Analysis of cosmetics 112070804018

Prepared by: patel parth
(m.pharm sem-11)
Guided by:ms.Rajesh parmar
A.P.M.C. college of pharmacy 1

Introduction
• Word Cosmetic Is Originated From Greek
Word “kosmeticos” means adorn and
preparation.

 Defination
• It is external preparation meant for
applying on external parts of the
body i.e. nails,skin,hairs for coloring,22
covering, softening, cleaning,
Nourishing ,waving ,setting,
preservation,removal and protection.

2

Other way of defining cosmetic is
“it is item intended to be rubbed,
poured, sprinkled , introduced in to,
otherwise applied to the human body
or part thereof for cleaning,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness
or altering the appearance”.

3

Type of cosmetics

Skin
cosmetic

Other Teeth
cosmetic cosmetic

Analysis

Eye Hair
cosmetic cosmetic
Nail
lacquer
and
polish 4

Analysis of cosmetics
includes
1) Physical analysis of cosmetics
2) Microbiological analysis of
cosmetics
3) Chemical analysis of cosmetics

5

1) Physical analysis of cosmetics
• SKIN COSMETICS

Skin Cream Hand or Body Sunscreen Face Powders Special
a)Make up cream lotion cream
-Vanishing a)Hand cleanser a)Anti-acne
- Foundation b)Hand lotion b)skin tonic
b)Cold cream c)anti-ageing
c)Moisturizer d)For men
d)Night cream
e)Protective cream
f)All purpose
g)Cleansing cream

Evaluation of Skin Cosmetics :
General Sensitivity test : For Primary potential irritants Draize‟s test use. In this
test Albino rabbits are clipped and substance to
be tested is applied to ,
- Intact skin, - Abrased Skin - Lightly scarified skin
All of them are covered with a patch for 24 hours and changes are assessed.
BIS 411:1997 suggests that if there is no reaction in any of the animals, the same test
should be performed on 10 Humans volunteers applying the substances on the skin of
forearm.
As per IS, this test can be carried out on 10 lab. Animals either guinea pig
or rabbits.
Cosmetic is applied on 2 cm sq.( for better exposure, area for test is shaved). 6

1)PATCH TEST :
It has two purposes
a) Diagnostic : To discover whether the cosmetic
used has caused dermatitis.
b) Prophetic : To assess whether a new cosmetic
should be placed on market or not.

GENERAL PROCEDURE :
o 0.1 to 0.3 gm of cosmetic to be tested is applied on a piece
of cotton fabric, size 2-3 cm sq. and apply this to skin of
arms, thigh or back.
o This patch is covered with a patch of cellophane abt 5
cm sq. and sealed with adhesive plaster about 40 cm sq.
o Allow to remain on skin for 24-72 hours.
o Sites of patched are examined after 30 minutes of
removal of patch by an experienced
dermatologist.(observation can be done earlier but
before NLT 15 min)
7

Observations : No Reaction ------
And their
grade Erythema only +

Erythema with papules ++

Papilovascular +++

Ulceration or necrosis ++++

If no reaction, subjects should be observed for 3 to 5 days to
ascertain any late reaction. Its advisable to find out
whether material causes photo sensitization.

If there is reaction, further test are necessary to find out
which ingredient is responsible for reaction.
If no reaction……same reapplied to same place or fresh
patch may be applied…….its continued till,
-Either a reaction is produced under one or more patches
-Or investigator is confirmed that no reaction will occur. 8

a) Open Patch Test :
- cosmetics with higher % of potential irritants like hair dyes,
shampoos, hair tonics, patches should not be sealed.
- Performed on sensitive part of skin, bend of elbow, skin behind ears.
- Applied on 1 sq m.
- Control standard patches
- Inspection after 24 hours.
b) Prophetic Patch test :Before it, investigator should perform test
on him self to ascertain the material is not primary irritant.
- It performed on 10 humans,
- If favorable results, for full scale , 200 normal
subjects are used. Subjects are observed for a days.
After 7-10 days, reapplied on, who didn‟t show
reaction
- If no reaction……or one or two of 200…….New product can
be placed on trial sale.
BIS 4011:1982….Method for dermatological test
For cosmetics recommends that initial test should be done on
50volunteers.
- If any shows positive reaction, number of volunteers is increased 9

