2. CONTENT –
1. Introduction
2. Definition Of Moisture Management
3. Role Of Moisture Management in textile
4. Function Of Moisture Management
5. Process Involved In Transmission Of Moisture From
The Fabric
6. Mechanism Of Moisture Management
7. Different Concepts Of Moisture Management
8. Different types of Moisture management fabric
9. Tests are used to measure the moisture management of
the fabric
10.Moisture management in fire fighters clothing
11.Moisture management property of different fibres and
their blends
12.Application Of Moisture Management In Different
Fields
13.Conclusion
14.Review of literature
15.References
3. INTRODUCTION
The moisture and sweat absorbing, and quick dissipating properties
of the fabric ensure that the fabric user feels comfortable wearing
garments made from it.
The moisture managed fabric is ideal for usage in volatile
and hazardous environments as it provides optimum static control
against incendiary spark, protecting from electronic equipment
damage and fire.
The Indian atmosphere is generally very humid. In these conditions,
our moisture managed fabric with their moisture absorbent properties
will ensure that the person wearing garments made of such fabrics
is very comfortable and feels very near to nature.
4. The market for moisture management fabrics is set to grow as
apparel manufacturers shift their attention to the high-performance
end of the sector and consumers place increasing importance on the
performance of garments, according to the latest issue of performance
apparel markets.
Moisture management is one of the key performance criteria in
today’s apparel industry.
Contd…
5. The ability of a fabric to transport liquids is called Moisture
Management.
( Easter E.,2006)
Definition Of Moisture Management
“The ability of a garment to transport moisture away from the
skin to the garment’s outer surface.”
(Joyce, A. (2005)
Fabric liquid moisture transport properties in multidimensions,
called Moisture Management properties, significantly influence
human perceptions of moisture sensations.
(Hu J.et.al, 2005)
The Moisture Management is defined as the “controlled
movement” of water vapour and liquid water (perspiration) from
the surface of the skin to the atmosphere through the fabric.
6. Moisture management property is the important aspect of any
fabric for apparel, which decides the clothing comfort.
RELATION OF MOISTURE MANAGEMENT IN
TEXTILES WITH BODY COMFORT
The process of moisture transport through clothing under transient
humidity conditions is an important factor which influences the
dynamic comfort of the wearer in practical use.
7. Barker (2002) stated that comfort is not only a
function of the physical properties of materials
and clothing variables, but also must be
interpreted within the entire context of human
physiological and psychological responses.
Personal expectation or stored modifiers that
sort out or influence our judgment about
comfort based on personal experiences must be
also considered.
Holcombe (1986) stated that comfort as
wellbeing and fundamental to that wellbeing is
the maintenance of the temperature of our vital
organs within a few degrees of 37oC for them to
function properly, otherwise the metabolic
system can be extensively disrupted and
sustained abnormal temperature will lead to
death. Temperature control is achieved by
changing skin temperature through changes to
blood flow and by evaporation of water at the
skin surface.
8. The term comfort is defined as "the absence of
unpleasantness or discomfort" or "a neutral state compared to
the more active state of pleasure".
There is general agreement that the movement of heat and
water vapour through a garment are probably the most
important factors in clothing comfort.
1. Psychological
Comfort
3. Thermal Comfort
2. Tactile Comfort
The clothing comfort can be
segregated further into three
groups.
By:Higgins and Anand (2003)
9. The clothing comfort can also be segregated
further into two groups.
Sensorial comfort
Non-sensorial
comfort.
37° C
By:Higgins and Anand (2003)
10. FUNCTION OF MOISTURE MANGEMENT
Regulation of body temperature – when the human
body core temperature exceeds 37 oC, sweat is
produced. Transporting the sweat away from the
skin and evaporating it to the atmosphere, reduces
body temperature.
Control of cloth weight increase – absorbing the
moist generated by the body increases cloth weight
, making it uncomfortable and with a negative
effect on performance. Moisture management
avoids this effect.
Moisture
management
has the
following
functions:
Reducing Skin Damage
By: Andersson ,1999
11. According To Ishtiaque (2001) the
predominant requirements of most active
sportswear are:
• PROTECTION : from wind and adverse weather
• INSULATION : protection from cold
•VAPOUR PERMEABILITY: to ensure that body
vapour passes outward through all layers of the
clothing system
• STRETCH: to provide the freedom of movement
necessary in sports
Sportswear is one of the 12 main application
areas defined by Techtextile. (Anand &
Horrocks 2000).
12. Processes Involved In Moisture Transmission
Through Textiles
Water Vapour Transmission
Water vapour can pass through textile
layers by the following mechanisms:
Diffusion of the water vapour through
the layers.
Absorption, transmission and desorption
of the water vapour by the fibres.
Adsorption and migration of the water
vapour along the fibre surface.
Transmission of water vapour by forced
convection.
Moisture may transfer through textile materials in vapour and in
liquid form.
Liquid Water Transmission
Liquid water can pass through textile
layers by the following mechanisms:
Wetting
Wicking
By:Brojeswari Das, 2007
13. Water vapour can diffuse through a textile structure in two
ways: Water Vapour
DIFFUSION
yarns and along the fibre
itself
simple diffusion through the
air spaces between the fibres
Factors
affect
diffusion
process-
1.
Fibre
volume
fraction
2.
Fibre cross
section
3.
Fabric
thickness
4.
Air
permeability
By:Brojeswari Das, 2007
14. The Sorption-Desorption Process
Sorption-desorption is an important process to maintain the
microclimate during transient conditions.
It is defined by two phenomenon.
Absorption
Adsorption
Factors affect Sorption-Desorption Process:
Fibre Regain
Humidity Of Atmosphere
Effect of Heat
By:Brojeswari Das, 2007
15. Yoe .E,barker K. (2005)Dynamic
Convection Process
Convection is a mode of moisture transfer that takes place while air
is flowing over a moisture layer. The mass transfer in this process is
controlled by the difference in moisture concentration between the
surrounding atmosphere and the moisture source.
Evaporation and condensation also have a noteworthy effect on
moisture transmission.
Evaporation and condensation depend on the temperature and
moisture distribution in porous textiles at the time of moisture
transfer .
Yoe .E,barker K. (2005)
16. CONDUCTION
• Heat transferred from one
molecule to another (direct
contact)
• Conductors transfer heat
well.
• Insulators do not transfer
heat well.
17. • Transfer of heat in
the form of an
invisible wave
• Heat radiated to a
nearby structure can
ignite it.
• Radiated heat
passing through a
window can ignite an
object.
RADIATION
18. Liquid Water Transmission
Liquid transfer through a porous structure
involves two sequential processes-
1.Wetting
Factors affect wetting-
Contact angle between the solid and
liquid
Surface tension between solid and liquid
Temperature of liquid
Liquid 'density and viscosity, surface
tension
Chemical nature of surface
Holmer .P.(2007).
19. Wicking is the most effective process to maintain a feel of
comfort. In the case of clothing with high wicking properties,
moisture coming from the skin is spread throughout the fabric
offering a dry feeling and the spreading of the liquid enables
moisture to evaporate easily.
Factors affect wicking process-
Capillary pressure
Cross sectional shape of fibre
Tortuosity of the pores
Twist of yarn
Texture of yarn
2.Wicking.
Pores
Holmer .P.(2007).
20. How The Moisture Management
Fabric Works
By:Fan, J. and Cheng, 2005).
21. DIFFERENT CONCEPTS OF MOISTURE MANAGEMENT:
A. COMBINATIONS OF HYDROPHOBIC AND OUTER
HYDROPHILIC LAYERS. EX.DRYLEX
B. MICRO FIBRES- Micro fibres, by virtue of their extreme fineness, form
especially small gaps and have a big surface area. This leads to high
capillary effect for the transportation of humidity, and rapid evaporation.
C. SPECIAL FIBRES-Special fibres are designed to increase the capillary
force and the humidity transportation, by means of special profiles. The
larger surface area of these fibres also serves to promote evaporation.
D. WICKING WINDOWS
By:Brojeswari Das, 2007
22. A. COMBINATIONS OF HYDROPHOBIC AND OUTER HYDROPHILIC LAYERS
Water-Proof Fabric
OUTER
INNER
Breathable Fabric
water vapour
Liquid water
AIR
water drop
Hydrophilic
Cotton (attractive
surface)
AIR
water drop
Hydrophobic
Olefin (repulsive surface)
23. DRI-LEX®
• Dri-Lex fabric is developed by Faytex Corp.
• Dri-Lex is made from hydrophobic polyester and hydrophilic nylon.
• This combination creates a push-pull effect that pulls perspiration off the
skin and deploys it to the outer layer to rapidly dry.
• It is breathable and quick-drying fabric.
• Used in hats, shoes, socks, and polo shirts.
Combination fabric
www.defense-update.com/products/m/moisture_management_fabric.htm
24. • Microfibres refers to synthetic fibers that measure less than
1 dpf and more than 0.3 dpf.
• Due to extreme fineness, form especially small gaps and gives
a big surface area.
