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4. . TRAVEL
'ilir " rvoke drearning of permit. When I'd
r,,r asked about permit and trevally, I was
told quite firmly by Keith, my guide,
''Tomorrorv is a bonefish trip...we
rnight see other fish, but it's
trip." On the list of Good Guide Ruies,'Con-
a bonefish 1 *
fi@i' 'i':.,11
trol client expectation' falls somewhere be-
nveen 'Don't let them dror,vn' and 'Don't for-
get lunch', so I really didn't mind having my
interest and excitement controlled.
Talking of dreaming and more to the point,
lvhat on earth was I doing on Desroches Is-
Iand, the stunning island honeymoon resort
in the outer islands of the Seycheiles where
Prince William and Kate Middleton had es-
caped to r.i'hen they got back together as a cou-
ple.z The reason was that apart from all the
rer-note lurun-. Desroches offers flats and blue
s'ater tishing along rr,ith diving, kayaking,
surling and ri.indsurfing. And the best food
and accommodation I've experienced on a
fishing trip. To add to the comfort factor, the
Seycheiles are about as far from the United
Kingdom as the Bahamas, but the time dif- The author attached to a hard-running Desroches bonefish,
ference is only trvo hours - no jetlag! The first
time I've ever experienced this with tropical light made spotting fish relatively easy, but same time. I guess I landed a dozen fish,
salrwater fishing. as usual it took me a little time to see fish. I maybe half that, I really don't care - this was
Needless to say, I'd like to catch a permit, guess I get a little excited when I first get on superb bonefish fishing! My fish were in the
actually I'd just like to have a shot at a per- a flat. It's as if I will that stick to be a shad- 2-5lb range. I saw no bigger bones but
mit, to cast a fly at one with a realistic ow, if I strain hard enough that strand of weed would not be surprised if those flats hold larg-
chance of a take. Nlany of the bonefish flats will be a fish... frozen in time doing nothing er bonefish. The fish I caught were about the
I've fished in the Bahamas and Florida are vis- a feeding fish actually does! The best cure size I'd expect to encounter on Acklins or
ited by permit, just not r'r.hen I'm there, or not seems to be to have the guide put me on a cou- Crooked Island in the Bahamas.
r,vhen I'm facing the right way! And anl'rvay, ple of fish, better still catch-and-release a cou- As our session drew to a close, Keith led
I like fishing for bonefish. ple. Then I relax, I staft looking at rvhat's there us to a beach facing out to open water with
"Normally, the crossing takes just over an in the water including fish and not seeing D'Arros in the distance. We were to be col-
hour," ald "Normally,lve have flats skiffs over rvhat I wish for. lected from that beach, but in the meantime,
there." I rvas told. The trip over tookwell over I started fishing with a thite fly from my "Permit and trevally cruise along this chan-
fi,r'o hours and there rvould be no skiffs, so we box, follorving the rule I'd picked up along the nel waiting for the tide to rise so they can get
rvould carry all we needed. "NormallS it's not way of matching the fl1- to the colour of the into the lagoon ..." said Keith.
as choppy..." didn't stop me turing a mild sand. Keith, rightll'I think. noticed a fish re-
shade of green during the crossing ... in both ject my offering and pron.rptil'tied on one of ,& rmed with the same small crab
directions. his own flies, a small. tan. s-eighted crab. I E fly. stationed thigh-deep I began
The small inflatable ferried us to the flats fished that flr'for the rest of the dal,. " -_* to feel a flutter of nerves again.
then scurried off to do whatever busy little in- We soon fell into a rhrthm. slorvly work-
' - began to strain to see fish. will-
T"
flatable boats do. To the east a few hundred ing across the flat. regularll-spotting and .r . 9fa ing that rock to be a permit. The
yards to deep watel and the channel between catching. Fish came Io us a-q in ones and twos, light was still good enough for spotting fish,
St Joseph and D'Arros, a mile or so south a and I sari'no qrouFs oi nore than a handful t]le sun was a little lower than when we were
small beach and a felv trees, in the distance of bonefish iri]n! f1.. These u'ere happy, se- dropped on the flats but still bright, a few more
north and rvest I could see lou'l)'rng land or cure fish ri'el- s::;:; r-rlef our fishing range ciouds crossed the sun, but give it a few sec-
at least beaches on the horizon. StJoseph is and their iee;.:: :: - u:ds. if those fish saw onds and the lights were back on and we could
an atoil, patcl.res ofcoral sand secured by a fe-"r' see deep into the water. Keith and I chatted
bushes and trees rnore or less surround a la- about the day: his flies, tackle, the rod I was
goon, a rather large lagoon. We had corne to try4ng ...
fish the flats inside that lagoon. We waded fbr "Permit!"
for a ferv minutes, from rvaist-deep to knee- I had no idea where he was looking, I could
deep rvhen Keith slor,ved and lvithout him sa1- see nothing and was considering panic.
ing a rvord r,r'e could both tell rve had moved "Get ready to cast!"
