1. HAIR TONICS AND
CONDITIONERS….

2. CONTENTS :-
Introduction ( hair tonics)
Material products
Dandruff
Greasy hair & scalp
Hair loss
Formulation of medicated hair tonics
Introduction (hair conditioners)
Purpose
Types of conditioners
Formulations.

4. INTRODUCTION.
The term “hair tonic” has been used
for some hair preparations because the term is used in
therapeutics. Hair tonic is one kind of hair repairing tonic
and re-texturing the hair.
There are two distinct types of products :-
1. Products those deals with specific problems of the
hair. E.g., greasy hair, dandruff.
2. Those products which are intended for improving,
restoring, & maintaining the condition of the hair.

5. Products
Medicated P. Conditioners

6.  Medicated products :-
The purpose of this products is to cure, to reduce, to
restrain & some abnormality in the function of scalp.
In the past use was often made of irritant, keratolytic,
rubifacient compds.
The recent trend is that the treatment should rather
bring about a return to a normal state & promote
balance.
Medicated products are mainly deal with dandruff,
seborrhea & hair loss.

7.  DANDRUFF
It is an excessive scaling of scalp.
It generally occurs in winter and ease off in summer.
Dandruff has been observed that proliferation of
micro-organism is associate with dandruff.
The micro-organism are mostly found is Pityrosporum
Ovale, a sporulating yeast.

8. The scalp is lush environment for the growth of micro-
organism & high scaling condition.
The compounds are added to anti-dandruff lotion
mostly are:-
1. anti- microbial.
2. keratolytic or exfoliative.
As germicides, QAC (such as benzalkonium
cetyltrimethyl ammonium & cetylpyridinium salts),
chlorophenols, PVP iodine complexes, oxyquinoline
&5,7-Dichloro-8-hydroxyquinoline in particular have
been used.

9. The compds which have gained the dominant position
because of their efficacy are the derivatives of 2-
pyridine-thiol-N-oxide.
As keratolytic ingredients, colloidal Sulphur, resorcinol,
salicylic acid, & selenium di-sulphide have been used.
Coal tar is also known to provide good response.
Anti dandruff products can be simple solution of an
anti microbial agent in a aqueous-alcoholic medium or
a setting rinse composition.

10. FORMULATION :-
Anti-dandruff lotion :-
Ingredients % Uses
Bis (2-pyridyl-1-oxide)
disulphide
0.15 Anti-bacterial agent
Camphor 0.10 Anti-dandruff agent
Menthol 0.05 Hair growth property
Ethanol or isopropanol 50.00 Cooling effect
Water Upto
100ml
solvent

11. FORMULATION :-
Clear Anti-dandruff rinse :-
Ingredients % Uses
Stearyl di-methyl benzyl
ammonium chloride
5.0 Germicide & anti-
microbial agent
Cetyltrimethyl ammonium
chloride
0.35 as a conditioning agent &
antiseptic
Tallow amido propylamine
oxide
3.00 Gelling agent
Propylene glycol 3.00 Humectant
Hydroxypropylmethyl
cellulose
0.6 As a thickening agent
Water Upto
100ml
solvent

12.  Greasy hair and scalp :-
Seborrhea is an excessive secretion from the
sebaceous glands.
The sebum is also oxidized by aerial oxidation & by the
action of micro-organism present on the scalp.
Greasy hair form bunches & catch dust giving
unaesthetic look.
This may induce a loss of hair, its consequences on the
hair became greasy very quickly after shampooing.
To reduce sebum uptake is to apply an oil repellant
treatment i.e., to deposit lipophobic ingredients.

13. Some hydro-phobic & lipo-phobic per-fluorinated
compds such as (CF3(CF2)x(CH2)y Z.
These substances are used in 70:20 aqueous alcoholic
lotions at concentrations between 0.05 & 0.2%
commercial compounds are fluorad(3 M Co) & Zonad
(du point).
The following formulation has claimed to retard oil
uptake by 85%.
Ingredients % Uses
Ethanol 30.0 Cooling agent
Polyoxyethylene
polymethylsiloxane
0.1 Thickening agent
Per-flurononanoic acid 0.1 Reducing sebum
Water Up to
100ml
Solvent
Perfume 0.1

14. A finely divided starches & silica's to keep hair looking
clean for longer periods.
To reduce the secretion or excretion of serum more
selective compounds are added thio-ether or
sulphoxide derivatives of cysteine, cyst-amine,
glutathione, pyridoxine & hydroxylated amino acid.
Some salts such as 2-benzyl-thio ethylamine, act on
lipid synthesis process.
For anti-oxidant based lotion, alkyl gallates, t-butyl
hydroxyanisole to prevent per oxidative
transformation of sebum on hair & scalp.

