Discover is a travel guide aimed both at international tourists and visitors planning a trip or vacation to the islands – whether for an eco adventure, business trip, or beach holiday – and at local Trinidadians and Tobagonians looking to know and explore more about their native islands.
With our 2011 edition, we celebrate 20 years of producing Discover Trinidad & Tobago, the only local guide that has published year in, year out, for so long. In that time we’ve produced 22 editions, become the most sustainably produced local guide, and worked with some of the finest national and international writers, photographers, editors, and designers.
4. WELCOME!
Thank you for choosing Trinidad & Tobago. And thank you for
choosing Discover Trinidad & Tobago to show you around.
We will cover as much as we can in these few national and international writers, photographers,
short pages, and share some of our favourite editors, and designers.
places and pastimes. They are so different,
these two small Caribbean islands near the Discover online
coast of South America. Trinidad has the cultural We have also amassed an archive of invaluable
energy, the buzz, the instinct for satire and material on T&T from these outstanding
celebration; it is resource-rich with oil and gas, contributors, who know this country and care
and environmentally rich too, as any naturalist about getting things right. You can see all of
will tell you. Tobago meanwhile is legendary for it on our new website, www.discovertnt.com,
its peace and calm, its glorious beaches, its where we hope you will find everything you need
affection for the old-time ways. to explore every aspect of T&T life
and culture.
Four sections
To help you explore these two contrasting
islands, we have divided this book into four Trinidad &
sections. The first (pages 1 – 19) provides Tobago’s tourism sTAndArds
basic practical information common to authorities run an & fEEdbAck
both Tobago and Trinidad — money matters, annual inspection
transport, headline events. The second programme
(pages 20 – 78) explores Trinidad, the larger called Trinidad &
island, with different areas of interest arranged Tobago Tourism Industry
alphabetically, from Accommodation to Sports. Certification (TTTIC). A special logo
is used to indicate approval. Current
The third section (pages 79 – 123) does the information can be found at www.
same for Tobago. The final section (pages 114 gotrinidadandtobago.com.
– 132) contains maps of both islands and their Advertising in Discover is open
biggest cities and towns. Here you will also to anybody, but publication of
find a Service Directory, listing our advertising an advertisement does not imply
partners, who are more than ready to help editorial or official endorsement,
you with any aspect of your visit; and finally a quality assurance, or participation in
page encouraging you not to leave Trinidad & the TTTIC programme.
Tobago without seeing both islands. Every effort has been made to ensure
that information is correct at press time.
our 20th anniversary But things in T&T change swiftly,
With this edition, Discover Trinidad & Tobago and we make no guarantees about
celebrates 20 years of publication. It is the only information presented. If you have
local guide to have published for so long, year any suggestions or queries, we would
in, year out. In that time we’ve produced 22 be delighted to hear from you: we take
editions, become the most sustainably produced all feedback seriously.
local guide, and worked with some of the finest
2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E wElcomE 5
5. T&T IN BRIEF
Quick facts
airports: Crown Point International Airport, (1,864 sq miles) or 105x80km (65x50 miles)
Tobago (10km/7 miles from Scarborough);
Piarco International Airport, Trinidad (27km/17 time zone: GMT -4, EST +1
miles from Port of Spain)
Government:
climate: tropical. Dry season January – May, • system: parliamentary democracy
wet June – December (islands just south of the • ruling party: the People’s Partnership
normal hurricane belt). Temperature range 72 – • prime minister: Kamla Persad-Bissessar
95°F (22 – 35°C); average 83°F (29°C) • president: George Maxwell Richards
• opposition party: People’s National
highest point: Trinidad’s El Cerro del Aripo Movement
(940m/3,085ft); Tobago’s Main Ridge
(549m/1,860ft) language: English (official)
location: 11°N, 61°W. Trinidad and Tobago Population: 1.2 million (July 2010):
33km (21 miles) apart, 10km (7 miles) from 40% Indian, 37.5% African, 21.7% mixed.
Venezuelan coast 50,000 (primarily African descent) in Tobago
size: Tobago 300km2 (116 sq miles) or religion: Roman Catholic 26%, other Christian
48x16km (30x10 miles). Trinidad 4,828km2 31.6%, Hindu 22.5%, Muslim 5.8%
A yellow poui tree in the Queen’s Park Savannah (Nisha Kong)
capital: the national capital is Port of Spain, above (pop 45,000, 270,000 metropolitan).
