SlideShare uma empresa Scribd logo
1 de 3
Baixar para ler offline
METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING
A basic pattern can be prepared by one of two methods: (1) by drafting (2) by draping
fabric on a model or on the person concerned.
DRAFTING AND DRAPING
Drafting may be defined as a system of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical
precision, on the basis of body measurements. This is an effective and economical method
which can be learned easily unlike draping which requires a model, a lot of fabric and
considerable skill.
MERITS AND DEMERITS OF DRAFTING AND DRAPING
Drafted Patterns
Advantages:
1. A good pattern of the right size which has been adjusted to suit your individual
requirements will enable you to obtain a good fit.
2. A pattern prepared on thick paper or card board can be preserved for a long time and
can be used over and over again.
3. By manipulating the basic pattern pieces it is possible to produce patterns for
complicated and original designs. (For example, the basic sleeve can be adapted for a
puff sleeve or bell sleeve etc.)
4. A paper pattern of a particular size can be used to make new patterns of
proportionately larger or smaller sizes by following a systematic procedure called
"grading".
5. Cutting with the help of a paper pattern is quicker and easier than drafting straightaway
on the fabric.
6. Use of a paper pattern will enable you to cut the garment with a minimum amount of
fabric because it is possible for you to try out the placement of pattern pieces in
different ways till you have found the most economical way to keep them.
Disadvantages:
a) It is time consuming process as it takes lot of time to draft the pattern.
b) Unless the techniques and principles of drafting is known it is difficult for the
persons to prepare paper pattern.
3. The paper pattern can be rarely used more than once unless copied on a thick
sheet.
Draping
Advantages:
1. Varies styles can be tried over the model.
2. Very simple to work once when the techniques is learnt.
Disadvantages:
1. Required skin to drape
2. It requires a model
3. It requires lot of fabric
4. Labourious process
5. Not economical as fabric consumption is more
TYPES OF PAPER PATTERNS
1. Commercial patterns prepared on the basis of standard measurements.
2. Patterns drafted using personal measurements.
PATTERNS DRAFTED WITH PERSONAL MEASUREMENTS
To draft your own patterns rather than buy commercial patterns. It is most economical,
and not too laborious once you have understood the principles of drafting.
28
As you are drafting the pattern based on your personal measurements, the garment will
fit you better especially if your measurements don't have the same proportions as the standard
size,
Finally in making your own patterns you have great scope for deriving personal
satisfaction from the freedom to create your own designs.
4.2.2 COMMERCIAL PATTERNS
Development of Commercial patterns: Commercial patterns were first made in U.S.A in
the 1850's by Ebenezer Butterick who was a tailor. In the beginning they were crude patterns
in rough paper, for simple designs only. The first patterns were for men's and boys' clothing.
Patterns for women and children were also developed later and became available
commercially. You may have seen fashion magazines like Vogue, McCall's Pictorial,
Simplicity etc, and their pattern books.
Commercial patterns are usually done on tissue paper. Since tissue paper is not bulky, it
allows many pieces of pattern to be packed compactly in an envelope. In commercial patterns
seam allowances are included for safety. Patterns of established companies are usually
printed and marked clearly with straight grain lines, seam lines, cutting lines, darts, centre
lines and all the necessary construction details. Good patterns are carefully labelled with the
following information : the pattern size, name of each pattern (back, front, sleeve etc),
number of pieces to cut from each pattern piece etc In addition some companies provide
instruction sheets explaining the steps involved in using the pattern to cut out the garment,
transferring pattern markings, and constructing the garment.
In India there are very few concerns making paper patterns probably because there is not
much demand for them. Unlike in foreign countries we have the facility to get our clothes
custom tailored at fairly reasonable rates. Housewives and women who know a little bit of
tailoring prefer to make their own patterns rather than buying expensive ready made patterns.
This may be another .reason for the lack of demand for commercial pattern.
.
INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN DRAFTING
The basic blocks can be drafted to fit individual figures by using personal measurements
instead of the standard ones. The basic pattern is also referred to as sloper, block, master or
foundation pattern. It consist of five pattern pieces – Bodice front, bodice back, skirt front,
skirt back and the sleeve. The basic pattern can have only a minimum number of darts and
seams and it should fit the body comfortably without being tight or loose. The designer uses a
foundation block as a basis for making the pattern for a design. She may introduce style lines,
tucks, gathers, pleats or drapes.
PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN DRAFTING AND PATTERN DETAILS
Drafting can be done on ordinary brown paper which should not however be too thin.
To obtain an accurate draft, use a sharp pencil, and a ruler for drawing straight lines. To get
the corners at right angles, keep an L scale or set squares ready. Before drafting, it is
important to understand the procedures and instructions clearly, and to have practice in
drawing a well balanced pattern with smooth curves and straight lines. You must understand
the following principles before starting to attempt drafting.
1. Patterns must be made larger than body measurements to allow for freedom of
movement, ease of action and comfort in wearing. Recommended ease allowance for various
parts of the body are listed below.
30
Bust 3" to 5" (3" for a tight fitting garment and 5" for loose fitting one); waist ¼" to ½";
hip 3" to 5"; upper arm 3" to 4"; arm hole depth 1"; bodice length nil; sleeve length nil; skirt
length nil.
2. For symmetric designs where the right and left sides are alike, paper pattern for half
front and half back only need to be made: For the bodice, start the drafting with the back part.
For sleeves, full pattern must be drafted.
3. It is better to draft the primary or basic pattern blocks—plain bodice, plain sleeve,
plain skirt without seam allowances. When this is done, be sure to leave seam allowances
while laying out the pattern on the material at the time of cutting. If you do not have much
experience in cutting, and want to avoid the risk of cutting without seam allowance, you
may add seam allowances to your paper pattern itself after completing the draft.
4. The following construction details and information should be recorded and marked
clearly.
a) Name of each piece of pattern (bodice front, bodice back, sleeve etc),
b) Number of pieces to be cut with each pattern piece. (For example, for a back
open dress you have to cut 1 front, 2 backs and 2 sleeves),
c) If seam allowances are not included in the draft, this should be mentioned. If
seam allowances are included, seam lines and cutting lines should be clearly
shown,
d) Length wise or straight grain line should be drawn with a red pencil as shown (<-
---->) on all pattern pieces. This line indicates that the pattern should be kept on
the cloth in such a way that the line is parallel to the length of the cloth or the
selvedges. It is usually drawn parallel to the centre front and centre back edges of
the pattern,
e) Provide matching notches or balance marks if necessary along seams to show
which seams are to be joined together and where,
f) Centre front and centre back line should be marked. It is advantageous to cut
outward notches at centre front and centre back of pattern pieces because at the
time of assembling the garment, notches on collars can be matched to notches on
the neck line of garment etc.
g) Fold lines should be clearly shown. Fold lines appear along centre front or centre
back edges and sometimes along hems to show where the material is to be
folded,
h) Dart markings, pleat markings etc. should be clearly shown.
sleeve.
REFERENCES
Practical clothing construction, Part I and II, Mary Mathews, Cosmic Press,
Chennai (1986).

