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Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 1
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 2
Abrasion Mark / Bruise / Chafe Mark /
Rub
A discolored area whre the fabric is
damaged by friction.
Possible Cause:
Scratches on the breast beam of the
loom.
Bow
The defect is characterized
by the curvature of the warp
or weft in a cloth. The cloth
is said to be warp or weft
bowed according to which
set of thread is curved.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 3
Broken End / End Out / Missing End /
Runner / Thread Out
One or more warp ends are missing in a fabric
construction
Possible Causes:
a) Bad preparation
b) Very weak or irregular yarn
c) Warp tension is too high
d) Improper working of warp stop motion
e) Bad dropper pin or shuttle, heald or
reed, race plate
f) Wrong timing of the shedding or picking
motion
g) Inadequate humidity and temperature
h) Size fly getting caught in shedding
Broken Pick / Cut
Pick / Filling Run
out / Missing Pick
A broken yarn is
partly picked and
partly broken.
Possible causes:
a) Tangled weft
yarn is
released from
the shuttle
b) Pirns winding is either too soft or too hard
c) Bobbin centre and shuttle centre are not in alignment
d) Wrong fur or eye of the shuttle
e) Shuttle run in a scratched path
f) Too heavy shuttle
g) Picking motion is too strong; wrong timing of picking and shedding motion;
wrong shuttle box adjustment; too strong beating
h) Cop feeler is out of order
i) Dull weft cutter
j) Big knot or snow ball present in the yarn
k) Weft yarn is pressed under shuttle or between shuttle or between shuttle and
swell
l) Shuttle swings during flying.
m) Heald frame is wrongly held
n) Wrong setting of the reed
o) Race plate bending
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 4
Coarse End
It is so called “ doubling “. The end,
which is twice the size of the regular
ends appears on the fabric due to two
bobbins of roving running together in
spinning.
Coarse Pick
A yarn larger in diameter than
normally being used in the
fabric.
Possible causes:
a) lashing of broken end
with adjoining end at
roving frame
b) disturbed weighting of back top rollers at roving frame and ring frame which
leads to the productin
of a very coarse yarn
due to the slippage of
material under the
back top roller
Coarse Pick
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 5
Cockled Weft / Slubby Weft
A weft wise defect which
consists of high incidence of
slubs in a portion of the fabric
Possible causes:
a) spinning room draft
slack
b) Inadequate atmospheric
conditions
c) Presence in stock of
unduly long staple yarn
Cockled Weft
Cockled Weft
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 6
Crack / Open Set
Mark
A discolored area
where the fabric is
damaged by friction
A stripe in the fabric
which compose of a
lower pick density than
the normal one. The
defect is mainly caused
by mechnical faults in
the loom.
Possible causes:
a) weak beat – up due to loose fitting of reed, loose or worn out crank, crank arm
or crank shaft bearings, loose belt or delayed engagement of clutch
b) In correct setting of release finger or take up motion
c) Weft stop motion out of order
d) Left off motion out of order
e) Wrong start and stop
Crease Mark
Crease permanently set in
the fabric during the
finishing process
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 7
Cut Selvedge / Broken Selvedge / Damaged
Selvedge / End Break Selvedge
Cuts or breaks that occur only in the selvedge
Double End / Flat / Misdraw (harness)
In plain weave fabric, the defect appears
as two parallel warp ends with equal
interlacing sequence. This is due to
incorrect sequence of drawing through the
heald eye
Possible causes:
- mistake in drawing in
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 8
Double pick
This defect is characterized by the
presence of two picks in the same
shed in a plain weave fabric
Possible causes:
Starting loom is placed on
incorrect pick after pick-out and
the loom is turned backward
before starting
Dyestain / Dye Mark / dye
Spot
The defect is characterized
by a small area of a
discoloration in the cloth
Possible causes:
Spotting of evaporated
water drop on the fabric
during dye fixation process.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 9
Float
No proper interlacement of the warp and weft
yarns over a certain area. This defect is caused
by an entanglement of adjoining ends in the
region between the healds and the fell of the
cloth
Possible causes:
a) warp threads having knots with long tail
ends
b) warp yarn undersized
c) unsatisfactory working of the warp stop
motion
d) breakage of heald on running loom
e) loom fly trapped in the front shed
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 10
Folded Selvedge
Curls and folds appear in the fabric selvedge is
very prominent after wet processing. A curled
and folded selvage during wet processing is
often slack and wavy. It exhibits a corrugated
appearance at the grey stage
Possible causes:
a) Incorrect selvedge construction which
results in low crimp in the selvedge
threads. A slack selvedge is prone to
curling and folding as the loosely held
selvedge yarns are relatively free to relax
in the counter twist direction when the
fabric is wetted during processing
b) Faulty stitching during weft processing.
Curling and folding of selvedges can be
largely avoided if the selvedge yarns have
more crimp than the yarns in the body of
the fabric.
Possible solutions:
i) In faced fabrics with drills and satins construction, they have a pronounced
tendency to curl at the selvedge. Therefore, the selvedge weave has to be
correctly chosen. It not only to give the correct selvedge crimp but also to
produce a neat edge
j) The selvedge should have a shorter warp float length than the body. An
increase in the selvedge width also generally reduces its tendency to curl
Gout
Foreign matter(s), usually lint or waste,
are being woven in fabric by accident
Possible causes:
Fly and waste dropping into the loom
during weaving, or being caught in yarn
during spinning or in raw material.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 11
Hang Pick (Hang
Shot)
A pick, caught on a
warp yarn knot for a
short distance which
produces a
triangular shaped
hole in the fabric
Possible causes:
a) harness time
too early
b) Weft tention
at beating up
is too low
c) Incorrect tied knots
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 12
Hole / Tear
It is characterized by
several adjacent severed
warp and / or weft threads
Knot
Ends of a break thread was tied with a knot in
preparation or weaving process
Knot with halo
During the dyeing process
the knot which was the
last to dry tended to wick
the dye from the
surrounding area, leaving
halo
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 13
Lashing-in / Dragging-in
Extra weft yarn is tucked into the
selvedge of the fabric. Fabric woven with
fly shuttle loom is more likely to have this
problem.
Possible Causes:
- damaged picker, box front plae and
side weft fork
- weft hanging on weft
replenishment side
- inefficient shuttle eye cutter and
temple cutter
Loopy Selvedge / Rough Selvedge/ Beaded
Selvedge
An improperly woven selvedge of uneven width
or a selvedge which contains irregular weft loops
extend beyond the outside edges.
Possible Causes
Improper control of weft tension during tuck-in
selvedge information.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 14
Loopy Weft
Weft loop is protruding out from the
cloth surface. The yarn length in the
loop is not sufficient to perform
snarling. These loops may protrude out
from both sides of the fabric. Weft
loops are essentially caused by
entanglements of threads in the warp
sheet between the reed and the fell of
the cloth.
Wavy Selvedge / Baggy Selvedge /
Loose Selvedge / Slack Selvedge
The fabric selvedge appears in a wavy,
corrugated condition
Possible Causes
- Wrong selvedge design
- Abnormal tension of selvedge warp
yarn
- Inadequate temple adjustment
- reed width much is narrower than
the weaver's beam width
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 15
Misdraw ( Colour ) /Broken Pattern
One or more ends are drawn through
harness and/or reed in a wrong color
pattern.
Misdraw ( Harness ) / Wrong Drawing-
in
Drawing of one or more ends through the
harness in an incorrect order.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 16
Misdraw ( Reed ) / Wrong Denting
One or more ends are incorrectly drawn in the reed.
Mixed End / Wrong End
Warp yarn such as incorrect twist, number
of plies, wrong colour, or from wrong yarn
lot, is different from that of normally being
used in the fabric.
Possible Causes
Weaver uses an end with different shade
for warp repair
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 17
Mispick / Wrong Pick /
Double Pick
A pick not properly
interlaced, a break in the
weave pattern
Possible Causes
- wrong pickfinding
of starting loom
after fault during
weft stop motion
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 18
Mixed Weft
This defect is
characterised by
weft bar and it is
caused by
unintentional mixing
of two or more lots
of weft yarns in
different yarn count,
twist density, blend
composition,
hairiness or colour
and lustre.
Possible Causes
- Variation in yarn count ( finer count )
- Improper function of stop motion at drawframe or in doubler winding (in case of
doubled yarn)
- roller lapping at draw frame
- sliver splitting during material withdrawal from the can at roving frame
- Variation in yarn count ( coarser count)
- broken end lashing with adjoining end at roving frame
- long overlap at the time of creel piercing at draw frame, roving frame or ring
frame
- disturbed weighting of back top rollers at roving frame and ring frame which
produce very coarse yarn due to the slippage of material under the back top
roller.
