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20th   ANNIVERSARY
       ISSUE

          A
ER - IS
                                                 INT        L
                                             T
 Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island
                                                                                               CONTENTS




                                                              AN
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               Ferry Service




                                T RA
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                                        INT         L
                                    T




                                                                L
                                          SP                                                                        Welcome                                                                                   5




                                                    A
                               T&




                                                     ND
                                                      O




                                        N
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                                              TATION C




                                                              .
                                                        LTD
                               TR
                                SP                                                                                  Your T&T directory                                                                  118




                               AN
                                  OR        O
                                    TATION C




                                                    .
                                                                                                                    Calendar 2011                           16       T&T in brief                              7
                                                                                                                    History                                 15       Travel tips                              11


                                                                                                                    Discover Trinidad                                                                        20
                                                                                                                    Accommodation                           22       Environment                              53
                                                                                                                    Arts & entertainment                    31       Festivals                                59
                                                                                                                    Beaches                                 36       Nightlife                                63
                                                                                                                    Business                                40       Shopping                                 67
                                                                                                                    Carnival                                44       Sightseeing                              71
                                                                    Production team
                                                                                                                    Eating out                              49       Sports                                   78
                                                                    Editors Caroline Taylor, Jeremy Taylor
                                                                    Design and *photography Aisha
                                                                    Provoteaux, Ariann Thompson
                                                                    * except where otherwise credited
                                                                                                                    Discover Tobago                                                                          82
                                                                    Sales Denise Chin, Jacqueline Smith
                                                                    Writers Jason Arthur, Laura Dowrich-
                                                                    Phillips, Judy Raymond, Caroline
                                                                    Taylor, Ariann Thompson
                                                                    Editorial assistant Mirissa De Four
                                                                    Production Joanne Mendes,


                       Quality Service
                                                                    Jacqueline Smith
                                                                    Cover photo by Ariann Thompson
                                                                    Printed by The Office Authority




Family                                                              A publication of Media & Editorial
                                                                    Projects Ltd. (MEP), 6 Prospect
                                                                                                                    Accommodation                           86       Festivals                               102
                                                                    Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain,                 Arts & entertainment                    89       Shopping                                106
                                                                    Trinidad & Tobago
                                                                                                                    Beaches                                 92       Sightseeing                             109
                                                                    T: (868) 622-3821 • F: (868) 628-0639
                                                                    • E: info@discovertnt.com                       Eating out                              96       Sports                                  114
                                                                    • W: www.discovertnt.com
                                                                                                                    Eco-adventure                           98
                                                                    And connect with us online on:
                                                                    • Facebook
                                                                    www.facebook.com/discovertnt
                                                                                                                    Reference                                                                           118
                                                                    • Twitter
                                                                    www.twitter.com/meppublishers
                                                                                                                    Discover the other                    136            San Fernando                        130
                                                                    • Blog:
                                                                    http://meppublishers.blogspot.com               Maps                                                 Scarborough                         133
                                                                                                                        Central Trinidad                  128            South Trinidad                      132
                                                                    © 2011 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP)
                                                                    Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this           Northeast Trinidad                127            Tobago                              134

                            Vacation
                                                                    publication may be reproduced in any
                                                                                                                        Northwest Trinidad                126            Trinidad                            122
                                                                    form whatsoever without the prior written
                                                                    consent of the publisher.                           Port of Spain                     124        Service directory                       118

                                                                    ABOVE LEFT: Clear-water pool, Asa Wright Nature Centre, Trinidad ABOVE RIGHT: Barbados Bay, Tobago, where a fresh fish market operates
                                                                    Monday – Saturday                                                                                                                          1
WELCOME!
     Thank you for choosing Trinidad & Tobago. And thank you for
      choosing Discover Trinidad & Tobago to show you around.

We will cover as much as we can in these few         national and international writers, photographers,
short pages, and share some of our favourite         editors, and designers.
places and pastimes. They are so different,
these two small Caribbean islands near the           Discover online
coast of South America. Trinidad has the cultural    We have also amassed an archive of invaluable
energy, the buzz, the instinct for satire and        material on T&T from these outstanding
celebration; it is resource-rich with oil and gas,   contributors, who know this country and care
and environmentally rich too, as any naturalist      about getting things right. You can see all of
will tell you. Tobago meanwhile is legendary for     it on our new website, www.discovertnt.com,
its peace and calm, its glorious beaches, its        where we hope you will find everything you need
affection for the old-time ways.                     to explore every aspect of T&T life
                                                     and culture.
Four sections
To help you explore these two contrasting
islands, we have divided this book into four               Trinidad &
sections. The first (pages 1 – 19) provides             Tobago’s tourism               sTAndArds
basic practical information common to                   authorities run an             & fEEdbAck
both Tobago and Trinidad — money matters,               annual inspection
transport, headline events. The second                  programme
(pages 20 – 78) explores Trinidad, the larger           called Trinidad &
island, with different areas of interest arranged       Tobago Tourism Industry
alphabetically, from Accommodation to Sports.           Certification (TTTIC). A special logo
                                                        is used to indicate approval. Current
The third section (pages 79 – 123) does the             information can be found at www.
same for Tobago. The final section (pages 114           gotrinidadandtobago.com.
– 132) contains maps of both islands and their              Advertising in Discover is open
biggest cities and towns. Here you will also            to anybody, but publication of
find a Service Directory, listing our advertising       an advertisement does not imply
partners, who are more than ready to help               editorial or official endorsement,
you with any aspect of your visit; and finally a        quality assurance, or participation in
page encouraging you not to leave Trinidad &            the TTTIC programme.
Tobago without seeing both islands.                        Every effort has been made to ensure
                                                        that information is correct at press time.
our 20th anniversary                                    But things in T&T change swiftly,
With this edition, Discover Trinidad & Tobago           and we make no guarantees about
celebrates 20 years of publication. It is the only      information presented. If you have
local guide to have published for so long, year         any suggestions or queries, we would
in, year out. In that time we’ve produced 22            be delighted to hear from you: we take
editions, become the most sustainably produced          all feedback seriously.
local guide, and worked with some of the finest

                                                       2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E wElcomE   5
T&T IN BRIEF
Quick facts
airports: Crown Point International Airport,                    (1,864 sq miles) or 105x80km (65x50 miles)
Tobago (10km/7 miles from Scarborough);
Piarco International Airport, Trinidad (27km/17                 time zone: GMT -4, EST +1
miles from Port of Spain)
                                                                Government:
climate: tropical. Dry season January – May,                    • system: parliamentary democracy
wet June – December (islands just south of the                  • ruling party: the People’s Partnership
normal hurricane belt). Temperature range 72 –                  • prime minister: Kamla Persad-Bissessar
95°F (22 – 35°C); average 83°F (29°C)                           • president: George Maxwell Richards
                                                                • opposition party: People’s National
highest point: Trinidad’s El Cerro del Aripo                    Movement
(940m/3,085ft); Tobago’s Main Ridge
(549m/1,860ft)                                                  language: English (official)


location: 11°N, 61°W. Trinidad and Tobago                       Population: 1.2 million (July 2010):
33km (21 miles) apart, 10km (7 miles) from                      40% Indian, 37.5% African, 21.7% mixed.
Venezuelan coast                                                50,000 (primarily African descent) in Tobago


size: Tobago 300km2 (116 sq miles) or                           religion: Roman Catholic 26%, other Christian
48x16km (30x10 miles). Trinidad 4,828km2                        31.6%, Hindu 22.5%, Muslim 5.8%

A yellow poui tree in the Queen’s Park Savannah (Nisha Kong)




capital: the national capital is Port of Spain, above (pop 45,000, 270,000 metropolitan).
Tobago’s capital is Scarborough (pop 17,000)


                                                               2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T&T In brIEf   7
PUblIc wI-fI
                                                                                                                                                                              ArEAs
                                                                       Media and communications
                                                                                                                                                                Piarco
                                                                       country phone code: +868                        Press: three daily national              Airport;
                                                                                                                       newspapers (Express,                     Rituals coffee shops
                                                                       mail: TTPost (national mail                     Guardian, Newsday), seven                (nationwide); Sweet
                                                                       service); plus FedEx, DHL,                      weeklies (including Tobago               Lime Restaurant
                                                                       UPS and others                                  News), one tri-weekly                    (Woodbrook); Trincity
                                                                                                                                                                Mall (food court); and
                                                                       landline telephone:                             radio: 37 FM stations; two               a growing number of
                                                                       Telecommunications Services                     AM stations                              other locations
                                                                       of Trinidad & Tobago
                                                                       (TSTT) and FLOW. Prepaid                        Television: 12 local stations,
                                                                       international phone cards                       five free-to-air (NCC-4, CCN
                                                                       available                                       TV6, Gayelle, CNC3 and
                                                                                                                       C-TV), seven available only
                                                                       mobile telephone: bmobile                       via cable (ACTS, IBN, ieTV,
                                                                       (TSTT) and Digicel operate on                   Parliament Channel, Synergy,          Practicalities
                                                                       GSM networks; prepaid SIM                       Tobago Channel 5, Win-TV);
                                                                       cards available for unlocked                    some only available on one            currency: Trinidad and
                                                                       phones                                          island                                Tobago dollar (TT$);
                                                                                                                                                             US$1=TT$6.30


                                                                                                                                                             driving: on the left. Trinidad
                                                                                                                                                             speed limits 80kph (50mph) on
                                                                                                                                                             highways and 55kph (34mph)
                                                                                                                                                             in settled areas; 50kph
                                                                                                                                                             (32mph) in Tobago. Seatbelts
                                                                                                                                                             required. Visitors can drive up
                                                                                                                                                             to 90 days on valid foreign/
                                                                                                                                                             international licence
Caribbean Airlines and Air Jamaica offer the best value
and the best travel experience. Come... fly with us.
                                                                                                                                                             Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz
Caribbean Airlines
Antigua • Barbados • Caracas • Guyana • Jamaica • New York/JFK
                                                                                                                                                             money: ABMs (ATMs), credit/
South Florida • St. Maarten • Suriname • Toronto • Trinidad & Tobago
Air Jamaica                                                                                                                                                  debit cards and travellers’
Fort Lauderdale • Grenada • Kingston • Montego Bay                                                                                                           cheques in general use
Nassau • New York/JFK • Philadelphia • Toronto
                                                                                                                                                             Taxes: 10% room tax + 10%
                                                                                                                                                             service at hotels; VAT 15% on
                                                                                                                                                             goods and services


                                                                                                                                                             water: tap water safe to drink
                                                                                                                                                             (boil to be extra safe)
                                                                       Scarlet ibis among the mangrove at Caroni Swamp (Maria Huggins)

                                                                                                                                               2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T&T In
                                                                                                                                                                                               9
                                                                                                                                                                                    brIEf
TRAvEL TIPS
     how to reach Trinidad & Tobago                                               how to move
                                                                                  around in T&T
     by air: scheduled flights are operated by Aeropostal, American
     Airlines, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, Condor, Continental,          To and from the airports:
     Copa, LIAT, Monarch, Spirit, Suriname Airways, and Virgin                    authorised taxis operate
     Atlantic. Others offer charter flights                                       outside arrivals halls at Piarco
                                                                                  and Crown Point airports;
     by sea: the peak cruise ship season is November – April,                     check the approved rates (on
     with visits from Fred Olsen, Holland America, Ocean Village,                 display at the taxi stands)
     Princess, Saga Travel, Seabourn, and Windstar lines
                                                                                  Private taxis: have to be
     on arrival: you need a passport valid for three months beyond                summoned by phone (check
     your intended stay. Non-residents need documentation of                      Yellow Pages)
     return or onward travel and a valid local address. Visas are
     generally not required for visits up to 30 days. For yacht arrivals,         car rental: local and
     clearance certificate from the last port of call and the vessel’s            international companies have
     registration certificate (or authorisation for use) are required             offices at the airports




     water taxi: a regular water taxi service (above) links Port of Spain with San Fernando. The journey
     time is around 45 minutes and the one-way fare TT$15. The service is operated by the National
     Infrastructure Development Company (623-0310, nidco.co.tt). At press time, four new vessels had
     joined the operation; there was discussion about adding new stops (Chaguanas, Point Fortin) and
     new routes (to Venezuela and nearby islands), and the need to increase the fare to TT$20 — check
     discovertnt.com for updated information.