Mais conteúdo relacionado

Mais procurados

Mais procurados (20)

Pattern making
Pattern makingPattern making
Pattern making
 
Introduction to Pattern making
Introduction to  Pattern makingIntroduction to  Pattern making
Introduction to Pattern making
 
Bdft ii, d&pm, unit-iii, pattern making term
Bdft ii, d&pm, unit-iii, pattern making termBdft ii, d&pm, unit-iii, pattern making term
Bdft ii, d&pm, unit-iii, pattern making term
 
Methods of pattern making - S. Manohari
Methods of pattern making - S. ManohariMethods of pattern making - S. Manohari
Methods of pattern making - S. Manohari
 
Pattern making men c1& c2
Pattern making men c1& c2Pattern making men c1& c2
Pattern making men c1& c2
 
Draping ppt
Draping pptDraping ppt
Draping ppt
 
775 basic pattern development-ms
775 basic pattern development-ms775 basic pattern development-ms
775 basic pattern development-ms
 
Methods of Pattern Making
Methods of Pattern MakingMethods of Pattern Making
Methods of Pattern Making
 
Concept of pattern draping
Concept of pattern drapingConcept of pattern draping
Concept of pattern draping
 
INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN MAKING
INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN MAKINGINTRODUCTION TO PATTERN MAKING
INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN MAKING
 
Patternmaking
PatternmakingPatternmaking
Patternmaking
 
How to make your own fashion clothes
How to make your own fashion clothesHow to make your own fashion clothes
How to make your own fashion clothes
 
Pm gc class 1
Pm gc class 1Pm gc class 1
Pm gc class 1
 
Study on Pattern Making in Apparel Industry
Study on Pattern Making in Apparel IndustryStudy on Pattern Making in Apparel Industry
Study on Pattern Making in Apparel Industry
 
