Milena Canonero

Vida
Nascida em 01 de janeiro de 1946.
Figurinista italiana.
Estudou arte, história do design e
ﬁgurino em Gênova.
Primeiros trabalhos para teatro e
propaganda na Inglaterra (anos 60).
Conheceu Kubrick no set de 2001: Uma
Odisséia no Espaço e foi convidada por ele
para trabalhar em Laranja Mecânica.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milena_Canonero
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/bio?ref_=nm_ov_bio_sm
Milena Canonero no set de "Barry Lyndon"

Carreira
Indicações ao Oscar (Best Costume Design)
1976 Barry Lyndon (dividido com Ulla-Britt Söderlund)
1982 Chariots of Fire
1986 Out of Africa
1989 Tucker: The Man and His Dream
1991 Dick Tracy
2000 Titus
2002 The Affair of the Necklace
2007 Marie Antoinette
2015 The Grand Budapest Hotel
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Costume_Design
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/awards?ref_=nm_awd
Oscar, 1976 Oscar, 1982 Oscar, 2007 Oscar, 2015

Carreira
Indicações ao British Academy Film
Awards (Best Costume Design)
1976 Barry Lyndon
1982 Chariots of Fire
1986 Cotton Club
1987 Out of Africa
1991 Dick Tracy
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BAFTA_Award_for_Best_Costume_Design
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/awards?ref_=nm_awd
Raffaella Fantasia accept the award on behalf of Milena Canonero (2015)

Carreira
Indicações ao Costume Designers Guild
Awards
Career Achievement Award
2001
Excellence in Contemporary Film
2005 The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou
2005 Ocean's Twelve
Excellence in Period Film
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/awards
Milena Canonero at 2015 Costume Designers Guild Awards

1971 • 1975 • 1977 O Desaparecimento • 1978 OLaranja Mecânica Barry Lyndon
Expresso da Meia-Noite • 1980 • 1981 Carruagens de Fogo • 1983 Fome deO Iluminado
Viver • 1984 Give My Regards to Broad Street • 1984 Cotton Club • 1985 Entre Dois
Amores • 1987 Barﬂy - Condenados Pelo Vício • 1988 Tucker - Um Homem E Seu Sonho
• 1990 Corações Covardes • 1990 Dick Tracy • 1990 O Poderoso Chefão III • 1992 Mulher
Solteira Procura... • 1992 Perdas e Danos • 1994 Só Você • 1994 Segredos do Coração •
1994 Camilla • 1994 A Morte e a Donzela • 1998 Politicamente Incorreto • 1999 •Titus
2001 O Enigma do Colar • 2002 Solaris • 2004 Eros (segment "Equilibrium") • 2004 A
Vida Marinha com Steve Zissou • 2004 Doze Homens e Outro Segredo • 2006 Belle
toujours • 2006 • 2007 Viagem a Darjeeling • 2007 I vicerè • 2010 OMaria Antonieta
Lobisomem • 2010 C'était Marie-Antoinette (TV Movie) • 2011 Deus da Carniﬁcina •
2013 Castello Cavalcanti (Short) • 2014 • 2015 Last SummerO Grande Hotel Budapeste

Carruagens de Fogo Cotton Club
<www.listal.com/list/milena-canonero-italian-artist>

Entre Dois Amores Tucker - Um Homem E Seu Sonho

A Vida Marinha com Steve Zissou O Lobisomem

Laranja Mecânica 1971
Directed by: Stanley Kubrick
Production Design by: John Barry
Art Direction by: Russell Hagg, Peter Sheilds.
Gênero: Ficção científica, Drama, Policial
No futuro, o violento Alex (Malcolm McDowell), líder de uma gangue de delinquentes que matam,
roubam e estupram, cai nas mãos da polícia. Preso, ele recebe a opção de participar em um
programa que pode reduzir o seu tempo na cadeia. Alex vira cobaia de experimentos destinados a
refrear os impulsos destrutivos do ser humano, mas acaba se tornando impotente para lidar com a
violência que o cerca.
<http://www.adorocinema.com/filmes/filme-260/>
<http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066921/fullcredits?ref_=tt_ov_st_sm>

