The design is
enhanced with colored yarn is strong and may develop a shine. Twill weave is
characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the yarns, which are exposed on the
surface. Twill weaves are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of
comparable fiber and yarn size. Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or
more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left

SATIN WEAVE:

Floats one warp yarn over four or
more weft yarns, then tied down
with one thread, resulting in a
smooth face

Common      Fabrics:   Satin,   satin-
weave fabrics out of fabrics such as
cotton & Charmeuse.

LOOMS

A loom is a mechanism or tool used
for weaving yarn and thread into
textiles. Looms vary in a wide
assortment of sizes. They come in
huge free standing hand looms, tiny hand-held frames, to vast automatic mechanical
tools. A loom can as well pertain to an electric line construction like that of a wiring
loom. The main task of looms is to clutch the twist threads under pressure to enable the
progress of interweaving of the woof strands. The loom's system and exact form can
differ to some extent; however it still performs the basic application.

The major components of the loom are the warp beam, heddles, harnesses, shuttle,
reed and takeup roll. In the loom, yarn processing includes:

             shedding
             picking
             battening
              taking-up operations.

Shedding. Shedding is the raising of the warp yarns to form a shed through which the
filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. The shed is the vertical space
between the raised and unraised warp yarns. On the modern loom, simple and intricate
shedding operations are performed automatically by the heddle or heald frame, also
known as a harness.

Two common methods of controlling the heddles are dobbies and a Jacquard Head.

Picking. As the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the
shed is created. The filling yarn in inserted through the shed by a small carrier device
called a shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow passage through
the shed. A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to the other is
known as a pick. As the shuttle moves back and forth across the shed, it weaves an
edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling.

Battening. As the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, it also
passes through openings in another frame called a reed. With each picking operation,
the reed presses or battens each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that has
already been formed.
Taking up: With each weaving operation, the newly constructed fabric must be wound
on a cloth beam. This process is called taking up. At the same time, the warp yarns
must be let off or released from the warp beams.

TYPES OF LOOMS:

There are two types of looms
depending upon the weft insertion:

      SHUTTLE

      SHUTTLE-LESS


        Air jet
        Water jet
        Rapier
        Projectile

In Bharat Vijay Mills rapier and air jet were used.

Rapier Looms:

The rapier weaving machines are the most flexible machines on the market. Their
application range covers a wide variety of fabric styles. Their present weaving speed of
about 600-700 strokes/min is the result of the use of a state-of-the-art construction
technique, characterized by the use of gear sets without plays and by minimum
vibrations of the reed, the slay and the heald frames.

The weft, which is under constant proper control, remains connected to the cloth as a
consequence of the previous insertion. At the right moment the selection gear acts in a
way, that the end of the weft is caught by the bearing rapier 1 mounted on a flexible
tape or on a rod and at the same time is cut by shears on the selvedge side. The weft,
after adequate braking, is transported to the center of the shed, where the bearing
rapier meets the drawing rapier 2, which takes over the weft thread and, while holding it
by its end, transports it back to the opposite side, where the rapier leaves it free, thus
completing the insertion.

The weft exchange between the two rapiers in the middle of the shed can take place in
two different ways, that is:

      negative system                               positive system
Air jet:

The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft insertion
performance and are considered as the most productive in the manufacturing of light to
medium weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton and certain man-made fibres (sheets,
shirting fabrics, linings, taffetas and satins in staple yarns of man-made fibres); it has
anyway to be pointed out that technically positive results are obtained at present also
with heavy weight fabrics (denims) and that some manufacturers produce also machine
models for terry production. These machines are the ideal solution for those who want
to produce bulk quantities of customized fabric styles. The weaving widths range
generally from 190 to 400 cm. As regards the multicolour weft carrier, up to 8 different
wefts can be fed.

It has however to be considered that the air jet weaving machines require a high energy
consumption to prepare the compressed air and that this consumption rises definitely
with increasing loom width and running speed. The reduction in the energy consumption
is in fact one of the main concerns of the manufacturers, and builds for the user an
important selection criterion.




      S.NO.       TYPES OF LOOMS                      NO. OF LOOMS

       1              JACQUARD                  18 ( air-jet – 2, rapier – 16)

       2                 DOBBY                              325

       3                 PLAIN                               32
For shedding mechanism jacquard and dobby machines were in use. There were 18
jacquard and 325 dobby machines.

JACQUARD SHEDDING MACHINE:

The name Jacquard machines originates from the designer who improved its operation;
today the name ″Jacquard″ is used to identify all machines with a capacity higher than
28-32 threads, which are therefore used to produce figured fabrics.

Jacquard machines were initially classified as follows:

    Jacquard machines
    Vincenzi machines
    Verdol machines

At present only Verdol machines and electronic Jacquard machines are still on the
market. Jacquard machines can be classified as follows:

According to card reading system:

    dobbies with endless pattern card reading system
    dobbies with electronic reading system


Electronic Jacquard

In these machines the traditional hooks have been replaced by electro-mechanically
operated modules which are driven and controlled by an electronic program. The
Jacquard machines available on the market are double lift machines and have in
respect to mechanical Jacquard machines following advantages:

    easy maintenance owing to following reasons:
    no point needing lubrication,
    few moving parts
    modular construction and thus easy access;
    low vibration even at high speed;
    reduced setting time, as the machine is electronically controlled and therefore no
      paper is needed.



      Machine model – gamMax Picanol

      Speed of air-jet loom – 650 rpm

      Speed of rapier loom – 400 rpm

      Cost of loom – Rs. 4,00,000

      Cost of jacquard – Rs. 4,50,000

      Jacquard made for Home furnishings

      Yarns                  used             –
        viscose,polyester,chennile

      Design repeat – 14.28”

      Fabric/loom width – 72”

      Maximum jaqcuard hook capacity – 2688 hooks

                  •   design hook capacity(body) – 2400 (rest 288 in selvedge)



PRINCIPLE         &      CONSTRUCTION          OF
JACQUARD LOOM

      Principle : electromagnetic principle

      Electronic programming file(EPF) used
        for making design

      Soft           wares          used          :
        Textronic,ANDX,SOPHIS

      CONSTRUCTION:

      52 solenoid boards are present in each
        jacquard machine

      24 solenoids/board
 2 hooks attached between two solenoids on the board

    Each hook has a stopper which limits its updown movement.

    A belt is attached to the ends of the two hooks( top belt)

    The top belt holds a pulley which in turn is attached to a bottom belt

    The bottom belt is connected to the harness(wire or rope)

    The harness is attached to the heald wire of the loom through which warp
       passes.



WORKING OF JACQUARD

    The solenoid attracts the hook as soon as it gets an electronic signal.

    The hook follows an updown movement according to the command from the
       CPU.

    The hook in turn leads to the movement of the harness and hence the loom.

    Thus weaving takes place according to the fed design.



DOBBY SHEDDING MACHINE

Dobbies are used for the production of plain or flat fabrics, that is of fabrics
characterized by maximum 28-32 threads in the weave repeat.

  Operation principle of a dobby

Today the rotary dobby is, from the technological point of view, the most advanced
dobby available on the market.

It consists of a central shaft on which the driving bars are positioned. On a follower ring
an eccentric plate is mounted; the plate is constrained within a block which is pivoted
with the control levers of the rods.

Under normal working conditions, that is with the heald frames in bottom position, there
is no connection between the follower ring and the plate; the connection can be
obtained by inserting a slider which runs in proper guides.
The central shaft is driven by a modulator which has two stop times situated each other
at 180 degrees ; at this very moment the key can be controlled according to the design
to be produced.

                                     CORDUROY
   •   Corduroy is a textile composed of twisted fibers that, when woven, lie parallel
       (similar to twill) to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord”.

   •   The width of the cord is commonly referred to as the size of the "wale" (i.e. the
       number of ridges per inch).

   •   Corduroy is made by weaving extra sets of fiber into the base fabric to form
       vertical ridges called wales.

   •   The float is cut and then brushed.

   •   Chemicals used for smoothening the rib pressed during finishing are siligen and
       turbingal.

Corduroy is made mostly from
cotton.     Long wefts span several
warp and when the weft is cut it
creates the familiar high raised lines
or cords with fine backing fabric
lines between. The cords lines run
the length of the warp. Like velvet,
corduroy should be cut in one
direction    only   when   making      a
garment or using heavier elephant
cords in upholstery.

 This material is used to produce
 casual wear such as trousers,
 jeans, caps and jackets. It often has other names such as corded velveteen,
elephant cord, pin cord, Manchester cloth as it was produced as a Manchester
 cotton textile and worn originally by poorer workers in the same way that fustian was
 used. Manchester cloth was very good quality with dense pile but is virtually
 impossible to obtain today. Cotton corduroy today is often mixed with Lycra to make
 the fabric easier to wear and retain shape.




      Weave                   Wash                     Dye


       Grey
                              Bleach                 Finish
      folding


        Cut                   Brush                  Brush


      Brush                  Inspect                  Fold                    Pack



The principles of constructing a corduroy fabric:
   The weave contains two pile
      picks a, b and two ground picks
      1, 2. The ground picks 1, 2
      interlace with warp forming the
      ground weave. Arrangement of
      ground pick and pile pick is 1:2.
      The pile pick floats over five
warp threads which are convenient for cutting process.

The pile picks interlace with the warp threads 5, 6 for binding the piles where the
intersections are called pile roots.

    After weaving, the pile weft was cut by specially constructed knives between the
       warp threads 2 and 3 (where the arrow points in Fig. 8.1). Then, brushing it, the
       piles will be upright, forming a full bulky band corduroy.

Working of a corduroy cutting machine:




    The circular knife is placed on a mandril A indicated by the arrow.

    As the knives revolve, fabric advances towards in the direction indicated by an
       arrow F.

    A guide wire E is inserted in the fabric under the long weft floats. The guide wires
       have these functions: 1) guiding the weft floats forming a loop-like: “race” to the
knives, and tautening them when they are cut, and 2) keeping the knives in the
      centre of each “race”. As the uncut fabric approaches, the knives guide wires are
      conveyed along by it, and consequently require to be pushed forward again
      intermittently. This is accomplished by a series of spirally arranged rotary cams.




No. of machines at Bharat Vijay Mills:

    Cutting    : 12 (capacity 700m/shift)

    Brushing : 2 (capacity 5000m/shift)

    Inspection : 4

    No. of workers: 56

In inspection of corduroy, there were two workers per inspection machine.
GREY FOLDING
•   Fabrics comes to Grey folding after weaving.
•   They are checked, mended and sorted here.
•   The fabric comes with a lot card and is maintained by a register containing lot
    no., sort no, date, bandha kg, meters, Finish width, contract no, grey width,
    buyer, pallet no, number of pieces, sample etc.
•   Capacity: 50,000 m/ shift
•   No. of workers: 85
•   No. of mending m/c: 14
DYEING & PROCESSING

    PRETREATMENT

    Pretreatment can be defined as a series of cleaning processes or operations that make
    the fabric fit for the preceding process i.e. dyeing & printing.
    Pretreatment processes should ensure:
        the removal of foreign materials from the fibres in order to improve their
           uniformity, hydrophilic characteristics and affinity for dyestuffs and finishing
           treatments
        the improvement of the ability to absorb dyes uniformly (which is the case in
           mercerising)
        the relaxation of tensions in synthetic fibres (without this relaxation of tension,
           unevenness and dimension instabilities can occur).


    Before dyeing a fabric or yarn some pre-treatment and after treatment is needed. Cotton
    pretreatment includes various wet operations, namely:

       •   Singeing
       •   Desizing
       •   Scouring
       •   Mercerising (and caustification)
       •   Bleaching.




    1) Singeing
•   Protruding fibre ends at the fabric surface disturb the surface appearance and produce
    an effect known as "frosting" when dyed. It is therefore necessary to remove the surface
    fibres by passing the fabric through a gas flame.
•   The fabric is passed over a row of gas flames and then immediately into a quench bath
    to extinguish the sparks and cool the fabric.
•   The quench bath often contains a desizing solution, in which case the final step in
    singeing becomes a combined singeing and desizing operation.
•   Brushing was done to remove the remaining burnt fiber.
•   Flame was perpendicular to the fabric and can be 1.5 to 4 mm from the end of the
    flame.
•   Natural gas (ONGC) was used
•   Temperature < 90 degrees
•   Speed is 80m/min.
•   No. of machines – 1


    Objective:
        Increase wettability, better dyeing characteristics, improved reflection, no frosty
             look.
        Improved visibility of the fabric.
        Less pilling
        Decreased contamination through the removal of fluff and lint.


    There are three types of singeing:
        Plate singeing
        Roller singeing
        Gas singeing


    It is a continuous process carried out on dry open width fabric.It may be done on one
    side or both sides.


    2) Desizing
       •     Desizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp
              yarns in woven fabrics.
       •     Sizes are applied to the warp yarns to assist in the weaving process.
    Objective:
        Removal of added impurities like starch.
 Weight loss
        Improved wettability.

                                                           Rot steep

                                                           Enzymatic
                                              Hydrolytic
                                                             steep

                                                           Acid steep
                              Desiging
                                                            Chlorite

                                              oxidative     chlorine

                                                            Bromite


•   Enzymatic desizing was done i.e. enzymes were used to remove the size from the
    fabric. The enzymatic process depends on the quantity of enzyme molecules per gram
    of fabric, while the thermal stability of the enzyme depends on the bacteria strain from
    which it originates.


    Sizes are removed so that chemical penetration of the fabric in later stages(Dyeing
    ,Printing & finishing)is not inhibited.
                No. of machines – 1
                Speed of machine – 80 m/min
                Reaction time – 6-8 hrs
                Washing in hot wash (95 degrees)




    3) Scouring
    It is the process of removing natural impurities present in the cotton fibre. The natural
    impurities are pectin’s, pectos, ash, wax, mineral compounds, etc. if those impurities
    present in the cotton fibres are not removed, then it will be difficult to dye or print the
    fabric uniformly. Normally caustic soda ash is used as main reagent fro scouring of
    cotton fabric.
Objective:
    To remove natural fat, wax, oil materials containing in the fabrics without
       damaging the fibres.
    To accelerate dye and chemical absorption of the fabrics.
    To improve the handle of the goods.


   •   done using NaOH and hot water(96-97 degree celcius) under high pressure
   •   time- 15-20 minutes


   4) Bleaching
It is the process of removing natural coloring matters present in the cotton fibre. For his
purpose, hydrogen peroxide, bleaching powder or other bleaching agents are used.
Hydrogen peroxide is the best and most commonly used bleaching agent. If this
bleaching treatment is not carried out before dyeing or printing hen the color yield and
shade matching may be a great problem.


Objective:
    To whiten the goods.
    To make the goods suitable for dyeing and printing with pale or bright shade.
    To be follow with adding optical brightening agent process(super white)


There are two types of bleaching:
    Hydrogen peroxide
    Sodium hypochlorite.


Recipe
    Hydrogen peroxide, wetting agent, caustic, stabilizer
    NaOH (pH 10.5 to 11)
    Sequesterant
    Temperature: 95-100 C
    Speed of machine – 60-80m/min
Drying of fabric was done using heated rollers which had steam inside it.
No. of rollers – 28


   5) Mercerization
It is a special chemical pre-treatment on cotton fabric t improves the properties and
performance of cotton fabric. The cotton fabric is treated under tension in the 20%
caustic soda solution which is called mercerization many properties of cotton fabric is
improved, some of them are mentioned below:
           •   Increases fabric strength
           •   Increases absorbency power
           •   Increases fabric luster
           •   Increases fabric softness and handle property
           •   Reduces dye consumption
           •   Reduces chemical consumption in dyeing


Two types of machines are used at Bharat Vijay Mills:
    Chain system
    Cylinder system


Objective:
    Increases lusture
    Strength
    Affinity to dye
    Resistance to mild dew
    Lint reduction


Mercerization of fabrics is performed using NaOH(22- 25%)
Tension is applied to the fabrics in the vertical direction with a tension cylinder, and in
the horizontal direction with a clip tenter.
The processing time by the cylinder and the tenter in total is 30 to 60 seconds.
NaOH applied in impregnator and temperature kept low(15-20degrees) for luster.
Then fabric washed in hot wash in 4 chambers.
Mercerized fabric is then dried.
Speed of machine – 40-50 m/min


                                           DYEING

Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth
or garment form by treatment with a dye.

FABRIC DYEING (piece dyeing)

In piece dyeing, which is used primarily for fabrics that are to be a solid color, a
continuous length of dry cloth is passed full-width through a trough of hot dye solution.
The cloth then goes between padded rollers that squeeze in the color evenly and
removes the excess liquid. In one variation of this basic method, the fabric, in a rope-
like coil, is processed on a reel that passes in and out of a dye beck or vat.


Types of dyeing

The following are the basic types of fabric dyeing machines:


1) Batch dyeing machine

2) Semi-continuous dyeing machine

3) Continuous dyeing machine

1) Batch dyeing

Batch Dyeing Process is the most popular and common method used for dyeing of
textile materials. Batch dyeing is also sometimes referred to as Exhaust dyeing. This is
because in this process, the dye gets slowly transferred from a comparatively large
volume dyebath to the substrate or material that is to be dyed. The time taken is also
longer. The dye is meant to 'exhaust' from dyebath to the substrate. In batch processes,
textile substrates can be easily dyed at any stage of their assembly into the desired
textile product. This includes fiber, yarn, fabric or garment. Some type of batch dyeing
machines can function at temperatures only up to 1000oC. For example cotton, rayon,
nylon, wool etc. can be dyed at 1000oC or lower temperatures. While polyester and
some other synthetic fibers are dyed at 1000 Centigrade or even higher temperatures.
There are three general types of batch dyeing machines. The first type is the one where
there is circulation of fabric. Second type is the one where the dyebath gets circulated
while the material that is being dyed remains stationary, and finally the third type where
both the bath and material to be dyed gets circulated.

The following are the types of batch dyeing processes:

1)Beck dyeing

2)   Jet   dyeing(soft     flow     dyeing
machine)

3) Jigger dyeing machine




Image showing Popular machines
utilizing the batch dyeing method
illustrated above.



