This is the 4th edition of the monthly Kunzum Travel Mag dated November 2011. Full of stories illustrated with images from India and neighbouring countries. Covers wildlife, cities, train rides, tribes, cultures, religion, books, photography, hotel reviews and more.

1. Issue 05 | November 2011
T R A V E L M A G
postcards from
BIKANER

2. contents
Where are you 07 Bikaner, rajasthan: An enchanting
headed these camel fair and lots more
winter holidays? 18 Photo Feature: Hitting a Wall
Are you busy planning your travels during the
coming winters?
30 Delhi
This is a time when we are all spoilt for choice. Purana Qila (Old Fort): Where emperors
A gorgeous world awaits. Even if it comes take fatal tumbles
with a higher than usual price tag - hotel khair-ul-Manazil Mosque: A gift from the
prices always go up during the winter break, nanny
especially between Christmas and the New
Year. But don’t let this minor speed bump get
in the way of your holiday.
37 hOtel revieWs
But are you scratching your head for ideas? Here are some I would stick my neck out > iora, the retreat - Kaziranga, Assam
and strongly recommend: > Fish tail lodge - Pokhara, Nepal
• Delhi: Who goes to Delhi for a holiday? If you have not considered it, do so now.
You will experience the best weather on the planet during the city’s winters. And
there is so much here: history, events, food, shopping… enough to keep you busy for 42 stuFF
weeks. > the Wanderer’s Palate: A chick for every
season
• Rajasthan: Always in vogue at this time of the year. Plan a circuit covering > sketch Feature - Switzerland
Shekhawati, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Osian, Bera, Pushkar, Udaipur and Jaipur. > Book review: Three Men in a Boat
You cannot go wrong here. > The Handwritten Travelogue
• The Freezing Himalayas: Don’t let the cold and possible snow put you off. Go to
Thaneder, Rishikesh, Mcleodganj and any number of hill stations where hotels are
open for business. Think Srinagar - you will fall in love with someone when there.
• Nepal: This country is so beautiful and hospitable, it’s a pity why Indians have
written it off. Go, go, go…
• The North-East: You have nothing to fear. Go to the wilds of Assam, meet the
tribals of Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland, go caving in Meghalaya, attend the many
festivals in the region, or just drive around.
team kunzum
CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): ajay jain
• Gujarat: Drive across the vast plains of the Rann, visit sites of ancient civilizations, - He also hogs the driver’s seat
go birding at the many sites, or hop on to jungle safaris in Gir and Velavadar.
CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): anubhuti rana
• Down South: I have had limited exposure here, but visit lovely Coorg. Or keep - Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways
driving along the Arabian Sea coastline and weave in and out of the Western Ghats.
A new discovery will await everyday. CSO (Chief Social Officer): shruti sharma
- Found on Facebook, Twitter, Kunzum Travel Café or
trekking in the wild
Want more information on the above? Browse through www.kunzum.com - we have
lots of stuff posted there. Or ping us on mail@kunzum.com - we will be happy to
guide you. CDO (Chief Design Officer): Faizan Patel
- Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when
others travel
We travel. What are you planning to do?
samridhi Minocha - A big welcome to our new
team member
*Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain
Subscribe to the
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3. kunzum travel mag
(Previous Issues)
Missed the earlier issues of the Kunzum Travel Mag? No problem.
Download the same at http://kunzum.com/mag.
This is what we have covered:
issue 1, july 2011
rajasthan / ranthaMBhOre: Gujarat
> Looking the tiger in the eye > Rani ki Vav in Patan: A Stepwell or a
naGalanD: Misty Mountain Top Work of Art?
The re-discovery of nePal > The Sun Temple at Modhera
laDakh: At the top of the world jOrDan
hiMaChal PraDesh / lahaul sPiti > Dead Sea: Try sinking in it, you
> Kaza: Paradise is Here cannot!
> Tabo, the Village of Cavemen and hOtel revieWs
Lamas > Swaswara in Gokarna, Karnataka -
Delhi Perfect to uplift your body, mind and
> Mehrauli Archaeological Park: Bet soul
no one tells you this one > Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad
> Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah: Kerala - What a perfect setting for a
Qawwalis, resort
Fairs, Prayers, Shopping – It all > Banjara Camps and Retreat, Sangla,
happens here Himachal Pradesh - Cannot Admire it
BOOks: > 5 books to read about the Enough
1996 Everest disaster > Gir Birding Lodge, Sasan Gir, Gujarat -
They know the jungle!
issue 2, auGust 2011
assaM: rajasthan
> Manas National Park: The Games > Kuldhara, Jaisalmer: When the
Elephants Play Paliwals Vanished into the Night
arunaChal PraDesh: > Bera: Welcome to Leopard Country
> Hello Ladies…of Arunachal Pradesh - It is Wild and Free
hiMaChal PraDesh hOtel revieWs
Maharashtra: > Banjara Retreat, Shoja
> The Matheran Light Railway: Go for > The Almond Villa, Srinagar
a Joyride > Rann Riders, Dasada, Rann of Kutch
uttarakhanD > Devra Homestay, Udaipur
> Kunzum Route K14 stuFF
Delhi > Sketch Feature - Singapore
> If it’s Ramadan, you must be in > Photography: Don’t let the Camera
Matia Mahal go Dead on you
> Walk on the Northern Ridge: History > Book Review: Journey to the Center of
in One Sweep the Earth

4. issue 3, sePteMBer 2011
A Journey to kashMir, on Kunzum hOtel revieWs
Route K11 > Castle Bera, Bera, Rajasthan Rain
Delhi Country Resorts
> Join the annual Dussehra > Wayanad, Kerala
Procession >The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar,
Safdarjung’s Tomb Gujarat
taMil naDu: The Niligiri Mountain > Banjara Orchard Retreat, Thanedar,
Railway - A Toy Train you must Himachal Pradesh
Ride stuFF
rajasthan > Travel Bites: Don’t be Jet-Lagged this
Jodhpur: Food, Bazaars, History - It all Holiday Season
Happens Here > Sketch Feature - Malaysia
> Book Review: River Dog
issue 1, OCtOBer 2011
Postcards from Gujarat jOrDan
hiMaChal PraDesh Wadi Rum: A vast, echoing and God-
Thanedar: The birthplace of apples in like desert
India hOtel revieWs
rajasthan > Wild Grass Lodge, Kaziranga, Assam
Mount Abu: A quiet oasis in a desert > Soulitude, Ramgarh, Uttarakhand
state stuFF
Delhi > The Wanderer’s Palate: Elai Adai
Chor Minar: Making an example of > Travel Bites
thieves > Sketch Feature - Kanha National
Khooni Darwaza: The gate with a Park
bloody history > Book Review: Being a Scot
Kinari Bazaar: Where colours change > The Handwritten Travelogue
with seasons