2) Repeated Insult Test

The prophetic patch test has certain shortcomings, to name
- Quick absorption of potential skin irritant through skin
- Rapid evaporation of volatile skin irritant from patch
- small amount of cosmetic in patch in comparison to large
amount in actual use
- Small area of skin used.
- Short exposure of skin to cosmetic than the exposure
actual in use.

So, Draize described …Repeated Insult Test
involves applying of the same concentration as is found
in finished formulation incorporated in a bland base.
Bland base is selected acc. To nature & solubility of the
test substance. 10

3) Photo patch Test
certain substances are not harmful by
themselves but they become harmful when
exposed to sunlight.. Substances that absorb light
in between 300-308 nm have potential of photo
toxicity..

- So when a substance is considered phototoxic,
this test may be performed.

- Same as standard patch test, duplicate patches
are applied and after 24 hrs one of the patches
in pair is exposed to sunlight for 30 minutes &
covered again.

11

4) Provocative Patch Test :
Test for sensitizing potential With first
exposure, generally weak sensitizing agent don‟t
sensitize a person but repeated exposure may make
a person hypersensitive. This can be indicated by
this test.

• Its performed as standard procedure, 10-15
application on alternate days on same spot of skin in
10 volunteers.

• Indian standards says in case of unknown chemicals,
test should be first performed on animals like guinea
pig or rabbits.

12

SKIN CREAM
Evaluation of Moisturizing efficiency.
1) In vitro testing or laboratory assessment:
Investigators have attempted to define the
mechanism of water binding in the stratum corneum.
Influence of temperature and humidity on the
epidermis .
They have attempted to develop instrumental
means of assessing degree of moisture in skin and
quantitating the hydration effects of moisturizers
through changes in mechanical properties of stratum
corneum.
• Extensibility measurements

a) Measurements of Tensile properties of excised
stratum corneum : Using a Tensile Strength Tester
along with samples of stratum corneum from variety
of sources.

b) Study of viscoelastic behavior of skin Hargon‟s Gas 13
Bearing Electro Dynamometer (GBE).

c)Occlusive Potential can be determined using Water
Diffusion Rate cell or chamber. The membrane
used for this purpose could be a neonatal rat
stratum corneum or an artificial membrane.

d)Gravimetric Analytical Method is used to establish
relationship between relative humidity and
stratum corneum water content. Utilizing this
technique, the water sorption/desorption
characteristics of test corneum membrane can be
determined before and after treatments

e) Thermal analytical techniques like DSC,TGA
are used to provide information on the
significance of temperature induced phase
changes occurring in stratum corneum.
14

2) In Vivo assessment
To study hydration or moisturisation of skin ;

a) Transpirometry i.e. measurement of Trans Epidermal Water
Loss(TEWL)
- Stream of air or nitrogen of known relative humidity is
introduced into a collection chamber attached to skin surface.
- Water vapors leaving skin surface and entering the collection
chamber is carried by gas to suitable detection device.
- Various techniques like Dew Point Hygrometry, Thermal
conductivity, GC etc. have been used for water detection.

b) Topographical examinations
- Scanning Electron Microscopy
- A silicon rubber impression of the skin is made by melting
polyethylene beads over the surface of the negative impression. The
positive is then metallized to prevent charging in SEM.

c) Dermatoscopy
all creams are evaluated for types of emulsion, uniformity of
color, smoothness, texture, consistency as per their intended use. 15

SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS
Post sweating SPF determined
1. 1000-4000 A Ultraviolet zone.
- 2200-3200 A Therapeutic UV Zone
i.e.Vitamin D & anti rachitic vitamin are found.
- 2500-3020 A close to rays that cause sunburn
- 2800-3100 A cause sunburn and are screen out
with sunscreen products. (UVB) so the longer
rays of 3000-3200 cause reddening of skin
or erythema, Tan producing rays.