For any dyers the ultimate dream is to
get the maximum out of the process
of dyeing, at minimal cost. For a batch
dyeing     process       the      following
techniques can prove to be effective
for optimum utilization.
   Use machinery that are fitted with latest state-of-the-art automatic controllers of
      fill volume, temperature and other dyeing cycle parameters, indirect system of
      cooling and heating, innovative hoods and doors that lessens vapour losses.

     Choosing the machinery that is exactly sized for the batch that needs to be
      processed. Also confirmation that it is operated exactly within the specified range
      of nominal liquor ratios for which it is designed. It has been seen that machines
      that are operated with a consistent liquor ratio while being loaded at 60 percent
      level of their nominal capacity gives optimum results. With yarn dyeing machines
      this level can stretch to even 30% of the nominal capacity.

     Opting new machineries that adheres to the following requirements:
         o Liquor ratio that is low-or-ultra-low.
         o Complete in process separation of bath from substrate.
         o Mechanism that involves smooth internal separation of process liquor from
             the washing liquor.
         o Mechanical liquor extraction that brings the carry-over to minimum and
             improves washing efficiency.
         o A reduced cycle duration.
     Replacement of conventional overflow-flood rinsing method with methods like
      drain and fill or other methods (for example smart rinsing for fabric).

     Proper re-use of rinsed water for the next dyeing session.

     Re-use of the dye bath if technical considerations allows.

      At Bharat Vijay Mills, the following machines were used for batch dyeing:

(i)Jigger dyeing machine

     Fabric is dyed in its open or full
      width and hence there is no problem
      of creasing during dyeing.
     The machine consists of a small tub
      and two drawing rollers located
      above the dye bath.
     First the fabric is wound around one
      of the rollers. During dyeing the
fabric is passed though the dye bath and rewound onto the second roller.
        When the complete fabric is passed though the bath, the direction of fabric
         movement is reversed and this is repeated until the fabric is dyed completely.
        During dyeing, tension is imparted along the length of the fabric.
        Suitable for light weight and delicate fabrics.
        Liquor ratio is low(1:2 to 1:6)
        Used for dyeing fabric in small lots.
        Contact time between fabric and dye liquor is more in jigger than other dyeing
         machines.

    At BHARAT VIJAY MILLS:

        No. of machines – 5(200 kg – 1 machine, 800kg – 4 machine)
        Maximum speed – 100m/min

(ii) Soft flow dyeing machine

In this machine the fabric being dyed is
circulated through the dyeing machine on a
jet flow of dye bath. The high speed dye
liquor jet carries the fabric rope along, from
one end of dye vessel to the other end.

Less water,energy,time and chemicals are
required in this machine as compared to
other dyeing machine.

It is used for dyeing of delicate woven or
knits, textured and light weight fabrics.

The liquor ratio is very low(1:1)


At BHARAT VIJAY MILLS:

        No. of machines – 1
        Model – fong’s
   Fabric cycle time 1 to 10 min.*
      Chamber capacity 100 to 300 kg*
      Speed of water – 600 rpm


2) Semi continuous dyeing
In the process of semi-continuous dyeing that consists of pad-batch, pad-jig, pad-roll the
fabric is first impregnated with the dye-liquor in, what is called a padding machine. Then
it is subjected to batch wise treatment in a jigger. It could also be stored with a slow
rotation for many hours. In the pad-batch this treatment is done at room temperature
while in pad-roll it is done at increased temperature by employing a heating chamber.
This helps in fixation of the dyes on to the fibre. After this fixation process, the material
in full width is thoroughly cleansed and rinsed in continuous washing machines. There is
only one point of difference between Continuous and semi-continuous dyeing process is
that in semi-continuous dyeing, the dye is applied continuously by a padding. The
fixation and washing remaining discontinuous. Liquor Ratio in semi-continuous dyeing is
not of much importance and is not taken as a parameter. One of the widely used
techniques for semi-continuous dyeing process is the Pad Batch Dyeing a schematic
diagram     is    given     here     for    the    semi-continuous      dyeing      process.




The following table shows some of the important machineries for semi-continuous and
continuous dyeing processes.


    Pad batch dyeing

Pad Batch Dyeing is one of the widely used technique for semi-continuous dyeing
process. It is mainly used in the dyeing of cellulosic fibre like cotton or viscose (knit and
woven fabric) with reactive dyes. Pad batch dyeing is a textile dyeing process that offers
some unique advantages in the form of versatility, simplicity, and flexibility and a
substantial reduction in capital investment for equipment. It is primarily a cold method
that is the reason why it is sometimes referred to as the cold pad batch dyeing.


       Working of a cold dyeing process

The technique or process used in pad-batch
dyeing starts with saturating first the prepared
fabric with pre-mixed dye liquor. Then it is
passed through rollers. The rollers, or padders,
effectively forces the dyestuff into the fabric. In
the process, excess dye solution is also
removed. After removal of excess dye stuff the
fabric is subsequently "batched". This batching
is done by either storing it in rolls or in boxes. It
takes a minimum of 4-12 hours. The batches
are generally enclosed by plastic films. This
prevents absorption of carbon dioxide and water evaporation. Finally as the reaction is
complete the fabrics are washed. This is done by becks, beams, or any other washing
devices.


       Special features of pad batch dyeing process

      Significant cost and waste reduction as compared to other conventional dyeing
       processes.

      Total elimination of the need for salt and other specialty chemicals. For example
       there is no need for anti-migrants, leveling agents and fixatives that are
       necessary in conventional dyebaths.
    Optimum utilisation of dyes that eliminates specialty chemicals, cuts down
        chemical costs and waste loads in the effluent. All this results in a formidable
        reduction in wastewater treatment costs.

       Excellent wet fastness properties.

       Pad batch dyeing cuts energy and water consumption owing to low bath ratio
        (dye:water) required for the process. This is because unlike other dyeing
        processes it does not function at high temperatures.

       A uniform dye quality is achieved with even color absorbency and colour
        fastness.

       As compared to rope dyeing, Pad batch dyeing produces much lower defect
        levels.

       In pad batch dyeing, qualities like high shade reliability and repeatability are
        common. This is because of high reactivity dyes with rapid fixation rate and
        stability.

       Lastly Pad batch dyeing can also improve product quality. The fabric undergoing
        the cold pad batch dyeing process is able to retain an uniformly coloured
        appearance. It shows added luster and gives a gentle feel. The fabric gives a
        brighter look in shades.

        No. of machines in the mill: 3


3) Continuous dyeing
The working of a continuous dyeing process is described here. The textile substrates
are feeded continuously into a dye range. The speeds can vary between 50 to 250
meters per minute. According to Industry estimates Continuous dyeing is a popular
dyeing method and accounts for around 60% of total yardage of the products that are
dyed.
A Continuous dyeing process typically consists the following. Dye application, dye
fixation with heat or chemicals and finally washing. Continuous dyeing has been found
to be most suitable for woven fabrics. Mostly continuous dye ranges are designed for
dyeing blends of polyester and cotton. The step of padding plays a key role in the
operation of continuous dyeing. Sometimes Nylon carpets are also dyed in continuous
processes, but the design ranges for them is unlike that for flat fabrics. Warps are also
dyed in continuous process. Very good examples of such warp dyeing are long chain
warp         dyeing         and        slasher         dyeing         using         indigo.


A continuous dye range has been found useful and economically sustainable for dyeing
long runs of a given shade. One important factor that separates continuous dyeing from
batch dyeing is the tolerance factor for color variation. That is more for continuous
dyeing as compared to batch dyeing. This is so because of two reasons a) the speed of
the process. b) presence of a large number of process variables which affects dye
application. The process that is illustrated below is designed for dyeing of blended fabric
of polyester and cotton.
Some of the popular methods in continuous dyeing process are Pad-steam, Wet-steam,
thermosol dyeing, TAK dyeing, space dyeing, and pad-steam dyeing long chain warp
dyeing etc.




Process
Continuous and to some extent semi-continuous dyeing processes both are less prone
to water consumption than batch dyeing, but results in high concentration of residues. If
some strict control measures are taken up it is possible to reduce this losses of
concentrated liquor. The following steps may prove useful.

      Applying low add-on liquor application systems along with minimising of volume
       capacity of the dip through when pad dyeing techniques are in operation.

      Adoption of latest dispensing systems, where the chemicals get dispensed on-
       line as separate streams. They gets mixed only at the moment just before the
       delivery to the applicator.

      Using any of the following systems for dosing of the padding liquor. Important to
       know that it should be strictly according to the measurement of the pick up:
          o   A proper measurement of the dyeing liquor quantity consumption in
              comparison to the processed fabric. The resulting values thus obtained
              are processed automatically and applied in preparing the next comparable
              batch.

          o   Application of the technique of rapid batch dyeing. Here the dyestuff
              solution is prepared just in time, with steps that are based on on-line
              measurement of the pick up. This proves better than those dyestuff that is
              kept prepared already for the whole batch before the commencement of
              the dyeing batch.
   To increase washing efficiency based on the proven principles like reduction of
       carry-over and counter-current washing.

At Bharat Vijay Mills, the following continuous dyeing machines were used:

(i) Pad dry dyeing machine

No. of machines at BVM – 1

Machine model – kusters calico machinery

DYE BATH
   Dye =10 g/l
   Antimigrant =10 g/l
   Reduction inhibitor =10 g/l
CHEMICAL RECIPE
   Caustic soda (48 Be) = 4-8 g/l
   Soda ash = 10 g/l
   Salt = 250 g/l
   PROCEDURE
      Prepare dye bath and auxiliary bath separately.
      Pad the fabric in dye bath at 60 - 70 % pick up and then dry the fabric.
      Then again pad the dyed piece of fabric in chemical bath at 80 % pick up and put
       it in steam for 1.5 min.


   (ii)   Pad steam dyeing machine
          No. of machines at BVM – 1
          Machine model – kusters calico machinery

RECIPE
   Dye = 10 g/l
   Glaubar salt =10 g /l
   Soda ash = 15 g/l
Reduction inhibitor = 10 g/l
PROCEDURE

     Pad the fabric in dye bath at 60 – 70 % pick up.
     Then steam the fabric for 1- 2 min

WASHING
  Cold wash 30 – 40 ° C
  Warm wash 50 – 60 ° C
  Soaping with detergent 2g/l detergent at 90 -100 ° C
  Warm wash at 50 -60 ° C
  Cold wash 30 -40 ° C
TESTING
                 QUALITY CONTROL AND INSPECTION

Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality increases the
value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds up good reputation for
the fabric manufacturer, which in turn results into consumer satisfaction, high sales and
foreign exchange for the country. The perceived quality of a fabric is the result of a
number of aspects, which together help achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the
customer. Therefore quality control in terms of garment, pre-sales service, posts –sales
service, delivery, pricing, etc are essentials for any fabric manufacturer.


Quality control at BHARAT VIJAY MILLS

At Bharat Vijay Mills, quality control commences from raw material procurement. They
use eco-friendly dyes and chemicals that are sourced from reputed companies. Their
fully computerized quality-control laboratory checks everything from fibre to fabric to
chemicals, dyes and auxiliaries.



AATCC (American Association of textile chemist and colorist) and ASTM
(American society for testing and materials) standards are followed at Bharat Vijay
mills for quality control and testing of fabrics.

4 – Point inspection system was followed for inspection of fabrics.

This numeric grading system is endorsed by the American Society for Testing and
Materials (ASTM), The American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and the
European Clothing Manufacturing Association (ECMA).
Length of defects (in inches)                            Points

                   < 3”                                           1

                  3”to 6”                                         2

                 6” to 9”                                         3

                   > 9”                                           4



      Diameter of holes (in inches)                           Points

                   <1                                            2

                   >= 1                                          4




Points calculation in 4 point system:



Defect points per sq. meter =                    total points X 10,000

                                          (Fabric width in cms X total length
                                          inspected in meters)



  •   Maximum no. of points in any one linear yard is 4 regardless of no. of defects.

  •   Grading irrespective of end use

  •   Not sensitive to width variations of the fabric

  •   Does not consider defects in inconspicuous areas (patterns/markers)

  •   No standard viewing conditions
Fabric defects

Askewed or Bias: condition where filling yarns are not square with warp yarns on
woven fabrics or where courses are not square with wale lines on knits.


Bowing: Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lien in an arc across fabric
width.


Broken Color Pattern: Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame.


Crease Streak: Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing through
squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.


Jerk-in: caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by
the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage.


Knots: caused by tying spools of yarn together.


Missing Yarn: Occurs in warp knit. Reuslts from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn)
placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have
different affinity for dye.


Mixed End (yarn): Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame, resulting in a
streak in the fabric


Open Reed: results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held apart,
exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns
on warp and shuttle


Pin Holes: Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes
through tenter frame.
Puckered Selvage: Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or by
uneven wetting out in sanforization process


Sanforize Pucker: Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; usually caused by
defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting
table. Difficult to detect while inspecting on inspection machine with fabric under roller
tension.


Scrimp: the result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through tenter
frames.


Slub: usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be
caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in
the spinning process.


Smash: caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired.


Soiled Filling or End: Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or on
packaged-dyed yarn.


Stop Mark: when the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when the loom
starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.


Thin Place: Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run
until the operator notices the problem


Types of testing in Bharat Vijay Mills:

FIBER TESTING:
Raw material represents about 50 to 70% of the production cost of a short-staple yarn.
This fact is sufficient to indicate the significance of the rawmaterial for the yarn
producer. It is not possible to use a problem-free raw material always , because cotton
is a natural fibre and there are many properties which will affect the performance.

The basic chareteristics of cotton fibre

             Fibre length                                      Maturity
             Fineness                                          Rigidity
             Strength


YARN TESTING:
Yarn occupies the intermediate position in the manufacture of fabric from raw material.
Yarn results are therefore essential, both for estimating the quality of rawmaterial and
for controlling the quality of fabric produced.

The important characteristics of yarn being tested are:

      Yarn twist                                        Yarn elongation
      Linear density                                    Yarn evenness
      Yarn strength                                     Yarn hairness



FABRIC TESTING:
The textile industry is becoming an increasingly competitive environment. Differentiating
products is therefore important and this can be facilitated through improving quality.
Testing can be used to improve product quality and achieve compliance to international,
regional or retailer specific standards.

Various testing instruments in Bharat Vijay Mills:
   1) Cotton testing machine – Uster               6) Cotton trash analyzer
      HVI 900
                                                   7) Trash separator
   2) Count strength product(CSP)
                                                   8) Fabric Strength tester
   3) Single yarn strength tester
                                                   9) GSM tester
   4) Uniformity tester-Uster tester-4-
      SX                                           10) Wrap reel

   5) Fault Tester – Uster classimat – 3           11) Yarn twist tester

                                                   12) Tearing tester
Cotton testing machine – Uster HVI 900:
It is used to determine the fibre length, length uniformity
and short fibre index

      Monitoring the fibre length is essential to producing
       yarn that meets your quality needs.
      The USTER FIBROSAMPLER measures properties
       of fibre samples taken from bales and card mat.
      Because interrelationships between fibre properties
       dictate that long cottons are also strong cottons,
       fibre length has a substantial impact on yarn
       evenness, yarn strength, and spinnability.



Single yarn strength tester:
    Technical Specifications

    Tensile strength and elongation are the two prime
    characteristics of most of the raw materials.

    Technical Data :

          Capacity Of The Tester : 5 Kg, Acc. 1 g, 30
           Kg, Acc. 5 g
          Speed Of Traverse : 300 mm/min.
          Motor : ¼ H.P. 230 volts AC.
          Gripping Distance : Minimum – 8” and
           Maximum -20”
          Elongation : 80 – 100%
          Over Load Safety : Provided
Uniformity tester - Uster tester-4-SX

To check the slightest deviation in evenness of yarn.

      The USTER TESTER-4-SX is an indispensable instrument for quality control of
       filament yarns and has long become a synonym for the highest precision
       standards.
      Even the smallest fluctuation in evenness is very important in filament yarns, and
       this makes the difference between profitable and non-profitable production.
      The spectrogram of the capacitive measurement makes every periodical fault in
       the spinning machine and the spinning process immediately visible.
      Test speeds of up to 800 m/min is ensured.



Fault Tester – Uster classimat – 3

To measure the yarn faults.

        It checks for cleared and unclear yarn, providing perfect classification of thick
         and thin places, as well as checking infrequently occurring yarn defects.
        Determining infrequently occurring yarn faults in 23 classes.
        Monitoring yarn counts, measurement of length and weight.
        Compare your measuring results with the
         international quality benchmarks directly on the
         screen. This way, you always have your desired
         quality standard under control.



Cotton trash analyzer:

This Trash Analyser is well known and well proven
machine in the Textile Industry for many decades and
established its maintenance free performance in
determining the Trash and contamination content in any type of cotton and established
its fact as more suitable for industrial Purpose in Cotton Textile Mills.


Fabric Strength tester:

This instrument is a robust motor driven floor
model machine which records breaking strength
and elongation at break point with graph facility.




GSM tester:

Sample cutters are designed to cut fabric samples to determine the GSM. Sample cutter
is applicable to Woven, Knitted & Non-Woven Fabrics.


          Sample cutter is used to determine accurately the GSM (Grams per
           square meter) of any type of fabrics.
          Ergonomic latest design with modern
           aesthetics.
          Smooth precision engineered
           components for excellent performance.
          Stainless steel blade holders for lifelong
           excellent operations.
          Complete with all accessories along with
           four special rubberized foam cutting pad
           for smooth cutting & long life of the
           blades & two sets of cutting blades.
          Weight: 1.7 Kgs
          Dimension:
Diameter             Height

           160 mm             110 mm

          6.25 inch           4.3 inch

Wrap reel:

     Used to make lea of yarn.
     Digital control panel with resettable revolution counter.
     Supplied with a wheels-1mtr or 1.5yds perimeter.
     Bobbin holding stand can accommodate bobbins dia up to 100mm.
     Five leas can be made
      together.
     Complete with all
      accessories.




