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BASICS OF SPINNING 
S . S UBRAMANIAN 
-A.M.I.E,M.B.A 
Senior Lecturer 
Department of Textile Technology 
Rukmini Shanmugam Polytechnic College 
Varichiyur 
Madurai-625 020 
Mobile: 98420/81403 E-mail: subbu3366@yahoo.com
TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY 
One 0f the basic needs of human-beings. 
 food to eat 
 dress to wear 
 house to live. 
 --the dress to wear for the man-kind is 
 Supplied by the textile industry.
TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY 
 SPINNING--------Producing Yarn 
 WEAVING---------Producing Fabric 
 PROCEESING----Producing dyed &finished fabric 
 KNITTING--------Producing inner wears 
 garment-----------Ready to use goods
TYPES OF YARNS 
Carded Yarn : Used as warp and weft yarns in 
weaving and production of fabrics. 
Combed Yarn 
Knitted Yarn: : banians,jetty and others. 
Industrial Yarn : Doubled,plied,cable ,tyre cord 
yarns 
Fancy Yarns : slub,snarl,cork-screw and many
SEQUENCES OF PROCESSES 
 Ginning 
 Mixing 
 Blow-Room 
 Carding 
 Draw-Frame 
 Simpex 
 Ring spinning 
 Cone winding or Reeling
YARN MANUFACTURE 
Ginning Separating the cotton from the seed 
 -Cleaned Cotton 
Blow Room Initial opening and cleaning of cotton 
 -Lap 
Carding Fiber to fiber separation 
 -Card Sliver 
Drawing Parellelisation and uniformity 
 -Draw-Frame Sliver
PRODUCT FLOW 
Yarn manufacturing is a continuous process. 
The raw matl cotton is converted into yarn continuously in a 
sequence of process. 
 Seed cotton 
 Cleaned cotton 
 Lap 
 Card Sliver 
 Draw Sliver 
 Roving [rope form] 
 Yarn in cops 
 Yarn in cones 
 Cones are packed in Bales.
GINNING 
Ginning is the process of separting the seed from the 
seed cotton. 
Cleaned cotton is called as the Lint. 
160-180 kgs of cotton are packed in jute or polythene 
bags and sent to spinning mills for further processing. 
First stage in the yarn manufacture.
BLOW-ROOM 
 Opening and cleaning of fibres. 
 opg & clg machines in the br line 
 set of machineries 
Opg by wire points and strikers in the rollers/beaters. 
Opens to small tufts. 
Lap- forming Unit 
 2 beaters and calender rollers converts the opened 
fibres to a sheet form and produces a continuous cotton 
sheet in a roller 
This is known us ‘LAP’
Carding 
Fiber to Fibrer Seperation or Indivizulisation of fibers 
Rollers covered with wire points. 
100 of a Draft is given 
LAP is converted to Card Sliver.
DRAW-FRAME 
Parellelisation and Uniformity . 
8 0f a slivers are doubled and 8 of a draft is given. 
Doubling is the combination of the material 
Doubling improves uniformity
SIMPLEX 
OBJECTS 
 Drafting 
 Twisting 
 Winding 
 Building 
Draw-frame sliver is converted to ROVING.
SIMPLEX-2 
4pairs of Rollers. 
Front zone,Middle zone, Back zone Drafts 
Twist is introduced to the material [first] 
Flyer introduces twist to the material. 
Rove is wind to the bobbin due to the difference in 
speeds betn the spindle &bobbin. 
Package ,cylindrical body with conical ends is built by 
building mechanism.
RING SPIINNING FRAME -1 
Ultimate stage of yarn-manufacture 
Roving is converted to yarn. 
Objects Drafting 
 Twisting 
 Winding 
 Building. 
3 pairs of Roller drafting system.
RING SPINNING-2 
Main Draft & Back Draft 
Back or Break draft breaks the twist in the rove and 
prepares the material for main drafting operation. 
Twist is imparted by the traveller. 
Yarn is wound to the spinning cop by the difference 
in speed betn the spindle and traveller. 
