AKSUM UNIVERSITY
COLLEGE OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
Course Name: Garment Manufacturing Technology
Chapter three :introduction to patternmaking
Prepared by :kibrom g/her 1

• Methods of Pattern Making
1. Drafting
2. Flat paper patternmaking
3. Draping
INTRODUCTIONTO PATTERNMAKING
2

Methods of Pattern Making
1. Pattern drafting is a design process that involves taking
measurements from a person’s body or a body form, by
adding ease to these measurements, and then
transferring these measurements onto a pattern paper.
2. Flat patternmaking is a design process in which a base
block, or sloper, is used to create a pattern for a new
style. The traced copy is converted into a new style
using one or more patternmaking techniques. These
techniques include
• pivoting,
• slash and spread.
3

Methods of Pattern Making
3. Draping: is the oldest pattern making method and is generally
regarded as a creative approach. In this method a piece of two-
dimensional fabric is draped directly on a dress form or figure and
made to fit on the dress form to achieve the desired look or shape. The
fabric may conform to the basic shape of the form or be arranged
artistically
• It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a
form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric
pattern.
• Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of
the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and
sewn.
• However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.
4

Key terms in pattern making
• Fabric grain lines
• Grain. The direction in which the yarn is woven or knitted (lengthwise grain, or
warp; crosswise grain, or weft).
• Fabric grainlines are important to understand and use correctly or your garments will
not hang properly and will twist.
• The grain is very important when constructing garments since it determines how a
garment will hang, fit and appear on you.
• When fabric is woven on a loom, the first yarns that are placed on the loom are called
the warp grain or the straight grain.
• The warp grain has the most strength and the least amount of stretch in a woven
fabric because there is tension on the yarns when they are set in the loom.
• Usually, garments made of woven fabric use the warp or straight grain up and down
the body. Garments hang well when cut out of fabric this way, as long as the pattern
pieces have been made correctly.
5

Grain line
• All fabrics that are made up of yarns have grain or direction
Woven Fabric
The lengthwise yarns (sometimes called the
warp) run parallel to the selvage edge of the
fabric. They are usually more tightly twisted,
stronger, and more stable than the crosswise
yarns.
The crosswise yarns (sometimes called the
weft) are perpendicular, or at right angles to the
selvage. They are woven under and over one or
more yarns to create the fabric. These yarns are
usually somewhat more loosely twisted and
weaker than the lengthwise yarns.
Knit Fabric
Knit fabric is made by looping yarns
together. The loops create the direction or
Grain.
The lengthwise loops in a knit fabric
create ribs (sometimes called wales). They
form rows of loops and can be seen on the
right side of the fabric. Usually there is less
stretch in this direction.
The crosswise loops are called courses.
They form a row of loops that run across the
fabric. Usually the greatest stretch in a knit
fabric is in the crosswise direction. 6

Straight grain line
• Lengthwise grain (warp)
or Straight grain line .
Yarns parallel with
selvage and at right
angles to the crosswise
grain. It is the most
stable grain.
• Usually, garments made
of woven fabric use the
warp or straight grain up
and down the body.
Garments hang well
when cut out of fabric
this way, as long as the
pattern pieces have
been made correctly.
7

Cross Grainline
• Crosswise grain (weft). Yarns woven
across the fabric from selvage to
selvage. It is the filling yarn of woven
fabrics.
• After the loom has been set with warp
grain yarns you begin to weave the
weft grain yarns or cross grain. These
yarns run across the width of the fabric
from side to side or selvage to selvage
and are at a 90-degree angle or right
angle to the straight grain.
• Occasionally a garment will be cut with
the weft or cross grain
8

Pattern Grain line
• Pattern pieces have grain lines drawn on them, so they are placed on the fabric.
For the garment to be cut properly. The grain line is drawn as a straight line that
runs from edge to edge of the pattern piece, with arrows on it to distinguish it from
other lines on the pattern.
• The grainline can be drawn in various places on the pattern, depending on
whether the garment is cut on the straight, cross, or bias grain line; however, when
placing the pattern on a piece of fabric, the grain line drawn on the pattern piece is
always laid parallel to the straight grain and selvages of the fabric.
• Grainline Arrows
 Arrows placed at both ends of the grainline indicate that the top of the pattern
may be placed in either direction along the lengthwise grainline of the fabric
9

10

Direction of Grainline
• Vertical grainlines are
drawn parallel to center
for garments cut on
straight grain
Horizontal grainlines are
drawn at right angles to
center for garments cut
on crosswise grain
Bias grainlines are drawn
at an angle to center (45°
angle for true bias) for
garments cut on the bias
11

DART
Dart. A wedge-shaped cut-out in a pattern to
control the fit of a garment when stitched.
Dart legs. The two lines that converge at a
predetermined point on the pattern.
Dart intake. The amount of excess (or space)
confined between dart legs. Its purposes are to
take up excess where it is not needed and to
gradually release fabric where it is needed to
control the fit of the garment
12