Yarn twist tester:

         Single yarn twist tester used to make lea of yarn.
         Smooth precision engineered components for excellent performance.
         Supplied with a wheels-1mtr or
          1.5yds perimeter.
         Bobbin holding stand can
          accommodate bobbins dia up to
          100mm.
         Five leas can be made together.
         Complete with all accessories.
Tearing tester :

          Tearing strength tester to determine tearing strength of knitted and
           woven fabrics.
          Capacity up to 6.400Kgs.
          With adjustable cutting knife.
          Having three variable capacity 1.600kg,
           3.200kg & 6.400kg for different type of
           fabrics.
          Latest design with modern
           sophisticated look.
          Complete with accessories including
           three calibration weights.




DYEING LAB
   1) DATA COLOR DISPENSER

   2) YARN DYEING MACHINE

   3) COLOR COMPUTER MATCHING

   4) COLOR MATCHING MACHINE:



DATA COLOR DISPENSER:

It is design for Textile Laboratory where speed accuracy and repeatability are the
primary focus.
Features:

          Accurate temperature sensor and controller ensures that the hot water is
             always at the required temperature
          Anti-wind doors ensures that the accuracy of the preparation of solutions
             is not affected by external influences
          Moveable dispense head allows easy addition of dyestuff to the solution
             bottles, and also allows the use of different size bottles
          Automatic hot water and cold water tank refill valves ensures that supply
             of water is always readily available
          The use of 4 dispense valves, 3 cold water and 1 hot water, ensures fast
             preparation of the solutions
          A small footprint ensures the system does not take up a large amount of
             laboratory space
          Spacious dispense area ensures easy access to the solution bottles for
             the addition of dyestuffs or chemicals
          More accurate solutions
          Precise weighing of dyestuffs up to 1000th of a decimal
          Automated, error-free procedures.


COLOR COMPUTER MATCHING:

The basic three things are important in CCMS:

   1. Color measurement Instrument (Spectrophotometers).
   2. Reflectance (R%) from a mixture of Dyes or Pigments applied in a specific way.
   3. Optical model of color vision to closeness of the color matching.
Functions of Computer Color Matching System:

   1. Color match prediction.                       6. Cost Comparison.
   2. Color difference calculation.                 7. Strength evaluation of dyes.
   3. Determine metamerism.                         8. Whiteness indices.
   4. Pass/Fail option.                             9. Reflectance curve and K/S curve.
   5. Color –fastness rating.                       10. Production of Shade library. Etc.




Advantages of Computer Color Matching System (CCMS)

Computer Color Matching System (CCMS) has lots of great advantages in Textile
Industry.

   1. Customers get the exact shade wanted with his knowledge of degree of
       metamerism.
   2. Customers often have a choice of 10-20 formulation that will match color. By
       taking costing, availability of dyes, and auxiliaries into account, one can choose a
       best swatch.
   3. 3 to 300 times faster than manual color matching.
   4. Limited range of stock color needed.


Colour Matching Machine:

Colour Matching Machine is designed to evaluate the colour matching of fabrics, yarns
or any coloured materials. Color Matching machine checks matching under a standard
light source in a closed environment to minimize the interference of external lights



Fastness testing equipments:

   1) Crock Meter                                   3) Launderometer

   2) Light fastness tester                         4) Perspirometer
Crock Meter:

          Crock Meter is used to determine the Colour Fastness of Textiles to Dry
           or Wet Rubbing as per ISO/AATCC Standards.
          Ergonomic design of crock meter
           which meets ISO/AATCC
           requirements.
          Steel Sample Holder for rapid sample
           mounting.
          Mechanical type, re-settable Counter.
          Light in weight for mobility.
          Complete with all accessories including 1000 crocking clothes of
           ISO/AATCC,
          Supplied With Inspection and Calibration Certificate.



Light fastness tester:

   A test specimen together with blue wool standards is exposed to the light from a
   MBTL fading Lamp. The Colour Fastness of the
   specimen is assessed by comparing its fastness
   with that of 1 – 8 Blue Wool Standards.

   Equipment :

   Digital light fastness teser consists of a hollow
   cylinder of metal open at both ends with an
   internal diameter of 18” and length of 18”. A 500
   W MBTL fading lamp is mounted centrally so that
   the light distribution is constant around the
   circumference. An hour meter with buzzer and hour totalizer are mounted on the
   base. Four specimen holders are installed at equidistance in inner
   circumference of cylinder alongwith metal sheet mask to cover half of each test
specimen and the standards. As temperature may touch 800 C constant cooling
   arrangement with water flow is provided. A horizontal pump and water tank are
   included in scope of supply.

   Testing Standards Required :

         1 to 8 Blue Wool Light Fastness Standard of ISO
         Grey Scale of Change in Colour of ISO




Launderometer:

         Micro processor based temp control and
          timer.
         40 RPM
         Heating Medium Water (99°C max)
         Available with 8 beakers of 500ml: and
          also as per custom design.




Perspirometer:

     Perspiration tester to determine colorfastness to
      perspiration.
     Ergonomic latest design with modern aesthetics.
     Smooth precision engineered components for
      excellent performance.
Bharat Vijay Mills Winter Internship Report 2011
Bharat Vijay Mills Winter Internship Report 2011
Bharat Vijay Mills Winter Internship Report 2011
Bharat Vijay Mills Winter Internship Report 2011
Bharat Vijay Mills Winter Internship Report 2011
Bharat Vijay Mills Winter Internship Report 2011

Mais conteúdo relacionado

Mais procurados

APPAREL QUALITY STANDARD AND IMPLEMENTATION
APPAREL QUALITY STANDARD AND IMPLEMENTATIONAPPAREL QUALITY STANDARD AND IMPLEMENTATION
APPAREL QUALITY STANDARD AND IMPLEMENTATIONGOPALAKRISHNAN DURAISAMY
 
Industrial training report
Industrial training reportIndustrial training report
Industrial training reportRajaKrishnan M
 
Textile internship - Raymonds
Textile internship - Raymonds Textile internship - Raymonds
Textile internship - Raymonds Swarnim Singh
 
Report Of Spinning Mill (Resham textile industry limited)
Report Of Spinning Mill (Resham textile industry limited)Report Of Spinning Mill (Resham textile industry limited)
Report Of Spinning Mill (Resham textile industry limited)kashif ayaz
 
Internship Report on Garments Merchandising
Internship Report on Garments MerchandisingInternship Report on Garments Merchandising
Internship Report on Garments MerchandisingAasif Arafat
 
Indian Textile Industry
Indian Textile Industry Indian Textile Industry
Indian Textile Industry Subhash Gupta
 
Internship report on sb knitting ltd
Internship report on sb knitting ltdInternship report on sb knitting ltd
Internship report on sb knitting ltdSH Nayeem
 
Saurabh internship report Welspun India Ltd, Mumbai TEXTILE
Saurabh internship report Welspun India Ltd, Mumbai TEXTILESaurabh internship report Welspun India Ltd, Mumbai TEXTILE
Saurabh internship report Welspun India Ltd, Mumbai TEXTILESaurabh Singhvi
 
Industrial Attachment on Chandra Spinning Mills Ltd.
Industrial Attachment on Chandra Spinning Mills Ltd.Industrial Attachment on Chandra Spinning Mills Ltd.
Industrial Attachment on Chandra Spinning Mills Ltd.Amanuzzaman Aman
 
Saurabh internship report welspun
Saurabh internship report welspunSaurabh internship report welspun
Saurabh internship report welspunSaurabh Singhvi
 
Organogram & layout of a spinning mill
Organogram & layout of a spinning mill Organogram & layout of a spinning mill
Organogram & layout of a spinning mill Didarulislam31
 
Textile industry ppt strategic management
Textile industry ppt strategic managementTextile industry ppt strategic management
Textile industry ppt strategic managementPrasanth Sai
 
Garment Industry
Garment IndustryGarment Industry
Garment IndustryAnju Merin
 
Industrial visit(spinning mills)
Industrial visit(spinning mills) Industrial visit(spinning mills)
Industrial visit(spinning mills) Muzahid Lum
 
Apparel internship
Apparel internshipApparel internship
Apparel internshipAnurag Singh
 

Mais procurados (20)

APPAREL QUALITY STANDARD AND IMPLEMENTATION
APPAREL QUALITY STANDARD AND IMPLEMENTATIONAPPAREL QUALITY STANDARD AND IMPLEMENTATION
APPAREL QUALITY STANDARD AND IMPLEMENTATION
 
Industrial training report
Industrial training reportIndustrial training report
Industrial training report
 
Textile internship - Raymonds
Textile internship - Raymonds Textile internship - Raymonds
Textile internship - Raymonds
 
Textiles Industry
Textiles IndustryTextiles Industry
Textiles Industry
 
Textile internship report
Textile internship reportTextile internship report
Textile internship report
 
Arvind mills
Arvind millsArvind mills
Arvind mills
 
Report Of Spinning Mill (Resham textile industry limited)
Report Of Spinning Mill (Resham textile industry limited)Report Of Spinning Mill (Resham textile industry limited)
Report Of Spinning Mill (Resham textile industry limited)
 
Internship Report on Garments Merchandising
Internship Report on Garments MerchandisingInternship Report on Garments Merchandising
Internship Report on Garments Merchandising
 
Indian Textile Industry
Indian Textile Industry Indian Textile Industry
Indian Textile Industry
 
Internship report on sb knitting ltd
Internship report on sb knitting ltdInternship report on sb knitting ltd
Internship report on sb knitting ltd
 
Saurabh internship report Welspun India Ltd, Mumbai TEXTILE
Saurabh internship report Welspun India Ltd, Mumbai TEXTILESaurabh internship report Welspun India Ltd, Mumbai TEXTILE
Saurabh internship report Welspun India Ltd, Mumbai TEXTILE
 
Industrial Attachment on Chandra Spinning Mills Ltd.
Industrial Attachment on Chandra Spinning Mills Ltd.Industrial Attachment on Chandra Spinning Mills Ltd.
Industrial Attachment on Chandra Spinning Mills Ltd.
 
Saurabh internship report welspun
Saurabh internship report welspunSaurabh internship report welspun
Saurabh internship report welspun
 
Organogram & layout of a spinning mill
Organogram & layout of a spinning mill Organogram & layout of a spinning mill
Organogram & layout of a spinning mill
 
Arvind mills
Arvind millsArvind mills
Arvind mills
 
Textile industry ppt strategic management
Textile industry ppt strategic managementTextile industry ppt strategic management
Textile industry ppt strategic management
 
Garment Industry
Garment IndustryGarment Industry
Garment Industry
 
Industrial visit(spinning mills)
Industrial visit(spinning mills) Industrial visit(spinning mills)
Industrial visit(spinning mills)
 
Raymond limited
Raymond limitedRaymond limited
Raymond limited
 
Apparel internship
Apparel internshipApparel internship
Apparel internship
 

Destaque

intrenship Report
intrenship Reportintrenship Report
intrenship ReportWaly Guy
 
Winter Internship Report.
Winter Internship Report.Winter Internship Report.
Winter Internship Report.Ahana Sarkar
 
Raw material of weaving-BSL
Raw material of weaving-BSLRaw material of weaving-BSL
Raw material of weaving-BSLRajeev Sharan
 
HVI (High Volume Instrument )
HVI (High Volume Instrument )HVI (High Volume Instrument )
HVI (High Volume Instrument )Nayeem Pub
 
Final document interns-BSL
Final document interns-BSLFinal document interns-BSL
Final document interns-BSLRajeev Sharan
 
Global country report
Global country report Global country report
Global country report Jean Shah
 
Ambika Cotton Mills Limited - Equity Research Report
Ambika Cotton Mills Limited - Equity Research ReportAmbika Cotton Mills Limited - Equity Research Report
Ambika Cotton Mills Limited - Equity Research ReportDr. Vijay Malik
 
Technical textiles weaves new opportunity to Entrepreneurhip
Technical textiles weaves new opportunity to Entrepreneurhip Technical textiles weaves new opportunity to Entrepreneurhip
Technical textiles weaves new opportunity to Entrepreneurhip ashokpal sathiyanathan
 
DG Fashion cost analysis - ABC
DG Fashion cost analysis - ABCDG Fashion cost analysis - ABC
DG Fashion cost analysis - ABCDulakshi Ranadeera
 
Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltd
Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltdJaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltd
Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltdKumar Sumit
 
Industrial attachment of evince textiles limited
Industrial  attachment  of  evince textiles limitedIndustrial  attachment  of  evince textiles limited
Industrial attachment of evince textiles limitedMd. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
 
Study on Lean, Quality Implementation and Waste Management in Textile Mill
Study on Lean, Quality Implementation and Waste Management in Textile MillStudy on Lean, Quality Implementation and Waste Management in Textile Mill
Study on Lean, Quality Implementation and Waste Management in Textile MillAkshay Thakur
 
I ndustrial attachment of apex spinning and kniting mills ltd.
I ndustrial attachment of apex spinning and kniting mills ltd.I ndustrial attachment of apex spinning and kniting mills ltd.
I ndustrial attachment of apex spinning and kniting mills ltd.Md. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
 
Lecture 5 dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes
Lecture 5 dyeing of cotton with reactive dyesLecture 5 dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes
Lecture 5 dyeing of cotton with reactive dyesAdane Nega
 
Flow chart of manufacturing of dyes
Flow chart of manufacturing of dyes Flow chart of manufacturing of dyes
Flow chart of manufacturing of dyes Azmir Latif Beg
 

Destaque (20)

Internship report
Internship reportInternship report
Internship report
 
intrenship Report
intrenship Reportintrenship Report
intrenship Report
 
raj Textile project
raj Textile projectraj Textile project
raj Textile project
 
Hvi 1000
Hvi 1000Hvi 1000
Hvi 1000
 
Winter Internship Report.
Winter Internship Report.Winter Internship Report.
Winter Internship Report.
 
WEAVING
WEAVINGWEAVING
WEAVING
 
Raw material of weaving-BSL
Raw material of weaving-BSLRaw material of weaving-BSL
Raw material of weaving-BSL
 
HVI (High Volume Instrument )
HVI (High Volume Instrument )HVI (High Volume Instrument )
HVI (High Volume Instrument )
 
Final document interns-BSL
Final document interns-BSLFinal document interns-BSL
Final document interns-BSL
 
Global country report
Global country report Global country report
Global country report
 
Ambika Cotton Mills Limited - Equity Research Report
Ambika Cotton Mills Limited - Equity Research ReportAmbika Cotton Mills Limited - Equity Research Report
Ambika Cotton Mills Limited - Equity Research Report
 
Technical textiles weaves new opportunity to Entrepreneurhip
Technical textiles weaves new opportunity to Entrepreneurhip Technical textiles weaves new opportunity to Entrepreneurhip
Technical textiles weaves new opportunity to Entrepreneurhip
 
DG Fashion cost analysis - ABC
DG Fashion cost analysis - ABCDG Fashion cost analysis - ABC
DG Fashion cost analysis - ABC
 
Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltd
Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltdJaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltd
Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltd
 
Arvind mills
Arvind millsArvind mills
Arvind mills
 
Industrial attachment of evince textiles limited
Industrial  attachment  of  evince textiles limitedIndustrial  attachment  of  evince textiles limited
Industrial attachment of evince textiles limited
 
Study on Lean, Quality Implementation and Waste Management in Textile Mill
Study on Lean, Quality Implementation and Waste Management in Textile MillStudy on Lean, Quality Implementation and Waste Management in Textile Mill
Study on Lean, Quality Implementation and Waste Management in Textile Mill
 
I ndustrial attachment of apex spinning and kniting mills ltd.
I ndustrial attachment of apex spinning and kniting mills ltd.I ndustrial attachment of apex spinning and kniting mills ltd.
I ndustrial attachment of apex spinning and kniting mills ltd.
 
Lecture 5 dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes
Lecture 5 dyeing of cotton with reactive dyesLecture 5 dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes
Lecture 5 dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes
 
Flow chart of manufacturing of dyes
Flow chart of manufacturing of dyes Flow chart of manufacturing of dyes
Flow chart of manufacturing of dyes
 

Semelhante a Bharat Vijay Mills Winter Internship Report 2011

Industrial attachment of givensee group of industries ltd.
Industrial attachment of givensee group of industries ltd.Industrial attachment of givensee group of industries ltd.
Industrial attachment of givensee group of industries ltd.Md. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
 
Knit Finishing in Arvind Ltd. bY Anupam Vowmic, created by Manojit Barman
Knit Finishing in Arvind Ltd. bY Anupam Vowmic,  created by Manojit Barman Knit Finishing in Arvind Ltd. bY Anupam Vowmic,  created by Manojit Barman
Knit Finishing in Arvind Ltd. bY Anupam Vowmic, created by Manojit Barman MANOJIT BARMAN
 
Presentation-of-ETL Hasan Syead.pptx
Presentation-of-ETL Hasan Syead.pptxPresentation-of-ETL Hasan Syead.pptx
Presentation-of-ETL Hasan Syead.pptxhasansyeadbuft
 
Industrial Attachment of Interstoff apparels limited
Industrial Attachment of Interstoff apparels limitedIndustrial Attachment of Interstoff apparels limited
Industrial Attachment of Interstoff apparels limitedMd. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
 
Sewbot clothing manufacturing
Sewbot clothing manufacturingSewbot clothing manufacturing
Sewbot clothing manufacturingArpita Pari
 
Nishat Group Pvt-1 (1)
Nishat Group Pvt-1 (1)Nishat Group Pvt-1 (1)
Nishat Group Pvt-1 (1)Abdul Majid
 
Presentation of epyllion group
Presentation of epyllion groupPresentation of epyllion group
Presentation of epyllion groupMd Ashraf Ali
 
Industrial attachment of square knits fabrics limited (SKFL)
Industrial  attachment  of square knits fabrics limited (SKFL)Industrial  attachment  of square knits fabrics limited (SKFL)
Industrial attachment of square knits fabrics limited (SKFL)Md. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
 
Mill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan Jany
Mill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan JanyMill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan Jany
Mill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan JanyMd. Rafsan Jany
 
Industrial attachment of epyllion knitex ltd
Industrial  attachment  of  epyllion knitex ltdIndustrial  attachment  of  epyllion knitex ltd
Industrial attachment of epyllion knitex ltdMd. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
 
TEXTILE PROCESS TRANING REPORT
TEXTILE PROCESS  TRANING REPORT TEXTILE PROCESS  TRANING REPORT
TEXTILE PROCESS TRANING REPORT ROHIT SINGH
 
Alok industries
Alok industriesAlok industries
Alok industriessumit235
 

Semelhante a Bharat Vijay Mills Winter Internship Report 2011 (20)

Noman weaving mills ltd
Noman weaving mills ltdNoman weaving mills ltd
Noman weaving mills ltd
 
Industrial attachment of givensee group of industries ltd.
Industrial attachment of givensee group of industries ltd.Industrial attachment of givensee group of industries ltd.
Industrial attachment of givensee group of industries ltd.
 