- Variation in twist density
- spindle tape riding over wharve flange
- excessive slack spindle tape
- inadequate lubrication or jamming of the spindle insertion or damage insertion.it
results in an intermittent revolution of the spindle.
- binding of the inner wall of the spindle wharve against the bolster
- mix-up of spindles of incorrect wharve diameter in the same frame
- intermittent delivery rate at doubler frame because of defective top roller
- Variation in hairiness
- Worn out and damaged rings on ring frame
- mix-up of travelers of different types and size
- bent and slanting separators and disturbed balloon control rings
- excessive variation in spinning tension between spindles
- Variation in color and luster
- different color of cottons used
- differences in luster of filament yarn of different lots
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 19
Neppy
An excessive amount of neps (small
tangles and / or knots of fiber) appear on
the fabric surface
Oil Staining
Local discoloration in the fabric caused by
oil spotting
Possible Causes
- Excess drips of lubricating oil from
backrest roller and the moving
parts of the mechanical warp stop
motion
- improper work method used in
handling the doffed cloth rolls in
weaving shed
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 20
Reediness
This defect is also called "poorcover". A general
grouping of warp ends drawn through individual
dents of the reed with a fine crack showing up in
between such groups. Reediness occurs over
the entire fabric width. Reediness occurs when
the ends drawn through a reed dent do not get a
chance to spread out evenly.
Possible Causes
- insufficient tension difference between the
shed lines during beat-up
- excessive warp tension
- late shedding
Possible Solutions to minimize reediness
- troughing of the shed
- avoid high warp tension
- early shedding and
- use of fine reeds
Reppiness/ Wavy Place
It is one type of weft bar which is
characterized by the prominence of
alternate picks over small areas on the
fabric face; on the other face of the
fabric, corresponding to the same
ends, the other set of alternate picks is
seen to be prominent. These small
patches appear like cord fabrics.
Reppiness in the fabric results when,
for a number of consecutive picks, a particular set of alternate ends remains under
lower tension and hence bends more around the weft than the other set.
Possible Causes
- faulty movement of the heald shafts due to worn out machine parts in the
shedding motion
- worn out places on the cloth take-up roller causing low tension for short
durations at certain places across the cloth width
- warp tension is too low
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 21
Skew
The warp and weft yarns in a cloth,
although straight, are not at right angles
to each other. The effect is due to its
fabric structure and is not a distortion
imposed during processes subsequent to
weaving.
Slack End
One or more than one ends of yarns are
woven under insufficient tension, forming
streak or loop.
Possible Causes
- Wrong replacement of broken end
- Wrong tension adjustment in
warping
- Crossing of yarn at the droppers
due to wrong drawing-in
- Uneven size pick up
- Great difference in warp yarn
thickness by using wrong cone or
cheese
- Decreasing yarn tension after
mending the broken yarn
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 22
Smash
A relatively large hole in the
cloth which is characterized
by many broken warp ends
and floating picks.
Possible Causes
- weft carrier is trapped
in the shed; harness
strap breakage
Soiled End
During weaving process, one or more
than one ends have been contaminated
by dirt or grease .
Possible Causes
- handling material with dirty hands
by the weaver /mechanics
- Weaver / mechanics handle
material with dirty hands
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 23
Starting Mark / Set Mark
This defect happens weftwise,
it can also defined as " an
unevenness during beating-up
of the weft". This defect is
difficult to detect even counting
the picks under the counting
glass. The best way to detect
this fault is to view the fabric
from as many angles as
possible.
Possible Causes of Set Marks
- lower velocity and different behaviour of the loom at the last pick before
machine stoppage and at the first pick after starting the loom. It gives way to
reed beat-ups with lower force amplitude
- inaccurate or nonsynchronized starting of warp yarn delivery or fabric take-up
after loom restarting
- stress relaxation of warp yarn and fabric during loom stoppage.
Temple Mark
Yarns are distorted from their true paths
and fine holes are created near the
selvedges. This defect is usually found in
light fabrics.
Possible Causes
- unsuitable temple choice
- bad temple burrs
- worn out or damaged temple ring
needles
- play in the rings
- improper alignment of temple and
tight rings
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 24
Thin Filling Bar /
Stop Mark / Thin
Place / Bang-off
A fillingwise band or
bar either across the
full width of the cloth
or a portion of the
fabric. The area
contains less than
the normal number
of picks.
Possible Causes:
- Weak beat-up at restart after prolonged loom stop
- Incorrect setting of let back on the take up motion;
- Let-off motion out of order
- Wrong operation by the weaver on weft stop
Tight End
Fabric structure is slightly disturbed owing
to a warp end being woven under
excessive tension
Possible Causes
- Wrong tension of adhered warp
yarn
- Yarn is being abraded due to
scratching on bad guides
- High tension on warping or sizing
- Disturbance during shed closing
due to crossing ends
- Careless replacement when
mending the broken ends
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 25
Tight Pick
A single pick that is woven
under excessive tension
Possible Causes
- releasing weft yarn with
snarls, or tangles
- scratch on weft bobbin
- yarn groove on shuttle, etc.
- big knot or
snow ball in
weft yarn
Warp Streak
An elongated faulty area of fabric running
parallel to the wrap threads. The fabric
contains warp yarn which differs in
material, count, filament, twist, lustre,
tension or crimp size, colour, or shade
from the adjacent normal warp.
The term 'streak' means both edges of the
faulty area are visible and its length warp-
way is short.
Possible Causes
- Short term variation of yarn count
in warp thread.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 26
Warp Stripe
Stripes run parallel to the warp threads
and the warp threads contain warp yarn
that differs in shade from the adjacent
normal warp.
Possible Causes
- One of the warp beams in a
slasher set has been dyed to a
shade which is darker than the
rest.
- One warp beam of a slasher set
has been stained with indigo. The
stained ends are spread out according to the proportion of that beam to the
total number of beams in the set.
Weft Bar , coarse /
Set Mark / Heavy
Filling Bar / Heavy
Place
A weftwise band or bar either across the full width of the cloth or a portion, contains
picks of larger diameter than normally being used in the fabric or contains more than
the normal number of picks.
- incorrect adjustment of cloth fell position by weaver after defective weft yarns
removal.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 27
Weft Snarls / Kinky Weft
A short length of a three-fold weft yarn of which two folds are inter-twisted. Snarls may
also contain some amount of tangled yarn at one end. Snarls of the latter type are
usually located within a narrow band at almost a fixed distance from a selvedge.
Possible Causes
- Lively weft yarn
- Weft yarn rubbing between shuttle and shuttle box
Weft Streak / Barre
The faulty area in the fabric which
have a patchy appearance. The
defect contains weft yarn which
differs in material, count, filament,
twist, luster, tension or crimp size,
color, or shade from the adjacent
normal weft.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 28
Chapter – 2
Problems in
Printing
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 29
Uneven printing due to crease
on fabric
Non printed areas appear because
of crease on fabric. This is caused
by crease on fabric, bad end
stitches, too much tension during
adhesion, crease on undercloth
etc.
Poor discharge or resist printing
Poor white discharge and colored
discharge have to do with poor
conditions of discharge/resist
printing paste, color paste,
squeegee pressure, steaming.
Crack of print paste
Printed color paste cracks. The
problem occurs because poor
treatment is carried out after
printing or the viscosity of the color
paste is inappropriate.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 30
Rope mark modification
Rope and roller leave their marks
on printed cloth. It happens when
the temperatures during steaming
are too high, or the temperatures
set for finishing are too low.
Rope mark fading
The area that has touched rope or
rollers during steaming has faded
colors or stains. This problem
occurs particularly when steam is
condensed in rope or rollers.
Clip and pin miss
Tenter's clip or pin marks remain or
appear too inside. Bad clips or
pins, poorly conditioned guilder and
unusual cloth width can lead to the
problem.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 31
Shirome (unprinted area)
Some area in a motif are not
printed. The reason is that foreign
matter has been built up in the
screen mesh, or that color paste
cannot adhere to the cloth because
of yarn knot or foreign matter.
Crack marks
Unprinted part appears when the
fabric is stretched or bent. This is
caused by poor penetration of color
paste due to inappropriate viscosity
of color paste, screen mesh and
squeegee pressure.