Lining and Interfacing
Lining
• Lining is any fabric used on the inside of a garment that hides the construction
of the garment. It may also be used to reduce bulk in a garment, such as the
pocket lining
interfacing
• Is a stiffer fabric placed on the fabric layers to give more stability and to retain
their shape. An interfacing usually applied only to parts, such as collars, cuff etc
13

Interlining
Interlining
• Interlining is a layer of fabric inserted between the face or shell and the lining of the garment.
• Some garments have an inner layer of lining called interlining that is sandwiched between the
self fabric layer and the lining you see on the inside of a garment. An interlining might be
used to give extra weight and stability to a garment, or it might be used as insulation in cold
weather wear such as batting in a ski jacket.
14

• Seam allowance
• When sewing garment pieces together, you
should leave excess beyond them stitch line.
The excess is called seam allowance, and it
varies in width depending on the seam finish.
Most fashion manufacturers use 1/2 inch for
average seams on woven garments. A seam
allowance of 1/4 inch is used for enclosed
seams and very curvy seams such as facings
and necklines.
• Hem allowance
• To finish the raw edges of fabric on the outer
edges of garments, such as the bottom edges
of shirts, jackets, or pants, hem allowance is
added beyond the finished edges.
15

•notches
• The fashion industry uses nonverbal communication on garments in the form
of notches.
• Notches are clips or slices cut into the seam allowance on a pattern or garment
piece. These let the person sewing the garment know whether the garment
piece is for the front or back.
• If there are several garment pieces that look alike, notches may indicate which
pieces match together and what order they go in.
16

PATTERNMAKING TOOLS
Name of the tool Image Use
o Straight pins: • Dressmaker for draping and fittings.
o Fabric scissors • .
o Paper scissors
o Push pins: • For pattern manipulation and transferring
muslin patterns to paper.
o Notcher: • opening at the pattern’s edge to indicate
seam allowance, center lines, and ease
notches and to identify front and back of
patterns.
o Tracing wheels: • Pointed wheel transfers pattern shapes to
paper.
• Blunted wheel is used with carbon paper to
transfer pattern shapes to muslin.
17

rulers
Name of the tool Image Use
French curve is one of several curves used for
shaping armhole and neckline
Sleigh curve shapes necklines, armholes and
other curves, pockets, collars, and
cuffs.
Hip curve rule to shape hipline, hem, lapels.
Vary form curve to blend and shape armhole
necklines.
18

Name of the tool Image Use
Measuring tape for taking measurements
Set square This is used to draw perpendicular line that needs to
be squared out
Tailor's square-24 ruler with two arms forming a 90° angle that measures
19

body measurement
Accurate body measurements are of vital importance for obtaining
best results in cloth construction. Besides good fitting, correct
measurements can also contribute towards saving time in
constructing a garment
20

LANDMARK TERMSLANDMARK TERMS To measure accurately,
you must know where the landmarks are and
identify them point to point for specific locations.
• The following landmarks identify the parts of the
form that are referred to when measuring from
one landmark to another.
1. Center front neck
Center back neck
2. Center front waist
Center back waist
3. Bust points
4. Center front bust level (between bust points)
5. Side front (princess)
Side back (princess)
6. Mid-armhole front
Mid-armhole back (at level with plate screw)
7. Shoulder tip
8. Shoulder at neck (shoulder/neck)
9. Armhole ridge or roll line
10. Plate screw
11. Armhole plate
21

22

How to take Measurements
• How to take upper torso measurements
1. Total shoulder girth
level=__________
Measure all the way around the upper
arms and body with a tape measure,
keeping it parallel to the floor.
2.Total chest level =________
Measure all the way around the largest
circumference of the chest with a tape
measure, keeping it parallel to the floor.
3 Total abdomen level = _____________________
Measure all the way around the largest
circumference of the abdomen (usually
at the belly button level on a live
model) with a tape measure, parallel to
the floor.
4. Total waist level = ___________________________
Measure all the way around the
smallest circumference of the torso at the
natural waist.
23

5.Shoulder seam = ______________________
Measure from the high neck point to the
shoulder tip/armhole intersection along
the top of the shoulder.
6 Half the front neckline =
___________________
Measure from the high neck point around
to the pit of the neck.
7 .Center front neck to shoulder tip = _____
Measure from the pit of the neck to the shoulder tip.
8 .Half the front to mid-armhole=_________
Measure from center front to the mid-armhole point at the pin.
9 .Half the front chest = ____________________
Measure from center front along the chest level to the side seam, parallel
to the floor.
10 Half the front abdomen = _________
Measure from center front along the abdomen level to the side seam,
parallel to the floor.
11 Half the front waist = __________
Measure from center front waist over to the side seam/waist
intersection.
24