Tobago’s capital is Scarborough (pop 17,000)
2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T&T In brIEf 7
6. PUblIc wI-fI
ArEAs
Media and communications
Piarco
country phone code: +868 Press: three daily national Airport;
newspapers (Express, Rituals coffee shops
mail: TTPost (national mail Guardian, Newsday), seven (nationwide); Sweet
service); plus FedEx, DHL, weeklies (including Tobago Lime Restaurant
UPS and others News), one tri-weekly (Woodbrook); Trincity
Mall (food court); and
landline telephone: radio: 37 FM stations; two a growing number of
Telecommunications Services AM stations other locations
of Trinidad & Tobago
(TSTT) and FLOW. Prepaid Television: 12 local stations,
international phone cards five free-to-air (NCC-4, CCN
available TV6, Gayelle, CNC3 and
C-TV), seven available only
mobile telephone: bmobile via cable (ACTS, IBN, ieTV,
(TSTT) and Digicel operate on Parliament Channel, Synergy, Practicalities
GSM networks; prepaid SIM Tobago Channel 5, Win-TV);
cards available for unlocked some only available on one currency: Trinidad and
phones island Tobago dollar (TT$);
US$1=TT$6.30
driving: on the left. Trinidad
speed limits 80kph (50mph) on
highways and 55kph (34mph)
in settled areas; 50kph
(32mph) in Tobago. Seatbelts
required. Visitors can drive up
to 90 days on valid foreign/
international licence
Caribbean Airlines and Air Jamaica offer the best value
and the best travel experience. Come... fly with us.
Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz
Caribbean Airlines
Antigua • Barbados • Caracas • Guyana • Jamaica • New York/JFK
money: ABMs (ATMs), credit/
South Florida • St. Maarten • Suriname • Toronto • Trinidad & Tobago
Air Jamaica debit cards and travellers’
Fort Lauderdale • Grenada • Kingston • Montego Bay cheques in general use
Nassau • New York/JFK • Philadelphia • Toronto
Taxes: 10% room tax + 10%
service at hotels; VAT 15% on
goods and services
water: tap water safe to drink
(boil to be extra safe)
Scarlet ibis among the mangrove at Caroni Swamp (Maria Huggins)
2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T&T In
9
brIEf
7. TRAvEL TIPS
how to reach Trinidad & Tobago how to move
around in T&T
by air: scheduled flights are operated by Aeropostal, American
Airlines, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, Condor, Continental, To and from the airports:
Copa, LIAT, Monarch, Spirit, Suriname Airways, and Virgin authorised taxis operate
Atlantic. Others offer charter flights outside arrivals halls at Piarco
and Crown Point airports;
by sea: the peak cruise ship season is November – April, check the approved rates (on
with visits from Fred Olsen, Holland America, Ocean Village, display at the taxi stands)
Princess, Saga Travel, Seabourn, and Windstar lines
Private taxis: have to be
on arrival: you need a passport valid for three months beyond summoned by phone (check
your intended stay. Non-residents need documentation of Yellow Pages)
return or onward travel and a valid local address. Visas are
generally not required for visits up to 30 days. For yacht arrivals, car rental: local and
clearance certificate from the last port of call and the vessel’s international companies have
registration certificate (or authorisation for use) are required offices at the airports
water taxi: a regular water taxi service (above) links Port of Spain with San Fernando. The journey
time is around 45 minutes and the one-way fare TT$15. The service is operated by the National
Infrastructure Development Company (623-0310, nidco.co.tt). At press time, four new vessels had
joined the operation; there was discussion about adding new stops (Chaguanas, Point Fortin) and
new routes (to Venezuela and nearby islands), and the need to increase the fare to TT$20 — check
discovertnt.com for updated information.
10 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s 11
8. Tour operators: see directory Fleets of privately operated, PUblIc TAXIs
on pages 118 – 21 unscheduled maxi-taxis (12 –
buses: operate from hubs in 25 seat small vans or mini-
Port of Spain (City Gate, on buses) and route taxis (ordinary
South Quay), Chaguanas, and cars) operate specific routes, picking
King’s Wharf, San Fernando up passengers and dropping them off by request.
to most of Trinidad; and from Maxi-taxis have coloured stripes to indicate the area
Sangster’s Hill, Scarborough, they serve. Legal, registered taxis have licence plates
to most parts of Tobago. beginning with h and are unmetered, so confirm the
Many are new, articulated, fare in advance.
air-conditioned vehicles. Fares
are low; schedules can be Public taxis operate from different stands depending
checked at ptsc.co.tt on the route they take:
Inter-island ferries: see Port of Spain to: Route taxi stand:
page 136 Cascade Charlotte and Prince Streets
Chaguanas Broadway and Independence
Square
Curepe – Sangre Grande lower Henry Street
republic bank
Diego Martin/Petit Valley South Quay and Abercromby
Street
how to contact... Maraval Duke and Charlotte Streets
San Fernando Broadway and Independence
division of Tourism, Square
Tobago: 639-2125, San Juan lower Charlotte Street
visittobago.gov.tt St Ann’s/St James Hart Street
Immigration division: 625- Wrightson Road lower Chacon Street
3571 (Trinidad), 639-2681 Long Circular Road lower Chacon Street
(Tobago), immigration.gov.tt Chaguaramas Park and St Vincent Streets
Tobago House of Assembly:
639-3421, tha.gov.tt Chaguanas to:
Tourism development Couva & nearby towns higher Southern Main Road
company: 675-7034, tdc. Curepe Chaguanas Main Road
co.tt, gotrinidadandtobago. Port of Spain lower Southern Main Road
com
Tourist information offices: San Fernando to:
639-0509 (Crown Point All areas see map, page 130
Airport); 635-0934 (Cruise
Ship Complex, Tobago); 669- Scarborough to:
5196 (Piarco Airport) All areas Carrington Street
Trinidad & Tobago
government online:
ttconnect.gov.tt
12 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E T r AV E l T I P s 13
9. hISTORY
maxi-taxis: depart from City Gate on South Quay, or from the
corner of South Quay and Wrightson Road, in Port of Spain; PrEcAUTIons
in San Fernando from Queen Street or St James Street; and in
Tobago from lower Scarborough opposite the port.