Moire
Moire pattern appears on printed
designs. Screen mesh, the
roulettes of rollers, the line
delineation pattern have to do with
this phenomenon.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 32
Chapter – 3
Knitting faults
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 33
Bad Stripes
Definition
An unwanted horizontal bar in weft knitted fabrics.
Causes
Machine Related
l groups of yarn mispositionned in the creel
l improperly set negative or positive feed system
l improperly acting striper elements
l improperly set fabric take-down tension
l slipping take-up
l excessive speed
l improper roll density
Needle Related
l bent needles holding previous yarns on striper units
Solutions
Note whether the fabric uses coloured or only greige yarns
If the yarns are coloured
l check the yarn set-out in the creel to see if the correct colours are in the correct position
l check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend, supplier and/or merge etc. are
correct
If the yarns are undyed
l check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend, supplier and/or merge, etc. are
correct
Note whether the machine uses negative or positive feed
If the machine uses negative feed
l check for yarn trapping under packages
l check for package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, differences in yarn path and element
damage
l check for differences in yarn input tensions and yarn feeding rates
l check for relative knock-over depths between feeders and/or relative knock-over depths between
cylinder and dial
l check for incorrect spreader widths, spreader tilt and incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down
tensions If the machine uses positive feed
l check yarn input pre-tension levels for uniformity and predefined tension levels
l check for lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners
l check for individual and relative positive feed input speeds and post-unit yarn tension levels
l check positive feed units for yarns not under the belts and/or not properly wrapped on the storage
feed drums
l check for slipping, slick and worn positive feed driving belts
l check for incorrect spreader widths, spreader tilt and incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down
tensions
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 34
Barré
Definition
A horizontal defect in weft knitted fabrics appearing as light
or dark coursewise bands that can be continuous and/or
intermittent.
Causes
Yarn Related
l individual or grouped differences in
yarn friction
l optical differences between individual
and/or small groups of yarns due to
differences in Spun and Filament.
l poor knot quality
l lint build-up yarns and/or tails
l yarn contamination
l detwisting of yarn tails
l using rewound and non-rewound yarns on the same machine
Machine Related
l individual or groups of yarn mispositionned in the creel
l improperly set negative or positive feed system
l improper dial condition
l improper cylinder condition
l improperly set fabric take-down tension
Needle Related
l small groups of new needles
l small groups of mixed needles
Solutions
Locate the barré by running in coloured yarn tracers
If the barré is single course barré
l check the respective feeder for yarn placement errors
l check the respective feeder for yarn character errors
l check the respective feeder for yarn package damage
l check the respective feeder on negative feed machines for; yarn trapping, package crowding,
package misalignment, incorrect balloon height, yarn path correctness, feeder tube and other yarn path
element damage
¡ yarn input tension, yarn input speed, cam damage, relative knock-over differences on cylinder and
dial
l check the respective feeder on positive feed machines for:
¡ yarn input pre-tension level
¡ lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners
¡ individual yarns not under the positive feed tapes or not properly wrapped around the storage feed
drum
¡ slick, stretched and/or slipping tapes and/or driving belts
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 35
Knitting – Barre (Continued from previous page)
If the barré is multiple course or band barré
l check the respective feeders for yarn placement errors
l check the respective feeders for yarn character errors
l check the respective feeders for yarn package damage
l check the respective feeders on negative feed machines for:
¡ yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignment, incorrect balloon heights, incorrect yarn
paths
¡ feeder tube and other yarn path related damages
¡ grouped yarn input tension and feed rate differences, grouped cam damage and/or differences in
knockover between cylinder and dial
¡ dial tilt and/or throw-out
¡ uneven dial and/or cylinder
¡ excessive spreader widths, tilted and/or loose spreader
¡ incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down tensions
¡ check the respective feeders on positive feed machines for:
n yarn input pre-tension levels for uniformity and level
n lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners
n grouped yarn input speeds and tension levels
n groups of yarns not under the belts and/or not properly wrapped around grouped storage feed
drums
n groups of yarn fed to the wrong positive feed unit
n slipping, slick or loose positive feed units
n grouped cam damage and/or differences in knock-over between cylinder and dial feeders
n dial tilt and/or throw-out
n uneven dial and/or cylinder
n excessive spreader widths, tilted and/or loose spreader
n incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down tensions
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 36
Bowing
Definition
A fault in a weft knitted fabric consisting of an unwanted curvature in the courses in the fabric imposed
during knitting and/or subsequent processing.
Causes
Yarn Related
l shade and/or colour differences highlight bowing Machine Related
l Forward Bow
¡ knitting the fabric too loose
¡ using excessive take-down tension in the center of the fabric
¡ using an excessive spreader width
¡ using a spreader which does not pull the fabric down evenly across the full fabric width
¡ using too low a roll hardness or density
¡ "arrowheading" rolls of fabric at roll start-up
l Backward Bow
¡ knitting the fabric too loose
¡ using excessive take-down tension at both sides of the fabric
¡ using too narrow a spreader width
¡ using a spreader which does not pull the fabric down evenly across the full fabric width
¡ using too low a roll hardness or density
¡ "side-tucking" rolls of fabric at roll start-up
l Compound Bow
¡ knitting the fabric too loose
¡ using a tilted and/or unstable spreader
¡ using eccentric take-down rollers
¡ using an uneven roll up technique at roll start-up
¡ using too low a roll hardness or density
Solutions
Note whether the fabric uses coloured or only greige yarns.
Note whether the fabric exhibits forward, backward or compound bowing
l check respective yarn count(s) for faulty yarn placement by checking package stickers
l check yarn input feed rates by means of a yarn speed meter or a yarn length counter
l check spreader width and/or tilt and/or stability
l check take-down for take-down tension level and consistency
l check for the way in which the roll end is initially wound on to the roll pin
l check for roll density by comparing take-down speed and wind-on rates
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 37
Creasing
Definition
Unwanted folds in a weft knitted fabric introduced by deformation of the yarn in the fabric and/or of the
fabric structure during knitting and/or subsequant processing.
Causes
Machine Related
l knitting the fabric too loose
l using an inappropriate spreader setting
l using poor roll centering
l using an inappropriate roll hardness or density
l using an inappropriate nip roll pressure at the fabric edges
l not using a tapered take-up shaft to facilitate doffing
l enveloping rolls after doffing
Solutions
Note whether the creases occur at the sides only or in other areas of the fabric
If side creases only are noted on one or both ends
l check for spreader width, levelness, stability and type of spreader suitability
l check for roll centering
l check for nip pressure at sides of cloth
l check for proper spline roll usage
l check to see if take-down rollers have been lagged If other than only side creases are noted
l check for correctness of yarn input rates
l check for correctness of yarn count
l check for spreader width, levelness and stability
l check roll density and density consistency
l check nip pressure consistency across the full width
l check roll start-up technique suitability after doffing
l check to see that rolls are not enveloped after doffing
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 38
http://www.exeltor.com/anglais/world/guide/drop.htm 12/27/99
Dropped Stitches / Ladder
Definition
A defect in weft knitted fabric consisting of unbroken
loops of yarn
which have unintentionally been dropped by the
needles during
knitting because of yarn and/or course length
variations.
Causes
Yarn Related
l yarn variations encountered during knitting
Machine Related
l using an incorrect yarn count for the machine
gauge
l improperly set negative feed system
l improper dial condition
l improper cylinder condition
l improperly set fabric take-down tension
Needle Related
l dirt or lint behind and/or under needles
l incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count
and/or type
l new needles
l worn needles
l mixed needles
l bent needles, hooks and/or latches
l chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks
l rolled hooks
l stiff or magnetized latches
l worn, rough and/or scored needles
l bent, worn and/or scored slots
l bent, chipped and/or worn needles butts
l bouncing or vibrating needles
l bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts
Solutions
Note whether the dropped stiches occur randomly or along specific wales
If the dropped stiches occur along specific wales, identify and note whether the dropped stitches occur
on the cylinder and/or dial side of the fabric
l check for worn, tight and/or slick tricks
l check for verge and/or trick damage
l check for a loose needles retaining spring
l check for dirt and/or lint under and/or behind needles and/or sinkers
l check for proper yarn count-needle hook shape and/or size suitability
l check for needle "newness", wear and/or needle mixing
l check for bent, rough and/or chipped needles, hooks, butts and/or latches
l check for roiled hooks
l check for stiff and/or magnetized latches
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 39
Dropped Stitches / Ladder (Continues from previous page)
If the dropped stitches occur randomly
l check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend, supplier and/or merge, etc. are
correct.
