2. 2
Letter of Transmittal
Engr: Md. Reajul Islam
Lecture
Daffodil International University.
102, Sukrabad , Mirpur Road, Dhaka-1207
Subject: Submission of Project Report.
Dear Sir:
We are very much happy to submit our project report on “Effects on yarn properties after yarn
conditioning” with your kind supervision and continuous guideline through out the project
period. We have collected as much information.
We believe that this project program has enriched both our knowledge and experience. We
hope that you will appreciate our effort.
Sincerely Yours,
Sumon Kumar Kundu
ID No: 071-23-377
MD.Majadul Hoque
ID No :071-23-395
Yousuf Khan
ID No. : 071-23-390
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At the beginning, we would like to thank the Almighty Allah for giving us the ability to complete
this report.
We wish thank The MAKSONS SPINNING MILL LTD. & ASIA SPINNING MILL LTD.
for their support and cooperation at all points during our sample collection and project work. It is
high time to express our gratitude to all related persons for sample collection period and project
work.
We thank our supervising teacher Md. Reajul Islam, Lecturer Department of Textile
Engineering for his continuous support and advice. He encouraged us for this project work.
Finally we would like to place our acknowledgement to all our teachers for their helpful supports
and necessary information during the data collection and analyzing period.
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CHAPTER - ONE
1. Introduction:
The project work is an important subject matter of textile technology. Here small change creates
a new idea, for successfully completion our four years graduate degree in textile technology. We
have tried to give fruitful expression.
Our project is “Effects on yarn properties after yarn conditioning”. It is very important for
cotton yarn quality. The aim of our project is to test, analyze and discuss the condition of tested
result.
In our project work we have analyzed carded cotton yarn. We have tested the sample in
MAKSONS SPINNING MILLS LTD QC Lab. The tested data were collected before and after
conditioning and then analyzed and compared the result. These help us to know about the effect
of cotton yarn quality and yarn properties due to conditioning.
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1.1 Aim of the project:
Main objects of our project is -
To know about different testing methods, properties of cotton yarn quality before and
after conditioning.
To know the snarling affect before and after conditioning.
To know about the preparation of project and report.
To compare & to get the concept of cotton yarn quality before and after conditioning.
To know how moisture is distributed evenly in yarn package.
To know about the permanent setting of twist by yarn conditioning.
To know how to increase yarn strength by conditioning.
To increase the luster.
To increase the production of next process.
1.2 Why we are interested in this project ?
Textile fiber are subjected to various physical operations to make into a yarn. For
example cotton fiber passes through opening, carding, drawing and spinning to
become a yarn. During these phases the original moisture content on the fiber
would have been lost and some static electricity would be carried out by the fiber.
The amount of static current carried by yarn changes from fiber to fiber. Similarly
the strength of any fiber any depends up on how close the present moisture content
is to the original natural value.
Similarly some high twist yarn would tend to loose its twist as and when it is allowed
freely, make a lengthwise elongation.
Some fibers would tend to shrink when exposed to hot atmosphere or any treatment that
involves heat and hence higher temperature. For example polyamide, polyester.
Some blends like Cotton/Lycra, Viscose/Lycra require conditioning to make width the
fabric stable.
So all the above said factors, if not addressed properly would reflect badly on the final
quality of yarn or fabric.
Finally, for this reason we are interested in this project.
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CHAPTER - TWO
2. What is Yarn Conditioning ?
Yarn conditioning:
Conditioning of yarn was done by a yarn conditioning system. The standard conventional
steaming treatment for yarn is chiefly used for twist setting to avoid snarling in further
processing. It do not result in lasting improvement in yarn quality the steaming process may fail
to ensure even distribution of the moisture , especially on cross –wound bobbins ( cheeses) with
medium to high compactness the thermal conditioning process of the yarn according is a new
type of system for supplying the yarn package. Thermal conditioning uses low – temperature
saturated steam in vacuum. With the vacuum principle & steam, the yarn is treated very gently in
an absolutely saturated steam atmosphere. The vacuum first removes the air pockets from the
yarn package to ensure accelerated steam penetration & also removes the atmospheric oxygen
in order to prevent oxidation. The conditioning process makes use of the physical properties of
saturated steam or steam ( 100% moisture in gas state ). The yarn is uniformly moistened by the
gas. The great advantage of this process is that the moisture in the form of gas is very finely
distributed throughout the yarn package and does not cling to the yarn in the form of drops. This
is achieved in any cross –wound bobbins. Whether the yarn packages are packed on open pallets
or in cardboard boxes.