Colour Route like much of the world, Pre-Columbian times
Black San Fernando – Princes Town, connections to Mayaro the islands are affected Both islands settled by Amerindian tribes migrating northwards from the South American mainland from
Blue Tobago by crime, particularly around 5,000 BC
Brown San Fernando – La Romaine – Siparia – Point Fortin Trinidad.
Green Port of Spain – Chaguanas – San Fernando
Red Port of Spain – Arima, connections to Always: drive with Separate colonies
Blanchisseuse/Matelot extreme care ... leave tobago trinidad
Yellow Port of Spain – Diego Martin – Chaguaramas valuables at home 1498 On his third voyage, Columbus 1498 Columbus lands in Trinidad, naming
or well concealed ... sights Tobago and calls it Magdalena it after the Trinity
walk in company ... 1627 – 1650 Various attempts at European 1498 – 1797 Neglected Spanish colony;
Emergency numbers lock your vehicle ... settlement Amerindians decimated
lock your room/house 1768 Tobago Assembly established late 18c French Catholic planters arrive;
Ambulance (public fire: 990 door ... close windows 1672 – 1781 British, Dutch, French jostling for Africans imported as slaves
hospitals): 811 Hyperbaric medical facility: at night or if you are control 1797 British colony
crime stoppers: 800-TIPS, 660-4369 (Roxborough, going out ... be aware 1781 French sugar colony 1838 End of slavery
crimestopperstt.com Tobago) of your surroundings 1814 British sugar colony 1845 – 1917 144,000 indentured labourers
Ems (emergency medical Office of Disaster ... raise an alarm and 1838 End of slavery imported from India
services): 624-4343 (north Preparedness: 640-1285 head to the nearest 1889 Under Trinidad control; 1858 British start trying to suppress
Trinidad), 653-4343 (south/ (Trinidad), 660-7489 (Tobago) police station if you Assembly disbanded Carnival
central Trinidad), 639-4444 Police: 999 or 555 (Trinidad); suspect you are being
(Tobago) 639-2520/5590 (Tobago) followed
never: venture A single nation
into deserted or
Sustainable travel unfamiliar areas alone
under British rule
1898 Tobago fully merged with Trinidad
Both climate change and globalisation can hit developing island ... wear extravagant 1903 “Water Riots” in Port of Spain, Red House burned down
nations particularly hard. Here’s what you can do to safeguard the jewellery ... leave 1925 First national elections, with limited franchise
islands’ natural and cultural treasures: handbags or wallets 1937 Oilfield and labour strikes
lying around ... use 1945 Universal adult suffrage
buy local: buy local CDs, books and DVDs from authorised an ABM if you sense 1945 Public emergence of steelbands
retailers (not pirated copies); and purchase locally produced food someone suspicious 1956 Internal self-government
and souvenirs (not made from endangered species) nearby (if your card
gets stuck, call the
fly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon bank immediately) Independence
dioxide emissions from your flight ... leave valuables in 1962 Independence from Britain
your car ... leave car 1970 “Black Power” uprising
mind your gas: choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs windows down when 1976 Republic within the Commonwealth
when renting (or buying) a car; drive within the speed limit; don’t stopping, especially 1980 Tobago House of Assembly restored
let your car idle; keep your tyres inflated; try to carpool; and when at night ... engage in 1990 Unsuccessful coup attempt by Afro-Islamist Jamaat al-Muslimeen
you can, walk or cycle any altercations with 2010 Most recent general election
strangers
14 T r A V E l T I P s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E HIsTorY 15
10. CALENDAR 2011 APRIL
A month for music: Pan
Jazz in de Yard (Trinidad) •
Trinidad) • Maypole Festival
(Tobago) • Rapsofest: the
Power of the Oral Traditions •
29th, in honour of St Peter,
patron saint of fishermen
• and trade unionists rally
Jazz Artists on the Greens Harvest festivals in Tobago their members in Fyzabad,
(Pigeon Point, Tobago) • (Whim, Delaford, Belle south Trinidad, on Labour
Tobago Jazz Experience Garden and Mason Hall) Day (public holiday, 19th) in
and Jazz on the Beach memory of past battles
(Tobago) • Pan in the 21st JUNE
Century (Trinidad) A heavy emphasis on Also: WeBeat Festival (St
commemoration this James, Trinidad) • Harvest
Also: the long Easter month: young Tobagonians festivals in Tobago (Lambeau,
weekend, with public celebrate island traditions Bloody Bay and Roxborough
holidays on Friday 22 and with the Junior Tobago
Monday 25: horse-racing Heritage Festival • Hindus JULY
at the Santa Rosa track in remember India’s sacred Tobago’s month: Tobago
Arima (Trinidad), goat and River Ganges with the Heritage Festival • Great
crab races in Mt Pleasant Ganga Dhaara River Fête Weekend • Prime
(Monday) and Buccoo Festival (Blanchisseuse, Minister’s Charity Golf