Note whether the machine uses negative or positive feed.
If the machine uses negative feed
* If the machine uses negative feed
l check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn character and/or count
l check for yarn package damages and unwinding difficulties
l check for yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, yarn
path consistency, feeder tube, other yarn path element damage and wax, lint and/or oil build-ups
l check for lint between tensioning discs
l check for air turbulence difficulties
l check yarn input rates and yarn tension levels and consistency
l check for correctness of carrier settings and threading
l check for camming damage and knock-over settings
l check for dial tilt and dial height correctness
l check for needle gaiting and/or dial backlash
l check for take-down tension level and consistency
l check for spreader levelness and width correctness
l check machine speed
* If the machine uses positive feeds:
l check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn character and/or count
l check for yarn package damages and unwinding difficulties
l check for yarn input pre-tension levels and consistency
l check for wax, lint and/or oil build-ups
l check for overall yarn input speed correctness
l check for yarns not under the influence of the positive feed unit or not properly wrapped around the
storage feed drums
l check for slick, stretched and/or slipping tapes and/or driving belts
l check for tilted, damaged, dirty, loose, binding or misaligned idler wheels
l check for yarn input tension levels and consistency
l check for air turbulence difficulties
l check for camming damage and knock-over settings
l check for dial tilt and dial height correctness
l check for needle gaiting and/or backlash
l check for take-down tension level and consistency
l check for spreader levelness and width correctness
l check machine speed
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 40
Holes
Definition
A defect in weft knitted fabrics consisting of
unwanted openings in the fabric caused by yarn
breakage during knitting; small holes are normally
called pin-holes.
Causes
Yarn Related
l significant differences in yarn character
Machine Related
l using a yarn count inappropriate for the
machine gauge
l using machines with too high a feeder density
l knitting structures with an excessive number of
tuck loops
l improperly set negative or positive feed system
l improper dial condition
l improper cylinder condition
l improper needle and/or sinker timing
l using the incorrect type or size of sinker
l improperly set needle gaiting
l using a machine with too high a gauge
l disconnected, tied back or slow stop motions
l threading two yarns through one stop motion
l improperly set fabric take-down tension
Needle Related
l bent needles, hooks and/or latches
l stiff needle latches
l mixed needle sizes and/or shapes
l worn, rough or scored needles
l scored or protruding rivets or dimples
l spread or rolled needle hooks
l bent and/or scored slots
l chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks
l latches trapped in needle hooks
l bouncing or vibrating needles
Solutions
Determine, by analysis, if the holes are caused by knot related yarn breakage or only
yarn breakage Note whether the holes are large or whether they are merely pinholes. If
the holes are large, then yarn breakage probably occurred prior to fabric formation
whereas pinholes occur because of yarn breakage at or slightly after fabric formation
For large holes
l check to see that yarn count, friction, strength, uniformity and torque levels are adequate and
consistent
l check to see that knot or yarn join quality is adequate and consistent
l check to see that slubs and poor knots (and long tails) are removed prior to their reaching yarn
carrier eyelets
l check to see that the machine is properly cleaned and kept clean
l check to see that noting blocks or restricts the yarn during knitting
l check to see that all machine settings, yarn speeds, run-in ratios, yarn tension levels and machine
speeds are correct as noted on the fabric construction sheet
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 41
Holes – Knitted (Continues from previous page)
For pinholes
l check to see that yarn count, friction, strength, elongation and torque levels are
adequate and consistent
l check to see that knot or yarn join quality is adequate and consistent
l check to see that the correct yarn count-machine gauge is correct and consistent
l check to see that individual needles are causing the yarn to break because they
are defective, mixed or not under control
l check to see that individual sinkers are causing the yarn to break because they
are defective, mixed or not under control
l check to see that needle or sinker timing is correct
l check to see that the fabric take-down tension is adequate and consistent
l check to see that machine speed is not excessive
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 42
Needle Lines
Definition
A defect in weft knit fabrics consisting of
lengthwise streaks which appear parallel to
the Wales: such streaks can consist of
individual and/or multiple Wales.
Causes
Machine Related
l improper dial condition
l improper cylinder condition
Needle Related
l small groups of new needles
l small groups of mixed needles
l new needles
l mixed individual needles
l not using spacers or dummy needles or rotating needles
l dirt or lint behind and/or under needles
l incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count and/or type
l worn, rough and/or scored needles
l spread and/or rolled hooks
l bent, worn and/or scored slots
l bent needles, hooks and/or latches
l chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks
l stiff or magnetized latches
l latches strapped in hooks
l scored or protruding rivets or dimples
l bouncing or vibrating needles
l bent, chipped and/or worn needle butts
l bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts
Solutions
Determine whether the needle lines occur individually or in bands
If the needle line(s) occur on an individual wale basis, trace the needle line(s) to the appropriate
defective needle(s), examine and replace the needle(s) taking care to minimize the same problem in
the future as noted in B, C and D. Once this action has been done it should be noted that
l a wale that is not formed at all is caused by either a closed hook or a missing butt
l a wale that exhibits an extended ripped appearance in the fabric and a pile up on the needle hook is
caused by a missing latch or a damaged butt
l a wale that has a fuzzy appearance is caused by a rough or chipped needle; in addition, the needle
has lint on it in the machine
l a wale that has periodic irregularities, such as drops or holes along its length, is caused by a bent
latch or a bent hook
l a wide wale is caused by a bent or mixed needle
l a narrow wale is caused by a mixed needle
Eliminate all possible sources of yarn related problems which can cause needle breakage
l check to see that slub catchers are used in the creel
l check to see that yarn package tails do not hang down in the creel and collect lint
l check to see that a weavers knot is being used and tails are neatly clipped to 1/8th of a inch
Eliminate all possible mechanically related problems which can cause direct and/or
indirect needle breakage by making certain that mechanical adjustments do not cause
the yarns to break or the cylinder and/or dial tricks and verges to become damaged.
Re-establish and maintain proper preventative maintenance and cleaning policies once
damaged needles have been replaced so that tricks do not build-up with lint, wax
and/or oil. If a needle band occurs, trace the band to the appropriate defective, mixed
(and/or new) needles taking care to minimize the problem in the future by examining
preventative maintenance policies (i.e.,
stop motion reaction times and settings), cleaning policies and needle storage and
replacement policies.
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 43
Tuck Stitches
Definition
A defect in weft knitted fabric consisting of
unwanted held loops which can appear
randomly in the fabric and/or within specific
Wales.
Causes
Yarn Related
l yarn variations encountered during knitting
l lint build-up
Needle related
Machine Related
l using an incorrect yarn count for the
machine gauge
l using machines with too high a feeder
density
l improperly set negative or positive feed
system
l improperly acting striper elements
l improper dial condition
l improper cylinder condition
l improper needle or sinker timing
l damaged or poorly set pattern selection
device
l oil accumulations
l improperly set fabric take-down tension
l excessive speed
l new needles
l mixed needles
l incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count
and/or type
l spread or rolled needle hooks
l dirt or ling behind and/or under needles (and
sinkers)
l worn, rough and/or scored needles (and/or
sinkers)
l bent needles, hooks and/or latches
l bent, worn and/or scored slots
l stiff or magnetized latches
l scored rivets or dimples
l bent, chipped and/or worn needle butts
l bouncing or vibrating needles
l bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or
butts
Solutions: Note whether the trucking occurs randomly or along specific Wales
If the tucking occurs along specific wales, identify and note whether the dropped stitches occur on the
cylinder and/or dial side of the fabric
l check for worn, tight and/or slick tricks
l check for verge and/or trick damage
l check for a loose needle retaining spring (when applicable)
l check for dirt and/or lint under or behind the needles
l check for the proper yarn count-needle hook shape and/or size suitability
l check for needle newness, wear and/or mixing
l check for bent, rough and/or chipped needles, hooks, butts and/or latches
l check for stiff and/or magnetized latches
If the tuck stiches occur randomly
l check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn
character and/or count
l check for yarn package damages and unwinding problems
l check for yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, yarn
path consistency, feeder tube and other yarn path damage and wax, lint and/or oil build-ups
l check for lint between tensioning discs
l check for air turbulence problems
l check for input yarn tension consistency
l check for input yarn speed settings
l check for carrier setting errors and threading problems
l check dial height suitability
l check for camming damage
l check for take-down tension level and consistency
l check machine speed
Defects in Fabrics 2k210
Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 44
Dye Mark, Dye Spot, Dye Stain
In a piece dyed fabric, a discrete area of
different color
Possible causes:
By contamination with concentrated dyestuff or
dyeing assistants
Missing Plush Loops
An area in a plush fabric that is devoid of plush
loops
Possible causes:
By the malfunctioning of the loop forming
elements
SLUB
In a yarn, a thickened place having tapering
ends and a diameter several times that of the
adjacent normal yarn
Possible causes:
By the presence in the yarn of fragments of
undrafted roving or stubbing that have not
been cleared during winding
Spirality, Wale Spirality
A distortion in a weft-knitted fabric in which the
wales are clearly not at the right angles to the
courses.