10                                                         2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s   11
Tour operators: see directory     Fleets of privately operated,         PUblIc TAXIs
                     on pages 118 – 21                 unscheduled maxi-taxis (12 –
                     buses: operate from hubs in       25 seat small vans or mini-
                     Port of Spain (City Gate, on      buses) and route taxis (ordinary
                     South Quay), Chaguanas, and       cars) operate specific routes, picking
                     King’s Wharf, San Fernando        up passengers and dropping them off by request.
                     to most of Trinidad; and from     Maxi-taxis have coloured stripes to indicate the area
                     Sangster’s Hill, Scarborough,     they serve. Legal, registered taxis have licence plates
                     to most parts of Tobago.          beginning with h and are unmetered, so confirm the
                     Many are new, articulated,        fare in advance.
                     air-conditioned vehicles. Fares
                     are low; schedules can be         Public taxis operate from different stands depending
                     checked at ptsc.co.tt             on the route they take:


                     Inter-island ferries: see         Port of Spain to:                 Route taxi stand:
                     page 136                          Cascade                           Charlotte and Prince Streets
                                                       Chaguanas                         Broadway and Independence
                                                                                         Square
                                                       Curepe – Sangre Grande            lower Henry Street


     republic bank
                                                       Diego Martin/Petit Valley         South Quay and Abercromby
                                                                                         Street
                     how to contact...                 Maraval                           Duke and Charlotte Streets
                                                       San Fernando                      Broadway and Independence
                     division of Tourism,                                                Square
                     Tobago: 639-2125,                 San Juan                          lower Charlotte Street
                     visittobago.gov.tt                St Ann’s/St James                 Hart Street
                     Immigration division: 625-        Wrightson Road                    lower Chacon Street
                     3571 (Trinidad), 639-2681         Long Circular Road                lower Chacon Street
                     (Tobago), immigration.gov.tt      Chaguaramas                       Park and St Vincent Streets
                     Tobago House of Assembly:
                     639-3421, tha.gov.tt              Chaguanas to:
                     Tourism development               Couva & nearby towns              higher Southern Main Road
                     company: 675-7034, tdc.           Curepe                            Chaguanas Main Road
                     co.tt, gotrinidadandtobago.       Port of Spain                     lower Southern Main Road
                     com
                     Tourist information offices:      San Fernando to:
                     639-0509 (Crown Point             All areas                         see map, page 130
                     Airport); 635-0934 (Cruise
                     Ship Complex, Tobago); 669-       Scarborough to:
                     5196 (Piarco Airport)             All areas                         Carrington Street
                     Trinidad & Tobago
                     government online:
                     ttconnect.gov.tt


12                                                                     2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s   13
hISTORY
maxi-taxis: depart from City Gate on South Quay, or from the
corner of South Quay and Wrightson Road, in Port of Spain;                        PrEcAUTIons
in San Fernando from Queen Street or St James Street; and in
Tobago from lower Scarborough opposite the port.


Colour         Route                                                            like much of the world,    Pre-Columbian times
Black          San Fernando – Princes Town, connections to Mayaro               the islands are affected   Both islands settled by Amerindian tribes migrating northwards from the South American mainland from
Blue           Tobago                                                           by crime, particularly     around 5,000 BC
Brown          San Fernando – La Romaine – Siparia – Point Fortin               Trinidad.
Green          Port of Spain – Chaguanas – San Fernando
Red            Port of Spain – Arima, connections to                                 Always: drive with    Separate colonies
               Blanchisseuse/Matelot                                            extreme care ... leave     tobago                                                  trinidad
Yellow         Port of Spain – Diego Martin – Chaguaramas                       valuables at home          1498           On his third voyage, Columbus            1498           Columbus lands in Trinidad, naming
                                                                                or well concealed ...                     sights Tobago and calls it Magdalena                    it after the Trinity
                                                                                walk in company ...        1627 – 1650 Various attempts at European                1498 – 1797 Neglected Spanish colony;
Emergency numbers                                                               lock your vehicle ...                     settlement                                              Amerindians decimated
                                                                                lock your room/house       1768           Tobago Assembly established              late 18c       French Catholic planters arrive;
Ambulance (public                              fire: 990                        door ... close windows     1672 – 1781 British, Dutch, French jostling for                        Africans imported as slaves
hospitals): 811                                Hyperbaric medical facility:     at night or if you are                    control                                  1797           British colony
crime stoppers: 800-TIPS,                      660-4369 (Roxborough,            going out ... be aware     1781           French sugar colony                      1838           End of slavery
crimestopperstt.com                            Tobago)                          of your surroundings       1814           British sugar colony                     1845 – 1917 144,000 indentured labourers
Ems (emergency medical                         Office of Disaster               ... raise an alarm and     1838           End of slavery                                          imported from India
services): 624-4343 (north                     Preparedness: 640-1285           head to the nearest        1889           Under Trinidad control;                  1858           British start trying to suppress
Trinidad), 653-4343 (south/                    (Trinidad), 660-7489 (Tobago)    police station if you                     Assembly disbanded                                      Carnival
central Trinidad), 639-4444                    Police: 999 or 555 (Trinidad);   suspect you are being
(Tobago)                                       639-2520/5590 (Tobago)           followed

                                                                                     never: venture        A single nation
                                                                                into deserted or
Sustainable travel                                                              unfamiliar areas alone
                                                                                                           under British rule
                                                                                                           1898           Tobago fully merged with Trinidad
Both climate change and globalisation can hit developing island                 ... wear extravagant       1903           “Water Riots” in Port of Spain, Red House burned down
nations particularly hard. Here’s what you can do to safeguard the              jewellery ... leave        1925           First national elections, with limited franchise
islands’ natural and cultural treasures:                                        handbags or wallets        1937           Oilfield and labour strikes
                                                                                lying around ... use       1945           Universal adult suffrage
buy local: buy local CDs, books and DVDs from authorised                        an ABM if you sense        1945           Public emergence of steelbands
retailers (not pirated copies); and purchase locally produced food              someone suspicious         1956           Internal self-government
and souvenirs (not made from endangered species)                                nearby (if your card
                                                                                gets stuck, call the
fly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon                    bank immediately)          Independence
dioxide emissions from your flight                                              ... leave valuables in     1962           Independence from Britain
                                                                                your car ... leave car     1970           “Black Power” uprising
mind your gas: choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs                   windows down when          1976           Republic within the Commonwealth
when renting (or buying) a car; drive within the speed limit; don’t             stopping, especially       1980           Tobago House of Assembly restored
let your car idle; keep your tyres inflated; try to carpool; and when           at night ... engage in     1990           Unsuccessful coup attempt by Afro-Islamist Jamaat al-Muslimeen
you can, walk or cycle                                                          any altercations with      2010           Most recent general election
                                                                                strangers
14      T r A V E l T I P s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M                                                                                                               2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E HIsTorY   15
CALENDAR 2011                                                                                 APRIL
                                                                                                    A month for music: Pan
                                                                                                    Jazz in de Yard (Trinidad) •
                                                                                                                                    Trinidad) • Maypole Festival
                                                                                                                                    (Tobago) • Rapsofest: the
                                                                                                                                    Power of the Oral Traditions •
                                                                                                                                                                                    29th, in honour of St Peter,
                                                                                                                                                                                    patron saint of fishermen
                                                                                                                                                                                    • and trade unionists rally
                                                                                                    Jazz Artists on the Greens      Harvest festivals in Tobago                     their members in Fyzabad,
                                                                                                    (Pigeon Point, Tobago) •        (Whim, Delaford, Belle                          south Trinidad, on Labour
                                                                                                    Tobago Jazz Experience          Garden and Mason Hall)                          Day (public holiday, 19th) in
                                                                                                    and Jazz on the Beach                                                           memory of past battles
                                                                                                    (Tobago) • Pan in the 21st           JUNE
                                                                                                    Century (Trinidad)              A heavy emphasis on                             Also: WeBeat Festival (St
                                                                                                                                    commemoration this                              James, Trinidad) • Harvest
                                                                                                    Also: the long Easter           month: young Tobagonians                        festivals in Tobago (Lambeau,
                                                                                                    weekend, with public            celebrate island traditions                     Bloody Bay and Roxborough
                                                                                                    holidays on Friday 22 and       with the Junior Tobago
                                                                                                    Monday 25: horse-racing         Heritage Festival • Hindus                           JULY
                                                                                                    at the Santa Rosa track in      remember India’s sacred                         Tobago’s month: Tobago
                                                                                                    Arima (Trinidad), goat and      River Ganges with the                           Heritage Festival • Great
                                                                                                    crab races in Mt Pleasant       Ganga Dhaara River                              Fête Weekend • Prime
                                                                                                    (Monday) and Buccoo             Festival (Blanchisseuse,                        Minister’s Charity Golf
                                                                                                    (Tuesday) • Point Fortin        Trinidad) • Christians                          Classic • Charlotteville
                                                                                                    Borough Day: a week of          mark Corpus Christi (3rd,                       Fisherman’s Fest • South
                                                                                                    J’Ouvert, mas, pan and          a public holiday) and the                       Caribbean Open Golf
                                                                                                    parties • Trade & Investment    Fishermen’s Fest on the                         Tournament • Tobago
                                                                                                    Convention (Trinidad) •
                                                                                                    Goodwood harvest festival
     JANUARY                                            MARCH                                       (Tobago) • T&T Literary
The Carnival season begins. During                   Carnival reaches its climax on Monday 7        Festival
the month, the parties and panyards, the             and Tuesday 8, after a week of big shows
entertainers and mas camps get under way             (Soca Monarch, Panorama, Dimanche Gras),          MAY
in earnest                                           and is followed by cool-downs at beaches       A month of food and
                                                     and at Argyle Falls, Tobago                    fashion: Taste Trinidad
Also: New Year’s Day (public holiday) •                                                             & Tobago celebrates the
Sailing and cricket seasons begin • Tobago           In sport: Trinidad & Tobago Golf Open •        islands’ culinary skills •
Carnival Caravan • Harvest festivals in              Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament   Tobago stages its Culinary
Tobago (Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring                                                               Festival • Trinidad &
Garden, Plymouth, Mt Pleasant)                       Also: Chinese New Year on the 3rd (the         Tobago Fashion Week
                                                     year of the Rabbit) • Jazz Artists on the
     FEBRUARY                                        Greens • Hindu spring festival of Phagwa       Also: a public holiday for
The Carnival season – a long one this year           (Holi) • Turtle nesting season begins •        Indian Arrival Day on the
– is in top gear                                     Public holiday on the 30th for Spiritual       30th, celebrating the arrival
                                                     “Shouter” Baptist Liberation Day,              of the first Indians in 1845
Also: Tobago Carnival Caravan • Tobago               commemorating the end of the colonial ban      • Beacon Cycling Series •
Carnival Regatta (Tobago) • Harvest                  on the “Shouter” Baptist faith • Harvest       Rainbow Cup International
                                                                                                                                    OPPOSITE PAGE: Soca celebrity Machel Montano charms the kids at the children’s concert “Boy
festivals in Tobago (Hope, Adelphi, Buccoo,          festivals in Tobago (Mt St George, Mason       Triathlon (Tobago) • La
                                                                                                                                    Boy and the Magic Drum” ABOVE: Black Rock Performers folk dancer representing “A Queen of
Franklyn, Bon Accord)                                Hall, Roxborough, Bon Accord)                  Divina Pastora (Siparia,        Spirit” (CaféMoka)