Banana shaped cop is built by the building 
mechanism. round bottom with tapered ends.
CONE WINDING 
 Small spg cops are converted into cones to a 
standard wt of lkg cones. 
Easy for subsequent operation warping. 
Further cleaning and compact packages are 
produced. 
Modern Auto cone winders with electronic systems 
are used for producjng superior quality yarn. 
Auto coner spliced are used for Exports.[cone wt- 
3to5kgs]
MODERN SPG TECHNIQUES 
Open-end spinning 
 Also known as sliver to yarn spg 
 From DF slivers yarn is spun. 
 simplex and cone wdg depts are eliminated. 
 Cones of 4-5 kgs are produced. 
 Suitable for only coarser counts up to 30’s. 
 Mass production.
OE SPG PRINCIPLE 
Rotor spinning
MODERN TECHNIQUES 
 Dref spinning 
Air Jet spinning
TECHNICAL TERMS-SPINNING 
 Count 
 Draft 
 Twist
COUNT DEFINITION 
Count of a yarn is a numerical expression which 
defines the fineness . 
 Its also called as Yarn number or linear density of the 
yarn. 
 Yarns are numbered from 1’s to 240’s. 
Quality of the yarn.
English Count Classifn 
 Coarser Count -------l’s to 30 
 Medium--------------31’s to 59 
 Finer------------------60’s to 9o 
 Super fine-----------91’s to 12o and above
YARN NUMBERING 
There are three systems of numbering the yarn. 
 Direct system 
 In-Direct system 
Tex system or Universal system
INDIRECT SYSTEM 
In Direct System 
 count is the no of units of length per unit weight of 
yarn. 
 higher the count finer the yarn. 
 Generally used for cotton,woolen, worsted and linen 
yarns.
COUNT D.S 
Direct System 
 Count is the no of units of weight per unit 
length of the yarn. 
 Directly expresses the size of the Yarn 
 Higher the number, Coarser the Yarn. 
 Used for Silk ,jute.
DIRECT SYSTEM 
 Different Systems in Direct System 
 wt per unit length is the basis. 
 s.no system name weight ut Length ut 
 1 silk, Nylon 0.05 gram 450 
mts 
 2 jute, hemp 1lb pound 14400 
mts 
 3 Tex 1 gm 1000 mts 
 4 Denier 1gm 9000 mts
INDIRECT SYSTEM 
I n D i r e c t s y stem 
S.no Name of the system Weight ut Length ut 
1 Cotton-English 1lb Hank of 840 yds 
2 Cotton-French ½ kg Hank of 1000mts 
3 Cotton-Metric 1kg Hank of 1000mts 
4 Spun Silk 1lb Hank of 840 yds 
5 Linen 1lb Lea of 300 yds 
6 Worsted 1lb Hank of 560 yds 
7 Wollen [american ] 1lb cut of 300 yds
COUNT U.S 
Universal System 
 Tex system is called as universal system. 
 A direct system of yarn numbering 
 Introduced by ISO and various organisations of 
textile sector 
 Applicable to yarns made from natural & synthetic 
fibres. 
used from fibre to yarn stage. 
Recoginised all over the World.
TEX SYSTEM UNITS 
Tex System 
 Fibre---- milli tex 
 yarn-----N0 of gms in 1000 metres. 
 cords, ropes &twines---- Kilo tex.
English Count Defnition
English Count Explanation 
English Count 
 lx840 yards = l pound[840 yds] l’s 
count 
 lox840 yards= l pound[8400] lo’s count 
 loox840yards= lpound[84000]loo’s 
coun 
 8400 yards also weighing l pound. 
 How it is possible? 
When the length increases, the thickness or wt of the
DRAFT DEFINITION 
DRAFT 
Drafting is the process of attenuating or increasing 
the length per unit weight of the material
ACHIEVING THE DRAFT 
The successive pairs of rollers are revolving at a relatively higher surface speed 
than the preceding pairs of rollers. 
By this difference in speeds , the material gets stretched or attenuated or , 
elongated and thus drafting takes place in the spinning machines.