6. 06

7. Bikaner
rajasthan
An enchanting camel fair and lots more
Think of camel fairs, and chances are you will head to Pushkar in Rajasthan. But hold on
to your horses (or camels) for a moment - consider Bikaner, with its smaller yet far more
enchanting version. And that is only one of the reasons why you need to be in this desert city.
the Fair First
The festival is all about colours and see the latter is at the Sheetla Saptmi smarter - the trainers or the animals?
music. The opening act itself is a parade fair around Holi in March in West
by the royal guards mounted on richly Rajasthan when 35-40 such groups There is more. Camels walk the ramp to
decorated camels. These forces may come together to perform. Not to be decide whose coats are embroidered
only be symbolic now, but the riders left out, groups of eunuchs dressed in best by the artisans of Rajasthan.
still display the same pride as their bright red, magenta and yellow join Yes, the fur is cut to make beautiful
predecessors may have when the elite the party, performing dances including patterns. A treat follows - in the form of
camel corps, the Ganga Risala, existed some mildly suggestive ones. camel milk fresh from the udders. Take
and fought in the two World Wars. a sip - its salty taste has to be acquired
Camels are the real stars though, and I am told. But locals and the scientists
Bravado out of the way, it is time to they sure work hard for this occasion. at Bikaner’s National Research Centre
break into a song and a dance. Not that Their acrobatics and dances defy their for Camels believe this milk is highly
Rajasthanis need much of an excuse to unwieldy look. Strutting, rolling and nutritious and therapeutic and can
do so. If Sartar Khan Lattah and party raising themselves high on just their even cure diabetes.
set the mood going with their folk hind legs, they even pick up money
music from Barmer, the likes of Sushil and hold tea kettles in their mouths, Thereafter the action shifts to the
Mali brings his troupe to perform the offering it to guests of honour. Some village of Ladera for two magical days
Lal Angi Dandiya Gir Nritya dressed in even grip their owners’ necks by their and nights. The setting is just perfect
all red. The only other time you would teeth - but only gently. Wonder who is there: a huge sand bowl, clear skies, a
7

8. bright moon above and the entire area hotter,” announces the compere when of them even take in pieces of burning
resonating with only the sounds of the cultural programs start on stage coal in their mouths letting out sparks.
festivities. Far removed from the madding after sunset. One is treated to the All seemingly under a spell of the
world we live in. Daytime sees sporty many different forms of Rajasthani soft drug Bhaang made from the
competitions including Gramin Kushti (rural folk culture including the Ghoomur leaf of cannabis indica. Theories
wrestling), Kabaddi, dune racing, camel dance. Don’t rush blindly to woo the abound on how these dancers pull
racing, Kho Kho and women’s musical beautiful dancing women - some of off this ‘trick,’ but does one care?
chairs. And the way locals cheer and root them are men! The thrills are complete.
for their favourites, you would think the
world championships are at stake. Even The ‘hottest’ event is the fire dance. And what better way to round up the
contestants for the Mr. Bikaner and Ms. Performed by members of the Siddh fun than with authentic Rajasthani
Bikana can be seen vying for the top spot. community, supposedly blessed with food? Scrumptious thalis (big metial
special powers by Lord Jasnath. They plates) of daal, baati, choorma and
“The night is getting cooler and cooler walk on a bed of burning wood and other traditional vegetables leaves you
and the stage is getting hotter and coal, and dance around the fire. A few with no choice but to overeat.
Travel Tips for The BiKaNer fair
There is no entry fee. Arrangements are made to transport visitors from Bikaner to Ladera (45 kms / 28 miles)
by bus. You can stay in hotels in the city, or book tents pitched by organizers in Ladera. Book in advance - the
festival falls during peak tourist season. Carry some warm clothes for the evening. For more information
contact Hotel Dholamaru (A Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation property) in Bikaner.
Eunuchs dancing at the festival. Most of them work as office boys in Government department and A highly decorated camel participating in the
perform when called upon. The one in yellow, Sunil, is taking computer literacy classes. acrobatics competition
8

9. A camel’s fur with an embroidered look for the fur cutting (called Baal Katra in local dialect) competition
Dancers at Ladera Participants in the Mr. Bikaner competition
9

10. A foreign tourist trying a sip of freshly milked camel milk
Fire dancers from the Sidhh community walking over a bed of Towards the end of the fire dance, the dancers started to ‘splash’ the burning
wood and coal on fire wood and coal with their feet all around causing the sparks to fly as seen here

11. let’s talk shOP
Someone needs to send Wee Willie Point will even match silken laces with dresses on hire and garlands made
Winkie to put the people of Bikaner lingerie. of real currency notes. With Rabdi
to bed on time. They simply don’t Band available to provide the music.
want to call it a day – keeping their You could take ailing pressure
bazaars bustling with activity till late cookers, cooking gas stoves, blenders For serious shopping, you have big outlets
into the night. Join the fun, stroll and lighters at the Pressure Cooker like Maharaja Arts selling traditional
around and window shop. Don’t be Hospital on a sidewalk. The proprietor Rajasthani bed linen, curtains, clothes,
surprised at barbers shaving men at will also exchange spoiled currency cushions, toys, decorations, replicas of
ten in the night, or women trying out notes for a commission, or top up your antiques, bean bags and more. Bargain
Kolhapuri juttis or traditional shoes. mobile. Another peculiarity are shops hard - don’t hesitate to offer 50 percent
Get bedazzled with rows of shops branded with brotherly love. You or lesser than the quoted price - you
selling shining stainless steel utensils. have ‘Shop of Three Brothers,’ ‘Pandit could land yourself a steal. A salesman
Pick up stone mortars and pestles Harprasad and Sons, Brothers’ Shop,’ offered me ‘Buy One, Get One Free’ bed
in various shapes and sizes from ‘Two Brothers Garment’ and so on. cover. It was a reversible one, the other side
roadside vendors, or buy lingerie If you are planning to get married, being free. Very funny. I offered him Rs. 500,
from a shop called Shanti (meaning there is all that a groom needs for saying it is actually Rs. 1,000 if he counted
peace, wonder where?). Matching his wedding day including make-up, both sides of the bill. Funny back!
sCenes FrOM the Bazaars OF Bikaner