from walking to fishing. I stopped fretting and focussed on getting
The flats lve fished have firm white sand. line off my reel, ciearing the leader through
dotted rvith darker patches of weed or sea : -:- ! ".: -:-i:li. it seemed like one
i:--.::- the rod tip with enough of the head for a cast,
grass. Wading was exceptionally good. r'er1- r t r -i: -- :r' :: :.:i into a fish all the the fly ready in my hand. On the list of Good
firm underfoot. We rvere fishing a rveek or so :--.-. - :-- -:.:pped"sobothrods Fishing Client Rules, 'Trust your guide' falls
before the official start to the seasor.r, so ri'e .r- -: : -: .,- ...:re occupied at the between'Don't tease the sharks/bears/wolves
r,vere told to erpect a littJe lvind. And that'siusi
- . -.' - * .*'=:==*!.*iiiE#.lii"f,;i',;H' or armed locals'and'Learn to cast before the
r'vhat u'e got, a little wind, just enough :,:
maintain a ripple on the water, and nothin.:
"I: -.OSE FISH SAW trip.'
"Look to rn1' left about 40ft out."
an S-rveigl-rt can't cast through. In tl-re Be-
har.r.ras and Cuba I have prayed for winds iik-
-{ 1-i--O-{BLYWELL Then I sari' tlie fish, in perfect profile just
yards fi'om n'here rr-e rvere standing. It
that.
?-SF_TED FLY seemed to gloii'. The light u'as right and the
Gleamir"rg rvhite sand and bright su:-r- -:Y -{ILED IT, fish was senled. na1'be feeding, cruising
:n t .l I rns'.flr.tishing-and-fi1t}-ing.co.uk
5. F
After a bonefish rejection Keith suggested tying
Seychelles permit. on one of his tan Crabs.
f
parallel to the beach, maybe just waiting for calm. A wave slightly deeper than the rest
the tide to bring it into the lagoon and to the J
rolled towards us, bending the light and hid-
flats we had fished. f .{' ing our fish for a few seconds ... and it was
I looked down at my fly and line, and back gone. The fish vanished. I don't think we
p!+.-1;
to the fish. A subtle change of light and the
glow had changed. My lasting memory of that
M
lHq
spooked it, we both thought it rvas heading
to my fly and expected to see it again after that
instant was of the outline of a fish, a dark edge wave. I have no idea s'here it t'eni or ..i'hr'. :i
with nothing in the middle, my fish was be- was simplv gone.
coming invisible. I assume it was a trick of the ". {il.'',a
',rS; ,!ri
.'i&a. So, I suppose I can no..'s:j
I
light and the mirrored flanks of that fish but ::,.i.1$-l
a permit. The ibiioning ::-'=::-: -
it could as easily be me wishing for a shot at Keith's erab dreaming of pernlii. or ai .trai: --r: .:
that fish. Skill level:&l's*SS outline of a permir-shapej noi:.
"Castl Lead it by a few yardsl" Hook: Stainless single, standard shank, size € Hardened permir anglers ma1- -:e -..--;:
A simple straight cast, not far, even the 4-6. horr'an Adandc fish turned up in -= -:-an
wind dropped. Looking into water that deep Thread: Tan. Ocean. e g-ere after Indo-Paci:: :ermir
we are looking at an angle,judging how far Tail: Orange grizzly barred rubber legs. Tan (Trachinonu blochi from the sar..: :.:ri as
out the fish is, actually is not just what it looks marabou. the Atlantic permit (Trachirnra-r'lah.-:' r :. nith
Iike ... thoughts like that were running Body: Tan and white rug yarn. very similar habits and the same a'cirin- to
through my head until I let the fly reach the Weight Leadless shot. frustrate.
water. The yarn is tied across the shank, brushed
"Good cast!" said Keith. This pleased me out and cut to shape. For the weight, a loop ot Magnw Angus hos fshed aII over the h.orld bui
immensely! The fly san I could even see that monofilament is tied in at the eye extending his f.rst forays were on the Don and Feugh in
fly sinking, which is unusual for me. back over the hook and a /eadless shot ls the 1960s with his grandnd, where he fished
"Strip. Slowly..." crimped to the mono and painted white. with a cane rod. Hewas nominatedfor the
I stripped in line, determinedlyremaining pratigious PPA award for Bat Witer (2004).
lnfsrr$mtE*n
t Keith Rose lnnes runs the highly Desroches lsland is offering a seven-
professional and exceptionally well night luxurious stay in the Seychelles
equipped fishing operation at from t4,350 per angler and t3,950 per
Desroches. The fishing is world-class, non-angling companion (not including
and as far as a resort goes for cou- flights). Price includes seven nights in a
ples this is rated as one of the top ten Beach Suite on all inclusive basis and
remote hotels in the world. lt has a one day's flats fishing on either St
spa and swimming pool and offers Josephs or Poivre, with a guide and
massages and a gym. Fly rods and skiff. Price is based on two people shar-
reels can be hired; the rack held ing, excludes tackle. Trips can be tai-
Loomis rods fitted with Shilton reels lored to suit your needs and additional
when I was there. Desroches has a f lats or bluewater f ly f ishing excursions
small tackle shop with a good selec- can be added. Prime fishing time is Oc-
tion of flies and the consumables we tober to May.
need on a fishing trip. I travelled to tl Additional information: contact
the Seychelles with Emirates. Keith@desroches-island.com
m.fl yfi shing-md-fl ltying. co. :.: