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2. Project Report
On
Submitted by
Miss. Mohini A. Donode
(Bachelor of Textile Science, III Year)
Under the Guidance of
Mrs. Snehal Rohadkar
“TEXTILE MANUFACTUTING”
(FIBRE TO FABRIC)
BACHELOR OF TEXTILE SCIENCE
MAHALAXMI JAGDAMBA COLLAGE OF LIBRARY & INFORMATION SCEINCE
RASHTRASANT TUKDOJI MAHARAJ NAGPUR UNVIVERSITY,
NAGPUR.2018-2019
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3. “TEXTILE MANUFACTUTING”
(FIBRE TO FABRIC)
CERTIFICATE
Is a record of dissertation work
Carried out by
Miss. Mohini A. Donode
Submitted in the partial fulfilment of requirement
For the degree of Bachelor of Textile Science
Of R.T.M. Nagpur university.
MAHALAXMI JAGDAMBA COLLAGE OF LIBRARY & INFORMATION SCEINCE
RASHTRASANT TUKDOJI MAHARAJ NAGPUR UNVIVERSITY,
NAGPUR.2018-2019
Mrs. Snehal Rohadkar
Guide
Mrs. Rakshta Mankar
Principal
Mrs. Meghna Polkat
Head of
Department
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4. Acknowledgements
I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude towards every
who helped me through the making of this project.
It was golden opportunity for these project and each step is a learning
process of one life. Each opportunity that we get adds something to our
personality.
To being with I must acknowledge the wholehearted support I received
from Mrs. Snehal Rohadkar.
I am also thankful to Principle Rakshta Mankar for their valuable
guidance. Mahalaxmi Jagdamba Mahavidhylaya Nagpur.
I would like to express thanks to H.O.D Mrs. Meghna Polkat My outmost
thanks to all the staff members for their valuable support,
encouragement, guidance and suggestion during the Project
Finally I thank to all my friends and each and every member for their
unfailing, valuable suggestion, support & assistance.
Miss. Mohini A. Bonode
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5. CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
(Textile manufacturing)
SPINNING
Weaving
DYEING
PRINTING
FINISHING
GARMENTS
MANUFACTURING
CONCLUSION
01 - 02
03 - 07
08 - 16
17 - 23
24 - 28
29 - 39
40 - 42
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6. 1 | P a g e
INTRODUCTION
TEXTILE
MANUFACTURING
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7. 2 | P a g e
INTRODUCTION (Textile Manufacturing): -
Clothing is the basic human need. For hiding shame and also protecting from the
inclemency of weather clothing is essential for human being. Clothing is the final
product of textile manufacturing. Textile manufacturing or production is a very
complex process. The range of textile manufacturing is so long. It starts from fiber to
finished products.
Textile manufacturing is a major industry. It is based on the conversion
of fiber into yarn, yarn into fabric. These are then dyed or printed, fabricated
into clothes. Different types of fibers are used to produce yarn. Cotton remains the
most important natural fiber, so is treated in depth. There are many variable
processes available at the spinning and fabric-forming stages coupled with the
complexities of the finishing and colouration processes to the production of a wide
ranges of products. There remains a large industry that uses hand techniques to
achieve the same results.
Textile industry is one of the few basic industries, which is characterised as a
necessary component of human life. One may classify it as a more glamorous
industry, but whatever it is, it provides with the basic requirement called clothes.
There are numerous kinds of fibres and other raw materials, which are used to
produce a cloth. This paper provides an insight about the basics of textiles and the
terms that are used all around the world in context of textile industry. Regarding
study of textile fabrics, meaning of the word textile must be made quite clear. The
dictionary states that the word is derived from the Latin word texere1 to weave, but a
wider meaning of weaving must be accepted since it is one of the various ways to
produce textile fabrics. The initial stage of textile manufacturing involves the
production of the raw material either by farmers who raise cotton, sheep, silkworms,
or flax or by chemists who produce fibre from various basic substances by chemical
processes. The fibre is spun into yarn, which is then converted into fabric in a
Weaving or knitting mill. After dyeing and finishing, the woven material is ready for
delivery either directly to manufacturer of textile products where they are finally
stitched into clothes.
INTRODUCTION
1
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8. 3 | P a g e
SPINNING
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9. 4 | P a g e
Most spinning today is done using Break or Open-end spinning, this is a
technique where the staples are blown by air into a rotating drum, where they
attach themselves to the tail of formed yarn that is continually being drawn out
of the chamber. Other methods of break spinning uses needles
and electrostatic forces. This method has replaced the older methods of ring
and mule spinning. It is also easily adapted for artificial fibres.
The spinning machines takes the roving, thins it and twists it, creating yarn
which it winds onto a bobbin.
In mule spinning the roving is pulled off a bobbin and fed through some
rollers, which are feeding at several different speeds. This thins the roving at a
consistent rate. If the roving was not a consistent size, then this step could
cause a break in the yarn, or could jam the machine. The yarn is twisted
through the spinning of the bobbin as the carriage moves out, and is rolled
onto a cylinder called a spindle, which then produces a cone-shaped bundle
of fibres known as a "cop", as the carriage returns. Mule spinning produces a
finer thread than the less skilled ring spinning.