16    C A L E N D A R D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M                                                                                                            2 0 T H a n n i v e r s a ry i s s u e CALENDAR               17
The Hindu festival of Ganga Dharaa honours the environment and Mother Ganga (Martin Farinha)

                                                                                               in Castara and Black Rock                  the start of the season                     (Trinidad) • National Tourism
                                                                                                                                          for parang, Spanish-                        Week • Harvest festival in
                                                                                               Also: Jazz on the Hill                     flavoured music, which will                 Patience Hill, Tobago
                                                                                               (Trinidad) • Soca for                      run straight through till
                                                                                               Summer and other big                       Christmas                                       noVEmbEr
                                                                                               concerts featuring local                                                               Pan is Beautiful in
                                                                                               and international stars •                  Also: the Eid-ul-Fitr holiday               Trinidad, the Scarborough
                                                                                               Steelband Music Festival                   marking the end of the Muslim               Cup Golf Tournament
                                                                                               (Trinidad) • Tourism                       fasting month of Ramadan •                  and Christmas Caravan in
                                                                                               Adventure Park/T&T Road                    Republic Day (24th, public                  Tobago
                                                                                               Trip: displays, tours, and live            holiday) marks the country’s
                                                                                               entertainment                              transition into a republic in               Also: Best Village
                                                                                                                                          1976 • International Open                   competition finals • Harvest
                                                                                                   AUGUsT                                 Water Swim • Horse-racing                   festivals in Plymouth, Black
                                                                                               A month of nationalist                     classics in Arima: Royal Oak                Rock, Les Coteaux, Moriah,
                                                                                               feeling: Emancipation Day                  Derby, Santa Rosa Oaks                      Scarborough, Montgomery
                                                                                               (1st, a public holiday) marks              and Caribbean Champion                      (Tobago)
                                                                                               the end of slavery in 1838;                Stakes (Trinidad) • Panyard
                                                                                               Independence Day (31st,                    Sensations • San Fernando                       dEcEmbEr
                                                                                               a public holiday) marks                    Jazz Festival (Trinidad)                    Christmas (public holiday,
                                                                                               independence from Britain                  • Tobago Fest: parties,                     25th) dominates everything,
                                                                                                                                          street parade and J’Ouvert                  followed immediately by
                                                                                               Also: the Carib Great                      • Tobago International                      Boxing Day (public holiday,
                                                                                               Race for powerboats, from                  Gospel Festival • Turtle-                   26th) with its horse-racing
                                                                                               Trinidad to Tobago) • Arima                watching season ends                        and parties, as minds turn to
                                                                                               Borough Day: J’Ouvert,                                                                 next year’s Carnival
                                                                                               steelpan, calypso and parties                  ocTobEr
                                                                                               • Best Village Competition                 Staging of the hindu                        Also: Paramin Parang
                                                                                               begins, and runs through                   epic Ramleela prepares                      Festival (Trinidad) • the
                                                                                               November • Muhtadi                         the way for the festival of                 Muslim festival of Hosay
                                                                                               International Drumming                     Divali (public holiday, late                (Trinidad) • on Assembly
                                                                                               Festival in Tobago • Osun                  October/early November)                     Day, the Tobago House
                                                                                               River Festival • Castara                   and its thousands of                        of Assembly celebrates
                                                                                               Fisherman’s Fête (Tobago)                  flickering deyas                            and rewards Tobagonians’
                                                                                               • Santa Rosa Festival                                                                  achievements, with
                                                                                               (Arima) • Harvest festival in              Also: Steelpan & Jazz                       exhibitions, sports and
                                                                                               Speyside, Tobago                           Festival (Trinidad) • Coast-                recreation • Tobago Flying
                                                                                                                                          2-Coast Adventure Race                      Colours (kite-flying festival in
                                                                                                   sEPTEmbEr                              (Trinidad) • Amerindian                     Plymouth).
                                                                                               Towards the end of the                     Heritage Day, Arima • Blue
                                                                                               month come the ambitious                   Food Festival (Tobago) •                    Many dates are set shortly before
                                                                                               T&T Film Festival and                      European Film Festival                      the event, and are always subject to



                                                                                               change or cancellation. For more, see our Festivals sections under each island, and visit us online at www.discovertnt.com.




18                                                                                                                                                                                                                        19
Cruise ships docked in Port of Spain for a Commonwealth
Heads of Government Meeting (Keown Thomas)




                                                          TRINIDAD




20                                                                   21
ACCOMMODATION                                                                                                      The business
                                                                                                                   traveller
 A weekend conference, a Carnival adventure, a search for the blue-                                                Business hotels in Trinidad can
 crowned motmot... Trinidad’s visitors have their needs and budgets,                                               be grand or simply practical,
    and the island’s accommodation stock can cater for them all.                                                   but they provide what the
                                                                                                                   businessman needs and
                                                                                                                   expects. Several of the major
                                                                                                                   brands have properties in and
                                                                                                                   around Port of Spain (Crowne       The eco-adventurer
                                                                                                                   Plaza, Hilton, Holiday Inn,
                                                                                                                   Hyatt, Marriott), and there are    The eco-visitors and nature enthusiasts, both scientific and
                                                                                                                   some popular independent           amateur, on the other hand, get out of town quickly and head
                                                                                                                   properties like the Kapok. There   for the hills and the forests. A few properties cater especially
                                                                                                                   is plenty of flexible conference   for those interested in the island’s flora and fauna, its wetlands,
                                                                                                                   and meeting space in the city,     its nesting turtles, and above all its magnificent variety of birds.
                                                                                                                   and a recently established         Accommodation is usually close by, but is in limited supply: it
                                                                                                                   conference bureau. Excellent       includes the world-famous Asa Wright Nature Centre in the hills
                                                                                                                   hotels and facilities are part     above Arima.
                                                                                                                   of the reason why Trinidad
                                                                                                                   continues to be the business       For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit

                                                                                                                   centre of the region.              us online at discovertnt.com.




  AVAIlAbIlITY
    & PrIcEs                                                    The vacationer
                         hotel rooms
                         average                                City, coast or mountain? Port of Spain is not
                       uS$125 a night,                          the best base for a sun-and-sand holiday (the
                    guesthouses $65;                            famous Maracas Bay is more than half an hour’s
     but discounted rates and packages                          drive); its visitors are after the excitement of
     are often available. however, peak                         its music, partying, bars and nightspots, its
     season is December – April, and                            flamboyance and its general “buzz”. Luxury
     rates increase dramatically around                         seekers gravitate to the large hotels with
     Carnival time when droves of                               their world-class spas and entertainment;
     expatriates and tourists flock to                          adventurers and budget travellers stay at the
     Trinidad. Book as far in advance as                        smaller hotels, guesthouses, and bed-and-
     you can.                                                   breakfast properties. Beyond the city, the north
                                                                and northeast coasts supply most of the beach
ABOVE: Anise Resort & Spa, Sans Souci                           properties, smart or rustic.


22     A c c o m m o d A T I o n D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M                                                                                                        2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A c c o m m o d AT I o n   23
ARTS &
                                 ENTERTAINMENT
                                                 The small size of the local arts scene means that
                                                  many artists are part-time semi-professionals.
                                             But there’s certainly no shortage of vibrancy or creativity.




                                                                                                                                  T
                                                                                                                                                       RINIDAD
                                                                                                                                                 artists draw
                                                                                                                                                 on the
                                                                                                                                                 classical and
                                                                                                                                                 folk
                                                                                                                                  traditions of Europe, Africa
                                                                                                                                  and India, combining them
                                                                                                                                  in original ways or adding
Email: info@aliciashouse.com
website: www.aliciashouse.com                                                                                                     a creole touch to create new
                                                                                                                                  forms that are distinctly
                                                                                                                                  Trinidadian.

                                                                                                                                  With limited audiences,
                                                                                                                                  events often have short
                                                                                                                                  runs, so if you blink you’ll
                                                                                                                                  miss them. Keep a close eye
                                                                                                                                  on ads and announcements
                                                                                                                                  in the local media and
                                                                                                                                  especially online. Facebook
                                                                                                                                  has become one of the
                                                                                                                                  most reliable sources for
                                                                                                                                  information about current
                                                                                                                                  arts and cultural events.
                                                                                                                                  Most of the work not
                                                                                                                                  directly related to the
                                                                                                                                  Carnival arts closes down
                                                                                                                                  after Christmas, when
                                                                                                                                  Carnival shows and parties
                                                                                                                                  take over, and resumes by
                                                                                                                                  Easter. Around September,
                                Signal Hill Alumni Choir performing at their 25th anniversary concert at Queen’s Hall
                                (Keown Thomas)