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2.1 Different between condition and unconditioned yarn:
The difference between Conventional yarn and Profix Conditioned yarn is rather obvious.
Conditioned yarn. gives to you advantages that contribute to enhance production efficiency both
at the knitting and weaving Stages. Made Possible by significant increase in single yarn
elongation, yarn Strength, better hairiness value and constant coefficient friction.
Perfect Yarn Condition System is defined to deliver maximum value and incorporate World class
standards and is ideal for treating all kinds of Yarn.
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2.3 Advantage of yarn conditioning :
2.3.1 Spinning Mills
Increase in single yarn elongation and strength
Constant co efficient of friction
Better hairiness value
Free from electrostatic changes
Yarn weight gain up to 1.8%
2.3.2 Weaving Mills
Improves fabric softness
Less fly generation good size pickup in sizing
High elongation and strength leads to enhanced production efficiency
2.3.3 Knitting Plant
Increased productivity due to less unwinding tension
Fewer needle breakage
Better performance in cloth formation
Significant reduction in fly libration
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2.4 Conditioning process for various yarns :
1) 100% Polyester yarn: load the yarn in the form cones wound on plastic cones, in to
a beam dyeing machine. Introduce steam and raise the temperature to to 100ºC at
3ºC per minutes. Steam for 15 minutes at 100ºC followed by 15 minutes cooling = 1
cycle.
2) 100% Nylon: load the yarn in the form cones wound on plastic cones, in to a
beam dyeing machine. Introduce steam and raise the temperature to 100ºC at 3ºC
minutes. Steam for 15 minutes at 100ºC followed by 15 minutes cooling to a
temperature of 50ºC = 1 cycle.Repeat the cycle for 4 times.
3) Silk yarn: load the yarn in the form cones wound on plastic cones, in to a beam
dyeing machine. Introduce steam and raise the temperature to 70ºC per 3ºC
minutes.Steam for 15 minutes at 70ºC followed by 15 minutes cooling to a temperature
for 30ºC= 1 cycle . Repeat the cycle for 4 times.
4) Cotton/Lycra(40’s Lycra) or Viscose/Lycra(60’s) : Conditioning the yarn as mentioned
for silk.
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CHAPTER - THREE
3. Information about yarn:
Moisture in atmosphere has a great impact on the physical properties of textile fibres and yarns.
Relative humidity and temperature will decide the amount of moisture in the atmosphere . high
relative humidity in different department of spinning is not desirable. Mixing has a great impact
on yarn quality. The study examines the effect of conditioning on yarn quality by mixing two
different origin cotton yarn parameters. The study was performed on 100% cotton CIS- 1374 and
Shankar -6 at 40/60 ratio on 30kh (100% carded hosiery cotton yarn) . It was observed that
moisture regain % of the yarn along with other properties such as – Uster U%, CV % , thick and
thin places/km, IPI , Hairiness and CSP also changes.
3.1 Yarn:
Yarn can be defined as a long fine structure. Capable of being assembled interlaced or
interlocked into some intermediate production such as ropes, cords, woven fabrics, knitted
fabrics.
3.2 Moisture regain:
Moisture regain is the percentage of water present in a textile material of oven dry weight.
MR% = × 100
Here,
Weight of water = w
Oven dry weight= D
Moisture regain = MR
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3.3 Moisture content :
Moisture content is the percentage of water present in a textile material of total weight.
MC % = × 100
Here,
Weight of water = W
Oven dry weight= D
Moisture content = MC
3.4 Yarn Properties:
1. Yarn Evenness
2. Yarn Unevenness
3. Coefficient of variation
4. Index
5. Yarn Imperfections
6. Yarn Hairiness
7. Standard deviation of hairiness
8. Yarn Count
9. Relative Count
10. Yarn Twist
11. Yarn Shape
12. Yarn Density
13.Yarn trash
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1. Yarn Evenness:
Non-uniformity in variety of properties exists in yarns. There can be variation twist, bulk,
strength, elongation, fineness etc. Yarn evenness deals with the variation in yarn fineness. This is
the property, commonly measured, as the variation in mass per unit length along the yarn, is a
basic and important one, since it can influence so many other properties of the yarn and of fabric
made from it. Such variations are inevitable, because they arise from the fundamental nature of
textile fibres and from their resulting arrangement. Accordingly, there are limits to the
achievable yarn evenness.