Pattern Making Deparment
Pattern Making DeparmentPattern Making Deparment
Pattern Making Deparment
 
Garment draping terminology
Garment draping terminologyGarment draping terminology
Garment draping terminology
 
Industrial pattern making
Industrial pattern makingIndustrial pattern making
Industrial pattern making
 
The complete photo guide to sewing
The complete photo guide to sewing The complete photo guide to sewing
The complete photo guide to sewing
 
Yokes and Types
Yokes and TypesYokes and Types
Yokes and Types
 
Draping
DrapingDraping
Draping
 

Semelhante a Bdft ii, d& pm, unit-i, patter making process

Pattern making (english) pari
Pattern making (english) pariPattern making (english) pari
Pattern making (english) paripreranawagh1
 
CRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptx
CRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptxCRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptx
CRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptxSabbirAhmedAbir
 
Bloomsbury fashion central basic dress foundation
Bloomsbury fashion central   basic dress foundationBloomsbury fashion central   basic dress foundation
Bloomsbury fashion central basic dress foundationDivyaSingh468315
 
Three dimensional dress form
Three dimensional dress formThree dimensional dress form
Three dimensional dress formAdithy_Kottangal
 
He module 6
He module 6He module 6
He module 6none
 
Intro to pattern making - S. Manohari
Intro to pattern making - S. ManohariIntro to pattern making - S. Manohari
Intro to pattern making - S. Manoharieeducations ever
 
Dimple Chouhan ,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Dimple Chouhan ,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole CollegeDimple Chouhan ,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Dimple Chouhan ,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole Collegedezyneecole
 
Fashion and textile terminilogy
Fashion and textile terminilogyFashion and textile terminilogy
Fashion and textile terminilogysuniltalekar1
 
Garment manufacturing spreading to pressing
Garment manufacturing spreading to pressingGarment manufacturing spreading to pressing
Garment manufacturing spreading to pressingKarthikeyan M R
 
study on garments pattern , marker, spreading and cuttingApp 3204
study on garments pattern , marker, spreading and cuttingApp 3204study on garments pattern , marker, spreading and cuttingApp 3204
study on garments pattern , marker, spreading and cuttingApp 3204Rashedul Islam
 
Tanuja Sahu,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Tanuja Sahu,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole CollegeTanuja Sahu,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Tanuja Sahu,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole Collegedezyneecole
 
Monika Mehra, Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Monika Mehra, Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole CollegeMonika Mehra, Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Monika Mehra, Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole Collegedezyneecole
 
U 3 introduction to pattern making
U 3 introduction to pattern makingU 3 introduction to pattern making
U 3 introduction to pattern makingkibrom G
 
U 1 introduction to garment industry
U 1 introduction to garment industryU 1 introduction to garment industry
U 1 introduction to garment industrykibrom G
 
15020441094, garment manufacturing
15020441094, garment manufacturing15020441094, garment manufacturing
15020441094, garment manufacturingGaurav Baishya
 
MODULE 3 DRESSMAKING FINAL.pdf
MODULE 3 DRESSMAKING FINAL.pdfMODULE 3 DRESSMAKING FINAL.pdf
MODULE 3 DRESSMAKING FINAL.pdfDelseyCanta
 

Semelhante a Bdft ii, d& pm, unit-i, patter making process (20)

Pattern making (english) pari
Pattern making (english) pariPattern making (english) pari
Pattern making (english) pari
 
CRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptx
CRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptxCRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptx
CRM-Lecture-04 (Pattern & Marker Making).pptx
 
Bloomsbury fashion central basic dress foundation
Bloomsbury fashion central   basic dress foundationBloomsbury fashion central   basic dress foundation
Bloomsbury fashion central basic dress foundation
 
Three dimensional dress form
Three dimensional dress formThree dimensional dress form
Three dimensional dress form
 
He module 6
He module 6He module 6
He module 6
 
Intro to pattern making - S. Manohari
Intro to pattern making - S. ManohariIntro to pattern making - S. Manohari
Intro to pattern making - S. Manohari
 
Dimple Chouhan ,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Dimple Chouhan ,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole CollegeDimple Chouhan ,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Dimple Chouhan ,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
 
Fashion and textile terminilogy
Fashion and textile terminilogyFashion and textile terminilogy
Fashion and textile terminilogy
 