• Sunscreen may be Preventive i.e . sunburn
prevention by shading of body surface simulatory &
therapeutic i.e. use of chemicals that screen out certain
rays of sun
16

Evaluation of Sunscreen products
1) Sun Protection Factor :: work of R.Schulze who defined a
“Light Protection Factor“ or “Protective Index” PI
SPF is defined as the ratio between the time needed to achieve
erythema on protected skin divided by the time needed to get it on
unprotected skin.
Three methods a) Human Methods
b) FDA Method
c) Animal Method
 Determination of Sweating Resistance.
- Minimum erythema Dose & SPF is determined. After applicaton
of sample, subjects are exposed to an 35 to 38 C & 70-8- % RH.
Product Category Designation (PCD)
As per FDA : Minimal SPF 2 to 4
Moderate 4 to 6
Extra 6 to 8
Maximal 8 to 15
Ultra More than 15
2) Kumler‟s Sunscreen Index.
- He proposed to compute E1%0.1 cm at 3080 A to obtain SI
17

. . SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS………………………

- This index can be used to calculate the % of a compound which
should be incorporated to screen out a certain percentage of
sunrays that cause sunburn.

X = 8 /S.I.

3) Diluted Solution Transmittance Method.(DSTM)
- Can be used for preliminary assessment of sunscreens.

4) Thin Film Transmittance Method.
- Slightly better than DSTM
- Thin film of sample is applied to quartz plate.
- Transmittance spectrum of plate is analyzed.

5) Removed Epidermis Transmittance Method.
- It shows good correspondence to SPF .
- A portion of epidermis is removed from mouse and sample is
applied.
- Then exposed to UV light and transmitted light is measured to
assess degree of protection. 18

FACE POWDERS
Face powder may be either of loose fine powder or compact .
Evaluation:
1) Fineness of Powder
-Sieving method , -Microscopic Method
-Air separation technique.
As per IS 3959-2004,Residue on 75 μ sieve should be NMT 2 % & 0n 150 μ
NMT 0.5 %.
2) Apparent Density
3) Shade & Uniformity of shade
- Comparison with standard shade kept for this purpose.
- Commonly std and sample both are placed between two glass
plates and compared Observed in natural light.
4) Odor - No physical measure for odor.
5) Pressure applied on compact powder : by penetro meter,
6) Breaking point. Cake is dropped on wooden (8-10 in) or thick rubber mat
(6 feet),
5) Matter insooluble in water : Boil 1 gm. with 200ml,filter, dry residue &
find out.
6) Moisture & volatile matter : By drying powder at 105 C to constant
weight.
7) pH of aqueous solution : By making suspension in water of 10 % or filtrate
19
may be used.

10) Pay-off: the pay-off
character, i.e. adhesion
with the puff of compact or
pressed powder should be
tested on the skin

Figure :Pay off

20
Dispersion Analyzer- Instruments

SPECIAL CREAMS
Includes a) Anti acne
b) Skin tonics
c) Anti ageing
d) Cosmetic for Men.

a) Anti Acne : Acne is varied group of diseases from teenage to cystic
acne commonly due to P. acnes which are quite susceptible to
antimicrobial agents.
Salicylic acid, sulfur, benzoyl peroxide is widely preferred.
Evaluation : Particle size of anti acne compound
greasiness
Antimicrobial efficacy.

b) Skin tonic : used as Skin healing, promotion of tissue growth,
Refreshing sensation.
Assay of active and label claimed ingredients.

c) Anti-ageing :

d) Cosmetic for Men : There is physiological differences between male
& female. Cosmetics for male includes shave preparations,
sunscreens, fairness cream, etc. 21