2. Unevenness/Irregularity (Um )
Number that indicates the amount of overall mass variation in % from the mean mass of the
tested sample. Values are based on the normal cut length (1cm).
Application:
Shows the overall amount of mass variation over the test length.
It is recommended to replace Um with CVm .
Um -Value Inert,
Long-term irregularity of mass, assigned to a specific cut length value. The cut length depends
on the testing speed. Conversion charts for the first and second generation of the USTER
TESTERs:
Speed (m/min)
4
8
25
50
100
200
400
Cut Length
0.22m
0.45m
1.40m
2.80m
5.60m
11.20m
22.40m
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Application:
For comparisons with results of the previous tester generations. Which did not have the
option to set individual cut lengths.
3. Um -value, half inert ( Um hi )
Medium-term irregularity of mass
Conversion chart for UT1/UT2:
Speed (m/min)
25
50
100
200
400
Cut Length
0.40m
0.80m
1.60m
3.20m
6.40m
Application:
For comparisons with results of the previous tester generations UT1/UT2, which did not
have the option to set individual cut lengths. This value is mainly used in the filament
yarn industry.
4. Coefficient of variation of mass (CVm ) :
Numeric value which is a measure to the overall mass variation based on a cut length of 1 cm.
Application:
Shows the overall magnitude of mass variation along a material.
May show little reaction to long term mass variations.
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CVm 1m… 100m :
Mass evenness at a cut length of 1 m, 3m, 10m, 50m, 100m.
Application:
For analyzing medium and long-term mass variation. The CV(L)-values can be used to
evaluate.
The effectiveness of silver doublings.
The effect of autolevellers on the irregularity.
For the recognition of long-term variation which originate in previous processing stages.
The same cut lengths can be selected for diagram charts as well.
CVm inert :
Long-term irregularity of mass which corresponds to a specific cut length. The cut length
depends on the testing speed.
Conversion chart for UT1/UT2:
Identical to the table figured in position 3 for U% - inert.
Application:
For comparisons with results of the previous tester generations, which did not have the
option to set specific cut lengths.
CV, half inert
Medium-term irregularity of mass conversion chart for UT1/UT2:
Identical to the table figured in position 4 for Um/hi.
Application:
For comparisons with results of the first tester generation, which did not have the option
to set specific cut lengths. CV, half inert is used mainly in the filament yarn industry.
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4. Index :
Index of irregularity
Index l =
limCV
CVeff
Where : CVlim =
n
100
N = average amount of fibers in the yarn cross-section, based on the test parameter entry value “
fiber fineness” of the USTER TESTER 5.
Application:
The yarn irregularity index shows how close a yarn’s actually measured CV m is to the
theoretically achievable CVm (CVlim ). The CVlim depends on the amount of fibers in
the yarn cross-section.
The index is a measure of how well particular fibers have been processed into yarns.
This way, similar yarns with different yarn counts can directly be compared with each
other.
5. Imperfection of Yarn:
Yarns spun from staple fibers contain "IMPERFECTIONS". They are also referred to as
frequently occurring yarn faults. They can be subdivided into three groups
1. Think places
2. Thick places
3. Neps
The reasons for these different types of faults are due to raw material or improper preparation
process. A reliable analysis of these imperfections will provide some reference to the quality of
the raw material used.
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The standard sensitive levels are as follows
- Thin place: -50%
- Thick place: +50%
- Neps: +200%
Thick Place: Cross section size +35% to 100%. Fault length 4-25 mm
Thin Place: Cross section size +30% to -60%. Fault length 4-25 mm.
Neps : Cross section size +30% to -60%. Fault length 1 mm.
The “%” level selection of the thin place column corresponds to the cross section decrease or
increase in yarn.
