This is a design tutorial by Judy Larson which first appeared on The Beading Gem's Journal - www.beadinggem.com. Check out the site for free tutorials, featured designers, inspirations and so much more.

1. Designer Hooks
Judy Larson
Findings can make or break
a design and most tutorials
for them are usually for
simple hooks and eyes. This
designer-style hook can be
made to match and enhance
any project, from bracelets
to necklaces. In fact, if you
turn the hook portion into
an eye loop, this would
make a great earring
finding! Just add a dangle!
The hook on this 5/8” wide and 1-3/16” long finding bends to the back so is hidden. You can turn the hook
and the connecting ring one half turn to use when the loops you connect to must be flat and visually part of
the design, as in the hook to the right.
Materials:
4” of 18 gauge round wire
up to 36” of 28 gauge round wire
Variety of beads from 2mm-5mm or one 1011mm flat coin bead
Tools:
Flat, chain and round nose pliers
6-Step barrel pliers
Flush cutter
½” mandrel
Ultra fine point Sharpie marker
Ruler
Directions: It is important to read through the directions before starting.
Step 1: Straighten
and cut a 4” piece of
18 gauge round
wire. Mark the wire
1½” in from one
end.
Step 2: Centering the mark between the two smallest steps on the 6-step barrel
pliers, bend the two wire ends down on either side of Step 2 of the pliers.
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2. Step 3: Cross the wire ends, using your fingers to push the crossed portion of the wires up to the barrel of the
pliers. This creates an eye that can be used as an attachment point to any project.
Step 4: Place the eye on a ½” mandrel. Bend the wire ends around the mandrel. Make sure that the wire that
comes from below the eye goes above the other wire on the opposite side of the mandrel.
Step 5: Use the tip of your round nose pliers to make a small loop on the end of the shorter wire. This loop
should end up exactly opposite the larger loop created in Steps 2 and 3. A line drawn from the center of one
loop to the center of the other loop should create two equal halves. Notice that it does not make any
difference which way the wires are crossed. Just make sure that your bent wire looks like one of those below
at this point. The small upper loop is on what will be the front of the hook.
Step 6:
Grasp the long wire tail
between Step 3 and 4 of the 6-Step
barrel pliers. Make sure that Step 4 is
on top and large wire loop is pushed up
to Step 3 of the pliers. Use your fingers
to push the long wire tail up and over
Step 4 of the pliers until the wire tip
almost touches the large circle.
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3. Step 7: At this point, you need to decide how you will fill the interior of the large circle.
Single Bead:
If you would like to use a single flat 10-11mm bead, you will need a 3” piece of 28 gauge
wire to attach it on either end of the hook. This is straightforward so the directions for
this are not shown here.
Bent Wire Design:
A: Sketch out the
size of the interior
of the large circle.
Draw out a few
designs. Decide on
one. Initials are a fabulous way to add
your mark to your designs. This tutorial
gives directions for the heart.
B: Straighten and cut a 2” piece of 18 gauge wire. Mark the center.
Make a 90 degree bend on that mark. Both sides MUST be of equal
length.
C: Use Step 4 of the 6-step barrel
pliers to make a curl on each
wire end. You will have to bend
the first side out of the way to do
the second side.
D: Use the tips of your round nose pliers to curl
the ends of the wires into loose spirals.
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4. E: Straighten and cut a 30” piece of 28 gauge round wire. Bend it in
half. Center the lower point of the heart just above the small lower loop
of the hook frame. Slide one 28 gauge wire end through the loop and
the other wire end through the heart.
F: Wrap each wire end once around the
heart and the lower loop, ending on the
back.
This should create three wraps
showing on the front of the hook.
G: Continue wrapping up the side of the large circle, pushing the
wraps together as you progress. When you reach the point where
the side of the heart touches the edge of the large circle, make
three wraps to secure the heart. Continue up the outer edge of the
large circle.
H: Continue wrapping the outer circle
until the wrapping is below the center of
the small upper loop. Pull the wrap wire
through the loop and back down into the
center of the large circle. Do this three
times. Trim the wrap wire off and press
the end into the space where the two 18
gauge wires cross.
I: Repeat Steps G and H to wrap the
other side. When you reach the end,
pull the wrap wire to the back and
around the hook, wrapping the hook 6
times. Trim the wrap wire off and press
the cut end into the 18 gauge hook wire.
