2. Cosmetics
The word ‘‘cosmetic’’ is derived from the Greek Kosm tikos, meaning ‘‘having the
power to arrange, skilled in decorating giving kosmein, ‘‘to adorn,’’ and kosmos,
‘‘order, harmony’’
The term ‘‘cosmetic’’ is defined in Section 201 (i) of the 1938 Food, Drug, and
Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) as:
. . . 1) articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into,or
otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing,
beautifying,promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and 2) articles intended
for use as a component of any such articles; except that such term shall not include
soap…
The 13 subdivided cosmetic product categories currently recognized by the U.S.
Food & Drug Administration (FDA) for the voluntary filing of cosmetic product
ingredient composition statements are enumerated in Title 21 of the Code of Federal
Regulations.
3. Ageing skin
Skin aging is characterized by a progressive deterioration of the skin's
functional properties, linked to alterations of dermal connective tissue
due to the changes at the cell, gene and protein levels.
Skin aging can be divided into two basic processes: intrinsic aging
and photoaging .
Intrinsic ageing is natural and mainly due to the passage of time
(influence of genetic factors, oxidative stress, cellular senescence etc.)
and its consequences.
Photoageing is mainly linked with the detrimental effects of solar
exposure on the skin, although pollution, diet and smoking are also
contributing factors.
4. Effect of age on skin
1. Skin becomes rougher.
2. Skin develops lesions such as benign tumors.
3. Skin becomes slack. The loss of the elastic tissue (elastin)
in the skin with age causes the skin to hang loosely.
4. Skin becomes more transparent. This is caused by thinning
of the epidermis (surface layer of the skin).
5. Skin becomes more fragile. This is caused by a flattening
of the area where the epidermis and dermis (layer of skin
under the epidermis) come together.
6. Skin becomes more easily bruised. This is due to thinner
blood vessel walls
5. Changes below the skin includes-
1. Loss of fat below the skin in the cheeks, temples, chin, nose, and
eye area may result in loosening skin, sunken eyes, and a
"skeletal" appearance.
2. Bone loss, mostly around the mouth and chin, may become
evident after age 60 and cause puckering of the skin around the
mouth.
3. Cartilage loss in the nose causes drooping of the nasal tip and
accentuation of the bony structures in the nose
6. Anti ageing cosmetics-
Anti-aging cosmetics is a branch of cosmetics which deal with the removal
of aging and wrinkle effect on the human skin.
Anti-aging cosmetics are predominantly moisturiser-based cosmeceutical
skin care products marketed with the promise of making the consumer look
younger by reducing, masking or preventing signs of skin aging.
Anti-aging is emerging class of cosmetics which anti aging ingredients also
helps to reduce the fine lines and increasing the moisture level of the skin.
These signs are laxity (sagging), rhytids (wrinkles), and photoaging, which
includes erythema (redness), dyspigmentation (brown discolorations), solar
elastosis (yellowing), keratoses (abnormal growths), and poor texture.
8. Ingredients for anti ageing cosmetics-
Retinoids (for instance, in the form of retinyl palmitate). In various
formulations it has been shown to reduce fine lines and pores.
Epidermal growth factor, to stimulate cell renewal and collagen production
in the skin, and strengthen elasticity and structure. In various research
epidermal growth factor has been shown to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and
sagging. It also has healing (wounds and burns) and anti-inflammatory
properties when applied to skin.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids or other chemical
peels. These help to dissolve the intracellular "glue" that holds dead cells
together on the skin. The use of this type of product on a daily basis
gradually enhances the exfoliation of the epidermis. This exposes newer
skin cells and can help improve appearance. AHAs may irritate some skin,
causing redness and flaking.
9. Peptides, such as acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline), Matryxil, and copper
peptides.
UBIQUINONE (CO-ENZYME Q10) -Ubiquinone is an endogenous
antioxidant present throughout the body, including the skin.The levels
decrease with age. Topical ubiquinone replenishes the skin.
Anti-oxidants are substances that may protect cells from the damage caused
by unstable molecules known as free radicals.The studies so far are
inconclusive, but generally don’t provide strong evidence that antioxidant
supplements have a substantial impact on disease.
Sunscreens provide a high level of UVA protection against the effects of
UVA radiation, such as wrinkles.
Vitamin C is supposedly one of the most effective and commonly included
ingredients in wrinkle creams. It is also thought to help the healing process.
11. TRITERPENOIDS -There are numerous plant-derived triterpenoid
compounds and derivatives of them, with a few receiving attention in
the cosmetic area, e.g., asiatic acid, ursolic acid, medacassic acid,
oleanolic acid, betulinic acid, and boswellic acid.
Hormones-Estrogens and their diminution at menopause have
profound effects, especially on epithelium of the skin and vagina.
Wrinkle effacement has been convincingly shown in at least one
controlled clinical trail of topical application of 0.01% estradiol or
0.3% estriol-containing preparations.
Hyaluronic acid is a normal component of epidermis and especially
dermis. Stimulation of hyaluronic-acid production in skin by a device
that produces a specific pulsed electromagnetic field (electrorydesis)
produced improvement in appearance of wrinkles in a small study .
12. 1. TruSkin Naturals Vitamin C Serum
2. Amara Organics Advanced Age-Defying Moisturizer
3. Radha Beauty Miracle Retinol Moisturizer
4. Active Wow Youth Enhancing Eye Gel
5. Amara Organics Vitamin C Serum
6. Amara Organics Retinol Cream
7. Olay Regenerist Whip Face Moisturizer SPF 25
8. Dior Hydra Life Fresh Hydration Sorbet Crème
9. Aveeno Ultra-Calming Daily Moisturizer SPF 30
Some marketed antiageing
formulations-
13. Conclusion
• Skincare products now exist that have various degrees of utility for preventing,
minimizing the appearance of, or treating wrinkles caused by UVR. Conscientious
use of sunscreens can minimize photoaging and wrinkle formation. Rigorous
consumer-panel testing can show consistent improvement of the appearance of
wrinkles with many products of a purely cosmetic nature.
• Application of well-established clinical methodologies and increasingly
sophisticated instrumental techniques have conclusively shown pharmacologically
mediated wrinkle improvement, especially with topical use of retinoids or
alphahydroxy acids.
• In conclusion, the substantial scientific progress that has driven the development of
elegant cosmetic and pharmaceutically active products to ameliorate skin wrinkles
warrants optimism for the future.
• The day is not far in the future when present cosmetic and cosmeceutical treatments
will be eclipsed by specific genetic manipulations to rejuvenate aging skin.
14. 1. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology by André O. Barel
Marc Paye Howard I. Maibach,Mercel Dekker Inc.,2001,New
York,Besel,Page 543-547
2. Sahu.G, Sahu.S, Sharma.H, KumarJha.A-A Review of current and
novel Trends of Antiageing formulation ,International journal of
pharmaceutical ,chemical and biological science,2014: Volume 4 ,Issue 1 .
Page 118-125.
3. M. Juncana, C. Lungb-Formulation and optimization of antiageing
cosmetic creams, STUDIA UBB PHYSICA, Vol. 61 (LXI), 2, 2016, pp.
101‐110
Reference