• This leads to the fabric have high capillary effect for the
transportation of humidity, and rapid evaporation.
B. MICRO FIBRE
www.ptec.com.hk/medical/moisture_mgmt_fabric.
25. • There are four types of synthetic microfibers are
produced which include
Acrylic
Nylon
Polyester
Rayon
• Micro-fibres can be :
Blended with conventional denier man-
made fibre
blended with natural fibres (cotton, wool, silk)
27. -Natural fibers such as cotton are
hydrophilic , meaning that their
surface has bonding sites for
water molecules.
-Therefore, water tends to be
retained in the hydrophilic fibers,
which have poor moisture
transportation and release.
- Synthetic fibers such as polyester
are hydrophobic , meaning that their
surface has few bonding sites for
water molecules.
- Hence, they tend to remain dry and
have good moisture transportation
and release. Moisture absorption
and release properties do not coexist
in common fibers.
Use Of Natural And Synthetic Fibre In Moisture
Management
28. MERYL MICRO FIBER:
• It is a nylon micro fibre
• It is made by Nylstar, an Italian company which is one of
the largest manufacturers of Nylon.
• It has a high capacity for moisture absorption and ensures a
balance between the ambient humidity and the body.
• Its application is in Sports wear mainly for Swimming,
Sailing & Athletics.
http://www.google.co.in/search?q=moisture+management+fabric&hl=en&biw=1366&bih=667&
prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Q3CJUI_JcOGrAfKpoDwCw&ved=0CEIQs
29. TREVIRA FINESSE:
• Polyester micro fiber for moisture management
clothing.
• Launched by the German company Hoechst High
Chem in 1987.
• Ideal water transmission and short drying time.
• Used in sports wear and casual wear.
30. C. SPECIAL FIBRES
• Designed to increase the capillary and the humidity
transportation, by means of special profiles.
• The larger surface area of these fibres serves to promote
evaporation.
31. Hygra:
• Hygra is launched by Unitika limited.
• A sheath core type filament yarn composed of fibre
made up of water absorbing polymer and nylon.
• Water absorbing polymer absorbs 35 times its own
weight of water and offer quick releasing property.
• Nylon in the core gives tensile strength and
dimensional stability.
• Main application in athletic wear, skiwear, golf wear
etc.
www.unitika.co.jp/e/products/fbtx-bis/clothes.html
32.
33. Killat N:
• Killat N from Kanebo Ltd is a nylon hollow filament.
• The hollow portion is about 33 per cent of the cross section of each
filament.
• The yarn is spun as bi-component filament yarn with
polyester as the core portion and nylon as the skin portion.
• It gives good water absorbency and warmth retentive property.
• It is used in sports wear.
34. TRIACTOR:
• Toyoba Co Ltd has developed Triactor.
• A perspiration absorbing/quick drying polyester filament.
• Cross- section is Y-shaped.
• Its hydrophobic nature helps in quick drying.
www.technica.net/NF/NF1/etriactor.htm
35. D.Wicking Windows
• The WICKING WINDOWS™ is a moisture management
technology for cotton that transfers moisture away from the
body, reduces absorbent capacity for faster drying and
reduces fabric cling.
• Introduced by Cotton Incorporated, USA.
• Discontinuous water repellent treatment on the surface of the
cotton are applied on the side of the fabric that will worn
next to the skin.
• Fluropolymers , silicones, waxes etc are used.
hanuo.gmc.globalmarket.com/.../wicking-windows-fabric-558829.ht...
38. Cool Max Fabric
CoolMax is a lightweight hydrophilic fabric made from four- or six
channel polyester fibres, designed by DuPont company.
www.alibaba.com/showroom/moisture-management-fabric.htm
39. Field sensor is a high-performance knitted polyester fabric with a
multilayer structure. It is registered trademark of Toray Industries.
Perspiration Quickly Evaporates
Quickly Absorb
Sweat
Sweat Transported
to outer Surface
Sweat
Outer Layer
Inner Layer
Skin
1
2
3
Field Sensor Fabric
www.fibre2fashion.com/.../moisture-management-and-wicking1.asp
40. Thermolite is a lightweight polyester fabric made with hollow-core
which combines insulation with moisture wicking properties. It is
designed by DuPont Company.
Thermolite Fabric
www.cottoninc.com/product/.../Moisture Management/Technology
41. Polartec Power Dry fabrics are 100% polyester, highly
breathable, and ideal when worn as the base layer for those
playing sports. It is manufactured by Maden mills.
Polartec Power Dry Fabrics
www.aatcc.org/Technical/Test_Methods/scopes/tm195.cfm
42. Sportwool is a lightweight, composite fabric consisting of a layer of
superfine Merino wool next to the skin and a layer of tough, easy-care
polyester on the outside. It is a trade mark of Woolmark Company.
SPORTWOOL FABRIC
www.dibisport.co.uk/userfiles/Performance_Fabrics_Di-Bi.pdf
43. GORETEX
It is made by gore manufacturer
Fabric used in skiwear, hiking jackets etc.
Performance characteristics of Goretex
•Durably waterproof
•Very breathable
•Highly cold resistant
•Extremely light
•Resistant to flexing
www.testingtextiles.com/news
44. Out Last Fabric
Outlast technology, originally
developed for NASA, utilizes phase
change materials (PCM) that absorb,
store and release heat for optimal
thermal comfort.
When we begin to get too warm, the
Outlast technology will absorb and
store excess heat radiating from the
skin to reduce overheating and help
prevent perspiration.
When we begin to cool down, the
stored heat is released, reducing
chilling. By proactively managing heat,
you regulate temperature so your
customers feel not too hot, not too
cold but "just right."
It is developed by OEL Company in USA.
www.wickem.com/portfolio-view/moisture-management
45. Brand Name Manufacturer
Polartec Malden Mills
Xalt Burlington
Gore-Tex Gore
Activent Gore
DryLine Milliken
Akwatek Comfort Technologies
Akwadyne Comfort Technologies
Thermastat DuPont
Versatech Burlington Mills
Therma F.I.T. Nike
Windstopper Gore
Pile & Pertex Buffalo
46. 46
FIREFIGHTING AND THERMAL COMFORT
• Firefighting is an exhaustive physical task which generates body
heat, also in addition extremely hot working environment results
in substantial elevation of body core temperature.
• To reduce that temperature to normal, the body perspires in
liquid and vapour form. For better control of body temperature in
keeping it a normal level the evaporation of perspiration is
necessary.
• Thermal comfort of human body is maintained by
perspiring both in vapour and liquid form and
moisture transmissionthrough clothing has a great
influence on its thermal comfort. Troynikov et.al (2011)
47. Fabric
code
Fibre
composition
Construction
SJ1 100% Merino
wool
Single Jersey
SJ2 60% Merino
Wool/ 40%
Bamboo
Single Jersey
SJ3 100%Cotton Single Jersey
SJ4 94% Merino
wool/ 6% spandex
Single Jersey
IM1 100%Polyester Interlock based mock
mesh
IM2 52% Merino wool
/ 48% Biophyl
Interlock based mock
mesh
•Wool blends are the most suitable
fabric to be used next to skin to achieve
thermal comfort.
• The fibre content, fabric construction
and fabric thickness influence thermal
comfort significantly.
•IM2 have better moisture
management properties as compared
to the other sample fabrics of the
study.
Troynikov et.al (2011) studied moisture management properties of wool/
polyester and wool/bamboo knitted in single jersey fabrics for the sportswear
base layers and concluded that,Blending wool fibre with polyester fibre and, in
particular, wool fibre with regenerated bamboo fibre, improved moisture
management properties than fabrics in wool fibre or regenerated bamboo fibre
without blending.
Troynikov, O., et all, Wiah, W., (2011). "Moisture management properties of wool/polyester and wool/bamboo knitted fabrics for sportswear
base layer." Textile Research Journal 0: 1-11.
48. MOISTURE MANGEMENT PROPERTY OF DIFFERENT
FIBRE AND THEIR BLENDS
S.
No.
Name Of Fibre And Fibre
Blends
1. Wool
2. Polyester
3. Wool + Polyester(50 : 50 )
4. Finecool
5. Wool/Finecool (50 : 50 )
6. Wool + Finecool (75 : 25 )
7. Coolmax
8. Wool + Coolmax (50 + 50 )
9. Wool + Coolmax (75 +25 )
RESULTS OF HORIZONTAL WICKING TEST
Fangueiro R. And Goncalves P.(2009).Moisture Management Performance Of Functional Yarns Based On Wool Fibres. Indian Journal Of Fibre And
Textile Research,vol(34),315-320.