Lipsticks
1) Melting point:
Determination of melting point is important as it is an
indication of the limit of safe storage.
Determined by capillary tube method the capillary was filled, keep in
the capillary apparatus and firstly observed the product was slowly-
slowly melted. After sometimes was observed the product was
completely melted.
The above procedure was done in 3 times and the melting
point ratio was observed in different-different formulation.
 Ring & Ball Method:
Ring is taken & the lipstick to be tested is inserted into it. Extra
mass above & below the orifice is removed using a sharp blade leaving a
tablet. Keep in a refrigerator (6 C) for about 10 minutes after which this
ring is fastened onto a stand. A beaker containing 500 ml water at
room temperature is placed on a hot plate having a magnetic stirrer.
Steel ball is delicately placed on a lipstick tablet, the bar with
support is then slowly inserted into beaker till it submerges into it. Heat
& agitate.
One Other Method :
Whole lipstick along its stand is kept in a long flat bottom tube of
approximately 10-12 cm length & 2.5-3.0 cm. 22

Care should be taken that lipstick is in a protruded position & the
bulb of thermometer just touched the lipstick mass.
Place this set up in a one liter beaker filled with water to a
level a cm above the upper up of protruding lipstick.
2) Softening point:
it gives indication whether lipsticks will able to withstand
variation in climate or not.
3) Color Match
IS 9875 : 1990 also prescribe tests like
- Pay off Test
- Particle Size determination of undispersed pigments.
- Test for Heavy metals
IS 10284 : 1982 prescribed specification for LIPSALVES,
- Determination of Melting Range.
- Determination of consistency
- Test for Rancidity, stability, Arsenic & heavy metals.
- Stability studies are performed at Refrigerator temperature (4 C),
Room T (15-20) And high summer 30-40.
- Parameters : Bleeding, Streaking, Cratering, And blooming.
4) Solubility test:
The formulation herbal lipstick was dissolved in various solvents
to observe the solubility. 23

5) Breaking point:
Breaking point is done to determine the strength of lipstick. The
lipstick is held horizontally in a socket ½ inch away from the edge of
support. The weight is gradually increased by a specific value (10 gm)
at specific interval of 30 second and weight at which breaks is
considered as the breaking point.

6) Skin irritation test: It is carried out by applying product on the
skin for 10 min.

7) Aging stability:
The product is stored at 40˚ c and
periodical observation of oil bleed, crystallization
of wax on surface, and application characteristics
is made.

8) Perfume stability:
The formulation herbal lipstick was tested after 30 days, to
record the fragrance Some raw materials have the ability to make
fragrances adhere to the skin longer before the fragrance is
volatilized. This capability is measured using a gas chromatography

9) Oxidative stability: it is predicted by determination of peroxide value
after exposure to oxygen under given conditions.
24

10) Thixotrophy character:

It is indication of
thyrotrophic quality and is done by
using penetrometer.

A standard needle of specific
diameter is allowed to penetrate for
5 seconds under a 50 gm load at
25˚C. The depth of penetration is a
measurement of the thixotropic Figure : Microprocessor-Based
structure of lipstick. Digital Penetrometer from Koehler

11)Force of application:
It is test for comparative measurement of the force to be
applied for application. A piece of coarse brown paper can be kept
on a shadow graph balance and lipstick can be applied at 45˚
angle to cover a 1 sq. inch area until fully covered. The pressure
reading is an indication of force of application.

12) Surface anomalies:

This is studied by the surface defects, such as no formation crystals
on surfaces, no contamination by moulds, fungi etc. 25

Eye Cosmetics
a) Eye Liner & eye pencils
• Eye liner should be applied in a
thin line
• Should not form cake
• Water Resistant

b) Mascara : To accentuate the eyelashes and make
them more visible, more pronounced.
• Texture
• Good drying qualities
• shiny
c) Eye Shadows
d) False Eyelashes
26