PatternDrafting_PPT.pptx
PatternDrafting_PPT.pptxPatternDrafting_PPT.pptx
PatternDrafting_PPT.pptx
 
Garment manufacturing spreading to pressing
Garment manufacturing spreading to pressingGarment manufacturing spreading to pressing
Garment manufacturing spreading to pressing
 
study on garments pattern , marker, spreading and cuttingApp 3204
study on garments pattern , marker, spreading and cuttingApp 3204study on garments pattern , marker, spreading and cuttingApp 3204
study on garments pattern , marker, spreading and cuttingApp 3204
 
Tanuja Sahu,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Tanuja Sahu,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole CollegeTanuja Sahu,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Tanuja Sahu,Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
 
Draping terminology
Draping terminologyDraping terminology
Draping terminology
 
Marker efficiency
Marker efficiencyMarker efficiency
Marker efficiency
 
Monika Mehra, Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Monika Mehra, Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole CollegeMonika Mehra, Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
Monika Mehra, Fashion Design ,Dezyne E'cole College
 
U 3 introduction to pattern making
U 3 introduction to pattern makingU 3 introduction to pattern making
U 3 introduction to pattern making
 
U 1 introduction to garment industry
U 1 introduction to garment industryU 1 introduction to garment industry
U 1 introduction to garment industry
 
15020441094, garment manufacturing
15020441094, garment manufacturing15020441094, garment manufacturing
15020441094, garment manufacturing
 
MODULE 3 DRESSMAKING FINAL.pdf
MODULE 3 DRESSMAKING FINAL.pdfMODULE 3 DRESSMAKING FINAL.pdf
MODULE 3 DRESSMAKING FINAL.pdf
 
About gauge
About gaugeAbout gauge
About gauge
 

Mais de Rai University

Brochure Rai University
Brochure Rai University Brochure Rai University
Brochure Rai University Rai University
 
Bdft ii, tmt, unit-iii, dyeing & types of dyeing,
Bdft ii, tmt, unit-iii,  dyeing & types of dyeing,Bdft ii, tmt, unit-iii,  dyeing & types of dyeing,
Bdft ii, tmt, unit-iii, dyeing & types of dyeing,Rai University
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.4 publicrevenue-presentation-130208082149-phpapp02
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.4 publicrevenue-presentation-130208082149-phpapp02Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.4 publicrevenue-presentation-130208082149-phpapp02
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.4 publicrevenue-presentation-130208082149-phpapp02Rai University
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.3 public expenditure
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.3 public expenditureBsc agri  2 pae  u-4.3 public expenditure
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.3 public expenditureRai University
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.2 public finance
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.2 public financeBsc agri  2 pae  u-4.2 public finance
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.2 public financeRai University
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.1 introduction
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.1 introductionBsc agri  2 pae  u-4.1 introduction
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.1 introductionRai University
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.3 inflation
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-3.3  inflationBsc agri  2 pae  u-3.3  inflation
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.3 inflationRai University
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.2 introduction to macro economics
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-3.2 introduction to macro economicsBsc agri  2 pae  u-3.2 introduction to macro economics
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.2 introduction to macro economicsRai University
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.1 marketstructure
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-3.1 marketstructureBsc agri  2 pae  u-3.1 marketstructure
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.1 marketstructureRai University
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3 perfect-competition
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-3 perfect-competitionBsc agri  2 pae  u-3 perfect-competition
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3 perfect-competitionRai University
 

Mais de Rai University (20)

Brochure Rai University
Brochure Rai University Brochure Rai University
Brochure Rai University
 