12. steP Out On an eMPty stOMaCh
Bikaner can get anorexics to start Bikaneri Bhujiya sure deserves it. A one of the vendors. Made from cow
questioning their own resolve. The spicy crisp snack made of gramflour milk around Bikaner, and buffalo milk
city is full of food, inviting you with, fried in different shapes, it is sold in around Dholpur, villagers make these
“Come, gorge!” Take your pick from shops bearing names like Bhikaram at home and supply all over North
kachoris, samosas, jalebis and ghevar Chandmal, Shri Ganesh, Jai Ganesh etc. India.
straight from the frying wok. Or choose Surprisingly, it is not that easy to find
from all kinds of Indian sweets and traditional Rajasthani dishes like daal, Many a shop sell all kinds of local
savouries from menus that read more baati, choorma etc. - one has to go to medicines made from herbs, roots
like encyclopedic compilations rather Ladera during the Camel Fair to get the and other ayurvedic formulae.
than the offering of a single eatery. authentic stuff. Promising to cure you of virtually
everything including obesity, gas,
Recharge with munchies like dried Bikaner is also an important source asthma, heart ailments, piles,
fruits, groundnuts, chickpeas and of Mawa, a key milk ingredient for blood pressure and any orthopedic
chanas being sold wholesale. They may many Indian sweets. The Mawa Bazaar problems. Some even claim to have
not have been awarded a Geographical located just off the Banthiyon Ka received awards from the President
Indicator (a kind of a patent linking Chowk is the biggest wholesale market of India for their work. If you get sick
a product category to its origin, like for Mawa in Rajasthan after Dholpur of eating all the sumptuous Bikaneri
Champagne and Darjeeling Tea), but according to Laxmi Narayan Raj Purohit, food, you know where to head to.
eatinG Out in Bikaner
26

13. the junaGarh FOrt
Why would you bury a man (by
himself) alive in the foundations of a
fort or within one of the turrets (on
horseback) if he had done nothing
wrong to deserve the fate?
It was considered auspicious and
guaranteed invincibility to the fort, or
so go the legends. If true, it seemed to
have worked for the Junagarh Fort in
Bikaner, with its impressive record of
never having been conquered. If you
go digging in the foundations west of
the fort, where a temple of Bhomiaji
stands, you may find the fossils of a
man who volunteered to be buried
alive. It was a matter of Rajput pride
to give up your life for this ‘cause,’ with
the family being rewarded with land
and money.
The fort, originally called Chintamani
Durg, was built by Raja Rai Singh;
work started on January 30, 1586 and
finished in 1594. For three centuries
after this, the rulers engaged in about nine
battles with their cousins from Jodhpur
state. A dispute between the two sides
had been simmering since around 1491
when some family heirlooms, the Rathore
symbols of power, were given away by
Rao Jodha (founder of Jodhpur) to his son
Rao Bika who founded Bikaner in 1465.
Descendants of the latter always emerged
victorious, and these heirlooms remain safe
in Bikaner till date under the care of the Rao
Bikaji Maharaja of Bikaner’s Heirloom,
Insignias and Farmans Private Trust. One
of these, a sandalwood throne dating
back to 1212 is on display at the fort.
Entry to the Junagarh Fort
Bikaner did not have a hill to build
a fort on for greater security, but its either to lead lives of outcasts or in Singh on October 30, 1825, before the
design still gives it an imposing stature. confinement, or were expected to British outlawed this practice. Records
Every generation following the founder immolate themselves on the funeral show Rao Bika had eight Satis, with
made additions and alterations to the pyre of their husbands. This act of the largest entourage of 35 immolating
fort, but the surrounding moat always committing Sati was preferred by themselves with Maharaja Zorawar
remained a dry one. A walk through the women whose indoctrination since Singh. Royalty at the time had many
fort makes for fascinating sights: childhood taught them life without wives, mistresses and concubines and
their husband was not worth living. As all often committed Sati, sometimes
ImprInts of hands of you enter the fort, you will see imprints with maids and other female staff
of the hands of some of the women who of the queens. In an unusual case,
SatiS: The period around 1200 -
committed Sati. The ones in marble are Sangram Singh Mandlawat, a faithful
1600 A.D. was a dark one for Rajput
those of the last Sati - Kanwarani Deep manservant of Maharaja Raj Singh,
women in Rajasthan. Widows had
Kanwar, wife of Maharaja Kumar Moti committed Sato.
13

14. Imprints of hands of Satis
a Hidden treaSure: Cross the and tHe ligHtS come on:
Suraj Prole (Sun Gate) and pause on In a visionary move much ahead of its
the ramp or Khurra - it is believed Raja time, Maharaja Dungar Singh engaged
Rai Singh buried a treasure of gold and an English engineer Mr. Robinson
jewels under it for an emergency. All to install electric power in the fort.
royal establishments are rife with such And when the switch was flicked
legends - should keep Indiana Jones on, onlookers were left dazzled with
busy for a long time. powerful lamps and arc lights coming
alive simultaneously, illuminating the
whole fort. In 1914, Maharaja Ganga
Singh installed the first elevator,
imported from England, in Rajasthan.
tHe armoury: You cannot but
help get impressed with the collection
of arms, one of the finest in any fort in
India. Swords, knives, daggers, shields,
maces, armours, bows and arrows and
guns used over the centuries are all on
a well curated display. You will also see
a World War I DH9-DE Haviland fighter
plane. Actually, the British presented
Maharaja Ganga Singh parts of two
such shot down planes as souvenirs in
return for combat services rendered
during the war. Around 1985, Maharaja
Karni Singh engaged craftsmen to take
parts from both and put together one
replica of the original. There is a stand
with swords placed horizontally in it;
14

15. the arMOury
the sharp edges face upwards and the royal ladies for transportation. market - the earliest sign of
members of the Siddh community The fort is dotted with temples, foreign influence in the interiors.
would perform stunts by walking on some open to public and others One of the rooms has a 65 kilo
these. They do similar stuff on beds of only for the royal family. The Badal silver door leading to it. A silver
nails and burning coal. Don’t try it! Mahal or Cloud Palace has a blue throne stands in the Karan Mahal
ceiling with clouds and lightening and was used for ceremonial
You need to spend at least a full painted on it - to give a feeling of purposes. A swing known as
day in this fort to really appreciate coolness in the harsh, dry desert Krishna Jhoola is used during
all that is on display. You have a region. The Chini Burj has tiles Janmashtami to celebrate the
collection of palanquins used by made in China for the European birth of the Hindu God Krishna.
In earlier times, entertainers would stand and walk on these sharp The World War I DH9-DE Haviland fighter plane
edged swords. Ouch!

