Study On Pattern Making in Apparel Industry

1. GREEN UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH
Department Of Textile Engineering
ASSIGNMENT
Remarks:
Course Code : TE 206
Course Title : Apparel Manufacturing I
Submitted To:
Name : Mr. Mohammad Ashraful Alam
Designation : Lecturer
Department : Textile
Submitted By:
Name : Md Rakibul Hassan
ID : 183014057
Section : E1
Department : Textile
Date Of Performance : 04-08-2020
Date Of Submission : 10-08-2020
Assignment Topic : Study on Pattern Making in Apparel Industry.

2. Study On Pattern Making In Apparel Industry
Introduction:
Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garment
or apparel. Actually pattern is a template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric
before being cut out and assembled. It is one of the most important parts of garment manufacturing
industry.
Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to
one or more curves of the human figure . Pattern making is a bridge function between design and
production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the
form of the garment components (Cooklin).
A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. With in this roughly
cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the
pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a
three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.
A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional
fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design
are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that
fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward).
Garments Pattern:
Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garment
or apparel. Actually pattern is a template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric
before being cut out and assembled. It is one of the most important parts of garment manufacturing
industry. Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, sensitivity for
design interpretation and a practical understanding of garment construction. Pattern making is a
bridge function between design and production.
Fig: Pattern Making
A basic or foundation pattern can be created by any of the two methods, namely, by drafting or by
draping fabric on a model. Pattern drafting is defined as a technique or method of drawing patterns
on brown paper with accuracy and precision, based on the body measurements or standard
measurement chart. This is an efficient and economical method and can be manipulated to create the
pattern for different styles by a technique known as flat pattern designing.

3. Types of Paper Pattern:
1. Standardized paper pattern:
Paper patterns prepared using standardised body measurements are called standardised paper patterns.
This method is followed in training and tailoring schools.
2. Individual paper pattern:
The measurement of a particular person is taken and a pattern is prepared using these individual
measurements. The pattern prepared for a particular person will not suit another person. These are
usually done at home and some tailor shops.
3. Final paper patterns:
Once the individual is satisfied with the paper patterns, they are made into final paper patterns.
Though, while making individual patterns all the precautions are taken, yet, there could be some
minor points, which are to be considered. These minor details are corrected and finally made into
permanent patterns.
4. Block paper pattern:
Normally these are made with standard sizes with thick cardboard. These are mostly used in the
garment industry. The garment made out of these block patterns will fit those who have measurements
equal to that of the standardised body measurement.
5. Readymade patterns:
These are made using a unique type of tracing paper. These can be procured from the market and are
more useful for people who can do stitching, but not drafting. These can be bought readymade and
can be easily used by placing on the material and cutting and stitching accordingly.
6. Graded paper pattern:
Patterns of five consecutive sizes (e.g. 30″, 32″, 34″, 35″ and 38″ chest size) are marked in one single
pattern. The required size according to the individual body measurement is traced separately, cut and
used.
7. Commercial paper pattern:
The paper patterns for different designs are available in readymade forms. These patterns are called
commercial patterns. These patterns are enclosed in an envelope along with an instruction sheet. The
instruction sheet will provide information about selection of fabric, preparation of fabric, marking,
cutting, and steps for sewing. The front side of the envelope contains the front view, side view and
back view of the garment design along with the body measurements
Methods Of Pattern Making:
Pattern making involves three steps:
1. Pattern Drafting
2. Pattern Draping.
3. Flat paper pattern making
1. Pattern Drafting:
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person,
dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked
on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic,
foundation or design patterns.

4. Principles of Pattern Drafting:
1. Patterns must be created larger than actual body measurements to permit free body movements,
ease of action and comfort in wearing. Normally used ease allowance for various parts of the body
are as follows.
a. Bust – 3–5″ (3″ for a tight fitting garment and 5″ for loose fitting one)
b. Waist – ½
c. Hips – 3–5″.
d. Upper arm – 3–4″.
e. Arm hole depth – 1″
2. For a symmetric garment (the right and left sides of the garment panels are similar), the paper
pattern could be made only for half front and half back. But for the sleeve part, a full pattern must be
made.
3. It is better to draft the basic pattern blocks such as plain bodice, plain sleeve, and plain skirt without
including seam allowances. However, while marker planning or keeping the patterns directly on the
fabric for cutting, adequate seam allowances have to be ensured between the patterns before cutting.
Otherwise, to avoid the risk of cutting without seam allowance, it is better to add seam allowances in
the paper pattern itself after completing the draft.
4. The following construction detailed information should be recorded and marked clearly on the
pattern after drafting to aid in further processes.
a. Identification mark of every pattern piece by its name (bodice front, bodice back,
sleeve, etc.).
b. Number of pattern pieces to be cut with each pattern piece.
c. If seam allowances are not included in the draft, this should be pointed out in the
pattern. If it is included, then seam and cutting lines should be clearly drawn on the
pattern.
d. Length grain line should be marked in a different colour pencil on every pattern
piece.
e. Notches should be provided for easy matching of components while sewing.
f. Centre front (CF) as well as centre back (CB) lines should be marked in the block
pattern.
g. Fold lines in the pattern should be clearly marked and should be visible to show the
location where the material should be folded.
h. Dart and pleat markings, etc. should also be marked clearly on the pattern.
Measurements:
Bust: measure just under the arms around the fullest part of chest.
Waist: measure around narrowest part of torso.
High Hip: measure 6 inches [15.5 cm] below waist around the hips.
Back-waist length: measure from nape of neck to waist level
Shoulder Length: measure shoulder from ball socket to side of neck.
Armhole depth: measure from nape of neck to under arm level.
Back width: measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.
Neck: measure around base of neck.