Possible causes:
By twist-lively yarn (due to in-sufficient setting)
STAIN ---------------------------------------------------à
A discrete area of discoloration of a fabric
By contamination with extraneous such as dirt,
oil or crust.

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Fabric faults

  • 1. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 1
  • 2. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 2 Abrasion Mark / Bruise / Chafe Mark / Rub A discolored area whre the fabric is damaged by friction. Possible Cause: Scratches on the breast beam of the loom. Bow The defect is characterized by the curvature of the warp or weft in a cloth. The cloth is said to be warp or weft bowed according to which set of thread is curved.
  • 3. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 3 Broken End / End Out / Missing End / Runner / Thread Out One or more warp ends are missing in a fabric construction Possible Causes: a) Bad preparation b) Very weak or irregular yarn c) Warp tension is too high d) Improper working of warp stop motion e) Bad dropper pin or shuttle, heald or reed, race plate f) Wrong timing of the shedding or picking motion g) Inadequate humidity and temperature h) Size fly getting caught in shedding Broken Pick / Cut Pick / Filling Run out / Missing Pick A broken yarn is partly picked and partly broken. Possible causes: a) Tangled weft yarn is released from the shuttle b) Pirns winding is either too soft or too hard c) Bobbin centre and shuttle centre are not in alignment d) Wrong fur or eye of the shuttle e) Shuttle run in a scratched path f) Too heavy shuttle g) Picking motion is too strong; wrong timing of picking and shedding motion; wrong shuttle box adjustment; too strong beating h) Cop feeler is out of order i) Dull weft cutter j) Big knot or snow ball present in the yarn k) Weft yarn is pressed under shuttle or between shuttle or between shuttle and swell l) Shuttle swings during flying. m) Heald frame is wrongly held n) Wrong setting of the reed o) Race plate bending
  • 4. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 4 Coarse End It is so called “ doubling “. The end, which is twice the size of the regular ends appears on the fabric due to two bobbins of roving running together in spinning. Coarse Pick A yarn larger in diameter than normally being used in the fabric. Possible causes: a) lashing of broken end with adjoining end at roving frame b) disturbed weighting of back top rollers at roving frame and ring frame which leads to the productin of a very coarse yarn due to the slippage of material under the back top roller Coarse Pick
  • 5. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 5 Cockled Weft / Slubby Weft A weft wise defect which consists of high incidence of slubs in a portion of the fabric Possible causes: a) spinning room draft slack b) Inadequate atmospheric conditions c) Presence in stock of unduly long staple yarn Cockled Weft Cockled Weft
  • 6. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 6 Crack / Open Set Mark A discolored area where the fabric is damaged by friction A stripe in the fabric which compose of a lower pick density than the normal one. The defect is mainly caused by mechnical faults in the loom. Possible causes: a) weak beat – up due to loose fitting of reed, loose or worn out crank, crank arm or crank shaft bearings, loose belt or delayed engagement of clutch b) In correct setting of release finger or take up motion c) Weft stop motion out of order d) Left off motion out of order e) Wrong start and stop Crease Mark Crease permanently set in the fabric during the finishing process
  • 7. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 7 Cut Selvedge / Broken Selvedge / Damaged Selvedge / End Break Selvedge Cuts or breaks that occur only in the selvedge Double End / Flat / Misdraw (harness) In plain weave fabric, the defect appears as two parallel warp ends with equal interlacing sequence. This is due to incorrect sequence of drawing through the heald eye Possible causes: - mistake in drawing in
  • 8. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 8 Double pick This defect is characterized by the presence of two picks in the same shed in a plain weave fabric Possible causes: Starting loom is placed on incorrect pick after pick-out and the loom is turned backward before starting Dyestain / Dye Mark / dye Spot The defect is characterized by a small area of a discoloration in the cloth Possible causes: Spotting of evaporated water drop on the fabric during dye fixation process.
  • 9. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 9 Float No proper interlacement of the warp and weft yarns over a certain area. This defect is caused by an entanglement of adjoining ends in the region between the healds and the fell of the cloth Possible causes: a) warp threads having knots with long tail ends b) warp yarn undersized c) unsatisfactory working of the warp stop motion d) breakage of heald on running loom e) loom fly trapped in the front shed
  • 10. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 10 Folded Selvedge Curls and folds appear in the fabric selvedge is very prominent after wet processing. A curled and folded selvage during wet processing is often slack and wavy. It exhibits a corrugated appearance at the grey stage Possible causes: a) Incorrect selvedge construction which results in low crimp in the selvedge threads. A slack selvedge is prone to curling and folding as the loosely held selvedge yarns are relatively free to relax in the counter twist direction when the fabric is wetted during processing b) Faulty stitching during weft processing. Curling and folding of selvedges can be largely avoided if the selvedge yarns have more crimp than the yarns in the body of the fabric. Possible solutions: i) In faced fabrics with drills and satins construction, they have a pronounced tendency to curl at the selvedge. Therefore, the selvedge weave has to be correctly chosen. It not only to give the correct selvedge crimp but also to produce a neat edge j) The selvedge should have a shorter warp float length than the body. An increase in the selvedge width also generally reduces its tendency to curl Gout Foreign matter(s), usually lint or waste, are being woven in fabric by accident Possible causes: Fly and waste dropping into the loom during weaving, or being caught in yarn during spinning or in raw material.
  • 11. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 11 Hang Pick (Hang Shot) A pick, caught on a warp yarn knot for a short distance which produces a triangular shaped hole in the fabric Possible causes: a) harness time too early b) Weft tention at beating up is too low c) Incorrect tied knots
  • 12. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 12 Hole / Tear It is characterized by several adjacent severed warp and / or weft threads Knot Ends of a break thread was tied with a knot in preparation or weaving process Knot with halo During the dyeing process the knot which was the last to dry tended to wick the dye from the surrounding area, leaving halo
  • 13. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 13 Lashing-in / Dragging-in Extra weft yarn is tucked into the selvedge of the fabric. Fabric woven with fly shuttle loom is more likely to have this problem. Possible Causes: - damaged picker, box front plae and side weft fork - weft hanging on weft replenishment side - inefficient shuttle eye cutter and temple cutter Loopy Selvedge / Rough Selvedge/ Beaded Selvedge An improperly woven selvedge of uneven width or a selvedge which contains irregular weft loops extend beyond the outside edges. Possible Causes Improper control of weft tension during tuck-in selvedge information.
  • 14. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 14 Loopy Weft Weft loop is protruding out from the cloth surface. The yarn length in the loop is not sufficient to perform snarling. These loops may protrude out from both sides of the fabric. Weft loops are essentially caused by entanglements of threads in the warp sheet between the reed and the fell of the cloth. Wavy Selvedge / Baggy Selvedge / Loose Selvedge / Slack Selvedge The fabric selvedge appears in a wavy, corrugated condition Possible Causes - Wrong selvedge design - Abnormal tension of selvedge warp yarn - Inadequate temple adjustment - reed width much is narrower than the weaver's beam width
  • 15. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 15 Misdraw ( Colour ) /Broken Pattern One or more ends are drawn through harness and/or reed in a wrong color pattern. Misdraw ( Harness ) / Wrong Drawing- in Drawing of one or more ends through the harness in an incorrect order.