(...) película cheia de dualidades
(...) cuecas usadas por cima das calças, que continham enchimento para, supostamente, aumentar seus
órgãos genitais; simbolizando a sexualidade explícita.
As roupas são, de certa forma, futuristas. Porém, foram inspiradas no pré punk, na estética do fim dos
anos 60, no início dos anos 70 e na cultura do pop art (...) – movimento artístico que usava do
colorido para ironizar a vida materialista. (...) Não podemos nos esquecer também das formas
geométricas.
(...) ar psicodélico
(...) transmitir a atmosfera das contradições e da juventude transviada
<http://fashionatto.literatortura.com/2013/09/04/confira-analise-figurino-iconico-laranja-mecanica/>

The costumes in ''A Clockwork Orange'' were inspired by then-current London street styles. Malcolm
McDowell, the film's star, and his gang of stylized ruffians wore black boots known in England's youth cults
as ''bovver'' - meaning bother - boots. After ''A Clockwork Orange,'' a new cult, Bovver Boys, reviled for
their tendency to cause ''a spot of bovver,'' as in ''Clockwork Orange,'' sprang up in London. Rock musicians
began sporting the film's white pants with suspenders, black bowlers and bovver boots. Young women
in the film wore color-streaked hair, a style that would resurface in punk rock and new wave circles.
<http://www.nytimes.com/1986/02/11/style/milena-canonero-fashion-on-and-off-the-big-screen.html>
Laranja Mecânica supostamente transcorre em um futuro próximo, o que explica a escolha das casas (a do
personagem escritor) e dos edifícios (a prisão) mais modernas, quase futuristas. O filme também é muito
marcado pela estética de fim dos anos 60 e de início dos anos 70, da pop art: cores muito vivas, quadros
psicodélicos, moda pré-punk, música pop e eletrônica.
Antoine de Gaudemar <http://revistacult.uol.com.br/home/2011/10/doc-kubrick/>

Campbell's Soup Cans (1962)
Andy Warhol
Marilyn Silkscreen Prints
Andy Warhol

Barry Lyndon 1975
Production Design by: Ken Adam
Art Direction by: Roy Walker
Costume Design by: Milena Canonero, Ulla-Britt Söderlund
Gênero: Histórico, Aventura, Drama
No século XVIII, Barry (Ryan O'Neal), um aventureiro irlandês, transgride a lei e é obrigado a deixar
sua cidade. Junta-se ao exército para logo em seguida tornar-se espião e traidor. Seu principal
objetivo é chegar até a aristocracia através do casamento. Ele consegue, mas após um breve
período de felicidade, um triste destino o aguarda.

A myth grew that the Academy Award-winning costumes used in the film were genuine antique
clothes, but this is only partly correct. Some of the costumes were genuine antiques bought at auction
by costume designer Milena Canonero, while others were custom-made specifically for the film and
were based on clothing of the period and costumes seen in period paintings.
<http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0072684/trivia>
(...) figurinos absolutamente impecáveis e primorosos em relação à pesquisa, uso de materiais - alguns
tecidos originais do século XVIII ou fabricados e tingidos de acordo com a tecnologia da época
<http://www.ideafixa.com/milena-canonero-e-sua-absoluta-maestria/>

Many of the shots were composed and ﬁlmed
in order to evoke certain eighteenth century
paintings, especially those by Thomas
Gainsborough.
Canonero declares she was inspired by
painting, unveiling her penchant for tableaux-
vivants, and 18th century minor painters: by
Thomas Gainsborough and Joshua Reynolds
for the British atmosphere, by German painters
such as Menzel for the candle-lit scenes. The
resulting costumes are of extraordinary richness.
<http://www.vogue.it/en/encyclo/people/c/milena-canonero>
Mr and Mrs Andrews (about 1750)
Thomas Gainsborough

Captain George K. H.
Coussmaker (1759-1801)
Sir Joshua Reynolds
Gainsborough.