DRAFT EXAMPLE 
Example 
Take a rubberband. 
Hold it in your left hand and stretch the rubber band with 
your right hand. 
The length of the band increases and the thickness reduces. 
The same thing happens to the cotton in the drafting zone. 
Length increases and thickness or wt of the tuft decreases 
due to the difference in the speeds of the drafting rollers.
RUBBER BAND 
11/1/11
RUBBER BAND 
11/1/11
Main Zone Draft 
MAIN DRAFT 
Draft between the front roller and the back roller 
Main Draft= Surface speed of Front Roller 
--------------------------------------- 
surface speed of Back Roller
MIDDLE ZONE DRAFT 
Draft between the 3 roller and 2 roller 
 MZD= S.S of 3 roller 
S.S of2 roller
BACK ZONE DRAFT 
 
 Draft between back roller and 3 roller 
 BZD= SSof 4roller 
 SS of 3roller 
Also called as Break Draft. Breaks the twist in the 
material and opens the fibers for main drafting action.
Draft Formulas 
Actual draft = Hank of material del 
Hank of material fed 
wt/ ut length of matl fed 
wt/ ut length of matl delivered. 
= Mechanical draft x[100 +Waste%]/was 
Total Draft= Product of all Zonal Drafts
TWIST DEFN 
Skinkle defines twist as the number of spiral turns 
given to a yarn in order to hold the constituent fibers 
or threads together. 
 In a spinning process,a strand of fiber in a parallel 
form is drafted and twisted on its own axis to form a 
Yarn. 
Expressed as the number of turns per unit length of 
yarn. 
Turns/Inch TPI or Turns/metre TPM. 

TWIST 
OBJECTS 
 To impart strength to the yarn 
 To orient the fibers to the central axis 
 To prevent slough-off 
 To produce a compact package
TWIST FORMULA 
 TPI= TM x Hank of Rove 
 = TM or TF x Count of Yarn. 
Twist Multiplier or Twist Factor is directly 
proportional to the tangent of the twist angle. 
The value of tm is decided by the spinner based on 
experience and the norms given by SITRA.
TWIST 
Direction of Twist 
S-Twist 
when the spirals are in line with the central 
portion of the letter S. 
Z-Twist 
when the spirals are in line with the central 
portion of the letter Z.
CONCLUSION 
FEED BACK & CLARIFICATION 
11/1/11 
CONCLUSION 
FEED BACK & CLARIFICATION 
THANK U

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Spinning basic final

  • 1. BASICS OF SPINNING S . S UBRAMANIAN -A.M.I.E,M.B.A Senior Lecturer Department of Textile Technology Rukmini Shanmugam Polytechnic College Varichiyur Madurai-625 020 Mobile: 98420/81403 E-mail: subbu3366@yahoo.com
  • 2. TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY One 0f the basic needs of human-beings.  food to eat  dress to wear  house to live.  --the dress to wear for the man-kind is  Supplied by the textile industry.
  • 3. TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY  SPINNING--------Producing Yarn  WEAVING---------Producing Fabric  PROCEESING----Producing dyed &finished fabric  KNITTING--------Producing inner wears  garment-----------Ready to use goods
  • 4. TYPES OF YARNS Carded Yarn : Used as warp and weft yarns in weaving and production of fabrics. Combed Yarn Knitted Yarn: : banians,jetty and others. Industrial Yarn : Doubled,plied,cable ,tyre cord yarns Fancy Yarns : slub,snarl,cork-screw and many
  • 5. SEQUENCES OF PROCESSES  Ginning  Mixing  Blow-Room  Carding  Draw-Frame  Simpex  Ring spinning  Cone winding or Reeling
  • 6. YARN MANUFACTURE Ginning Separating the cotton from the seed  -Cleaned Cotton Blow Room Initial opening and cleaning of cotton  -Lap Carding Fiber to fiber separation  -Card Sliver Drawing Parellelisation and uniformity  -Draw-Frame Sliver
  • 7. PRODUCT FLOW Yarn manufacturing is a continuous process. The raw matl cotton is converted into yarn continuously in a sequence of process.  Seed cotton  Cleaned cotton  Lap  Card Sliver  Draw Sliver  Roving [rope form]  Yarn in cops  Yarn in cones  Cones are packed in Bales.