A thin on thin place is count is the decrease or increase surpass the pre-set “%” value . An
average frequently occurring thin & thick place has length which corresponds approximately
with the fiber length -30 mm for short fibers cotton/ polestars blends 60 mm for long stable
fibers wool synthetic blends.
Thin places and thick places in a yarn can, on the one hand, quite considerably affect the
appearance of a woven or knitted fabric.
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Application:
Analysis of frequently occurring yarn flats.
Imperfections are considered as frequently occurring flats are very depending on
the fiber quality of now material on the condition of the production machinery.
The setting of the spining preparation machinery cards comber strongly in fluency
the amount of imperfection in the yarn.
Yarn neps depend on the amount of fiber neps and short fiber thash content of the
raw material still remaining in the fiber assembiy after preparation.
6. Hairiness:
The ratio of the total length of protruding fibers (in centimeters) per cm of yarn. The hairiness
value is the average of all the 1-centimeter hairiness values within a yarn test sample. The
hairiness value is the ratio of two lengths and, therefore, without a unit.
Application:
Indicates the overall level of hairiness of yarn test sample. Hairiness measurements
are only possible for yarns. The higher the H value, the hairier the yarn.
In certain cases, an H value difference of 1 or greater can be considered significant
enough to be detected by the human eye in a fabric. Hairiness properties can affect yarn
performance, fabric appearance, and fabric hand.
Overall yarn hairiness can be affected by many material and machine factors, such
as: Fiber length, fiber fineness, short fiber content, twist level, yarn count, machine speeds,
traveler weight, OE-nozzle type and condition, OE-rotor type.
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7. Standard deviation of hairiness (sh):
The sh-value is a measure of the short-term hairiness variation between 1cm cut length over the
whole yarn test length.
Application:
A measure of hairiness uniformity
Hairiness variation combine with a critical overall hairiness level have a negative effect on
woven and knitted fabric appearance.
8. Yarn Count:
Yarn count as weight by the manual or automatic count measurement option. 100 m (or yards) is
the standard length for yarn. The ISO Standard 2060 recomends :
- Yarn counts below 12.5 tex:
- Yarn length 200m
- Yarn counts from 12.5tex to 100 tex: Yarn length 100m
- Yarn counts over 100 tex: Yarn length 50 m
Settings for rovings/ slivers: Normally 10 m (manual input)
Application:
Measurement of actual count and count variation between bobbins (CVb). Two
basic values of the textile measurement technology.
9. Relative Count:
It is a measure used to calculate the count variations using capacitance method of
USTER TESTER. It calculates a value called "Average Value Factor AF". This factor is
proportional to the mean count of the tested sample length.
The relative count describes the variation of count between separate measurements within a
sample. The single values are calculated such that they are in direct reference to the mean value
of the sample that is always considered to be 100%. The relative count is always estimated with
reference to a test length of 100m or 100 yards.
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Application:
Indication of relative count deviations and count variations (CVb) between
bobbins.
Because the relative count measurement signal, the test has to be carried out in
an air-conditioned environment.
The relative count value cannot replace the regular count measurement, which
has to be done with a balance, because the capacitive system cannot determine the
correlation with respect to between-bobbin variation is very good.
10. Yarn Twist
Twist is defined as the spiral disposition of the components of yarn, which is generally expressed
as the number of turns per unit length of yarn, e.g. turns per inch, turns per meter, etc. With
increase in twist, the yarn strength increases first, reaches a maximum and then decreases.
Depending on the end use, two or more single yarns are twisted together to form "plied yarns" or
"folded yarns" and a number of plied yarns twisted together to form "cabled yarn". Among the
plied yarns, the most commonly used are the doubled yarns, wherein two single yarns of
identical twist are twisted together in a direction opposite to that of the single yarns. Thus for
cabled and plied yarns, the direction of twist and the number of turns per unit length of the
resultant yarn as well as of each component have to be determined for a detailed analysis.
Direction of twist is expressed as "S"-Twist or "Z"-Twist. Direction depends upon the Direction
of rotation of the twisting element.
Twist take up is defined as, "The decrease in length of yarn on twisting, expressed as a
percentage of the length of yarn before twisting.
11. Yarn Shape:
Factor which indicates the average yarn roundness over the entire test length of the yarn. The
value corresponds to the ratio of the short to the main axis of an ellipse (1= circle, 0.5= ellipse,
twice as long as wide).