Flow Chart of Spinning
Blowroom
↓
Carding
↓
Drawing
↓
Combing
↓
Drawing
↓
Roving Manufacturing
↓
Ring Spinning
2
SPINNING
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10. 5 | P a g e
Basic Operations in the Blowroom | Actions in the Blowroom
Section
Blow Room:
The section where the supplied compressed bale is turnt into a uniform lap of particular
length by opening, cleaning, blending or mixing is called blow room section. It is the
first steps of spinning.
Blow room section
Operations in the Blowroom
1. Opening
2. Cleaning
3. Dust Removal
4. Blending
5. Even feed of material to the card
Opening
The first operation required in the blowroom line is opening, carried out to the stage of tufts
– in contrast to the cards, where it is performed to the stage of individual fibers. Tuft weight
can be reduced to about 0,1 mg in the blowroom. The small improvements by each of the
subsequent machines are obtained only by considerable additional effort, stressing of the
material, unnecessary fiber loss and a striking increase in neppiness. If necessary the card is
able to assume rather more of the overall task.
Cleaning
It has to be kept in mind that impurities can only be eliminated from surfaces of tufts.
Within a progressive line of machines it is therefore necessary to create new surfaces
continuously by opening the material. And even then the best blowroom line is not able to
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11. 6 | P a g e
eliminate all, or even almost all, of the foreign matter in the raw material. A blowroom
installation removes approximately 40 - 70% of the impurities. The result is dependent on
the raw material, the machines and the environmental conditions.
It is clear from this diagram that the cleaning effect cannot and should not be the same for
all impurity levels, since it is easier to remove a high percentage of dirt from a highly
contaminated material than from a less contaminated one. Looking at the machine, the
cleaning effect is a matter of adjustment. Increasing the degree of cleaning also increases
the negative effect on cotton when trying to improve cleaning by intensifying the operation,
and this occurs mostly exponentially. Therefore each machine in the line has an optimum
range of treatment.
Dust Removal
Almost all manufacturers of blowroom machinery now offer dust-removing machines or
equipment in addition to opening and cleaning machines. However, dust removal is not an
easy operation, since the dust particles are completely enclosed within the flocks and hence
are held back during suction (because the surrounding fibers act as a filter). Since, as shown
it is mainly the suction units that remove dust (in this example 64%), dust removal will be
more intensive the smaller the tufts.
It follows that dust elimination takes place at all stages of the spinning process.
Blending
Blending of fiber material is an essential preliminary in the production of a yarn. Fibers can
be blended at various stages of the process. These possibilities should always be fully
exploited, for example by Transverse doubling transverse doubling. However, the start of
the process is one of the most important stages for blending, since the individual
components are still separately available and therefore can be metered exactly and without
dependence upon random effects. A well-assembled bale layout and even (and as far as
possible simultaneous) extraction of fibers from all bales is therefore of the utmost
importance. Simultaneous extraction from all bales, which used to be normal in
conventional blending batteries, is now no longer possible (automatic bale openers).
Accordingly, intensive blending in a suitable blending machine must be carried out after
separate tuft extraction from individual bales of the layout. This blending operation must
collect the bunches of fibers arriving sequentially from individual bales and mix them
thorough.
Even Feed of Material to the Card
Finally, the blowroom must ensure that raw material is evenly delivered to the cards.
Previously, this was carried out by means of precisely weighed laps from the scutcher, but
automatic tuft feeding installations are used nowadays. While in the introductory phase
such installations were subject to problems regarding evenness of tuft delivery, today they
generally operate well.
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 Checking.
This is the process where each of the bobbins is rewound to give a tighter bobbin.
 Folding and twisting
Plying is done by pulling yarn from two or more bobbins and twisting it together, in the
opposite direction that in which it was spun. Depending on the weight desired, the cotton
may or may not be plied, and the number of strands twisted together varies
 Gassing
Singe § Textiles, and Gassing (textile process)
Gassing is the process of passing yarn, as distinct from fabric very rapidly through a
series of Bunsen gas flames in a gassing frame, in order to burn off the projecting fibres
and make the thread round and smooth and also brighter. Only the better qualities of
yarn are gassed, such as that used for voiles, poplins, venetians, gabardines, many
Egyptian qualities, etc. There is a loss of weight in gassing, which varies' about 5 to 8 per
cent., so that if a 2/60's yarn is required 2/56's would be used. The gassed yarn is darker
in shade afterwards, but should not be scorched.
Mule spinning
Ring spinning
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WEAVING
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14. 9 | P a g e
The weaving process uses a loom. The lengthway threads are known as the warp,
and the cross way threads are known as the weft. The warp which must be strong
needs to be presented to loom on a warp beam. The weft passes across the loom in
a shuttle, that carries the yarn on a pirn. These pirns are automatically changed by
the loom. Thus, the yarn needs to be wrapped onto a beam, and onto pirns before
weaving can commence.