(Tuesday) • Point Fortin Trinidad) • Christians Classic • Charlotteville
Borough Day: a week of mark Corpus Christi (3rd, Fisherman’s Fest • South
J’Ouvert, mas, pan and a public holiday) and the Caribbean Open Golf
parties • Trade & Investment Fishermen’s Fest on the Tournament • Tobago
Convention (Trinidad) •
Goodwood harvest festival
JANUARY MARCH (Tobago) • T&T Literary
The Carnival season begins. During Carnival reaches its climax on Monday 7 Festival
the month, the parties and panyards, the and Tuesday 8, after a week of big shows
entertainers and mas camps get under way (Soca Monarch, Panorama, Dimanche Gras), MAY
in earnest and is followed by cool-downs at beaches A month of food and
and at Argyle Falls, Tobago fashion: Taste Trinidad
Also: New Year’s Day (public holiday) • & Tobago celebrates the
Sailing and cricket seasons begin • Tobago In sport: Trinidad & Tobago Golf Open • islands’ culinary skills •
Carnival Caravan • Harvest festivals in Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament Tobago stages its Culinary
Tobago (Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring Festival • Trinidad &
Garden, Plymouth, Mt Pleasant) Also: Chinese New Year on the 3rd (the Tobago Fashion Week
year of the Rabbit) • Jazz Artists on the
FEBRUARY Greens • Hindu spring festival of Phagwa Also: a public holiday for
The Carnival season – a long one this year (Holi) • Turtle nesting season begins • Indian Arrival Day on the
– is in top gear Public holiday on the 30th for Spiritual 30th, celebrating the arrival
“Shouter” Baptist Liberation Day, of the first Indians in 1845
Also: Tobago Carnival Caravan • Tobago commemorating the end of the colonial ban • Beacon Cycling Series •
Carnival Regatta (Tobago) • Harvest on the “Shouter” Baptist faith • Harvest Rainbow Cup International
OPPOSITE PAGE: Soca celebrity Machel Montano charms the kids at the children’s concert “Boy
festivals in Tobago (Hope, Adelphi, Buccoo, festivals in Tobago (Mt St George, Mason Triathlon (Tobago) • La
Boy and the Magic Drum” ABOVE: Black Rock Performers folk dancer representing “A Queen of
Franklyn, Bon Accord) Hall, Roxborough, Bon Accord) Divina Pastora (Siparia, Spirit” (CaféMoka)
16 C A L E N D A R D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T H a n n i v e r s a ry i s s u e CALENDAR 17
11. The Hindu festival of Ganga Dharaa honours the environment and Mother Ganga (Martin Farinha)
in Castara and Black Rock the start of the season (Trinidad) • National Tourism
for parang, Spanish- Week • Harvest festival in
Also: Jazz on the Hill flavoured music, which will Patience Hill, Tobago
(Trinidad) • Soca for run straight through till
Summer and other big Christmas noVEmbEr
concerts featuring local Pan is Beautiful in
and international stars • Also: the Eid-ul-Fitr holiday Trinidad, the Scarborough
Steelband Music Festival marking the end of the Muslim Cup Golf Tournament
(Trinidad) • Tourism fasting month of Ramadan • and Christmas Caravan in
Adventure Park/T&T Road Republic Day (24th, public Tobago
Trip: displays, tours, and live holiday) marks the country’s
entertainment transition into a republic in Also: Best Village
1976 • International Open competition finals • Harvest
AUGUsT Water Swim • Horse-racing festivals in Plymouth, Black
A month of nationalist classics in Arima: Royal Oak Rock, Les Coteaux, Moriah,
feeling: Emancipation Day Derby, Santa Rosa Oaks Scarborough, Montgomery
(1st, a public holiday) marks and Caribbean Champion (Tobago)
the end of slavery in 1838; Stakes (Trinidad) • Panyard
Independence Day (31st, Sensations • San Fernando dEcEmbEr
a public holiday) marks Jazz Festival (Trinidad) Christmas (public holiday,
independence from Britain • Tobago Fest: parties, 25th) dominates everything,
street parade and J’Ouvert followed immediately by
Also: the Carib Great • Tobago International Boxing Day (public holiday,
Race for powerboats, from Gospel Festival • Turtle- 26th) with its horse-racing
Trinidad to Tobago) • Arima watching season ends and parties, as minds turn to
Borough Day: J’Ouvert, next year’s Carnival
steelpan, calypso and parties ocTobEr
• Best Village Competition Staging of the hindu Also: Paramin Parang
begins, and runs through epic Ramleela prepares Festival (Trinidad) • the
November • Muhtadi the way for the festival of Muslim festival of Hosay
International Drumming Divali (public holiday, late (Trinidad) • on Assembly
Festival in Tobago • Osun October/early November) Day, the Tobago House
River Festival • Castara and its thousands of of Assembly celebrates
Fisherman’s Fête (Tobago) flickering deyas and rewards Tobagonians’
• Santa Rosa Festival achievements, with
(Arima) • Harvest festival in Also: Steelpan & Jazz exhibitions, sports and
Speyside, Tobago Festival (Trinidad) • Coast- recreation • Tobago Flying
2-Coast Adventure Race Colours (kite-flying festival in
sEPTEmbEr (Trinidad) • Amerindian Plymouth).