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5. J: Use the tips of your round nose pliers to make a small loop
at the end of the hook. Bend the hook to the back side as
shown. You will want to lift the hook end slightly away from
the circle and heart to make it easier to slide onto a ring or
loop on the other end of the project you will be using it on.
You can be done now, or add a decorative bead as shown in
the next few steps.
K: Center a 3mm bead on a 6” piece of 28 gauge wire. Bend the wire down
on either side of the bead.
L: Slide the wire ends into the loops on either side of the top of the heart.
M: Cross the 28 gauge wires and pull the ends back up through the small
heart loops. Pull one wire end through the bead and back down through
the small loop to the back of the hook. Pull it back to the front.
N: Use the tips of your round nose pliers to gently press the 28 gauge wires
together below the bead.
O: Wrap the each wire 4-5 times tightly
around the pressed in wires at the base of the
bead, creating a “nest.” Trim the wires off and
tuck the ends under the base of the wire
wraps.
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6. Bead Filled Circle Hook:
A: Bend the hook wire down
into its final position behind
the circle. This will help you
decide where to position the
smaller beads. If you put
larger beads behind the hook,
you will have to bend it
farther away from the back of
the hook, which is less
streamlined.
B: Use the tips of your round nose pliers to
make a small loop at the end of the hook. Bend
the hook slightly away from the back of the
circle. This will make it easier to wrap the
beads into place. You can press it back down
later, if needed.
C: Choose the bead you would like to use to fill your circle.
Notice that the hook end and small bottom loop on the
gemstone filled circle are twisted ¼ turn so they can be
connected to loops that need to lay flat.
D: Cut an 18” piece of 28 gauge wire. Secure the end of the wire by wrapping it
10-12 times around one side of the frame at the bottom of the hook.
E: Pull the wrap wire through the lower loop, then
through the large loop. Repeat this three to four
times.
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7. F: Continue to wrap down the other side 10-12 times. From here on, work
from the back but continually check the front. Slide beads onto the wrap wire.
In this case, the bead sizes are 2.5mm, 4mm and 2.5mm. Pull the wrap wire to
the opposite side of the large circle. Add or
subtract beads as needed.
G: Wrap large circle 6-8 times, going toward the top of the hook. Find beads
to fit the space and slide them onto the wrap wire. In this case the beads
sizes are 5mm, 3mm, 4mm and 2.5mm. Pull the wire to the opposite side of
the circle. Note: Because a domed effect was desired with these beads, the
length of strung beads for this step was just a bit long. This was not the case
with the gemstone bead hook.
H: Wrap the outer frame up toward the hook. When you reach the small loop,
secure the front and back 18 gauge wires together by wrapping 3 times through the
loop.
I: Wrap 5-6 times down the side of the outer circle
frame. Pull the wire to the left. Find a bead to fit the
space to the left and slide it onto the wrap wire. In
this case, the bead size is 3mm.
J: Wrap the wire around the beaded wire to the left of the bead
you just put on. You will be wrapping between two beads to hold
the wrap wire in place. Find a bead to fit the space to the left and
slide it onto the wrap wire. In this case, the bead size is 3mm.
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8. K: Wrap the frame 6-10 times down toward the bottom of the circle. Pull
the wire to the right. Find beads to fit the space and slide them onto the
wrap wire. In this case, the bead sizes are 5mm and 2.5mm. Wrap the wire
around the beaded wire to the right of the beads you just put on. You will
be wrapping between two beads to hold the wrap wire in place.
L: Pull the wrap wire to the right. Find a bead to fit the space slide it
onto the wrap wire. In this case, the bead size is 4mm. Wrap the outer
frame 6-8 times up toward the hook.
M: Pull the wire toward the center of the circle. Find beads to fit the
space and slide them onto the wrap wire. In this case, the bead sizes are
4mm and 2.5mm. Secure the wrap wire end by wrapping it several times
on a wire between two beads. Trim the wire tail and tuck the end
between two beads.
N: Gently push the beads
toward the outside of the
hook to create a slight dome
effect. For the gemstone
version you will not do this.
O: Adjust the hook so that it is almost flush with the back of the
beaded section. It only needs to be pulled out far enough that
you will be able to hook it to the eye end of the project you use
it on.
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