“Guts and Glory” was the theme of the 8th annual International Chefs Congress (ICC), which brought together hundreds of chefs, chocolate makers, sommeliers, cheese mongers, bartenders, brewers, pastry specialists, sous chefs, and other food aficionados for three-day’s worth of seminars in everything from the birth of the modern cocktail to Southern sausage making to Gouchujang in the pastry kitchen.
The event, held September 29-October 1 2013 at Super Pier in New York City, featured a variety of well-known and up-and-coming international chefs, celebrating the hard work, dedication, and collaboration that makes this industry so innovative and strong.
This presentation will cover the top trends, chefs, food, and drink from ICC 2013 through the eyes of the Symrise North America Marketing and Consumer Insights Team.
For similar content, visit http://in-sight.symrise.com
2. 2
GUTS & GLORY: STARCHEFS.COM ICC 2013
“Guts and Glory” was the theme of the 8th annual International Chefs Congress
(ICC) (http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/icc/2013), which brought together
hundreds of chefs, chocolate makers, sommeliers, cheese mongers, bartenders,
brewers, pastry specialists, sous chefs, and other food aficionados for three-day’s
worth of seminars in everything from the birth of the modern cocktail to Southern
sausage making to Gouchujang in the pastry kitchen.
The event, held September 29-October 1 at Super Pier in New York City, featured a
variety of well-known and up-and-coming international chefs, celebrating the hard
work, dedication, and collaboration that makes this industry so innovative and
strong.
Check our photo wrap-up HERE!
Among those in attendance:
Johnny Iuzzini, Sugar Fuel, Inc. (http://johnnyiuzzini.com/)
Andy Husbands, Tremont 647 (http://tremont647.com/)
Matt and Ted Lee, The Charleston Kitchen
@TheLeeBros (http://mattleeandtedlee.com/lee-bros/)
Dale DeGroff, KingCocktail.com @kingcocktl (http://www.KingCocktail.com/)
Elizabeth Falkner, formerly of Citizen Cake
@cheffalkner (http://elizabethfalkner.com/)
Janice Wong, 2 am dessert bar
@JaniceWong2am (http://www.2amdessertbar.com/)
Francois Payard, FP Pâtisserie @francoispayard (http://www.payard.com/)
Dominique Crenn, Atelier Crenn @dominiquecrenn (http://ateliercrenn.com/)
In short: it was a smorgasbord of top chefs.
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GUTS & GLORY: STARCHEFS.COM ICC 2013
A Showcase of Culinary Trends Along with the many presentations, there
was also a large sampling of food, wine, beer, and cocktails. In the spirit of
the continually evolving food truck movement, chefs from across the country
presented their dishes from moveable carts. Many of these dishes reflected
the trends on display at the Congress; chefs showcased the return to
simplicity, ethnic influences (primarily Asian and Spanish), the elevation of
barbecue to “smoke,” the increase in house-made charcuterie, and the return
of the classic cocktail. The trend towards sustainability and seasonality
continues to be a focus for most chefs, and many were extending the flavors
from last season through house-made pickling.
Evan Hennessey from Stages at One Washington (http://stages-dining.com/)
(Dover, NH) showed off his farm-to-table finesse with lacquered New
Hampshire pig leg, hay-smoked creamed corn, black garlic, heirloom
tomatoes, and marcona almonds, while Mike Isabella of the G Sandwich
Shop (http://gsandwich.com/) (Washington, D.C.) demonstrated flair for the
“new chicken” by using spiced baby goat in his sandwich (which also featured
harissa, lemon potatoes, and oregano).
Charcuterie was well represented with dishes such as venison blood
sausage, yellow eyed beans, Hoja Santa, and pickled melon from John Bates
and Brandon Martinez of the Noble Sandwich Co.
(http://noblesandwiches.com) (Austin, TX) and James Merker of Mile End
Delicatessen (http://www.mileenddeli.com) (Brooklyn, NY), who cures his own
lamb bacon for use in sandwiches and salads sold in his shop.
http://in-sight.symrise.com
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GUTS & GLORY: STARCHEFS.COM ICC 2013
Finding Inspiration
Many chefs credited travel among their primary sources of inspiration, trying to
replicate the hidden flavors and aromas of what they’ve experienced on the streets
and restaurants of Singapore, Vietnam, Thailand and China (among other locales) to
their home dishes. It’s all part of a movement to experiment with food, revive old
traditions, and to get back to basics with simple ingredients.