Mm unit 4point2
Mm unit 4point2Mm unit 4point2
Mm unit 4point2
 
Mm unit 4point1
Mm unit 4point1Mm unit 4point1
Mm unit 4point1
 
Mm unit 4point3
Mm unit 4point3Mm unit 4point3
Mm unit 4point3
 
Mm unit 3point2
Mm unit 3point2Mm unit 3point2
Mm unit 3point2
 
Mm unit 3point1
Mm unit 3point1Mm unit 3point1
Mm unit 3point1
 
Mm unit 2point2
Mm unit 2point2Mm unit 2point2
Mm unit 2point2
 
Mm unit 2 point 1
Mm unit 2 point 1Mm unit 2 point 1
Mm unit 2 point 1
 
Mm unit 1point3
Mm unit 1point3Mm unit 1point3
Mm unit 1point3
 
Mm unit 1point2
Mm unit 1point2Mm unit 1point2
Mm unit 1point2
 
Mm unit 1point1
Mm unit 1point1Mm unit 1point1
Mm unit 1point1
 
Bdft ii, tmt, unit-iii, dyeing & types of dyeing,
Bdft ii, tmt, unit-iii,  dyeing & types of dyeing,Bdft ii, tmt, unit-iii,  dyeing & types of dyeing,
Bdft ii, tmt, unit-iii, dyeing & types of dyeing,
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.4 publicrevenue-presentation-130208082149-phpapp02
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.4 publicrevenue-presentation-130208082149-phpapp02Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.4 publicrevenue-presentation-130208082149-phpapp02
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.4 publicrevenue-presentation-130208082149-phpapp02
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.3 public expenditure
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.3 public expenditureBsc agri  2 pae  u-4.3 public expenditure
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.3 public expenditure
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.2 public finance
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.2 public financeBsc agri  2 pae  u-4.2 public finance
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.2 public finance
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.1 introduction
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-4.1 introductionBsc agri  2 pae  u-4.1 introduction
Bsc agri 2 pae u-4.1 introduction
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.3 inflation
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-3.3  inflationBsc agri  2 pae  u-3.3  inflation
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.3 inflation
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.2 introduction to macro economics
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-3.2 introduction to macro economicsBsc agri  2 pae  u-3.2 introduction to macro economics
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.2 introduction to macro economics
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.1 marketstructure
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-3.1 marketstructureBsc agri  2 pae  u-3.1 marketstructure
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3.1 marketstructure
 
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3 perfect-competition
Bsc agri  2 pae  u-3 perfect-competitionBsc agri  2 pae  u-3 perfect-competition
Bsc agri 2 pae u-3 perfect-competition
 

Último

UX Conference on UX Research Trends in 2024
UX Conference on UX Research Trends in 2024UX Conference on UX Research Trends in 2024
UX Conference on UX Research Trends in 2024mikailaoh
 
Construction Documents Checklist before Construction
Construction Documents Checklist before ConstructionConstruction Documents Checklist before Construction
Construction Documents Checklist before ConstructionResDraft
 
Models of Disability - an overview by Marno Retief & Rantoa Letšosa
Models of Disability - an overview by Marno Retief & Rantoa LetšosaModels of Disability - an overview by Marno Retief & Rantoa Letšosa
Models of Disability - an overview by Marno Retief & Rantoa Letšosaannemarleenolthof1
 
Design mental models for managing large-scale dbt projects. March 21, 2024 in...
Design mental models for managing large-scale dbt projects. March 21, 2024 in...Design mental models for managing large-scale dbt projects. March 21, 2024 in...
Design mental models for managing large-scale dbt projects. March 21, 2024 in...Ed Orozco
 
Khushi sharma undergraduate portfolio...
Khushi sharma undergraduate portfolio...Khushi sharma undergraduate portfolio...
Khushi sharma undergraduate portfolio...khushisharma298853
 
Math Group 3 Presentation OLOLOLOLILOOLLOLOL
Math Group 3 Presentation OLOLOLOLILOOLLOLOLMath Group 3 Presentation OLOLOLOLILOOLLOLOL
Math Group 3 Presentation OLOLOLOLILOOLLOLOLkenzukiri
 
The future of UX design support tools - talk Paris March 2024
The future of UX design support tools - talk Paris March 2024The future of UX design support tools - talk Paris March 2024
The future of UX design support tools - talk Paris March 2024Alan Dix
 
AMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements | Barbara Rakovska
AMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements | Barbara RakovskaAMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements | Barbara Rakovska
AMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements | Barbara RakovskaBarusRa
 
How to use Ai for UX UI Design | ChatGPT
How to use Ai for UX UI Design | ChatGPTHow to use Ai for UX UI Design | ChatGPT
How to use Ai for UX UI Design | ChatGPTThink 360 Studio
 
WCM Branding Agency | 210519 - Portfolio Review (F&B) -s.pptx
WCM Branding Agency | 210519 - Portfolio Review (F&B) -s.pptxWCM Branding Agency | 210519 - Portfolio Review (F&B) -s.pptx
WCM Branding Agency | 210519 - Portfolio Review (F&B) -s.pptxHasan S
 
Create Funeral Invites Online @ feedvu.com
Create Funeral Invites Online @ feedvu.comCreate Funeral Invites Online @ feedvu.com
Create Funeral Invites Online @ feedvu.comjakyjhon00
 