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Application:
The roundness of a yarn influences the appearance of the end product.
12. Yarn density:
Mean density of the yarn over the entire test length of the yarn (in g/cm3).
Calculated with the nominal yarn count:
m =
m = mass of yarn
d = yarn diameter (cm)
D = yarn density (g/cm3)
I = yarn count (g/m3)
Application:
D is an absolute value for a yarn’s compactness.
Yarn density is strongly dependent on the degree of twist given to a yarn.
13. Yarn Trash:
Number of trash particles (>500 µm) per kilometer of yarn.
Application:
Similar to yarn imperfection testing:
Trash content monitoring of the yarn over longer time periods can clearly reveal gradual or
sudden changes of the trash contamination level.
Strong difference ( toward the positive or negative side) within same yarn lot are
undesired.
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CHAPTER - FOUR
4. Literacy Review
4.1 Conditioning process :
During processing of cotton fiber from bale to yarn , the moisture content of fibre kept not
constant . moisture varies from process to process. Finally for the adjustment of moisture should
be conditioning of yarn packages. Also for maintaining standard weight of the material.
Normally capacity of yarn conditioner machine = 1.5 ton /bath.
Vacuum vessel
Full with saturated steam
Can kept a constant pressure
Normally yarn packages place in a specific trolley and then full packages load in a vessel . After
certain time trolley would be withdraw from vessel.
Time ─ 25-30 min (Cotton)
45 min ( Poly )
Materials Temperature Time
Cotton ( waxed ) 55 – 60 25
Cotton ( Unwaxed ) 60 – 80 20 – 25
Polyester 80 – 100 30 – 45
P/C 80 – 100 30 – 45
Viscose 60 - 65 25 – 30
Wool 70 – 80 20 – 25
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4.2 Various types of Yarn Conditioning machine :
1. ELGI ELECTRIC MACHINE
2. XORELLA YARN CONDITIONING MACHINE
3. BLUEMOON MACHINES
4. PREMIUM NEO YARN CONDITIONING MACHINE
5. OBEM YARN CONDITIONING MACHINE
4.2.1 ELGI ELECTRIC MACHINE
Yarn conditioning by ELGI PROFIX
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Features :
The chamber is made of corrosion-resistant stainless steel materials. It is
thermally relaxed for dimensional stability and fabricated to precision.
Equipped with energy saver unit for power saving
Equipped with latest version of PLC (Programmable Logic Controller)
compatible with Window based software.
Water level sensor interfaced with PLC facilitates automatic feeding of water,
thus eliminating the need for a separate pump or manual feeding.
Matic platform arrangement makes Well-proven autoeasier for loading and
unloading process.
Single stage, mono block water ring pump is used. Which is Equipped with
cativation protection.
Silicon rubber door seal is used to withstand high temperature application.
Low Temperature Conditioning – possible form 46'C
Heat Setting – possible up to 120'C
Single cycle or multi cycle up to 20 steps - possible in cop, cone and hank form.
Safety instruments – incorporated as per International Standards.
Single stage, mono block water ring pump is used. Which is Equipped with
cativation protection.
4.2.2 EnergySaverUnit
24. 24
Advantage of PROFIX Energy saver Unit
Contamination free yarn – a clean conditioning chamber
Without water bath ensures purity of the yarn.
Absolutely free from fungus – yarn is treated with cold Saturated steam produced from a
separate energy vessel.
Uniform moisture Gain –up to 95% vaccumisation ensures uniform penetrations and
maximum moisture gain throughout the package.
25% extra productivity compared to the same capacity of conventional YCS due to
shorter time
Conditioning chamber is not having water bath or heaters hence it is safe and prevents
fire accidents.
Low maintenance cost.
4.2.3 Controlpanel
Equipped with Programmable Logic Controller (PLC) ensure safety of the stored
programmes.
The advanced design of the system does not require stabilizer and backup battery.
Up to 8 sets of various programmes can be stored
Single cycle or Multi cycle (up to 20 steps) programming is possible.
Double protection for total circuitry.
OPTION : Interfacing facility for production data available.
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4.2.4 Auto Platform
Well - proven automatic platform arrangement make easier for loading and
unloading process.