Towards the end of the Heritage Day, Arima • Blue
month come the ambitious Food Festival (Tobago) • Many dates are set shortly before
T&T Film Festival and European Film Festival the event, and are always subject to
change or cancellation. For more, see our Festivals sections under each island, and visit us online at www.discovertnt.com.
18 19
12. Cruise ships docked in Port of Spain for a Commonwealth
Heads of Government Meeting (Keown Thomas)
TRINIDAD
20 21
13. ACCOMMODATION The business
traveller
A weekend conference, a Carnival adventure, a search for the blue- Business hotels in Trinidad can
crowned motmot... Trinidad’s visitors have their needs and budgets, be grand or simply practical,
and the island’s accommodation stock can cater for them all. but they provide what the
businessman needs and
expects. Several of the major
brands have properties in and
around Port of Spain (Crowne The eco-adventurer
Plaza, Hilton, Holiday Inn,
Hyatt, Marriott), and there are The eco-visitors and nature enthusiasts, both scientific and
some popular independent amateur, on the other hand, get out of town quickly and head
properties like the Kapok. There for the hills and the forests. A few properties cater especially
is plenty of flexible conference for those interested in the island’s flora and fauna, its wetlands,
and meeting space in the city, its nesting turtles, and above all its magnificent variety of birds.
and a recently established Accommodation is usually close by, but is in limited supply: it
conference bureau. Excellent includes the world-famous Asa Wright Nature Centre in the hills
hotels and facilities are part above Arima.
of the reason why Trinidad
continues to be the business For more information, see the Service Directory at the back of this book, and visit
centre of the region. us online at discovertnt.com.
AVAIlAbIlITY
& PrIcEs The vacationer
hotel rooms
average City, coast or mountain? Port of Spain is not
uS$125 a night, the best base for a sun-and-sand holiday (the
guesthouses $65; famous Maracas Bay is more than half an hour’s
but discounted rates and packages drive); its visitors are after the excitement of
are often available. however, peak its music, partying, bars and nightspots, its
season is December – April, and flamboyance and its general “buzz”. Luxury
rates increase dramatically around seekers gravitate to the large hotels with
Carnival time when droves of their world-class spas and entertainment;
expatriates and tourists flock to adventurers and budget travellers stay at the
Trinidad. Book as far in advance as smaller hotels, guesthouses, and bed-and-
you can. breakfast properties. Beyond the city, the north
and northeast coasts supply most of the beach
ABOVE: Anise Resort & Spa, Sans Souci properties, smart or rustic.
22 A c c o m m o d A T I o n D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A c c o m m o d AT I o n 23
14.
15.
16.
17. ARTS &
ENTERTAINMENT
The small size of the local arts scene means that
many artists are part-time semi-professionals.
But there’s certainly no shortage of vibrancy or creativity.
T
RINIDAD
artists draw
on the
classical and
folk
traditions of Europe, Africa
and India, combining them
in original ways or adding
Email: info@aliciashouse.com
website: www.aliciashouse.com a creole touch to create new
forms that are distinctly
Trinidadian.
With limited audiences,
events often have short
runs, so if you blink you’ll
miss them. Keep a close eye
on ads and announcements
in the local media and
especially online. Facebook
has become one of the
most reliable sources for
information about current
arts and cultural events.