16. The beds for kings are interesting. so the feet are on the floor; should wouldn’t they have incapacitated
Paranoid of being attacked even while someone tie the king in his sleep, he him to fight at all? If yes, at least
asleep, these were made low to ensure could still stand up with the bed on his the king could have ordered more
no conspirators could hide underneath. back and put up a fight. Question: If comfortable beds to sleep while he
The beds were shorter than the body someone got so far as to tie the king, still could.
A Palanquin Tiles from China
UsefUl Travel iNfo for JUNagarh forT
• Timings 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
• Guides are included in entry ticket. Audio guides are available at an extra charge. A sign reads, ‘Guides are
paid servants of the trust.’
• Entry Fee: Indians - Rs. 20; Students and Children - Rs. 10; Foreigners - Rs. 150
• Camera fee: Still - Rs. 30; Video - Rs. 100
• There are separate cloak rooms and ticket counters for Indians and foreigners.
• ‘Luggage and pet dogs not allowed in the palaces’ reads a sign.
• The Prachin Café inside the fort serves Indian and Chinese cuisines besides sandwiches and beverages.
BiKaNer: Travel Tips
• Weather: Mild winters and very hot summers.
• Best time to go: October to February.
• How to reach: By road or train. Nearest airports are at Jaipur and Jodhpur.
• Recommended Stay: At least 3 days.
• While you are there: Visit the Karni Mata Temple at Deshnoke (30 kms / 19 miles) away. Or spend a night at
the Gajner Palace heritage hotel (32 kms / 20 miles away) with its artificial lake and beautiful surroundings;
the royalty hosted wildlife shooting parties here at one time. Also check out the Lallgarh Palace in town
made of pink-red sandstone. Built by Maharaja Ganga Singh in 1902 as modern quarters for the royal family,
it houses a museum and a hotel, the Laxmi Niwas Palace. Scout the inner lanes of Bikaner to see some old
Havelis or mansions built by businessmen; the Bhanwar Niwas is one that has been converted into a must-
stay hotel.
• Combine trip with: Jaisalmer and Shekhawati.

18. PHOTO ESSAY
Hitting a Wall
The blue colour of this village house in Nepal caught my attention - as did the logs used for curing honey in some way I could
not quite comprehend. The green window with protective iron rods added to the imagery.
A
s a travel photographer, my shops and buildings - and you will find formed by objects - like a broom
audience have many different yourself looking at works of art. Just the adding a different character when
expectations from me. Some blue of a village house, or the rustiness resting against an otherwise
want stunning landscapes, others of an old lock can make you whistle a blank wall. Some variations may
want portraits or cultural expositions. ‘wow.’ You will pass these often and yet emerge naturally, say, in the
There will be those who want me to not see them in a creative light. form of roots or anthills growing
post historical essays, with another set against walls. Any such variable
wanting an adrenalin high with images And I am not even talking about stuff has the ability to transform an
from the wild. I capture all these images that has been commissioned to artists. otherwise ordinary background
- but the real joy comes when I manage These are everyday structures, where into something eye-catching.
to spring a surprise. the owners just picked on a colour or a
pattern to their liking. “The neighbour Once I noticed some of these
You can do this by presenting a rare chose green, so I will go for yellow” wonderful works of art, I cannot
sight. Or with something that is kind of a thinking. Or someone may help looking out for more of these
always around travellers but they are be using locks going back a hundred whenever on the go. And one
blinded to it. years, and happy because no one does not need to travel far - your
could pick them yet. neighbour’s window may qualify
One such theme are walls. And doors, without the owner realizing so.
windows and locks. All you need to do The aesthetic could be enhanced Go, face a wall or a door. It is a
is stop and observe ordinary houses, when ever changing patterns are kaleidoscopic world out there.
18

19. I noticed this wall in a house in Tansen in Nepal. While the colours were appealing, the shiny utensils drying in the sun with a
broom lying alongside added new dimensions to it.
You will see this sight only on Sundays in Darya Ganj in old Delhi - the regular market
is closed on this day enabling a used book market to come up on its pavements for
the day. Also on sale are old movie posters.
These roots growing into a crumbling wall with the statue of the Hindu God Ganesha
in Shekhawati in Rajasthan are usually ignored as a junk spot by all - but it gave me
one of the most admired photos in my collection
19

20. Three locks to secure a blue door - what was stored within?
The way you lock your premises says these as they are open all day - but not me, asking why I was taking photos
a lot about the society you live in. I at that hour. The locks themselves, the of locks when there were castles
captured this set of locks and more bolts, and the colours of the walls and and frescos that tourists came for.
in Shekhawati in Rajasthan. I was out doors were all arresting. And then I A theory started doing the rounds
early morning looking for subjects to started clicking them - arousing much amongst them: With these photos I
click when some shop doors caught curiosity amongst the few locals up could possibly make keys to break in
my attention. One usually does not see and about. Some started following later. If only it was so simple.
The pink door and the pattern formed by the bolt, chain and locks
caught my attention
An old fashioned lock still good enough to Another old fashioned way of locking the door,
keep the premises safe with the green wall and the rusty brown wooden
The yellow with the Coke Red and Pepsi Blue made for quite a door making a nice contrast
noticeable colour scheme

21. These frescos in a haveli in Shekhawati in Rajasthan, beautiful by themselves, were further enhanced by the blue windows
These wooden birds in a haveli (old bungalow) with wooden patterns sure enhanced the entrance in Shekhawati in Rajasthan

22. A naturally orange backdrop for the ear cleaner in old Delhi
An old lock in a traditional wooden house in Batseri village in Sangla Valley in Himachal Pradesh

23. This is the ceiling of the entrance chamber to a Buddhist temple in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Patan in Kathmandu in
Nepal. Most photographers would give it a cursory look and move on to shoot the temple - but I saw it differently.
One of my bestselling images - a kite shop at dusk in Rajasthan. This was taken a few days before the kite flying festival of
Makar Sakranti in January

28. Feel the wind. Explore. Ride away.
On a 500 cc motorbike.
There may be no better way to see India.
Decide your own route, or take one of our
recommendations.
Bike rentals | Tour Advisories | Guided Tours.
www.royalindiabikes.com | +91.99100 12597 | +91.9871697719 | rajiv@royalindiabikes.com
north india – rajiv@royalindiabikes.com ; saiba@royalindiabikes.com | South india – malvikaa@gmail.com

29. Learn to shoot Like pros.
Discover your creative seLf.
anD proDuce images that onLy you can.
the kunzum meDia Lab wiLL show you how.
If you want to be a good photographer, you have to appreciate the art behind
the imagery. Pick up some technical skills. And then allow your senses to create
something only you can. Your photography has to be your own. Your identity has
to be stamped on it.
But we all need mentors to make it happen. The Kunzum Media Lab can play that
role. With our unique approach to teaching you the art of photography.
And we don’t stop at just teaching you to be a good photographer. We show you
the way how to manage your portfolio, exhibit your work, use social media for
marketing and branding, get your content published as books and more.
Check the schedule of upcoming workshops and programs
at
http://kunzum.com/medialab or call +91.9650 702 777

