1.
Chapter 20
Objective: To emphasize the client’s
most attractive facial features while
minimizing those features that are
less attractive

2.
Objective
 Varies from client to client
 Based on face shape analysis and client’s
individual needs
 Consider face structure, eye color, skin and
hair, client’s wants and the results you can
realistically achieve

3.
Foundations
 Foundation
 evens skin tone and color
 conceals minor imperfections of the skin
 protects the skin from climate, dirt and debris
 Available in liquid, stick, cream-to-powder,
and tinted moisturizer.

4.
Chemistry
 Cream
 predominantly water, mineral oil, stearic acid,
cetyl alcohol, propylene glycol,
triethanolamine, lanolin derivatives, borax and
insoluble pigments
 Generally suited for dry to normal skin and
give medium to full coverage

5.
Chemistry
 Liquid
 Suspensions of organic and inorganic pigments
in alcohol and water-based solutions
 Generally suited for clients with oily to
normal skin conditions and sheer to medium
coverage.

6.
Chemistry
 Powder
 Consist of a powder base mixed with a
coloring agent and perfume
 Effective for oily skin

7.
Chemistry
 Cream - to - powder
 Moist on application but dries to a powdery
finish

8.
Using Foundation
 Skin tone determines the selection of
foundation color
 warm : yellow, orange, or
red-orange
 cool : blue, blue-green
(olive), or blue-red (pink)
 neutral : equal amounts of warm and cool tones

9.
Selection
 Match as closely to actual skin
tone
 If too light, it will have a chalky
or gray appearance
 If too dark, it will look dirty or muddy.
 Determine correct foundation color
 applying a stripe of color to clean skin on the jaw line
 blend slightly
 color that “disappears” on the skin is the correct tone

10.
Concealers
 Used to cover blemishes and discoloration.
Available in pots, pencils, wands and
tubes/sticks.
 chemistry: composition is similar to cream
foundations
 using concealer : removed from container w/a
spatula and applied w/a concealer brush or
sponge. Match color to skin as closely as
possible

11.
Face Powder
 Fine cosmetic powder, used to add a matte
or dull finish to the face
 Improves attractiveness of the skin by
enhancing the skin’s natural color, helping
to conceal minor blemishes and
discoloration's
 Toning down excessive color and shine
 Also used to set the foundation

12.
Face Powder
 Chemistry
 loose powder & pressed powder have the same
basic composition
 pressed powders are compressed & held
together w/ binders
 ingredients include talc, zinc oxide, titanium
dioxide, kaolin, chalk, zinc stearate, &
magnesium sterate

13.
Face Powder
 Using Face Powder
 available in a variety of tints, shades &
different weights
 light & medium weights are best for dry to
normal skin
 heavier weight is effective on normal to oily
skin
 should match natural skin tone & work well
w/foundation

14.
Cheek Color
 Also called blush, blusher or rouge
 cream or powder cosmetic used to color the
cheeks & skin beneath the cheekbones
 creates more attractive facial contours

15.
Cheek Color
 Chemistry
 is compact or pressed powder w/ coloring
added
 Oil based cream cheek color
 combinations of pigments in an oil or fat base
 blends of waxes and oily liquids create a water-
resistant product

16.
Cheek Color
 Using cheek color
 liquid - blends well & suitable for all skin types
 apply w/ a facial sponge
 Cream or gel
 resemble cream foundation & preferred for dry
& normal skin
 applied w/ a facial sponge

17.
Cheek Color
 dry ( pressed )
 imparts a matte finish & is the most widely
used
 applied w/ a brush or cotton puff
 loose
 variety of shades & tints
 used to add color to contour the cheeks
 applied w/ a facial puff

18.
Cheek Color
 General rules for application
 apply cheek color where natural color would
normally appear in cheeks
 do not apply the color in toward the nose
beyond the center of the eye
 keep color above the horizontal line at the tip of
the nose

19.
Cheek Color
 do not extend color above the outer corner of
the eye
 do not apply color in a bright, round circle
 blend the color so that it fades softly into the
foundation

20.
Lip Color
 Also called lipstick or gloss
 A cosmetic in paste form, available in a
variety of colors
 Used to enhance or correct the shape of the
lips
 Some contain sunscreen, others contain
moisturizers

