Containing apparel key definitions, sampling section , pattern and marker making.

1. Apparel Manufacturing 1
BY
Mohammad Ashraful Alam

2. Tailoring Method Industrial method
Garments are made acc to individual
client’s body measurement.
Garments are made acc to standard body
measurement.
Investment cost is low. Investment cost is high.
Generally 1 or 2 machines are required. Many and different types of machines are
required.
More times needed to make a garment. Less time needed to make a garment.
For making a garment 1 or 2 persons are
required.
For making a garment many persons are
required.
No needed for pattern grading. Pattern grading is required.
Fabric wastage is high. Fabric wastage is comparatively less.
Small space is required. Large space is required.
Garments are not supplied with attractive
packing.
Garments are supplied with attractive
packing.
Difference between tailoring and Industrial methods
for Apparel making

3. Receive Tec pack from buyer
↓
Basic Block
↓
Working Pattern Making
↓
Sample Making
↓
Identifying Basic Manufacturing Difficulties
↓
Sample Approval
↓
Production Pattern Making
↓
Pattern Grading
Apparel Manufacturing Sequence

4. Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting & Bundling
↓
Embellishment(if required)
↓
Sewing
↓
Inspection
↓
Washing (if required)
Apparel Manufacturing Sequence

5. Ironing
↓
Folding
↓
Packing
↓
Cartoning
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Ex- Factory
↓
Ship Out
Apparel Manufacturing Sequence

6. Related Terms
• Allowance: Garments are produced adding
some extra measurement with the body
measurement which is called allowance.
• Bartack: A process of sewing within a very
small length to increase load bearing capacity.
• Button Size: The crosswise measurement of a
button is called button size which is generally
expressed as linge. 1 linge=0.635mm

7. Related Terms
• Blind Stitch: A special type of stitch which sew the
fabric by partially penetrating the fabric instead of full
penetrating.
• Bluff edge: The portion of garments outside the sewing
line is called bluff edge.
• Collar: It is a part of garment remains extended round
the neck.
• Cuff: It is the most lower part of the sleeve of a shirt.
• Dart: In order to remove the wedge shape from the
back of the garment, a desired shape is created by
sewing is called dart.

8. Related Terms
• Disposable Garment: The garment which is used
one time only.
• Dimensional Stability: The quality of retention of
dimension shape or size of fabrics or garments is
called dimensional stability.
• Drape: If a fabric is hung from an end then the
appearance that appears at the hanging end of
the fabric is called drape.
• Facing: Along the ends of some parts of garments
one layer of fabric is sewn inside is called facing.

9. Related Terms
• Fusing: The process with the help of which fusible
interlining is attached with the garment parts is called
fusing
• Gathering: The process of sewing the fabric by
shortening the length through small folds or wrinkles is
called gathering.
• Grain: The lengthwise direction of fabric is called as
grain.
• Hem: The shape of the end of the garment which is
made by folding the end of the fabric and placing it
inside and sewing along the end is called as hem.

10. Related Terms
• Interlining: In certain part of garment a special layer of
fabric is used between two layers of fabric for shape
retention as well as increasing the strength is called as
interlining.
• Ligne: It is a unit of measuring comparatively smaller
width. The ligne is used for measuring the width of
button, ribbons.
• Lining: The fabric which covers the garments fabric
from the inner side of the garment is called lining.
• Pleat:In certain garments, fabric is folded and sewn
with another fabric to enhance beautification as well as
easing on free movement is called as pleat.

11. Assignment
1. Lets differentiate Lining & Interling.
2. Lets differentiate Dart & Pleat

12. Related Terms
• Marker: The total patterns of a garment are drawn in a
planned way mainly on paper and which is used for cutting
of fabric by spreading nit on the fabric layers, is called
marker.
• Moulding: The process of giving desired shape of a garment
parts with the help of a die by applying heat and pressure is
called moulding.
• Pressing: The process of making crease on the parts of
fabrics by folding it is called pressing.
• Pattern: The replica, shape or template of a part of a
garment is called the pattern.
• Seam: The line along which one piece or multiple pieces of
fabrics are joined by sewing is called as seam.

13. Related Terms
• Stitch: Each of the unit of sewing made with
sewing thread is called the stitch.
• Swatch: A small piece of fabric which is used as
sample for presentation of the color, grade or
quality of a fabric is called the swatch.
• Trimmings: In a garment, except the main fabric
all other parts needed are termed as trimmings.
• Ticket Number: The number which is used to
show how much the sewing thread is thinner or
thicker is called ticket number.