A special slipping clutch arrangement is provided for safety.
Chain carrier and Arm movement for feeding and taking out the material from the
chamber is interfaced with the PLC.
4.2.5 Dimensional Details forELGI
27. 27
Our standard machines suitable for all low temperature treatment applications up to
95°C, available in three sizes
30% less connected load
- Up to 25% less energy
- consumption
- Virtually maintenance free
- Shortest payback
- 100% process reproducibility
- Vessel made of stainless steel
- Shortest delivery time
- Plug & Steam designed
28. 28
Custom made treatment vessels to meet the most demanding customer needs for
both low and high temperature applications up to 140°C can be selected with a broad
range of door opening designs and loading systms.
29. 29
30% less connected load
Up to 25% less energy consumption
Virtually maintenance free
Shortest payback
100% process reproducibility
Stainless steel vessel
Fully customizable
Fully automizable
wide range of door openings
broad variety of loading systems
Fits any size of yarn carriers (palets, trolleys, boxes etc)
Can be fully integrated into existing logistic.
30. 30
30% less connected load
Up to 25% less energy consumption
Virtually maintenance free
Shortest payback
100% process reproducibility
Stainless steel vessel
Fully customizable
Fully automizable
wide range of door openings
broad variety of loading systems
Fits any size of yarn carriers (palets, trolleys, boxes etc)
Can be fully integrated into existing logistic
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XO-MINI
The XO-Mini is the perfect textile conditioning machine for all laboratory and research
needs.
Its small size and compact design with treatment temperatures up to 140°C makes
the XO-Mini the ideal tool for all laboratories, Universities and research institutes
Small size and most compact design
Shortest treatment times
Fast payback
Lowest energy consumption
Virtually maintenance free
Highest versatility
Up to 140°C treatment temperature
Most ecological
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XO-DPX
Especially designed to treat digitally printed fabric rolls up to 3300mm fabric width,
the XO-DPX assures perfect colour fixation to meet highest quality needs.
- Assures bright and sharp colours
- Shortest treatment times
- Fast payback
- Lowest energy consumption
- Virtually maintenance free
- Small size and most compact design
- Covers the production of 2 printers
- Up to 140°C treatment
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4.4 XO-Components
Today’s modern textile markets demand most ecological and logistically flexible machine
solutions to assure competitivity and enviroment friendly production of
textile goods.
4.4.1 Cooling water recycling
90% of the water needed for the vacuum pumps can be recycled. XORELLA® offers a vast
knowledge designing customized water recycling solutions.
4.4.2 Water free Vacuum system
XORELLA® as the World’s leading manufacturer of high quality yarn conditioning
equipment has especially developed a water free vacuum system featuring the XO-Ecopac to
meet today’s environmental conscience.
4.4.3 Material handling
XORELLA® offers a wide variety of manual and semi automatic loading platforms
designs as well as fully automated and customizable material flow solutions to assure
an easy integration of the XORELLA® textile conditioning equipment into the already
existing logistics.
Flyer material handling
4.4.4 Preheating
Some textile goods are very sensitive for condensate spots. The XO-Preheating-
System is the perfect solution for a condensate free steam treatments for all water
sensitive textiles.
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4.5 XO-Applications
Many sizes and configurations, allowing the tailoring to any special requirements.
The XO-Steaming Process has many applications in textile manufacturing: Relaxing, twist
setting, pre shrinking, fixation and stabilization of the textile substrate from fiber to fabric are
tipical applications of the XO-Steaming Process. XORELLA® maintains a vast know-how and
data bank for these specific pre treatments. For the conditioning and humidification of textile
fibers, yarns and fabrics with natural moisture retention, the XO-Steaming Process produces
reliable and consistant results with excellent measurable quality improvements. XO-Steaming is
also utilized in the specialty fields, such as glass fiber/yarn, aramid textiles, phytosanitation,
digital printing and more.
4.5.1 Weaving yarns
Conditioned yarns are vital
The Vardhman Group commenced its yarn conditioning activities in the mid-1980s and from the
outset, worked closely with the Swiss XORELLA AG, which developed this technology and is
the leader in the related market. Mr. S.P. Oswal, “Every yarn has to be conditioned as otherwise
problems arise. The Indian climate is too hot to allow any retained moisture. However, using
XORELLA® conditioning machines, we are able to increase the moisture level by 1.5-2.0% and
thus attain yarn quality with excellent running characteristics for the subsequent production
phases. Yarn conditioning is a must, yarns containing “Lycra” being otherwise impossible to
process."