Flute Concert with Frederick the Great in Sanssouci (1850-1852)
Adolph Menzel
Gainsborough.

O Iluminado 1980
Production Design by: Roy Walker
Art Direction by: Leslie Tomkins
Gênero: Terror
Durante o inverno, um homem (Jack Nicholson) é contratado para ficar como vigia em um hotel no
Colorado e vai para lá com a mulher (Shelley Duvall) e seu filho (Danny Lloyd). Porém, o contínuo
isolamento começa a lhe causar problemas mentais sérios e ele vai se tornado cada vez mais
agressivo e perigoso, ao mesmo tempo que seu filho passa a ter visões de acontecimentos
ocorridos no passado, que também foram causados pelo isolamento excessivo.

<http://www.wardrobemalfunctioned.blogspot.com.br/2012/07/normal-0-false-false-false-en-us-ja-x.html>

<http://www.papodecinema.com.br/ﬁlmes/o-iluminado>

Titus 1990
Directed by: Julie Taymor
Production Design by: Dante Ferretti
Art Direction by: Massimo Razzi, Domenico Sica (co-art director), Pier Luigi Basile
(supervising art director).
Gênero: Histórico, Drama
Titus Andronicus (Anthony Hopkins) um bem-sucedido general romano que está de volta sua terra
natal, após várias vitórias sobre os inimigos do Império Romano. Junto consigo traz Tamora (Jessica
Lange), a rainha dos godos, povo inimigo aos romanos, que se torna prisioneira, juntamente com
seus três ﬁlhos. Buscando vingança da morte de 21 de seus 25 ﬁlhos na guerra, Titus decide por
matar em nome de sua honra o primogênito de Tamora. As consequências de tal ato se
desencadearão mais tarde, quando Tamora se tornar a nova rainha do Império Romano.

In Titus, (...) widely divergent epochs are represented throughout the
film, existing side by side without any commentary on why, or how.
<http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0120866/faq?ref_=tt_faq_3#.2.1.7>
Costume, paraphernalia, horses or chariots or cars; these represent
the essence of a character, as opposed to placing it in a specific
time. This is a film that takes place from the year 1 to the year 2000.
Julie Taymor <http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0120866/faq?ref_=tt_faq_3#.2.1.7>
It's retro-contemporary-futuristic. Everything was interpreted,
nothing was exact. It's like a comic strip. It's much easier to do a
movie in a specific period. Here, all the costumes mean something
more than just dress-up. It's a very difficult way of doing a movie.
Milena Canonero <http://articles.latimes.com/2000/mar/26/entertainment/ca-12649>

None of the characters wear green at any point during the ﬁlm. Director Julie Taymor felt that green
suggests safety and comfort and told costume designer Milena Canonero that costumes could only
be colored metallic, red, blue, gray, black or white.
Director Julie Taymor used anachronistic props and clothes throughout the ﬁlm (eg chariots and tanks;
swords and machine guns) because she wanted to symbolically depict 2,000 years of warfare and
violence.
Milena Canonero's costume designs incorporate strains of historical periods ranging from ancient to
modern, evoking past and present associations of historical memory to play further on the
borderline of the real/surreal.
STARKS, Lisa; LEHMANN, Courtney. The Reel Shakespeare: alternative cinema and theory. Cranbury: Rosemont Publishing & Printing Corp., 2002.