Designing for privacy: 3 essential UX habits for product teams
Designing for privacy: 3 essential UX habits for product teamsDesigning for privacy: 3 essential UX habits for product teams
Designing for privacy: 3 essential UX habits for product teamsBlock Party
 
Unlocking Conversion_ The Art of Turning Visitors into Loyal Customers.pdf
Unlocking Conversion_ The Art of Turning Visitors into Loyal Customers.pdfUnlocking Conversion_ The Art of Turning Visitors into Loyal Customers.pdf
Unlocking Conversion_ The Art of Turning Visitors into Loyal Customers.pdfIBM
 
Embroidery design from embroidery magazine
Embroidery design from embroidery magazineEmbroidery design from embroidery magazine
Embroidery design from embroidery magazineRivanEleraki
 
High-Quality Faux Embroidery Services | Cre8iveSkill
High-Quality Faux Embroidery Services | Cre8iveSkillHigh-Quality Faux Embroidery Services | Cre8iveSkill
High-Quality Faux Embroidery Services | Cre8iveSkillCre8iveskill
 
LRFD Bridge Design Specifications-AASHTO (2014).pdf
LRFD Bridge Design Specifications-AASHTO (2014).pdfLRFD Bridge Design Specifications-AASHTO (2014).pdf
LRFD Bridge Design Specifications-AASHTO (2014).pdfHctorFranciscoSnchez1
 
UI UX Process for SaaS Product Design Success
UI UX Process for SaaS Product Design SuccessUI UX Process for SaaS Product Design Success
UI UX Process for SaaS Product Design SuccessThink 360 Studio
 
Introduce Trauma-Informed Design to Your Organization - CSUN ATC 2024
Introduce Trauma-Informed Design to Your Organization - CSUN ATC 2024Introduce Trauma-Informed Design to Your Organization - CSUN ATC 2024
Introduce Trauma-Informed Design to Your Organization - CSUN ATC 2024Ted Drake
 

Último (18)

UX Conference on UX Research Trends in 2024
UX Conference on UX Research Trends in 2024UX Conference on UX Research Trends in 2024
UX Conference on UX Research Trends in 2024
 
Construction Documents Checklist before Construction
Construction Documents Checklist before ConstructionConstruction Documents Checklist before Construction
Construction Documents Checklist before Construction
 
Models of Disability - an overview by Marno Retief & Rantoa Letšosa
Models of Disability - an overview by Marno Retief & Rantoa LetšosaModels of Disability - an overview by Marno Retief & Rantoa Letšosa
Models of Disability - an overview by Marno Retief & Rantoa Letšosa
 
Design mental models for managing large-scale dbt projects. March 21, 2024 in...
Design mental models for managing large-scale dbt projects. March 21, 2024 in...Design mental models for managing large-scale dbt projects. March 21, 2024 in...
Design mental models for managing large-scale dbt projects. March 21, 2024 in...
 
Khushi sharma undergraduate portfolio...
Khushi sharma undergraduate portfolio...Khushi sharma undergraduate portfolio...
Khushi sharma undergraduate portfolio...
 
Math Group 3 Presentation OLOLOLOLILOOLLOLOL
Math Group 3 Presentation OLOLOLOLILOOLLOLOLMath Group 3 Presentation OLOLOLOLILOOLLOLOL
Math Group 3 Presentation OLOLOLOLILOOLLOLOL
 
The future of UX design support tools - talk Paris March 2024
The future of UX design support tools - talk Paris March 2024The future of UX design support tools - talk Paris March 2024
The future of UX design support tools - talk Paris March 2024
 
AMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements | Barbara Rakovska
AMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements | Barbara RakovskaAMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements | Barbara Rakovska
AMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements | Barbara Rakovska
 
How to use Ai for UX UI Design | ChatGPT
How to use Ai for UX UI Design | ChatGPTHow to use Ai for UX UI Design | ChatGPT
How to use Ai for UX UI Design | ChatGPT
 
WCM Branding Agency | 210519 - Portfolio Review (F&B) -s.pptx
WCM Branding Agency | 210519 - Portfolio Review (F&B) -s.pptxWCM Branding Agency | 210519 - Portfolio Review (F&B) -s.pptx
WCM Branding Agency | 210519 - Portfolio Review (F&B) -s.pptx
 