Flow Chart of Weaving
Yarn from spinning section
↓
Doubling and Twisting
↓
Winding
↓
Creeling
↓
Warping
↓
Sizing
↓
Winding on weavers beam
↓
Weaving
 Winding
After being spun and plied, the cotton thread is taken to a warping room
where the winding machine takes the required length of yarn and winds it onto
warpers bobbins
 Warping or beaming
3
WEAVING
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15. 10 | P a g e
Racks of bobbins are set up to hold the thread while it is rolled onto the warp bar of a
loom. Because the thread is fine, often three of these would be combined to get the
desired thread count.
 Drawing in, Looming
The process of drawing each end of the warp separately through the dents of
the reed and the eyes of the healds, in the order indicated by the draft.
 Pirning (Processing the weft)
Pirn winding frame was used to transfer the weft from cheeses of yarn onto
the pirns that would fit into the shuttle
Sizing:
Size is a gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion form, applied normally to warp
yarns. It can sometimes be applied to weft yarns. Sizing is the process of applying the size material on
yarn. A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber together and stiffen
the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil, wax, and manufactured
polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, polyacrylic acid, and polyacetates are employed. The
process of applying sizing compounds. The process of weighing sample lengths of yarn to determine
the count. Now automation is used in sizing operation.
Objects of Sizing:
1. To protect the yarn from abrasion
2. To improve the breaking strength of the yarn
3. To increase smoothness of yarn
4. To increase yarn elasticity
5. To decrease hairiness
6. To decrease the generation of static electricity
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Types of Sizing:
1. Pure sizing: when the size pick up % is about 3 – 10 % it is called pure sizing.
2. Light sizing: when the size pick up % is about 11 -16% it is called light sizing.
3. Medium sizing: when the size pick up % is about 17 – 40 % it is called medium sizing.
4. Heavy sizing: when the size pick up % is above 40 % then it is called heavy sizing.
Disadvantages of Sizing:
 Cost of land and machine is high
 Requires lot of labors
 Requires utility like gas, electricity etc and their cost is high
 Cost of ingredients
 The process is long and it takes time
 There is a risk of degradation of yarn
 The yarn diameter is increased
 Requires robust loom
 It increases yarn stiffness
 The fabric needs to be desized before use
 Need knowledge and information about the size ingredients
 There is a risk of pollution
 Sizing changes the shade of colored yarn
 100% size material cannot be removed
 Size material presence leads to uneven dying
 Weaving
Power loom
At this point, the thread is woven. Depending on the era, one person could
manage anywhere from 3 to 100 machines. In the mid nineteenth century,
four was the standard number. A skilled weaver in 1925 would run
6 Lancashire Looms. As time progressed new mechanisms were added that
stopped the loom any time something went wrong. The mechanisms checked
for such things as a broken warp thread, broken weft thread, the shuttle going
straight across, and if the shuttle was empty. Forty of these Northrop
Looms or automatic looms could be operated by one skilled worker.
The three primary movements of a loom are shedding, picking, and beating-up.
A Draper loom in textile museum, Lowell, Massachusetts
 Shedding: The operation of dividing the warp into two lines, so that the
shuttle can pass between these lines. There are two general kinds of
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17. 12 | P a g e
sheds-"open" and "closed." Open Shed-The warp threads are moved
when the pattern requires it-from one line to the other. Closed Shed-The
warp threads are all placed level in one line after each pick.
 Picking:The operation of projecting the shuttle from side to side of the
loom through the division in the warp threads. This is done by the overpick
or underpick motions. The overpick is suitable for quick-running looms,
whereas the underpick is best for heavy or slow looms.
 Beating-up: The third primary movement of the loom when making cloth,
and is the action of the reed as it drives each pick of weft to the fell of the
cloth.
The Lancashire Loom was the first semi-automatic loom. Jacquard
looms and Dobby looms are looms that have sophisticated methods of
shedding. They may be separate looms, or mechanisms added to a plain
loom. A Northrop Loom was fully automatic and was mass produced between
1909 and the mid-1960s. Modern looms run faster and do not use a shuttle:
there are air jet looms, water jet looms and rapier looms.
Weaving | Weaving Mechanism | Classification of Weaving
Machines
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as
weaving. The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine
or loom. Weaving is an art that has been practiced for thousands of years. The
earliest application of weaving dates back to the Egyptian civilization. Over the
years, both the process as well as the machine has undergone phenomenal
changes. As of today, there is a wide range of looms being used, right from the
simplest hand loom to the most sophisticated loom.