  • 8. GINNING Ginning is the process of separting the seed from the seed cotton. Cleaned cotton is called as the Lint. 160-180 kgs of cotton are packed in jute or polythene bags and sent to spinning mills for further processing. First stage in the yarn manufacture.
  • 9. BLOW-ROOM  Opening and cleaning of fibres.  opg & clg machines in the br line  set of machineries Opg by wire points and strikers in the rollers/beaters. Opens to small tufts. Lap- forming Unit  2 beaters and calender rollers converts the opened fibres to a sheet form and produces a continuous cotton sheet in a roller This is known us ‘LAP’
  • 10. Carding Fiber to Fibrer Seperation or Indivizulisation of fibers Rollers covered with wire points. 100 of a Draft is given LAP is converted to Card Sliver.
  • 11. DRAW-FRAME Parellelisation and Uniformity . 8 0f a slivers are doubled and 8 of a draft is given. Doubling is the combination of the material Doubling improves uniformity
  • 12. SIMPLEX OBJECTS  Drafting  Twisting  Winding  Building Draw-frame sliver is converted to ROVING.
  • 13. SIMPLEX-2 4pairs of Rollers. Front zone,Middle zone, Back zone Drafts Twist is introduced to the material [first] Flyer introduces twist to the material. Rove is wind to the bobbin due to the difference in speeds betn the spindle &bobbin. Package ,cylindrical body with conical ends is built by building mechanism.
  • 14. RING SPIINNING FRAME -1 Ultimate stage of yarn-manufacture Roving is converted to yarn. Objects Drafting  Twisting  Winding  Building. 3 pairs of Roller drafting system.
  • 15. RING SPINNING-2 Main Draft & Back Draft Back or Break draft breaks the twist in the rove and prepares the material for main drafting operation. Twist is imparted by the traveller. Yarn is wound to the spinning cop by the difference in speed betn the spindle and traveller. Banana shaped cop is built by the building mechanism. round bottom with tapered ends.
  • 16. CONE WINDING  Small spg cops are converted into cones to a standard wt of lkg cones. Easy for subsequent operation warping. Further cleaning and compact packages are produced. Modern Auto cone winders with electronic systems are used for producjng superior quality yarn. Auto coner spliced are used for Exports.[cone wt- 3to5kgs]
  • 17. MODERN SPG TECHNIQUES Open-end spinning  Also known as sliver to yarn spg  From DF slivers yarn is spun.  simplex and cone wdg depts are eliminated.  Cones of 4-5 kgs are produced.  Suitable for only coarser counts up to 30’s.  Mass production.
  • 18. OE SPG PRINCIPLE Rotor spinning
  • 19. MODERN TECHNIQUES  Dref spinning Air Jet spinning
  • 20. TECHNICAL TERMS-SPINNING  Count  Draft  Twist
  • 21. COUNT DEFINITION Count of a yarn is a numerical expression which defines the fineness .  Its also called as Yarn number or linear density of the yarn.  Yarns are numbered from 1’s to 240’s. Quality of the yarn.
  • 22. English Count Classifn  Coarser Count -------l’s to 30  Medium--------------31’s to 59  Finer------------------60’s to 9o  Super fine-----------91’s to 12o and above
  • 23. YARN NUMBERING There are three systems of numbering the yarn.  Direct system  In-Direct system Tex system or Universal system
  • 24. INDIRECT SYSTEM In Direct System  count is the no of units of length per unit weight of yarn.  higher the count finer the yarn.  Generally used for cotton,woolen, worsted and linen yarns.
  • 25. COUNT D.S Direct System  Count is the no of units of weight per unit length of the yarn.  Directly expresses the size of the Yarn  Higher the number, Coarser the Yarn.  Used for Silk ,jute.