14. Differentiate F.O.B. , C&F, CIF
• If the value of sold goods is mentioned in the
invoice excluding the transportation cost, then
it is termed as F.O.B.
• Whereas, if the value of sold goods is
mentioned in the invoice including the
transportation costs, then it is called as C&F.
• In case of CIF the value of sold goods are
mentioned with both transportation cost &
insurance cost.

15.  Definition: Sample: A few item or goods taken from a large number of
similar goods are called sample. Sample represents the bulk apparel.
The details attached to the Apparel Sample:
 Ref. no
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Style no/ size
 GSM of gmt faric
Sample

16.  Development Samples: This is a sample made from the first pattern and
intended to test the designer’s idea or concept in the chosen fabrication.
 Salesmen Sample or Promotional Samples: Buyer needs this kind of
samples for getting the orders from their customers. The salesmen will
book the orders from their customers, by showing these samples. Then
buyer will place the orders to the manufacturers accumulating the
quantities.
 Fit Samples: These samples are needed to check the measurements,
style fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but
measurements and specifications must be actual.
 Photo Samples: Photo samples are made with actual color material to be
worn by the models on the event of shooting for catalog. These samples
may be needed for local advertisement or buyer’s promotional occasions.
Different types of Samples

17.  Counter or Reference Samples: These samples are to be made in actual
fabrics with actual trims and should be strictly as per the specifications in
the order sheets.
 Pre-production Samples: These samples are almost like approved
samples. They have to be made in actual production fabric with actual
bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be like these
samples.
 Production Samples: During production some samples are sent to Buyer
as a reference that the bulk is being produced as per specifications. Buyer
wants to be assured that correct materials is sourced & line workmanship
conformed to the quality level.
 Shipping Sample: A sample is kept from every pre-shipping inspection to
be referred, if required after the order has been delivered. Usually for any
claim shipping samples is most important.
 Size set Sample: Consists of one piece from each size for each color
combination.
Continue…………

18. Approved Sample Counter Sample
The sample which is approved by the
Buyer is called approved sample.
The sample which remain to
manufacturer after sending sample to
Buyer for approval is called counter
sample.
This sample should be kept by the Buyer
as their reference.
This sample should be kept by the
manufacturer as their reference.
Approved sample should not be used in
bulk production.
Counter sample should be used in bulk
production and hanged in sewing floor
during sewing.
If required, Buyer gives comments on
Approved sample
Counter should be rectified according to
this comments.
Sample is required for order collection. Counter sample is required for smooth
bulk production.
Difference between Approved Sample & Counter
Sample

19. • Mock-up: Any part of the garment to make particular purpose, not
complete garment.
• Swatch: Swatch is a presentation of all the materials (Fabric &
Accessories) used for any specific style/order. Usually small piece of fabric
and each piece of accessories are attached in board paper in a systematic
manner.
Continue………..

20. Generally three types of fabrics are used in Apparel Sector. They are-
 Woven Fabric
 Knitted Fabric
 Non- Woven Fabric
Woven Fabric:
Commonly used woven fabrics are-
 Plain Weave Fabric
 Voile
 Poplin
 Chambray
 Taffeta
 Georgette
 Chiffon etc
Fabric Used in Apparel Sector

21. • Twill Weave Fabric:
 Herring bone
 2/2 twill,2/1 twill etc
• Satin Fabric
Knitted Fabric:
 100% Cotton Single Jersy
 Lycra Single Jersy
 Single & Double Lacoste
 Pique
 Rib
 Interlock etc
Non Woven Fabric:
 Mesh Backing Fabric
Fabric Used in Apparel Sector

22. Components of A Basic Shirt

23. 1. Collar
2. Collar band/ stand
3. Upper yoke
4. Lower yoke
5. Left front part
6. Right front part
7. pocket
8. Sleeve
9. Cuff
10. Back part
11. Facing
12. Button Stand
Major Components of A Basic Shirt

24. Components of A Basic Trouser

25. 1. Waist Band
2. Belt Loop
3. Side Pocket
4. Fly Piece
5. Back Pocket
6. Front Part(Right & Left)
7. Back Part(Right & Left
Components of A Basic Trouser

26. Pattern: Pattern is template of all components of garments which is
made by drawing on hard paper following each & individual component’s
measurement.
Pattern Making Stages/Steps: The pattern is made in two steps in
garment industry-
1. Block Pattern: Block Pattern or Basic Block is individual components of
garments without any style , design & allowances. It is produced acc. to
exact dimension of standard body measurement.
 Block Pattern is made in two ways-
A. Flat Method
B. Modeling
Pattern