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Classification of Weaving Machines:
Weaving machines are classified according to their filling insertion mechanism. The
classification is as follows:
1. Shuttle
2. Shuttle-less
 Projectile
 Rapier
 Air-Jet
 Water-Jet
Shuttle Weaving
In shuttle weaving, a shuttle that traverses back and forth across the loom width, inserts the
filling. Shuttles can be made of wood or plastic. Filling yarn is wound on the quill and the
quill is placed in the shuttle. As the shuttle move across the loom, the filling yarn is unwound
from the pirn and lay in the shed.
w
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19. 14 | P a g e
Projectile Weaving
Projectile weaving machines use a projectile equipped with a gripper to insert the filling
yarn across the machine. The gripper projectile draws the filling yarn into the shed. The
Projectile glides through the shed in a rake- shaped guide. Braked in the receiving unit, the
Projectile is then conveyed to its original position by a transport device installed under the
shed.
Fig: Projectile Weaving
Rapier Weaving
In Rapier weaving, a flexible or rigid solid element, called rapier, is used to insert the filling
yarn across the shed. The rapier head picks up the filling yarn and carries it through the
shed. After reaching the destination, the rapier head returns empty to pick up the next
filling yarn, which completes the cycle. A rapier performs a reciprocating motion.
Picture: Weft insertion by rapier
Rapier weaving machines can be of two types:
1. Single Rapier Machines: A single, rigid rapier is used in these machines. The rigid rapier
is a metal or composite bar usually with a circular cross section. The rapier enters the shed
from one side, picks up the tip of the filling yarn on the other side and passes it across the
loom width while retracting. Therefore, a single rapier carries the yarn in one way only and
half of the rapier movement is wasted. Also there is no yarn transfer since there is only one
rapier. The single rapier’s length is equal to the width of the loom.
2. Double Rapier Machines: Two rapiers are used in these machines: one rapier,
called the giver, takes the filling yarn from the yarn accumulator on one side of the
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20. 15 | P a g e
loom, brings it to the center of the machine and transfers it to the second rapier
which is called the taker. The taker retards and brings the filling yarn to the other
side. Similar to the single rapier machines, only half of the rapier movements are
used for filling insertion.
Air-Jet Weaving
The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft
insertion performance and are considered as the most productive in the
manufacturing of light to medium weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton and
certain man-made fibers (sheets, shirting fabrics, linings, taffetas and satins in staple
yarns of man-made fibers); it has anyway to be pointed out that technically positive
results are obtained at present also with heavy weight fabrics (denims) and that
some manufacturers produce also machine models for terry production.
Fig: Air-Jet Weaving
These machines are the ideal solution for those who want to produce bulk quantities
of customized fabric styles. The weaving widths range generally from 190 to 400 cm.
As regards the multicolor weft carrier, up to 8 different wefts can be fed. It has
however to be considered that the air jet weaving machines require a high energy
consumption to prepare the compressed air and that this consumption rises definitely
with increasing loom width and running speed. The reduction in the energy
consumption is in fact one of the main concerns of the manufacturers, and builds for
the user an important selection criterion.
Water-Jet Weaving
A water-jet weaving machine inserts the filling yarn by highly pressurized water. The relative
velocity between the filling yarn and the water jet provides the attractive force. If there is
no velocity difference, then there would be no tension on the yarn results in curling and
snarling of the yarn. Water-jet weaving machine can only be used for hydrophobic fibers.
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21. 16 | P a g e
Fig: Water-Jet Weaving
Measurement
 Ends and Picks: Picks refer to the weft, ends refer to the warp. The coarseness
of the cloth can be expressed as the number of picks and ends per quarter inch
square, or per inch square. Ends is always written first. For example: Heavy
domestics are made from coarse yarns, such as 10's to 14's warp and weft, and
about 48 ends and 52 picks.
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DYEING
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Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns,
and fabrics. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and
particular chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut chemical
bond with fiber molecules. The temperature and time controlling are two key factors
in dyeing. There are mainly two classes of dye, natural and man-made.
The primary source of dye, historically, has generally been nature, with the dyes
being extracted from animals or plants. Since the mid-19th century, however,
humans have produced artificial dyes to achieve a broader range of colors and to
render the dyes more stable to resist washing and general use. Different classes of
dyes are used for different types of fiber and at different stages of the textile
production process, from loose fibers through yarn and cloth to complete garments.
Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, while nylon and protein fibers such
as wool and silk are dyed with acid dyes, and polyester yarn is dyed with disperse
dyes. Cotton is dyed with a range of dye types, including vat dyes, and modern
synthetic reactive and direct dyes.
Dyeing Process:
Dyeing is governed by three factors, the dye, the fiber and the dye liquor. All the three lead an
independent assistance which influences the technique of dyeing. A dye must be water soluble
in order to dye textile materials. It may be soluble by nature of its chemical interference.
4
DYEING
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The dyeing process can thus be considered as taking place in three phases
 Attachment of the dye molecule to the surface of the fiber
 Penetration into the intermolecular spaces as well as diffusion through the fiber &
 Orientation (and fixation) along the long chain molecules.
The solution of the dye from which it is applied is called the „dye bath‟. A dye may
have direct „affinity‟ for a fiber (or vice versa) i.e., it is held by the fibre either
physically (absorption) or chemically (combination) as soon as the fiber is immersed
in the dye bath.