˃ Wool
˃ Wool + Polyester (50 : 50 )
˃Wool+ Finecool (50 : 50 )
˃ Wool+ Finecool( 75 : 25 )
˃ Wool +Coolmax (50 : 50)
˃ Wool + Coolmax (75 :25 )
˃ Polyester
˃ Finecool
Coolmax
50. Results Of Drying Rate At Standard
Condition
˃ Finecool
˃ Wool +Finecool (75 :25)
˃ Wool
˃ Coolmax
˃ Wool+finecool (50:50)
Wool+ Polyester
blend(50:50)
˃ Polyester
˃ Wool+ Coolmax (50:50)
˃ Coolmax
˃ Wool+Polyester(50:50)
˃ Wool
Finecool
Results Of Drying Rate At 330 C
Temperature
51. Methods Used To Determine The Wet Ability Of A
Textile Material
TENSIOMETRY – It is used to measure the wet ability of the fabric by
measuring the wetting force given by wilhelmy.
GONIOMETRY – In this method the wet ability of A material is measured by
measuring the contact angle between the liquid and the fabric by the image
processing method.
The development of AUTOMATED CONTACT ANGLE TESTER(ASTM D 5725-
99), HTHP contact angle tester and DROP ANALYZER TESTER are based on
two processes are used, namely :
The Static Wetting Angle Measurement
The Dynamic Wetting Angle Measurement
52. • Drying time
• Evaporation
• Absorbency
• Wicking test
MOISTURE MANAGEMENT TEST
53. • A droplet of water is placed on flat fabric
(face up).
• The time taken for the droplet to
completely penetrate into the fabric is
recorded up to a maximum of 60 seconds.
WATER DROPLET
TM
TEST METHOD
Standard -ASTM D5530www.technotex.gov.in/Testining%20method
54. • Vertically suspend fabric samples so that
bottom is just touching water surface.
• Measure the distance travelled
by the water during a set period
of time.
• Measure performance in both
warp and weft direction.
WICKING
TM
TEST METHOD
Standard -ASTM D 1683
http://www.ihs.com/products/industry-standards/org/astm/textiles/index.aspx
55. • Very simple to carry out.
• Apply 1 ml of water and measure
the maximum diameter of spread
after 1 minute.
SPREADING
TM
TEST METHOD
Standard-ASTM D7024www.aatcc.org/events/workshops/ITT.htm
56. • Circle of fabric 10 cm in
diameter
• Place on to the surface
of water in a beaker for
• 10 seconds then
accurately weigh the pick
up of water.
ABSORPTION
TM
TEST METHOD
Standard -ASTM D4632
http://www.chemicalfabricsandfilm.com/pdfs_researchSection/stan
dards/stm2011.pdf
57. • Fabric samples are wet out
completely, hydro-extracted
and weighed accurately.
• Samples then hung vertically
and weighed every five minutes
until a constant weight is
reached this is the drying time. 0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50
Time (minutes)
%WateronFabric
Untreated
Passerelle
Drying time
TM
TEST METHOD
Standard -ASTM C692www.aatcc.org/events/workshops/ITT.htm
58. Circle of fabric laid flat in the
bottom of a petry dish.
Weigh dish and sample before
adding 1 ml of water, reweigh and
record change in weight over 30
minutes.
Calculate % water evaporated and
actual weight of water evaporated
to give graphic representation.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0 5 10 15 20 25 30
%WaterEvaporated
Time (minutes)
EVAPORATION
TM
TEST METHOD
Standard -ASTM D5800
www.astm.org/Standardshtm
http://www.chemicalfabricsandfilm.com/pdfs_researchSection/stan
dards/stm2011.pdf
59. 59
MOISTURE MANAGEMENT TESTER INDICES
A series of indexes are defined and calculated to characterize liquid moisture
management performance of the test sample by using moisture management
tester, which are as follow;
• Top wetting time WTt and bottom wetting time WTb
• Top absorption rate (ARt) and bottom absorption rate (ARb)
• Top max wetted radius (MWRt) and bottom max wetted radius (MWRb)
• Top spreading speed (SSt) and bottom spreading speed (SSb)
• Accumulative one-way transport index (AOTI) and overall moisture
management capacity (OMMC)
60. 60
The OMMC is an index indicating the overall capacity of the fabric to
manage the transport of liquid moisture, which includes three aspects
1. Average moisture absorption rate at the bottom surface
2. One-way liquid transport capacity
3. Maximum moisture spreading speed on the bottom surface
The larger the OMMC is the higher the overall moisture management
ability of the fabric is.
According to AATCC Test Method 195–2009, the indices are graded and
converted from value to grade based on a five grade scale (1–5). The five
grades of indices represent:
1 – Poor
2 – Fair
3 – Good
4 – Very good
5 – Excellent
MOISTURE MANAGEMENT TESTER INDICES
61. During testing, each fabric specimen, the size of 80 x 80 mm, was
placed flat between the top and bottom sensors and a predetermined
quantity (0.15 g) of the testing solution was pumped onto the upper
surface of the fabric to simulate a drop of liquid sweat. The signal for
electrical resistance of the fabric samples was processed by the MMT.
All fabrics were tested under the same laboratory conditions. The
upper surface of the fabric is considered the surface closest to the skin
of the human body and the bottom surface of the fabric .
PROCEDURE
62. Sketch of MMT sensors: (a) sensor structure; (b)
measuring rings (Yao et al. 2006)
63. TABLE 1. GRADING OF MMT INDICES
WTt
(sec)
WTb
(sec)
ARt
(%/sec)
ARb
(%/sec)
MWRt
(mm)
MWRb
(mm)
SSt
(mm/sec)
SSb
(mm/sec)
AOTI
(%)
OMMC
64. Unit Used For Measuring Absorption And Wicking
Of Fabric
For Bulk Absorption:
Bulk material absorption (BMA)
Bulk absorption rate (BAR)
Bulk absorption (BAT)
For Bulk Adsorption:
Amount of water wicked (AWW)
Surface-water transport rate (SWTR)
Wicking time (WT)
65. Product
Name
Manufact-
urer
Characteristics End Use
Gore-Tex W.L. Gore The original waterproof/
breathable laminated fabric with
pores large enough for water to
escape, small enough to block rain
Gloves, Hat,
Footwear, Outwear,
Cycling and Running
apparel
Drylete Hind Combines hydrofoil nylon and
hydrophobic polyester to push
moisture from the body and then
pull it through fabric for quick drying
Skiwear, Running
apparel
Hydrofil Allied A new super-absorbent hydrophilic
nylon that sucks moisture away from
skin
Linings, Long
underwear, Cycling
apparel
Supplex DuPont A strong, quick drying nylon fabric, in
smooth or textured weaves, that
feels like cotton
Out Running and
wear, Skiwear,
Cycling apparel
Synera Amoco A strong, light weight PP fabric that
transports moisture away from skin
Long underwear,
Jacket linings
Thinsulate 3M Thin insulation made of polyester
and polypropylene fibres
Skiwear, Gloves,
Footwear
68. Moisture management property is an important aspect for any
textile material which decides the comfort level of the fabric.
Every human being sweats during different kinds of activities.
The important factor is how it transports the water out of the
body surface so as to make the wearer feel comfortable.
Moisture management is the main prerequisite for active sports
performance. This can be achieved in many ways like changing
the fibre polymer chemistry and by fabric chemical treatments .
The moisture management is a essential property for any
textiles/apparels especially for sports wears. The normal sports
wears can have low moisture transfer but the active sports wear
must have high moisture transfer.
69. In hot conditions, trapped moisture may heat up and lead to fatigue
or diminished performance or it may result in hyperthermia.
In cold conditions, trapped moisture will drop in temperature and
cause chilling and hypothermia.
Excess moisture may also cause the garment to become heavy, as
well as cause damage to the skin from chafing.
70. TEMPERATURE BALANCE THROUGH CLOTHING
ENHANCE PERFORMANCE
• Heats from high low temp. until
“thermal equilibrium” (body &
surroundings temp. are same) is
reached.
• Body produces heat & sweat emit
up to 2 liters/hr when running.
• Water conducts heat away from
body 25 times faster than air
(dangerous in cold temp).
For winter wear
• Fabric – maximize insulation maintain warming properties with sweat or
rain.
• Synthetics good to wick the moisture away.
• Outer layers – keep out the wind & rain, but may affect ventilation.
• Minimize layers choose fabrics offer both wicking & warming properties.
71. The importance of heat management to running
• 25% body energy goes moving
muscle & 75% uses to regulate
heat.
• Body temp appx 2C when
running.
• Body consume energy to cool
things down when it is heated.
• Garment delivers the benefit of
sweating w/o you losing any
fluid
• Over heat / Cooler skin temp
have to spend extra energy
during the race.
USE OF MOISTURE MANGEMENT IN SPORTS WEAR
The Moisture Management Is Mainly For Energy Balance
Of Human Body When It Is Exposed To The Environment.
72.
73.
74. Review Of Literature
• Review Of Literature Is Covered Under The Various
Sub Headings :
• Comfort Related Properties Of Fabric
• Thermoregulatory Functions Of Clothing
• Natural Fibres
• Regenerated Fibres
• Synthetic Fibre
• Modified Polyester
• Micro Fibre
• Fibre Blend
• Functionality Requirements For Active Sportswear
• Moisture Management Testing
75. The wettability characteristics of different cotton, polyester
and multilayered cotton /polyester fabrics have been studied
to manage human perspiration well. The vertical capillary
action behavior of these fabrics has been compared by
measuring the capillary height as a function of time. Wicking
coefficient in multilayered fabrics are found to be much better
than in other fabrics of 100% cotton. The yarn and the
bonding weave between the two layers are very important for
the capillary rise( T. Sharabaty et.al.,2008).