The bottom line
Today’s chefs are all about collaboration and getting inspiration from what they find
in their colleague's kitchen. “We’re all trying to learn from each other, master
different techniques and be on the cutting edge,” says Johnny Iuzzini of Sugar Fuel,
Inc. He credits the wide-ranging reach of the Internet and the ability to readily access
what everyone else is doing as one way to “get motivated and reach out
Janice Wong of 2AM Dessert Bar
explains how she used Symrise flavors
http://in-sight.symrise.com in her edible art
5. 5
THE SUSTAINABILITY TREND CONTINUES
It’s not easy to keep hundreds of spectators on the edge of their
seats while discussing carrot jerky. But those in attendance at the
8th Annual International Chefs Congress (ICC)
(http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/icc/2013) held in late
September in NYC were not your ordinary audience. In a large test
kitchen on the forum’s “Main Stage,” Chef Dominique Crenn of
Atelier Crenn (http://ateliercrenn.com/) (San Francisco, CA)
demonstrated her love for local, seasonal ingredients as she
explained the intricate process of curing the root vegetable.
Because, after all, "vegetable is king of the dish."
The Congress proved the farm-to-table movement and focus on
micro-regionalism continue to be important components in how
chefs create menu items and select ingredients. Many chefs noted
an intense affinity towards artisanal, seasonal products as well as
the importance of strong relationships with small growers and
farmers.
Matt & Ted Lee present a
workshop at ICC 2013
http://in-sight.symrise.com
6. 6
THE SUSTAINABILITY TREND CONTINUES
Chef and Farmer
Such was the motivation behind Chef Vivian Howard and the opening of her
restaurant, Chef and the Farmer (http://chefandthefarmer.com/) (Kingston, NC).
She was so inspired by the focus on sustainability, she moved from New York
City to her home state of North Carolina to revitalize Kingston’s farm community
and reinvigorate local appetites with her artisanal spin on traditional Southern
staples.
And at April Bloomfield’s trio of restaurants: The Spotted Pig
(http://thespottedpig.com/), The Breslin (http://thebreslin.com/), and The John
Dory Oyster Bar (http://thejohndory.com/) (all located in NYC), emphasis has
always been on what’s local. “We like to have a relationship with the products
we’re working with,” explains Christina Lecki, head chef of The Breslin during
an ICC demonstration that centered on de-boning and filleting a 30-pound
striped bass that had been caught off the coast of Long Island. “The smaller the
purveyor, the better. Having as much information about our products is part of
our standards,” she emphasizes.
This trend transcends beyond traditional entrées to desserts and yes, even
cocktails. Dale Degroff of KingCocktail.com (http://www.kingcocktail.com/) sent
out avocado—currently in season—and tequila shots during his demonstration.
Janice Wong, of 2am:Dessert Bar (http://www.2amdessertbar.com/) in
Singapore, says she was so inspired after visiting Japanese farmers producing
miso, she wanted to use the traditionally savory ingredient in her desserts,
blending it with caramel.
Chef April Bloomfield
(photo: lifestylemirror.com)
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THE SUSTAINABILITY TREND CONTINUES
Preserving the Seasons
Chefs are currently being tantalized by fall's flavors. Johnny Iuzzini of Sugar
Fuel Inc. (http://johnnyiuzzini.com/) says he’s all about Concord grapes.
Others echoed his grape obsession with Justin Walker of Earth at Hidden
Pond (http://www.earthathiddenpond.com/) (Kennebunkport, ME) noting that
he's currently experimenting with the wild variety.
Sustainability has become so important to chefs, they're turning to pickling and
fermenting techniques to extend the flavors of seasons past. This
"preservation movement" helps chefs "look back at summer's ingredients
without sacrificing freshness or quality," says Chef David Santos of Louro
(http://www.louronyc.com/) (NYC). He is currently working on his own version
of umeboshi—Japanese pickled fruit—using apricots, peaches and cherries.
Bryan Voltaggio (http://www.bryanvoltaggio.com/), Top Chef and Top Chef
Masters competitor, says seasonality and extending the life of farm fresh
vegetables by fermenting them “is better for you because there’s great taste,
and it lasts longer.” He’s presently offering fermented turnips and cabbage on
his restaurant menus. “Once I fall in love with a dish, I’ll want to put it
everywhere so everyone gets to try it,” he says. “The idea is to pack a whole
lot of flavor with simple ingredients.”
Chef Johnny Iuzzini & Sam Mason making ice
cream with liquid nitrogen on stage at ICC 2013
http://in-sight.symrise.com
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PALATABLE PROTEINS: THE NEW TRENDS IN MEAT
Summer may be over, but the grill is hotter than ever. Barbecue has risen out of
regionalism and is spreading like wildfire through the industry. So much so, that it
was one of the key points outlined by CEO and editor of StarChefs.com, Antoinette
Bruno, in her (http://www.starchefs.com/about_us/stars/html/ABruno.shtml) opening
remarks at the 8th annual International Chefs Congress (ICC) Congress.