Accumulation of the dye in the fiber is a gradual process, the rate of such building up
being referred to as the 'rate of dyeing'.
1. This rate of dyeing is governed by the condition of the dye bath, namely concentration of
dye, temperature, and presence of electrolytes; it is proportional to all three factors.
2. The rate of dyeing is also influenced by the „Material to liquor‟ which is expressed by a
fraction, e.g. 1:20, which means one part (by weight) of the textile material dyed in twenty
times its weight of dye bath.
3. The rate of dyeing decreases with increasing ratio of goods to liquor.
Dyeing is carried out to produce a certain „Shade‟ by which is meant a certain color,
difference in shade being due to different ‟Hue‟. A blue shade may, for instance,
have a greenish or a reddish hue.The amount of dye needed for the production of a
certain depth of shade is expressed as a percentage of the weight of the material. A
1% dyeing represents a shade produced by the coloring of 100 lbs. of material with
one lb. of (commercial) dye under well defined dyeing conditions. It is necessary to
define these conditions because of their influence on the „exhaustion‟ of the dye
bath. Exhaustion determines that amount of dye which is taken up the fiber or in
directly, that amount which remains in the dye bath after „equilibrium‟ between dye
and fiber is reached, i.e., at that point where no further dyeing takes place.
Methods of Dyeing
Colour is applied to fabric by different methods of dyeing for different types of fiber and at
different stages of the textile production process. Dyeing can be done during any stage in
the textile manufacturing process. Textiles may be dyed as fibre, as yarn, as fabric, as
garments, depending upon the type of the fabric or garment being produced.
These methods include:
1. Direct dyeing;
2. Stock dyeing;
3. Top dyeing;
4. Yarn dyeing;
5. Piece dyeing;
6. Garment dyeing
7. Solution pigmenting or dope dyeing etc.
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Of these Direct dyeing and Yarn Dyeing methods are the most popular ones.
1. Direct Dyeing
When a dye is applied directly to the fabric without the aid of an affixing agent, it is
called direct dyeing. In this method the dyestuff is either fermented (for natural dye) or
chemically reduced (for synthetic vat and sulfur dyes) before being applied. The direct
dyes, which are largely used for dyeing cotton, are water soluble and can be applied
directly to the fiber from an aqueous solution. Most other classes of synthetic dye,
other than vat and sulfur dyes, are also applied in this way.
2. Stock Dyeing
Stock dyeing refers to the dyeing of the fibers, or stock, before it is spun in to yarn. It
is done by putting loose, unspun fibres in to large vats containing the dye bath, which
is then heated to the appropriate temperature required for the dye application and
dyeing process.
Stock dyeing is usually suitable for woolen materials when heather like color effects
are desired. Wool fibre dyed black, for example, might be blended and spun with un-
dyed (white) wool fibre to produce soft heather like shade of grey yarn.
Tweed fabrics with heather like color effects such as Harris Tweed are examples of
stock dyed material. Other examples include heather like colours in covert and woolen
cheviot.
3. Top Dyeing
Top dyeing is also the dyeing of the fibre before it is spun in to yarn and serves the
same purpose as stock dyeing – that is, to produce soft, heather like color effects. The
term top refers to the fibres of wool from which the short fibres have been removed.
Top is thus selecting long fibres that are used to spin worsted yarn. The top in the
form of sliver is dyed and then blended with other colors of dyed top to produce
desired heather shades.
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4. Yarn Dyeing
Yarn dyeing is the dyeing of the yarns before they have been woven or knitted into fabrics.
Yarn dyeing is used to create interesting checks, stripes and plaids with different-colored
yarns in the weaving process. In yarn dyeing, dyestuff penetrates the fibers in the core of
the yarn.
Yarn dyeing
There are many forms of yarn dyeing-
 Skein (Hank) Dyeing,
 Package Dyeing,
 Warp-beam Dyeing, and
 Space Dyeing.
A. Skein (Hank) Dyeing
Skein dyeing consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks (skeins) of yarn into dye vats
that are especially designed for this purpose. Soft, lofty yarns, such as hand knitted yarns
are usually skein dyed. Skein dyeing is the most costly yarn-dye method.
B. Package Dyeing
In package dyeing the yarn is wound on a small perforated spool or tube called a
package. Many spools fit into the dyeing machine in which the flow of the dye bath
alternates from the center to the outside, and then from the outside to the center of
the package. Package dyed yarns do not retain the softness and loftiness that skein-
dyed yarns do. They are however satisfactory and very widely used for most types of
yarns that are found in knitted and woven fabrics.
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C. Warp Beam Dyeing
Beam dyeing is the much larger version of package dyeing. An entire warp beam is wound on to a
perforated cylinder, which is then placed in the beam dyeing machine, where the flow of the dye
bath alternate as in the package dyeing. Beam dyeing is more economical than skein or package
dyeing, but it is only used in the manufacture of woven fabrics where an entire warp beam is dyed.
Knitted fabrics, which are mostly produced from the cones of the yarn, are not adaptable to beam
dyeing.