Nail lacquers and removers
1) Non-volatile content: this can be done by taking defining
amount of lacquers and applying on plate of flat surface.
Weight of the residual film after evaporation of solvent
will indicate the non volatile content. The indian
standards (IS :9245-1994)prescribes a minimum limit of 20%
by mass.
2) Hardness : after application of the film on a flat surface
the hardness is measured by applying pressure
mechanically.
3) Water resistance: this is the measurement of the resistance
towards water permeability of the film. This is done by
applying a continuous film on a surface and immersing it
in water.
The weights before and after immersion are noted and
increase in weight is calculated higher the increases in
weight lower the water resistance.
3) Viscosity : this is also an important
character and can be measured by Figure :
Brookfield
viscometer. viscometer 27

5) Smoothness : the film is applied on surface and surface
characteristics of film studied microscopically.

6) Drying rate: this can be done by taking the product on a flat
surface and touching the product with tip of finger at short
interval of time.
Time taken for disappearance of tackiness is noted. The
Indian standards for nail lacquer (IS: 9245-2994) prescribes
maximum drying time of 6 minute.

7) Application : For evaluation of these properties nail enamel
is applied to nail & attention is
paid to the following.
flow
even ness of application
drag on brush
formation of air bubble in the film
8) Abrasive resistance
Trabe abrader
it consists of turn table carrying a coated panel on
which dual wheels of specified abrasiveness act.
when tested with apparatus, the loss of weight of
coating is in specified no of revolution is taken as measure of
resistance to abrasion 28

Shampoo
1) Foaming ability and foam stability: Cylinder shake
method was used for determining foaming ability. 50 ml of
the 1% shampoo solution was put into a 250 ml graduated
cylinder and covered the cylinder with hand and shaken
for 10 times. The total volumes of the foam contents after 1
minute shaking were recorded.
The foam volume was calculated only. Immediately after
shaking the volume of foam at 1 minute intervals for 4
minutes were recorded.

Figure : Ross-miles foam column 29

2) Viscosity: this is also an important character and can be measured
by viscometer

3) Effect on hair : this can be studied by half-head technique. In which
half of the hair is shampooed and the other half is used as control

4) Effect on skin and eyes: this can be measured by applying it on
animals

5) pH : the pH of shampoo can be measured by pH meter and it should
be between 6.0-9.0

6) Stability studies:
The thermal stability of formulations was studied by
placing in glass tubes and they were placed in a humidity
chamber at 45 C and 75% relative humidity. Their appearance
and physical stability were inspected for a period of 3 months
at interval of one month.
30

Cleansing action : it can be tested on wool yarn in grease
For this method place 5 gm of wool yarn in
grease in 200 ml of water containing 1 gm of shampoo in
a flask, shake the flask for 4 minute at rate of 50 times a
minute. Remove the solution and take out the sample.
Dry it and weigh it. The loss in weight will indicate the
amount of grease removed which is the cleansing action
of shampoo.

Fig :Hair before cleansing Fig: Hair after cleansing

31

Tooth paste &tooth powders
• Particle size : this can be determined by microscopic study of the
particles or by other means.

• Abrasiveness : the teeth are mechanically brushed with paste or
powders using tooth brush. The effect are studied by observation,
mechanical (measurement with micrometer gauge sensitive to 0.001
inch ) or other means (radioactive tracer techniques).

• The pH of the aqueous solution : the pH of dispersion of 10% of the
product in water is determined by pH meter.

• Consistency : it is important that the product, paste, should
maintain the consistency to enable the product press out
from the container study of viscosity is essential for this.
Rheology of powder is also important for proper flow of the
powders from the container.

• Volatile matters and moisture : a specific amount of product
is taken in a dish and drying is done till constant weight.
Loss of weight will indicate amount of moisture present in
product.
32

Other Cosmetics
1) Depilatories
It can be truly categorized as a cosmetic ,since it
beautifies by removing un slightly hair from certain
parts of the body.

Evaluation
a) tensile kinetic method
Stress decay caused by disulfide bond is measured
using commercial instrument such as
Tensile strength tester
An optical diameter
Electro balance
the time required to reduce the stress supported by
hair by 95% was shown to in vivo hair removal rate
in commercial products.