Industrial Attachment on Fakir Knitwear Limited
Industrial Attachment on Fakir Knitwear LimitedIndustrial Attachment on Fakir Knitwear Limited
Industrial Attachment on Fakir Knitwear Limited
 
Part 1
Part 1Part 1
Part 1
 
Knit Finishing in Arvind Ltd. bY Anupam Vowmic, created by Manojit Barman
Knit Finishing in Arvind Ltd. bY Anupam Vowmic,  created by Manojit Barman Knit Finishing in Arvind Ltd. bY Anupam Vowmic,  created by Manojit Barman
Knit Finishing in Arvind Ltd. bY Anupam Vowmic, created by Manojit Barman
 
Presentation-of-ETL Hasan Syead.pptx
Presentation-of-ETL Hasan Syead.pptxPresentation-of-ETL Hasan Syead.pptx
Presentation-of-ETL Hasan Syead.pptx
 
Presentation
PresentationPresentation
Presentation
 
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF rupa fabrics ltd.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF rupa fabrics ltd. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF rupa fabrics ltd.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF rupa fabrics ltd.
 
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF BISWAS GROUP LTD
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF BISWAS GROUP LTDINDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF BISWAS GROUP LTD
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF BISWAS GROUP LTD
 
Comtex engg-bom-pvt-ltd
Comtex engg-bom-pvt-ltdComtex engg-bom-pvt-ltd
Comtex engg-bom-pvt-ltd
 
Industrial Attachment of Interstoff apparels limited
Industrial Attachment of Interstoff apparels limitedIndustrial Attachment of Interstoff apparels limited
Industrial Attachment of Interstoff apparels limited
 
Sewbot clothing manufacturing
Sewbot clothing manufacturingSewbot clothing manufacturing
Sewbot clothing manufacturing
 
Nishat Group Pvt-1 (1)
Nishat Group Pvt-1 (1)Nishat Group Pvt-1 (1)
Nishat Group Pvt-1 (1)
 
Presentation of epyllion group
Presentation of epyllion groupPresentation of epyllion group
Presentation of epyllion group
 
Industrial attachment of square knits fabrics limited (SKFL)
Industrial  attachment  of square knits fabrics limited (SKFL)Industrial  attachment  of square knits fabrics limited (SKFL)
Industrial attachment of square knits fabrics limited (SKFL)
 
Mill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan Jany
Mill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan JanyMill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan Jany
Mill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan Jany
 
Industrial attachment of epyllion knitex ltd
Industrial  attachment  of  epyllion knitex ltdIndustrial  attachment  of  epyllion knitex ltd
Industrial attachment of epyllion knitex ltd
 
TEXTILE PROCESS TRANING REPORT
TEXTILE PROCESS  TRANING REPORT TEXTILE PROCESS  TRANING REPORT
TEXTILE PROCESS TRANING REPORT
 
Alok industries
Alok industriesAlok industries
Alok industries
 
Mill training report viyellatex dyeing
Mill training report viyellatex  dyeingMill training report viyellatex  dyeing
Mill training report viyellatex dyeing
 

Mais de Vinay Prajapati

Children Interest Psychology
Children Interest PsychologyChildren Interest Psychology
Children Interest PsychologyVinay Prajapati
 
महिलाओं के साथ दुराचार के कारण और निवारण
महिलाओं के साथ दुराचार के कारण और निवारणमहिलाओं के साथ दुराचार के कारण और निवारण
महिलाओं के साथ दुराचार के कारण और निवारणVinay Prajapati
 
Amar Ujala 30 August, Award News
Amar Ujala 30 August, Award NewsAmar Ujala 30 August, Award News
Amar Ujala 30 August, Award NewsVinay Prajapati
 
Stitch World - RFID Shopping Cart
Stitch World - RFID Shopping CartStitch World - RFID Shopping Cart
Stitch World - RFID Shopping CartVinay Prajapati
 
RFID Shopping Cart - Ahmedabad Mirror - 26 May 2012
RFID Shopping Cart - Ahmedabad Mirror - 26 May 2012RFID Shopping Cart - Ahmedabad Mirror - 26 May 2012
RFID Shopping Cart - Ahmedabad Mirror - 26 May 2012Vinay Prajapati
 
RFID Shopping Cart - Gujarat Samachar - 17 Aug 2012
RFID Shopping Cart - Gujarat Samachar - 17 Aug 2012RFID Shopping Cart - Gujarat Samachar - 17 Aug 2012
RFID Shopping Cart - Gujarat Samachar - 17 Aug 2012Vinay Prajapati
 
RFID Shopping Trolley by Me
RFID Shopping Trolley by MeRFID Shopping Trolley by Me
RFID Shopping Trolley by MeVinay Prajapati
 
Successful and Failed Entrepreneurs
Successful and Failed EntrepreneursSuccessful and Failed Entrepreneurs
Successful and Failed EntrepreneursVinay Prajapati
 
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Report
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship ReportModelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Report
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship ReportVinay Prajapati
 
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Presentation
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship PresentationModelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Presentation
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship PresentationVinay Prajapati
 
Apparel Technology Management - Planning Apparel Manufacturing Factory
Apparel Technology  Management - Planning Apparel Manufacturing FactoryApparel Technology  Management - Planning Apparel Manufacturing Factory
Apparel Technology Management - Planning Apparel Manufacturing FactoryVinay Prajapati
 
Business Plan - Setup A Jeans Factory
Business Plan - Setup A Jeans FactoryBusiness Plan - Setup A Jeans Factory
Business Plan - Setup A Jeans FactoryVinay Prajapati
 
Fashion Reveries - Website Development
Fashion Reveries - Website DevelopmentFashion Reveries - Website Development
Fashion Reveries - Website DevelopmentVinay Prajapati
 
Project Management Through Gantt & Pert Chart
Project Management Through Gantt & Pert ChartProject Management Through Gantt & Pert Chart
Project Management Through Gantt & Pert ChartVinay Prajapati
 
Denim Jeans Factory Set Up Planning
Denim Jeans Factory Set Up PlanningDenim Jeans Factory Set Up Planning
Denim Jeans Factory Set Up PlanningVinay Prajapati
 
Role of IPR in creativity and knowledge economy vinay & kathir
Role of IPR in creativity and knowledge economy   vinay & kathirRole of IPR in creativity and knowledge economy   vinay & kathir
Role of IPR in creativity and knowledge economy vinay & kathirVinay Prajapati
 

Mais de Vinay Prajapati (20)

Children Interest Psychology
Children Interest PsychologyChildren Interest Psychology
Children Interest Psychology
 
महिलाओं के साथ दुराचार के कारण और निवारण
महिलाओं के साथ दुराचार के कारण और निवारणमहिलाओं के साथ दुराचार के कारण और निवारण
महिलाओं के साथ दुराचार के कारण और निवारण
 
Amar Ujala 30 August, Award News
Amar Ujala 30 August, Award NewsAmar Ujala 30 August, Award News
Amar Ujala 30 August, Award News
 
Stitch World - RFID Shopping Cart
Stitch World - RFID Shopping CartStitch World - RFID Shopping Cart
Stitch World - RFID Shopping Cart
 
RFID Shopping Cart - Ahmedabad Mirror - 26 May 2012
RFID Shopping Cart - Ahmedabad Mirror - 26 May 2012RFID Shopping Cart - Ahmedabad Mirror - 26 May 2012
RFID Shopping Cart - Ahmedabad Mirror - 26 May 2012
 
RFID Shopping Cart - Gujarat Samachar - 17 Aug 2012
RFID Shopping Cart - Gujarat Samachar - 17 Aug 2012RFID Shopping Cart - Gujarat Samachar - 17 Aug 2012
RFID Shopping Cart - Gujarat Samachar - 17 Aug 2012
 
RFID Shopping Trolley by Me
RFID Shopping Trolley by MeRFID Shopping Trolley by Me
RFID Shopping Trolley by Me
 
Successful and Failed Entrepreneurs
Successful and Failed EntrepreneursSuccessful and Failed Entrepreneurs
Successful and Failed Entrepreneurs
 
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Report
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship ReportModelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Report
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Report
 
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Presentation
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship PresentationModelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Presentation
Modelama Exports - Apparel Manufacturing Internship Presentation
 
Apparel Technology Management - Planning Apparel Manufacturing Factory
Apparel Technology  Management - Planning Apparel Manufacturing FactoryApparel Technology  Management - Planning Apparel Manufacturing Factory
Apparel Technology Management - Planning Apparel Manufacturing Factory
 
Business Plan - Setup A Jeans Factory
Business Plan - Setup A Jeans FactoryBusiness Plan - Setup A Jeans Factory
Business Plan - Setup A Jeans Factory
 
Fashion Reveries - Website Development
Fashion Reveries - Website DevelopmentFashion Reveries - Website Development
Fashion Reveries - Website Development
 
Project Management Through Gantt & Pert Chart
Project Management Through Gantt & Pert ChartProject Management Through Gantt & Pert Chart
Project Management Through Gantt & Pert Chart
 
Denim Jeans Factory Set Up Planning
Denim Jeans Factory Set Up PlanningDenim Jeans Factory Set Up Planning
Denim Jeans Factory Set Up Planning
 
Cad systems
Cad systemsCad systems
Cad systems
 
Trouser Quality Manual
Trouser Quality ManualTrouser Quality Manual
Trouser Quality Manual
 
Levi's strauss
Levi's straussLevi's strauss
Levi's strauss
 
Social networking
Social networkingSocial networking
Social networking
 
Role of IPR in creativity and knowledge economy vinay & kathir
Role of IPR in creativity and knowledge economy   vinay & kathirRole of IPR in creativity and knowledge economy   vinay & kathir
Role of IPR in creativity and knowledge economy vinay & kathir
 

Último

ROLES IN A STAGE PRODUCTION in arts.pptx
ROLES IN A STAGE PRODUCTION in arts.pptxROLES IN A STAGE PRODUCTION in arts.pptx
ROLES IN A STAGE PRODUCTION in arts.pptxVanesaIglesias10
 
Team Lead Succeed – Helping you and your team achieve high-performance teamwo...
Team Lead Succeed – Helping you and your team achieve high-performance teamwo...Team Lead Succeed – Helping you and your team achieve high-performance teamwo...
Team Lead Succeed – Helping you and your team achieve high-performance teamwo...Association for Project Management
 
Measures of Position DECILES for ungrouped data
Measures of Position DECILES for ungrouped dataMeasures of Position DECILES for ungrouped data
Measures of Position DECILES for ungrouped dataBabyAnnMotar
 
ClimART Action | eTwinning Project
ClimART Action    |    eTwinning ProjectClimART Action    |    eTwinning Project
ClimART Action | eTwinning Projectjordimapav
 
Textual Evidence in Reading and Writing of SHS
Textual Evidence in Reading and Writing of SHSTextual Evidence in Reading and Writing of SHS
Textual Evidence in Reading and Writing of SHSMae Pangan
 
MS4 level being good citizen -imperative- (1) (1).pdf
MS4 level   being good citizen -imperative- (1) (1).pdfMS4 level   being good citizen -imperative- (1) (1).pdf
MS4 level being good citizen -imperative- (1) (1).pdfMr Bounab Samir
 
Q-Factor General Quiz-7th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
Q-Factor General Quiz-7th April 2024, Quiz Club NITWQ-Factor General Quiz-7th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
Q-Factor General Quiz-7th April 2024, Quiz Club NITWQuiz Club NITW
 
Expanded definition: technical and operational
Expanded definition: technical and operationalExpanded definition: technical and operational
Expanded definition: technical and operationalssuser3e220a
 
How to Fix XML SyntaxError in Odoo the 17
How to Fix XML SyntaxError in Odoo the 17How to Fix XML SyntaxError in Odoo the 17
How to Fix XML SyntaxError in Odoo the 17Celine George
 
Concurrency Control in Database Management system
Concurrency Control in Database Management systemConcurrency Control in Database Management system
Concurrency Control in Database Management systemChristalin Nelson
 
Grade Three -ELLNA-REVIEWER-ENGLISH.pptx
Grade Three -ELLNA-REVIEWER-ENGLISH.pptxGrade Three -ELLNA-REVIEWER-ENGLISH.pptx
Grade Three -ELLNA-REVIEWER-ENGLISH.pptxkarenfajardo43
 
Using Grammatical Signals Suitable to Patterns of Idea Development
Using Grammatical Signals Suitable to Patterns of Idea DevelopmentUsing Grammatical Signals Suitable to Patterns of Idea Development
Using Grammatical Signals Suitable to Patterns of Idea Developmentchesterberbo7
 
How to Make a Duplicate of Your Odoo 17 Database
How to Make a Duplicate of Your Odoo 17 DatabaseHow to Make a Duplicate of Your Odoo 17 Database
How to Make a Duplicate of Your Odoo 17 DatabaseCeline George
 
Active Learning Strategies (in short ALS).pdf
Active Learning Strategies (in short ALS).pdfActive Learning Strategies (in short ALS).pdf
Active Learning Strategies (in short ALS).pdfPatidar M
 
Man or Manufactured_ Redefining Humanity Through Biopunk Narratives.pptx
Man or Manufactured_ Redefining Humanity Through Biopunk Narratives.pptxMan or Manufactured_ Redefining Humanity Through Biopunk Narratives.pptx
Man or Manufactured_ Redefining Humanity Through Biopunk Narratives.pptxDhatriParmar
 
Mythology Quiz-4th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
Mythology Quiz-4th April 2024, Quiz Club NITWMythology Quiz-4th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
Mythology Quiz-4th April 2024, Quiz Club NITWQuiz Club NITW
 
Reading and Writing Skills 11 quarter 4 melc 1
Reading and Writing Skills 11 quarter 4 melc 1Reading and Writing Skills 11 quarter 4 melc 1
Reading and Writing Skills 11 quarter 4 melc 1GloryAnnCastre1
 
4.11.24 Poverty and Inequality in America.pptx
4.11.24 Poverty and Inequality in America.pptx4.11.24 Poverty and Inequality in America.pptx
4.11.24 Poverty and Inequality in America.pptxmary850239
 

Último (20)

ROLES IN A STAGE PRODUCTION in arts.pptx
ROLES IN A STAGE PRODUCTION in arts.pptxROLES IN A STAGE PRODUCTION in arts.pptx
ROLES IN A STAGE PRODUCTION in arts.pptx
 
Team Lead Succeed – Helping you and your team achieve high-performance teamwo...
Team Lead Succeed – Helping you and your team achieve high-performance teamwo...Team Lead Succeed – Helping you and your team achieve high-performance teamwo...
Team Lead Succeed – Helping you and your team achieve high-performance teamwo...
 