76. Blends of wool and moisture management fibres such as
coolmax and finecool have been prepared to produce innovative
yarns with specific functionalities .these yarns have been used
to produce knitted fabrics and their performance is evaluated,
including the vertical and horizontal wicking . The drying
capabilitity of the fabrics has been assessed by drying rate
testing under two different conditions, namely standared
conditions (20±2oc and 65±3%rh) and, in an oven temperature
at 33±2oc to simulate the body skin temperature .the influence
of wool fibre proportion on the performances of each blend is
analyzed. It was observed that the coolmax based fabrics
showed the best capillarity performance and the wool based
fabrics show low water absorption performance but good
drying rate.(Fangueiro,R.And Gonclaves,P.,2009).
77. Cotton fabrics generally wick well and typically absorb
much more moisture than synthetic fibers. It is this
characteristic that has limited cotton’s ability to perform well
in activewear and performance apparel end uses. Through
new advances in technology, cotton can be engineered to
transfer moisture away from the skin to the outside of the
fabric, keeping the wearer dryer and more comfortable.
Fabrics treated with the WICKING WINDOWS technology
are less absorbent so they not only cling to the body less,
they also dry much faster during and after exercise.
(by Rachel Crumbley).
78. Micro fibre fabrics allow large quantities of water through the
outer surface of the material within seconds due to the presence of
micro capillaries. Blending small proportion of hydrophobic fibre
like micro polyester with hydrophilic fiber enhances the
wickability and drying characteristics of the fabric resulting in
excellent moisture handling capability and easy care. Hence Micro
polyester fiber is selected to blend with micro lyocell fiber to
produce yarns with varying blend proportions and the fabrics
produced were investigated for their moisture management
property. From the experimental result, it has been found that
water vapor permeability, liquid water permeability and moisture
spreading of the material increases with the increase in number of
hydrophilic group in the material, but the dry ability of the
material increases with the increase in the micro polyester
proportion.( Kandhavadivu,P.And Ramachandran,T.,2011)
79. Heat and moisture vapour transmission characteristics of different
types of multilayered fabrics are studied two sets of multilayered
fabrics have been prepared. In the first set, two types of carded web
produced from acrylic and polyester fibres with five different areal
densities in each fibre type have been used as a middle layer. In second
set, different types of fabrics namely woven, knitted, felt, single –sided
fleeced and double sided fleeced fabrics made from wool fibres have
been used as a middle layer. in both the sets of ,two types of inner and
outer layer fabrics have been used. Silk and polyester woven fabrics
have been as inner layer and plain woven nylon coated and PTFE
coated fabrics have been used as outer layer. . in both the sets ,silk
inner layer fabric ensembles show higher thermal resistance and less
water vapour permeability than polyester fabric ensembles .in the first
set of multilayered fabrics ,irrespective of the type of fibres, the
increase in areal density of the fabrics increases the thermal resistance
and reduces moisture vapour transmission of the fabrics, in second set
of multilayered fabrics,woven,felt and knitted fabrics ensembles show
lesser thermal resistance and moisture vapour transmission than the
fleeced ensembles (Das, A. And Biswas, B.,2011)
80. The lyocell fabrics both pile and twill structure proves to be
an excellent combination for bed sores prevention in all
aspects like air permeability ,thermal conductivity ,moisture
vapour management.lyocell pile, cotton/polyester knitted
fleece and cotton /polypropylene plaited knitted fabrics can
be used for cold climate conditions . the thermal
conductivity for lyocell fabrics of pile and twill combination
have noticed higher followed by micro polyester and fleece
fabrics (Mallikarjunan,K.2011).
81. The liquid and water vapour permeability of a material plays an
important role in determining clothing performance and in
maintaining human body comfort. The evaluation method is of the
utmost importance in determining the material properties
accurately. The experimental apparatus and the testing methods
should simulate the wear conditions very closely. Many methods are
available to measure the ability of a fabric to transmit moisture
through textiles; but the results obtained by the different methods
cannot be compared directly due to the different testing conditions,
the parameters measured and the units used. The moisture
transmission behavior of fibrous assemblies may be mathematically
modeled to predict the clothing behavior in actual wear conditions(
Brojeswari D., And Kothari V.K.,2007).
82. Nomex III A is a moisture barrier fabric that has a 100 water
repellency rating,exceeding baseline requirements. There was
no sticking or wetting of the upper surface of the fabric. The
fabric, being of medium weight, will tear; however, this fabric
would be the third layer of a composite so there should be no
penetration of objects or punctures that would affect this
layer. Flame resistance is excellent . Fabric does exhibit some
stiffness, but it does exceed baseline requirements, giving
mobility to the wearer.Nomex III A can be used as a moisture
barrier within the firefighter uniform.
(A thesis submitted to University of Arkansas on the topis Cotton as an Innovative Fabric
83. These results of the study show study that the evaporation
rate per surface area was independent of the initial amount of
moisture supplied to the clothing assembly, but depended on
the localisation of the moisture. Moisture evaporated faster
from the outer layers of the assembly than from the inner
ones. Moisture is known to influence the heat transfer through
clothing assemblies by changing their thermal properties
(thermal conductivity and heat capacity). This study suggests
that an additional (moisture-assisted) heat flux takes place by
evaporation of moisture in the outer layers and
recondensation near the body. The intensity and duration of
this additional heat flux depends on the evaporation rate and
the amount of moisture stored in the layers
(Keiser, C.,2010)
84. Conductive fabrics combine the breathing/ moisture
managing finishes with high metallic content in textiles. With
the addition of nickel, copper and silver coatings of varying
thickness, these fibers provide a versatile combination of
physical and electrical properties for a variety of applications.
For example, the thermal conductivity of fabric is increased a
thousand-fold after the fibers are metallized. Clothing
constructed with conventional polymers have minimal
thermal insulation.Another type of conductive fiber is carbon.
ECT (Electric Conductive Textile) is a carbonized glass fiber
textile, each filament of which is coated with a few
nanometers of carbon. The textile can be woven, braided or
knitted with any kind of glass fiber and any kind of yarn. The
carbon creates the electrical conductivity and therefore
electrical resistance. This electrical resistance presents the
opportunity to use the textile as an electric heating medium.
(By Dr. Sanjay Gupta)
85. Finishing with Sarasoil X, Coolcot Dry and Geotex HPA
imparts a quality whereby moistureis quickly transported
from the fabric and is allowed to evaporate, thereby giving a
cooling effect and comfort to the wearer. In addition, fabric
finished with above products showed improved antisoil and
antistatic properties. These finishes are durable to repeated
home laundering conditions. Thus, fabric finished with
Sarasoil X, Coolcot Dry and Geotex HPA make synthetic
textiles universally applicable, especially in sportswear,
underwear, uniforms and workwear, as well as in medical
and technical textiles.
An article on Hydrophilising Agents to Impart Comfort Propertiesto Synthetic Fabrics By
Dr Naresh M. Saraf, Dr Geeta N. Sheth and Dr A.G. Sabale,of Sarex Overseas, India
86. A quantitative study of various comfort related properties (thermal and
moisture management properties) carried out on different knitted fabric
structures containing Outlast® and Coolmax® yarns, and aiming at the
selection the most adequate fabric for sportswear applications.the results
obtained from this showed that the thermal and moisture management
performance of the studied fabrics is greatly affected by raw material
properties, which significantly increased or decreased the values of the
different comfort related properties evaluated. Moreover, the properties of
Outlast® and Coolmax® fabrics are significantly influenced by fabric
characteristics and structure, particularly in what concerns thermal
properties, diffusion ability, air and water vapor permeability. Wicking
ability is mainly determined by fabric structure and the drying ability by
raw material properties. Outlast® fabrics are considered preferred
candidates for warmer climate sportswear, particularly due to their lower
thermal resistance, higher thermal conductivity and absorptivity and higher
water vapor permeability. As regards Coolmax® fabrics, the results pointed
to a preferential use on sportswear applications for colder ambient
conditions, particularly due to their high thermal resistance together with
high wicking and diffusion ability.
Onofrei, E., Rocha A.M., Catarino A. (1983).
87. The study suggest that it is possible to drain moisture in arbitrary
downward directions or even horizontally using a drainage system
.surplus water can be collected and let out of the clothing or for example
into water reservoir .using a two layer drainage system, surplus sweat can
be drained away from the skin to an outer layer and then along the
drainage out of the clothing .this would allow managing all sweat directly
in the under wear. Moisture accumulation in the fire fighter jacket or
trousers could be avoided using such a drainage system. The best effect
can be achieved with a hydrophobic inner layer in combination with a
hydrophilic outer layer (Keiser,C., 2007).