33

b) HPLC method
this method can distinguish between thioglcerol,thiolactic
acid thiol glycolic acid.
the S-H group is coupled to 7 choloro-4nitro benzo-2oxo-
1,diazole which result in yellow derivative permitting HPLC
detection at 464 nm.

C) Thermo-mechanical method
In this method thermo-mechanical analyzer is
used to measure the time at which ,a hair bundle under
constant stress & immersed in deplatory,begin to stretch.
the analyzer is programmed to observe the stretching &
breaking of hair bundle, attached to fiber tension probe
accessory.
TLC &GLC METHODS are to identify &
approximately estimate the amount of active ingredient
present.

34

2) Antiperspirant & Deodorant

Antiperspirant
it is therapeutic agent that actively reduce the amount of perspiration.
Evaluation
(a) Gravimetric method
sweat collection is carried out in controlled temperature
rooms at 100 2 F and about 35%RH..
sweat collection are made during two successive half an
hour period using tared absorbent pads.
A ratio sweat produced by right & left axillae is
determined in controlled condition.
the effect of antiperspirant material on the
perspiration ratio of each individual is determined
by comparing the post treatment ratio with the
subject average control ratio.

reduction in sweat rate (%) = post treatment ratio 100
average control ratio

(b) Hygrometry
In this method cup is attached to the skin & water
from the enclosed area is evaporated by stream of
dry gas.
water content of this gas is monitored & sweat rate is
calculated.
35

C o n t i n u e d . . . .Other cosmetics…….
Deodorant
It is cosmetic preparation that reduce the auxiliary
odour .
 Evaluation
In vivo & In vitro method.

- Two principle method for in vivo evaluation of deodorant
efficiency are
1)determination of the effect of treatment in skin
micro flora.
2) olfactory assessment of the effects on skin odour.

 The different technique which are used to quantify
micro flora
a)Tape stripping
b)Velvet replicate pads
c)Scrub technique
d) Pressurized spray method.
36

C o n t i n u e d . . . .Other Cosmetics…………Deodorants
Amongst method of evaluation deodorants method suggested
by fredell & Longefellow is widely used On the first day of
test, odour of both axillae is recorded.

A scale of 0 to 3 is used for recording the odour & direct
sniffing is used for judging the odour.

The product is applied to the one axillae & nothing is
applied to the control.

After 6 hour both axillae is again sniffed &the odour
is recorded.

The test may be repeated on the successive day .
A pretest conditioning period is also recommended
for the success of test ,a definite characteristic odour
Is imperative.
37

Shaving preparations
SHAVING PREPARATION are product employed by the men to help in
shaving.

Shaving preparation divided in to two group.
A) Preparation used before shaving.
B) Preparation used after shaving
 Evaluation
1. spreadability
2. wetting
3. viscosity
4. foam texture
5. pH
6. compatibility & stability with perfume
7. effect on life of razor blade & reaction with the internal surface of
collapsible tube both metallic & plastic.
8. quality of the water

A) Evaluation for both Lather & Brushless shaving cream
To comply with Indian standard, specification for shaving cream
as per drugs and cosmetic Act,1940 & rules 1945,shedule „S‟,
It is suggested that IS 9740:1981& its second amendment
of October 1998 should be referred.
1. consistency & texture
2. homogeneity
3. conformity of raw material
4. stability 38
5. effect on container

6. total fatty substance
7. water content
8. lathering power
9. free caustic alkali
 Evaluation of aerosol shaving cream
1. soap concentration
2. type of fatty acid
3. concentration of free fatty acid
4. type of polyols & its concentration
5. type of propellant & its concentration
6. pH
7. viscosity , density & stability of product.