Measures of Position DECILES for ungrouped data
Measures of Position DECILES for ungrouped dataMeasures of Position DECILES for ungrouped data
Measures of Position DECILES for ungrouped data
 
ClimART Action | eTwinning Project
ClimART Action    |    eTwinning ProjectClimART Action    |    eTwinning Project
ClimART Action | eTwinning Project
 
Textual Evidence in Reading and Writing of SHS
Textual Evidence in Reading and Writing of SHSTextual Evidence in Reading and Writing of SHS
Textual Evidence in Reading and Writing of SHS
 
INCLUSIVE EDUCATION PRACTICES FOR TEACHERS AND TRAINERS.pptx
INCLUSIVE EDUCATION PRACTICES FOR TEACHERS AND TRAINERS.pptxINCLUSIVE EDUCATION PRACTICES FOR TEACHERS AND TRAINERS.pptx
INCLUSIVE EDUCATION PRACTICES FOR TEACHERS AND TRAINERS.pptx
 
MS4 level being good citizen -imperative- (1) (1).pdf
MS4 level   being good citizen -imperative- (1) (1).pdfMS4 level   being good citizen -imperative- (1) (1).pdf
MS4 level being good citizen -imperative- (1) (1).pdf
 
Q-Factor General Quiz-7th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
Q-Factor General Quiz-7th April 2024, Quiz Club NITWQ-Factor General Quiz-7th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
Q-Factor General Quiz-7th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
 
Expanded definition: technical and operational
Expanded definition: technical and operationalExpanded definition: technical and operational
Expanded definition: technical and operational
 
How to Fix XML SyntaxError in Odoo the 17
How to Fix XML SyntaxError in Odoo the 17How to Fix XML SyntaxError in Odoo the 17
How to Fix XML SyntaxError in Odoo the 17
 
Concurrency Control in Database Management system
Concurrency Control in Database Management systemConcurrency Control in Database Management system
Concurrency Control in Database Management system
 
Grade Three -ELLNA-REVIEWER-ENGLISH.pptx
Grade Three -ELLNA-REVIEWER-ENGLISH.pptxGrade Three -ELLNA-REVIEWER-ENGLISH.pptx
Grade Three -ELLNA-REVIEWER-ENGLISH.pptx
 
prashanth updated resume 2024 for Teaching Profession
prashanth updated resume 2024 for Teaching Professionprashanth updated resume 2024 for Teaching Profession
prashanth updated resume 2024 for Teaching Profession
 
Using Grammatical Signals Suitable to Patterns of Idea Development
Using Grammatical Signals Suitable to Patterns of Idea DevelopmentUsing Grammatical Signals Suitable to Patterns of Idea Development
Using Grammatical Signals Suitable to Patterns of Idea Development
 
How to Make a Duplicate of Your Odoo 17 Database
How to Make a Duplicate of Your Odoo 17 DatabaseHow to Make a Duplicate of Your Odoo 17 Database
How to Make a Duplicate of Your Odoo 17 Database
 
Active Learning Strategies (in short ALS).pdf
Active Learning Strategies (in short ALS).pdfActive Learning Strategies (in short ALS).pdf
Active Learning Strategies (in short ALS).pdf
 
Man or Manufactured_ Redefining Humanity Through Biopunk Narratives.pptx
Man or Manufactured_ Redefining Humanity Through Biopunk Narratives.pptxMan or Manufactured_ Redefining Humanity Through Biopunk Narratives.pptx
Man or Manufactured_ Redefining Humanity Through Biopunk Narratives.pptx
 
Mythology Quiz-4th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
Mythology Quiz-4th April 2024, Quiz Club NITWMythology Quiz-4th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
Mythology Quiz-4th April 2024, Quiz Club NITW
 
Reading and Writing Skills 11 quarter 4 melc 1
Reading and Writing Skills 11 quarter 4 melc 1Reading and Writing Skills 11 quarter 4 melc 1
Reading and Writing Skills 11 quarter 4 melc 1
 
4.11.24 Poverty and Inequality in America.pptx
4.11.24 Poverty and Inequality in America.pptx4.11.24 Poverty and Inequality in America.pptx
4.11.24 Poverty and Inequality in America.pptx
 