Most of the work not
directly related to the
Carnival arts closes down
after Christmas, when
Carnival shows and parties
take over, and resumes by
Easter. Around September,
Signal Hill Alumni Choir performing at their 25th anniversary concert at Queen’s Hall
(Keown Thomas)
2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 31
18. look out for performances on THE
of Ramleela, an epic Books frInGE Alice Yard (aliceyard.blogspot.com)
Film
adaptation of the Ramayana in Woodbrook is the backyard of a
enacted by villagers at Monique Roffey and Amanda Smyth are among local writers house that once belonged to architect The two-week annual Trinidad
open-air venues, mostly in who have published internationally successful books recently: Sean Leonard’s great-grandmother. & Tobago Film Festival in
central Trinidad. Roffey’s novel White Woman on a Green Bicycle was shortlisted Now it hosts performances and installations September screens local,
for the 2010 Orange Prize. Both visited Port of Spain to launch by local and visiting artists who work in the visual regional and international
Activity is typically their books. media, dance, music, and literature. Recently it’s been films at MovieTowne and
concentrated in or near the site of a pop-up store selling clothes and bags other venues. Trinidadian
Port of Spain, with music Book launches, readings and lectures take place at the National designed by Robert Young of The Cloth. filmmakers Horace Ové, Yao
and theatre taking place in Library, UWI, the University of Trinidad & Tobago, the National Ramesar, and Frances-Anne
venues from Chaguaramas, Museum, and at bookstores. The biggest names in local Erotic Art Week, in mid-year, features painting, Solomon have had notable
west of the capital, to literature are Nobel laureates VS Naipaul and Derek Walcott, but drawing, photography, readings and cellphone films, releases in the last few years.
the university of the there are many more. among other things. The organisers say it’s “open to
West Indies (uWI) in the any contemporary artistic exploration of our erotic Most Thursday nights there are
east. But San Fernando Look for fiction and plays from Lisa Allen-Agostini, Tony Hall, ethos”. It’s staged simultaneously at venues that free showings of art films at
has its own arts scene, Earl Lovelace, Ian McDonald, VS Naipaul, Elizabeth Nunez, Sam include a rumshop, a wine bar, and the offices of an Studio Film Club, run by artists
a long-established Selvon, and Elizabeth Walcott-Hackshaw. For writing on local advertising agency. Peter Doig and Che Lovelace.
theatre tradition, and history, culture and environment, see Michael Anthony, Lloyd
a new Academy for the Best, Anthony de Verteuil, Bridget Brereton, Gérard Besson, The local version of the Red Earth Festival trinidadandtobagofilmfestival.
Performing Arts in the CLR James, Kim Johnson, John La Rose, Julian Kenny, Eric (redearthfestival.webs.com), presented in June to com, studiofilmclub.blogspot.
works. Williams, and Discover’s sister organisation Prospect Press. coincide with World Environmental Day and of com
which Discover is a media sponsor, offers poetry,
Government-sponsored music, and clay sculpture workshops as well as
events include the annual environment-related activities.
production of Best village, Dance BELOW: National Academy for the Performing
Arts, Port of Spain
a festival of the folk arts.
The new National Academy Dance companies put on short annual seasons, usually at
for the Performing Arts in Queen’s Hall. The work runs the gamut from the experimental
Port of Spain has staged modern style of Dave Williams to the classical/European dance of
specially commissioned the Cascade Festival Ballet, and Indian dance from the Nrityanjali
shows that include Theatre. Other notable names: Noble Douglas, Astor Johnson,
steelband concerts and Metamorphosis, Carol La Chapelle, Elle Inc, and regional folk
musicals. performing groups.
Fashion and jewellery
Leading designers take part in Fashion Week T&T in mid-year, and present their own shows, often at
year-end. Leaders in the field are Heather Jones, Claudia Pegus and Meiling.
Local jewellery ranges from the shells and seeds strung together by Akilah Jaramogi (sold, along
with other local craft, at the Hotel Normandie), to the works of art wrought from gems and precious
metals by Chris Anderson, Gillian Bishop, Barbara Jardine, and Jasmine Thomas-Girvan.
32 A r T s & E n T E r T A I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 33
19. 3Canal performing at Queen’s Hall (Stephen Broadbridge)
visual arts
The National Museum (623-5941) has a small representative collection of local art which is on
show for most of the year, and a collection of watercolours by the country’s leading 19th-century
painter, Michel Jean Cazabon.
The Art Society (artsocietytt.org, 622-9827) has an annual show in November of new work that
includes paintings, drawings, and sculpture. The society also organises plein-air painting sessions
in picturesque venues, mostly in the dry season, of course.
Art exhibitions can be found, primarily between Easter and Christmas, at several established
galleries and other venues that might include an artist’s home, a restaurant, or the lobby of a
Music corporate headquarters.
Trinidad’s most popular musical exports are Choral groups such as the Marionettes and Landscape features very prominently in local painting, but there’s also abstract and avant-garde
probably the steelpan (created in Port of Spain the Lydian Singers perform local and western work to be seen. Names to look for: MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, sculptors Ralph and Vera Baney,
in the 1930s) and soca. Classic old-time classical music, sometimes accompanied Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Edward Bowen, Carlisle Chang, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Ken
calypso is still a staple on the menu at the by steelbands, which also stage occasional Crichlow, Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Che Lovelace, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy Nanan, Lisa
Nu Pub (formerly the Mas Camp) on Ariapita concerts of their own. Budding and established O’Connor, Peter Sheppard, Sundiata, and Noel Vaucrosson.
Avenue in Woodbrook, and steelpan players solo vocalists host their own recitals.