4.5.2 Ultra fine yarn counts
Yarn Conditioning, an important final step in yarn production
Correct yarn conditioning has an important impact on the quality improvement of cotton yarns. It
has been established that the strength and elongation properties increase with moisture content of
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the yarn. This effect is explained by the fact that an increase in the moisture content results in
increased swelling of the fiber and in addition of the increase in fiber strength and fiber
elongation values, in a higher fiber to fiber friction in the yarn. Extraordinary XORELLA®
conditioning treatment leads to unmatched quality improvement of the finished yarn cones.
4.5.3 Sewing thread
Partnering with XORELLA®
XORELLA® steaming is an important part of A&E’s sewing thread manufacturing process.
Depending on the thread engineering specifications, the XORELLA® process is used for special
heat setting, or for the setting of twist in the core yarns. XORELLA® has developed the unique
temperature gradient control, which allows the design of the heating-up curve in relation to the
shrinkage characteristic of the synthetic yarn.
The dynamic shrinkage achieved contributes to excellent uniformity of thread elongation, and
avoids the crushing of the cone.
4.5.4 Knitting yarns
Pre-steaming of yarns prior to knitting
Kam Hing is using the XORELLA® Process for the treatment of yarns prior to knitting. Xorella
conditioned knitting yarns have considerably less liveliness and show enhanced performance in
knitting. Moisture addition contributes to less dust and lint fly during the knitting process and
reduced electrostatics during the process.
Increased knitting efficiency and fewer defects are known benefits of the XORELLA® steaming
of knit yarns. Typically, yarns for knitting are waxed during the cone winding process. The XO-
steaming process at 55 degree C. assures that the coefficient of friction remains very low and
constant from the beginning to the end of the yarn package. Better loop definition of the knit
fabric provides advantages all the way to the finished knit garment.
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CHAPTER - FIVE
5.1 Experimental Work
5.1.2 Procedure of the work
Operating of yarn conditioning system
( Only door movements)
For close door
1. Select “ Automatic off ”
2. Press “ Start ” push button.
3. Press “ Close Door ” button.
For open door
1. Select “ Automatic off ”
2. Press “ Start ” button.
( Now door is opening after 1 minute )
With Material ( yarns) for conditioning
1. “ Automatic on ”
2. Press “ start” button.
3. Press “ close door ” buttons.
Starting before chick points
In the trolly fixed wheels are placed in platform stopper side.
Compressor air pressure at 6 bar.
Energy vessel in water level indicator Low- High –Between.
Inlet water lines of vacuum pump and energy vessel ball valve should be open.
Check program number for suitable for suitable count’s.
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Load the yarn in the form cones wound on paper cones, in to a trolley conditioning
machine. In yarn conditioning machine we inserted six(6) trolley at a time (per trolley
96 package) Introduce steam raise the temperature to 58º at 45 minutes. After 45
minutes the beams are open out from the conditioning machine. And then the yarn
packages are cooled under the air at 30 minutes.
Yarn conditioning by ELGI ELECTRIC machine
Name of the mills & address:
MAKSONS SPINNING MILLS LTD.
GOURIPUR . ASHULIA, SAVAR
DHAKA.
YCS model & Serial Number: 114 / 1500P / 2005
39. 39
From this experiment we have found that, before conditioning the weight of yarn was 35.660 kg
and after conditioning the weight of yarn was 36.140 kg(per trolly)
Fig: Weight of yarn
Discussion: From the above graph there is significant change before and after conditioning.
The change is 0.480 kg. where the increasing percent is 1.35%.
Weight of yarn
35.4
35.5
35.6
35.7
35.8
35.9
36
36.1
36.2
1
Time
Wt.
Before conditioning
After conditioning
40. 40
Sl.no Material Vacuum Temperature Holding time Gain/ remarks
1 24s/1 90% 60ºC 25min 1.35%
2 24s/1 90% 60ºC 30min 1.16%
3 24s/1 90% 70ºC 25min 1.50%
4 24s/1 90%:85% 55ºC:65ºC 10:15min 1.48%
5 24s/1 90%:83% 60ºC:68ºC 10:15min 1.57%
6 24s/1 90%:83% 62ºC:70ºC 8:15min 1.57%
Programme :
Programme
no.