15.  Hair loss
Hair loss may be more or less profuse, more or less
localized, it may be congenital or acquired.
It may be an acute state or be a transient event
resulting from an effective disturbance, a trauma, an
infectious disease, the effect of some medicines.
Five methods by which hair growth might be increased.

16. 1. Increase of the anagen growth of hair.
2. production of new follicles or more multiple follicles.
3. lengthening of the anagen stage or shortening of
talogen stage.
4. prevention or delay of talogen.
5. initiation of anagen in follicles in the talogen state.
 Hair loss has long been held to linked
to poor irrigation of the scalp & a
number of preparations
recommended as ‘anti-loss’.
 Now, it appears that blood
circulation does not play a role & it
may be preferable to reduce the flow
rate.

17. o Formulation of medicated hair
tonic :-
Nutrients.
Regulating factors.
Antiseptics.
Soothing ingredients.

18.  Stimulatingagents:-
Most of the compounds are drawn from
nature, being irritant agent which supposedly have
stimulating effects on the growth of hair. The compounds
mostly used have been:-
Cantharides tinctures
Capsicum tinctures.
Jaborandi tinctures with pilocarpine as active.
And miscellaneous, arnica, & red quinquina tinctures,
urginea maritina, rhubarb ext, camphor, β-napthol,
turpentine oil.

19. Ester & salts of nicotinic acid, notably ethyl & tetra
hydro- furfuryl ester and pyridoxine nicotinate, have
also been claimed as rubifacient & penetrating agents.
Brassidic acid & 1-citronellol have been claimed as
acanthogens.
Sulphur derivatives :-
Magnesium cysteinate
4-thiozolidine carboxylic acid
S-aralkyl & S-carboxymethyl cysteinate.

20. Tars :-
Vegetable tars resulting from the carbonization of
specific woods (pine tar oil, cade, cedar & birch oils)
have proved in interest in seborrhea, dandruff & dry
scalp.
Antiseptic & astringent, they are complex mixture of
polyphenol, high molecular wt. acid or alcohols, waxes ,
ketones ,etc.

21.  Vitamins :-
Group B vitamins (B1, B2, B6 & B12 ), vitamins A & F
extracts of wheat germ which contain a cocktail of
vitamins.
They so called vit F composed of essential unsaturated
fatty acid, biotin, & vitaminic factors such as p-amino-
benzoic acid, pantothenic acid & the related alcohol
panthenol are widely used.
The use of amniotic liquid & placenta extract also
trends to provide nutrients & stimulating elements
that are necessary to keratinization.

22.  Miscellaneous materials:-
Sericine (silk glue) is a complex serine rich protein that
has noted to provide an interesting tonic & anti-
seborrheic effect.
For hair growth promoter are egg yolk, ginseng, snake
serum, ferulic acid, cholic acid, 4-iodo-3,5-dimethyl-2-
cyclohexylphenol, steroids, hydroperoxides & an
organic silicon compds- chloromethyl silatrane.
Ginseng roots

23.  Formulation :-
Cinchona lotion :-
Ingredients % Uses
Tincture of
cinchona
2.0 Stimulating agent
Birch tar oil 0.3 Emollient
Glycerol 6.0 Humectant
Resorcinol 0.3 Antiseptic agent
Jamaica rum 15.0 Hair growth promoter
Ethanol 50.0 Cooling agent
Water Up to
100ml
Solvent
Perfume & dye 2-3 drops

24. vitamin lotion :-
Ingredients % Uses
Vit E nicotinic acid ester 0.1 Photo protection
Isopropyl myristate 3.0 Lubricant
1-menthol 1.0 Aroma
Calcium pantothenate
(B5)
0.05 Conditioning agent
pyridoxine
chlorhydrate(B6)
0.05 Stimulates hair growth
Irgasan DP 300 0.2 Anti bacterial agent
Ethanol 95% 80.0 Cooling agent
Perfume 2-3 drops
Water Up to 100ml

25. HAIR CONDITIONER…

26. INTRODUCTION
Hair conditioners are viscous liquid
that is applied to the hair & are usually used after
washing the hair with shampoo.
It is designed to restore hair to its natural state.
It has the ability to repair damage hair by providing
shiny look to the hair fibers.
Hair conditioner restores the texture & appearance of
the rough & harsh hair.

27. Hair conditioner are used to render the hair shiny, easy
to comb & free from dryness.
 Purpose of conditioners :-
Restoring moisture is one of the main important
purpose.
Hair should be manageable after wash.
Its vital role is to be smoothing the hair follicles.
Should maintain the pH of the hair .

