B. Pharmacy| Cosmetic Science| Cold Cream

1. Sonali G. Taple M.Pharm
Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry
Faculty of Pharmacy
Email- sonaligt2021@gmail.com

2. Definition
 Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats usually including
beeswax and various scent agents, designed to smooth skin and
remove makeup.
12-05-2022
2

3. Introduction
 It is a “water in oil” type of emulsion.
 Traditionally it was prepared by a mixture of natural waxes (e.g.
beeswax) and vegetable oils (e.g. olive oil) stabilized by borax.
 Nowadays mineral oil replaced more unstable vegetable oil.
 It contains a high proportion of oily material and fatty material.
 Name cold cream derived due to the cooling effect of cold cream
after application on the skin.

4. Types
1. Bees-wax borax emulsion type cold cream
2. Mixture of hydrocarbon oil and wax containing cold cream

5. Bees-wax borax emulsion type cold cream
 It is water-in-oil (W/O) type of emulsion.
 It is white, emulsified and cold cream type.
 It is opaque and high lusture in nature.
 It spreads easily on skin.
 After application on skin much of the water evaporates.
 Use of almond oil still limits shelf life of cold cream.

6. Ingredients used in the formulation of bees-wax emulsion
type cold cream
 Beeswax
 Lanolin
 Mineral Oil, Mineral oil 65/75
 Isopropyl myristate
 Acetoglyceride
 Petroleum jelly
 Borax
 Water

7. Mineral oil
 The use of mineral oil instead of almond oil produces stable, cheaper and
long shelf life product.
 Mineral oil is a hydrocarbon that is stable, inexpensive, not subject to
rancidity, and is odorless.
 Mineral oil is a good solvent for the oil and grease binding either grime or
makeup to the skin.
 Mineral oil forms an occlusive barrier on the top of the skin that will
prevent water from escaping from the skin, therefore improving skin
moisture and combating skin ageing.
 It is non carcinogenic and non-comedogenic.

8. Bees wax
 Bees wax used for the formulation should be prepared from purified
honeycomb of bee and free from all other waxes.
 Bees wax with lowest melting point produces softest emulsions.
 Bees wax is natural, moisturizing and non-comedogenic in nature.

9. Borax
 Borax is also important ingredient of cold cream.
 When borax is dissolves in water it produces boric acid and sodium
hydroxide. The sodium hydroxide interacts with cerotic acid present
in the beeswax and forms an anionic emulsifier. While, boric acid
buffers the system.
 Cold creams made with borax are more stable.

10. Mixture of hydrocarbon oil and wax containing cold cream
 It is translucent, liquefying and anhydrous.

11. Advantages
 The primary use of the cream is for skin treatment.
 Mineral ingredients in the cream, work as a moisturizer.
 Generally useful for dry skin.
 It can also be used as an alternative for lip balm if you have very dry,
chapped lips.
 It can be used as a makeup remover and cleanser.
 Sometimes it is applied to the face before putting on any makeup.
 It can be used as an alternative to shaving cream.
 With a hot washcloth it can help exfoliate the skin.

12. Disadvantages
 Cold cream is quite heavy in consistency.
 It will feel very "greasy" on the application.
 Also, people living in hot, humid weather will find this too heavy.
 Cold cream is more of a winter product and feels more
uncomfortable in the summer season.

13. Cold cream as a cosmeceutical

14. Composition of cosmeceutical cold cream
Cosmeceutical Ingredients Beneficial Effects
Hyaluronic acid Hydrates the skin and lightens scars skin.
Helioplex A broad-spectrum sun-protection ingredient
based on avobenzone and oxybenzone.
Xcell-30 An anti-aging active that reduces the frequency
of cellular division in order to maintain
youthful-looking.
Ceramide Lipids or fat cells that help in keeping the skin
moisturised and supple.

15. Composition of cosmeceutical cold cream
Cosmeceutical Ingredients Beneficial Effects
Proxylane A naturally derived ingredient that improves
hydration.
Somitine An energizing active that can be used to increase
skin radiance.
Kojic acid A by-product of rice wine, it helps lower
melanin production, lightening the skin..
Mexoryl SX and XL An organic compound that protects the skin
from UVA rays.

16. Composition of cosmeceutical cold cream
Cosmeceutical Ingredients Beneficial Effects
Lipo hydroxy acid A derivative of salicylic acid that helps in cell
turnover by exfoliating the skin's top layer.
Peptides Peptides reduce signs of aging by thickening
the skin and reducing wrinkles
Green tea An antioxidant that is rich in polyphenols and
helps fight free radicals that can dull the skin.

17. Composition of cosmeceutical cold cream
Cosmeceutical Ingredients Beneficial Effects
Niacinamide A vitamin B3 complex that helps in improving skin
complexion and tone.
Ascorbyl acid A vitamin C derivative that works to reduce
wrinkles and improves skin radiance.

18. Reference
 Kamla Pathak AV. Cosmetic Science Concepts and Principles. First
edition. Nirali prakashan, page no. 4.13-4.15.