  • 16. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 16 Misdraw ( Reed ) / Wrong Denting One or more ends are incorrectly drawn in the reed. Mixed End / Wrong End Warp yarn such as incorrect twist, number of plies, wrong colour, or from wrong yarn lot, is different from that of normally being used in the fabric. Possible Causes Weaver uses an end with different shade for warp repair
  • 17. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 17 Mispick / Wrong Pick / Double Pick A pick not properly interlaced, a break in the weave pattern Possible Causes - wrong pickfinding of starting loom after fault during weft stop motion
  • 18. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 18 Mixed Weft This defect is characterised by weft bar and it is caused by unintentional mixing of two or more lots of weft yarns in different yarn count, twist density, blend composition, hairiness or colour and lustre. Possible Causes - Variation in yarn count ( finer count ) - Improper function of stop motion at drawframe or in doubler winding (in case of doubled yarn) - roller lapping at draw frame - sliver splitting during material withdrawal from the can at roving frame - Variation in yarn count ( coarser count) - broken end lashing with adjoining end at roving frame - long overlap at the time of creel piercing at draw frame, roving frame or ring frame - disturbed weighting of back top rollers at roving frame and ring frame which produce very coarse yarn due to the slippage of material under the back top roller. - Variation in twist density - spindle tape riding over wharve flange - excessive slack spindle tape - inadequate lubrication or jamming of the spindle insertion or damage insertion.it results in an intermittent revolution of the spindle. - binding of the inner wall of the spindle wharve against the bolster - mix-up of spindles of incorrect wharve diameter in the same frame - intermittent delivery rate at doubler frame because of defective top roller - Variation in hairiness - Worn out and damaged rings on ring frame - mix-up of travelers of different types and size - bent and slanting separators and disturbed balloon control rings - excessive variation in spinning tension between spindles - Variation in color and luster - different color of cottons used - differences in luster of filament yarn of different lots
  • 19. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 19 Neppy An excessive amount of neps (small tangles and / or knots of fiber) appear on the fabric surface Oil Staining Local discoloration in the fabric caused by oil spotting Possible Causes - Excess drips of lubricating oil from backrest roller and the moving parts of the mechanical warp stop motion - improper work method used in handling the doffed cloth rolls in weaving shed
  • 20. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 20 Reediness This defect is also called "poorcover". A general grouping of warp ends drawn through individual dents of the reed with a fine crack showing up in between such groups. Reediness occurs over the entire fabric width. Reediness occurs when the ends drawn through a reed dent do not get a chance to spread out evenly. Possible Causes - insufficient tension difference between the shed lines during beat-up - excessive warp tension - late shedding Possible Solutions to minimize reediness - troughing of the shed - avoid high warp tension - early shedding and - use of fine reeds Reppiness/ Wavy Place It is one type of weft bar which is characterized by the prominence of alternate picks over small areas on the fabric face; on the other face of the fabric, corresponding to the same ends, the other set of alternate picks is seen to be prominent. These small patches appear like cord fabrics. Reppiness in the fabric results when, for a number of consecutive picks, a particular set of alternate ends remains under lower tension and hence bends more around the weft than the other set. Possible Causes - faulty movement of the heald shafts due to worn out machine parts in the shedding motion - worn out places on the cloth take-up roller causing low tension for short durations at certain places across the cloth width - warp tension is too low
  • 21. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 21 Skew The warp and weft yarns in a cloth, although straight, are not at right angles to each other. The effect is due to its fabric structure and is not a distortion imposed during processes subsequent to weaving. Slack End One or more than one ends of yarns are woven under insufficient tension, forming streak or loop. Possible Causes - Wrong replacement of broken end - Wrong tension adjustment in warping - Crossing of yarn at the droppers due to wrong drawing-in - Uneven size pick up - Great difference in warp yarn thickness by using wrong cone or cheese - Decreasing yarn tension after mending the broken yarn
  • 22. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 22 Smash A relatively large hole in the cloth which is characterized by many broken warp ends and floating picks. Possible Causes - weft carrier is trapped in the shed; harness strap breakage Soiled End During weaving process, one or more than one ends have been contaminated by dirt or grease . Possible Causes - handling material with dirty hands by the weaver /mechanics - Weaver / mechanics handle material with dirty hands
  • 23. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 23 Starting Mark / Set Mark This defect happens weftwise, it can also defined as " an unevenness during beating-up of the weft". This defect is difficult to detect even counting the picks under the counting glass. The best way to detect this fault is to view the fabric from as many angles as possible. Possible Causes of Set Marks - lower velocity and different behaviour of the loom at the last pick before machine stoppage and at the first pick after starting the loom. It gives way to reed beat-ups with lower force amplitude - inaccurate or nonsynchronized starting of warp yarn delivery or fabric take-up after loom restarting - stress relaxation of warp yarn and fabric during loom stoppage. Temple Mark Yarns are distorted from their true paths and fine holes are created near the selvedges. This defect is usually found in light fabrics. Possible Causes - unsuitable temple choice - bad temple burrs - worn out or damaged temple ring needles - play in the rings - improper alignment of temple and tight rings
  • 24. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 24 Thin Filling Bar / Stop Mark / Thin Place / Bang-off A fillingwise band or bar either across the full width of the cloth or a portion of the fabric. The area contains less than the normal number of picks. Possible Causes: - Weak beat-up at restart after prolonged loom stop - Incorrect setting of let back on the take up motion; - Let-off motion out of order - Wrong operation by the weaver on weft stop Tight End Fabric structure is slightly disturbed owing to a warp end being woven under excessive tension Possible Causes - Wrong tension of adhered warp yarn - Yarn is being abraded due to scratching on bad guides - High tension on warping or sizing - Disturbance during shed closing due to crossing ends - Careless replacement when mending the broken ends
  • 25. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 25 Tight Pick A single pick that is woven under excessive tension Possible Causes - releasing weft yarn with snarls, or tangles - scratch on weft bobbin - yarn groove on shuttle, etc. - big knot or snow ball in weft yarn Warp Streak An elongated faulty area of fabric running parallel to the wrap threads. The fabric contains warp yarn which differs in material, count, filament, twist, lustre, tension or crimp size, colour, or shade from the adjacent normal warp. The term 'streak' means both edges of the faulty area are visible and its length warp- way is short. Possible Causes - Short term variation of yarn count in warp thread.
  • 26. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 26 Warp Stripe Stripes run parallel to the warp threads and the warp threads contain warp yarn that differs in shade from the adjacent normal warp. Possible Causes - One of the warp beams in a slasher set has been dyed to a shade which is darker than the rest. - One warp beam of a slasher set has been stained with indigo. The stained ends are spread out according to the proportion of that beam to the total number of beams in the set. Weft Bar , coarse / Set Mark / Heavy Filling Bar / Heavy Place A weftwise band or bar either across the full width of the cloth or a portion, contains picks of larger diameter than normally being used in the fabric or contains more than the normal number of picks. - incorrect adjustment of cloth fell position by weaver after defective weft yarns removal.
  • 27. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 27 Weft Snarls / Kinky Weft A short length of a three-fold weft yarn of which two folds are inter-twisted. Snarls may also contain some amount of tangled yarn at one end. Snarls of the latter type are usually located within a narrow band at almost a fixed distance from a selvedge. Possible Causes - Lively weft yarn - Weft yarn rubbing between shuttle and shuttle box Weft Streak / Barre The faulty area in the fabric which have a patchy appearance. The defect contains weft yarn which differs in material, count, filament, twist, luster, tension or crimp size, color, or shade from the adjacent normal weft.
  • 28. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 28 Chapter – 2 Problems in Printing
  • 29. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 29 Uneven printing due to crease on fabric Non printed areas appear because of crease on fabric. This is caused by crease on fabric, bad end stitches, too much tension during adhesion, crease on undercloth etc. Poor discharge or resist printing Poor white discharge and colored discharge have to do with poor conditions of discharge/resist printing paste, color paste, squeegee pressure, steaming. Crack of print paste Printed color paste cracks. The problem occurs because poor treatment is carried out after printing or the viscosity of the color paste is inappropriate.
  • 30. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 30 Rope mark modification Rope and roller leave their marks on printed cloth. It happens when the temperatures during steaming are too high, or the temperatures set for finishing are too low. Rope mark fading The area that has touched rope or rollers during steaming has faded colors or stains. This problem occurs particularly when steam is condensed in rope or rollers. Clip and pin miss Tenter's clip or pin marks remain or appear too inside. Bad clips or pins, poorly conditioned guilder and unusual cloth width can lead to the problem.
  • 31. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 31 Shirome (unprinted area) Some area in a motif are not printed. The reason is that foreign matter has been built up in the screen mesh, or that color paste cannot adhere to the cloth because of yarn knot or foreign matter. Crack marks Unprinted part appears when the fabric is stretched or bent. This is caused by poor penetration of color paste due to inappropriate viscosity of color paste, screen mesh and squeegee pressure. Moire Moire pattern appears on printed designs. Screen mesh, the roulettes of rollers, the line delineation pattern have to do with this phenomenon.