5. Piece Dyeing
The dyeing of cloth after it is being woven or knitted is known as piece dyeing. It is the most
common method of dyeing used. The various methods used for this type of dyeing include
jet dyeing. Jig dyeing, pad dyeing and beam dyeing.
6. Garment Dyeing
Garment dyeing is the dyeing of the completed garments. The types of apparel that can be dyed are
mostly non-tailored and simpler forms, such as sweaters, sweatshirts, T-shirts, hosiery, and
pantyhose. The effect on sizing, thread, zippers, trims and snaps must be considered. Tailored items,
such as suits or dresses, cannot be dyed as garments because the difference in shrinkage of the
various components and linings disort and misshape the article.
Garment dyeing is done by placing a suitable number of garments (usually about 24 sweaters or the
equivalent, depending on the weight) into large nylon net bag. The garments are loosely packed.
From 10 to 50 of the bags are placed in large tubs containing the dye bath and kept agitated by a
motor – driven paddle in the dye tub. The machine is appropriately called a paddle dryer.
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Flow Chart of Dyeing
Inspection of grey cloth
↓
Stitching
↓
Cropping
↓
Brushing
↓
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching
↓
Souring
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Dyeing
↓
Aftertreatment
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Baling
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PRINTING
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There are five main methods of printing a fabric, these being the block, roller, screen, heat
transfer and ink-jet methods. The heat transfer method differs from the others in that it
involves the transfer of color from the design printed on paper through the vapour phase into
the fibres of the fabric. With the other methods the dye or pigment is applied to the fabric
surface through a print paste medium. The ink jet printing process however is a
comparatively recent innovation and is referred to as a 'non-impact' method, because the
print paste is fired on to the textile from a jet which is not actually in contact with the fabric.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF PRINTING METHOD
Block Printing:
The blocks are usually made of wood and the design is hand carved, so that it stands out in
relief against the background surface. The print paste is applied to the design surface on the
block and the block then pressed against the fabric. The process is repeated with different
designs and colours until the pattern is complete.
Block printing is a slow, laborious process and is not suitable for high volume commercial
use. It is a method still practised in the oriental countries where markets exist for the types of
printed fabrics produced
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PRINTING
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Roller Printing:
Roller printing has traditionally been preferred for long production runs because of the very
high speeds possible. It is also a versatile technique since up to a dozen different colours
can be printed simultaneously. The basic roller printing equipment, shown in Fig. 7.1,
consists of a number of copper faced rollers in which the design is etched. There is a
separate printing roller for each colour being printed. Each of the rollers rotates over the
fabric under pressure against an iron pressure roller. A blanket and backing cloth rotate over
the pressure roller under the fabric and provide a flexible support for the fabric being printed.
A colour doctor blade removes paste or fibres adhering to the roller after contact with the
fabric. After the impression stage the fabric passes to the drying and steaming stages.
Roller Printing
Screen Printing:
This type of printing has increased enormously in its use in recent years because of its
versatility and the development of rotary screen printing machines which are capable of very
high rates of production. An additional significant advantage is that heavy depths of shade
can be produced by screen printing, a feature which has always been a limitation of roller
printing because of the restriction to the amount of print paste which can be held in the
shallow depth of the engraving on the print roller. Worldwide, some 61% of all printed textile
fabric is produced by the rotary screen method and 23% by flat screen printing.
There are two basic types of screen printing process, the flat screen and the rotary screen
methods.
Heat Transfer Printing:
Transfer printing techniques involve the transfer of a design from one medium to another.
The most common form used is heat transfer printing in which the design is printed initially
on to a special paper, using conventional printing machinery. The paper is then placed in
close contact with the fabric and heated, when the dyes sublime and transfer to the fabric
through the vapor phase.
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Ink-Jet Printing :
There has been considerable interest in the technology surrounding non-impact printing,
mainly for the graphic market, but the potential benefits of reductions in the time scale from
original design to final production has led to much activity in developing this technology for
textile and carpet printing processes. The types of machines developed fall into two classes,
drop-on-demand (DOD) and continuous stream (CS).
Carpet Printing :
The printing of carpets only really achieved importance after the introduction of tufted
carpets in the late 1950s. Until then the market was dominated by the woven Wilton carpets
and Axminster designs were well established, but by the 1980s tufted carpet production
accounted for some 80% (by area) of UK production. Much of this carpet production was
printed because the range of patterns possible to produce using tufting machines was limited
and there was a desire to produce a greater flexibility of design for these types of carpet.
Warp Printing:
The printing of a design on the sheet of warp yarns before weaving. The filling is either white
or a neutral color, and a grayed effect is produced in the areas of the design.
Resist Printing:
A printing method in which the design can be produced: (1) by applying a resist agent in the
desireddesign, then dyeing the fabric, in which case, the design remains whitealthough the
rest of the fabric is dyed; or (2) by including a resist agent and a dye in the pastewhich is
applied for the design, in which case, the color of the design is not affected bysubsequent
dyeing of the fabric background.