                                                                                           2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T   31
look out for performances                                                                                        on THE
of Ramleela, an epic                        Books                                                                frInGE               Alice Yard (aliceyard.blogspot.com)
                                                                                                                                                                                          Film
adaptation of the Ramayana                                                                                                            in Woodbrook is the backyard of a
enacted by villagers at                     Monique Roffey and Amanda Smyth are among local writers                                  house that once belonged to architect                The two-week annual Trinidad
open-air venues, mostly in                  who have published internationally successful books recently:                        Sean Leonard’s great-grandmother.                        & Tobago Film Festival in
central Trinidad.                           Roffey’s novel White Woman on a Green Bicycle was shortlisted                    Now it hosts performances and installations                  September screens local,
                                            for the 2010 Orange Prize. Both visited Port of Spain to launch      by local and visiting artists who work in the visual                     regional and international
Activity is typically                       their books.                                                         media, dance, music, and literature. Recently it’s been                  films at MovieTowne and
concentrated in or near                                                                                          the site of a pop-up store selling clothes and bags                      other venues. Trinidadian
Port of Spain, with music                   Book launches, readings and lectures take place at the National      designed by Robert Young of The Cloth.                                   filmmakers Horace Ové, Yao
and theatre taking place in                 Library, UWI, the University of Trinidad & Tobago, the National                                                                               Ramesar, and Frances-Anne
venues from Chaguaramas,                    Museum, and at bookstores. The biggest names in local                Erotic Art Week, in mid-year, features painting,                         Solomon have had notable
west of the capital, to                     literature are Nobel laureates VS Naipaul and Derek Walcott, but     drawing, photography, readings and cellphone films,                      releases in the last few years.
the university of the                       there are many more.                                                 among other things. The organisers say it’s “open to
West Indies (uWI) in the                                                                                         any contemporary artistic exploration of our erotic                      Most Thursday nights there are
east. But San Fernando                      Look for fiction and plays from Lisa Allen-Agostini, Tony Hall,      ethos”. It’s staged simultaneously at venues that                        free showings of art films at
has its own arts scene,                     Earl Lovelace, Ian McDonald, VS Naipaul, Elizabeth Nunez, Sam        include a rumshop, a wine bar, and the offices of an                     Studio Film Club, run by artists
a long-established                          Selvon, and Elizabeth Walcott-Hackshaw. For writing on local         advertising agency.                                                      Peter Doig and Che Lovelace.
theatre tradition, and                      history, culture and environment, see Michael Anthony, Lloyd
a new Academy for the                       Best, Anthony de Verteuil, Bridget Brereton, Gérard Besson,          The local version of the Red Earth Festival                              trinidadandtobagofilmfestival.
Performing Arts in the                      CLR James, Kim Johnson, John La Rose, Julian Kenny, Eric             (redearthfestival.webs.com), presented in June to                        com, studiofilmclub.blogspot.
works.                                      Williams, and Discover’s sister organisation Prospect Press.         coincide with World Environmental Day and of                             com
                                                                                                                 which Discover is a media sponsor, offers poetry,
Government-sponsored                                                                                             music, and clay sculpture workshops as well as
events include the annual                                                                                        environment-related activities.
production of Best village,                 Dance                                                                                                                                         BELOW: National Academy for the Performing
                                                                                                                                                                                          Arts, Port of Spain

a festival of the folk arts.
The new National Academy                    Dance companies put on short annual seasons, usually at
for the Performing Arts in                  Queen’s Hall. The work runs the gamut from the experimental
Port of Spain has staged                    modern style of Dave Williams to the classical/European dance of
specially commissioned                      the Cascade Festival Ballet, and Indian dance from the Nrityanjali
shows that include                          Theatre. Other notable names: Noble Douglas, Astor Johnson,
steelband concerts and                      Metamorphosis, Carol La Chapelle, Elle Inc, and regional folk
musicals.                                   performing groups.




Fashion and jewellery
Leading designers take part in Fashion Week T&T in mid-year, and present their own shows, often at
year-end. Leaders in the field are Heather Jones, Claudia Pegus and Meiling.


Local jewellery ranges from the shells and seeds strung together by Akilah Jaramogi (sold, along
with other local craft, at the Hotel Normandie), to the works of art wrought from gems and precious
metals by Chris Anderson, Gillian Bishop, Barbara Jardine, and Jasmine Thomas-Girvan.


32   A r T s & E n T E r T A I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M                                                                              2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T    33
3Canal performing at Queen’s Hall (Stephen Broadbridge)




                                                                                                                                        visual arts
                                                                                                                                        The National Museum (623-5941) has a small representative collection of local art which is on
                                                                                                                                        show for most of the year, and a collection of watercolours by the country’s leading 19th-century
                                                                                                                                        painter, Michel Jean Cazabon.


                                                                                                                                        The Art Society (artsocietytt.org, 622-9827) has an annual show in November of new work that
                                                                                                                                        includes paintings, drawings, and sculpture. The society also organises plein-air painting sessions
                                                                                                                                        in picturesque venues, mostly in the dry season, of course.


                                                                                                                                        Art exhibitions can be found, primarily between Easter and Christmas, at several established
                                                                                                                                        galleries and other venues that might include an artist’s home, a restaurant, or the lobby of a
Music                                                                                                                                   corporate headquarters.


Trinidad’s most popular musical exports are                        Choral groups such as the Marionettes and                            Landscape features very prominently in local painting, but there’s also abstract and avant-garde
probably the steelpan (created in Port of Spain                    the Lydian Singers perform local and western                         work to be seen. Names to look for: MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, sculptors Ralph and Vera Baney,
in the 1930s) and soca. Classic old-time                           classical music, sometimes accompanied                               Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Edward Bowen, Carlisle Chang, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Ken
calypso is still a staple on the menu at the                       by steelbands, which also stage occasional                           Crichlow, Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Che Lovelace, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy Nanan, Lisa
Nu Pub (formerly the Mas Camp) on Ariapita                         concerts of their own. Budding and established                       O’Connor, Peter Sheppard, Sundiata, and Noel Vaucrosson.
Avenue in Woodbrook, and steelpan players                          solo vocalists host their own recitals.
                                                                                                                                        For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.
entertain audiences at competitions, festivals
and events year-round (but especially at                           If you’re in the mood to party, look for shows
Carnival time).                                                    by Machel Montano; Kes the Band; Destra
                                                                   Garcia and Atlantik; Shurwayne Winchester
Home-grown indie music, local rock, jazz and                       and YOU; Faye-Ann Lyons, Bunji Garlin and the
chutney can often be heard live at bars and                        Asylum Band; and countless other soca stars.
restaurants. Among the most popular: sitarist                      Very popular gospel concerts are staged at
Mungal Patasar and his Indian-creole fusion                        larger venues such as the Jean Pierre Complex.
music; Orisha chantuelle Ella Andall; the rapso                    Coming up to Christmas, parang groups
of 3Canal and Maximus Dan; and local fusion                        take centre stage, playing Spanish-influenced
bands 12theband, jointpop, and Orange Sky.                         seasonal folk songs.




Theatre
Theatre groups mostly stage local adaptations of metropolitan comedies, and sometimes original
local work. The Centre for Creative and Festival Arts at UWI, St Augustine stages productions that
have included local and regional classics, calypso musicals, and plays based on local history. Popular
venues for plays include Queen’s Hall in Port of Spain, the CLR James Auditorium at the Cipriani
Labour College in Valsayn, Naparima Bowl in San Fernando, and the Central Bank Auditorium and
Little Carib Theatre (both under renovation). There are occasional performances and readings at the
Trinidad Theatre Workshop, founded by Nobel laureate Derek Walcott in 1959. For stand-up comedy
with a strong local flavour, sample shows by Rachel Price and Learie Joseph.


34   A r T s & E n T E r T A I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M                                                                                                                     2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T   35
BEAChES                                                                       THIS PAGE: Maracas Bay with Tyrico Bay in the background (Martin Farinha) OPPOSITE PAGE: Maracas Bay is the most popular beach in Trinidad (MF)




         The beaches along Trinidad’s four distinct coastlines
       may not rival those in Tobago, but they have everything you
                       need for a beach excursion.



North coast and Chaguaramas                                                   Northeast coast
maracas: the most popular                   and into the rainforest. The      Grande rivière: perfect
beach in the north, with great              Marianne River flows into the     for nature-lovers. It’s the
food and facilities. A favourite            bay, and is great for kayaking.   second largest leatherback
for camping at Easter time.                 Rental accommodation              turtle nesting ground in the
Hotel nearby                                available                         world (March – August).
                                                                              Also good river bathing,
Tyrico: if you like the idea of             scotland bay: a sheltered         kayaking, rainforest hikes.
Maracas’ amenities but don’t                and secluded bay in               Accommodation and facilities
like crowds, this is a smaller,             Chaguaramas only accessible       on the beach
quieter choice nearby                       by boat. Calm clear water
                                            good for snorkelling and          saline (“sally”) bay: clear
las cuevas: good bathing                    swimming                          water with good swimming.
with small caves at the far end                                               Facilities available
of the beach. Facilities onsite             macqueripe bay: small
                                            secluded bay at the end           balandra bay: good
blanchisseuse: a popular                    of the Tucker Valley Road         for swimming, and even
weekend getaway, with hiking                in Chaguaramas. Recently          bodysurfing at the rougher
trails to the nearby waterfall              renovated, good for swimming      end


36      b E A c H E s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M                                                                                                                                      2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E bEAcHEs                37
Pulling seine on the beach at Mayaro (Martin Farinha)




         Lifeguards are
                                   TIPS
     typically on duty
                                 & TRICKS
     9am – 5pm or
     10am – 6pm where
     available, but not
     at all beaches. Red flags
     indicate unsafe bathing areas

        Permits are required both for
     camping and for turtle-watching
     on the nation’s beaches. Contact a
     reputable tour guide, your hotel,
     or the Forestry Division to make
     arrangements

         However inviting they may look,
     it’s best to avoid the beaches in
     Chaguaramas, Galeota and between
     Point Lisas and Point Fortin owing
     to local industrialisation




Salybia: popular for surfing (November – April)
and for swimming (especially June – September).
Fringing reef off eastern end. New beach facilities


Matura: Rough waters make it inadvisable for
swimming, but in March – August it is a popular
and important leatherback turtle nesting site




East coast                                                                                                    South & southwestern coasts
Manzanilla: bordered by distinctive coconut forest (“the Cocal”). Facilities and lifeguards available         Quinam: popular south coast beach. Calm                wonderful views of southwestern coast and, on
at the northern end. Large estuary and lookout where the Nariva River meets the sea. Rental                   waters, good for swimming. Fine brown sand             clear days, neighbouring Venezuela
accommodation available                                                                                       disappears at high tide. A favourite for family
                                                                                                              outings on the weekend. Facilities and hiking trails   Granville: getting there is half the adventure.
Mayaro: glorious stretch of beach, the longest on the island. Popular for long weekends and public                                                                   Popular on weekends and for Ash Wednesday
holidays. Sands dotted with distinctive “chip chip” shells, which protect small oceanic organisms and         Columbus and Cedros bays: both stunning                Carnival cool-down parties
are a local delicacy. Late-afternoon fishing ritual of “pulling seine”, bringing in the day’s catch in huge   in good weather. Cedros is the widest beach on
fishing nets. Rental accommodation available                                                                  the island at low tide. Quiet fishing villages with    For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.



38    b e a C h e S D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M                                                                                                                       2 0 T H a N N I V E R S a Ry I S S u E beaCheS                39
BuSINESS
                                  A meeting-place for the Americas.
                                                                      dTT:Tell us about the origins
                                                                      of the TTCB, and why it was
                                                                      created.
                                                                                                                                      the country offers as a business and leisure
                                                                                                                                      destination to a captive, influential and diverse
                                                                                                                                      audience.