27. A. Flat Method : In Flat Method, different parts of garments like
body part, sleeve etc are made by technical drawing. In technical
drawing , the rule & application of method of body measurements and
its ratio depend on pattern maker. This type of pattern can be made by
computer. Measurements are taken from sizing system (chest , waist ,
hip & so on) and lines are drawn to complete the pattern.
B. Modeling: It is primary method & still used to make pattern . In
this method, Block is made with standard body measurement of dummy
/mannequin which is called Toile . Toile is worn on dummy to check
fittings. Then toile is worn out from the body of dummy and individual
parts of toile are drawn on hard paper . It is more time consuming
process but more efficient.
Pattern

28. 2.Garments Pattern: Garments pattern is made on the basis of
block pattern or basic block. Allowances ie sewing, washing , trimmings;
styles , designs like dart ,pleat , button hole shrinkage etc are
considered . Individual block pattern is laid /drawn on hard paper or
board paper to copy the block pattern. In garments pattern grain line is
indicated by arrow mark. U or V notch/cut mark is marked on pattern for
accurate cutting & sewing. After drawing , pattern parts are separated
from board paper by knife . Size and individual part’s name are written
on every part.
Pattern

29. • Pattern making tools:
 Pencil/Fine point sharp marker
 Measuring Tape
 Ruler
 Curved Ruler
 Scotch Tape
 Scissor
 Pin
 Tracing wheel
 Tracing Paper
 Set Square
 Tailor Chalk etc
Pattern

30. Marker: Marker is a piece of paper on which all size patterns of a
garment are drawn so that the required number of garments can be made
using the minimum quantity of fabrics.
• Marker width is taken as the minimum fabric width & marker length
depends on below
 Number of garments to be made from one lay of fabric
 Cutting table length
 Production planning etc.
Marker

31. Marker-
Marker

32. Factors related to marker efficiency:
Marker Planner: Marker efficiency depends on technical
knowledge ,experience ,skill , effort & sincerity of marker planner .The
greater the number of times the marker will be made ,the higher the
possibility of getting better marker efficiency.
 Size of garments: The more the number of the pattern sizes are
included ,the more possibility to get better efficiency.
 Marker length: Higher the marker length higher the efficiency . It also
increases the production of cutting room.
 Marker Width: Generally marker width depends on fabric width . The
greater the width of a marker, the easier for the marker man to plan the
marker. And the possibility of getting better marker efficiency.
Marker

33. Fabric Characteristics: Symmetrical fabrics are those which
are similar to all directions when rotate at 180 degree angle. Marker
efficiency is good in these type of fabric. Asymmetrical are those which
fabrics are not similar to all direction when rotate at 180 degree angle. So,
marker efficiency will be less for these type of fabrics.
 Marker Making Method: Mainly there are two methods for marker
making –manual marker & computer aided marker. If the computer aided
marker is done , the efficiency becomes greater than manually done
marker.
 Garment Type: The garments where big sizes patterns are greater than
small sizes patterns such as overcoat etc ,less marker efficiency is
obtained. But in the garments where the number of small size patterns are
more, comparatively the higher efficiency is obtained .
Marker

34. The following points should be considered
before marker making:
 Fabric width must be higher than marker width(1 cm)
 Fabric length must be higher than marker length ( 2cm+ 2cm)
 The grain line of pattern pieces should be parallel to the grain line of
fabric( parallel to the warp in woven fabric and Wales in knitted fabric)
during laying down on the fabric.
 All pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when
laid down on asymmetric fabric.
 Cutting table length should be considered.
 Garments production plan should also be considered.
Points to be considered before marker making

35. Marker

36. • The factors which prevent the marker man to
make the efficient marker are listed below:
o Grain Line: During marker making, the grain line of pattern must be
placed in parallel with the warp side of woven fabric and the Wales of
knitted fabric . If the marker planner doesn’t pay proper attention to the
grain line ,the finished garments won’t hang or drape correctly when
worn. It restricts the freedom of marker planner.
o Fabric Characteristics: In case of symmetrical fabric , there is no
problem during marker making .But in case of asymmetrical fabric ,during
marker making special attention should be given otherwise the garments
look may be defective. For this reason, the pattern can’t be moved
randomly as per wish which is a constrain .
Constraints of Marker Making

37. o Garment Design Characteristics: In garments where
special designs are must such as Mirror Image i.e. the left & right side
along the centre front line be looked as same. During fabric spreading
marking special attention is to be given so that after making garments the
desired designs are obtained in each garment.
o Cutting Quality: Precautionary measures should be taken during
marker making so that for moving the knife for cutting the patterns, no
problem arise; otherwise chances of defective pattern cutting will be seen.
o Production Planning: When an order is placed for a quantity of
garments ,then it specifies a quantity of each size and color. Marker
planning to meet the requirements of production schedule is very
important during marker making.
Constraints of Marker Making