21.
Lip Color
 Chemistry
 available in variety of forms
 cream, glosses, pencils, gels & sticks
 all are formulas of oils, waxes & dyes
 castor oil is the primary ingredient
 others use olive, mineral, sesame, cocoa butter,
petroleum lecithin & hydrogenated vegetable oils

22.
Lip Color
 Using Lip Color
 consider client’s preferences, eye color, skin
tone & lip shape
 do not apply directly from container, unless it
belongs to the client
 use a spatula to remove the lip color from the
container & take it from the spatula w/ a
disposable lip brush

23.
Lip Liner
 Used to outline the lips
 Also helps keep lip color from feathering
 Coordinate lip liner w/ chosen lip color
 Sharpen the lip liner & sanitize the
sharpener before every use

24.
Eye Shadow
 Applied on the eyelids to accentuate or
contour them
 Available in almost every color & in a
variety of finishes
 metallic, matte, frost, shimmer or dewy

25.
Eye Shadow
 Chemistry
 cream shadows
 water based w/ oil, petrolatum, thickener, wax,
perfume, preservatives & color added
 powder shadow
 composed much the same as pressed face powder &
powdered cheek color

26.
Eye Shadow
 Using eye shadow
 makes eyes appear brighter & more expressive
 darker shade eye color makes the natural color
of the iris appear lighter
 lighter shade makes the iris appear deeper
 make-up colors should enhance the client’s eyes

27.
Eye Shadow
 Forms
 stick, cream, pressed & dry powder form
 Colors
 highlight color
 lighter that client’s skin tone & may have any finish
 highlight a specific area such as brow bone
 lighter color will make an area appear larger

28.
Eye Shadow
 Base color
 medium tone that is close to client’s skin tone
 used to even skin tone on the eye
 applied all over lid & brow bone before other colors are
applied
 Contour color
 deeper & darker than client’s skin tone
 applied to minimize specific area, to create contour in
crease or define eyelash line

29.
Eyeliner
 Used to outline & emphasize eye
 available in pencil, liquid, pressed (cake ) or
felt tip pen
 make eyes appear larger & lashes fuller
 Chemistry
 consist of wax ( paraffin ) or hardened oil base (
petrolatum ) w/ variety of additives to create
color

30.
Eyeliner
CAUTION: According to the American
Medical Association, eye pencils should not
be used to color the inner rim of the eyes,
because this can lead to infection of the tear
duct, causing tearing, blurring of vision &
permanent pigmentation of the mucous
membrane lining the inside of the eye

31.
Eyeliner
 Using eyeliner
 be cautious when applying
 have steady hand
 sharpen eyeliner & sanitize the sharpener
before each use

32.
Eyebrow Color
 Eyebrow pencils or shadows used to add
color & shape to the eyebrows
 Can darken the eyebrows
 fill in sparse areas
 correct misshapen brows

33.
Eyebrow Color
 Using eyebrow color
 sharpen pencil & sanitize sharpener before each
use

34.
Mascara
 Used to darken, define & thicken eyelashes
 Available in liquid, cake & cream form
 Enhances natural lashes, making them
appear thicker & longer
 Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows

35.
Mascara
 Chemistry
 polymer products that include water, wax,
thickeners, film-formers & preservatives in
their formulation
 pigments are carbon black, carmine,
ultramarine, chromium oxide, & iron oxides
 some contain rayon or nylon fibers to
lengthen& thicken hair fibers

36.
Mascara
 Using mascara
 may be use on all lashes from the inner to outer
corners
 dispose of the wand
 never double-dip

37.
Other Cosmetics
 Eye makeup removers
 oil-based or water based used to remove make-
up
 Grease paint
 heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes

38.
Other Cosmetics
 Cake or pancake makeup
 shaped, solid mass applied to face w/ moistened
cosmetic sponge
 good coverage
 covers scars & pigmentation defects

39.
Make-up Brushes & Tools
Powder brush Blush brush Concealer brush Lip brush
Eye shadow
brushes
Eyeliner brush Angle brush
Lash and brow
brush
Tweezers Eyelash curler Sponges
Powder or cotton
puffs
Mascara wands Spatulas
Disposable lip
brushes
Sponge-tipped
shadow
applicators
Cotton swabs Cotton pads or
puffs
Pencil sharpener

40.
Summary
 Makeup has a magical
quality that speaks to both
the cosmetologist and the
client
 When applying makeup,
you must take into
consideration the structure
of the face; the color of the
eyes, skin & hair; how the
client wants to look;& the
results you can realistically
achieve