After shave Lotion
After shave lotion are non emulsified and mildly alcoholic solution.
Two type
a) alcoholic containg 5-70% alcohol
b) non alcoholic
Evaluation
1. Important test is alcohol content
2. stability of smell
3. cloud temperature

39

2) Microbiological analysis of cosmetics
• Cosmetics should be free from micro-organisms and
consumer use. The detection and elimination of microbial
contamination of cosmetics is very important to maximize
shelf life.
• Ensure product quality, consistency and performance and
to meet federal regulations.

 Sample preparation for microbiological analysis
• For liquid: take 1 ml of liquid and diluted with 9 ml of
modified letheen broth(MLB) in screw-cap test tube.

• Solid and powders: weigh 1 gm of sample in to screw-cap
test tube containing 1 ml sterile tween 80. disperse product
in tween 80 with sterile spatula. Add 8 ml sterile MLB and
mix thoroughly.

• Wax / fatty products (lipsticks): weigh 10 gm of sample
in to sterile tween 20. disperse with a sterile spatula to
form a paste. Add 78 ml sterile MLB and mix thoroughly.
40

Method for microbiological analysis:
a) Pour-plate technique:
The sample should be diluted successively with
sterile water. The agar medium is maintained in
molten state at 45˚c. 1 ml of diluted sample is added to
sterile petri dish to which is then poured 9 ml of sterile,
cool agar medium. The contents are thoroughly mixed
and allowed to solidify. The dish is incubated at
suitable temperature and conditions. After few days,
different kinds of microbe grow as separate colonies.

41

b) spread plate technique

An aliquot of the diluted sample is placed an to the
agar surface and is spread uniformly with a sterile
bent rod. Incubate it at suitable temperature and
condition. After few days, different kinds of microbes
grow as separate colonies.

42

c) Streak Plate Method
In this technique, the sample
is appropriately diluted and
a small aliquot transferred
to an agar plate.
The bacteria are then
distributed evenly over the
surface by a special
streaking technique.
After colonies are grown,
they are counted and the
number of bacteria in the
original sample calculated.

44

d) membrane filtration method
A known amount of pretreated
material or its dilution is passed trough
membrane filter assembly. Wash it 3
successive times each of 100 ml of
buffered Nacl-peptone solution. Transfer
the membrane on the surface of solid
agar medium in a sterile Petri dish. The
dish is incubated at suitable temperature
and conditions.
After few days different kinds of
microbe grow as separate colonies.
The Indian standards (is:11377-1985)
prescribes that bacterial count of a
cosmetics should not exceed 1000
microorganism per 1 gm of cosmetic and
there should not any pathogens.

45

3) Chemical analysis of cosmetics

Figure :Cosmetic analysis. Features and most suitable
46
properties of the analytical methods.

• Chemical analysis of cosmetics is very
important to ensure that only permitted ingredient
are added to the product, information on the label
is correct or not, and to help in forensic
investigation.

General methods
i. Determination of methanol in relation to ethanol
or 2-propanol by gas chromatography.
ii. Determination of dichloromethane and 1,1,1
trichloroethane by gas chromatography.
iii. Determination of chlorobutanol by gas
chromatography.
iv. Determination of hexachlorophene by gas
chromatography.
v. Determination of water by gas chromatography.
vi. Determination of propylene glycol by gas
chromatography.

47

Deodorants and antiperspirants
i. Aluminium and zinc in deodorants by
gravimetric method or by flame
atomic absorption spectroscopy.
ii. Zirconium in anti perspirants by
colorimetric method or by flame
atomic absorption spectrometry.
iii. Boric acid in deodorants and anti
perspirants by ion-exchange method.
iv. Chlorides and sulfates in deodorants by
gravimetric method.
v. Methenamine and urea in deodorants
by titrimetric method.
48

Hair preparation
i. Quinine in shampoo and in hair lotion
by HPLC
ii. oxalic acid and alkaline salt in hair-
care product by filtration.
iii. Free sodium and potassium hydroxide
in hair straightener by filtration.
iv. Mercapto acetic acid in hair-waving
and in hair-straightening by
iodometric titration or gas
chromatography.
v. Selenium disulphide as selenium in
anti-dandruff shampoos by atomic
absorption spectrometry.
49