88. This study is the first in a series of reports on understanding the
performance of fire fighter clothing, in protecting skin from thermal injury
that results from exposure to high intensity thermal radiation. A detailed
mathematical model is constructed to study transient heat and moisture
transfer through multi-layered fabric assemblies with or without air gaps.
The model accounts for changes in thermodynamic and transport
properties of the fabric due to the presence of moisture. Numerical
simulations are performed to study heat and mass transport through wet
thermal liners (used in fire fighter protective clothing) when subjected to a
radiative heat flux from a gas fired radiant panel. Results were found to
compare well with experimental measurements. The numerical solutions
are further analyzed to provide a detailed physical understanding of the
governing processes. Moisture in the cloth tends to vaporise upon heating
and part of it recondenses in the interior of the cloth. It was observed that
the temperature of the fabric layers and total heat flux to the skin is
significantly influenced by the amount of moisture and the distribution of
moisture in the protective clothing.
(By Prasad K. , Twilley W., Lawson J. R.,2002)
89. Suprelle™´s outstanding micro fibre technology has been designed to
match the unique characteristics of real down. It offers an excellent
thermal insulation in duvets and soft, supportive comfort in pillows, with
its ability to return to its original shape. The unique softness of Suprelle™
comes from its ultra fine and short fibres and allows a perfect balance
between comfort and technical performance. The brand is also available in
an anti-microbial version:Suprelle™ Ultra with built-in resistance to
bacteria, fungi and dust-mites. Suprelle™ Fresh in a blend with TENCEL
provides excellent moisture management and enhanced microclimate.
(www.advansa.com)
90. Climarelle™ is a high-tech brand bringing thermo-
regulation to the complete range of bedding, sleeping bags
and insulated apparel. The Phase Change Material (mPCM)
microcapsules integrated within the Climarelle™ become
fluid with a cooling effect when temperature is higher than
ideal. When body temperature falls again, the
microcapsules change phase from liquid to solid, releasing
heat energy to the body and helping it to keep warm despite
lower temperatures. Thus, thermo-regulating microcapsules
store warmth actively and release it only when necessary,
providing a balanced sleeping temperature all night long.
(www.advansa.com)
91. The result of the study showed that 100% wool or wool blend
with bamboo is preferable choice to use next to skin garments
in extreme hot environments. Single jersey is the better fabric
structure as compared to mock mesh being thinner and lighter
weight as compared to double jersey mock mesh. The
presence of moisture significantly affects the thermal
properties of the synthetics when compared to wool or wool
blends with natural fibres.
( by Nazia Nawaz)
92. The sports industry has driven much research within the textile industry to help
improve athletic performance, personal comfort, and protection from the
elements. Synthetics that were once thought to be inferior to natural fabrics now
boast highperformance characteristics. Numerous products designed to improve
the comfort of the wearer are commercially available; for instance, there are
breathable waterproof fabrics such as Gore-Tex® and moisture-management
textiles that wick moisture away from the skin such as Coolmax®. Gore-Tex®
fabric uses a membrane of expanded poly(tetrafluoroethylene) (PTFE) that has
pores of less than 1 mm in diameter, allowing water vapor to penetrate the
material, but preventing the passage of liquid. To maintain the wearer’s comfort,
it is important that sweat is allowed to evaporate, maintaining the body’s natural
thermoregulatory function. High-performance moisture-wicking fabrics worn
next to the skin transport perspiration away from the body to the outside of the
garment where it can more quickly evaporate. This is achieved using synthetic
microfibers that, unlike natural fibers, do not absorb moisture, but rather pass it
through by a wicking effect that makes them more comfortable to wear. It is even
possible to maintain constant body temperature using phase-change technology
such as Outlast Adaptive Comfort®. Phasechanging materials (PCMs) absorb,
store, and release heat as the material changes phase from solid to liquid and back
to solid.
Coyle S., Wu Y., Lau K.U., Rossi D.D., Wallace G.,And Diamond D. (2007)
93. Kanebo Spinning Corp. of Japan has produced a polyester
yarn with thirty times the ability of normal polyester to
absorb moisture. The yarn, suitable for use in undergarments,
has twenty layers for containing moisture and oil content. The
layers have a total thickness of fifty nanometres.Toray
Industries, Inc. of Japan has developed a fabric containing
bundles of ultra fine nanometre nylon threads that allow
superior moisture absorption properties.
( http://www.observatorynano.eu/).
94. Several moisture management finishes have been used to
increase moisture absorbency; the fabric is durable to
repeated home laundering and improves wetting and wicking
action. For example, Resil HJHP is used particularly for
increasing moisture absorbency of polyester fabrics and
when combined with resil Nanocelle G6, can improve the
wicking properties of fabrics of all types .
(Manickam 2006)
95. A new hydrophilic finish, Sandoperm RPU Liquid is a new
thermo-reactive polyurethane for dry fast, very full and
extremely soft handle on cellulosic and polyamide fibres.
Applied with silicone softeners, Sandoperm RPU Liquid
produces a hydrophilic finish, improving the elasticity/shape
recovery of knitted goods. The Nano-Dry finish from Nano-
Tex LLC is a durable, hydrophilic finish for nylon and
polyester. In the latter fibre polyethylene glycol and amino
silicone in nano-form are claimed to be applied to sportswear
and underwear requiring perspiration absorbency.
(Holme 2007)
96. The study was done to explore the effect of textile properties on the
microclimate inside the cap and subjective wearing sensation in various
environmental conditions ,with and without radiation or air current
.heat and moisture transfer properties of cap fabrics were measured and
their relationships with the microclimate inside caps and with the
subjective wearing sensation in the three different environmental
conditions were analyzed. The most important fabric properties
affecting the microclimate in a hot environment was found to be those
related to liquid moisture transport and emission.properties related to
vapour transport and air permeability did not affect the microclimate
much in hot environment without radiation and air current .however ,in
the radiation environment ,fabric with high thermal retention generated
a microclimate with low temperature and humidity ,thereby giving good
thermal comfort .in the environment with air current ,air permeability
and its related properties were the most critical fabric properties
influencing the microclimate and subjective thermal comfort.
(Jun,Y.,Park,C.H.,2010)
97. There are specific physical textile properties that may be measured
in an effort to predict the comfort performance of fabric. Basically a
textile material should be evaluated in terms of the most general
functional properties: thickness, weight, thermal insulation,
resistance to evaporation and air penetration. There are three
clothing factors that relate directly to thermal comfort. First is the
overall thickness of the materials and air spaces between the skin
and environment. Second is the extent to which air can penetrate
the clothing by wind or wearer motion. Third is the requirement
that fabric does not restrict the evaporation of perspiration
(Andersson 1999).
COMFORT RELATED PROPERTIES OF FABRIC
98. Wear comfort is a complex phenomenon but in general it
can be divided into four main aspects (Bartels 2005).
• THERMOPHYSIOLOGICAL WEAR COMFORT- This comprises heat and
moisture transport processes through the clothing and directly
influences a person’s thermoregulation.
• SKIN SENSORIAL WEAR COMFORT-This deals with the mechanical
sensations caused by textiles as it is in direct contact with the skin.
Pleasant and unpleasant perceptions such as smoothness or softness,
scratchiness, stiffness, or clinging to sweat-wetted skin may be created
by textiles.
• ERGONOMIC WEAR COMFORT- This is characterized by the fit of the
clothing and the freedom of movement it allows. The garment's
construction and the elasticity of the materials are the main aspect of
ergonomic wear comfort.
• PSYCHOLOGICAL WEAR COMFORT- This is of importance as well. It is
affected by fashion, personal preferences and ideology.
contd..
99. Nielsen (1991) viewed comfort in a
physical sense as the body being in a heat
balance with the environment (thermal
comfort), that the body is not being subject
to pressure from narrow or badly designed
clothing (movement comfort) and that skin
irritation does not occur from unpleasant
contact with clothing (sensorial comfort).
Ishtiaque (2001) stated that clothing
comfort is governed by the interplay of
three components: body, climate and
clothing. The human body, its microclimate
and its clothing form a mutually interactive
system. The body and its microclimate are
invariable; the clothing system is the only
variable.
contd..
100. Thermophysiological wear comfort concerns the heat and
moisture transport properties of clothing and the way that
clothing helps to maintain the heat balance of the body during
various levels of activity (Saville 2004).
Sensorial comfort is mainly determined by fabric surface structure
and to some extent by moisture transport and buffering capacity. It is
associated with skin contact sensation and is often expressed as a
feeling of softness, smoothness, clamminess, clinginess, prickliness
and the like. These descriptors can be related to specific, measurable
fabric mechanical and surface properties including the number of
surface fibres and contact points, wet cling to a surface, absorptive,
bending stiffness, resistance to shear and tensile forces, and coolness
to the touch. These properties are mainly determined by fibre
characteristics, yarn and fabric construction and fabric finish, but it is
necessary to recognise that the extent of their relationship to comfort
perception in clothing is also influenced by garment construction and
properties (Yoo & Barker 2005).