(http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/icc/2013)
But the smoke-infused flavors of barbecue wasn’t the only trend chefs showcased—
house-made charcuteries, lamb and goat dishes, and a continued focus on
sustainability, were all evident during the three-day expo.
Smokin' BBQ Flavors
For the first time ever there was a barbecue competition—SMOKE@ICC—with 40
competitors dedicated to the art of smoke, fire, heat and meat. Chef Josh Watkins
and his team from The Carillon Restaurant (http://www.thecarillonrestaurant.com/)
(Austin, TX) "smoked" the competition with a secret ingredient—pecan shells.
Although the Texans scored the prize in the competition, chefs north of the Mason
Dixon line were also on fire. NYC Chefs like The Brooklyn Star’s Joaquin Baca
(http://thebrooklynstar.com/) and Maysville's Kyle Knall
(http://www.maysvillenyc.com/) invited expo attendees to try dishes infused with
smoke. Baca’s fried oysters and waffles featured smoked cream corn, while Knall
served up an expo favorite—smoked Yukon potato puree. Smoked whitefish
mousse, smoked lamb neck, and whole smoked trout appear currently on the
Maysville menu.
Chef Kyle Knall of Maysville
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PALATABLE PROTEINS: THE NEW TRENDS IN MEAT
The Rise of Charcuterie
Part of that smoke wave includes an increase in house-made charcuteries.
Experimentation with the cured meats has served up interesting flavor profiles. John
Bates and Brandon Martinez of Noble Sandwich Co. (http://noblesandwiches.com/)
(Austin, TX)—who served venison blood sausage, yellow-eyed beans, hoja santa
and pickled melon—feel that charcuterie is a lost art.
At his traditional German Beirhall, Chef Jeremy Nolan of Brauhaus Schmitz
(http://brauhausschmitz.com/) (Philadelphia, PA) makes his charcuterie in his own
drying room, where they usually have ten different varieties of meat being prepped at
a time. His team is currently using ingredients like juniper, caraway and paprika to
add more flavors to the meats. “We’re looking at bold flavors to create a nice
composition,” he says.
Lamb and Goat: The Protein of Choice
Lamb and goat were featured in numerous incarnations on the ICC food trucks, with
some chefs calling these meats “the new chicken.” Aaron Gottesman of Border
Springs Farm (http://www.borderspringsfarm.com/) (Philadelphia, PA) served tacos
with slow roasted American lamb and honey habanero sauce. “Lamb is a unique
protein with a unique flavor because it’s a young animal,” he says. And while
historically it’s been seasoned with Mediterranean flavors, he’s among a new crop of
chefs adding diverse flavors to complement the different cuts.
Mike Isaballa of G Sandwich (http://gsandwich.com/) (Washington, DC) offered
spiced baby goat sandwich with harissa lemon potatoes and oregano, while James
Merker of Mile End Delicatessen in Brooklyn, NY, (http://www.mileenddeli.com) was
among a bevy of chefs who combined the two trends, using lamb in various
charcuteries. Merker specifically uses the breast, smoking the meat to create lamb
bacon.
10. 10
ETHNIC INFLUENCES
If there was one word that stood out at the 8th annual International Chefs
Congress (ICC) (http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/icc/2013) held in
New York City in late September, it was “Asian,” with “Spanish” as a close
second, and “food cart-type meals” as a third. The overarching theme: Ethnic
foods are pervading chef’s kitchens as they fuse a melting pot of cultures
into their creations. Many chefs are also influenced by the street car food
found on their international travels.
Inspiration from the Far East (or Asian Rules)
Kimchi, gouchujang, and miso are high on the list of ingredients chefs are
using as are Szechuan peppercorns and yuzo. David Santos of Louro
(http://www.louronyc.com/) (NYC) is currently working on his own version of
umeboshi—Japanese pickled fruit—using apricots, peaches and cherries.
Dany Mena is fusing the flavors of Mexico City at Sembrado
(http://sembradonyc.com/) (NYC) with Asian influences with his enthusiasm
for the versatility of yuzo. He’s also really into xoconostle, a cousin of the
prickly pear that allows for several forms of acidity.
David Gilbert of Tuk Tuk Taproom (http://tuktuktaproom.com/) (San Antonio,
TX) is so enamored with Southeast Asia that he flies in ingredients to ensure
the food is really authentic. “I want the same subtle, good quality ingredients
they are using,” he says. His dish at ICC: “Tod-mn-pla,” red curry Thai fish
cake (made with flounder) served with a cucumber salad. He’s not alone.