                                                                      crf: The meetings and conference market
                                                                                                                                      What facilities are available to
                                                                      has always been a significant niche market
                                                                      for Trinidad. In 2008 there were approximately
                                                                                                                                      business travellers and conference
                                                                      84,000 business and convention stopover
                                                                                                                                      organisers in Trinidad (and
                                                                      visitors, accounting for 19 per cent of all                     Tobago), and how does this make
                                                                      stopovers. Globally, the meetings, incentives,                  the islands a preferred destination
                                                                      conventions and exhibitions industry or                         for these people?
                                                                      “business tourism” is one of the highest-
                                                                      yielding inbound-tourism segments due to its                    Trinidad has the largest and newest conference
                                                                      high per-delegate spend.                                        infrastructure in the English-speaking Caribbean.
                                                                                                                                      Many hotels offer conference facilities, including
                                                                                                                                      international brands like the Hyatt Regency
                                                                      What exactly is the role the
                                                                                                                                      and the Hilton. We have a wide array of
                                                                      TTCB plays in the business and                                  accommodation options and events venues
                                                                      tourism sectors in Trinidad &                                   on offer, including the luxurious new Carlton
                                                                      Tobago?                                                         Savannah, the new Hyatt, and the newly




                                                                                                                                                                        X
                                                                      The main focus of the bureau is increasing the
                                                                      number of events, conferences and meetings
                                                                      held in T&T. It is a veritable “one-stop shop”
                                                                      for meeting planners. Ultimately, the goal
                                                                      is boosting business-tourism revenue by
                                                                                                                                                   ?
                                                                      increasing business travellers’ length of stay,




          T
                                                                                                                                          We have the
                                                                      and the diversity of pre- and post-conference                    highest buy rates                Firstline FX
                          RINIDAD IS                                  activities available.                                             for your foreign
                          already a financial                                                                                           currency! Order
                          and information                                                                                              in advance so it’s
                                                                      In 2009, Trinidad hosted the                                       waiting for you
                          hub of the                                                                                                                                                      Y
                                                                      5th Summit of the Americas                                         when you land!                      T BU
                          Caribbean and a                                                                                                                                BES TES
          gateway to Latin America, with a                            (SOTA) and the Commonwealth                                                                         R A
          high influx of business travellers.                         heads of Government Meeting
          The Tourism Development                                     (ChOGM). What were these
                                                                                                                                       Call Us                                   Visit
          Company (TDC) has set up the                                experiences like?                                                                      Corner Agra St.
          Trinidad & Tobago Convention                                                                                                 628-1554
                                                                                                                                       628-1175                  & Delhi St.
          Bureau (TTCB). We spoke to the                              T&T really has demonstrated its ability to                                                  St. James
          head of the bureau, Canadian-born                           successfully host large meetings, conferences                                                 Mon- Fri
          Chantel Ross Francois.                                      and conventions. SOTA and CHOGM                                  Email Us               9 am to 5 pm
                                                                      provided a valuable platform to promote what
                                                                                                                                       info@firstlinemoney.com

                                                                                                                                      ORDER WWW.FIRSTLINEMONEY.COM
                                                                      OPPOSITE PAGE: Eric Williams Financial Complex, Port of Spain




40   b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M                                                                                       2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E bUsInEss       41
renovated Hilton, with several               What sort of                     Hyatt, in conjunction with the
new hotel properties on the                                                   University of the West Indies.
                                             events and
way. In Tobago, award-winning                                                 We also partnered with the
resorts like Coco Reef are ideal
                                             conferences is the               Local Organising Committee
for corporate meetings and
                                             TTCB looking to                  for the FIFA Under-17 Women’s
team-building retreats.                      attract?                         World Cup last September.
                                                                              This came after a hectic first
We have excellent and                        We’ve embarked on a diverse      half of 2010, when the bureau
reliable access from major                   programme of promotional         provided support to several
international hubs; sound                    activities aimed at attracting   conferences and events. We
physical infrastructure; state-              a range of events, from          believe Trinidad & Tobago is
of-the-art telecommunications;               sporting events to religious     perfectly positioned to be the
attractive leisure activities; an            conferences and literary         meetings and conventions
exciting and diverse culture;                seminars. In November 2010,      centre for not just the
festivals throughout the                     for example, we hosted the       Caribbean, but for North,
year; and warm, welcoming,                   International Conference on      South and Central America
talented people!                             Caribbean Literature at the      as well.




42    b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M
OPPOSITE PAGE: LaToya Woods, Miss Universe Trinidad & Tobago 2010, enjoys mas on the road in Tribe’s Carnival band (Keown Thomas) BELOW:
                                                                                                                  Roland St George’s costume “Fantasma”, Dimanche Gras 2010 (Atiba Williams)




                           CARNIvAL
  You can party non-stop for weeks, dance in the streets for two
 whole days, meet a monster three storeys high having a rest by the
      side of the road. At Carnival time, anything can happen.




T
               RINIDAD
               is the source.
               From                         On your marks…
               Carnival in
               Trinidad                     After Christmas, soca artists start churning out their “power soca”
sprang the carnivals in                     tunes in earnest. Calypso tents, though a dying breed, start
Notting hill, Brooklyn,                     showcasing local bards’ latest barbs, panyards across the country
Washington, DC, Atlanta,                    come alive with musicians learning their notes for the Panorama
Toronto, Miami, and                         competition, and the mas camps are abuzz with wirebenders,
dozens of other cities                      bead- and feather-stickers, costume designers, and hordes of
where West Indians gather.                  would-be masqueraders registering for their sections (in between
They may be larger, but                     running to the gym to get in shape). By the week before Carnival,
their roots are Trinidadian.                the “fete jumbies” have attended almost every party for months.




44   c A r n I V A l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M                                                                                                                                              2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E c A r n I VA l   45
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Discover Trinidad & Tobago Guide 2011