101. Thermophysiological wear comfort
concerns the heat and moisture transport
properties of clothing and the way that
clothing helps to maintain the heat balance
of the body during various levels of activity
(Saville 2004).
Thermophysiological comfort has two distinct phases. During normal
wear, insensible perspiration is continuously generated by the body.
Steady state heat and moisture vapour fluxes are thus created and must
gradually dissipate to maintain thermoregulation and a feeling of
thermal comfort. In this case the clothing becomes a part of the steady
state thermoregulatory system. In transient wear conditions,
characterised by an intermittent pulse of moderate or heavy sweating
caused by strenuous activity or climatic conditions, sensible perspiration
and liquid sweat occur and must be rapidly managed by the clothing. This
property is important in terms of the sensorial and thermoregulatory
comfort of the wearer. Therefore, heat and moisture transfer properties
under both steady and transient conditions must be considered to
predict wearer comfort (Yoo & Barker 2005; Barker 2002).
contd..
102. Sensorial comfort does not directly involve
any temperature balance but is related to
the way the person feels when clothing is
worn next to the skin. Feeling wet and wet
clinging can be a major source of sensorial
discomfort in situations of profuse sweating
(Kothari & Sanyal 2003).
Sensorial comfort is mainly determined by fabric surface structure and to
some extent by moisture transport and buffering capacity. It is associated
with skin contact sensation and is often expressed as a feeling of softness,
smoothness, clamminess, clinginess, prickliness and the like. These
descriptors can be related to specific, measurable fabric mechanical and
surface properties including the number of surface fibres and contact
points, wet cling to a surface, absorptivity, bending stiffness, resistance to
shear and tensile forces, and coolness to the touch. These properties are
mainly determined by fibre characteristics, yarn and fabric construction
and fabric finish, but it is necessary to recognise that the extent of their
relationship to comfort perception in clothing is also influenced by
garment construction and properties (Yoo & Barker 2005b).
contd..
103. In general the principal thermoregulatory challenge during
exercise in the cold is the dissipation of metabolic heat which
can be alleviated by removing layers of clothing as the body
warms. Thus the ideal winter clothing in dry, cold conditions
blocks air movement but allows for water vapour to escape
through the clothing if sweating occurs
(Crow & Osczevski 1998; Gavin 2003).
Moisture-handling properties of textiles during intense physical
activities have been regarded as major factor in comfort
performance. The comfort perceptions of clothing are
influenced by wetness or drying of the fabric and thermal
sensations resulting from the interactions of fabric moisture
and heat transfer-related properties. The garment worn next to
the skin should have good sweat absorption and sweat-
releasing property to the atmosphere and fast-drying property
for more tactile comfort (Kothari & Sanyal2003).
THERMOREGULARITY
FUNCTIONSOFCLOTHING
There are two principal thermal properties that
determine clothing effects on heat exchanges by
convection, radiation and evaporation: thermal insulation
and evaporative resistance (Holmer 2005).
104. Higgins and Anand (2003) Summarised the important textile properties for
comfort:
• INTRINSIC THERMAL INSULATION
The intrinsic thermal insulation of a fabric can be determined by measuring its
resistance to the heat transmission of heat by conduction. Intrinsic thermal
insulation is proportional to the thickness of fabrics. It does not include the layer of
air next to the fabric during use.
• THERMAL INSULATION
Thermal insulation is the resistance of a fabric and the layer of air next to it during
use to dry or conductive heat loss. Unlike intrinsic thermal insulation, thermal
insulation varies with the ambient wind speed. As the speed increases, the thermal
insulation provided by the layer of air decreases.
• RESISTANCE TO EVAPORATIVE HEAT LOSS
Resistance to evaporative heat loss measures the ability of a fabric, together with
the layer of air next to the fabric during use, to prevent cooling of the body by
evaporation of heat generated during activity. Resistance to evaporative heat loss
can be measured on either dry or damp fabrics.
contd..
105. THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY
The thermal conductivity of a fabric is determined by the rate of transmission of heat
through fabric. It is reciprocal of thermal insulation or thermal resistance.
• Moisture vapour permeability
Moisture vapour permeability represents the resistance of a fabric to the transfer of
water vapour, also known as insensible perspiration, released by body. Relative
moisture vapour permeability is the percentage of water vapour transmitted through
the fabric sample compared with the percentage of water vapour transmitted
through an equivalent thickness of air. Low moisture permeability hinders the
passage of perspiration through the fabric, leading to the accumulation of sweat in
the clothing. The rate of water vapour transmission through the fabric is also usually
reduced by increasing the fabric thickness.
• Water absorption
Water absorption is the capacity of a fabric to absorb the sweat generated by the
body and the rate at which it is able to do so. To prevent wet clinging, the fabric’s
absorption should be low at the surface of the fabric which makes contact with the
skin.
CONTD..
106. • Wicking
Wicking is the capacity of a fabric to transport absorbed sweat away from the
point of absorption, usually the skin and the rate at which it does so.
• Air permeability
Air permeability is a measure of how well air is able to flow through a fabric.
It can bemeasured on either dry or damp fabrics. A fabric which has good air
permeability,however, does not necessarily have good moisture vapour
permeability.Air permeability is likely to be lower in fabrics where the
absorption of water leads to swelling of the fibre and the yarn.
• Rate of drying
The rate of drying is the rate at which water is evaporated from the outer
surface of a fabric. The rate of drying must be sufficient to achieve continuous
wicking and to prevent the fabric from becoming saturated with sweat.
CONTD..
107. •Wind proofing
Wind proofing is a mechanism for reducing the heat loss from a
garment by convection, thus improving the overall thermal insulation
of clothing system.
• Surface coefficient of friction
The surface coefficient of friction of a fabric contributes to its sensory
comfort. The coefficient of friction usually increases significantly
when a fabric has become wet, leading to rubbing or chafing of the
skin. A low coefficient of friction is also essential when one layer of
fabric is required to move freely against another layer.
contd..
108. Cotton
Cotton is a natural vegetable fibre composed mainly of
cellulose and cultivated from a seed-pod-forming plant.
Cotton is hydrophilic fibre, 8.5% moisture regain. It has
poor elasticity, 3–10% elongation at breaking point. It has
74% recovery at 2% elongation; 45% at 5%. The wrinkle
recovery is poor, and wrinkles in use. Cotton does not build
up static electricity. The strength is good, with tenacity of
3–5 grams and increases 10% when wet (Gioello 1982).
NATURAL FIBRES
109. Wool is a natural animal fibre composed mainly of
protein that is formed by the covering or fleece of
the sheep. Wool is hydrophilic fibre, with 13%
moisture regain. Wool has good elasticity, with 20–
40% elongation at breaking point. The wool
recovery is high, 99% recovery at 2% elongation,
65% at 20%. Wool has fair static electricity, is easily
charged by friction on dry, cold days with low
humidity. Wool strength is fair, losing 20% strength
when wet (Gioello 1982).
Wool has good wicking ability and is a good insulator
even when wet. Wool fibres have the highest moisture
regain of all fibre at a given temperature and relative
humidity. Hence wool is able to absorb more moisture
than cotton before becoming saturated. Also wool has a
natural degree of water repellence in gentle or misty
rain, which adds to both thermophysiological and
sensory comfort. However, wool is slow to dry and has
ahigh wet surface coefficient of friction. As a result, there
is a risk of skin abrasion when using wool.
(Higgins & Anand 2003).
WOOL
110. Silk is a natural animal fibre composed mainly
of protein derived from the cocoon of
cultivated or uncultivated silkworms. Silk is
hydrophilic fibre, with 11% moisture regain.
Silk has good elasticity: 20% elongation at
breaking point. Silk has poor recovery if
stretched beyond 2% elongation. It has little
static electricity. Silk has good strength in a
dry state, but weakens and loses 15% of
strength when wet (Gioello 1982).
Silk is a soft, strong natural fibre and has
luxurious handle. It has good wicking
ability.Silk also has high thermal
conductivity and therefore feels cool to
the touch. Silk is not, however, an easy
fibre to care for, which is a disadvantage
in sportswear that is worn frequently
(Higgins & Anand 2003).
SILK
111. Viscose rayon is a manufactured fibre composed
of regenerated cellulose coagulated from a
solution of cellulose xanthate. Viscose rayon has
good absorbency. It is hydrophilic fibre with 13%
moisture regain. It has good elasticity with 15–
30% elongation at breaking point. Viscose rayon
has 82% recovery at 2% elongation and 30%
recovery at 20% elongation. It does not build up
electric static. It has fair to good strength, good
tensile strength when dry, and loses 30–40% of
strength when wet (Gioello 1982).
Like cotton, viscose is 100% cellulose but it
contains a higher proportion of amorphous
material. This makes it more absorbent than
cotton. In addition, the slightly irregular
surface of viscose fibres contributes to
comfort against the skin when worn. Fabrics
composed of viscose fibres, however, are
difficult to launder. This limits their value for
exercise and sports clothing
(Higgins & Anand 2003).