  • 32. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 32 Chapter – 3 Knitting faults
  • 33. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 33 Bad Stripes Definition An unwanted horizontal bar in weft knitted fabrics. Causes Machine Related l groups of yarn mispositionned in the creel l improperly set negative or positive feed system l improperly acting striper elements l improperly set fabric take-down tension l slipping take-up l excessive speed l improper roll density Needle Related l bent needles holding previous yarns on striper units Solutions Note whether the fabric uses coloured or only greige yarns If the yarns are coloured l check the yarn set-out in the creel to see if the correct colours are in the correct position l check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend, supplier and/or merge etc. are correct If the yarns are undyed l check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend, supplier and/or merge, etc. are correct Note whether the machine uses negative or positive feed If the machine uses negative feed l check for yarn trapping under packages l check for package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, differences in yarn path and element damage l check for differences in yarn input tensions and yarn feeding rates l check for relative knock-over depths between feeders and/or relative knock-over depths between cylinder and dial l check for incorrect spreader widths, spreader tilt and incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down tensions If the machine uses positive feed l check yarn input pre-tension levels for uniformity and predefined tension levels l check for lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners l check for individual and relative positive feed input speeds and post-unit yarn tension levels l check positive feed units for yarns not under the belts and/or not properly wrapped on the storage feed drums l check for slipping, slick and worn positive feed driving belts l check for incorrect spreader widths, spreader tilt and incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down tensions
  • 34. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 34 Barré Definition A horizontal defect in weft knitted fabrics appearing as light or dark coursewise bands that can be continuous and/or intermittent. Causes Yarn Related l individual or grouped differences in yarn friction l optical differences between individual and/or small groups of yarns due to differences in Spun and Filament. l poor knot quality l lint build-up yarns and/or tails l yarn contamination l detwisting of yarn tails l using rewound and non-rewound yarns on the same machine Machine Related l individual or groups of yarn mispositionned in the creel l improperly set negative or positive feed system l improper dial condition l improper cylinder condition l improperly set fabric take-down tension Needle Related l small groups of new needles l small groups of mixed needles Solutions Locate the barré by running in coloured yarn tracers If the barré is single course barré l check the respective feeder for yarn placement errors l check the respective feeder for yarn character errors l check the respective feeder for yarn package damage l check the respective feeder on negative feed machines for; yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignment, incorrect balloon height, yarn path correctness, feeder tube and other yarn path element damage ¡ yarn input tension, yarn input speed, cam damage, relative knock-over differences on cylinder and dial l check the respective feeder on positive feed machines for: ¡ yarn input pre-tension level ¡ lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners ¡ individual yarns not under the positive feed tapes or not properly wrapped around the storage feed drum ¡ slick, stretched and/or slipping tapes and/or driving belts
  • 35. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 35 Knitting – Barre (Continued from previous page) If the barré is multiple course or band barré l check the respective feeders for yarn placement errors l check the respective feeders for yarn character errors l check the respective feeders for yarn package damage l check the respective feeders on negative feed machines for: ¡ yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignment, incorrect balloon heights, incorrect yarn paths ¡ feeder tube and other yarn path related damages ¡ grouped yarn input tension and feed rate differences, grouped cam damage and/or differences in knockover between cylinder and dial ¡ dial tilt and/or throw-out ¡ uneven dial and/or cylinder ¡ excessive spreader widths, tilted and/or loose spreader ¡ incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down tensions ¡ check the respective feeders on positive feed machines for: n yarn input pre-tension levels for uniformity and level n lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners n grouped yarn input speeds and tension levels n groups of yarns not under the belts and/or not properly wrapped around grouped storage feed drums n groups of yarn fed to the wrong positive feed unit n slipping, slick or loose positive feed units n grouped cam damage and/or differences in knock-over between cylinder and dial feeders n dial tilt and/or throw-out n uneven dial and/or cylinder n excessive spreader widths, tilted and/or loose spreader n incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down tensions
  • 36. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 36 Bowing Definition A fault in a weft knitted fabric consisting of an unwanted curvature in the courses in the fabric imposed during knitting and/or subsequent processing. Causes Yarn Related l shade and/or colour differences highlight bowing Machine Related l Forward Bow ¡ knitting the fabric too loose ¡ using excessive take-down tension in the center of the fabric ¡ using an excessive spreader width ¡ using a spreader which does not pull the fabric down evenly across the full fabric width ¡ using too low a roll hardness or density ¡ "arrowheading" rolls of fabric at roll start-up l Backward Bow ¡ knitting the fabric too loose ¡ using excessive take-down tension at both sides of the fabric ¡ using too narrow a spreader width ¡ using a spreader which does not pull the fabric down evenly across the full fabric width ¡ using too low a roll hardness or density ¡ "side-tucking" rolls of fabric at roll start-up l Compound Bow ¡ knitting the fabric too loose ¡ using a tilted and/or unstable spreader ¡ using eccentric take-down rollers ¡ using an uneven roll up technique at roll start-up ¡ using too low a roll hardness or density Solutions Note whether the fabric uses coloured or only greige yarns. Note whether the fabric exhibits forward, backward or compound bowing l check respective yarn count(s) for faulty yarn placement by checking package stickers l check yarn input feed rates by means of a yarn speed meter or a yarn length counter l check spreader width and/or tilt and/or stability l check take-down for take-down tension level and consistency l check for the way in which the roll end is initially wound on to the roll pin l check for roll density by comparing take-down speed and wind-on rates
  • 37. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 37 Creasing Definition Unwanted folds in a weft knitted fabric introduced by deformation of the yarn in the fabric and/or of the fabric structure during knitting and/or subsequant processing. Causes Machine Related l knitting the fabric too loose l using an inappropriate spreader setting l using poor roll centering l using an inappropriate roll hardness or density l using an inappropriate nip roll pressure at the fabric edges l not using a tapered take-up shaft to facilitate doffing l enveloping rolls after doffing Solutions Note whether the creases occur at the sides only or in other areas of the fabric If side creases only are noted on one or both ends l check for spreader width, levelness, stability and type of spreader suitability l check for roll centering l check for nip pressure at sides of cloth l check for proper spline roll usage l check to see if take-down rollers have been lagged If other than only side creases are noted l check for correctness of yarn input rates l check for correctness of yarn count l check for spreader width, levelness and stability l check roll density and density consistency l check nip pressure consistency across the full width l check roll start-up technique suitability after doffing l check to see that rolls are not enveloped after doffing
  • 38. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 38 http://www.exeltor.com/anglais/world/guide/drop.htm 12/27/99 Dropped Stitches / Ladder Definition A defect in weft knitted fabric consisting of unbroken loops of yarn which have unintentionally been dropped by the needles during knitting because of yarn and/or course length variations. Causes Yarn Related l yarn variations encountered during knitting Machine Related l using an incorrect yarn count for the machine gauge l improperly set negative feed system l improper dial condition l improper cylinder condition l improperly set fabric take-down tension Needle Related l dirt or lint behind and/or under needles l incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count and/or type l new needles l worn needles l mixed needles l bent needles, hooks and/or latches l chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks l rolled hooks l stiff or magnetized latches l worn, rough and/or scored needles l bent, worn and/or scored slots l bent, chipped and/or worn needles butts l bouncing or vibrating needles l bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts Solutions Note whether the dropped stiches occur randomly or along specific wales If the dropped stiches occur along specific wales, identify and note whether the dropped stitches occur on the cylinder and/or dial side of the fabric l check for worn, tight and/or slick tricks l check for verge and/or trick damage l check for a loose needles retaining spring l check for dirt and/or lint under and/or behind needles and/or sinkers l check for proper yarn count-needle hook shape and/or size suitability l check for needle "newness", wear and/or needle mixing l check for bent, rough and/or chipped needles, hooks, butts and/or latches l check for roiled hooks l check for stiff and/or magnetized latches