30. Delhi
Puranatake Fatal Tumbles FOrt)
Where Emperors
Qila (OlD
Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque
T
hree different rulers (one human settlement are archaeological on New Delhi (central Delhi currently),
mythological, two real) zeroed excavations going back to the 4th Shahjahanabad became Old Delhi. The
in on the site of the present day century A.D. Gupta period. Parliamentary constituency of central
Purana Qila (Old Fort) as their seat of Delhi is called New Delhi – confusing
power – and somehow none survived The first recorded foundations were for many as New Delhi actually covers
long enough to really enjoy the fruits of laid by the second Mughal emperor a much bigger area as far as postal
their labour. Humayun in 1533 who called his new addresses go (when a postal address
city Dinpanah (Refuge of the Faithful). reads only Delhi, and not New Delhi, it
The legendary Pandavas of the But after Sher Shah Suri ousted refers to Old Delhi; both Old and New
Mahabharata fame are believed to Humayun in 1538, he demolished the Delhis are contiguous areas). We could
have established the kingdom of earlier structure and built a new fort go on adding to the confusion but let’s
Indraprastha here tens of thousands called Sher Garh and the city around it, go back in time first.
of moons ago. It is sometimes referred Sher Shani. This was the sixth city of
to as the first city of Delhi. But there is Delhi. Humayun came back to power in The fort itself has three main gates:
no evidence to support this claim – and 1555 after defeating Sher Shah’s weak the western Bara (Big) Darwaza
so far, thankfully, the far right Hindus successors, and started building upon (Gate) on the Mathura Road is where
have not dug up the Purana Qila yet to what was already there. The name one enters from. The one to the south
provide some. Many still refer to the Old Fort came about when Shahjahan, is called Humayun Darwaza, while
citadel as Pandavon ka Qila (the fort of who also built the Taj Mahal, made the the northern one is called Talaqi
the Pandavas). If this were so, it would Red Fort (the new fort, and thus the (Foridden) Darwaza and lies locked
be the longest surviving man-made other one became old) in 1648 and since time immemorial. According
structure in history. In earlier times, established the city of Shahjahanabad to legend, some king ordered it shut
houses were made of mud and palaces (referred to as Old Delhi now). Funnily, when he went to battle with orders
of wood – even if the Pandavas ruled during British times, Old Delhi was to open it only when he returned
from here, no structures would have referred to as Mehrauli (in south Delhi victorious. Apparently he never
survived till now. The earliest proof of now); but when Lutyens started work returned; if the story is true, the king
30

31. may have been Sher Shah Suri who sandstone and white, black and grey chamber but Humayun converted it
was killed in 1545. marble) along with the carvings and into his library. Coming down the steps
inlay work make it one of the beautiful one fateful afternoon in 1556, he heard
The compound inside is quite mosques in the city. A tank in front was the call to prayer. While attempting to
extensive, with well maintained lawns used for ablution before prayers. A kneel down immediately, he tripped on
(the Mughal Emperors would have deep step-well was also constructed to his robe and tumbled to his death. He
approved of this for they loved their ensure water supply. did not enjoy the return to power for
gardens). Few structures remain even a year.
though. The most striking is the Qila- Nearby is an octagonal structure
i-Kuhna Mosque built by Sher Shah in called the Sher Mandal – its infamy a word of advice: Do not wear a robe
1541 with its five-arched entrance. The overshadows its architecture. Sher whilst snooping around the steps of the
use of different coloured stones (red Shah might have built it as a pleasure Sher Mandal.
Entry to the Old Fort The Sher Mandal
metro: pragati Maidan, but a 15-20 minute walk from there
31

32. Camp Pinewood Trails is set in the heart of
• accommodation and facilitieS:
Himachal Pradesh and 30 minutes drive from a
We have a Cluster of Fifteen 12’ x 12’ size, sturdy
small town Kandaghat on the Chail Road, Camp
tents with ground bedding and sleeping bags,
Pinewood Trails is surrounded by lush cedar
Bathing/washing and toilet facilities (Western),
forests. It offers unlimited options for hikes
and an open dining space.
along meandering hilly trek routes. A short trek
above the camp is yet another rejuvenating activitieS:
experience with magnificent views to greet • adventure activities: Rappelling, Commando
you. Softer options are a quiet relaxing stroll Net, Burma Bridge, Flying Fox, Tyrolean
around the campsite and cosy naps under the Traverse, Bridge slithering, Double rope bridge.
sun. Whatever you choose its bound to be • games: Volleyball, Badminton, Carom, and
memorable and invigorating. Chess.
Location: Situated in the valley at Sadhupul, 12 • trekking
kms away from Kandaghat on the Kandaghat- • Bird watching
Chail road, 17 kms before Chail in Himachal • Bonfire with loads of games, singing and
Pradesh. Its well laid-out, safe, healthy and interactive fun.
easily accessible.
Address: 110, Aamrpali Apartments, Plot no-56, I.P. Extension, Patpar Ganj, Delhi -110092
Mobile: 9811213026/9873411989
Email: jeffrey@pinewoodtrails.com, alex@pinewoodtrails.com
Website: http://pinewoodtrails.com/contactus.html
26

33. Delhi
khair-ul-Manazil MOsQue
A Gift from the Nanny
I
t is one of the best preserved and death of his father, Humayun in 1556. the mosque is the grand Lal Darwaza
finest mosques in Delhi, but lies Interestingly, Khair-ul-Manazil is also (Red Gate) or Sher Shah Gate, which
largely ignored except by the devout a chronogram; when the letters of its is believed to have been the southern
who come here to offer prayers. Or by name are written in the Persian script, gateway to Sher Shah’s city.
young boys who like to play cops and you get the numerical value of its year
robbers amongst its ruins (at least the of construction i.e. 969 Hijri or A.D. An unconfirmed story: On his way back
author did, while he was staying in Kaka 1561-62 (according to a sign put up by from a hunting trip, emperor Akbar
Nagar in the late 1970s / early 1980s the ASI). It is located across the road visited the Nizamuddin mosque and
across the road). from the Purana Qila (Old Fort). then came to the Khair-ul-Manazil.
A slave of his late father, emperor
Khair-ul-Manazil, meaning ‘the most You will see a hauz (tank) and a well as Humayun, attempted to assassinate
auspicious of houses’ or the ‘best you enter the main courtyard which are Akbar but his arrow missed and killed a
of houses,’ was commissioned as a used for ablution before the prayers. bodyguard. The emperor’s short height
mosque and madrasa (an educational Rooms built along three walls were may have worked to his advantage.
institution) by Mahan Angah, wet used for the madrasa. The mehrab
nurse to Emperor Akbar. She was (prayer wall) on the fourth faces Mecca When you go visiting, and see any boys
politically very influential when Akbar to the west; it is decorated stucco and playing cops and robbers, try to enlist
was still a boy king after the untimely glazed tiles in different colours. Next to the former to provide a security cordon.
tranSlation of inScription over tHe central arcH of tHe prayer cHamBer
In the time of Jalal-ud-din Muhammad who is the greatest (Akbar) of just kings
When Maham Begh, the protection of chastity, erected this building for the virtuous
Shihabuddin Ahmad Khan, the generous, assisted in the erection of this good house.
How blessed is this building that its chronogram is ‘best of houses.’
- Composed by Niyaz Baksh, under the supervision of Darwesh Husain
33