Analytical Methods for Hair Dyes
• According to how long-lasting they are
three types
a. temporary,
b. semi-permanent,
c. permanent hair colours

 Methods use for quantitative and semi
quantitative determination of hair dyes
are
i. one- or two-dimensional thin-layer
chromatography,
ii. gravimetrically,
iii. colorimetrically
iv. Thin-layer chromatography (TLC),
v. gas chromatography (GC),
vi. liquid chromatography (LC) 50

Tooth pastes
i. Chloroform and chlorates of alkali
metals in tooth paste by gas
chromatography.
ii. Total fluorine in dental creams by gas
chromatography.
Creams and pastes
i. Nitrite creams and pastes by
colorimetric method.

Vanishing creams
i. Water by karl-fiesher titration
ii. Ash
iii. Chloroform soluble material by GC
51

Sun screen lotion
• Photo stability Testing
The Most Commonly Used Components In The Photo stability Tests
Irradiation source Mercury lamp, fluorescent lamp, metal
halide lamp, xenon arc
Sample support Quartz cuvette, glass plate, Teflon
membrane, TransporeTM tape,
skin(reconstructed or excised), in vivo
human volunteer s skin

Type of sample Solution, liquid film, semisolid thin layer

Analytical technique Absorption spectroscopy, transmission
spectroscopy with integrating
sphere, liquid chromatography, gas
chromatography, supercritical fluid
chromatography
52

Analytical Methods Colouring Agents in
Decorative and
other Cosmetics

• Decorative cosmetics are principally used to
beautify.
• The different types of decorative cosmetics
include foundations, lipsticks, glosses,
mascaras, nail lacquers and powders.

53

Figure: General approach to the preparative separation of dyes by
54
high-speed countercurrent chromatography

Determination of colouring agents
in cosmetic products
• Thin-layer chromatography
• Liquid chromatography
• Spectrophotometry
• Other methods
dyes in lipstick using micellar
electrokinetic capillary chromatography
(MEKC) with diode array UV detection

55

Analytical Methods
Preservatives in Cosmetics.
• preservatives belonging to different chemical
classes therefore, multicomponent analysis
methods are required ,like
1. ion-pair and reversed-phase LC with UV/Vis
detection,
2. Thin layer chromatography (TLC)
3. capillary electrophoresis (CE)
4. capillary zone electrophoresis (CZE)
5. gas chromatography (GC) with flame
ionization detector (FID), electron capture
detector (ECD) or mass spectrometry (MS)
detector used for preservative determination
56

Analysis of perfumes
• ultra violet/visible spectrometry (UV/VIS),
• infrared spectrometry (IR)
• nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR),
• gas chromatography (GC), both by injection or in
headspace (HS) mode
• liquid chromatography (LC) and
thin-layer chromatography (TLC)
have also been applied for quantitative
and/or qualitative purposes in perfume
analysis,
• GC-MS
• LC-UV/VIS
• GC-FID
• LC-FL (TLC with fluorimetric)
• TLC with fluorescence densitometry (FD)
Fig: Headspace micro-
57
extraction

conclusion
• A variety of substances are used in the
manufacturing of cosmetics so, finished
cosmetics, when used on human body, have
potential for several type of adverse
reaction. The adverse effect include skin
irritation and allergy sensitization ,contact
urticaria ,photo toxicity and photo allergy.

• With growing consumers awareness and
enforcement of consumer protection act, it
is necessary for cosmetic manufacturers to
assess quality, stability and potential of
adverse effect of his product.

58

References:
1. Text book of “Cosmetics Formulation,
manufacturing & Quality control”, by P. P.
Sharma 4th edition, Vandana Publications Pvt.
ltd.
2. “Cosmetic Technology”, by Sanju Nanda, Arun
Nanda,RoopK.Khar1stEdition,BirlaPublications
3. “Cosmetics”, by Sagarin,Volume 1 & 3

59

Analysis of cosmetics 112070804018

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