  • 39. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 39 Dropped Stitches / Ladder (Continues from previous page) If the dropped stitches occur randomly l check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend, supplier and/or merge, etc. are correct. Note whether the machine uses negative or positive feed. If the machine uses negative feed * If the machine uses negative feed l check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn character and/or count l check for yarn package damages and unwinding difficulties l check for yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, yarn path consistency, feeder tube, other yarn path element damage and wax, lint and/or oil build-ups l check for lint between tensioning discs l check for air turbulence difficulties l check yarn input rates and yarn tension levels and consistency l check for correctness of carrier settings and threading l check for camming damage and knock-over settings l check for dial tilt and dial height correctness l check for needle gaiting and/or dial backlash l check for take-down tension level and consistency l check for spreader levelness and width correctness l check machine speed * If the machine uses positive feeds: l check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn character and/or count l check for yarn package damages and unwinding difficulties l check for yarn input pre-tension levels and consistency l check for wax, lint and/or oil build-ups l check for overall yarn input speed correctness l check for yarns not under the influence of the positive feed unit or not properly wrapped around the storage feed drums l check for slick, stretched and/or slipping tapes and/or driving belts l check for tilted, damaged, dirty, loose, binding or misaligned idler wheels l check for yarn input tension levels and consistency l check for air turbulence difficulties l check for camming damage and knock-over settings l check for dial tilt and dial height correctness l check for needle gaiting and/or backlash l check for take-down tension level and consistency l check for spreader levelness and width correctness l check machine speed
  • 40. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 40 Holes Definition A defect in weft knitted fabrics consisting of unwanted openings in the fabric caused by yarn breakage during knitting; small holes are normally called pin-holes. Causes Yarn Related l significant differences in yarn character Machine Related l using a yarn count inappropriate for the machine gauge l using machines with too high a feeder density l knitting structures with an excessive number of tuck loops l improperly set negative or positive feed system l improper dial condition l improper cylinder condition l improper needle and/or sinker timing l using the incorrect type or size of sinker l improperly set needle gaiting l using a machine with too high a gauge l disconnected, tied back or slow stop motions l threading two yarns through one stop motion l improperly set fabric take-down tension Needle Related l bent needles, hooks and/or latches l stiff needle latches l mixed needle sizes and/or shapes l worn, rough or scored needles l scored or protruding rivets or dimples l spread or rolled needle hooks l bent and/or scored slots l chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks l latches trapped in needle hooks l bouncing or vibrating needles Solutions Determine, by analysis, if the holes are caused by knot related yarn breakage or only yarn breakage Note whether the holes are large or whether they are merely pinholes. If the holes are large, then yarn breakage probably occurred prior to fabric formation whereas pinholes occur because of yarn breakage at or slightly after fabric formation For large holes l check to see that yarn count, friction, strength, uniformity and torque levels are adequate and consistent l check to see that knot or yarn join quality is adequate and consistent l check to see that slubs and poor knots (and long tails) are removed prior to their reaching yarn carrier eyelets l check to see that the machine is properly cleaned and kept clean l check to see that noting blocks or restricts the yarn during knitting l check to see that all machine settings, yarn speeds, run-in ratios, yarn tension levels and machine speeds are correct as noted on the fabric construction sheet
  • 41. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 41 Holes – Knitted (Continues from previous page) For pinholes l check to see that yarn count, friction, strength, elongation and torque levels are adequate and consistent l check to see that knot or yarn join quality is adequate and consistent l check to see that the correct yarn count-machine gauge is correct and consistent l check to see that individual needles are causing the yarn to break because they are defective, mixed or not under control l check to see that individual sinkers are causing the yarn to break because they are defective, mixed or not under control l check to see that needle or sinker timing is correct l check to see that the fabric take-down tension is adequate and consistent l check to see that machine speed is not excessive
  • 42. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 42 Needle Lines Definition A defect in weft knit fabrics consisting of lengthwise streaks which appear parallel to the Wales: such streaks can consist of individual and/or multiple Wales. Causes Machine Related l improper dial condition l improper cylinder condition Needle Related l small groups of new needles l small groups of mixed needles l new needles l mixed individual needles l not using spacers or dummy needles or rotating needles l dirt or lint behind and/or under needles l incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count and/or type l worn, rough and/or scored needles l spread and/or rolled hooks l bent, worn and/or scored slots l bent needles, hooks and/or latches l chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks l stiff or magnetized latches l latches strapped in hooks l scored or protruding rivets or dimples l bouncing or vibrating needles l bent, chipped and/or worn needle butts l bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts Solutions Determine whether the needle lines occur individually or in bands If the needle line(s) occur on an individual wale basis, trace the needle line(s) to the appropriate defective needle(s), examine and replace the needle(s) taking care to minimize the same problem in the future as noted in B, C and D. Once this action has been done it should be noted that l a wale that is not formed at all is caused by either a closed hook or a missing butt l a wale that exhibits an extended ripped appearance in the fabric and a pile up on the needle hook is caused by a missing latch or a damaged butt l a wale that has a fuzzy appearance is caused by a rough or chipped needle; in addition, the needle has lint on it in the machine l a wale that has periodic irregularities, such as drops or holes along its length, is caused by a bent latch or a bent hook l a wide wale is caused by a bent or mixed needle l a narrow wale is caused by a mixed needle Eliminate all possible sources of yarn related problems which can cause needle breakage l check to see that slub catchers are used in the creel l check to see that yarn package tails do not hang down in the creel and collect lint l check to see that a weavers knot is being used and tails are neatly clipped to 1/8th of a inch Eliminate all possible mechanically related problems which can cause direct and/or indirect needle breakage by making certain that mechanical adjustments do not cause the yarns to break or the cylinder and/or dial tricks and verges to become damaged. Re-establish and maintain proper preventative maintenance and cleaning policies once damaged needles have been replaced so that tricks do not build-up with lint, wax and/or oil. If a needle band occurs, trace the band to the appropriate defective, mixed (and/or new) needles taking care to minimize the problem in the future by examining preventative maintenance policies (i.e., stop motion reaction times and settings), cleaning policies and needle storage and replacement policies.
  • 43. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 43 Tuck Stitches Definition A defect in weft knitted fabric consisting of unwanted held loops which can appear randomly in the fabric and/or within specific Wales. Causes Yarn Related l yarn variations encountered during knitting l lint build-up Needle related Machine Related l using an incorrect yarn count for the machine gauge l using machines with too high a feeder density l improperly set negative or positive feed system l improperly acting striper elements l improper dial condition l improper cylinder condition l improper needle or sinker timing l damaged or poorly set pattern selection device l oil accumulations l improperly set fabric take-down tension l excessive speed l new needles l mixed needles l incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count and/or type l spread or rolled needle hooks l dirt or ling behind and/or under needles (and sinkers) l worn, rough and/or scored needles (and/or sinkers) l bent needles, hooks and/or latches l bent, worn and/or scored slots l stiff or magnetized latches l scored rivets or dimples l bent, chipped and/or worn needle butts l bouncing or vibrating needles l bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts Solutions: Note whether the trucking occurs randomly or along specific Wales If the tucking occurs along specific wales, identify and note whether the dropped stitches occur on the cylinder and/or dial side of the fabric l check for worn, tight and/or slick tricks l check for verge and/or trick damage l check for a loose needle retaining spring (when applicable) l check for dirt and/or lint under or behind the needles l check for the proper yarn count-needle hook shape and/or size suitability l check for needle newness, wear and/or mixing l check for bent, rough and/or chipped needles, hooks, butts and/or latches l check for stiff and/or magnetized latches If the tuck stiches occur randomly l check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn character and/or count l check for yarn package damages and unwinding problems l check for yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, yarn path consistency, feeder tube and other yarn path damage and wax, lint and/or oil build-ups l check for lint between tensioning discs l check for air turbulence problems l check for input yarn tension consistency l check for input yarn speed settings l check for carrier setting errors and threading problems l check dial height suitability l check for camming damage l check for take-down tension level and consistency l check machine speed
  • 44. Defects in Fabrics 2k210 Compiled by: Rauf Electronic Equipment Service 44 Dye Mark, Dye Spot, Dye Stain In a piece dyed fabric, a discrete area of different color Possible causes: By contamination with concentrated dyestuff or dyeing assistants Missing Plush Loops An area in a plush fabric that is devoid of plush loops Possible causes: By the malfunctioning of the loop forming elements SLUB In a yarn, a thickened place having tapering ends and a diameter several times that of the adjacent normal yarn Possible causes: By the presence in the yarn of fragments of undrafted roving or stubbing that have not been cleared during winding Spirality, Wale Spirality A distortion in a weft-knitted fabric in which the wales are clearly not at the right angles to the courses. Possible causes: By twist-lively yarn (due to in-sufficient setting) STAIN ---------------------------------------------------à A discrete area of discoloration of a fabric By contamination with extraneous such as dirt, oil or crust.