Create Funeral Invites Online @ feedvu.com
Create Funeral Invites Online @ feedvu.comCreate Funeral Invites Online @ feedvu.com
Create Funeral Invites Online @ feedvu.com
 
Designing for privacy: 3 essential UX habits for product teams
Designing for privacy: 3 essential UX habits for product teamsDesigning for privacy: 3 essential UX habits for product teams
Designing for privacy: 3 essential UX habits for product teams
 
Unlocking Conversion_ The Art of Turning Visitors into Loyal Customers.pdf
Unlocking Conversion_ The Art of Turning Visitors into Loyal Customers.pdfUnlocking Conversion_ The Art of Turning Visitors into Loyal Customers.pdf
Unlocking Conversion_ The Art of Turning Visitors into Loyal Customers.pdf
 
Embroidery design from embroidery magazine
Embroidery design from embroidery magazineEmbroidery design from embroidery magazine
Embroidery design from embroidery magazine
 
High-Quality Faux Embroidery Services | Cre8iveSkill
High-Quality Faux Embroidery Services | Cre8iveSkillHigh-Quality Faux Embroidery Services | Cre8iveSkill
High-Quality Faux Embroidery Services | Cre8iveSkill
 
LRFD Bridge Design Specifications-AASHTO (2014).pdf
LRFD Bridge Design Specifications-AASHTO (2014).pdfLRFD Bridge Design Specifications-AASHTO (2014).pdf
LRFD Bridge Design Specifications-AASHTO (2014).pdf
 
UI UX Process for SaaS Product Design Success
UI UX Process for SaaS Product Design SuccessUI UX Process for SaaS Product Design Success
UI UX Process for SaaS Product Design Success
 
Introduce Trauma-Informed Design to Your Organization - CSUN ATC 2024
Introduce Trauma-Informed Design to Your Organization - CSUN ATC 2024Introduce Trauma-Informed Design to Your Organization - CSUN ATC 2024
Introduce Trauma-Informed Design to Your Organization - CSUN ATC 2024
 