38. • Marker Efficiency:
the percentage of the total fabric that
is actually used in garment parts.
Area of pattern in the marker
Marker Efficiency = -----------------------------------------X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
Marker Making

39. • Ends of ply losses: For the extensibility of the
fabric and limitation of cutting machines, 2 cm
allowances is required in each end of the each
ply.
• Loss of fabric ends: during preparation of the
fabric lay, the last or end remains of the fabric
roll are separated by cutting.
Fabric wastage outside marker

40. • Selvedge losses: Each fabric has two
selvedges along width. The amount of cut out
is considered 3% (approximately) along width
• Purchase loss: Less fabric may wound on roll
than identified length
Fabric wastage outside marker

41. • 1. Marking directly on the fabric
a. Drawing by Chalk or pencil:
mark directly onto the fabric
using pipe clay or wax
not allow copying
least accurate method
Not applicable method for pile
or woolen fabric
Methods of Drawing a Marker

42. • B. Paint Spray: fine jets of paint are sprayed
over the patterns that have been laid on the
fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns when
they are removed
More fabric is required to allow gaps for paint.
Paint can migrate under the pattern edges
Pattern sizes grow as layers of paint build up
The machine must be cleaned every day.
Methods of Drawing a Marker

43. • 2. Marking on the paper: pattern pieces are
precisely arranged on to the marker paper and draw
the outline of the patterns by using pencil. This
method is widely used in the industry.
• 3. Computerized Drawing:
– Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated on screen to
produce a marker
– the corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen and the range
of the pattern pieces are shown on top
Methods of Drawing a Marker

44. • 4. Photographic System: patterns pieces are
set onto a light sensitive paper passing
through ultra-violet light and revealed by
using ammonia vapor. This method is quick
and clean
Methods of Drawing a Marker

45. • a. Carbon duplicating: Carbon paper in
between two marker paper
– Suitable to copy 3-4 pieces
– This duplication method has fairly low capital and
material costs
– dirty , poor impression in the lower layer
– Spreading and rolling of carbon paper is difficult,
labour intensive process
Methods of Duplicating a Marker:

46. • b. Spirit duplicating: working procedure is
same as Office duplicating machine/Xerox
machine
– Only significant difference is that the size of the
machine
– Suitable for copying 40-50 pieces
– Not suitable for higher marker width
– May produce defective copy if master copy set on
the machine improperly.
Methods of Duplicating a Marker:

47. • c. Photographic method: With the
photographic method, the original marker is
set onto a light sensitive paper using ultra-
violet light and revealed by using ammonia
vapor. This method is quick and clean and
produces unlimited numbers of duplications
Methods of Duplicating a Marker:

48. • A. Manual method.
In this process, marker can be made in two ways
a. By using full size pattern:
-full size pattern pieces on marker paper
or
-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a spread
b. By using miniaturized pattern:
-full size pattern pieces are reduced to 1/5
of its original size by using pantograph
-made by plastic sheet or thick board paper
-Marker planning is done by using those miniaturized
patterns
-reproduced full size using the mini-marker as a
reference.
Methods of marker making

49. • Area Covered by pattern measured by planimeter to
get Marker efficiency.
• higher marker efficiency as control over the marker is
better than the full size pattern
• rapidly being replaced by computerized method
Methods of marker making

50. • time consuming and require a great deal of space
• errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain variation,
poor line definition, placement and alignment of pieces and
slip of the pieces
• Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of
the individual who laid out the marker and traced it
Features of manual marker making

51. B. computerized marker making
• very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern
manipulation, marker efficiency and shortest response time
• Production patterns may be developed on the computer or digitized or
scanned in to the computer
• parameters for markers are entered in to the computer from cutting
orders - style numbers, size distribution and fabric width
• Protective devices are built in to the programs to ensure the grain
alignment and prevent overlapping of pieces
• Automatic marker making may be used to determine yardage
requirements and fabric costs for designs prior to line adoption
Methods of marker making

52. • Increases in material efficiency with subsequent decreases in
material waste,
• Time and labor savings in making markers;
• Improvements in overall marker quality;
• Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and
• Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.
Advantages of computerized method

53. • Initial investment is high.
• Skilled operator is required.
Disadvantages of computerized method:

54. “Believe me, you are passing the best part of
your life. Lets enjoy it.”