  • 1. 20th ANNIVERSARY ISSUE A
  • 2. ER - IS INT L T Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island CONTENTS AN T& Ferry Service T RA ER - I S INT L T L SP Welcome 5 A T& ND O N OR TATION C . LTD TR SP Your T&T directory 118 AN OR O TATION C . Calendar 2011 16 T&T in brief 7 History 15 Travel tips 11 Discover Trinidad 20 Accommodation 22 Environment 53 Arts & entertainment 31 Festivals 59 Beaches 36 Nightlife 63 Business 40 Shopping 67 Carnival 44 Sightseeing 71 Production team Eating out 49 Sports 78 Editors Caroline Taylor, Jeremy Taylor Design and *photography Aisha Provoteaux, Ariann Thompson * except where otherwise credited Discover Tobago 82 Sales Denise Chin, Jacqueline Smith Writers Jason Arthur, Laura Dowrich- Phillips, Judy Raymond, Caroline Taylor, Ariann Thompson Editorial assistant Mirissa De Four Production Joanne Mendes, Quality Service Jacqueline Smith Cover photo by Ariann Thompson Printed by The Office Authority Family A publication of Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. (MEP), 6 Prospect Accommodation 86 Festivals 102 Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Arts & entertainment 89 Shopping 106 Trinidad & Tobago Beaches 92 Sightseeing 109 T: (868) 622-3821 • F: (868) 628-0639 • E: info@discovertnt.com Eating out 96 Sports 114 • W: www.discovertnt.com Eco-adventure 98 And connect with us online on: • Facebook www.facebook.com/discovertnt Reference 118 • Twitter www.twitter.com/meppublishers Discover the other 136 San Fernando 130 • Blog: http://meppublishers.blogspot.com Maps Scarborough 133 Central Trinidad 128 South Trinidad 132 © 2011 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this Northeast Trinidad 127 Tobago 134 Vacation publication may be reproduced in any Northwest Trinidad 126 Trinidad 122 form whatsoever without the prior written consent of the publisher. Port of Spain 124 Service directory 118 ABOVE LEFT: Clear-water pool, Asa Wright Nature Centre, Trinidad ABOVE RIGHT: Barbados Bay, Tobago, where a fresh fish market operates Monday – Saturday 1
  • 3.
  • 4. WELCOME! Thank you for choosing Trinidad & Tobago. And thank you for choosing Discover Trinidad & Tobago to show you around. We will cover as much as we can in these few national and international writers, photographers, short pages, and share some of our favourite editors, and designers. places and pastimes. They are so different, these two small Caribbean islands near the Discover online coast of South America. Trinidad has the cultural We have also amassed an archive of invaluable energy, the buzz, the instinct for satire and material on T&T from these outstanding celebration; it is resource-rich with oil and gas, contributors, who know this country and care and environmentally rich too, as any naturalist about getting things right. You can see all of will tell you. Tobago meanwhile is legendary for it on our new website, www.discovertnt.com, its peace and calm, its glorious beaches, its where we hope you will find everything you need affection for the old-time ways. to explore every aspect of T&T life and culture. Four sections To help you explore these two contrasting islands, we have divided this book into four Trinidad & sections. The first (pages 1 – 19) provides Tobago’s tourism sTAndArds basic practical information common to authorities run an & fEEdbAck both Tobago and Trinidad — money matters, annual inspection transport, headline events. The second programme (pages 20 – 78) explores Trinidad, the larger called Trinidad & island, with different areas of interest arranged Tobago Tourism Industry alphabetically, from Accommodation to Sports. Certification (TTTIC). A special logo is used to indicate approval. Current The third section (pages 79 – 123) does the information can be found at www. same for Tobago. The final section (pages 114 gotrinidadandtobago.com. – 132) contains maps of both islands and their Advertising in Discover is open biggest cities and towns. Here you will also to anybody, but publication of find a Service Directory, listing our advertising an advertisement does not imply partners, who are more than ready to help editorial or official endorsement, you with any aspect of your visit; and finally a quality assurance, or participation in page encouraging you not to leave Trinidad & the TTTIC programme. Tobago without seeing both islands. Every effort has been made to ensure that information is correct at press time. our 20th anniversary But things in T&T change swiftly, With this edition, Discover Trinidad & Tobago and we make no guarantees about celebrates 20 years of publication. It is the only information presented. If you have local guide to have published for so long, year any suggestions or queries, we would in, year out. In that time we’ve produced 22 be delighted to hear from you: we take editions, become the most sustainably produced all feedback seriously. local guide, and worked with some of the finest 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E wElcomE 5
  • 5. T&T IN BRIEF Quick facts airports: Crown Point International Airport, (1,864 sq miles) or 105x80km (65x50 miles) Tobago (10km/7 miles from Scarborough); Piarco International Airport, Trinidad (27km/17 time zone: GMT -4, EST +1 miles from Port of Spain) Government: climate: tropical. Dry season January – May, • system: parliamentary democracy wet June – December (islands just south of the • ruling party: the People’s Partnership normal hurricane belt). Temperature range 72 – • prime minister: Kamla Persad-Bissessar 95°F (22 – 35°C); average 83°F (29°C) • president: George Maxwell Richards • opposition party: People’s National highest point: Trinidad’s El Cerro del Aripo Movement (940m/3,085ft); Tobago’s Main Ridge (549m/1,860ft) language: English (official) location: 11°N, 61°W. Trinidad and Tobago Population: 1.2 million (July 2010): 33km (21 miles) apart, 10km (7 miles) from 40% Indian, 37.5% African, 21.7% mixed. Venezuelan coast 50,000 (primarily African descent) in Tobago size: Tobago 300km2 (116 sq miles) or religion: Roman Catholic 26%, other Christian 48x16km (30x10 miles). Trinidad 4,828km2 31.6%, Hindu 22.5%, Muslim 5.8% A yellow poui tree in the Queen’s Park Savannah (Nisha Kong) capital: the national capital is Port of Spain, above (pop 45,000, 270,000 metropolitan). Tobago’s capital is Scarborough (pop 17,000) 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T&T In brIEf 7
  • 6. PUblIc wI-fI ArEAs Media and communications Piarco country phone code: +868 Press: three daily national Airport; newspapers (Express, Rituals coffee shops mail: TTPost (national mail Guardian, Newsday), seven (nationwide); Sweet service); plus FedEx, DHL, weeklies (including Tobago Lime Restaurant UPS and others News), one tri-weekly (Woodbrook); Trincity Mall (food court); and landline telephone: radio: 37 FM stations; two a growing number of Telecommunications Services AM stations other locations of Trinidad & Tobago (TSTT) and FLOW. Prepaid Television: 12 local stations, international phone cards five free-to-air (NCC-4, CCN available TV6, Gayelle, CNC3 and C-TV), seven available only mobile telephone: bmobile via cable (ACTS, IBN, ieTV, (TSTT) and Digicel operate on Parliament Channel, Synergy, Practicalities GSM networks; prepaid SIM Tobago Channel 5, Win-TV); cards available for unlocked some only available on one currency: Trinidad and phones island Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1=TT$6.30 driving: on the left. Trinidad speed limits 80kph (50mph) on highways and 55kph (34mph) in settled areas; 50kph (32mph) in Tobago. Seatbelts required. Visitors can drive up to 90 days on valid foreign/ international licence Caribbean Airlines and Air Jamaica offer the best value and the best travel experience. Come... fly with us. Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz Caribbean Airlines Antigua • Barbados • Caracas • Guyana • Jamaica • New York/JFK money: ABMs (ATMs), credit/ South Florida • St. Maarten • Suriname • Toronto • Trinidad & Tobago Air Jamaica debit cards and travellers’ Fort Lauderdale • Grenada • Kingston • Montego Bay cheques in general use Nassau • New York/JFK • Philadelphia • Toronto Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; VAT 15% on goods and services water: tap water safe to drink (boil to be extra safe) Scarlet ibis among the mangrove at Caroni Swamp (Maria Huggins) 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T&T In 9 brIEf
  • 7. TRAvEL TIPS how to reach Trinidad & Tobago how to move around in T&T by air: scheduled flights are operated by Aeropostal, American Airlines, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, Condor, Continental, To and from the airports: Copa, LIAT, Monarch, Spirit, Suriname Airways, and Virgin authorised taxis operate Atlantic. Others offer charter flights outside arrivals halls at Piarco and Crown Point airports; by sea: the peak cruise ship season is November – April, check the approved rates (on with visits from Fred Olsen, Holland America, Ocean Village, display at the taxi stands) Princess, Saga Travel, Seabourn, and Windstar lines Private taxis: have to be on arrival: you need a passport valid for three months beyond summoned by phone (check your intended stay. Non-residents need documentation of Yellow Pages) return or onward travel and a valid local address. Visas are generally not required for visits up to 30 days. For yacht arrivals, car rental: local and clearance certificate from the last port of call and the vessel’s international companies have registration certificate (or authorisation for use) are required offices at the airports water taxi: a regular water taxi service (above) links Port of Spain with San Fernando. The journey time is around 45 minutes and the one-way fare TT$15. The service is operated by the National Infrastructure Development Company (623-0310, nidco.co.tt). At press time, four new vessels had joined the operation; there was discussion about adding new stops (Chaguanas, Point Fortin) and new routes (to Venezuela and nearby islands), and the need to increase the fare to TT$20 — check discovertnt.com for updated information. 10 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s 11
  • 8. Tour operators: see directory Fleets of privately operated, PUblIc TAXIs on pages 118 – 21 unscheduled maxi-taxis (12 – buses: operate from hubs in 25 seat small vans or mini- Port of Spain (City Gate, on buses) and route taxis (ordinary South Quay), Chaguanas, and cars) operate specific routes, picking King’s Wharf, San Fernando up passengers and dropping them off by request. to most of Trinidad; and from Maxi-taxis have coloured stripes to indicate the area Sangster’s Hill, Scarborough, they serve. Legal, registered taxis have licence plates to most parts of Tobago. beginning with h and are unmetered, so confirm the Many are new, articulated, fare in advance. air-conditioned vehicles. Fares are low; schedules can be Public taxis operate from different stands depending checked at ptsc.co.tt on the route they take: Inter-island ferries: see Port of Spain to: Route taxi stand: page 136 Cascade Charlotte and Prince Streets Chaguanas Broadway and Independence Square Curepe – Sangre Grande lower Henry Street republic bank Diego Martin/Petit Valley South Quay and Abercromby Street how to contact... Maraval Duke and Charlotte Streets San Fernando Broadway and Independence division of Tourism, Square Tobago: 639-2125, San Juan lower Charlotte Street visittobago.gov.tt St Ann’s/St James Hart Street Immigration division: 625- Wrightson Road lower Chacon Street 3571 (Trinidad), 639-2681 Long Circular Road lower Chacon Street (Tobago), immigration.gov.tt Chaguaramas Park and St Vincent Streets Tobago House of Assembly: 639-3421, tha.gov.tt Chaguanas to: Tourism development Couva & nearby towns higher Southern Main Road company: 675-7034, tdc. Curepe Chaguanas Main Road co.tt, gotrinidadandtobago. Port of Spain lower Southern Main Road com Tourist information offices: San Fernando to: 639-0509 (Crown Point All areas see map, page 130 Airport); 635-0934 (Cruise Ship Complex, Tobago); 669- Scarborough to: 5196 (Piarco Airport) All areas Carrington Street Trinidad & Tobago government online: ttconnect.gov.tt 12 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s 13
  • 9. hISTORY maxi-taxis: depart from City Gate on South Quay, or from the corner of South Quay and Wrightson Road, in Port of Spain; PrEcAUTIons in San Fernando from Queen Street or St James Street; and in Tobago from lower Scarborough opposite the port. Colour Route like much of the world, Pre-Columbian times Black San Fernando – Princes Town, connections to Mayaro the islands are affected Both islands settled by Amerindian tribes migrating northwards from the South American mainland from Blue Tobago by crime, particularly around 5,000 BC Brown San Fernando – La Romaine – Siparia – Point Fortin Trinidad. Green Port of Spain – Chaguanas – San Fernando Red Port of Spain – Arima, connections to Always: drive with Separate colonies Blanchisseuse/Matelot extreme care ... leave tobago trinidad Yellow Port of Spain – Diego Martin – Chaguaramas valuables at home 1498 On his third voyage, Columbus 1498 Columbus lands in Trinidad, naming or well concealed ... sights Tobago and calls it Magdalena it after the Trinity walk in company ... 1627 – 1650 Various attempts at European 1498 – 1797 Neglected Spanish colony; Emergency numbers lock your vehicle ... settlement Amerindians decimated lock your room/house 1768 Tobago Assembly established late 18c French Catholic planters arrive; Ambulance (public fire: 990 door ... close windows 1672 – 1781 British, Dutch, French jostling for Africans imported as slaves hospitals): 811 Hyperbaric medical facility: at night or if you are control 1797 British colony crime stoppers: 800-TIPS, 660-4369 (Roxborough, going out ... be aware 1781 French sugar colony 1838 End of slavery crimestopperstt.com Tobago) of your surroundings 1814 British sugar colony 1845 – 1917 144,000 indentured labourers Ems (emergency medical Office of Disaster ... raise an alarm and 1838 End of slavery imported from India services): 624-4343 (north Preparedness: 640-1285 head to the nearest 1889 Under Trinidad control; 1858 British start trying to suppress Trinidad), 653-4343 (south/ (Trinidad), 660-7489 (Tobago) police station if you Assembly disbanded Carnival central Trinidad), 639-4444 Police: 999 or 555 (Trinidad); suspect you are being (Tobago) 639-2520/5590 (Tobago) followed never: venture A single nation into deserted or Sustainable travel unfamiliar areas alone under British rule 1898 Tobago fully merged with Trinidad Both climate change and globalisation can hit developing island ... wear extravagant 1903 “Water Riots” in Port of Spain, Red House burned down nations particularly hard. Here’s what you can do to safeguard the jewellery ... leave 1925 First national elections, with limited franchise islands’ natural and cultural treasures: handbags or wallets 1937 Oilfield and labour strikes lying around ... use 1945 Universal adult suffrage buy local: buy local CDs, books and DVDs from authorised an ABM if you sense 1945 Public emergence of steelbands retailers (not pirated copies); and purchase locally produced food someone suspicious 1956 Internal self-government and souvenirs (not made from endangered species) nearby (if your card gets stuck, call the fly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon bank immediately) Independence dioxide emissions from your flight ... leave valuables in 1962 Independence from Britain your car ... leave car 1970 “Black Power” uprising mind your gas: choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs windows down when 1976 Republic within the Commonwealth when renting (or buying) a car; drive within the speed limit; don’t stopping, especially 1980 Tobago House of Assembly restored let your car idle; keep your tyres inflated; try to carpool; and when at night ... engage in 1990 Unsuccessful coup attempt by Afro-Islamist Jamaat al-Muslimeen you can, walk or cycle any altercations with 2010 Most recent general election strangers 14 T r A V E l T I P s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E HIsTorY 15
