2. DNA
• Phoebe Philo is the DNA.
• “The brand's history wasn't
relevant to me, I like the fact the
name means nothing any more. It
will be whatever I make it for the
time I’m here”.
• Innovation, timeless and
experimental.
Phoebe Philo
3. DNA
• No archives or history on the
website. Any past evidence was
destroyed. Any evidenced history
starts once Philo commenced
work for the label.
• Phoebe started in 2008.
“Maison” tab on website displays a
contemporary video of 16 Rue Vivienne,
Paris, the headquarters for Celine. The
building is portrayed as empty in the video,
echoing Philo’s minimalistic and
contemporary approach.
My theory is the “empty look” of the Paris
headquarters doubles as a subliminal
message, as Philo has moved the
headquarters to London.
4. The House’s aesthetic is clean,
elegant and comfortable with a point
of view that’s disciplined but eased.
CODES
• Minimal, colour blocking, leather,
no logo approach, understated
femininity, functional clothes,
focus on tailoring and fabric.
Permanent Collection
• Crombie coat, collarless
masculine shirt, perfectly cut pair
of trousers, “Cabas" and
“Trapeze" iconic bags.
5. DISTRIBUTION MODEL
• Céline trades in 4 product
categories; ready to wear, leather,
accessories and shoes.
• Distributed via DOS, (Directly
Operated Stores), Store in Store
retailers in high end department
stores, such as Printemps, Le Bon
Marche, Galeries Lafayette and
private high end multi-band retailers
(wholesale).
• Retail presence; 100 own branded
stores worldwide.
LICENCING
Céline carries one, multi-year licensing
deal with Safilo Group, who is a
worldwide leader in the premium
eyewear sector. They produce and
distribute their sunglasses worldwide.
Céline sunglasses are only available in
selected boutiques and Céline stores.
6. DISTRIBUTION
• Distribution is targeted, “we are not really
multiplying presence in cities but we want to
open some relevant stores in important
cities, keeping the distribution tight” said
Marco Gobbetti CEO.
• The brand strategy focuses on organic
development of sales and performance per
square metre in most of its points of sale,
which could lay the strong foundation of its
expansion in the future (Sacha & Conti).
Céline has expanded its retail network
notably in the US and China and have
stepped up boutique renovation worldwide.
NO ECOMMERCE
Céline rejects online selling, preferring direct
communication with the customer. Gobbetti
wants the customer to visit the store and
believes you need to feel and touch the
product, and most importantly try the
product on.
**If you try and find the brand on a department
store site a box pops up telling you that
it is only available in store.
7. COLLABORATIONS
• Philo is a private and creative woman that prefers her collections to
speak for themselves, so it is of no surprise her choice of collaborators
only mirror her values and vision for the brand.
• Philo’s Céline has triumphed on a refusal to play the fashion game
choosing art collaborations, rather than participating in the design
worlds social media circus.
• Art and fashion have always been inexorably linked, and impressive
things happen when the two creative minds of artist and fashion
designer share a congruent ethos and understanding of the brands
vision.
8. COLLABORATIONS
• This presentation explores two significant and recent
collaborations between Philo and artist.
• The first is with artist FOS and the second collaboration is with
artist Sabine Marcellis.
• The collaborations were so successful Philo incorporated them
throughout Céline retail stores worldwide, and her runway
collection at fashion week.
9. FOS
• Thomas Poulsen aka FOS is a
contemporary Danish artist that
creates a variety of works from
installations to experimental videos.
• FOS has been commissioned by Philo
to create installations in Céline stores
and headquarters. They collaborated
together on store design and fit out.
10. FOS DNA
• His work integrates his interest in
examining how interactions and
perceptions are shaped by specific
contexts. His works are interventions
that exemplify the artist’s idea of
“social design”, an artistic framework
in which social interaction and
communal public experiences are his
materials.
CODES
Organic shapes combined with
architecture, emphasis on extraordinary
materials.
11. FOS
• FOS and Céline are a natural fit, as
Philo’s collections are the very
essence of social design. Social
design is design that is mindful of
the designer's role and
responsibility in society; and the
use of the design process to bring
about social change.
• Philo‘s objective as a designer is to
ensure that “the clothes are the
star”, her clothes empower
women, they are functional and
practical, embody strength and
confidence. They are created by a
woman for women.
12. FOS
• As his pseudonym suggests, FOS
puts a premium on privacy.
Operating behind the scenes, FOS
gives his viewers the space to
draw their own conclusions.
“Everyone is constantly looking at
their phones. I prefer to engage
with reality”.
• Both FOS and Philo prefer
anonymity on the internet. Philo
has no social media presence and
Céline is one of the few brands
not to have embraced e-
commerce. FOS, meanwhile,
hasn’t updated his website since
2003.
13. FOS
• Philo and FOS created aesthetical
forms through art and design that
address the ethnicity in their
surroundings,’ FOS says. The
forms and shapes of his work
address both control and
freedom, which reflect Céline’s
ethos about design.
14. FOS STORE DESIGN
• Juxtaposing unlikely elements and materials. To encourage
exploration instore, FOS broke up the store into small vignettes: In
one corner you see a towering lamp, an elegant wood-and-bronze
light fixture anchored in a mound of rough concrete. In another
corner there is a monumental terra-cotta planter that introduces a
touch of earthiness to the otherwise streamlined setting. Overhead,
wire chandeliers illuminate the mixed-marble floor, which, at first
glance, looks like planks of exotic wood. The stores are beautifully
executed. FOS’s designs provide a rich ecosystem that complements
Céline’s rotating collections.
• Philo was so happy with the results, she asked the artist to adapt his
concept to Céline retail stores worldwide.
15.