5. Tools Use For Drafting:
1. Tape Measure
This is likely something you already have in your stash, because if you have been making clothing
you should have been measuring your body along the way! If not, pick up a good quality fiberglass
tape measure today so you can start your pattern making off right with correct body measurements.
2. Seam Ripper
Like the tape measure, you probably have a seam ripper. You will use this in patternmaking for taking
out your basting stitches when you move from the muslin fitting to the pattern drafting stage.
3. Fine Point Sharpie Marker
Muslin versions are always ugly because they are marked up, but you want to make your markings
with a permanent and fine point. I like these push-button fine point sharpie pens as the cap always
seems to get lost in my studio! These are quick and easy to use.
4. Tracing Wheel
To take your markings from the muslin stage to the patternmaking stage, this tool will pierce through
the paper and leave behind marks to draft with a mechanical pencil.
5. Rotary Cutter
I like using my rotary cutter for the big broad strokes of cutting muslin. Make sure to use a cutting
mat beneath your item to protect the cutting surface of the table underneath!
6. Fabric Scissors
Sharp, high-quality scissors are used for all your fabric cutting in sewing and patternmaking. These
will shape the muslin down to the proper size after you have cut it big and broad with the rotary cutter.
7. Tracing Paper
I personally do not use this, but many designers like it for leaving marks behind on their muslins. I
like a sharpie or tracing wheel, but try these sheets out and perhaps you will love them! Many people
do.
8. Scotch Tape
It is inevitable that you will need to tape pattern pieces together and I find that basic Scotch tape is
the best for this.
9. Clear Rulers
Having a variety of clear rulers in different shapes and sizes is essential in your kit for patternmaking.
I like having a little one for marking in tiny areas, long ones for making marks for pin tucks, side
seam lines, and other parts of the patternmaking process that call for something longer than average.
I also have a quilting square with diagonal lines for helping square up corners and creating angles.
10. Right Angle
This is also a huge help in creating perfect 90 degree angles on your pattern. These are also available
in clear plastic, which most people prefer. I have had this black one since art school and still use it.
11. Curved Rulers
To shape arm holes, hip curves, hems and other lines that are not straight in patternmaking, it is
essential that you have a few different curved rulers to get the proper slope in your pattern.

6. Fig: Tools use for Drafting
2. Pattern Draping:
Pattern draping is otherwise known as toiling or modelling. Pattern draping is the manipulation of
two-dimensional fabrics on a three-dimensional torso or body form to get a perfect fit. The dress form
generally used for draping is a muslin padded dress form, positioned in an adjustable stand that
duplicates the human body structure. The dress form should be firm, yet resilient and should not resist
pins. A range of dress forms exist in standard sizes for children’s and men’s figures. The steps for the
preparation of a dress form are given below:
1. The dummy should be checked for both bust and hip measurement.
2. It should be padded to get the required measurement by using high density foam. The
foam is adjusted in such a way that it assumes the shape of the human breast.
3. A square piece of quilt batting is pinned onto the formed breast. While pinning the batting,
care is taken to see that it is slightly larger than the required size at the sides. When it is
covered with muslin, it gets compressed to the right size and looks more natural.
4. Batting should be done equally on both sides.
Fig: Draping
3. Flat Paper Pattern Making:
It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form.
A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with
just enough ease for movement and comfort. Five basic pattern pieces are used for women’s clothing.
They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and
a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently women’s styles
fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions. Nowadays draping

7. is also tested by Computer aid techniques. A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates
its manipulations to various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it.
It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced
easily. For a good pattern making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.
Fig: Pattern making by CAD system
The flat pattern technique is a method of manipulating the pattern while the pattern is laid flat on the
table. Pattern manipulation is a common word applied to the act of slashing and spreading or pivoting
a pattern section to alter its original shape. Darts play an important role in the flat pattern technique.
The darts can be shifted to any location around the pattern’s outline from the pivot point without
affecting the size and fit of the garment. There are three methods of flat pattern technique, which are
as follows:
• Pivot method:
By this method, darts can be moved from one point to another. For this, a thick
cardboard, which is firm and sturdy, is required. Seam allowance is not added.
• Slash and spread method:
In this method, darts are shifted by cutting and spreading the pattern along the dart to
the desired position. This is a relatively easy method provided the slashes are made
correctly. Care is taken to see that the cuts are not made through the pivot point.
• Measurement method:
This method is commonly used when the darts have to remain in the same seam line and
the width of the darts can be divided into two or three darts.
Conclusion:
Pattern making is quite interesting and important for a student and it helps the people of any age
groups to interpret the designs and understand the design with technical ability. ... It is done on brown
paper and helps to create basic patterns; foundation of new designs can be easily made.
Patterns are important because there are several benefits of pattern making such as it improves designs
and wearability of garments, it uses the latest technology to produce accurate specifications, it

8. supports the design process from start to finish, it reduce the production cost, it makes the process
faster. Actually there are a lot of advantages of pattern making. So we should be very careful during
pattern making in apparel industry.
-- The End –
Submitted by
Md Rakibul Hassan
Id: 183014057
Article collected from:
1. https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/03/garments-
pattern-making-methods.html
2. https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/pattern-
making-garment.html