Photographic Printing:
A method of printing from photoengraved rollers. The resultant design looks like a
photograph. The designs may also be photographed on a silk screen which is used in screen
printing.
Pigment Printing:
Printing by the use of pigments instead of dyes. The pigments do notpenetrate the fiber but
are affixed to the surface of the fabric by means of synthetic resins whichare cured after
application to make them insoluble. The pigments are insoluble, and application isin the form
of water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions of pigment pastes and resins. The colors produced
are bright and generally fat except to crocking.
Blotch Printing:
A process wherein the background color of a design is printed rather than dyed.
Burn-Out Printing:
A method of printing to obtain a raised design on a sheer ground. The design is applied with
a special chemical onto a fabric woven of pairs of threads of different fibers. One of the
fibers is then destroyed locally by chemical action. Burn-out printing is often used on velvet.
The product of this operation is known as a burnt-out print.
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Direct Printing:
A process wherein the colors for the desired designs are applied directly to the white or dyed
cloth, as distinguished from discharge printing and resist printing.
Discharge Printing:
In “white” discharge printing, the fabric is piece dyed, then printed with a paste containing a
chemical that reduces the dye and hence removes the color where the white designs are
desired. In “colored” discharge printing, a color is added to the discharge paste in order to
replace the discharged color with another shade.
Duplex Printing:
A method of printing a pattern on the face and the back of a fabric with equal clarity.
Flow Chart of Printing
Inspection of grey cloth
↓
Stitching
↓
Cropping
↓
Brushing
↓
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching
↓
Souring
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Printing
↓
Aftertreatment
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Baling
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FINISHING
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Introduction:
Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing. In order to
impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the
material to different type of physical and chemical treatments. For example wash and wear
finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a similar
way, mercerizing, singeing,flame retardant, water repellent, water proof, antistatic finish,
peach finish etc are some of the important finishes applied to textile fabric.
Textile Finishing:
Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different process that the textile material
under go after pretreatment, dyeing or printing for final embellishment to enhance their
attractiveness and sale appeal as well as for comfort and usefulness.
Fig: Textile finished fabric
Objects of Finishing:
The aim of finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end use. Besides that,
finishing can be done for achieving the following purposes-
a) To improve fabric attractiveness.
 By modification of fabric appearance (Calendaring, Optical brightening)
 By altering fabric handle (Softening, Stiffening)
 Control of fabric dimension (Sanforizing, Compacting)
b) To improve service ability.
 Protection of fabric (Flame proofing, Water proofing)
 Improved performance (Water repellency, Raising)
 Easy care properties (Resin finish, Crease recovery)
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FINISHING
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Classification of Finishing:
Fig: Classification of Finishing
Generally there are two types of finishing. Those are
1. Physical/Mechanical.
2. Chemical.
Physical / Mechanical Finishing:
Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical treatment to a fabric surface
to cause a change in fabric appearance. This is also known as dry finish.
It's two types
1. Temporary :
A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary
finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and
usage.(Calendaring, embossing, Starching, Softening etc)
2. Permanent/Durable:
If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and remains unaffected through
all the conditions of wear and washing treatments, then the finish is said to be
permanent finish.( (Raising, Sanforizing, etc)
Describe Some Mechanical Finishing:
Calendaring:
Calendaring is defined as the modification of the surface of a fabric by the action of
heat and pressure. The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated
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rotating rollers (Smooth or Engraved) when both speed of rotation and pressure
applied are variable.
Fig: Calendaring fabric
Objects of Calendaring
 To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric.
 To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness.
 To reduce the air permeability by closing the threads.
 To increase the luster.
 To reduce the yarn slippage.
 Surface patterning by embossing.
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Compacting:
Durable finish imparted on man-made fibres and knitted fabrics by employing heat and
pressure to shrink them to produce a crêpey and bulky texture.
Fig: Compacting fabric
Sanforizing or Pre Shrinking:
Sanforizing is a process where by the fabric is run through a sanforizer; a machine that has
drums filled with hot steam. This process is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric.The
fabric is given an optimum dimensional stability by applying mechanic forces and water
vapour.
Fig: Sanforizing machine
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Sueding:
This process is carried out by means of a roller coated with abrasive material. Sueding is a
mechanical finishing process in which a fabric is abraded on one or both sides to raise or
create a fibrous surface. This fibrous surface improves the fabric appearance, gives the
fabric a softer, fuller hand, and can mask fabric construction and subdue coloration. Special
type of raised surface fabric is corduroy Sueding, sanding- creates softer hand of fabric.
Fig: Sueding fabric
Raising or Napping:
The raising of the fiber on the face of the goods by means of teasels or rollers covered with
card clothing (steel wires) that are about one inch in height. Action by either method raises
the protruding fibres and causes the finished fabric to provide greater warmth to the wearer,
makes the cloth more compact, causes the fabric to become softer in hand or smoother in
feel. Napped fabrics include blankets, flannel, unfinished worsted, and several types of
coatings and some dress goods.