  • 10. CALENDAR 2011 APRIL A month for music: Pan Jazz in de Yard (Trinidad) • Trinidad) • Maypole Festival (Tobago) • Rapsofest: the Power of the Oral Traditions • 29th, in honour of St Peter, patron saint of fishermen • and trade unionists rally Jazz Artists on the Greens Harvest festivals in Tobago their members in Fyzabad, (Pigeon Point, Tobago) • (Whim, Delaford, Belle south Trinidad, on Labour Tobago Jazz Experience Garden and Mason Hall) Day (public holiday, 19th) in and Jazz on the Beach memory of past battles (Tobago) • Pan in the 21st JUNE Century (Trinidad) A heavy emphasis on Also: WeBeat Festival (St commemoration this James, Trinidad) • Harvest Also: the long Easter month: young Tobagonians festivals in Tobago (Lambeau, weekend, with public celebrate island traditions Bloody Bay and Roxborough holidays on Friday 22 and with the Junior Tobago Monday 25: horse-racing Heritage Festival • Hindus JULY at the Santa Rosa track in remember India’s sacred Tobago’s month: Tobago Arima (Trinidad), goat and River Ganges with the Heritage Festival • Great crab races in Mt Pleasant Ganga Dhaara River Fête Weekend • Prime (Monday) and Buccoo Festival (Blanchisseuse, Minister’s Charity Golf (Tuesday) • Point Fortin Trinidad) • Christians Classic • Charlotteville Borough Day: a week of mark Corpus Christi (3rd, Fisherman’s Fest • South J’Ouvert, mas, pan and a public holiday) and the Caribbean Open Golf parties • Trade & Investment Fishermen’s Fest on the Tournament • Tobago Convention (Trinidad) • Goodwood harvest festival JANUARY MARCH (Tobago) • T&T Literary The Carnival season begins. During Carnival reaches its climax on Monday 7 Festival the month, the parties and panyards, the and Tuesday 8, after a week of big shows entertainers and mas camps get under way (Soca Monarch, Panorama, Dimanche Gras), MAY in earnest and is followed by cool-downs at beaches A month of food and and at Argyle Falls, Tobago fashion: Taste Trinidad Also: New Year’s Day (public holiday) • & Tobago celebrates the Sailing and cricket seasons begin • Tobago In sport: Trinidad & Tobago Golf Open • islands’ culinary skills • Carnival Caravan • Harvest festivals in Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament Tobago stages its Culinary Tobago (Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring Festival • Trinidad & Garden, Plymouth, Mt Pleasant) Also: Chinese New Year on the 3rd (the Tobago Fashion Week year of the Rabbit) • Jazz Artists on the FEBRUARY Greens • Hindu spring festival of Phagwa Also: a public holiday for The Carnival season – a long one this year (Holi) • Turtle nesting season begins • Indian Arrival Day on the – is in top gear Public holiday on the 30th for Spiritual 30th, celebrating the arrival “Shouter” Baptist Liberation Day, of the first Indians in 1845 Also: Tobago Carnival Caravan • Tobago commemorating the end of the colonial ban • Beacon Cycling Series • Carnival Regatta (Tobago) • Harvest on the “Shouter” Baptist faith • Harvest Rainbow Cup International OPPOSITE PAGE: Soca celebrity Machel Montano charms the kids at the children’s concert “Boy festivals in Tobago (Hope, Adelphi, Buccoo, festivals in Tobago (Mt St George, Mason Triathlon (Tobago) • La Boy and the Magic Drum” ABOVE: Black Rock Performers folk dancer representing “A Queen of Franklyn, Bon Accord) Hall, Roxborough, Bon Accord) Divina Pastora (Siparia, Spirit” (CaféMoka) 16 C A L E N D A R D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T H a n n i v e r s a ry i s s u e CALENDAR 17
  • 11. The Hindu festival of Ganga Dharaa honours the environment and Mother Ganga (Martin Farinha) in Castara and Black Rock the start of the season (Trinidad) • National Tourism for parang, Spanish- Week • Harvest festival in Also: Jazz on the Hill flavoured music, which will Patience Hill, Tobago (Trinidad) • Soca for run straight through till Summer and other big Christmas noVEmbEr concerts featuring local Pan is Beautiful in and international stars • Also: the Eid-ul-Fitr holiday Trinidad, the Scarborough Steelband Music Festival marking the end of the Muslim Cup Golf Tournament (Trinidad) • Tourism fasting month of Ramadan • and Christmas Caravan in Adventure Park/T&T Road Republic Day (24th, public Tobago Trip: displays, tours, and live holiday) marks the country’s entertainment transition into a republic in Also: Best Village 1976 • International Open competition finals • Harvest AUGUsT Water Swim • Horse-racing festivals in Plymouth, Black A month of nationalist classics in Arima: Royal Oak Rock, Les Coteaux, Moriah, feeling: Emancipation Day Derby, Santa Rosa Oaks Scarborough, Montgomery (1st, a public holiday) marks and Caribbean Champion (Tobago) the end of slavery in 1838; Stakes (Trinidad) • Panyard Independence Day (31st, Sensations • San Fernando dEcEmbEr a public holiday) marks Jazz Festival (Trinidad) Christmas (public holiday, independence from Britain • Tobago Fest: parties, 25th) dominates everything, street parade and J’Ouvert followed immediately by Also: the Carib Great • Tobago International Boxing Day (public holiday, Race for powerboats, from Gospel Festival • Turtle- 26th) with its horse-racing Trinidad to Tobago) • Arima watching season ends and parties, as minds turn to Borough Day: J’Ouvert, next year’s Carnival steelpan, calypso and parties ocTobEr • Best Village Competition Staging of the hindu Also: Paramin Parang begins, and runs through epic Ramleela prepares Festival (Trinidad) • the November • Muhtadi the way for the festival of Muslim festival of Hosay International Drumming Divali (public holiday, late (Trinidad) • on Assembly Festival in Tobago • Osun October/early November) Day, the Tobago House River Festival • Castara and its thousands of of Assembly celebrates Fisherman’s Fête (Tobago) flickering deyas and rewards Tobagonians’ • Santa Rosa Festival achievements, with (Arima) • Harvest festival in Also: Steelpan & Jazz exhibitions, sports and Speyside, Tobago Festival (Trinidad) • Coast- recreation • Tobago Flying 2-Coast Adventure Race Colours (kite-flying festival in sEPTEmbEr (Trinidad) • Amerindian Plymouth). Towards the end of the Heritage Day, Arima • Blue month come the ambitious Food Festival (Tobago) • Many dates are set shortly before T&T Film Festival and European Film Festival the event, and are always subject to change or cancellation. For more, see our Festivals sections under each island, and visit us online at www.discovertnt.com. 18 19
  • 12. Cruise ships docked in Port of Spain for a Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (Keown Thomas) TRINIDAD 20 21
  • 13. ACCOMMODATION The business traveller A weekend conference, a Carnival adventure, a search for the blue- Business hotels in Trinidad can crowned motmot... Trinidad’s visitors have their needs and budgets, be grand or simply practical, and the island’s accommodation stock can cater for them all. but they provide what the businessman needs and expects. Several of the major brands have properties in and around Port of Spain (Crowne The eco-adventurer Plaza, Hilton, Holiday Inn, Hyatt, Marriott), and there are The eco-visitors and nature enthusiasts, both scientific and some popular independent amateur, on the other hand, get out of town quickly and head properties like the Kapok. There for the hills and the forests. A few properties cater especially is plenty of flexible conference for those interested in the island’s flora and fauna, its wetlands, and meeting space in the city, its nesting turtles, and above all its magnificent variety of birds. and a recently established Accommodation is usually close by, but is in limited supply: it conference bureau. Excellent includes the world-famous Asa Wright Nature Centre in the hills hotels and facilities are part above Arima. of the reason why Trinidad continues to be the business For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit centre of the region. us online at discovertnt.com. AVAIlAbIlITY & PrIcEs The vacationer hotel rooms average City, coast or mountain? Port of Spain is not uS$125 a night, the best base for a sun-and-sand holiday (the guesthouses $65; famous Maracas Bay is more than half an hour’s but discounted rates and packages drive); its visitors are after the excitement of are often available. however, peak its music, partying, bars and nightspots, its season is December – April, and flamboyance and its general “buzz”. Luxury rates increase dramatically around seekers gravitate to the large hotels with Carnival time when droves of their world-class spas and entertainment; expatriates and tourists flock to adventurers and budget travellers stay at the Trinidad. Book as far in advance as smaller hotels, guesthouses, and bed-and- you can. breakfast properties. Beyond the city, the north and northeast coasts supply most of the beach ABOVE: Anise Resort & Spa, Sans Souci properties, smart or rustic. 22 A c c o m m o d A T I o n D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A c c o m m o d AT I o n 23
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  • 17. ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT The small size of the local arts scene means that many artists are part-time semi-professionals. But there’s certainly no shortage of vibrancy or creativity. T RINIDAD artists draw on the classical and folk traditions of Europe, Africa and India, combining them in original ways or adding Email: info@aliciashouse.com website: www.aliciashouse.com a creole touch to create new forms that are distinctly Trinidadian. With limited audiences, events often have short runs, so if you blink you’ll miss them. Keep a close eye on ads and announcements in the local media and especially online. Facebook has become one of the most reliable sources for information about current arts and cultural events. Most of the work not directly related to the Carnival arts closes down after Christmas, when Carnival shows and parties take over, and resumes by Easter. Around September, Signal Hill Alumni Choir performing at their 25th anniversary concert at Queen’s Hall (Keown Thomas) 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 31
  • 18. look out for performances on THE of Ramleela, an epic Books frInGE Alice Yard (aliceyard.blogspot.com) Film adaptation of the Ramayana in Woodbrook is the backyard of a enacted by villagers at Monique Roffey and Amanda Smyth are among local writers house that once belonged to architect The two-week annual Trinidad open-air venues, mostly in who have published internationally successful books recently: Sean Leonard’s great-grandmother. & Tobago Film Festival in central Trinidad. Roffey’s novel White Woman on a Green Bicycle was shortlisted Now it hosts performances and installations September screens local, for the 2010 Orange Prize. Both visited Port of Spain to launch by local and visiting artists who work in the visual regional and international Activity is typically their books. media, dance, music, and literature. Recently it’s been films at MovieTowne and concentrated in or near the site of a pop-up store selling clothes and bags other venues. Trinidadian Port of Spain, with music Book launches, readings and lectures take place at the National designed by Robert Young of The Cloth. filmmakers Horace Ové, Yao and theatre taking place in Library, UWI, the University of Trinidad & Tobago, the National Ramesar, and Frances-Anne venues from Chaguaramas, Museum, and at bookstores. The biggest names in local Erotic Art Week, in mid-year, features painting, Solomon have had notable west of the capital, to literature are Nobel laureates VS Naipaul and Derek Walcott, but drawing, photography, readings and cellphone films, releases in the last few years. the university of the there are many more. among other things. The organisers say it’s “open to West Indies (uWI) in the any contemporary artistic exploration of our erotic Most Thursday nights there are east. But San Fernando Look for fiction and plays from Lisa Allen-Agostini, Tony Hall, ethos”. It’s staged simultaneously at venues that free showings of art films at has its own arts scene, Earl Lovelace, Ian McDonald, VS Naipaul, Elizabeth Nunez, Sam include a rumshop, a wine bar, and the offices of an Studio Film Club, run by artists a long-established Selvon, and Elizabeth Walcott-Hackshaw. For writing on local advertising agency. Peter Doig and Che Lovelace. theatre tradition, and history, culture and environment, see Michael Anthony, Lloyd a new Academy for the Best, Anthony de Verteuil, Bridget Brereton, Gérard Besson, The local version of the Red Earth Festival trinidadandtobagofilmfestival. Performing Arts in the CLR James, Kim Johnson, John La Rose, Julian Kenny, Eric (redearthfestival.webs.com), presented in June to com, studiofilmclub.blogspot. works. Williams, and Discover’s sister organisation Prospect Press. coincide with World Environmental Day and of com which Discover is a media sponsor, offers poetry, Government-sponsored music, and clay sculpture workshops as well as events include the annual environment-related activities. production of Best village, Dance BELOW: National Academy for the Performing Arts, Port of Spain a festival of the folk arts. The new National Academy Dance companies put on short annual seasons, usually at for the Performing Arts in Queen’s Hall. The work runs the gamut from the experimental Port of Spain has staged modern style of Dave Williams to the classical/European dance of specially commissioned the Cascade Festival Ballet, and Indian dance from the Nrityanjali shows that include Theatre. Other notable names: Noble Douglas, Astor Johnson, steelband concerts and Metamorphosis, Carol La Chapelle, Elle Inc, and regional folk musicals. performing groups. Fashion and jewellery Leading designers take part in Fashion Week T&T in mid-year, and present their own shows, often at year-end. Leaders in the field are Heather Jones, Claudia Pegus and Meiling. Local jewellery ranges from the shells and seeds strung together by Akilah Jaramogi (sold, along with other local craft, at the Hotel Normandie), to the works of art wrought from gems and precious metals by Chris Anderson, Gillian Bishop, Barbara Jardine, and Jasmine Thomas-Girvan. 32 A r T s & E n T E r T A I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 33