For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.
entertain audiences at competitions, festivals
and events year-round (but especially at If you’re in the mood to party, look for shows
Carnival time). by Machel Montano; Kes the Band; Destra
Garcia and Atlantik; Shurwayne Winchester
Home-grown indie music, local rock, jazz and and YOU; Faye-Ann Lyons, Bunji Garlin and the
chutney can often be heard live at bars and Asylum Band; and countless other soca stars.
restaurants. Among the most popular: sitarist Very popular gospel concerts are staged at
Mungal Patasar and his Indian-creole fusion larger venues such as the Jean Pierre Complex.
music; Orisha chantuelle Ella Andall; the rapso Coming up to Christmas, parang groups
of 3Canal and Maximus Dan; and local fusion take centre stage, playing Spanish-influenced
bands 12theband, jointpop, and Orange Sky. seasonal folk songs.
Theatre
Theatre groups mostly stage local adaptations of metropolitan comedies, and sometimes original
local work. The Centre for Creative and Festival Arts at UWI, St Augustine stages productions that
have included local and regional classics, calypso musicals, and plays based on local history. Popular
venues for plays include Queen’s Hall in Port of Spain, the CLR James Auditorium at the Cipriani
Labour College in Valsayn, Naparima Bowl in San Fernando, and the Central Bank Auditorium and
Little Carib Theatre (both under renovation). There are occasional performances and readings at the
Trinidad Theatre Workshop, founded by Nobel laureate Derek Walcott in 1959. For stand-up comedy
with a strong local flavour, sample shows by Rachel Price and Learie Joseph.
34 A r T s & E n T E r T A I n m E n T D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E A r T s & E n T E r TA I n m E n T 35
20. BEAChES THIS PAGE: Maracas Bay with Tyrico Bay in the background (Martin Farinha) OPPOSITE PAGE: Maracas Bay is the most popular beach in Trinidad (MF)
The beaches along Trinidad’s four distinct coastlines
may not rival those in Tobago, but they have everything you
need for a beach excursion.
North coast and Chaguaramas Northeast coast
maracas: the most popular and into the rainforest. The Grande rivière: perfect
beach in the north, with great Marianne River flows into the for nature-lovers. It’s the
food and facilities. A favourite bay, and is great for kayaking. second largest leatherback
for camping at Easter time. Rental accommodation turtle nesting ground in the
Hotel nearby available world (March – August).
Also good river bathing,
Tyrico: if you like the idea of scotland bay: a sheltered kayaking, rainforest hikes.
Maracas’ amenities but don’t and secluded bay in Accommodation and facilities
like crowds, this is a smaller, Chaguaramas only accessible on the beach
quieter choice nearby by boat. Calm clear water
good for snorkelling and saline (“sally”) bay: clear
las cuevas: good bathing swimming water with good swimming.
with small caves at the far end Facilities available
of the beach. Facilities onsite macqueripe bay: small
secluded bay at the end balandra bay: good
blanchisseuse: a popular of the Tucker Valley Road for swimming, and even
weekend getaway, with hiking in Chaguaramas. Recently bodysurfing at the rougher
trails to the nearby waterfall renovated, good for swimming end
36 b E A c H E s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E bEAcHEs 37
21. Pulling seine on the beach at Mayaro (Martin Farinha)
Lifeguards are
TIPS
typically on duty
& TRICKS
9am – 5pm or
10am – 6pm where
available, but not
at all beaches. Red flags
indicate unsafe bathing areas
Permits are required both for
camping and for turtle-watching
on the nation’s beaches. Contact a
reputable tour guide, your hotel,
or the Forestry Division to make
arrangements
However inviting they may look,
it’s best to avoid the beaches in
Chaguaramas, Galeota and between
Point Lisas and Point Fortin owing
to local industrialisation
Salybia: popular for surfing (November – April)
and for swimming (especially June – September).
Fringing reef off eastern end. New beach facilities
Matura: Rough waters make it inadvisable for
swimming, but in March – August it is a popular
and important leatherback turtle nesting site
East coast South & southwestern coasts
Manzanilla: bordered by distinctive coconut forest (“the Cocal”). Facilities and lifeguards available Quinam: popular south coast beach. Calm wonderful views of southwestern coast and, on
at the northern end. Large estuary and lookout where the Nariva River meets the sea. Rental waters, good for swimming. Fine brown sand clear days, neighbouring Venezuela
accommodation available disappears at high tide. A favourite for family
outings on the weekend. Facilities and hiking trails Granville: getting there is half the adventure.
Mayaro: glorious stretch of beach, the longest on the island. Popular for long weekends and public Popular on weekends and for Ash Wednesday
holidays. Sands dotted with distinctive “chip chip” shells, which protect small oceanic organisms and Columbus and Cedros bays: both stunning Carnival cool-down parties
are a local delicacy. Late-afternoon fishing ritual of “pulling seine”, bringing in the day’s catch in huge in good weather. Cedros is the widest beach on
fishing nets. Rental accommodation available the island at low tide. Quiet fishing villages with For more information, visit us online at discovertnt.com.