Fig: Raising finishing
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Stentering Machine:
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter
machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for heat
setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted.
The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric width wise and to recover the uniform
width.
Fig: Stentering machine
Functions of Stenter Machines:
1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.
2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
Shearing:
Shearing is an important preparatory stage in the processing of cotton cloth. The objective of
"Shearing" is to remove fibers and loose threads from the surface of the fabric, thus
improving surface finish.
Fig: Shearing fabric
Chemical Finishing:
The finishes applied by means of chemicals of different origins, a fabric can receive
properties.Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding followed by curing and
drying. These are also called as wet finishes. Chemical is used for it.
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It's also two types
1. Temporary :
A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish
(Starching, Weighting, Softening etc.)
2. Permanent/Durable:
Permanent finishes usually involve a chemical change in fibre structure and will not change
or alter throughout the life of a fabric(Mercerizing, Resin, Water proof, Fire proof etc Soil
Release)
Describe Some Chemical Finishing:
Softening:
Softening treatment is one of the most important chemical after treatments in the textile
industry. Softening is carried out when the softness characteristics of a certain fabric must
be improved, always carefully considering the composition and properties of the substrate.
Fig: Softening treatment
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Elastomeric Finishes:
Elastomeric finishes are also referred to as stretch or elastic finishes and are particularly
important for knitwear. These finishes are currently achieved only with silicone-based
products. The main effect is durable elasticity, because not only must extensibility be
enhanced, but recovery from deformation is of crucial importance. After all stresses and
disturbing forces have been released, the fabric should return to its original shape.
Fig: Elastomeric finishes
Crease Resistant or Crease Proofing:
Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton, linen and rayon) that
wrinkle easily. Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling
and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning.
Fig: Crease Resistant Finishes
Anti-microbial finishes:
With the increasing use synthetic fibbers for carpets and other materials in public places,
anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance. Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti
microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics & Garments. Useful for eliminating bacterial
growth due to sweat.
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Soil Release Finishes:
Prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics. Such finishes may be resistant to oil-
boure or water-bourne soil and stains or both. These finishes attract water to the surface of
fibres during cleaning and help remove soil. Soil release finish increases the hydrophilicity of
the material and increases wetability.
Peach finish:
Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels, makes the
surface velvet like. This is a special finish mostly used in garments.
Fig: Peach finish
Anti Pilling:
Anti pilling finish reduces the forming of pills on fabrics and products made considerable
strength, flexibility and resistance to impact. Anti pilling finish is based on the use of
chemical treatments which aim to suppress the ability of fibers to slacken and also to reduce
the mechanical resistance of synthetic fiber.
Fig: Anti pilling finish
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Flame Retardant Treatment:
They are applied to combustible fabrics used in children's sleepwear, carpets and curtains
and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame. Polyester fabrics can be
made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 2,3-
dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence.
Fig: Flame Retardant Treatment
Oil and Water Proofing:
Waterproof Finishes allows no water to penetrate, but tend to be uncomfortable because
they trap moisture to the body. Recently, fabrics have been developed that are waterproof,
yet are also breathable that is more comfortable.
Fig: Waterproof Finishes
Water-Repellent Finishes:
Water-repellent finishes resist wetting. If the fabric becomes very wet, water will eventually
pass through. Applied to fabrics found in raincoats, all-weather coats, hats, capes, umbrellas
and shower curtains.
Fig: Water-repellent finishes
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GARMENTS
MANUFACTURING
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The fabric and accessories stores department is centralized in apparel industry and all
the fabric and accessories comes to this unit first from the supplier and audited here
and kept until it is distributed to other units. For an export oriented and
bulk production of garment industry. it is essential to maintain a well-organized & well
equipped inventory system. The main responsibility of this department is to store all
the raw material necessary to produce garments. This department is sub divided into
three sections. Store keeper follows a strong and appropriate working procedure.
Store for Accessories
Store for Fabrics
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GARMENTS MANUFACTURING
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Flow Chart of Garment Manufacturing
Design / Sketch
↓
Pattern Design
↓
Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting/Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
↓
Inspection
↓
Pressing/ Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Dispatch
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CONCLUSION
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As a textile engineer everybody should perform industrial
attachment and project report. Undoubtedly this industrial training
was very helpful to learn about textile technology, production process,
textile machineries, industrial management, match with industrial
environment .Project is also very important part of practical
experience. This work prepare a person for the specialty on the
specific topic. It was the first opportunity to work on the industry
Finishing is most efficiently carried out on fabrics. Now a day
it's apply all types of fabrics. Today it also applies on different
types of garments. So, it’s the very important process and the
final treatment process for textiles materials. We have learnt
about different textile finishing. It is very important assignment
for us. It will be helpful in our Industrial or practical life.
CONCLUSION
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Reference
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com
http://textilefashionstudy.com
http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com
http://www.slideshare.net
http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com
http://www.tikp.co.uk
http://www.textileschool.com
http://www.thesmarttime.com/index.html
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