During both the off-Broadway production of the play and the shooting of the ﬁlm, director Julie Taymor
used the work of Joel-Peter Witkin as inspiration.
←
Gods of Earth & Heaven (1988)
Joel-Peter Witkin
→
The Birth of Venus (1486)
Botticelli
ⅎⅎⅎⅎ

←
Woman Once a Bird (1990)
Joel-Peter Witkin
→
Le Violon d'Ingres (1924)
Man Ray

←
Las Meniñas (1987)
Joel-Peter Witkin
→
Las Meninas (1656)
Diego Velázquez

Maria Antonieta 2006
Directed by: Soﬁa Coppola
Production Design by: K.K. Barrett
Art Direction by: Pierre du Boisberranger, Anne Seibel
Gênero: Histórico, Biograﬁa, Drama
A princesa austríaca Maria Antonieta (Kirsten Dunst) é enviada ainda adolescente à França para se
casar com o príncipe Luis XVI (Jason Schwartzman), como parte de um acordo entre os países. Na
corte de Versalles ela é envolvida em rígidas regras de etiqueta, ferrenhas disputas familiares e
fofocas insuportáveis, mundo em que nunca se sentiu confortável. Praticamente exilada, decide
criar um universo à parte dentro daquela corte, no qual pode se divertir e aproveitar sua
juventude. Só que, fora das paredes do palácio, a revolução não pode mais esperar para explodir.

(...) a modern and contemporary take on the character of the whimsical Austrian
Canonero’s costumes were mostly based on historical silhouettes, but made with brighter, more modern
colors and lower necklines. Most of the historical inspiration for Canonero’s costumes was reﬂected in colors,
rather than extreme detail or copied style - (...) Canonero designed a blue costume with pink accessories
that was visually inspired by a portrait of Marie Antoinette in a blue dress with pink bows. Canonero also
follows a distinct timeline with her costumes which not only charts Marie Antoinette’s character growth but
reﬂects the changing fashion of the era - from large pannier dresses to simple ‘country’ dresses and beyond.
<http://www.specialcabledeals.com/blog/marie-antoinette-milena-canonero-vs-gilbert-adrian/>
I got to take this counter-age sort of story about a girl who is a fashion victim in a way. She starts out very
young and innocent. But we get to watch her grow through the movie. I started by throwing pieces of
material at Kirsten [Dunst] to see what colors suited her best.
Milena Canonero <http://www.nbcnewyork.com/blogs/threadny/Costume-Designer-Milena-Canonero-Talks-Stanley-Kubrick-Getting-Inspired-By-Macaroons-
124499284.html>

Sofia’s portrait of Marie Antoinette in the film is accurate, but human. To me, Marie
Antoinette was very unlucky. She lacked the right upbringing for such a role. She was the
sweet playful girl of the family. Sofia has grasped the lightness and superficiality of the
young Marie Antoinette, but also the dignity of the woman. She has done it by using
light brush strokes and not too much dialogue.
Milena Canonero <www.colourlovers.com/fashion/blog/2010/12/27/technicolor-fashion-marie-antoinette>
I would get bored when it would get sort of too detailed. I didn’t want to get bogged
down with history, but to focus on the personal relations between these people.
Milena Canonero <http://www.nytimes.com/2006/09/10/movies/moviesspecial/10hohe.html?_r=0
As revealed in the "Making of" documentary on the DVD, the look of Count von Fersen ↑
was influenced by 1980s rock star Adam Ant ↓.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_Antoinette_%282006_film%29>

Sofia [Coppola] gave me a box of macaroons from Ladurée. We looked at
them and the beautiful colors and they became a guideline in a way. We
didn’t do everything based off of them, but they were definitely an inspiration.
Milena Canonero <http://www.nbcnewyork.com/blogs/threadny/Costume-Designer-Milena-Canonero-Talks-
Stanley-Kubrick-Getting-Inspired-By-Macaroons-124499284.html>
[At the start of pre-production, Coppola handed Canonero a box of pastel-
coloured macaroons from the Ladurée pastry house.] She told me ‘These are
the colors I love.’ I used them as a palette. Sofia was clear about the
coloration, but left the rest to me. We squeezed the essence of the period,
without reproducing it. Even if you think you know a lot about it, you always
have to look for a new angle. I simplified the very heavy look of the 18th
century. I wanted it to be believable, but more stylized.
Milena Canonero <http://www.colourlovers.com/fashion/blog/2010/12/27/technicolor-fashion-marie-antoinette>