Bharat Vijay Mills Winter Internship Report 2011

  • 1. 2011 BVM Internship Report Navneet Kr. Yadav, Vinay Prajapati M.F.TECH, SEM-II, NIFT, Gandhinagar
  • 2. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT A project report usually falls short of its expectations until and unless guided by the right people at the right time. We would thus like to express our deep sense of gratitude to our h onorable mentor Prof. Pranav Vora for his constant aid and support throughout the span of this project. They were always by our side and accomplished us in this project on TEXTILE INTERNSHIP at BHARAT VIJAY MILLS(BVM),KALOL . We deeply acknowledge the HRD and executive HRD of Bharat Vijay Mills, Mr.V.K.Chaturvedi and Mr. Chintan Dholakia without whom our internship wo uld have been a distant dream. We would also like to thank the general managers and other staffs and workers of all the departments at Bharat Vijay Mills for their helping hand in explain ing us the basic processes and machinery and for providing us with complete information about their respective departments. Last, but not the least, we would like to thank our other faculty members for their constant support in guiding us towards the completion of this project. Navneet Yadav Vinay Prajapati
  • 3. CONTENTS i. Objective ii. Company profile iii. Introduction – fiber to fabric iv. Spinning department v. Yarn dyeing vi. Weaving department vii. Corduroy viii. Grey folding ix. Dyeing and processing x. Testing xi. Finishing xii. Finish folding xiii. Conclusion xiv. Bibliography
  • 4. OBJECTIVE  To understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric(both woven and knitted) production, dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purposes.  To learn the all the above processes and their applications practically by applying theoretical concepts.  To have an overview of the organizational structure of the company and mill.  To know about the basic functioning of a textile mill.  To understand the management of the company and the role of each subsystem (Dept.) and its relationship with other Subsystems for the smooth running of Business.
  • 5. COMPANY PROFILE Bharat Vijay Mills – the textile division of Sintex Industries Ltd., is into converting fibre to finished packaged fabrics. It was established in the year 1931. Later, in year 1956, the present management took over. Their president is Mr. Dinesh Patel. They are for more than seven decades in textiles as a leading manufacturer of fashion fabrics consisting of varied product mix in Cottons and Blends. Their plant is at kalol about 30 km from Ahmedabad city about 500 km in north of Mumbai, India. Their product range includes yarn dyed shirting, jacquard & Dobby Structures, corduroys, bottom weights, solid dyed, Poplins & Dobby Shirting with varieties of weaves, varieties of jacquard, dobby & leno structured furnishing fabrics, organic cotton certified by union control, linen, cotton with linen, silk, lycra, nylon, tinsel and viscose and surface coating with pigment colors. To be strict on the quality part, they practice ongoing quality checks at every level starting from input of raw materials to the final product. After the final product is ready, a 100 % inspection is conducted including shade sorting and grading etc. And only after successful inspection, the final product is shipped to the client. They also have organized state of the art laboratories as well as pilot plants for R&D activities. Their team of professional has been built by hiring the best in the industry and to maintain healthy work culture, they empower them with mutual trust and the growth opportunities. In house, they train their employees on behaviour, knowledge, culture, and skills etc. Totally, 2000 employees including the most professional candidates and managers, together make Bharat Vijay Mills a preferred partner to their clients for longer business relationships.
  • 6. A combination of their state of the art plant, modern technology, reliable QA systems, qualified managers, and smart workforce make it together to offer world class quality of products and services to their clients and customers. They are totally a customer driven organization. Their export markets are worldwide as they are regular suppliers to Europe, USA, Middle East, India and Neighbouring Countries. Infrastructure:  Equipped with all level state of the art machinery.  Fully automatic.  Micro process controlled.  Overall capacity - 22 million meters.  Can deliver 65" finished width fabrics.  Plant specifically designed for varied product mix (Fabric weights - 80 gsm to 550 gsm)‫‏‬ .  Can handle 100% cotton as well as blends.  Combination of rapier & airjet looms with dobbies and jacquards.  Continuous and computer controlled processes for product consistency.  Equipped to provide specialised mechanical & chemical finishes.  Testing & QC lab equipped to satisfy most discerning customers.  On line quality checking system.  Networking facilities within the complex.  Most modern & state of the art plant. Their best practices include - Eco friendly products, economizing on water, energy & salt utilisation, meeting the standards as lay down by discerning customers, higher productivity.
  • 7. Vision: To achieve global presence in textile business through continuous product and technical innovation, customer orientation and a focus on cost effectiveness, quality and services. Their Additional services include a Design Studio -  That offers four seasonal collections every year.  CAD & Desk Loom Support based on Customers’ theme.  Short Length Fabric Development on Auto Looms.  Dedicated setup for Sampling Yardage from 10 to 100 meters.  Continuous product concept developments. Financial Details: No of Employees – 2000 Turnover in Crs – 100-250 Crs Sector- Private Sector Buyer: Arrow, Van Heusen, Armani, Hugo Boss, Diesel, Burberry, DKNY, S.Oliver, Zara, Mexx, Meggimo Dotti, Banana Republic. Website : www.sintex-india.com
  • 8. Hierarchy in Organization Managing Director President Senior General Manager General Manager Deputyt General Manager Senior Manager Manager Deputy Managers Senior Executive Executive
  • 9. Manageing Director Administration And Procurement Marketing Group C.F.O Technical President Operational President President President Production, HR, IR, Security, Finance, Accounts, Stores, Purchase, Domestic and Warehouse(Raw Powerplant, Secretrial Function Export, Import Export material + Finished Administration product)
  • 10. PROCESS FLOW CHART FIBER TO FABRIC Fibers undergo the following processes to finally get converted into a finished fabric (ready for garment construction).
  • 11. SPINNING DEPARTMENT Process Flowchart: Carded Process Flowchart: Combed Stack mixing Bale opening Pre opening Stack mixing Blow room Blow room Card Pre comb Card Lap forming Draw Frame Comber Post comber Speed Frame Speed Frame Ring Frame Winding Ring Frame Winding Warping Winding Winding Parallel winding Parallel Winding T.F.O T.F.O
  • 12. PROCESSES Bale opening: The bale of cotton brought into the spinning department is first opened for further processes in blow room. It was done manually here. Stack Mixing: The opened bales are mixed. Blow room: Basic operations in the blowroom are:  Opening  Cleaning  Mixing or blending  Microdust removal  Uniform feed to the carding machine  Recycling the waste Blow room installations consist of a sequence of different machines to carry out the above said operations. Moreover Since the tuft size of cotton becomes smaller and smaller, the required intensities of processing necessitates different machine configuration. Opening in blowroom means opening of cotton into small flocks. Technological operation of opening means the volume of the flock is increased while the number of fibres remains constant. i.e. the specific density of the material is reduced.  The larger the dirt particle , the better they can be removed.  Since almost every blowroom machine can shatter particles, as far as possible a lot of impurities should be eliminated at the start of the process. Opening should be followed immediately by cleaning, if possible in the same machine.
  • 13.  The higher the degree of opening, the higher the degree of cleaning. A very high cleaning effect is almost always purchased at the cost of a high fibre loss. Higher roller speeds give a better cleaning effect but also more stress on the fibre. MACHINE AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS: Mixer opener GBR trutzschler No. of machines: 2 Salient Features:  Machine working width is 1600 mm.  Infinitely variable production upto 800 kg/hr without opening and cleaning roller and upto 600 kg/hr with opening and cleaning roller.  Additional bypass roller aid for a smooth flow of material when the machine is bypassed.  In-built panel with PLC and Inverter helps to monitor the machine parameters.  Dynamic change of Lattice and feed roller speeds possible.  Fault announciation through display.
  • 14.  Guide plates for optimum trash removal.  Extremely good and consistent opening of material.  Homogenous blending of the material prior to opening. All types of cottons, man-made fibres and their blends can be processed with or without cleaning point. Cleaning: The aim is separation of nonfibrous waste from fibrous blend. The way of separation depends on this waste properties. For metal particles are used magnets. Non-fibrous shape particle fall through working parts of machines (whereas fibers are catched) or they are separated due to their different inertia. Example of separatio due to different inertia is cyclone separator. The circulating mass of air, fibers and particles is moved up so heavy particles can´t follow the air stream and fall down. Fine particles should be filtered. The cleaning process is substituted in machines for fibers opening. It is possible to use special cleaning machines especially when the input fibrous material is dirty. MACHINE AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS  B 12 Uniclean Pre-Cleaner - Efficient And Reliable Pre-Cleaning  No. of machines - 2 This pre-cleaner cleans the microtufts in the first cleaning stage. This enables machine output of up to 1400 kg/h to be achieved. Cleaning is performed without nipping and is therefore very gentle to the fibers and at the same time efficient. VarioSet enables waste volume and waste composition to be adjusted optimally at the push of a button. This ensures a high level of raw material utilization. Salient features:  This is designed for output of up to 1400 kg/h (carded sliver).
  • 15. Fiber yield with simultaneous efficient cleaning is up to 2% higher than on conventional units.  Energy-saving due to low air consumption.  Pre-cleaning without nipping and the use of mote knives results in fiber-preserving cleaning.  The large dedusting surface ensures intensive dedusting even at high production performance.  Rapid assessment of high cleaning performance and low losses of good fibers by visual waste checks. Mixing or blending: The consistency in yarn quality depends heavily on the homogeneity of the material composition. The objective of mixing is to optimize the homogeneity of the material mixture by combining several bales. Further objectives of mixing are:  Decrease of irregularities in bales of different origin.  Economic processing.  Recycling of comber waste.  Effect on the properties of final product.  Reduction of raw material costs.  Usualy are fibers stocked in one direction and remove in perpendicular direction. MACHINE USED AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS
  • 16.  No. of machines – 1  Trutzschlier mixing bale. Perfect and Homogeneous blend is achieved, simultaneous mixing by doublings' over an extended period of time is achieved. The cotton bales are opened and premixed by bale opener. This blend is blown by the material transport fan and conveyed into the feed duct above the hopper. The charging of the multimixer starts with the first hopper at the end of the feed duct. It is filled only to just below the photo cell situated in the adjacent hopper, then the closing flap of the second hopper is opened by push button operation. Second hopper is charged to a rather higher than the first. The charging level of the hopper rises uniformly up to the last hopper which is fully charged, when the last hopper is full the Closing flap shuts automatically and charging restarts with first hopper, as soon as the level second hopper has dropped below the Photo Electric cell. Whilst the last hopper is being charged, material transport is switched on and material in the hoppers starts to drop. When the charging level rises, more and more of the holes in the perforated plate of the upper part of hopper are blocked with material. This increases the pressure the conveyor air. Once a pre-selected pressure is reached, which corresponds to a particular charging level, an electronic switch closes the flap of this hopper and opens up the flap of the next hopper." The base of each hopper is closed by a pair of deliver roller which transfers the material gradually and uniformly to an opening roller. The delivery rollers of the entire hopper are two variable speed motor with control range up to 1 : 6 in this way it is possible to adjust the output of multimixer to the feed requirement of the subsequent machine.
  • 17. Opening roller gently loosen the material into tufts and deliver them into the blending channel from which they are sucked by the subsequent condenser. Microdust Removal: Cotton contains very little dust before ginning. Dust is therefore caused by working of the material on the machine. New dust is being created through shattering of impurities and smashing and rubbing of fibres. However removal of dust is not simple. Dust particles are very light and therefore float with the cotton in the transport stream. Furthermore the particles adhere quite strongly to the fibres. If they are to be eliminated they are to be rubbed off. The main elimination points for adhering dust therefore, are those points in the process at which high fibre/metal friction or high fibre/fibre friction is produced. Removal of finest particles of contaminants and fibre fragments can be accomplished by releasing the dust into the air, like by turning the material over, and then removing the dust-contaminated air. Release of dust into the air occurs whereever the raw material is rolled, beaten or thrown about. Accordingly the air at such positions is sucked away. Perforated drums, stationary perforated drums, stationary combs etc. are some instruments used to remove dust. CARDING "Card is the heart of the spinning mill" and "Well carded is half spun" are two proverbs of the experts. These proverbs inform the immense significance of carding in the spinning process. High production in carding to economise the process leads to reduction in yarn quality. Higher the production, the more sensitive becomes the carding operation and the greater danger of a negative influence on quality. The technological changes that has taken place in the process of carding is remarkable. Latest machines achieve the production rate of 60 - 100 kgs / hr, which used to be 5 - 10 kgs / hr, upto 1970.
  • 18. The Purpose of Carding:  To open the flocks into individual fibres  cleaning or elimination of impurities  reduction of neps  elimination of dust  elimination of short fibres  fibre blending  fibre orientation or alignment  sliver formation CARDING AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS Lap feeding was followed for carding. Carding capacity: 1.8 tonnes/day Machines : Trutzschler DK -740 cards : 8 Trutzschler DK -780 cards : 8 Latest TRUTZSCHLER cards work with three licker-ins compared to one liker-in. The first one is constructed as needle roll. This results in very gentle opening and an extremely long clothing life for this roll. The other two rollers are with finer clothing and higher speeds, which results in feeding more %of individual fibres and smallest tufts compared to single lickerin, to the main cylinder. This allows the maing cylinder to go high in speeds and reduce the load on cylinder and flat tops. There by higher productivity is achieved with good quality. But the performance may vary for different materials and different waste levels between the taker-in and main cylinder , the clothings are in the doffing disposition. It exerts an influence on the sliver quality and also on the improvement in fibres longitudinal orientation that occurs here. The effect depends on the draft between main cylinder and taker-in. The draft between main cylinder and taker-in should be slightly more than 2.0.
  • 19. The opening effect is directly proportional to the number of wire points per fibre. At the Taker-in perhaps 0.3 points/ fibre and at the main cylinder 10-15 points /fibre.If a given quality of yarn is required, a corresponding degree of opening at the card is needed. To increase production in carding, the number of points per unit time must also be increased. This can be achieved by:  more points per unit area(finer clothing)  higher roller and cylinder speeds  more carding surface or carding position Speeds and wire population has reached the maximum, further increase will result in design and technological problems. Hence the best way is to add carding surface (stationary flats). Carding plates can be applied at  under the liker-in  between the licker-in and flats  between flats and doffer Taker-in does not deliver 100% individual fibres to main cylinder. It delivers around 70% as small flocks to main cylinder. If carding segments are not used, the load on cylinder and flats will be very high and carding action also suffers. If carding segemets are used, they ensure further opening, thinning out and primarily, spreading out and improved distribution of the flocks over the total surface area. Carding segments bring the following advantages:  improved dirt and dust elimination  improved disentanglement of neps  possibility of speed increase (production increase)  preservation of the clothing  possibility of using finer clothings on the flats and cylinder  better yarn quality  less damage to the clothing  cleaner clothing
  • 20. COMBING Lapping is a preparatory process for combing. The main objective is to flatten the slivers and obtain a dense lap of fibres to maintain fineness of the combed slivers. Combing is a method for preparing fiber for spinning by use of combs. It is a technique that has been used in the preparation of textiles for centuries. Essentially, combing is a process that helps to smooth and prepare fibers for use in spinning. Combing also helps to separate short fibers from longer ones, which also helps to make the process of spinning much easier. While the combs used in this process of fiber preparation do function with a combing action, the actual devices have no more than a passing resemblance to the combs used on hair. For textile purposes, the fiber combs are equipped with long metal teeth. Two combs are utilized in tandem, with one comb holding the strand of fiber in place while the other comb moves across the surface of the fiber. Combing accomplishes two tasks at once. As the comb moves through the fiber, it slowly separates the shorter fibers from the longer ones. Short fibers do not work well in a spinning operation, but may be set aside and processed using a technique known as carding. The longer fibers are arranged into flat bundles, with all the fibers facing the same direction. These bundles can then be processed through spinning, creating yarn and thread that can then be used to weave cloth. Combing is normally used to prepare a worsted yarn that is made of natural fibers, such as cotton. In fact, combing cotton is a common process when the fiber is intended for
  • 21. use in various forms of apparel. The combed cotton will feel smoother to the touch, and also produce a garment that will wear longer than a garment made with uncombed cotton. Not all natural fiber yarns are made by combing, however. Woolen yarn is one example. This type of yarn is made by carding the wool only; the additional step of combing is not performed. Carding straightens some of the fibers, but not to the degree that combing does. The result is a lighter, stretchier yarn with more air. In general, carding is used on shorter fibers, while longer fibers are combed. Many textile companies will employ both combing and carding in the preparation of fibers for use in different types of products, such as shirting fabric, towels, sheeting, and other essential household items. SEQUENCE OF OPERATION IN A COMBER  Feeding, lap is fed by feed roller.  Fed lap gripped by the nipper  Gripped lap is combed by circular comb  Detaching roller grips the combed lap and moves forward while the detaching roller delivers the material, top comb comes into action to further clean the lap.  While going back,nipper opens and receives a new bit of lap.  The rawmaterial delivered by the carding machine can not be fed directly to the comber.  Lap preparation is a must. COMBING AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS Combing capacity : 5 tonnes/day Machines: High speed combers LK -250 : 6
  • 22. Lap former E2/4A : 2 High speed combers LK – 54 : 1 High speed combers LK – 64 : 2 High speed combers LK – 10 : 1 Draw Frame 8 slivers are combined to form one sliver to increase the uniformity and strength of sliver. Drawing is the process of combining several carded slivers into a single sliver. It eliminates irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were put individually. Blending of fibres can be done by combining slivers of different fibres. Within the card sliver is a substantial proportion of fibres with hooked ends. These hooks are formed as the fibres are moved along by the carding machinery. Their presence reduces the effective length of the fibre, and if these hooks are not removed the yarn produced will be weaker. Drawing out removes these hooks. TASKS OF DRAWFRAME  Through doubling the slivers are made even  doubling results in homogenization(blending)  through draft fibres get parallelised  hooks created in the card are straightened  through the suction ,intensive dust removal is achieved Defects arising during drawing stages:  Usable fibres in suction waste.  Single sliver.  Cuts in the sliver.
  • 23. Improper coiling.  Improper stock filling.  Improper functioning of autolevellers. Drawing at Bharat Vijay Mills: No. of Machines : HS draw frame DO/6 model – 2 HS draw frame Padametex 720 – 4 RSB 1 Draw frame – 2 RSB-D-30 Draw frame - 2 SPEED FRAME 120 sliver cans in one speed frame. Attenuation- drafting the sliver into roving:  twisting the drafted strand  winding the twisted roving on a bobbin The slivers are to be thinned out to the level required for the yarn to be spun. This process of attenuating the slivers is done in several steps on the Speed Frames. While converting slivers into roving, a small amount of twist is also inserted so that the roving could with-stand the winding and the unwinding tensions. The roving is would on suitable bobbins. Under conventional system of fly frames process, the machine use in this department are slubbing frame, intermediate frames and roving frames. Except as regard the numbers of spindles speed and dimensions of bobbins, the object structure and machine of all these frames are practically the same. The attention of the sliver is done gradually at each of these fly frames, depending upon the draft capacity of the machines. The drafting system employed determines the quality of the roving produced
  • 24. at the fly frames. All the advantage in technology the slubbing and roving process is climinated and the material in processed through only the passage of fly frames, viz. the canfed incer frames.  Fibre to fibre cohesion is less for combed slivers. Rollers in the creel can easily create false drafts. Care must be taken to ensure that the slivers are passed to the drafting arrangement without disturbance. Therefore, a perfect drive to the creel rollers is very important.  The drafting arrangement drafts the material with a draft between 5 and 15.The delivered strand is too thin to hold itself together at the exit of the front bottom roller.  Bobbin and flyer are driven separately, so that winding of the twisted strand is carried out by running the bobbin at a higher peripheral speed than the flyer.  The bobbin rail is moving up and down continuously, so that the coils must be wound closely and parallel to one another to ensure that as much as material is wound on the bobbin.  Since the diameter of the packages increases with each layer, the length of the roving per coil also will increase. Therefore the speed of movement of bobbin rail must be reduced by a small amount after each completed layer  Length delivered by the front roller is always constant. The following parameters are very important in SPEED FRAME. They are  Feed hank  Twist in the roving  Delivery hank  Bobbin content  Roving tension  flyer speed  break draft  Creel and creel draft  Drafting system  Drawframe sliverand can  Bottom roller setting  Bobbin height  Top roller setting  Breakage rate  condensers and spacers  Piecings
  • 25. At Bharat Vijay Mills Machines: Speed frame TS 15 Model – 3 Speed frame LF 1400 Model -4 Speed frame LF 1400 A Model - 3 RING FRAME: The last stage in the manufacture of yarn is spinning. In order to convert the roving into the required counts main operation which are simultaneously carried out off the ring frame are twisting and winding. The roving received from the fly frame department is still much thicker than the thickness final yarn required. Therefore the first process on the ring frame is drafting. The other operation which are done in the ring frames are twisting and winding. The amount of twist inserted here is larger than at any other previous stage on order to strengthen for the end use required. The twisted yarn in wound on bobbins.
  • 26. Hence this process is carried out :  To draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved  To impart strength to the fiber, by inserting twist  To wind up the twisted strand (yarn) in a form suitable for storage, transportation and further processing. Ring frame at Bharat Vijay Mills: Machines: Ring Frame DJ50N Model - 7 WINDING Since bobbins from ring frames are not suitable for further processing, hence winding of yarns on cones is done.  First, yarns from bobbins are wound onto cones  Secondly, if the yarns are to be dyed, then yarns from cones are transferred to soft package.  After dyeing, yarns are wound onto cones again for proper unwind of yarns during warping. Machines : Schlafhorst Autoconer 238 RM - 22
  • 27. MACHINES IN SPINNING DEPARTMENT Section No. of machines Blow room 9 Carding 16 Combing 14 Drawing 10 Speed Frame 10 Ring Frame 8 Winding 22 Others 3
  • 28. YARN DYEING Yarn dyeing is the dyeing of yarns before they have been woven or knitted into fabrics. Yarns may be dyed in different forms: 1) Skeins 2) Packages 3) Beams 1) Skein dyeing – It consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks of yarns into dye vats that are specially designed for this purpose. Soft, lofty yarns such as hand knitted yarns are dyed using this method. It is the most costly yarn dyeing method. 2) Package dyeing – In package dyeing, about a pound of yarn is wound on a small perforated spool or tube called package. It is widely used for most type of yarns found in knitted and woven fabrics. 3) Beam dyeing – It is simply a much larger version of package dyeing. An entire warp is wound onto a perforated cylinder, which is then placed in a beam dyeing machine where flow of the dye bath is alternated as in package dyeing. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or wool yarn are dyed at hank form. At Bharat Vijay mills, 100% cotton yarns were manufactured. Hence, package dyeing was the form of yarn dyeing used at BVM. Two types of dyes – vat & reactive dyes were used.