Bdft ii, d& pm, unit-i, patter making process

  • 1. METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING A basic pattern can be prepared by one of two methods: (1) by drafting (2) by draping fabric on a model or on the person concerned. DRAFTING AND DRAPING Drafting may be defined as a system of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical precision, on the basis of body measurements. This is an effective and economical method which can be learned easily unlike draping which requires a model, a lot of fabric and considerable skill. MERITS AND DEMERITS OF DRAFTING AND DRAPING Drafted Patterns Advantages: 1. A good pattern of the right size which has been adjusted to suit your individual requirements will enable you to obtain a good fit. 2. A pattern prepared on thick paper or card board can be preserved for a long time and can be used over and over again. 3. By manipulating the basic pattern pieces it is possible to produce patterns for complicated and original designs. (For example, the basic sleeve can be adapted for a puff sleeve or bell sleeve etc.) 4. A paper pattern of a particular size can be used to make new patterns of proportionately larger or smaller sizes by following a systematic procedure called "grading". 5. Cutting with the help of a paper pattern is quicker and easier than drafting straightaway on the fabric. 6. Use of a paper pattern will enable you to cut the garment with a minimum amount of fabric because it is possible for you to try out the placement of pattern pieces in different ways till you have found the most economical way to keep them. Disadvantages: a) It is time consuming process as it takes lot of time to draft the pattern. b) Unless the techniques and principles of drafting is known it is difficult for the persons to prepare paper pattern. 3. The paper pattern can be rarely used more than once unless copied on a thick sheet. Draping Advantages: 1. Varies styles can be tried over the model. 2. Very simple to work once when the techniques is learnt. Disadvantages: 1. Required skin to drape 2. It requires a model 3. It requires lot of fabric 4. Labourious process 5. Not economical as fabric consumption is more TYPES OF PAPER PATTERNS 1. Commercial patterns prepared on the basis of standard measurements. 2. Patterns drafted using personal measurements.
  • 2. PATTERNS DRAFTED WITH PERSONAL MEASUREMENTS To draft your own patterns rather than buy commercial patterns. It is most economical, and not too laborious once you have understood the principles of drafting. 28 As you are drafting the pattern based on your personal measurements, the garment will fit you better especially if your measurements don't have the same proportions as the standard size, Finally in making your own patterns you have great scope for deriving personal satisfaction from the freedom to create your own designs. 4.2.2 COMMERCIAL PATTERNS Development of Commercial patterns: Commercial patterns were first made in U.S.A in the 1850's by Ebenezer Butterick who was a tailor. In the beginning they were crude patterns in rough paper, for simple designs only. The first patterns were for men's and boys' clothing. Patterns for women and children were also developed later and became available commercially. You may have seen fashion magazines like Vogue, McCall's Pictorial, Simplicity etc, and their pattern books. Commercial patterns are usually done on tissue paper. Since tissue paper is not bulky, it allows many pieces of pattern to be packed compactly in an envelope. In commercial patterns seam allowances are included for safety. Patterns of established companies are usually printed and marked clearly with straight grain lines, seam lines, cutting lines, darts, centre lines and all the necessary construction details. Good patterns are carefully labelled with the following information : the pattern size, name of each pattern (back, front, sleeve etc), number of pieces to cut from each pattern piece etc In addition some companies provide instruction sheets explaining the steps involved in using the pattern to cut out the garment, transferring pattern markings, and constructing the garment. In India there are very few concerns making paper patterns probably because there is not much demand for them. Unlike in foreign countries we have the facility to get our clothes custom tailored at fairly reasonable rates. Housewives and women who know a little bit of tailoring prefer to make their own patterns rather than buying expensive ready made patterns. This may be another .reason for the lack of demand for commercial pattern. . INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN DRAFTING The basic blocks can be drafted to fit individual figures by using personal measurements instead of the standard ones. The basic pattern is also referred to as sloper, block, master or foundation pattern. It consist of five pattern pieces – Bodice front, bodice back, skirt front, skirt back and the sleeve. The basic pattern can have only a minimum number of darts and seams and it should fit the body comfortably without being tight or loose. The designer uses a foundation block as a basis for making the pattern for a design. She may introduce style lines, tucks, gathers, pleats or drapes. PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN DRAFTING AND PATTERN DETAILS Drafting can be done on ordinary brown paper which should not however be too thin. To obtain an accurate draft, use a sharp pencil, and a ruler for drawing straight lines. To get the corners at right angles, keep an L scale or set squares ready. Before drafting, it is important to understand the procedures and instructions clearly, and to have practice in drawing a well balanced pattern with smooth curves and straight lines. You must understand the following principles before starting to attempt drafting. 1. Patterns must be made larger than body measurements to allow for freedom of
  • 3. movement, ease of action and comfort in wearing. Recommended ease allowance for various parts of the body are listed below. 30 Bust 3" to 5" (3" for a tight fitting garment and 5" for loose fitting one); waist ¼" to ½"; hip 3" to 5"; upper arm 3" to 4"; arm hole depth 1"; bodice length nil; sleeve length nil; skirt length nil. 2. For symmetric designs where the right and left sides are alike, paper pattern for half front and half back only need to be made: For the bodice, start the drafting with the back part. For sleeves, full pattern must be drafted. 3. It is better to draft the primary or basic pattern blocks—plain bodice, plain sleeve, plain skirt without seam allowances. When this is done, be sure to leave seam allowances while laying out the pattern on the material at the time of cutting. If you do not have much experience in cutting, and want to avoid the risk of cutting without seam allowance, you may add seam allowances to your paper pattern itself after completing the draft. 4. The following construction details and information should be recorded and marked clearly. a) Name of each piece of pattern (bodice front, bodice back, sleeve etc), b) Number of pieces to be cut with each pattern piece. (For example, for a back open dress you have to cut 1 front, 2 backs and 2 sleeves), c) If seam allowances are not included in the draft, this should be mentioned. If seam allowances are included, seam lines and cutting lines should be clearly shown, d) Length wise or straight grain line should be drawn with a red pencil as shown (<- ---->) on all pattern pieces. This line indicates that the pattern should be kept on the cloth in such a way that the line is parallel to the length of the cloth or the selvedges. It is usually drawn parallel to the centre front and centre back edges of the pattern, e) Provide matching notches or balance marks if necessary along seams to show which seams are to be joined together and where, f) Centre front and centre back line should be marked. It is advantageous to cut outward notches at centre front and centre back of pattern pieces because at the time of assembling the garment, notches on collars can be matched to notches on the neck line of garment etc. g) Fold lines should be clearly shown. Fold lines appear along centre front or centre back edges and sometimes along hems to show where the material is to be folded, h) Dart markings, pleat markings etc. should be clearly shown. sleeve. REFERENCES Practical clothing construction, Part I and II, Mary Mathews, Cosmic Press, Chennai (1986).