<http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_ma.shtml>

When Marie-Antoinette is going
through her shoes while preparing for
a big party you see a pair of blue
Converse All Star 1923 Chuck Taylor
basketball shoes for about one and a
half seconds. While these shoes were
deﬁnitely not in existence at the time
of Marie-Antoinette, their inclusion
in the ﬁlm was intentional, to portray
Marie-Antoinette as a typical teenage
girl despite the time she lived in.
<http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0422720/trivia?ref_=tt_ql_2>

Soﬁa Coppola had Spanish footwear designer Manolo
Blahnik create hundreds of specially made shoes for
the ﬁlm.
<http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0422720/trivia?ref_=tt_ql_2>

O Grande Hotel Budapeste 2014
Directed by: Wes Anderson
Production Design by: Adam Stockhausen
Art Direction by: Stephan Gessler (lead art director), Gerald Sullivan (supervising art
director), Steve Summersgill
Gênero: Comédia, Drama, Policial
No período entre as duas guerras mundiais, o famoso gerente de um hotel europeu conhece um
jovem empregado e os dois tornam-se melhores amigos. Entre as aventuras vividas pelos dois,
constam o roubo de um famoso quadro do Renascimento, a batalha pela grande fortuna de
uma família e as transformações históricas durante a primeira metade do século XX.

“We had meetings and also exchanges of ideas and
references not just for the costumes themselves, but
the total look of the principal characters from
head to toe,” she ´[Milena Canonero] says.
Photographers like Man Ray and George Hurrell,
and painters like Gustav Klimt, Kees van Dongen,
Tamara de Lempicka, and George Grosz served as
inspiration points. “One also is stimulated by
looking not only at the real people of that time,
but also at other images and literature that are
unrelated to the period and the setting of the
story,” she says. “The look of each actor has to
have its raison d’être.”
<http://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2014/03/the-grand-budapest-hotel-
fashion>
Man Ray

George Hurrell
fashion>

Egyptienne au
Collier de Perles
(1913)
Kees Van Dongen
fashion>

Kizette On The Balcony
(1927)
Tamara de Lempicka
fashion>

Vor der Kaserne (1918)
George Grosz
fashion>

O desafio não consistiu apenas em recriar
um período histórico, mais especificamente
os anos entre guerras, na fictícia Repúplica
de Zubrowka, onde se desenrola a trama.
Milena precisou imergir no universo muito
particular do diretor Wes Anderson, cuja
preocupação estética atinge um nível de
detalhamento maior a cada novo filme. Para
compor a direção de arte complexa, ela
desenhou as roupas levando em conta não
somente os personagens, como também os
tons do cenário e dos objetos.
<http://www.clicrbs.com.br/pdf/17233258.pdf>

Anderson envisioned Tilda Swinton’s
Madame D, a wealthy art collector nearly
90 years old, as someone who was a fan of
symbolist painter Gustav Klimt. With that
in mind, Canonero printed a Klimt-inspired
pattern for Swinton’s velvet costumes.
<www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/movies/oscars-2015-
costumes-article-1.2121656#>

Um dos vestidos de veludo de Tilda Swinton, que
interpreta uma colecionadora de arte de mais de 80 anos,
tem as cores e desenhos de uma das mais famosas
pinturas do artista, o Retrato de Adele Bloch-Bauer 1.
<http://www.clicrbs.com.br/pdf/17233258.pdf>

Though Edward Norton plays the stern
captain of the Lutz military police, set
in Anderson’s ﬁctional Eastern European
nation called Zubrowka, his style was
arresting. Canonero used her connections
with Fendi to have a gray Astrakhan
coat designed for the character.
<www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/movies/oscars-2015-
costumes-article-1.2121656#>

<www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/wga-awards-winners-list-773595>

Milena Canonero

Recommended

Recommended

More Related Content

What's hot

What's hot (20)

Viewers also liked

Viewers also liked (20)

Similar to Milena Canonero

Similar to Milena Canonero (20)

Recently uploaded

Recently uploaded (20)

Milena Canonero