  • 29. Reactive dye 1. Pretreatment 2. Peroxide bleaching 3. Acid treatment Vat dye 1) Pretreatment 2) Dyeing 3) Oxidizing 4) After treatment 5) softening The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form is given below: Firstly the raw yarn is winded on spring tube to achieve package suitable for dye penetration. Then, these softened packages are loaded on a dyeing carrier's spindle one on other. Then, the packages are pressed up to a desired height to achieve suitable density of pkg. then, the carrier is loaded on dyeing machine and yarn is dyed. after dyeing, the packages are unloaded from the carrier in to a trolley. Then, all the packages are hydro extracted using a HYDRO EXTRACTOR to remove maximum amount of water. Then, all the packages are dried using PRESSURE DRYER OR RF DRYER(RADIO FREQUENCY DRYER) to achieve the final dyed package. At last the dyed yarn packages are packed and delivered. HYDRO EXTRACTOR
  • 30. After dyeing, the packages are sent to hydro extractor which extracts maximum amount of water from the package. Then the packages are sent to pressure or RF dryer for further drying. RF DRYER(RADIO FREQUENCY DRYER) More than 800 "RF" (Radio Frequency) model dryers, installed throughout the world since 1981, are presently in operation for the drying, to a conditioned weight, o f yarns in packages and cakes, worsted fibres (tops) in bobbin and bump form. Most combinations of natural, artificial and synthetic fibres, filament fibres or worsted and spun, pure or blended, in every count and form can be dried perfectly, down to the desired residual moisture level, with outstanding efficiency and quality results. In the "RFA" (Radio Frequency Assisted) series dryers, the RF treatment, precisely controlled in the different phases of the drying process thanks to a special design of the RF application electrodes, is combined with a conventional warm air circulation system. PRESSURE DRYER Dyed yarns are fed into this machine for drying under high pressure and temperature.The today's pressure dryer is equipped with an intelligent control unit, high performance heat exchanger, separator and a special blower.
  • 31. Options:  Satellite kier  Conditioning device for optimum distribution of remaining moisture  Continuous blower operation between batch changes for energy savings Machines at Bharat Vijay Mills Each package is of 700 gm. Weighing capacity of machine(in kg) No. of machines 27 2 46 6 60 4 100 1 109 4 110 3 200 1 400 2 600 2 850 1 RF Dryer: 2 m/c Pressure Dryer: 1m/c Hydro Extractor: 2 m/c WEAVING DEPARTMENT
  • 32. 1) WINDING The process of transferring yarn from ring bobbins, hanks, cones etc onto a suitable package is called Winding. Purpose of Winding: 1. To transfer yarn from one package to another package, this can be conveniently used for the weaving purposes. 2. To remove yarn faults like hairiness, neps, slubs, and foreign matters. 3. To produce long length of yarn by serially joining one yarn package with another. 4. To make bigger package. 5. To make soft package for package dyeing. 6. To permit easy unwinding during warping. 7. To avoid of excess looseness and tightness. 2) WARPING The primary objective of the warping process is to provide a continuous length of yarn from individual wound yarn packages, in sheet form to a beam for the succeeding process. There are several types of warping techniques, including: ball, direct, draw, indirect also called sectional and sample warping. When utilizing any technique in the warping process it is important to minimize end breaks, keep a constant and uniform tension on the yarns, keep a constant yarn speed, and insure quick response braking of the warper. These factors play a large role in the quality of the warp yarns, which in turn influences the runability of that warp yarn in the succeeding process.
  • 33. Most modern warpers are equipped with electronic stop motions which stop the warper as soon as a broken end is detected. It is crucial that the braking system is fast enough to stop the warper before the end reaches the beam. The end is much harder to find and correct once it has been wound onto the beam. Today's braking systems allow the beams to stop before one full revolution has occurred on the warp beam, in a direct system, or on the pattern drum in an indirect system. In the process of weaving, for warp yarns, we need to produce pre bean which is also called warpers beam. To produce warpers beam we need warping machine with a creel capacity about 400-700 cone capacity. To produce a weavers beam we need 6 to 16 warpers beam. Number of cones to be use in the creel depends on production planning. Warping at Bharat Vijay Mills: Two types of Warping machines were used in the mill:  Direct Warping  Sectional Warping Direct Warping Machine: 2 TECH MECH T- 1000
  • 34. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS WORKING WIDTH : 54 to 84 BEAM FLANGE DIA : 28” to 36” MAX WARPING SPEED : 600 Mtrs. / Min DRIVE : AC Variable speed frequency control BRAKING DEVICE : Pneumatic disc brakes for drum BEAM LOADING & : By pneumatically operated levers. UNLOADING BEAM PRESSING : Pneumatic pressing on both sides. DRUM : steel drum GUIDE ROLL : Balanced Hard Chrome plated Sectional Warping Machine: 6 SERVOTECH -130 FEATURES  Fixed cone height.  Steel drum dynamically balanced.  Variable frequency AC Drive.  Hydraulic disc brakes on both sides.  Stopping of drum at exact position at end of section.  Auto braking in case of Power failure.  Auto stop at point of lease cord.  Two separate motors for warping and beaming. Various parts of the machine are:
  • 35. DISPLAY UNIT  DISC BRAKE  BEAM PRESSING DEVICE  WARPING TABLE  MOTORIZED LEASING DEVICE  INSPECTION SOFTWARE  PRINTER 3) SIZING Sizing is a complementary operation which is carried out on warps formed by spun yarns with insufficient tenacity or by continuous filament yarns with zero twist. In general, when sizing is necessary, the yarn is beam warped, therefore all beams corresponding to the beams are fed, as soon as warping is completed, to the sizing machine where they are assembled. Sizing consists of impregnating the yarn with particular substances which form on the yarn surface a film with the aim of improving yarn smoothness and tenacity during the subsequent weaving stage. Due to its improved tenacity and elasticity, the yarn can stand without problems the tensions and the rubbing caused by weaving. The sizing methods change depending on the type of weaving machine used, on the
  • 36. yarn type and count, on the technician’s experience and skill, but above all on the kind of material in progress. The only common denominator of the various sizing materials is that they have to be easily removable after weaving in order to allow carrying out without problems the selected finishing cycle. The substances used as sizing material are potato flour, starches, glues, fats but also talc and kaolin, when a particularly thick size is requested. In Bharat Vijay Mills , there were total six warp sizing of three different brand:  Ambica warp sizing machine - 1  Sucker Muller sizing machine - 3  Jupiter sizing machine - 2 All the warp sheets from different beams are converted into 1 single sheet. Size is made in a drum and is transported through pipes and applied on the beam. It is then dried by hot rollers which are filled with steam. 4) DRAWING –IN The term drawing-in and warp tying refers to the operations involved in preparing the weaver's beam for the purpose of weaving fabrics on the loom. The drawing-in process primarily consists of drawing ends from the weaver's beam through heald eyes of different harnesses and then through the dents of a reed in the order that is determined by the design of the fabric. If a beam is to be worked with warp stop motion on the loom, especially when using closed drop- pins, the ends have to be drawn through these pins before drawing them through the heald eyes and reed dents.
  • 37. Conventionally drawing-in is carried out manually by two persons-one, the reacher for selecting and presenting the ends from the beam, and the other, the drawer for pulling ends through the drop-pins, heald eyes and reed dents. The main requirements of carrying out this process properly and efficiently are: 1. The operator should be aware of the principles of drawing-in and be trained to do the job speedily because any mistakes or delays in carrying out the process would prove to be costly. 2. The healds and reeds should be in good condition and of suitable specifications for ensuring that these are not the cause of warp breaks on the loom and of defects in the fabric. 3. The drawing of the beam should be done properly to avoid cross ends on the beam. 4. Suitable precautions should be taken to reduce the incidence of extra-ends and to compensate for the missing ends during the weaving of the loom. Only two machines were used in Bharat Vijay Mills for drawing-in process. There were two models of STAUBIL:  DELTA- 100: The DELTA 100 is specially designed for filament weavers and draws in the warp threads into healds and reed only.  DELTA-110: The DELTA 110 drawing-in installations are designed for weaving mills with medium drawing-in requirements. Drawing in at speeds of up to 140 per minute takes place directly from the warp beam with 1 warp sheet, or optionally with 2 warp sheets into healds, drop wires and reed. An optional module is available for drawing in coarse yarns. The main characteristics are: Feature DELTA 100 DELTA 110 Drawing-in speed (ends/min) 100/140* 100/140* Number of warps in 8h (ca.) up to 5 (6*) up to 5 (6*)
  • 38. Warp widths (m) 2.3 2.3 / 4.0 / 6.0 Number of warp beams 1 1 Number of thread layers 1 (2*) 1 (2*) Reed density (teeth/dm) 350 (500*) 350 (500*) Max. no. of frames (J/C-healds) 20 20 Max. no. of frames (O-healds) 16 16 Max. rows of dropwires – 6 (8*) Number of dropwire paths – 1 Drawing-in element Hook Hook Yarn count range (tex) 3-250 3-250 5) Weaving Process Weaving is the process of making cloth, rugs, blankets, and other products by crossing two sets of threads over and under each other. Weavers use threads spun from natural fibers like cotton, silk, and wool and synthetic fibers such as nylon and Orlon. But thin, narrow strips of almost any flexible material can be woven. People learned to weave thousands of years ago using natural grasses, leafstalks, palm leaves, and thin strips of wood. Today weaving ranks as a major industry in many countries. Weaving is often completed on high speed looms. But weaving is not limited to cloth and textile products. Weaving plays an important part in the manufacture of screens, metal fences, and rubber tire cord. Craftworkers also use varied fibers to weave baskets and hats. Woven fabrics are classified as to weave or structure according to the manner in which warp and weft cross each other. The three fundamental weaves, of which others are variations:  Plain  Twill  Satin
  • 39. PLAIN WEAVE: Each weft yarn goes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over and under each weft yarn. Some examples of plain weave fabrics are crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin. TWILL WEAVE: Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or other design. The design is enhanced with colored yarn is strong and may develop a shine. Twill weave is characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the yarns, which are exposed on the surface. Twill weaves are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of comparable fiber and yarn size. Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left SATIN WEAVE: Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread, resulting in a smooth face Common Fabrics: Satin, satin- weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton & Charmeuse. LOOMS A loom is a mechanism or tool used for weaving yarn and thread into textiles. Looms vary in a wide assortment of sizes. They come in huge free standing hand looms, tiny hand-held frames, to vast automatic mechanical tools. A loom can as well pertain to an electric line construction like that of a wiring
  • 40. loom. The main task of looms is to clutch the twist threads under pressure to enable the progress of interweaving of the woof strands. The loom's system and exact form can differ to some extent; however it still performs the basic application. The major components of the loom are the warp beam, heddles, harnesses, shuttle, reed and takeup roll. In the loom, yarn processing includes:  shedding  picking  battening  taking-up operations. Shedding. Shedding is the raising of the warp yarns to form a shed through which the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. The shed is the vertical space between the raised and unraised warp yarns. On the modern loom, simple and intricate shedding operations are performed automatically by the heddle or heald frame, also known as a harness. Two common methods of controlling the heddles are dobbies and a Jacquard Head. Picking. As the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the shed is created. The filling yarn in inserted through the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow passage through the shed. A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to the other is known as a pick. As the shuttle moves back and forth across the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling. Battening. As the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, it also passes through openings in another frame called a reed. With each picking operation, the reed presses or battens each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed.
  • 41. Taking up: With each weaving operation, the newly constructed fabric must be wound on a cloth beam. This process is called taking up. At the same time, the warp yarns must be let off or released from the warp beams. TYPES OF LOOMS: There are two types of looms depending upon the weft insertion:  SHUTTLE  SHUTTLE-LESS  Air jet  Water jet  Rapier  Projectile In Bharat Vijay Mills rapier and air jet were used. Rapier Looms: The rapier weaving machines are the most flexible machines on the market. Their application range covers a wide variety of fabric styles. Their present weaving speed of about 600-700 strokes/min is the result of the use of a state-of-the-art construction technique, characterized by the use of gear sets without plays and by minimum vibrations of the reed, the slay and the heald frames. The weft, which is under constant proper control, remains connected to the cloth as a consequence of the previous insertion. At the right moment the selection gear acts in a way, that the end of the weft is caught by the bearing rapier 1 mounted on a flexible tape or on a rod and at the same time is cut by shears on the selvedge side. The weft, after adequate braking, is transported to the center of the shed, where the bearing rapier meets the drawing rapier 2, which takes over the weft thread and, while holding it
  • 42. by its end, transports it back to the opposite side, where the rapier leaves it free, thus completing the insertion. The weft exchange between the two rapiers in the middle of the shed can take place in two different ways, that is:  negative system  positive system Air jet: The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft insertion performance and are considered as the most productive in the manufacturing of light to medium weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton and certain man-made fibres (sheets, shirting fabrics, linings, taffetas and satins in staple yarns of man-made fibres); it has anyway to be pointed out that technically positive results are obtained at present also with heavy weight fabrics (denims) and that some manufacturers produce also machine models for terry production. These machines are the ideal solution for those who want to produce bulk quantities of customized fabric styles. The weaving widths range generally from 190 to 400 cm. As regards the multicolour weft carrier, up to 8 different wefts can be fed. It has however to be considered that the air jet weaving machines require a high energy consumption to prepare the compressed air and that this consumption rises definitely with increasing loom width and running speed. The reduction in the energy consumption is in fact one of the main concerns of the manufacturers, and builds for the user an important selection criterion. S.NO. TYPES OF LOOMS NO. OF LOOMS 1 JACQUARD 18 ( air-jet – 2, rapier – 16) 2 DOBBY 325 3 PLAIN 32
  • 43. For shedding mechanism jacquard and dobby machines were in use. There were 18 jacquard and 325 dobby machines. JACQUARD SHEDDING MACHINE: The name Jacquard machines originates from the designer who improved its operation; today the name ″Jacquard″ is used to identify all machines with a capacity higher than 28-32 threads, which are therefore used to produce figured fabrics. Jacquard machines were initially classified as follows:  Jacquard machines  Vincenzi machines  Verdol machines At present only Verdol machines and electronic Jacquard machines are still on the market. Jacquard machines can be classified as follows: According to card reading system:  dobbies with endless pattern card reading system  dobbies with electronic reading system Electronic Jacquard In these machines the traditional hooks have been replaced by electro-mechanically operated modules which are driven and controlled by an electronic program. The Jacquard machines available on the market are double lift machines and have in respect to mechanical Jacquard machines following advantages:  easy maintenance owing to following reasons:  no point needing lubrication,  few moving parts  modular construction and thus easy access;  low vibration even at high speed;
  • 44. reduced setting time, as the machine is electronically controlled and therefore no paper is needed.  Machine model – gamMax Picanol  Speed of air-jet loom – 650 rpm  Speed of rapier loom – 400 rpm  Cost of loom – Rs. 4,00,000  Cost of jacquard – Rs. 4,50,000  Jacquard made for Home furnishings  Yarns used – viscose,polyester,chennile  Design repeat – 14.28”  Fabric/loom width – 72”  Maximum jaqcuard hook capacity – 2688 hooks • design hook capacity(body) – 2400 (rest 288 in selvedge) PRINCIPLE & CONSTRUCTION OF JACQUARD LOOM  Principle : electromagnetic principle  Electronic programming file(EPF) used for making design  Soft wares used : Textronic,ANDX,SOPHIS  CONSTRUCTION:  52 solenoid boards are present in each jacquard machine  24 solenoids/board
  • 45.  2 hooks attached between two solenoids on the board  Each hook has a stopper which limits its updown movement.  A belt is attached to the ends of the two hooks( top belt)  The top belt holds a pulley which in turn is attached to a bottom belt  The bottom belt is connected to the harness(wire or rope)  The harness is attached to the heald wire of the loom through which warp passes. WORKING OF JACQUARD  The solenoid attracts the hook as soon as it gets an electronic signal.  The hook follows an updown movement according to the command from the CPU.  The hook in turn leads to the movement of the harness and hence the loom.  Thus weaving takes place according to the fed design. DOBBY SHEDDING MACHINE Dobbies are used for the production of plain or flat fabrics, that is of fabrics characterized by maximum 28-32 threads in the weave repeat. Operation principle of a dobby Today the rotary dobby is, from the technological point of view, the most advanced dobby available on the market. It consists of a central shaft on which the driving bars are positioned. On a follower ring an eccentric plate is mounted; the plate is constrained within a block which is pivoted with the control levers of the rods. Under normal working conditions, that is with the heald frames in bottom position, there is no connection between the follower ring and the plate; the connection can be obtained by inserting a slider which runs in proper guides.
  • 46. The central shaft is driven by a modulator which has two stop times situated each other at 180 degrees ; at this very moment the key can be controlled according to the design to be produced. CORDUROY • Corduroy is a textile composed of twisted fibers that, when woven, lie parallel (similar to twill) to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord”. • The width of the cord is commonly referred to as the size of the "wale" (i.e. the number of ridges per inch). • Corduroy is made by weaving extra sets of fiber into the base fabric to form vertical ridges called wales. • The float is cut and then brushed. • Chemicals used for smoothening the rib pressed during finishing are siligen and turbingal. Corduroy is made mostly from cotton. Long wefts span several warp and when the weft is cut it creates the familiar high raised lines or cords with fine backing fabric lines between. The cords lines run the length of the warp. Like velvet, corduroy should be cut in one direction only when making a garment or using heavier elephant cords in upholstery. This material is used to produce casual wear such as trousers, jeans, caps and jackets. It often has other names such as corded velveteen,
  • 47. elephant cord, pin cord, Manchester cloth as it was produced as a Manchester cotton textile and worn originally by poorer workers in the same way that fustian was used. Manchester cloth was very good quality with dense pile but is virtually impossible to obtain today. Cotton corduroy today is often mixed with Lycra to make the fabric easier to wear and retain shape. Weave Wash Dye Grey Bleach Finish folding Cut Brush Brush Brush Inspect Fold Pack The principles of constructing a corduroy fabric:  The weave contains two pile picks a, b and two ground picks 1, 2. The ground picks 1, 2 interlace with warp forming the ground weave. Arrangement of ground pick and pile pick is 1:2. The pile pick floats over five
  • 48. warp threads which are convenient for cutting process. The pile picks interlace with the warp threads 5, 6 for binding the piles where the intersections are called pile roots.  After weaving, the pile weft was cut by specially constructed knives between the warp threads 2 and 3 (where the arrow points in Fig. 8.1). Then, brushing it, the piles will be upright, forming a full bulky band corduroy. Working of a corduroy cutting machine:  The circular knife is placed on a mandril A indicated by the arrow.  As the knives revolve, fabric advances towards in the direction indicated by an arrow F.  A guide wire E is inserted in the fabric under the long weft floats. The guide wires have these functions: 1) guiding the weft floats forming a loop-like: “race” to the
  • 49. knives, and tautening them when they are cut, and 2) keeping the knives in the centre of each “race”. As the uncut fabric approaches, the knives guide wires are conveyed along by it, and consequently require to be pushed forward again intermittently. This is accomplished by a series of spirally arranged rotary cams. No. of machines at Bharat Vijay Mills: Cutting : 12 (capacity 700m/shift) Brushing : 2 (capacity 5000m/shift) Inspection : 4 No. of workers: 56 In inspection of corduroy, there were two workers per inspection machine.
  • 50. GREY FOLDING • Fabrics comes to Grey folding after weaving. • They are checked, mended and sorted here. • The fabric comes with a lot card and is maintained by a register containing lot no., sort no, date, bandha kg, meters, Finish width, contract no, grey width, buyer, pallet no, number of pieces, sample etc. • Capacity: 50,000 m/ shift • No. of workers: 85 • No. of mending m/c: 14
  • 51. DYEING & PROCESSING PRETREATMENT Pretreatment can be defined as a series of cleaning processes or operations that make the fabric fit for the preceding process i.e. dyeing & printing. Pretreatment processes should ensure:  the removal of foreign materials from the fibres in order to improve their uniformity, hydrophilic characteristics and affinity for dyestuffs and finishing treatments  the improvement of the ability to absorb dyes uniformly (which is the case in mercerising)  the relaxation of tensions in synthetic fibres (without this relaxation of tension, unevenness and dimension instabilities can occur). Before dyeing a fabric or yarn some pre-treatment and after treatment is needed. Cotton pretreatment includes various wet operations, namely: • Singeing • Desizing • Scouring • Mercerising (and caustification) • Bleaching. 1) Singeing • Protruding fibre ends at the fabric surface disturb the surface appearance and produce an effect known as "frosting" when dyed. It is therefore necessary to remove the surface fibres by passing the fabric through a gas flame. • The fabric is passed over a row of gas flames and then immediately into a quench bath to extinguish the sparks and cool the fabric.
  • 52. The quench bath often contains a desizing solution, in which case the final step in singeing becomes a combined singeing and desizing operation. • Brushing was done to remove the remaining burnt fiber. • Flame was perpendicular to the fabric and can be 1.5 to 4 mm from the end of the flame. • Natural gas (ONGC) was used • Temperature < 90 degrees • Speed is 80m/min. • No. of machines – 1 Objective:  Increase wettability, better dyeing characteristics, improved reflection, no frosty look.  Improved visibility of the fabric.  Less pilling  Decreased contamination through the removal of fluff and lint. There are three types of singeing:  Plate singeing  Roller singeing  Gas singeing It is a continuous process carried out on dry open width fabric.It may be done on one side or both sides. 2) Desizing • Desizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp yarns in woven fabrics. • Sizes are applied to the warp yarns to assist in the weaving process. Objective:  Removal of added impurities like starch.
  • 53.  Weight loss  Improved wettability. Rot steep Enzymatic Hydrolytic steep Acid steep Desiging Chlorite oxidative chlorine Bromite • Enzymatic desizing was done i.e. enzymes were used to remove the size from the fabric. The enzymatic process depends on the quantity of enzyme molecules per gram of fabric, while the thermal stability of the enzyme depends on the bacteria strain from which it originates. Sizes are removed so that chemical penetration of the fabric in later stages(Dyeing ,Printing & finishing)is not inhibited.  No. of machines – 1  Speed of machine – 80 m/min  Reaction time – 6-8 hrs  Washing in hot wash (95 degrees) 3) Scouring It is the process of removing natural impurities present in the cotton fibre. The natural impurities are pectin’s, pectos, ash, wax, mineral compounds, etc. if those impurities present in the cotton fibres are not removed, then it will be difficult to dye or print the fabric uniformly. Normally caustic soda ash is used as main reagent fro scouring of cotton fabric.
  • 54. Objective:  To remove natural fat, wax, oil materials containing in the fabrics without damaging the fibres.  To accelerate dye and chemical absorption of the fabrics.  To improve the handle of the goods. • done using NaOH and hot water(96-97 degree celcius) under high pressure • time- 15-20 minutes 4) Bleaching It is the process of removing natural coloring matters present in the cotton fibre. For his purpose, hydrogen peroxide, bleaching powder or other bleaching agents are used. Hydrogen peroxide is the best and most commonly used bleaching agent. If this bleaching treatment is not carried out before dyeing or printing hen the color yield and shade matching may be a great problem. Objective:  To whiten the goods.  To make the goods suitable for dyeing and printing with pale or bright shade.  To be follow with adding optical brightening agent process(super white) There are two types of bleaching:  Hydrogen peroxide  Sodium hypochlorite. Recipe  Hydrogen peroxide, wetting agent, caustic, stabilizer  NaOH (pH 10.5 to 11)  Sequesterant  Temperature: 95-100 C  Speed of machine – 60-80m/min
