BRICKWORK WALL PLASTERING

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CIVIL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
DCC10022 – BRICKWORKS AND CONCRETE
LABORATORY
BRICKWORK LABORATORY 4 : WALL
PLASTERING

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INTRODUCTION
Brickwork is masonry produced by a bricklayer, using bricks and mortar to build up brick structures such
as walls. Brickwork is also used to finish corners, door, and window openings, etc. in buildings made of
other materials. There are two main types of clay bricks: pressed and wire-cut. Pressed bricks usually
have a deep frog in one bedding surface and a shallow frog in the other. Wire-cut bricks usually have 3
or 4 holes through them constituting up to 25% of the total volume of the brick. Some ‘perforated’
bricks have many smaller holes.
There are three main categories of use, and both pressed bricks or wire-cut brick types
are used in all three categories:
❖ Facing brickwork is the visible decorative work.
❖ Engineering brickwork, (using engineering bricks) often seen in bridges and
large industrial construction but may also be hidden in ground works where
maximum durability is required, e.g., in manhole construction.
❖ Common brickwork is not usually seen and is used where engineering qualities
are not required; below ground in domestic buildings and internal walls, for
instance.
OBJECTIVE OF THE EXPERIMENT
➢ In the bricklaying field, the term stretcher bond is a reference to the format and standard to
which certain types of brick walls are built in order to be stable. Stretcher bond is the term given
to the repeating pattern the bricks are laid in. This pattern includes vertical supports tied in to
the foundation of the structure the wall is being built on.
➢ This type of brick format is used mostly in interior settings because it is only applicable in thin-
walled settings. As a matter of fact, the stretcher bond wall is only usable in the thinnest of brick
wall settings. This is because it is only as thick as one half of a brick.

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THEORY
BONDS
A wall relies on the way the bricks are bonded for its strength. The vertical joints between bricks in
adjacent courses must not coincide either on the face of the wall or across its thickness. There is a
variety of possible bonds. A half-brick wall up to 1m high can be built in stretcher or open bond. You
should bond in piers (328 x 215mm) at the ends of the wall and at a maximum of 1.8m centres. A
215mm wall can be built using either English or Flemish bond. Careful cutting is needed at junctions and
corners to avoid continuous vertical joints through two or more courses of brick.
WALLS PLASTERING
After you have cement rendered the brick walls of your room, you have to prepare them
for the paint coats by applying the plaster.
✓ Plastering a brick wall is not a complex task, being similar to plastering a drywall, but you have
to follow a couple of guidelines, as to get the job done in a professional manner. Consequently,
you must apply two coats of plaster, the first one a little more coarse, while the second one
should be very fine. After the two coats have dried out, you have to sand thoroughly the
surface, as to make it even and neat.
✓ Make sure the surface is ready to apply plaster. If we speak of a new construction, then you
should make sure you have cement rendered the walls and let them dry for a couple of days.
✓ If you want to plaster an old room, then you have to remove the coats of paint and sand the
surface thoroughly. In addition, cover the walls with PVA bonding, according to the
manufacturer’s instructions, as to make sure the plaster will adhere to the walls.
In order to mix the plaster, you need several tools: a clean construction bucket and a drill mixer /
margin trowel. Pour water in the bucket (1/3 of the volume) and then add gradually the plaster. After a
couple of minutes you have to mix thoroughly the compounds, until you get a material with the
consistency of cream. If the plaster doesn’t fall off the trowel, it means that it has the right consistency
SAFETY AND HEALTH
WHAT IS A SAFE SITE?
Many definition of safety have been offered over the years but we prefer that which suggests that a
construction site is safe when person can go about their normal daily work without undue risk. This, we
feel, is a realistic definition, for it accepts that there is risk situation in all everyday activities and does
not pretend that a workplace can be entirely accident proof.
SAFETY REGULATION
There are several safety regulations in construction such as wear a suitable clothes like wear a helmet,
safety boot etc.