David Myers of Hinoki & the Bird (http://hinokiandthebird.com/) (Los Angeles,
CA), brings in charcoal powder from Japan to help in the creation of a
charcoal brioche used in his restaurant’s lobster roll. He also prefers using
Japanese sweet potatoes as they hold the ingredients better after you roast
them. In his opinion, both Tokyo and Kyoto are really pushing the envelope
when it comes to food.
Chef Gaston Acurio of "Astrid y Gaston" presents 2
great dishes on the main stage.
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ETHNIC INFLUENCES
For others, all eyes are on Singapore where, according to Janice Wong of
2am Dessert Bar, the city is exploding with new restaurants. And then
there’s the street food influences of Vietnam, Thailand, and China where,
according to Gilbert, the idea is to pack a whole lot of flavor with simple
ingredients.
Sourcing from Spain
On the Spanish side, Mena says chili, whether dried or fresh, is a big
component in his kitchen while Dani Garcia, who is from the south of Spain,
says he loves using “camarones” (baby shrimp), used often in Spanish
cuisine, as they are packed with flavor. “The most important thing is flavor,”
he stresses. “Technique should always be use service of taste.”
Many chefs note they are inspired by their travels. Before opening
Sembrado, Mena traveled to Mexico City to stay true to the culinary roots.
"With Spanish cuisine, it really depends where you go, because it's
influenced by different regions, and they all tackle a dish somewhat
differently. Where you find some places making authentic corn tortillas, you
can go a few miles north (in Mexico) and find them using flour."
Chef Dani Garcia serving a dish at Eat ICC
http://in-sight.symrise.com
12. 12
RETURN ON THE CLASSIC COCKTAIL
Cocktails have moved front and center with spirit-centric bars that feature twists on
the old classics—giving them an edge, making them bolder and sexier—expanding
people’s minds and palates in the process.
Mixologist Joe Raya is part of this movement with his focus on pre-Prohibition at Gin
Joint (http://theginjoint.com/) (Charleston, SC) while Dean James of Peccadillo
(http://www.peccadillo.us/) (Carrboro, NC) dives deeper into the craft with slight
variations on a Negroni, a Manhattan and a Martini.
Seen (and tasted!) at the 8th annual International Chefs Congress (ICC): lots of rums,
gins, whiskies and bourbons used in twists on Old Fashioneds, Tom Collins and
Manhattans. Among favorites sampled: Frontier Whiskey’s Rye Manhattan
and Bittermilk’s (http://www.bittermilk.com) whiskey sour that used Bittermilk No. 3, a
smoked honey sour.
Also interesting: The “Booty Collins” made with green tea vodka, passion fruit puree,
lemon juice, simply syrup, cayenne and yohimba, from Tad Carducci and
Paul Tanguay from Tippling Bros. (http://www.tipplingbros.com/) (NYC).
According to Dale Degroff of KingCocktail.com (http://www.kingcocktail.com/), it’s all
about thinking about drinks in culinary terms, not restricting yourself to traditional
beverage ingredients, and learning to use the same “jewels” chefs use in their
kitchens. His “it” ingredient at the moment is sherry—all different varieties—as well
as souchou, ginger, and savory herbs and spices such as poncho chilies, Chinese
parsley and thyme.
Beverage master Derek Brown takes the sherry craze to more extreme proportions
with his latest venture, Mockingbird Hill (http://drinkmoresherry.com/) (Washington,
DC). The bar, which boasts more than 50 different sherries (and Iberico ham), was
inspired by the small bars of Madrid.
http://in-sight.symrise.com
13. 13
CHEFS & TRENDS: QUICK PROFILES OF WHAT’S COOKIN’
Janice Wong, 2am dessert bar, Singapore, author of Perfection
Imperfection
http://www.2amdessertbar.com/
Philosophy: “Ingredients aren’t defined as savory or sweet. It’s what you pair
with them that makes the difference. It’s all about the marriage of flavor and
not predefining them into a specific flavor category.”
Ingredients Inspired By: Miso, yuzo, quince, citrus (she made a miso and
yuzu ice cream because she liked the sweet, salty and sour combinations)
Trend She's Trying: Wong creates food as art on the plate, that changes as
each person experiences (or tastes) the piece. “Creativity means taking
things you don’t know and making them into new things.”
Current Obsession: Wong used Symrise flavorings of blueberry, strawberry
and tutti-frutti in the food art on showcase at this year's annual International
Chefs Congress (ICC).