34. A Division of AsiAn ADventures
T: +91-11-44128785, M: +91-9811704651, E: wildindiatours@vsnl.com, W: www.asianadventures.net

35. We travel.
and come back With stories and images.
and We put all these great holiday ideas as the
travel list
1-25
1-25
1-25
1-25
1-25
trav
t r a ve ell lliistt
t r aavel l l i istt
el l ss
t r avv e l is t
t r AjAyAjAyIN jAIN
AjAy jA y IN
jA jA
AjAy IN jA
jAIN
A
The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas for you to
choose from. From all across India, Nepal and the rest of the subcontinent.
Holidays you will cherish, and remember for a lifetime. Something you will
share with others and evoke envy - prompting friends to ask you more so
they too can head out on the same path. All put together in the form of
books for you.
Want to have a great time travelling? Visit
http://kunzum.com/travellist
The Kunzum Travel List is currently available as an e-book in PDF format and for the iPad and Kindle.

36. kunzum
travel mag
We travel.
And share our stories
with you.
Read these anywhere
on your
Also available for online reading athttp://issuu.com/kunzum
sUBscriBe for free @
http://kunzum.com/mag
advertise
with
...and reach out to all those who love the idea of travel
we have many options for you to choose from -
ensuring you always get your customer
kunzum.com | Social media - Facebook & twitter
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Sponsorshops | kunzum travel mag
We can propose a media plan to suit your objectives.
Ping us 18 mail@kunzum.com
at +91.9910044476/+91.9650702777

37. HOTEL REVIEW
iOra, the retreat
Kaziranga National Park, Assam
I
f you are looking for modern
comforts when visiting the Kaziranga
National Park, Iora is the place you
should choose to stay. The property has
all the comforts you can ask for, with
high quality furnishings, satellite TV, a
fully functional restaurant and more.
The problem is the property could be
anywhere in the world; it has little to
show that it is at the world heritage site
of Kaziranga National Park. Go there
if you want plush accommodation • Service: Good service. Housekeeping • location: Very good location, near
between your jungle safaris. does their job well, you are well served the entrance to two of the main zones
at the restaurant and the guest relations of the park.
staff is very courteous and helpful.
• amenitieS: You have Wi-Fi
• roomS: Different categories of rooms internet but it is erratic and works
with clean, good quality furniture, sheets best in the lobby area. There is a
COntaCt and towels. Air-conditioning in all rooms swimming pool too.
Bogorijuri, Kohora for the summer months. Bathrooms have
Kaziranga National Park, running hot and cold showers. You have • food Quality: Quite nice food.
Assam - 785109 satellite television offering a wide variety With a vast selection of cuisines
Tel:+91.3776.262411 / 262412 / 262437, of channels. Rooms have nice sit-outs including local.
+91.9957193550, Fax: +91.3776.262418 for morning and evening tea, or to soak
E-mail: iora@kazirangasafari.com in the sun. You have rooms of different • tariffS: Rs. 3,300 - Rs. 12,000
Website: www.kazirangasafari.com categories going up to suites.
37

38. 38

39. nd
r jo u rn e y s b e y o
tr a v e ll e rs fo
s ir e a m o n g to d a y ’s
a g ro w in g d e a y fr o m re g u
la ri ty
Re s p o n d in g to e e d a b re a k a w
enever you n
th e m a p , w h
Short and intense, our breakaways get you
under the skin of experiences, because travel
today is no longer about transporting people
to someplace else.
Need a breakaway ? Experiences which you
can leisurely unpack over a lifetime ?
Embark, from wherever you are.
http://www.break-away.in/
www.facebook.com/breakaway.in
Call us today at +91 9818845999 or email us at : yourbreakaway@break-away.in
41

40. HOTEL REVIEW
Fish tail lODGe
Fish tail lODGe
Pokhara, Nepal
F ew properties in the world can
match the setting of Fish Tail Lodge
in Pokhara in Nepal. With the Fewa
• Service: Excellent. Staff is very
courteous, and takes good care of the
in well landscaped lawns. And you wake
up in the morning to the chirping of
property and its guests. hundreds of birds, all very soothing for
Tal (lake) on one side, and a forest the soul and the mind.
cover on the other, it is an island of • roomS: Clean, bright with modern
delight. Accentuated with the imposing fittings. While these are very comfortable, • food Quality: Very average. Both
Machhapuchre (Fish Tail) peak almost I would have preferred a look that the breakfast and the dinner were
at touching distance towering over it. blended better with the surroundings nothing to write home about – a pity for
and the culture of Nepal. a property of such high rating.
You get to the property in square boats,
more like covered rafts, that move by • location: Does not get better. In
pulling in a rope tied to the opposite the middle of a lake with forest and high tariff (SuBject to cHange)
bank. Once there, you can make it mountain peaks all around. • Single, Garden Terrace (standard), US$
a base for the many activities and 140, Palm Court (deluxe), US$ 160
attractions offered by Pokhara – or just • attractionS: Besides the landscape • Double, Garden Terrace (standard), US$
stay put for an idyllic, romantic break. around, the property itself has a wide 150, Palm Court (deluxe), US$ 170
variety of trees, flowers and other plants • Extra Bed, US$ 45
It is the place where royalty, film stars
and other famous people stay when COntaCt
they visit Pokhara – not surprising since Address: P.O. Box 10, Pokhara, Nepal
the owners have been related to the Tel: +977.61.465071/460248/460258
erstwhile royal families of Nepal. Even if Fax: +977.61.465072
this were not the case, many a guest may E-mail: info@fishtail-lodge.com.np
still have chosen this as the place to stay. Website: http://www.fishtail-lodge.com
40