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HELMET HAND GLOVE SAFETY BOOTS
MATERIALS / APPARATUS / TOOLS
The basic tools used in masonry are:
CEMENT SAND WATER STEEL SQUARE
CHALK BOX PAIL BRICK CHISELS BRICK JOINTER
TROWEL BRICK MEASURING TAPE LEVEL

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PROCEDURES
1. Put mortar for plaster on a dust mask.
2. Add water to a bucket. It should be between cool and room temperature. You will learn through trial
and error how much water to use, but most people tend to underestimate the amount of water needed.
If you want to avoid clean-up, line your bucket with a plastic bag, then discard the whole thing at the
end.
3. Using a cup or scoop, start adding plaster to the water. Sprinkle the plaster out evenly over the whole
surface of the water. You don't have to be in a big hurry, but don't work too slowly or the plaster will
start to set. Some people prefer to sift the plaster into the water. At first the plaster will sit on the
surface of the water very briefly before it disappears beneath the surface of the water. (This is called
"slaking".)
4. Keep adding plaster, sprinkling it in the same manner. After a while the plaster will be visible for a few
seconds before it disappears into the water. You are getting close... Keep adding plaster. When you add
plaster and can count to 5 before it disappears, you have enough. Let it sit for 1-2 minutes to wet the
plaster particles (this helps reduce air bubbles).
5. Mix. You want to make sure that you aren't adding air to your plaster, or you will get bubbles which
will cause problems later. So if you use an electric mixer make sure to keep the blade deep in the
plaster. Or, just take your hand (a glove is useful) and place it at the bottom of the bucket, and slowly
move your hand back and forth across the bottom of the bucket. This slowly wets all the particles.
6. When you can draw a line in the plaster and it doesn't immediately flatten back out, the plaster is
ready to pour.
BRICK HAMMER SHOVEL HAWK FLOAT CONSTRUCTION

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7. POURING
➢ The goal in pouring the plaster is to avoid introducing air pockets, particularly at the surface that
you are going to be using.
➢ Pour slowly.
➢ Some people allow the stream of plaster to run off the palm of their hand, thus slowing it down.
➢ It is helpful to apply a thin coating all over the surface and allow it to set a little before pouring
the final amount necessary for the mold. If the air bubbles come to the top of the thin surface,
they will be away from the actual surface you will be using. (This is especially useful if you are
pouring upside down, i.e. will use the bottom surface of the mold you are pouring.)
8. After pouring, pick up your container and softly tap it on the table or the floor. Or if it is too big, tap
the edges and shake from side to side. You are trying to get air bubbles to the surface.
9. And perhaps the ultimate trick. Use rubbing or denatured alcohol in a spray bottle (some people
dilute, some don't). When the plaster mixing is almost complete, spray a couple bursts into the plaster.
This breaks down the surface tension of bubbles on top and they disappear. After pouring you can
repeat this when there are bubbles that have risen to the top of the mould. (This is especially useful if
you will be using the top surface of the mould you are pouring.)
10.Smooth the top of your plaster item with a rib or something like that, and let it set. Clean your bucket
and tools at this time.
11.If you are pouring a very large mould, or for some reason didn't mix enough plaster in the first batch,
immediately start mixing the second batch. When it is ready you can pour it over the existing plaster.
Scratch crisscross lines into the top of the first layer before pouring the second layer to help them
adhere together.
12.There will be a point where the plaster is hard, but still wet enough to easily carve. This is a good
time to put the item on your wheel and trim it, or trim off the rough edges by hand, or start carving your
designs.
13. It can take many months for a large plaster mould to completely dry out, so it will continue to get
lighter as that happens. But it is usable immediately. If using the same piece of plaster over and over, it
will eventually become too wet to release the clay. Let it dry and it will again work fine. If you can't wait
for the plaster to dry, you can sprinkle with talc. Here is a beautiful thing about plaster. If you ever want
to carve into it later, you can soak it in water, re-wet it, and it will become.