Watch Her In Action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uhma70PiJDw and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s49RqlqrVHA
Dani Garcia, Manzanilla, NYC, author of Cooking Contradictions
http://manzanillanyc.com/
Philosophy: Using textures. “Technique should always be used in service of
taste.”
Ingredients Inspired By: Extra virgin olive oil and tomato
Trend He's Trying: Garcia made the vegetable as center of the plate as he
plated a lobster salad, olive oil popcorn and nitro gazpacho tomato. The dish
features lots of flavors “but the lobster is secondary to the olive oil popcorn
and tomato.”
Current Obsession: "Camarones" (baby shrimp) for their strong flavor and
barnacles because you get a “crazy flavor of the sea.”
Janice Wong on stage at ICC 2013
14. 14
CHEFS & TRENDS: QUICK PROFILES OF WHAT’S COOKIN’
Francois Payard, FP Pâtisserie, NYC
http://www.fppatisserie.com/
Philosophy: “In pastry, it’s always about improving tips and technique to
make it better. It’s also about the texture.”
Trend He's Trying: Payard likes to mix savory and sweet. While preparing
the puffed rice, milk chocolate, and crispy chocolate phyllo to the stylish
chocolate rice crispy treat he demonstrated at ICC, he added salt to caramel.
“You’re seeing more and more salt in pastry,” he says. "Adding salt to
caramel enhances the flavor."
Trend He Sees: A return to simplicity. “More and more we are trying to come
back to the basics because it’s all about the flavor. It’s better to be simple and
taste good, rather than be all flash and not taste good.”
Current Obsession: Caramel. “Caramel is a real flavor. It’s a lot like
chocolate or coffee. If it’s not cooked, it just tastes like water and sugar. When
it’s cooked perfectly, it becomes the flavor.”
Dominique Crenn and Juan Contreras, Atelier Crenn, San Francisco
http://ateliercrenn.com/
Philosophy: Showcasing the produce and ingredients produced from local
farms in northern California. "Some of our dishes on our menu have been
inspired by conversations with farmers."
Ingredients Inspired By: The grapes of the region. Contreras created a
dessert featuring several local grape varieties, served in half of a glass wine
bottle.
Trend They Are Trying: "Vegetable as king of the dish;" in Crenn's carrot
jerky, the root vegetable is the main focus of the dish.
Current Obsession: Bees. Contreras has been perfecting a dessert
featuring the design and flavor of honeycomb.
Chef Francois Payard with his creation at ICC 2013
15. 15
TOP 5 FOOD TRENDS
FROM STARCHEFS.COM ICC 2013
Between the worships, seminars, contests and food trucks at the 8th annual
International Chef Congress (ICC) (http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/icc/2013),
chefs from across the world echoed five distinct food trends:
• Ethnic Influences: Interest in Asian flavors and ingredients, primarily miso, yuzo,
kimchi, and Szechuan peppercorns. Chefs are inspired by the street foods of
Vietnam, Japan, and Thailand. Spanish food is also making gastronomic inroads
thanks with the use of sherry, Iberico ham, olives and more.
• Smoking Meats: Barbecue has been elevated to “smoke,” with chefs increasingly
doing their own smoking. There’s also a trend towards house-made charcuterie.
Lamb and goat seem to be the new "chicken" with different cuts of the protein
featured on menus across the country.
• Farm to Table Remains a Big Influence: Chefs prefer cooking with local
ingredients and maintaining relationships with area farmers. Sustainability remains a
top priority with many using pickling and fermenting to extend the season.
• Return of the Classic Cocktail: The trend is thinking about cocktails in culinary
terms, in venturing beyond traditional beverage ingredients to those chefs are using
in the kitchen (hello savory herbs and spices).
• Return to Simplicity: Getting back to basics was a consistent theme at ICC. It’s all
about using pure, simple ingredients with lots of flavors. Within this simplicity theme
was a nod towards nostalgia, of creating taste sensations that bring back childhood
memories.
Aki Kamozawa and Alex Talbot of "Ideas in
Food" present "In Pursuit of Maximum Flavor"
on the main stage.
http://in-sight.symrise.com
16. 16
CHECK OUT MORE
FROM STARCHEFS.COM ICC 2013
Check out all of our photos from the event at:
http://www.pinterest.com/SymriseNA/starchefscom-international-chefs-congress-2013/
Check out our complete coverage of #ICC13 at:
http://in-sight.symrise.com/tags/star-chefs-series/
For similar content visit:
http://in-sight.symrise.com
17. 17
INFORMATION, INNOVATION, INSPIRATION
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