  • 26. DIRECT SYSTEM Different Systems in Direct System  wt per unit length is the basis.  s.no system name weight ut Length ut  1 silk, Nylon 0.05 gram 450 mts  2 jute, hemp 1lb pound 14400 mts  3 Tex 1 gm 1000 mts  4 Denier 1gm 9000 mts
  • 27. INDIRECT SYSTEM I n D i r e c t s y stem S.no Name of the system Weight ut Length ut 1 Cotton-English 1lb Hank of 840 yds 2 Cotton-French ½ kg Hank of 1000mts 3 Cotton-Metric 1kg Hank of 1000mts 4 Spun Silk 1lb Hank of 840 yds 5 Linen 1lb Lea of 300 yds 6 Worsted 1lb Hank of 560 yds 7 Wollen [american ] 1lb cut of 300 yds
  • 28. COUNT U.S Universal System  Tex system is called as universal system.  A direct system of yarn numbering  Introduced by ISO and various organisations of textile sector  Applicable to yarns made from natural & synthetic fibres. used from fibre to yarn stage. Recoginised all over the World.
  • 29. TEX SYSTEM UNITS Tex System  Fibre---- milli tex  yarn-----N0 of gms in 1000 metres.  cords, ropes &twines---- Kilo tex.
  • 31. English Count Explanation English Count  lx840 yards = l pound[840 yds] l’s count  lox840 yards= l pound[8400] lo’s count  loox840yards= lpound[84000]loo’s coun  8400 yards also weighing l pound.  How it is possible? When the length increases, the thickness or wt of the
  • 32. DRAFT DEFINITION DRAFT Drafting is the process of attenuating or increasing the length per unit weight of the material
  • 33. ACHIEVING THE DRAFT The successive pairs of rollers are revolving at a relatively higher surface speed than the preceding pairs of rollers. By this difference in speeds , the material gets stretched or attenuated or , elongated and thus drafting takes place in the spinning machines.
  • 34. DRAFT EXAMPLE Example Take a rubberband. Hold it in your left hand and stretch the rubber band with your right hand. The length of the band increases and the thickness reduces. The same thing happens to the cotton in the drafting zone. Length increases and thickness or wt of the tuft decreases due to the difference in the speeds of the drafting rollers.
  • 37. Main Zone Draft MAIN DRAFT Draft between the front roller and the back roller Main Draft= Surface speed of Front Roller --------------------------------------- surface speed of Back Roller
  • 38. MIDDLE ZONE DRAFT Draft between the 3 roller and 2 roller  MZD= S.S of 3 roller S.S of2 roller
  • 39. BACK ZONE DRAFT   Draft between back roller and 3 roller  BZD= SSof 4roller  SS of 3roller Also called as Break Draft. Breaks the twist in the material and opens the fibers for main drafting action.
  • 40. Draft Formulas Actual draft = Hank of material del Hank of material fed wt/ ut length of matl fed wt/ ut length of matl delivered. = Mechanical draft x[100 +Waste%]/was Total Draft= Product of all Zonal Drafts
  • 41. TWIST DEFN Skinkle defines twist as the number of spiral turns given to a yarn in order to hold the constituent fibers or threads together.  In a spinning process,a strand of fiber in a parallel form is drafted and twisted on its own axis to form a Yarn. Expressed as the number of turns per unit length of yarn. Turns/Inch TPI or Turns/metre TPM. 
  • 42. TWIST OBJECTS  To impart strength to the yarn  To orient the fibers to the central axis  To prevent slough-off  To produce a compact package
  • 43. TWIST FORMULA  TPI= TM x Hank of Rove  = TM or TF x Count of Yarn. Twist Multiplier or Twist Factor is directly proportional to the tangent of the twist angle. The value of tm is decided by the spinner based on experience and the norms given by SITRA.
  • 44. TWIST Direction of Twist S-Twist when the spirals are in line with the central portion of the letter S. Z-Twist when the spirals are in line with the central portion of the letter Z.
  • 45. CONCLUSION FEED BACK & CLARIFICATION 11/1/11 CONCLUSION FEED BACK & CLARIFICATION THANK U