28. Functions of
hair
conditioners.
Non-
irritant
Smooth &
soften the
hair
texture
Protective
sheath
Tighten
the cuticle
scales
Provide
bounce

29. TYPES OF CONDITIONERS
Pack
conditioners
Leave in
conditioners
Ordinary
conditioners

30. 1. PACK CONDITIONERS
It is heavy and thick.
A high content of surfactant it is able to bind the hair
structure & glue the hair surface scale together & tend
to form thicker layer on the hair surface.
These are usually applied to the hair for a longer time.

31. 2. Leave in conditioners
They are thinner & have different surfactants.
It is lighter, less viscous mixture & provides a
significantly thinner layer on the hair.
This is designed to be used in a similar way to hair oil
preventing tangling of hair & keeping it smooth.

32. 3. Ordinary conditioners.
It combines some aspects of both packs & leave in
ones.
These are generally applied after the use of shampoo.
Further, it can be characterized into 3 main type :-
1. Moisturizer
2. Re-constructers
3. Detangles

33. 1. Moisturizers
These are organic solvent concentrated with
humectant.
Humectant is to retain the moisture into the hair.
This conditioners may not contain protein.
2. Re-constructers
It contains proteins for hydrolization.
Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular
weight.
This protein penetrates the hair shaft & gives a shiny
hair.

34. 3. Detanglers
These are acidifiers & have low pH.
The function is to close the cuticle of the hair, which
cause tangles.
The protection or shield mechanism is done by
surfactant & polymers.

35. o INGREDIENTS
1. SURFACTANTS :-
• There is a use of cationic surfactant like
Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.
• Longer chain alkyl compds are the best conditioning
properties.
• In small amounts, quaternary ammonium derivatives
improve manageability, prevent fly away by
neutralization negative charges in the scalp.
• A wide variety of others cationic surfactants have been
proposed & introduced into conditioners.

36. 2. Partially or totally hydrolyzed proteins :-
• They are mainly used to protect, enrich or repair hair
fibers.
• They are hydrolysates of collagen, keratin ichthyocolla
& milk casein.
• A cream rinse formulation containing 5% hydrolyzed
animal protein has been shown to repair 50% of split
ends verses 25% for the same rinse without protein.
• combine elastin & collagen hydrolysates have been
claimed to impart volume & softness to hair.

37. 3. Oily materials :-
 It is used to improve hair condition.
 Oily material have been used to supply lubrication &
luster.
 They help to reduce fiber friction & the abrasive effects
of handling & they improve the condition of hair.
 Silicon oil are often used.
 Lanolin derivatives are highly praised & used for
emollient qualities:- hydroxylated & acetylated lanolin
& lanolin ester, add luster & a pleasant feel.

38. 4. Glossers :-
 They are light reflecting chemicals which bind to the
hair surface.
 Usually polymers, silicones. E.g., Dimethicone or
cyclomethicone.
5. Sun screening agent :-
 It is added for the protection against protein
degradation & color loss.
 Benzophenone-4 ethylhexyl methoxy- cinnamate are
the two agents used in hair products.
 The common sunscreen used on skin are rarely used
for hair products due to their texture & weight effect.

39. 6. Humectant :-
 A variety of humectant are used are polyols, sod.
Pyrrolidone carboxylate are used.
 Others are glycerin, P.G.
 Natural humectant – jojoba oil
7. Thickeners :-
 Cellulose derivatives are used as thickener agent .
 Carbomers are rarely encountered because of their
incompatibility with most cations.
 Eg. Sodium chloride.

40. 8. Bodying agent :-
 For shampoo & conditioners, to be more effective
usually by using quite high levels of fatty alcohols along
with waxy esters.
 By incorporating this agent, it gives improvement in
wet hair condition, as it becomes soft & easy to comb
without breaking hair.
9. Perfumes :-
 It requires low level of perfume.
 Conditioners are fairly easy to perfume, but the
stability of the perfume in the often quite strongly
acidic environment of hair conditioners must be check.

41.  Manufacturing process

42.  Formulation :-
Thick creamy hair conditioners :-
Ingredients % Uses
Glycerol stearate 5.0 Conditioning agent
Cetyl alcohol 3.0 Helps the conditioner to make creamy.
Lanolin quaternary 5.0 Emulsifier
Synthetic beeswax 2.0 Viscosity modifier
PEG 75 3.5 Surfactant
P.G 2.5 Humectant
Sesame oil 1.5 Promotes hair growth
Stearic acid 1.5 It makes product thick
Lecithin 1.0 Moisturizing agent
Hydroxypropyl cellulose 7.5 Excellent film former
M.P & P.P 0.2 Preservatives
Demineralized water Up to 100 ml solvent