38 b e a C h e S D I S C O V E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T H a N N I V E R S a Ry I S S u E beaCheS 39
22. BuSINESS
A meeting-place for the Americas.
dTT:Tell us about the origins
of the TTCB, and why it was
created.
the country offers as a business and leisure
destination to a captive, influential and diverse
audience.
crf: The meetings and conference market
What facilities are available to
has always been a significant niche market
for Trinidad. In 2008 there were approximately
business travellers and conference
84,000 business and convention stopover
organisers in Trinidad (and
visitors, accounting for 19 per cent of all Tobago), and how does this make
stopovers. Globally, the meetings, incentives, the islands a preferred destination
conventions and exhibitions industry or for these people?
“business tourism” is one of the highest-
yielding inbound-tourism segments due to its Trinidad has the largest and newest conference
high per-delegate spend. infrastructure in the English-speaking Caribbean.
Many hotels offer conference facilities, including
international brands like the Hyatt Regency
What exactly is the role the
and the Hilton. We have a wide array of
TTCB plays in the business and accommodation options and events venues
tourism sectors in Trinidad & on offer, including the luxurious new Carlton
Tobago? Savannah, the new Hyatt, and the newly
X
The main focus of the bureau is increasing the
number of events, conferences and meetings
held in T&T. It is a veritable “one-stop shop”
for meeting planners. Ultimately, the goal
is boosting business-tourism revenue by
?
increasing business travellers’ length of stay,
T
We have the
and the diversity of pre- and post-conference highest buy rates Firstline FX
RINIDAD IS activities available. for your foreign
already a financial currency! Order
and information in advance so it’s
In 2009, Trinidad hosted the waiting for you
hub of the Y
5th Summit of the Americas when you land! T BU
Caribbean and a BES TES
gateway to Latin America, with a (SOTA) and the Commonwealth R A
high influx of business travellers. heads of Government Meeting
The Tourism Development (ChOGM). What were these
Call Us Visit
Company (TDC) has set up the experiences like? Corner Agra St.
Trinidad & Tobago Convention 628-1554
628-1175 & Delhi St.
Bureau (TTCB). We spoke to the T&T really has demonstrated its ability to St. James
head of the bureau, Canadian-born successfully host large meetings, conferences Mon- Fri
Chantel Ross Francois. and conventions. SOTA and CHOGM Email Us 9 am to 5 pm
provided a valuable platform to promote what
info@firstlinemoney.com
ORDER WWW.FIRSTLINEMONEY.COM
OPPOSITE PAGE: Eric Williams Financial Complex, Port of Spain
40 b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E bUsInEss 41
23. renovated Hilton, with several What sort of Hyatt, in conjunction with the
new hotel properties on the University of the West Indies.
events and
way. In Tobago, award-winning We also partnered with the
resorts like Coco Reef are ideal
conferences is the Local Organising Committee
for corporate meetings and
TTCB looking to for the FIFA Under-17 Women’s
team-building retreats. attract? World Cup last September.
This came after a hectic first
We have excellent and We’ve embarked on a diverse half of 2010, when the bureau
reliable access from major programme of promotional provided support to several
international hubs; sound activities aimed at attracting conferences and events. We
physical infrastructure; state- a range of events, from believe Trinidad & Tobago is
of-the-art telecommunications; sporting events to religious perfectly positioned to be the
attractive leisure activities; an conferences and literary meetings and conventions
exciting and diverse culture; seminars. In November 2010, centre for not just the
festivals throughout the for example, we hosted the Caribbean, but for North,
year; and warm, welcoming, International Conference on South and Central America
talented people! Caribbean Literature at the as well.
42 b U s I n E s s D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M
24. OPPOSITE PAGE: LaToya Woods, Miss Universe Trinidad & Tobago 2010, enjoys mas on the road in Tribe’s Carnival band (Keown Thomas) BELOW:
Roland St George’s costume “Fantasma”, Dimanche Gras 2010 (Atiba Williams)
CARNIvAL
You can party non-stop for weeks, dance in the streets for two
whole days, meet a monster three storeys high having a rest by the
side of the road. At Carnival time, anything can happen.
T
RINIDAD
is the source.
From On your marks…
Carnival in
Trinidad After Christmas, soca artists start churning out their “power soca”
sprang the carnivals in tunes in earnest. Calypso tents, though a dying breed, start
Notting hill, Brooklyn, showcasing local bards’ latest barbs, panyards across the country
Washington, DC, Atlanta, come alive with musicians learning their notes for the Panorama
Toronto, Miami, and competition, and the mas camps are abuzz with wirebenders,
dozens of other cities bead- and feather-stickers, costume designers, and hordes of
where West Indians gather. would-be masqueraders registering for their sections (in between
They may be larger, but running to the gym to get in shape). By the week before Carnival,
their roots are Trinidadian. the “fete jumbies” have attended almost every party for months.
44 c A r n I V A l D I S C O v E R T N T. C O M 2 0 T h A N N I v E R S A RY I S S u E c A r n I VA l 45