Material vacuum Temperature Holding time remarks
1 without 90% 60ºC 3min Warming up
2 24s/1 90% 70ºC 25min 1.5kg below
3 All count 90%:83% 60ºC:68ºC 10:15min 1.5kg above
4
5 All count 90% 58ºC 30min For knitting
6 All count 90% 60ºC 25min For knitting
43. 43
3.4 Graph
3.4.1 Weight per unit length variation, Um%:
From the annexure we have found that , before heat setting Um%=9.4 and after
heat setting Um%= 9.6
Fig: 1 Wt/ unit length variation
Discussion: From the above graph there is no significant difference before and after heat
setting.
Uneveness
9.3
9.35
9.4
9.45
9.5
9.55
9.6
9.65
1
Time
U%
Before conditioning
After conditioning
44. 44
3.4.2 Co-efficient of variation of mass (CVm%):
From the annexure we have found that , before heat setting CVm%=12.02 and
after heat setting CVm%= 12.23.
Fig: 2 Co-efficient of variation of mass (CVm%)
Discussion: From the above graph there is no significant change before and after heat
setting.
Co-efficent of variation
11.9
11.95
12
12.05
12.1
12.15
12.2
12.25
1
Time
CVm%
Before conditioning
After conditioning
45. 45
3.4.3 Thin place :
From the annexure we have found that , before heat setting Thin-50%=0.0 and
after heat setting Thin-50%= 0.1
Fig 3: Thin place
Discussion: From the above graph there is no significant difference before and after heat
setting.
Thin-50%/km
0
0.02
0.04
0.06
0.08
0.1
0.12
1
Time
Thin
Before conditioning
After conditioning
46. 46
3.4.4 Thick place :
From the annexure we have found that , before heat setting Thick+50%=30.6 and
after heat setting Thick+50%= 41.1
Fig 4 : Thick place
Discussion: From the above graph there is significant change before and after heat setting.
The change value of thick place is 10.5%.
Thick+50%/km
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
1
Time
Thick
Before conditioning
After conditioning
47. 47
3.4.5 Neps :
From the annexure we have found that , before heat setting Neps+200%=86.7 and
after heat setting Neps+200%= 103.6
Neps+200%
75
80
85
90
95
100
105
Time
Neps
Before conditining
After conditioning
Fig 5: Neps
Discussion: From the above graph there is a big change before and after heat setting. The
change value is 16.9%.
48. 48
3.4.6 Imperfection Index (IPI) :
From the annexure we have found that , before heat setting IPI=117 and after heat
setting IPI = 145
Fig 6 : Imperfection Index
Discussion: From the above graph we are seeing that the total IPI is increased after heat
setting.
Imperfection Index
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
1
Time
IPI
Before conditioning
After conditioning
49. 49
Result and Discussion
Before Condition After Condition
U%= 9.43 U%= 9.62
Thin = 0.0 Thin = 0.1
Thick =30.6 Thick= 41.1
Neps=86.7 Neps= 103.6
Total IPI = 117 Total IPI = 141
Count = 23.6 Count = 23.41
In MAKSONS SPINNING MILL LTd. For Card Hosiery 23.6s cotton yarn, before and
after conditioning the variation of count 0.19 Total IPI +24.
We have been that in our tested result count and CSP is satisfied but total IPI is not
satisfied.
50. 50
CHAPTER - SIX
Conclusion:
The fibre strength and elasticity increase the proportionately with the increase humidity. It is
evident after conditioning the moisture regain % climbs down to 7% on the day 6. Which is a
positive sign for the study. Because with increase of moisture other properties should be lightly
change after yarn conditioning. The other parameters like Uster U%, CV%, Thick and Thin
places/km , IPI, Hairiness and CSP also changes with the increasing period of conditioning.
51. 51
CHAPTER - SEVEN
Bibliography:
1. www. Geocities.com
2. www.google.com
3. USTER AFIS PRO Application hand book
4. USTER AFIS Application hand book.