  • 55. Drying of fabric was done using heated rollers which had steam inside it. No. of rollers – 28 5) Mercerization It is a special chemical pre-treatment on cotton fabric t improves the properties and performance of cotton fabric. The cotton fabric is treated under tension in the 20% caustic soda solution which is called mercerization many properties of cotton fabric is improved, some of them are mentioned below: • Increases fabric strength • Increases absorbency power • Increases fabric luster • Increases fabric softness and handle property • Reduces dye consumption • Reduces chemical consumption in dyeing Two types of machines are used at Bharat Vijay Mills:  Chain system  Cylinder system Objective:  Increases lusture  Strength  Affinity to dye  Resistance to mild dew  Lint reduction Mercerization of fabrics is performed using NaOH(22- 25%) Tension is applied to the fabrics in the vertical direction with a tension cylinder, and in the horizontal direction with a clip tenter. The processing time by the cylinder and the tenter in total is 30 to 60 seconds. NaOH applied in impregnator and temperature kept low(15-20degrees) for luster.
  • 56. Then fabric washed in hot wash in 4 chambers. Mercerized fabric is then dried. Speed of machine – 40-50 m/min DYEING Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye. FABRIC DYEING (piece dyeing) In piece dyeing, which is used primarily for fabrics that are to be a solid color, a continuous length of dry cloth is passed full-width through a trough of hot dye solution. The cloth then goes between padded rollers that squeeze in the color evenly and removes the excess liquid. In one variation of this basic method, the fabric, in a rope- like coil, is processed on a reel that passes in and out of a dye beck or vat. Types of dyeing The following are the basic types of fabric dyeing machines: 1) Batch dyeing machine 2) Semi-continuous dyeing machine 3) Continuous dyeing machine 1) Batch dyeing Batch Dyeing Process is the most popular and common method used for dyeing of textile materials. Batch dyeing is also sometimes referred to as Exhaust dyeing. This is because in this process, the dye gets slowly transferred from a comparatively large volume dyebath to the substrate or material that is to be dyed. The time taken is also longer. The dye is meant to 'exhaust' from dyebath to the substrate. In batch processes,
  • 57. textile substrates can be easily dyed at any stage of their assembly into the desired textile product. This includes fiber, yarn, fabric or garment. Some type of batch dyeing machines can function at temperatures only up to 1000oC. For example cotton, rayon, nylon, wool etc. can be dyed at 1000oC or lower temperatures. While polyester and some other synthetic fibers are dyed at 1000 Centigrade or even higher temperatures. There are three general types of batch dyeing machines. The first type is the one where there is circulation of fabric. Second type is the one where the dyebath gets circulated while the material that is being dyed remains stationary, and finally the third type where both the bath and material to be dyed gets circulated. The following are the types of batch dyeing processes: 1)Beck dyeing 2) Jet dyeing(soft flow dyeing machine) 3) Jigger dyeing machine Image showing Popular machines utilizing the batch dyeing method illustrated above. For any dyers the ultimate dream is to get the maximum out of the process of dyeing, at minimal cost. For a batch dyeing process the following techniques can prove to be effective for optimum utilization.
  • 58. Use machinery that are fitted with latest state-of-the-art automatic controllers of fill volume, temperature and other dyeing cycle parameters, indirect system of cooling and heating, innovative hoods and doors that lessens vapour losses.  Choosing the machinery that is exactly sized for the batch that needs to be processed. Also confirmation that it is operated exactly within the specified range of nominal liquor ratios for which it is designed. It has been seen that machines that are operated with a consistent liquor ratio while being loaded at 60 percent level of their nominal capacity gives optimum results. With yarn dyeing machines this level can stretch to even 30% of the nominal capacity.  Opting new machineries that adheres to the following requirements: o Liquor ratio that is low-or-ultra-low. o Complete in process separation of bath from substrate. o Mechanism that involves smooth internal separation of process liquor from the washing liquor. o Mechanical liquor extraction that brings the carry-over to minimum and improves washing efficiency. o A reduced cycle duration.  Replacement of conventional overflow-flood rinsing method with methods like drain and fill or other methods (for example smart rinsing for fabric).  Proper re-use of rinsed water for the next dyeing session.  Re-use of the dye bath if technical considerations allows. At Bharat Vijay Mills, the following machines were used for batch dyeing: (i)Jigger dyeing machine  Fabric is dyed in its open or full width and hence there is no problem of creasing during dyeing.  The machine consists of a small tub and two drawing rollers located above the dye bath.  First the fabric is wound around one of the rollers. During dyeing the
  • 59. fabric is passed though the dye bath and rewound onto the second roller.  When the complete fabric is passed though the bath, the direction of fabric movement is reversed and this is repeated until the fabric is dyed completely.  During dyeing, tension is imparted along the length of the fabric.  Suitable for light weight and delicate fabrics.  Liquor ratio is low(1:2 to 1:6)  Used for dyeing fabric in small lots.  Contact time between fabric and dye liquor is more in jigger than other dyeing machines. At BHARAT VIJAY MILLS:  No. of machines – 5(200 kg – 1 machine, 800kg – 4 machine)  Maximum speed – 100m/min (ii) Soft flow dyeing machine In this machine the fabric being dyed is circulated through the dyeing machine on a jet flow of dye bath. The high speed dye liquor jet carries the fabric rope along, from one end of dye vessel to the other end. Less water,energy,time and chemicals are required in this machine as compared to other dyeing machine. It is used for dyeing of delicate woven or knits, textured and light weight fabrics. The liquor ratio is very low(1:1) At BHARAT VIJAY MILLS:  No. of machines – 1  Model – fong’s
  • 60. Fabric cycle time 1 to 10 min.*  Chamber capacity 100 to 300 kg*  Speed of water – 600 rpm 2) Semi continuous dyeing In the process of semi-continuous dyeing that consists of pad-batch, pad-jig, pad-roll the fabric is first impregnated with the dye-liquor in, what is called a padding machine. Then it is subjected to batch wise treatment in a jigger. It could also be stored with a slow rotation for many hours. In the pad-batch this treatment is done at room temperature while in pad-roll it is done at increased temperature by employing a heating chamber. This helps in fixation of the dyes on to the fibre. After this fixation process, the material in full width is thoroughly cleansed and rinsed in continuous washing machines. There is only one point of difference between Continuous and semi-continuous dyeing process is that in semi-continuous dyeing, the dye is applied continuously by a padding. The fixation and washing remaining discontinuous. Liquor Ratio in semi-continuous dyeing is not of much importance and is not taken as a parameter. One of the widely used techniques for semi-continuous dyeing process is the Pad Batch Dyeing a schematic diagram is given here for the semi-continuous dyeing process. The following table shows some of the important machineries for semi-continuous and continuous dyeing processes.  Pad batch dyeing Pad Batch Dyeing is one of the widely used technique for semi-continuous dyeing process. It is mainly used in the dyeing of cellulosic fibre like cotton or viscose (knit and
  • 61. woven fabric) with reactive dyes. Pad batch dyeing is a textile dyeing process that offers some unique advantages in the form of versatility, simplicity, and flexibility and a substantial reduction in capital investment for equipment. It is primarily a cold method that is the reason why it is sometimes referred to as the cold pad batch dyeing. Working of a cold dyeing process The technique or process used in pad-batch dyeing starts with saturating first the prepared fabric with pre-mixed dye liquor. Then it is passed through rollers. The rollers, or padders, effectively forces the dyestuff into the fabric. In the process, excess dye solution is also removed. After removal of excess dye stuff the fabric is subsequently "batched". This batching is done by either storing it in rolls or in boxes. It takes a minimum of 4-12 hours. The batches are generally enclosed by plastic films. This prevents absorption of carbon dioxide and water evaporation. Finally as the reaction is complete the fabrics are washed. This is done by becks, beams, or any other washing devices. Special features of pad batch dyeing process  Significant cost and waste reduction as compared to other conventional dyeing processes.  Total elimination of the need for salt and other specialty chemicals. For example there is no need for anti-migrants, leveling agents and fixatives that are necessary in conventional dyebaths.
  • 62. Optimum utilisation of dyes that eliminates specialty chemicals, cuts down chemical costs and waste loads in the effluent. All this results in a formidable reduction in wastewater treatment costs.  Excellent wet fastness properties.  Pad batch dyeing cuts energy and water consumption owing to low bath ratio (dye:water) required for the process. This is because unlike other dyeing processes it does not function at high temperatures.  A uniform dye quality is achieved with even color absorbency and colour fastness.  As compared to rope dyeing, Pad batch dyeing produces much lower defect levels.  In pad batch dyeing, qualities like high shade reliability and repeatability are common. This is because of high reactivity dyes with rapid fixation rate and stability.  Lastly Pad batch dyeing can also improve product quality. The fabric undergoing the cold pad batch dyeing process is able to retain an uniformly coloured appearance. It shows added luster and gives a gentle feel. The fabric gives a brighter look in shades. No. of machines in the mill: 3 3) Continuous dyeing The working of a continuous dyeing process is described here. The textile substrates are feeded continuously into a dye range. The speeds can vary between 50 to 250 meters per minute. According to Industry estimates Continuous dyeing is a popular dyeing method and accounts for around 60% of total yardage of the products that are dyed.
  • 63. A Continuous dyeing process typically consists the following. Dye application, dye fixation with heat or chemicals and finally washing. Continuous dyeing has been found to be most suitable for woven fabrics. Mostly continuous dye ranges are designed for dyeing blends of polyester and cotton. The step of padding plays a key role in the operation of continuous dyeing. Sometimes Nylon carpets are also dyed in continuous processes, but the design ranges for them is unlike that for flat fabrics. Warps are also dyed in continuous process. Very good examples of such warp dyeing are long chain warp dyeing and slasher dyeing using indigo. A continuous dye range has been found useful and economically sustainable for dyeing long runs of a given shade. One important factor that separates continuous dyeing from batch dyeing is the tolerance factor for color variation. That is more for continuous dyeing as compared to batch dyeing. This is so because of two reasons a) the speed of the process. b) presence of a large number of process variables which affects dye application. The process that is illustrated below is designed for dyeing of blended fabric of polyester and cotton.
  • 64. Some of the popular methods in continuous dyeing process are Pad-steam, Wet-steam, thermosol dyeing, TAK dyeing, space dyeing, and pad-steam dyeing long chain warp dyeing etc. Process Continuous and to some extent semi-continuous dyeing processes both are less prone to water consumption than batch dyeing, but results in high concentration of residues. If some strict control measures are taken up it is possible to reduce this losses of concentrated liquor. The following steps may prove useful.  Applying low add-on liquor application systems along with minimising of volume capacity of the dip through when pad dyeing techniques are in operation.  Adoption of latest dispensing systems, where the chemicals get dispensed on- line as separate streams. They gets mixed only at the moment just before the delivery to the applicator.  Using any of the following systems for dosing of the padding liquor. Important to know that it should be strictly according to the measurement of the pick up: o A proper measurement of the dyeing liquor quantity consumption in comparison to the processed fabric. The resulting values thus obtained are processed automatically and applied in preparing the next comparable batch. o Application of the technique of rapid batch dyeing. Here the dyestuff solution is prepared just in time, with steps that are based on on-line measurement of the pick up. This proves better than those dyestuff that is kept prepared already for the whole batch before the commencement of the dyeing batch.
  • 65. To increase washing efficiency based on the proven principles like reduction of carry-over and counter-current washing. At Bharat Vijay Mills, the following continuous dyeing machines were used: (i) Pad dry dyeing machine No. of machines at BVM – 1 Machine model – kusters calico machinery DYE BATH Dye =10 g/l Antimigrant =10 g/l Reduction inhibitor =10 g/l CHEMICAL RECIPE Caustic soda (48 Be) = 4-8 g/l Soda ash = 10 g/l Salt = 250 g/l PROCEDURE  Prepare dye bath and auxiliary bath separately.  Pad the fabric in dye bath at 60 - 70 % pick up and then dry the fabric.  Then again pad the dyed piece of fabric in chemical bath at 80 % pick up and put it in steam for 1.5 min. (ii) Pad steam dyeing machine No. of machines at BVM – 1 Machine model – kusters calico machinery RECIPE Dye = 10 g/l Glaubar salt =10 g /l Soda ash = 15 g/l
  • 66. Reduction inhibitor = 10 g/l PROCEDURE  Pad the fabric in dye bath at 60 – 70 % pick up.  Then steam the fabric for 1- 2 min WASHING Cold wash 30 – 40 ° C Warm wash 50 – 60 ° C Soaping with detergent 2g/l detergent at 90 -100 ° C Warm wash at 50 -60 ° C Cold wash 30 -40 ° C
  • 67. TESTING QUALITY CONTROL AND INSPECTION Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality increases the value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds up good reputation for the fabric manufacturer, which in turn results into consumer satisfaction, high sales and foreign exchange for the country. The perceived quality of a fabric is the result of a number of aspects, which together help achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer. Therefore quality control in terms of garment, pre-sales service, posts –sales service, delivery, pricing, etc are essentials for any fabric manufacturer. Quality control at BHARAT VIJAY MILLS At Bharat Vijay Mills, quality control commences from raw material procurement. They use eco-friendly dyes and chemicals that are sourced from reputed companies. Their fully computerized quality-control laboratory checks everything from fibre to fabric to chemicals, dyes and auxiliaries. AATCC (American Association of textile chemist and colorist) and ASTM (American society for testing and materials) standards are followed at Bharat Vijay mills for quality control and testing of fabrics. 4 – Point inspection system was followed for inspection of fabrics. This numeric grading system is endorsed by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), The American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and the European Clothing Manufacturing Association (ECMA).
  • 68. Length of defects (in inches) Points < 3” 1 3”to 6” 2 6” to 9” 3 > 9” 4 Diameter of holes (in inches) Points <1 2 >= 1 4 Points calculation in 4 point system: Defect points per sq. meter = total points X 10,000 (Fabric width in cms X total length inspected in meters) • Maximum no. of points in any one linear yard is 4 regardless of no. of defects. • Grading irrespective of end use • Not sensitive to width variations of the fabric • Does not consider defects in inconspicuous areas (patterns/markers) • No standard viewing conditions
  • 69. Fabric defects Askewed or Bias: condition where filling yarns are not square with warp yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not square with wale lines on knits. Bowing: Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lien in an arc across fabric width. Broken Color Pattern: Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame. Crease Streak: Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process. Jerk-in: caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage. Knots: caused by tying spools of yarn together. Missing Yarn: Occurs in warp knit. Reuslts from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye. Mixed End (yarn): Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric Open Reed: results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns on warp and shuttle Pin Holes: Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through tenter frame.
  • 70. Puckered Selvage: Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or by uneven wetting out in sanforization process Sanforize Pucker: Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; usually caused by defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting table. Difficult to detect while inspecting on inspection machine with fabric under roller tension. Scrimp: the result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through tenter frames. Slub: usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process. Smash: caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired. Soiled Filling or End: Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or on packaged-dyed yarn. Stop Mark: when the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when the loom starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric. Thin Place: Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run until the operator notices the problem Types of testing in Bharat Vijay Mills: FIBER TESTING: Raw material represents about 50 to 70% of the production cost of a short-staple yarn. This fact is sufficient to indicate the significance of the rawmaterial for the yarn
  • 71. producer. It is not possible to use a problem-free raw material always , because cotton is a natural fibre and there are many properties which will affect the performance. The basic chareteristics of cotton fibre  Fibre length  Maturity  Fineness  Rigidity  Strength YARN TESTING: Yarn occupies the intermediate position in the manufacture of fabric from raw material. Yarn results are therefore essential, both for estimating the quality of rawmaterial and for controlling the quality of fabric produced. The important characteristics of yarn being tested are:  Yarn twist  Yarn elongation  Linear density  Yarn evenness  Yarn strength  Yarn hairness FABRIC TESTING: The textile industry is becoming an increasingly competitive environment. Differentiating products is therefore important and this can be facilitated through improving quality. Testing can be used to improve product quality and achieve compliance to international, regional or retailer specific standards. Various testing instruments in Bharat Vijay Mills: 1) Cotton testing machine – Uster 6) Cotton trash analyzer HVI 900 7) Trash separator 2) Count strength product(CSP) 8) Fabric Strength tester 3) Single yarn strength tester 9) GSM tester 4) Uniformity tester-Uster tester-4- SX 10) Wrap reel 5) Fault Tester – Uster classimat – 3 11) Yarn twist tester 12) Tearing tester
  • 72. Cotton testing machine – Uster HVI 900: It is used to determine the fibre length, length uniformity and short fibre index  Monitoring the fibre length is essential to producing yarn that meets your quality needs.  The USTER FIBROSAMPLER measures properties of fibre samples taken from bales and card mat.  Because interrelationships between fibre properties dictate that long cottons are also strong cottons, fibre length has a substantial impact on yarn evenness, yarn strength, and spinnability. Single yarn strength tester: Technical Specifications Tensile strength and elongation are the two prime characteristics of most of the raw materials. Technical Data :  Capacity Of The Tester : 5 Kg, Acc. 1 g, 30 Kg, Acc. 5 g  Speed Of Traverse : 300 mm/min.  Motor : ¼ H.P. 230 volts AC.  Gripping Distance : Minimum – 8” and Maximum -20”  Elongation : 80 – 100%  Over Load Safety : Provided
  • 73. Uniformity tester - Uster tester-4-SX To check the slightest deviation in evenness of yarn.  The USTER TESTER-4-SX is an indispensable instrument for quality control of filament yarns and has long become a synonym for the highest precision standards.  Even the smallest fluctuation in evenness is very important in filament yarns, and this makes the difference between profitable and non-profitable production.  The spectrogram of the capacitive measurement makes every periodical fault in the spinning machine and the spinning process immediately visible.  Test speeds of up to 800 m/min is ensured. Fault Tester – Uster classimat – 3 To measure the yarn faults.  It checks for cleared and unclear yarn, providing perfect classification of thick and thin places, as well as checking infrequently occurring yarn defects.  Determining infrequently occurring yarn faults in 23 classes.  Monitoring yarn counts, measurement of length and weight.  Compare your measuring results with the international quality benchmarks directly on the screen. This way, you always have your desired quality standard under control. Cotton trash analyzer: This Trash Analyser is well known and well proven machine in the Textile Industry for many decades and established its maintenance free performance in
  • 74. determining the Trash and contamination content in any type of cotton and established its fact as more suitable for industrial Purpose in Cotton Textile Mills. Fabric Strength tester: This instrument is a robust motor driven floor model machine which records breaking strength and elongation at break point with graph facility. GSM tester: Sample cutters are designed to cut fabric samples to determine the GSM. Sample cutter is applicable to Woven, Knitted & Non-Woven Fabrics.  Sample cutter is used to determine accurately the GSM (Grams per square meter) of any type of fabrics.  Ergonomic latest design with modern aesthetics.  Smooth precision engineered components for excellent performance.  Stainless steel blade holders for lifelong excellent operations.  Complete with all accessories along with four special rubberized foam cutting pad for smooth cutting & long life of the blades & two sets of cutting blades.  Weight: 1.7 Kgs  Dimension:
  • 75. Diameter Height 160 mm 110 mm 6.25 inch 4.3 inch Wrap reel:  Used to make lea of yarn.  Digital control panel with resettable revolution counter.  Supplied with a wheels-1mtr or 1.5yds perimeter.  Bobbin holding stand can accommodate bobbins dia up to 100mm.  Five leas can be made together.  Complete with all accessories. Yarn twist tester:  Single yarn twist tester used to make lea of yarn.  Smooth precision engineered components for excellent performance.  Supplied with a wheels-1mtr or 1.5yds perimeter.  Bobbin holding stand can accommodate bobbins dia up to 100mm.  Five leas can be made together.  Complete with all accessories.
  • 76. Tearing tester :  Tearing strength tester to determine tearing strength of knitted and woven fabrics.  Capacity up to 6.400Kgs.  With adjustable cutting knife.  Having three variable capacity 1.600kg, 3.200kg & 6.400kg for different type of fabrics.  Latest design with modern sophisticated look.  Complete with accessories including three calibration weights. DYEING LAB 1) DATA COLOR DISPENSER 2) YARN DYEING MACHINE 3) COLOR COMPUTER MATCHING 4) COLOR MATCHING MACHINE: DATA COLOR DISPENSER: It is design for Textile Laboratory where speed accuracy and repeatability are the primary focus.
  • 77. Features:  Accurate temperature sensor and controller ensures that the hot water is always at the required temperature  Anti-wind doors ensures that the accuracy of the preparation of solutions is not affected by external influences  Moveable dispense head allows easy addition of dyestuff to the solution bottles, and also allows the use of different size bottles  Automatic hot water and cold water tank refill valves ensures that supply of water is always readily available  The use of 4 dispense valves, 3 cold water and 1 hot water, ensures fast preparation of the solutions  A small footprint ensures the system does not take up a large amount of laboratory space  Spacious dispense area ensures easy access to the solution bottles for the addition of dyestuffs or chemicals  More accurate solutions  Precise weighing of dyestuffs up to 1000th of a decimal  Automated, error-free procedures. COLOR COMPUTER MATCHING: The basic three things are important in CCMS: 1. Color measurement Instrument (Spectrophotometers). 2. Reflectance (R%) from a mixture of Dyes or Pigments applied in a specific way. 3. Optical model of color vision to closeness of the color matching.
  • 78. Functions of Computer Color Matching System: 1. Color match prediction. 6. Cost Comparison. 2. Color difference calculation. 7. Strength evaluation of dyes. 3. Determine metamerism. 8. Whiteness indices. 4. Pass/Fail option. 9. Reflectance curve and K/S curve. 5. Color –fastness rating. 10. Production of Shade library. Etc. Advantages of Computer Color Matching System (CCMS) Computer Color Matching System (CCMS) has lots of great advantages in Textile Industry. 1. Customers get the exact shade wanted with his knowledge of degree of metamerism. 2. Customers often have a choice of 10-20 formulation that will match color. By taking costing, availability of dyes, and auxiliaries into account, one can choose a best swatch. 3. 3 to 300 times faster than manual color matching. 4. Limited range of stock color needed. Colour Matching Machine: Colour Matching Machine is designed to evaluate the colour matching of fabrics, yarns or any coloured materials. Color Matching machine checks matching under a standard light source in a closed environment to minimize the interference of external lights Fastness testing equipments: 1) Crock Meter 3) Launderometer 2) Light fastness tester 4) Perspirometer
  • 79. Crock Meter:  Crock Meter is used to determine the Colour Fastness of Textiles to Dry or Wet Rubbing as per ISO/AATCC Standards.  Ergonomic design of crock meter which meets ISO/AATCC requirements.  Steel Sample Holder for rapid sample mounting.  Mechanical type, re-settable Counter.  Light in weight for mobility.  Complete with all accessories including 1000 crocking clothes of ISO/AATCC,  Supplied With Inspection and Calibration Certificate. Light fastness tester: A test specimen together with blue wool standards is exposed to the light from a MBTL fading Lamp. The Colour Fastness of the specimen is assessed by comparing its fastness with that of 1 – 8 Blue Wool Standards. Equipment : Digital light fastness teser consists of a hollow cylinder of metal open at both ends with an internal diameter of 18” and length of 18”. A 500 W MBTL fading lamp is mounted centrally so that the light distribution is constant around the circumference. An hour meter with buzzer and hour totalizer are mounted on the base. Four specimen holders are installed at equidistance in inner circumference of cylinder alongwith metal sheet mask to cover half of each test
  • 80. specimen and the standards. As temperature may touch 800 C constant cooling arrangement with water flow is provided. A horizontal pump and water tank are included in scope of supply. Testing Standards Required :  1 to 8 Blue Wool Light Fastness Standard of ISO  Grey Scale of Change in Colour of ISO Launderometer:  Micro processor based temp control and timer.  40 RPM  Heating Medium Water (99°C max)  Available with 8 beakers of 500ml: and also as per custom design. Perspirometer:  Perspiration tester to determine colorfastness to perspiration.  Ergonomic latest design with modern aesthetics.  Smooth precision engineered components for excellent performance.