41. 19

42. The Wanderer’s Palate
A chick for every
season!! By Meena Vaidyanathan
I’ve eaten chickpeas (garbanzo beans, he would have to make to do with the and frankly a bit unbelievable!
as some know it better) all my life. And meager prison food. But I have read about this legend
I had no particular love or hate for this in enough places over many years
lentil, until I heard this story. Legend has The cook, taking pity on the and tried many recipes using this
it that when Aurangzeb imprisoned his Emperor’s condition told him amazing little protein ball to come
father, Emperor Shah Jehan, for nearly to choose the ‘chickpea’ and he to believe that Emperor Shah Jehan
eight years, he offered him, rather promised him that he would make made the right choice after all! Try
benevolently, that he would allow him him a new dish out of the lowly lentil this instant kebab recipe and give
to choose one dish of his choice that he every single day. 365 dishes using your feedback whether you agree
could have everyday; at all other times, the chickpea!!! Sounds amazing, with me (and the Emperor!) or not!
coarsely ground black pepper as a good substitute! Sometimes, when
2 green chillies finely chopped (those I am feeling adventurous, I also add
who have a low threshold for chillies a fistful of soaked soyabean nuggets
like me, may de-seed the chilles, but 2 into the mixture, and the kebabs get a
chillies are needed for the flavor), along distinct flavor and crispiness.
with finely chopped coriander
Salt to taste The Arabs used to extol the virtues
the traDitiOnal reCiPe of chickpeas for their aphrodisiacal
procedure properties and used to consume a fair
ingredients Blend all ingredients together. Add more amount especially while travelling as
1 cup of boiled chickpeas (a cup of bread if needed and keep kneading they believed it enhances their energy
leftover “chole” or even humus can until it comes to a consistency that levels. I don’t know if this chickpea
be used instead of freshly boiled allows you to make small cutlets out of kebab recipe will er… influence your
chickpeas) the mixture. Shallow or deep fry (as you energy levels, but it is sure to satisfy
1 cup of bread crumbs (for those who prefer…shallow frying gives it a melting your gastronomic urges!
are lazy like me can also use fresh bread taste but takes longer to cook, while
loosely crumbled!) deep fried “kebabs” are crispier and I can visualize Emperor Shah Jehan
1 teaspoon each of cumin seeds, chaat faster to cook). Bingo! Chickpea kebabs savouring these yummy chickpea
masala (can also use garam masala if are ready to serve. They taste divine kebabs while gazing into the Taj Mahal
you don’t have chaat masala), caraway with mint chutney, but in a hurry, the from his prison window longingly! Can
seeds (optional), coriander powder and good old tomato ketchup also serves you?
got more queries? Send them across to meena at meena.vaidyanathan@gmail.com.
you may also follow meena’s blog, www.lifeintwohours.com.

44. viswaprasad raju is a Hyderabad-based advertising professional, and is also a random sketchcrawler, a weekly cartoonist and an occasional
travel writer. He collects cheap souvenirs like coasters and dreams of expensive holiday breaks to a national park (any state) or anywhere in
europe (any country). presently he is working on a screenplay for a feature film.
connect with him at viswaprasadraju@gmail.com or find him at
http://facebook.com/viswaprasadraju and http://hyderabadadvtg.blogspot.com.

45. BOOK REVIEW
tHree Men
in a Boat
if only all travel books were written like this…
By Nimish Dubey
There are travel books that tell you about and wit aplenty. There are hilarious the perils of camping out under the open
how people went about a particular accounts of how the threesome tried to sky:
journey. There are those that tell you pitch tent on the riverside, of the visits
about places that people visited. Of they paid to the local inns (yes, there is the “Camping out in rainy weather is not
the people they met. Of the food they famous incident of a fish on display that pleasant.
ate. And so forth. And there are a few everyone claims to have caught – only
rare ones do all of this and leave you for it to turn out to be an artificial one) It is evening. You are wet through, and
breathless with laughter while doing so. and of course, all the people they meet, there is a good two inches of water in
Jerome K Jerome’s Three Men in a Boat is pleasant and otherwise. In spite of being the boat, and all the things are damp.
a book that falls in this rare, last category. You find a place on the banks that is not
It not only tells you about the trip that quite so puddly as other places you have
three friends – and their dog – undertook seen, and you
on the Thames between Kingston and land and lug out the tent, and two of you
Oxford, but tells it with so much humour proceed to fix it. It is soaked and heavy,
that there are many (and Jawaharlal and it flops about, and tumbles down
Nehru is one of them) who remember on you, and clings round your head
the book mainly for its good humour and and makes you mad. The rain is pouring
cheery tone. steadily down all the time. It is difficult
enough to fix a tent in dry weather: in
Three Men in a Boat starts off with wet, the task becomes herculean. Instead
three friends, J (the author), George of helping you, it seems to you that the
and William Samuel Harris being bored other man is simply playing the fool. Just
to death and wondering what to do. as you get your side beautifully fixed, he
Harris suggests a sea cruise but this is gives it a hoist from his end, and spoils it
converted to a cruise on the Thames all.”
(after some very interesting descriptions
of the perils of travelling on the sea). As the best of friends, J, George and Harris Sounds familiar, does it not? And yet it is
Jerome points out, the vote for the cruise seldom agree about things, and as none narrated with such skill that you will be
stood at three to one – the only voice of of them consider the others’ opinions to hard pressed to keep a straight face while
dissent coming from Montmorency, the be worth much (“That’s Harris all over – reading it. Three Men in a Boat is a slim
author’s dog who rather plainitively (but so ready to take the burden of everything volume by most standards but seldom
silently) complains: “There’s nothing for himself, and put it on the backs of other have so few pages given so many people
me to do. Scenery is not in my line, and I people,” remarks J in an aside to the so many reasons to laugh. Read this
don’t smoke. If I see a rat, you won’t stop; reader), this results in a number of very book. Not just if you like travel, but if you
and if I go to sleep, you get fooling about interesting arguments that more often like to be entertained. Or just feel better.
with the boat, and slop me overboard. If than not have disastrous consequences,
you ask me, I call the whole thing bally including a near fatal attempt to open – Laughter is, after all, the best medicine.
foolishness.” yes – a tin of pineapple! And not just for travellers.
Needless to say, poor Montmorency is And even while all this is happening, the Buy it. Or if you prefer to get your laughs
overruled and millions of readers, even English landscape is described in loving without paying a penny, download it for
dog lovers, are glad that he was. For, and affectionate (if occasionally ironic) free from http://www.gutenberg.org/
what follows is without doubt one of detail. There are also genuine pearls of ebooks/308. After all, the best things in
the greatest tales in the history of travel travel wisdom sown for the reader. For life, and even in travel literature, are free.
literature, replete with action, sarcasm instance, hark to what is written about Well, sometimes…
45

46. PHEW!
Finally a place for travellers to meet.
In the real world - not on social media.
To simply bum around. Exchange travel stories. Make travel plans.
Read up & buy travel books. Post travelogues, images & videos. pick up
photographic art. Even write books.
Over coffee and cookies. And free Wi-Fi. Only at the
Travel Cafe
address: T-49, GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016, India
telephone: +91.11.2651 3949 | +91.9650 702 777 |
website: http://kunzum.com/travelcafe | mail@kunzum.com
Open Tuesday - Sunday, 11:00 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. (Mondays Closed)

47. Travel Cafe
When travellers come calling at the Kunzum Travel Cafe, they often leave a note
behind for us. Here are some from the wall. Come over for coffee, and write one too.