VISCOSE RAYON
Regenerated fibre
112. Lyocell is a 100% cellulosic fibre derived from wood-pulp
produced from sustainable managed forests. The wood-
pulp is dissolved in a solution of hot N-methyl morpholine
oxide (NMMO or amine oxide). The solution is then
extruded (spun) into fibres and the solvent extracted as
the fibres pass through a washing process. The
manufacturing process is designed to recover >99% of the
solvent, helping minimise the effluent. The solvent itself is
non-toxic and all the effluent produced is non-hazardous.
The direct dissolution of the cellulose in an organic solvent
without the formation of an intermediate compound
differentiates the newgeneration of cellulosic fibres.
(Mbe2001).
Lyocell fibres have a uniform circular cross section
and a smooth surface. Fabric derived from lyocell
fibres have the comfort associated with other
cellulosic fibres, but have the added advantage of
higher tensile and tearing strength. Lyocell fibre is
available commercially as Lenzing Lyocell and
Tencel (Higgins & Anand 2003).
LYOCELL
Regenerated fibre
113. Regenerated bamboo fibre is obtained from the
bamboo plant, which is an abundant and cheap
natural resource. Bamboo is widespread in Asian
countries, and the bamboo fibre used in textile
applications is obtained from Phyllostachys
heterocycla pubescens, a species known as Moso
bamboo (Erdumlu & Ozipek 2008).
Because of the distinctive characteristics of regenerated
bamboo fibre, such as its natural antibacterial and
biodegradable properties, high moisture absorption
capacity, softness, brightness as well as UV protective
characteristics, bamboo textile products have started to
edge into the textile market. With its high moisture
absorption capacity (moisture regain 13%) and fast-drying
behaviour due to its unique microstructure (there are
several voids in the cross section of bamboo), bamboo fibre
ensures comfort in various applications. Since chemical
additives are not needed to obtain anti-bacterial
characteristics, such products are not believed to cause skin
allergies (Erdumlu & Ozipek 2008).
BANBOO FIBRE
Regenerated fibre
114. Polyester has poor absorbency with 0.4–0.8%
moisture regain. It has good elasticity, 19–23%.
It has very good recovery: 97% recovery at 2%
elongation, 80% recovery at 8% elongation.
Polyester has high strength, and no loss of
strength when wet (Gioello 1982).
Polyester is the single most popular and
common fibre used for technical textiles.It is
also the most used in active wear and
sportswear. In its unfinished state, polyester
fibre is hydrophobic and has a much lower water
absorption capacity than cotton. Its wicking rate,
although slow compared with other synthetic
fibres, is faster than that of cotton. Polyester
fibre is also cheap to manufacture, easy to care
for and has excellent washing and wearing
properties (Higgins & Anand 2003).
POLYESTER
115. Polyamide has fair to poor absorbency with
4–4.5% moisture regain. It has good
elasticity: 26–40% elongation at breaking
point. It has 100% recovery at 8% elongation.
It has high strength and exceptionally strong
fibre (Gioello 1982).
Polyamide fibres such as nylon 6 and nylon
6.6 have higher moisture absorption rates
and better wicking ability than polyesters but
dry more slowly. They are more expensive
than polyester fibres and the use tends to be
limited to swimwear and cycling clothing or
as reinforcing fibre in blends used for sports
socks. A number of variants of polyamide
fibres are available, for example, anti-
microbial, high-wicking and extra soft
grades (Higgins & Anand 2003).
POLYAMIDE
116. Polypropylene fibres are used increasingly in sportswear
although their percentage share of the market is still quite
small. The fibres have very low moisture absorbency but
excellent wicking ability. As polypropylene does not wet
out, its thermal insulation is retained during and after
strenuous activity. Also polypropylene is a very lightweight
fibre. Fabric made from polypropylene may shrink if
washed at high temperature. This fibre is also relatively
more difficult to finish (Higgins & Anand 2003).
Polypropylene fibre is made by melt-spinning polypropylene.
Polypropylene is obtained by the polymerisation of propylene
monomer. Polypropylene fibre has the small specific gravity of 0.91
and is lightest among synthetic fibres. It possesses high tensile
strength, and its material (propylene) costs are lowest.
Polypropylene drawbacks are being unable to be dyed and being
less heat-resistant, in addition to an insufficient resistance to light.
Polypropylene fibre is relatively environmentally friendly.
Polypropylene fibre hardly generates harmful substances when
burnt because it consistsof only carbon and hydrogen. Recycling is
very easy because its molecular structure is simple. Polypropylene
uses less energy to manufacture than many other synthetic.
117. Acrylic is manufactured fibre in which the fibre-
forming substance is any long-chainsynthetic
polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of
acrylonitrile units. Acrylic is a hydrophobic fibre
with 1–2% moisture regain. It has good elasticity:
25–46% elongation at breaking point. It has 92–99%
recovery at 2% elongation. It has fair strength and is
20% weaker when wet (Gioello 1982).
Acrylic fibres are generally used in sportswear
and active wear in the form of high pile fleece
fabrics. In this application they are crimped,
creating bulky fabrics with good thermal
insulation. They have low water absorbency
but can effectively wick liquid sweat. They are
also light in weight. Their disadvantages are
that they are prone to static build-up and have
a tendency to pill during wear (Higgins &
Anand 2003).
ACRYLIC
118. Synthetic fibre can be modified during manufacture to improve its
thermophysiological and sensory properties. A number of different techniques are
available for producing such fibres, including the following:
• Block copolymers can be added to the base polymer before extrusion.
• Fibres can be extruded with different cross sections.
• Fibres can be coated after treatment (Higgins & Anand 2003).
One of the most common modifications made in order to provide improved
comfort is the use of superfine fibres or microfibres with the filaments having a
linear density wellbelow 1 decitex. The use of these fibres enables very dense
fabrics to be created in which the fibre surface is significantly increased and the
space between the fibre is reduced. This leads to the increase of capillary action
for better thermal regulation
(Higgins & Anand 2003).
119. Specialised polyester fibres have been
developed in order to produce a more
natural handle, to increase absorbency,
to provide better thermal resistance and
to reduce static (Higgins & Anand
2003).
Another technique employed is the introduction of
voids into the core of the fibre. These help to improve
wicking and thermal resistance. One example of such
a fibre,which has been designed specially for
sportswear, is Welkey, produced by Teijin Ltd in
Japan. The fibre has a hollow core and a proliferation
of smaller holes throughout the body of the fibre.
These help to increase capillary action and the
wicking of sweat away from the skin. The increased
number of air spaces inside the fibres also increases
its thermal resistance (Higgins & Anand 2003).
MODIFIED POLYESTER
120. DuPont offers a modified polyester fibre called
CoolMax. This is a four-channel fibre with a cross-
section that resembles a double scallop. CoolMax
has been developed specifically for sportswear. It
offers improved wicking capability and moisture
vapour permeability. DuPont claims that CoolMax
dries significantly more quickly than many other
fabrics used in sportswear (Higgins & Anand
2003).
DuPont has also developed Thermolite for use
under cold weather conditions. Thermolite
fibres are offered in several variants. One of
these is Thermolite Base, which is particularly
suitable for use next to the skin
Novelproperties of Thermolite is a lightweight,
hollow fibre offering more warmth and
bettermoisture control than any other fibre of
the same thickness (Higgins & Anand
2003).
CONTD..
COOLMAX.
THERMOLITE
121. Polyester microfibres are now widely used in sportswear. They
are used in both underwear and outerwear. If treated with a
fluorocarbon finish, fabrics made from polyester microfibres
have a high resistance to water penetration while still remaining
permeable to moisture vapour. Fabrics made from polyester
microfibres also combine improved handle with strength and
durability (Higgins & Anand 2003).
POLYESTER MICROFIBRES
122. Two or more fibres may be blended into a single yarn to improve
the thermophysiology and other properties of the individual
components. Knitted fabric made from polyester/wool blends or
polypropylene/wool blends, for example, can improve wicking and
insulation properties of single fibre in single layer fabrics (Higgins
& Anand 2003).
FIBRE BLENDS
123. Knitted fabric is the most common fabric structure
for the base layer, as it possesses high stretch and
recovery, providing greater freedom of movement,
shape retention and tailored fit. Knitted fabrics also
have relatively uneven surfaces, which make them
feel more comfortable than smooth-surfaced woven
fabrics of similar fibre compositions. This effect
results from the fact that fabric that has uneven
surfaces has less direct contact with the skin
(Higgins & Anand, 2003).
Knitted fabric can be structured as multi-layer knitted fabric.
Multi-layered fabrics, produced by either warp or weft knitting,
have been developed for use in sportswear and active wear. It is
possible to knit a simple two-layer construction, which facilitates
relatively fast removal of sweat from the skin and in which
evaporation remains unhindered by multiple layers of fabric. Such
a fabric might have a structure in which the inner layer is produced
from a textured synthetic filament yarn which is hydrophobic and
has good capillary action while the outer layer is made hydrophilic
yarn that absorbs the wicked moisture and then allows it to
evaporate (Higgins & Anand 2003).