12 Half the back neckline = __________________________
Measure from the high neck point around
to the center back neck.
13 Center back neck to shoulder tip=____________
14 half way across shoulder blades =______________
The shoulder blade level is found using one fourth of the center
back measurement from the neckline to the waistline.
Using the one-fourth measurement, measure down from the
neck, and mark at center back for the shoulder blade level.
Obtain the "halfway across shoulder blades" measurement by
measuring from center back to the edge of the armhole plate
or the pin.
15 Half the back chest = _______________
Measure from center back to the side seam along the chest level,
parallel to the floor.
16 Half the back abdomen = _____________
Measure from center back along the abdomen level to the side
seam, parallel to the floor.
17 Half the back waist = ___________
Measure from center back waist over to, the side seam/waist
intersection.
25

18 Dart placement = __________
Measure from center back waist over to the side seam/waist intersection, divide by 2, and
add 1/2 inch. Write the resulting
measurement
19 Side seam length = _________
Measure from the pin placed 1 inch below the armhole plate down to the side seam/waist
intersection.
20 High neck point to front side seam = _______
Measure from the high neck point down
the front to the underarm/side seam intersection, which is
marked with a pin.
21High neck point to back side seam =______
Measure from the high neck point down
the back to the underarm/side seam intersection, which is
marked with a pin.
26

#22 Center front length=_________
Measure from the pit of the neck down the front to the waist. Do not curve
the tape measure in under the abdomen.
#23 Front total length = _________
Measure from the high neck point over the chest down to the front waist. Do
not curve the tape measure in under the abdomen
24 High neck point to front chest level=______
25 shoulder tip to center front waist =______
Measure from the shoulder tip, over the chest and down
to the center front waist. Do not curve the tape measure
in under the abdomen.
26 Center back length=___________
Measure from the back neck down to the waist.
27 Back total length = ______
Measure from the high neck point, down the back, and
to the waist.
28 Shoulder tip to center back waist =______
Measure from the shoulder tip, down the back, and to the
center back waist 27

Arm measurement
29 Total arm length = ______
Measure from the shoulder tip down the arm and around
the elbow tip to just below the wrist bone while the arm is
hanging naturally, slightly bent.
30 Underarm length = _____
Measure from the pin that is 1/4 inch below the model’s
underarm to just below the wrist bone while the arm is
held straight.
31 Forearm length = _______
Measure from just below the wrist bone up to the elbow tip
while the arm is bent.
32 Biceps circumference = _____
Measure at the largest circumference high up under the
arm while the biceps muscle is flexed, which will enlarge
the circumference.
33 Elbow circumference = ____
Measure the elbow at the widest part while the arm is bent.
34 Wrist circumference = _____
Measure around the wrist joint
35 Hand circumference = ____
Measure around the hand at the largest circumference.
29 30 31
32
33 34
35
28

lower torso and leg measurements
36 Total hip level = _______
Measure completely around the largest
circumference of the hips and buttocks,
keeping the tape measure parallel to then
floor.
37 Hip depth at center front = _______
Measure from center front waist level down to
the hip level.
#38 Hip depth at side seam=_________
Measure from the side/waist down to the hip
level along the side seam.
39 Hip depth at center back=__________
Measure from center back waist level down to
the hip level.
40 Half the front hip=__________
Measure from center front over to the side
seam at the hip
29

#41 Half the back hip=______
Measure from center back over to the side seam at the hip
level.
#42 Out seam side seam to floor=_______
Measure from the side/waist along the side seam to the floor.
Remember that if you are using a live model, he should not
be wearing any shoes.
#43 Inseam to floor =_______________
Measure from the center of the crotch straight down to the
floor. Again, the live model should not be wearing any shoes.
#44 Crotch depth=_______
To determine the crotch depth, find the difference between
#42 and #43, which gives you #44. To check this
measurement
on a live model, have him sit up straight on a flat surface, and
measure from the surface (at his crotch level) up to his waist
level along his side seam.
30

#45 Out seam to ankle=______
Measure from the side/waist down to just
above the ankle bone.
#46 Inseam to ankle = ________
Measure from the center of the crotch
down the inner leg to just above the
ankle bone.
#47 Crotch length=_______
Measure from center front waist down
between the legs and up to center back
waist. Do not pull tightly between the
buttocks.
31

48 Total thigh circumference = _____
Measure completely around the largest
circumference of the upper thigh.
49 Total calf circumference = _______
Measure completely around the largest
circumference of the upper calf.
50 Knee level from waist = _______
Measure from the side/waist down to the
middle of the knee.
51 Knee level to ankle level = ______
Measure from the middle of the knee
down to just above the ankle bone.
52 Total ankle circumference = _______
Measure completely around the smallest
circumference of the ankle just above the
ankle bone
53 Foot circumference = ________
Have the model point his toes so you can
measure around the widest part of his heel
32

33