43. Protein conditioner :-
Ingredients % Uses
Stearyl-amido-propyl-di-
methylamine
1.5 Provides mild cleansing
Cetyl alcohol 2.0 Viscosity modifier
Stearyl stearate 1.0 Emulsion stabilizer
Lactic acid 0.7 smooth the hair & making it
more manageable.
Sodium chloride 0.5 Thickener agent
Hydrolyzed animal protein 1.5 strengthens and
moisturizes hair
M.P & P.P 0.2 Preservatives
2-bromo-2-nitro-1,3-
propanediol
0.05 an effective preservative
agent
Perfume & dye 2-3 drops
Water Up to 100 ml solvent

44. Dissolve
NaCl2 in
water
Add remaining
ing. Except
dye &
perfume
Heat up to
70°to 75°C
Stir & add
perfume, dye
at 45°c
Then fill at
30° C.
 Manufacturing process

45. Oil based conditioners :-
Ingredients % Uses
Acetylated lanolin 3.5 Emollient
GMS 13.5 Self emulsifier
Spermaceti 1.5 Emollient
Amerchol L-101 9.0 Preservatives
Mineral oil 8.5 Emollient
Glycerol 4.5 Humectant
Water Up to 100ml Solvent
Preservatives &
perfume
Q.S

46.  Manufacturing process
Melt the oils
at 85°C
Dissolve water
soluble
materials in
water
Mix the 2
phases
Cool slowly
while mixing
Fill the
container

47. o Hairthickeners :-
Hair thickeners are designed to give a temporary
appearance of thicker.
These preparation are usually oil in water base emulsion.
These combine synthetic or natural polymers used in
hair sprays or setting lotion.
Cationic polymers are used to deposit a stiffening film
coating which thickens the hair.

48.  Formulation :-
Ingredients % Uses
A) Deionized water 44.00 Solvent
M.P 0.20 Preservatives
Carbopol 940 1.00 Gelling agent
T.E.A 2.00 Emulsifier
B) Deionized water 25.20 Solvent
Merquat 550 5.00 Anionic surfactant
Ucon HB 660 8.00 Lubricant
P.P 0.10 Preservatives
PVP K90 1.50 Film former
Titanium dioxide 0.50 Opacifier
Carbowax 6000 7.00 Humectant
Polyethoxylated lanolin
alcohol
3.00 Emollient
C) Dowicil 200 2.00 Preservatives
D) Perfume 0.50

49.  Manufacturing process
Sprinkle
carbopol
into rapidly
agitated
water
Heat at 70°
C and add
T.E.A
Combine
all ing. Of
phase B &
heat till
70°C
Add B to A
& vacuum
mix until
25°C
add C
and D

50.  HAIR RINSES :-
In early days women use vinegar & lemon juice to
remove the ‘lime soap’ scum from the hair.
In addition to dissociation of calcium salt, acidic rinsing
brings the pH of hair nearer to iso-electric point &
helps to maintain its integrity, hydroxyacids have
widely used in this respect.
Modern rinses comes in cationic surfactants like
stearyl-di-methyl-benzyl-ammonium chloride,
combined fatty alcohols, is the best known compd is
triton X-400 (containing 20% of stearyl-di-methyl-
benzyl ammonium chloride & 5% stearyl alcohol.)

51.  Formulation :-
Ingredients % Uses
Triton X-400 12.5 Hair conditioning agent
Octyl phenoxyethanol 1.00 Acts as preservatives
Perfume & dye 2-3 drops For aesthetic appearance
Water Up to 100
ml
solvent

52.  Manufacturing process
Mix OPF & warmed triton x-400
in water
Heat the water at 70°C & add to
the paste with thorough stirring.
Then cool to 50°C & add
perfume & dye.

53.  Hair Rinse Conditioners :-
Ingredients % Uses
A) Arlacel 165 4.0 Self- emulsifier
Emcol E 607S 2.5 Cationic surfactant
Stearyl alcohol 2.0 Emulsion stabilizer
PEG-30 lanolin ether 2.5 As plasticizer
2-ethyl hexyloxy
stearate
0.5 As sun screening agent
P.P 0.1 Preservatives
B) Demineralized water Up to
100ml
Solvent
M.P 0.15 Preservatives
Glucose glutamate 0.5 Humectant
C) perfume, color 2-3 drops

54.  Manufacturing process
Heat
phase A &
B at 75-
80°c
Slowly add A
to B by using
high speed
mechanical
agitation for
approx.. 15
min
Begin to
cool &
continue
agitation.
Add
perfume
& color at
40-45°C.
Continue
mixing till
temp 35-
40°C &
then fill

55. FAQ’S:-
Formulation of medicated hair tonic. (8m)
Note on- conditioning agents. (8m)
Comment on –hair conditioner (8m)
Write a note on medicated hair tonic. (8m)

56. Book reference :-
Harrys cosmeticology by J.B.Wilkinson &
R.J.Moore. Pg. no. –498-513
Cosmetics-formulations, manufacturing &
quality control by P.P.Sharma- pg.no.- 329-336