KNITTED FABRIC
124. Research into the design of knitted fabric showed that the double layer fabrics
are an ideal structure. For the doubled layer fabric, it is recommended that the
inner layer, which touches the skin, is made from synthetic materials that have
good moisture transfer properties such as polyester, acrylic, nylon or
polypropylene. For the outer layer, materials that have good moisture
absorption properties such as cotton, wool, viscose or their blends are
recommended. The perspiration built up on the surface of the skin will be
transferred to the outer layer of the fabric by way of the inner surface and
consequently it will be absorbed by the outer surface. When absorptive material
is used as inner layer, skin will have continuous contact with a wet layer and this
feeling of feeling will irritate the wearer (Ceken 2004).
Doubled Layer Fabric
125. FUNCTIONALITY REQUIREMENTS FOR ACTIVE
SPORTSWEAR
The human body has an operating temperature of 37oC, which
it attempts to maintain under varying circumstances. The body
temperature rises during physical activity and can generate heat
that ranges between 100 watts at rest and 1000 watts during
periods of intense physical activity. Thus, it is necessary to
transport heat from the body to the environment so as to
maintain the body temperature at 37oC. The heat transport to
the environment is achieved through a dry flux (conduction,
convection and radiation) and a latent flux produced by
perspiration. The body perspiration vapour and liquid sweat 24
must have the opportunity to pass immediately away from the
skin and possibly to the outer surface of the clothing (Kothari &
Sanyal 2003).
126. According To Ishtiaque (2001) the
predominant requirements of most active
sportswear are:
• PROTECTION : from wind and adverse weather
• INSULATION : protection from cold
•VAPOUR PERMEABILITY: to ensure that body
vapour passes outward through all layers of the
clothing system
• STRETCH: to provide the freedom of movement
necessary in sports
Sportswear is one of the 12 main application
areas defined by Techtextile, the leading
international trade exhibition for technical
textiles (Anand & Horrocks 2000).
CONTD..
127. One interesting example of sportswear designed for a specific application is the
development of Sportwool™ materials. These have been used successfully in a
number of sports and sports clothing applications, including football shirts for
Manchester United Football Club. The fabric used in the Manchester United
football shirt is a two-layered double jersey fabric. The inner layer, worn next
to skin, is made from extra fine Merino wool fibres (less than 20 micron). The
wool fibre is comfortable, has a good water vapour permeability and transfers
heat and moisture from skin to the outer surface which is made from 100%
polyester filament yarn. Heat is able to escape and moisture is allowed to
evaporate, assisted by wind and body movement.
128. Sportswear is a highly innovative field investing heavily in research and
development, pioneering new technologies and concepts, and
furthering performance and comfort. Sportswear design changes at a
faster speed than other clothing categories. Sportswear designs are
influenced by textile innovation, where from a technical point of view,
new textiles allow enhanced performance regarding protection as well
as athletic achievement and at an aesthetic stage (Bramel 2005).
129. Moisture management treatment promotes rapid wicking and
evaporation and provides high added value to sportswear and
casual wear, significantly enhancing the perceived comfort level of
the wearer (Holmer 2007).
Several moisture management finishes have been used to increase
moisture absorbency; the fabric is durable to repeated home
laundering and improves wetting and wicking action. For example,
Resil HJHP is used particularly for increasing moisture absorbency
of polyester fabrics and when combined with resil Nanocelle G6,
can improve the wicking properties of fabrics of all types
(Manickam 2006).
Moisture Management Finishes
130. Moisture management finishes are used not only
to impart hydrophilicity but also to enhance
handle of fabric. A novel moisture management
agent, Ultraphil HCT, is based on a silicone
microemulsion. Ultraphil HCT imparts
hydrophilicity and a very soft handle to cotton,
while the quaternary chemical nature of the
structure results in very high durability to washing
(Holmer 2007).
A new hydrophilic finish, Sandoperm RPU Liquid is a
new thermo-reactive polyurethane for dry fast, very
full and extremely soft handle on cellulosic and
polyamide fibres. Applied with silicone softeners,
Sandoperm RPU Liquid produces a hydrophilic finish,
improving the elasticity/shape recovery of knitted
goods. The Nano-Dry finish from Nano-Tex LLC is a
durable, hydrophilic finish for nylon and polyester. In
the latter fibre polyethylene glycol and amino silicone
in nano-form are claimed to be applied to sportswear
and underwear requiring perspiration absorbency
(Holmer 2007).
131. Microencapsulation technology was utilised in the early 1980s by the
US National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) with the aim
of managing the thermal barrier properties of garments, in particular
for use in space suits. They encapsulated phase-change materials
(PCMs), for example, nonadecane, with the hope of reducing the
impact of extreme variations in temperature encountered by astronauts
during their missions in space. Ultimately the technology was not taken
up within the space program. However, the potential was recognised
and after further development the work was licensed by the inventor,
the Triangle Research and Development Co, to Outlast Technologies, in
Boulder, Colorado. Outlast has exploited the technology in textile fibres
and fabric coatings and PCM capsules are now applied to all manner of
materials particularly outdoor wear (parkas, vests, thermals, snowsuits
and trousers) and in the house in blankets, doonah, mattresses and
pillowcases. As well as being designed to combat cold, textiles
containing PCMs also help to combat overheating, so overall the effect
can be described as thermoregulation (Nelson 2002).
PHASE-CHANGE MATERIALS
132. Determination of thermophysiological comfort properties of the
fabric Liquid moisture transport
The Moisture Management Tester instrument was used to test the liquid solution
transfer and distribution in knitted fabric samples. The principle utilised by the
MMT (Li & Wong 2006) is based on the fact that when moisture travels through a
fabric, the contact of electrical resistance of the fabric will change. The fabric is in
contact with the sensor rings, which determine the liquid content and the liquid
moisture transfer behaviour on the top and bottom surfaces of the fabric. On the
basis of the measured voltage charges, the variation of water content with time
on the fabric’s top and bottom can be quantitatively measured.
133. Sketch of MMT sensors: (a) sensor structure; (b)
measuring rings (Yao et al. 2006)
134. During testing, each fabric specimen, the size of 80 x 80 mm, was placed flat
between
the top and bottom sensors and a predetermined quantity (0.15 g) of the testing
solution was pumped onto the upper surface of the fabric to simulate a drop of
liquid sweat. The signal for electrical resistance of the fabric samples was processed
by the MMT.
All fabrics were tested under the same laboratory conditions. The upper
surface of the fabric is considered the surface closest to the skin of the human body
and the bottom surface of the fabric is the closest to the neighbouring environment.
The parameters (indices) measured were:
Wetting Time, WTt (top surface) and WTb (bottom surface), is the time in which top
and bottom surfaces of the fabric just start to get wet respectively after the test
commences.
Absorption Rate, ARt (top surface) and ARb (bottom surface), is the average moisture
absorption ability of the fabric’s top and bottom surface during the rise of water
content,
respectively.
135. Overall Moisture Management Capability, (OMMC) indicates the overall
capability of the fabric to manage the transport of liquid moisture. The larger
the OMMC is, the higher the overall moisture management capability of the
fabric.
Maximum Wetted Radius, MWRt (top surface) and MWRb (bottom surface), is
defined as maximum wetted ring radius at the top and bottom surfaces.
Spreading Speed, SSt (top surface) and SSb (bottom surface), is the accumulative
spreading speed from the centre of the fabric sample to the maximum wetted
radius.
Accumulative One-Way Transport Index, (AOTI) represents the difference of the
accumulative moisture content between the two surfaces of the fabric and
determines to a large extend whether the fabric has good moisture
management properties. In terms of comfort, it means that the higher the one-
way transport capacity, the quicker and easier the liquid sweat can be
transferred from next to the skin to the outer surface of the fabric, thus keeping
the skin dry.
136. POROSITY
Porosity was determined by measuring the total volume of a fabric and
calculating the
total volume of fibre in the sample. The difference between these two values is
considered as air space and when calculated as a percentage of the total
volume, it gives the porosity (Skinkle 1940).
Porosity was calculated based on the following formula:
P= 100(AT - W/D)/AT
Where;
P = porosity, %
A = area of the sample, m2
W = weight of the sample, g
T = thickness of the sample, cm
D = density of fiber, g/cm3
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in Different Blend Ratios for Winter Active Sportswear a M.Sc.thesis submitted by Wiah
Wardiningsih 2009 in RMIT University, Melbourne
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141. FIBRE
BRAND
FIBRE MANUFACTURER COUNTRY
Terital Zero Polyester micro
fibre
Montefibre Italy
Myoliss Acrylic micro
fibre
Montefibre Italy
Clarino Polyester micro
fibre
Kuraray Japan
Tactel Nylon 6.6 micro
fibre
DuPont US
Belima -X Polyester micro
fibre
Kanebo Japan