  • 19. 3Canal performing at Queen’s Hall (Stephen Broadbridge) visual arts The National Museum (623-5941) has a small representative collection of local art which is on show for most of the year, and a collection of watercolours by the country’s leading 19th-century painter, Michel Jean Cazabon. The Art Society (artsocietytt.org, 622-9827) has an annual show in November of new work that includes paintings, drawings, and sculpture. The society also organises plein-air painting sessions in picturesque venues, mostly in the dry season, of course. Art exhibitions can be found, primarily between Easter and Christmas, at several established galleries and other venues that might include an artist’s home, a restaurant, or the lobby of a Music corporate headquarters. Trinidad’s most popular musical exports are Choral groups such as the Marionettes and Landscape features very prominently in local painting, but there’s also abstract and avant-garde probably the steelpan (created in Port of Spain the Lydian Singers perform local and western work to be seen. Names to look for: MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, sculptors Ralph and Vera Baney, in the 1930s) and soca. Classic old-time classical music, sometimes accompanied Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Edward Bowen, Carlisle Chang, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Ken calypso is still a staple on the menu at the by steelbands, which also stage occasional Crichlow, Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Che Lovelace, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy Nanan, Lisa Nu Pub (formerly the Mas Camp) on Ariapita concerts of their own. Budding and established O’Connor, Peter Sheppard, Sundiata, and Noel Vaucrosson. Avenue in Woodbrook, and steelpan players solo vocalists host their own recitals. For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com. entertain audiences at competitions, festivals and events year-round (but especially at If you’re in the mood to party, look for shows Carnival time). by Machel Montano; Kes the Band; Destra Garcia and Atlantik; Shurwayne Winchester Home-grown indie music, local rock, jazz and and YOU; Faye-Ann Lyons, Bunji Garlin and the chutney can often be heard live at bars and Asylum Band; and countless other soca stars. restaurants. Among the most popular: sitarist Very popular gospel concerts are staged at Mungal Patasar and his Indian-creole fusion larger venues such as the Jean Pierre Complex. music; Orisha chantuelle Ella Andall; the rapso Coming up to Christmas, parang groups of 3Canal and Maximus Dan; and local fusion take centre stage, playing Spanish-influenced bands 12theband, jointpop, and Orange Sky. seasonal folk songs. Theatre Theatre groups mostly stage local adaptations of metropolitan comedies, and sometimes original local work. The Centre for Creative and Festival Arts at UWI, St Augustine stages productions that have included local and regional classics, calypso musicals, and plays based on local history. Popular venues for plays include Queen’s Hall in Port of Spain, the CLR James Auditorium at the Cipriani Labour College in Valsayn, Naparima Bowl in San Fernando, and the Central Bank Auditorium and Little Carib Theatre (both under renovation). There are occasional performances and readings at the Trinidad Theatre Workshop, founded by Nobel laureate Derek Walcott in 1959. For stand-up comedy with a strong local flavour, sample shows by Rachel Price and Learie Joseph. 34 A r T s & E n T E r T A I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 35
  • 20. BEAChES THIS PAGE: Maracas Bay with Tyrico Bay in the background (Martin Farinha) OPPOSITE PAGE: Maracas Bay is the most popular beach in Trinidad (MF) The beaches along Trinidad’s four distinct coastlines may not rival those in Tobago, but they have everything you need for a beach excursion. North coast and Chaguaramas Northeast coast maracas: the most popular and into the rainforest. The Grande rivière: perfect beach in the north, with great Marianne River flows into the for nature-lovers. It’s the food and facilities. A favourite bay, and is great for kayaking. second largest leatherback for camping at Easter time. Rental accommodation turtle nesting ground in the Hotel nearby available world (March – August). Also good river bathing, Tyrico: if you like the idea of scotland bay: a sheltered kayaking, rainforest hikes. Maracas’ amenities but don’t and secluded bay in Accommodation and facilities like crowds, this is a smaller, Chaguaramas only accessible on the beach quieter choice nearby by boat. Calm clear water good for snorkelling and saline (“sally”) bay: clear las cuevas: good bathing swimming water with good swimming. with small caves at the far end Facilities available of the beach. Facilities onsite macqueripe bay: small secluded bay at the end balandra bay: good blanchisseuse: a popular of the Tucker Valley Road for swimming, and even weekend getaway, with hiking in Chaguaramas. Recently bodysurfing at the rougher trails to the nearby waterfall renovated, good for swimming end 36 b E A c H E s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E bEAcHEs 37
  • 21. Pulling seine on the beach at Mayaro (Martin Farinha) Lifeguards are TIPS typically on duty & TRICKS 9am – 5pm or 10am – 6pm where available, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas Permits are required both for camping and for turtle-watching on the nation’s beaches. Contact a reputable tour guide, your hotel, or the Forestry Division to make arrangements However inviting they may look, it’s best to avoid the beaches in Chaguaramas, Galeota and between Point Lisas and Point Fortin owing to local industrialisation Salybia: popular for surfing (November – April) and for swimming (especially June – September). Fringing reef off eastern end. New beach facilities Matura: Rough waters make it inadvisable for swimming, but in March – August it is a popular and important leatherback turtle nesting site East coast South & southwestern coasts Manzanilla: bordered by distinctive coconut forest (“the Cocal”). Facilities and lifeguards available Quinam: popular south coast beach. Calm wonderful views of southwestern coast and, on at the northern end. Large estuary and lookout where the Nariva River meets the sea. Rental waters, good for swimming. Fine brown sand clear days, neighbouring Venezuela accommodation available disappears at high tide. A favourite for family outings on the weekend. Facilities and hiking trails Granville: getting there is half the adventure. Mayaro: glorious stretch of beach, the longest on the island. Popular for long weekends and public Popular on weekends and for Ash Wednesday holidays. Sands dotted with distinctive “chip chip” shells, which protect small oceanic organisms and Columbus and Cedros bays: both stunning Carnival cool-down parties are a local delicacy. Late-afternoon fishing ritual of “pulling seine”, bringing in the day’s catch in huge in good weather. Cedros is the widest beach on fishing nets. Rental accommodation available the island at low tide. Quiet fishing villages with For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com. 38 b e a C h e S D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T H a N N I V E R S a Ry I S S u E beaCheS 39
  • 22. BuSINESS A meeting-place for the Americas. dTT:Tell us about the origins of the TTCB, and why it was created. the country offers as a business and leisure destination to a captive, influential and diverse audience. crf: The meetings and conference market What facilities are available to has always been a significant niche market for Trinidad. In 2008 there were approximately business travellers and conference 84,000 business and convention stopover organisers in Trinidad (and visitors, accounting for 19 per cent of all Tobago), and how does this make stopovers. Globally, the meetings, incentives, the islands a preferred destination conventions and exhibitions industry or for these people? “business tourism” is one of the highest- yielding inbound-tourism segments due to its Trinidad has the largest and newest conference high per-delegate spend. infrastructure in the English-speaking Caribbean. Many hotels offer conference facilities, including international brands like the Hyatt Regency What exactly is the role the and the Hilton. We have a wide array of TTCB plays in the business and accommodation options and events venues tourism sectors in Trinidad & on offer, including the luxurious new Carlton Tobago? Savannah, the new Hyatt, and the newly X The main focus of the bureau is increasing the number of events, conferences and meetings held in T&T. It is a veritable “one-stop shop” for meeting planners. Ultimately, the goal is boosting business-tourism revenue by ? increasing business travellers’ length of stay, T We have the and the diversity of pre- and post-conference highest buy rates Firstline FX RINIDAD IS activities available. for your foreign already a financial currency! Order and information in advance so it’s In 2009, Trinidad hosted the waiting for you hub of the Y 5th Summit of the Americas when you land! T BU Caribbean and a BES TES gateway to Latin America, with a (SOTA) and the Commonwealth R A high influx of business travellers. heads of Government Meeting The Tourism Development (ChOGM). What were these Call Us Visit Company (TDC) has set up the experiences like? Corner Agra St. Trinidad & Tobago Convention 628-1554 628-1175 & Delhi St. Bureau (TTCB). We spoke to the T&T really has demonstrated its ability to St. James head of the bureau, Canadian-born successfully host large meetings, conferences Mon- Fri Chantel Ross Francois. and conventions. SOTA and CHOGM Email Us 9 am to 5 pm provided a valuable platform to promote what info@firstlinemoney.com ORDER WWW.FIRSTLINEMONEY.COM OPPOSITE PAGE: Eric Williams Financial Complex, Port of Spain 40 b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E bUsInEss 41
  • 23. renovated Hilton, with several What sort of Hyatt, in conjunction with the new hotel properties on the University of the West Indies. events and way. In Tobago, award-winning We also partnered with the resorts like Coco Reef are ideal conferences is the Local Organising Committee for corporate meetings and TTCB looking to for the FIFA Under-17 Women’s team-building retreats. attract? World Cup last September. This came after a hectic first We have excellent and We’ve embarked on a diverse half of 2010, when the bureau reliable access from major programme of promotional provided support to several international hubs; sound activities aimed at attracting conferences and events. We physical infrastructure; state- a range of events, from believe Trinidad & Tobago is of-the-art telecommunications; sporting events to religious perfectly positioned to be the attractive leisure activities; an conferences and literary meetings and conventions exciting and diverse culture; seminars. In November 2010, centre for not just the festivals throughout the for example, we hosted the Caribbean, but for North, year; and warm, welcoming, International Conference on South and Central America talented people! Caribbean Literature at the as well. 42 b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M
  • 24. OPPOSITE PAGE: LaToya Woods, Miss Universe Trinidad & Tobago 2010, enjoys mas on the road in Tribe’s Carnival band (Keown Thomas) BELOW: Roland St George’s costume “Fantasma”, Dimanche Gras 2010 (Atiba Williams) CARNIvAL You can party non-stop for weeks, dance in the streets for two whole days, meet a monster three storeys high having a rest by the side of the road. At Carnival time, anything can happen. T RINIDAD is the source. From On your marks… Carnival in Trinidad After Christmas, soca artists start churning out their “power soca” sprang the carnivals in tunes in earnest. Calypso tents, though a dying breed, start Notting hill, Brooklyn, showcasing local bards’ latest barbs, panyards across the country Washington, DC, Atlanta, come alive with musicians learning their notes for the Panorama Toronto, Miami, and competition, and the mas camps are abuzz with wirebenders, dozens of other cities bead- and feather-stickers, costume designers, and hordes of where West Indians gather. would-be masqueraders registering for their sections (in between They may be larger, but running to the gym to get in shape). By the week before Carnival, their roots are Trinidadian. the “fete jumbies” have attended almost every party for months. 44 c A r n I V A l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E c A r n I VA l 45