48. The Handwritten Travelogue
We love to hear travel stories from our guests when they visit the Kunzum Travel Cafe
in New Delhi. Better still, we like them to write the same in our scrapbook for others to
read - like what you see here. Do you have one to share too? We are waiting...

49. The stunning Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) is a breeding visitor to Sikkim and
Arunachal Pradesh and can be seen on mulberry trees © Rajat Bhargava/WWF-india
You don’t like ugly paan stains; neither does nature
The Green Hiker Campaign is a part of WWF's initiative to conserve Himalayan high altitude
wetlands. The Ministry of Tourism, Government of India is a partner to the campaign.
greenhiker@wwfindia.net www.wwfindia.org/greenhiker

50. PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP
a book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions
and commentary by ajay jain
If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again.
The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom,
keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and
entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant
to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’
The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor
advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic
strips in this country?
Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary
thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you
letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.
for more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit
www.peeppeepdontsleep.com
Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle
36

51. Postcards from Ladakh
a pictorial travelogue by ajay jain
Postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will
- frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles)
across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas.
Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this
high altitude cold desert.
You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the
faith they live by, the hope they live on…Each of them will spontaneously greet
you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society.
No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just haven’t had the time to meet them all...
for more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit
www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh
Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle

52. A picture may be worth a thousand words
But the Kunzum PhotoTalkies are a journey in themselves
What are Phototalkies?
Simply put, these are photo essays - only packing
a bigger punch. With more images and supporting
text than an essay you would see in a newspaper or
a magazine. Current versions have been designed as
a PDF - to be viewed on any device supporting this
format. But it is best seen on an iPad.
And these are all Free! Looks like it is the season of
freebies from Kunzum.
http://kunzum.com/phototalkies

53. S i n c e 2007, Kunzum has served as an i m p o r t a n t g u i d e f o r t r a v e l l e r s p l a n n i n g j o u r n e y s
i n I n dia and the subcontinent - and so m e i n t e r n a t i o n a l d e s t i n a t i o n s t o o .
i n t rodUctions first …
K u n zum is a high altitude pass in the L a h a u l S p i t i r e g i o n o f H i m a c h a l P r a d e s h i n I n d i a .
A n d the inspiration behind the brand t h a t i s a l l a b o u t m e m o r a b l e t r a v e l e x p e r i e n c e s .
O u r journey started in 2007 as a trave l b l o g b y w r i t e r a n d p h o t o g r a p h e r, A j a y J a i n . A n d
w e h ave crossed many milestones - li t e r a l l y a n d f i g u r a t i v e l y - s i n c e t h e n .
k U n ZUm. com
An independent, objective and one of the most trusted online travel information websites
in India. A unique style of writing, peppered with anecdotes and illustrated with high
quality photographs and videos, have won the site a fan following of tens of thousands of
travellers. More at http://kunzum.com.
t H e k U n ZU m traV e L maG
A u n i q u e p r o d u c t , i t i s a m o n t h l y e - m a g a v a i l a b l e a s a P D F, f o r t h e i P a d a n d
Kindle, and for online reading with flipping pages on Issuu.com. Subscription is
FREE at http://kunzum.com/mag.
pU B LisHin G
We publish engaging and quality travel books and guides in both traditional
formats as well as e-books (for the iPad, Amazon’s Kindle, other mobile readers
and all computers). More at http://kunzum.com/books.
c U r ator of co LLecti BLe pHotoG r a pHi c a r t
Available for your walls at home, office or resort and also as stock imagery
for publishing and promotional materials. All printed on archival paper to last
g e n e r a t i o n s . The prints are also on d i s p l a y a t t h e K u n z u m Tr a v e l C a f é . C h e c k t h e
c o l l ection at htt p://kunzumgallery.com .
k U n ZU m traV eL cafÉ
A nother unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to
come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas
Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate
in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make
travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at
http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.
COntaC t us Facebook
http://facebook.com/kunzum
ajay j ain | ajay@ajayjain.com | +91.99100 44476 twitter
s hruti s harma | shruti@kunzum.com | +91.98119 84545 http://twitter.com/kunzum
yo u t u b e
links http://youtube.com/kunzum
Online vimeo
http://kunzum.com http://vimeo.com/kunzum

54. a BOut ajay jain
Ajay Jain is a full time writer, journalist
and photographer based in New Delhi in
India. He is not limited in his medium of
expression, equally comfortable writing for
newspapers and magazines, as well as his
own books and blogs.
Starting his writing career in 2001, he has
been covering business, technology and
youth affairs before deciding to focus
wholly on travel writing. He pursues his
passion by being on the road as much as
he can.
He has written three books, the latest
being Postcards from Ladakh (http://
www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh),
a pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His
first, Let’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get
Ahead at Work, is a management book on
professional networking using the world’s
most popular professional networking site
LinkedIn.com. It was published in early
2008. His other book, and his first travel
book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www.
peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of
funny road signs and advertisements.
H e h a s w o r ke d fo r a n d w r i t t e n c o l u m n s
C O n taC t fo r n a t i o n a l p u b l i c a t i o n s i n I n d i a
Email: ajay@ajayjain.com including The Hindustan Times, Mint,
M o b i l e : + 91. 9 910 0 4 4 4 76 F i n a n c i a l E x p re s s , I n d i a n M a n a g e m e n t
( B u s i n e s s S t a n d a rd ) , O u t l o o k B u s i n e s s ,
D e c c a n H e ra l d , M u m b a i M i r ro r ( T i m e s o f
links India), Discover India, Swagat, Asian Age
Facebook and Rediff.com. He has also edited a
http://facebook.com/ajayjain9 yo u t h n e w s p a p e r, T h e C a m p u s Pa p e r.
twitter P r i o r t o t a k i n g u p w r i t i n g , h e h a s w o r ke d
h t t p : / / t w i t t e r. c o m / a j a y j a i n i n t h e I n fo r m a t i o n Te c h n o l o g y a n d S p o r t s
M a n a g e m e n t s e c t o r s . H e h o l d s d e g re e s
linkedin Mechanical Engineering (Delhi College
h t t p : / / w w w. l i n ke d i n . c o m / i n / o f E n g i n e e r i n g , 19 9 2 ) , M a n a g e m e n t
ajayjain9 ( F o re S c h o o l o f M a n a g e m e n t , 19 9 4 )
a n d J o u r n a l i s m ( C a rd i f f U n i v e r s i t y, U K ,
2002). His schooling was at St. Columba’s
School in New Delhi.