16. SABINE MARCELLIS
• Sabine Marcelis is a Dutch/New
Zealand product designer who has her
studio based in Rotterdam, (NL).
• The importance of collaborations are a
big part of Sabine’s vision for design,
she has undertaken various
collaborative efforts with other
designers, industry and brands.
• Sabine was asked to create resin
display cubes developed and produced
for the new Céline store interiors
worldwide.
• The cubes represent strength, beauty
and functionality.
17. SABINE MARCELLIS
DNA
• Sabine strives to create a
dialogue between the object and
the user. She sees her designs as
experiences, not mere static
pieces; with functionality at the
core complimented through
aesthetics, which reflect the
essence of Céline perfectly.
CODES
Unexpected effects, materials,
colour, layering.
22. ANALYSIS
• Collaborations should be simple and
easy to understand.
• Philo utilises collaborations to
enhance and compliment her
designs, and additionally for
branding and promotional purposes.
• The collaborations between artists
and Céline reinforce brand
aesthetics and exclusivity, there is
compatibility between both the
artists and brand DNA & codes, their
values match reaching a mutual
endorsement.
Céline
Minimal
Private; as a designer
Designs are experiences
that have functionality and
aesthetics as its core
Social Design
Empowering
Innovation
Timeless
Control and Freedom
Artists
Contemporary
Private; as artists
Engage with reality
Create dialogue between
object and user
Concept driven
Experimentation
Functional
Innovative
Play with control and
freedom
PARTNERSHIP NARRATIVE
23. WHY FOS & MARCELLIS
• Philo is consistently building the Céline
brand, it’s uniqueness and dream factor.
• FOS and Marcellis’ designs compliment
Céline, they continue the creative
conversation and deliver a coherent
statement of innovation, timelessness and
experimentation.
24. BRANDING
• Philo utilises collaborations to facilitate story telling which in turn enhances
Céline’s brand exclusivity and refreshes the dream factor to clients.
• The Céline brand and retail stores are easily recognisable, which is consistent in
building a brand identity, thus helping her clients understand the language of the
brand.
• Philo’s branding is Philo herself, she is independent, creative and a visionary. She
insists on doing things her way at Céline ( No ecommerce, no history). Artists live
in the same space, they have a vision and believe truly in aesthetics for a purpose,
this emulates Céline’s DNA. The collaborations match Philo’s values, and the
attention she receives for this kind of publicity is coherent with the exclusivity she
insists upon.
•
25. PROMOTION
• Philo recently collaborated with
FOS on her latest Spring 2016
collection at Fashion Week.
• This collaboration created a huge
buzz and offered a new
perspective to runway shows and
the world of media.
• The collaboration included not
only the set design but the entire
space and music to the show.
26.
27.
28. SWOT
Strengths
Aesthetically beautiful
Exudes luxury and brands DNA and codes
Collaborations does not dilute the brand
Enhances brand uniqueness
Press love Philo’s independence & rebellion against
the status quo
Builds brand identity
Confident and coherent statement
Weaknesses
Esoteric collaboration
Doesn’t build clientele
Or seek new customer
Could be seen as elitist
Doesn’t offer a brand extension
Preference for privacy from all involved in
collaborations, can make it hard for promotional
purposes
Opportunities
Ability to continue retail design in Céline stores
worldwide
Continues to build brand identity and familiarity
worldwide
Build momentum in the press due to her
eccentric ways
Threats
Not having ecommerce in a world where
technology is key may hinder the brand
Disregard for working with other fashion brands
could exclude Philo from finding new clientele,
whilst decreases chances for expansion
Exclusivity of the label
Style easily recognisable, can be counterfeited
29. IMPACT OF
COLLABORATIONS
• Creating a new heritage and story
for Céline.
• Building the brands, identity
exclusivity and new modern image.
• Sets Céline apart in terms of design
and brand uniqueness.
• Exudes Luxury.
• Collaborations fits perfectly with
ethos of Céline and feel of store,
promoting a pleasant environment
for clientele to buy, and staff to sell
Céline products.
• Offers differentiation to Céline as a
brand in a competitive luxury space.
• Made impact on the art world, high
society and press.
30. CONCLUSION
Was the collaboration a success?
For branding and promotions, yes.
It is unlikely a collaboration like this leads directly to sales, and this is not its
objective, however as far as building a brand identity and a cohesive story for
her clients, for Philo and artists the collaboration fulfilled what it was set out
to do.
31. CONCLUSION
Why the collaboration was a success
• Philo does it differently, her tenure at Céline has been shaped by a series
of quirky, esoteric associations, this has led to the success of Céline and
helped differentiate the brand, bringing worldwide attention and
continued ROI.
• Philo’s goal is to “make the product the star”. It was not about lifestyle.
It’s about clothes, “no smokescreens”. She has never hired a celebrity to
be a brand “ambassador.
• Philo collaborates with artists as they mirror her values and the brands
aesthetics. It is a good fit between designer and artists, providing a
coherent statement and a style that is easily recognisable.
• The collaboration was initially commissioned for one store and has now
become the look of Céline stores worldwide.
• Philo has built a strong and lasting relationship with these artists and
continues to work with them exploring new and exciting avenues to
create interesting beauty.
32. RECOMMENDATIONS
• It is recommended that Philo and
LVMH continue their expansion of
their retail environment
worldwide, keeping a consistent
store and brand identity.
• I believe going forward e-
commerce needs to become part
of Céline’s strategy. The world is
changing and you cannot ignore
it.
• To remain consistent with the
brand image, future
collaborations with Céline could
include a furniture company,
textile company, dinnerware and
tableware, luggage, hotelier or
day spa, nail polish, makeup
label, art gallery.