AURO TEXTILE
GROUP OF COMPANY
SUBMITTED BY
Mr. R.C. Mishra
Guide by
Mr. Debabrata Nandy
Submitted to
Jagmohan
Roll no. – 10004260020
Govt. Polytechnic Hisar
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I thankful to all staff & workers of Auro Textile on Vardhman group
of company, they helped me at every stage & moreover I feel here
every place is neat & clean. This is very important for product quality
& also for happiness.
I especially thankful to:
Mr. S.K.Ojha Mr. R.C.Mishra Mr. A.H.Ansari
G.M. (Tech. deptt.) V.P. Auro Textile Dyeing Manager
I shall also thankful to Mr. Rupak Mukherjee, Mr. Debabrata Nandy,
Mr. Sunil Mahajan
I also express to wish the same to:
Mr. Tarun Arora
HOD (H.R. department)
For having suggest their valuable ideas and guide me to the
maximum periphery in accordance with each and every aspect and
for stretching their ideal second in de-coding the error to result in a
colorful way.
Greige Department

INTRODUCTION:
Greige fabric that buys from different weaving units comes in this
department. In this department inspection of fabric is done. Accepted
fabric is send to next department. There are two inspection systems
that are mostly used, one in 10 point American systems and other is
4 points Japanese system is used.
I-Inspection / Grading
II-Lot making
III-Mending
I-Inspection / Grading: -
The main purpose of the inspection is to check the Greige fabric for
identify the faults.
Weaving Faults: -
Double Ends, Loose Ends, Broken Ends, Wrong Dent/Draw, Loose
Selvedge, Double Pick, Miss Pick, Design Cut, Knots, Hanging
Threads, Float,
Mechanical Faults: -
Starting Marks, Rapping Marks, Mending Marks, Hole /Cuts, Oil
Stain
Yarn Faults: -
Cockled Yarn, Weft Slub, Slubby Weft, CEP, Count Variation, Hair,
Jute, P Propylene, Black Ends.
Others: -
Oily Weft, Sizing Stain, Hard Size.

Minor Faults: -
The faults can be removed easily in further processing such as in
scouring, bleaching and mercerizing etc.
Major Faults: -
Those faults that cannot be removed in further processing are major
faults such as starting mark, rapping mark, whole etc.
II-LOT MAKING: -
Lot making is the process which is done before Pretreatment. Lot
making is done for easy handling, transportation and dyeing
facilities. Considerations for the lot making are: -
1.Fibre types
2.Constructions
3.Greige width
4. Greige lot
5. Convenience of processing and transportations.
6. Source
7. Customer needs this process is done after see the greige fabric
from weaving (lots) then applies the above factors. Normally 2100
meter fabric easily handling. When fabric come from weaving then
one number is write on the fabric by weavers in order to different
looms, different firm yarns etc. but in the dyeing factories. They had
done lot making fewer than 7 factors.
III-MENDING:-

The correction of the mendable class is called mending. It is also
called repairing of faults. Mending is done by physically and
chemically.
I -PHYSICALLY MENDING: -
In the physical mending these faults are removed broken ends,
broken picks, knots, contaminations.
II -CHEMICALLY MENDING: -
In the chemical mending these faults are removed stains, oils, waxes,
rust, soils, sighting colors.
TYPES OF OIL AND STAINS
Water Soluble Inorganic salts, urea, and sugar Pigments Carbon
Black, Silicates, and Metal oxides. Fats and Oils Animals, Vegetables
and minerals Proteins Blood, milk Bleachable dyes Fruits, vegetables
etc.

Preparatory
Department
Lead cloth It is used in a cleaning of machine. It is save the
threading time on the machines. It is save the fabric in damaging
stage on the machine. It is made by the polyester fiber. It is high

temperature absorbs. Some companies are wastes fabric used in
place of lead cloth.
JUKI Stitching Machine It is used for stitching purpose of
two fabric. In this machine five yarn is used. In the machine
3polyester and 2cotton yarn is used. This machine is manly used for
peaching process on stitching of two fabric.
PEGASUS Stitching Machine It is used for stitching purpose
of two fabric. In this machine two yarn is used. In the machine
2cotton yarn is used. This machine is not used for peaching process
on stitching of two fabric.
Trolley In the trolley fabric is store. It is present in the
industry three shapes (L-shape, U-shape and Box trolley). It is also
used for transportation of the fabric on the machine. In the trolley
1700 – 2300 meter fabric store.
Batch On the batch fabric is store. It is also used for
transportation of the fabric on the machine. In the trolley 4500 –
5500 meter fabric store. It is save the space on the industry.
STITCHING SECTION

In stitching section we stitch the no of small lots to make a lot
of required.
This is divided into three parts
1. Plate form
2. Unfolding machine
3. Stitching machine
1-PLATE FORM: -
This contain unstitch fabric in the form of rollers, bails, and pallets.
2-UNF OLDING MACHINE: -
By using this machine fabric is unfolded and plaid in trolleys.
3- Stitching machine: -
Now stitching machine is used to stitch the fabric width wise and
store in trolleys.
INTRODUCTION: -
•Stitch should be straight.
•Selvage of one lot is stitch on the selvedge of other lot.
NOTE: - The fabric come from grey store, are sent in the bleaching
department. The lot depends upon many rolls of fabric. In a
bleaching department theses rolls are opened, unwind so that the
fabric rolls could be stretched with each other for further process.
The selvedge of a fabric of roll is stretched the selvedge of opened
roll of fabric. Now the fabric is kept in trolleys. The numbers of
trolleys are different with each other. A single trolley have unique
number 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,-----------315, 316 so on, so that the fabric lot

should be identified by trolley fabric is kept 1500 to 2100 Meters
according to the quality of the fabric. We cannot keep fabric more
than 2100 meter. After keeping fabric in a trolley a separate job card
is allotted to a single trolley. There are following information
mentioned on a job card e.g. date, contract, customer, constructions,
shade, process department, grey Lot #, fabric type, proc Lt #, quality,
fabric source, sub-batch #, sub-batch # Qty, grey width, M/c code,
date, shift, start, End, Meters, trolley No, signature operator and
comments. First of all write starting process Date, marketing persons
allots separate Contract No # NDF/OG.3688. There are many lots
may be in a single contract, Customer Name etc. Construction, 20.16
/ 118.63 etc. Shade, what is a shade required black, blue, navy
blue. Process Departments Bleaching, Mercerizing. Grey Lt #, the
persons of grey store allot separate No# 16067 etc.
SWASTIC Machine
(Gray fabric washing machine)
This machine is made in India. It machine speed and vertical drying
range temperature are set according to the fabric quality. It is manly
used washing of gray fabric. In this machine four washers, one VDR
(vertical drying range) and dancer rollers is present. In this machine
any chemical are not used. After by washing fabric lengths and
hardness are decrease. The gray fabric fluffs are remove in the
machine.
WORKING First fabric is enter in the inlet section. The
cloth guider rollers are guiding the fabric. The fabrics are enter in
the washing chamber and wash it after by passing of cloth guider.
The mangle is squeeze the fabric after by washing. The fabric is dry

in the VDR. After by fabric is collect in the plaiter. The fabric is store
in the trolley. In the trolley easily transportation of fabric.
Process flow of Swastic Machine
Inlet Section
WASHING UNIT
VERTICAL DRY RANGE
PLAITER
TROLLY
Parts of Swastic Machine – Inlet section, Guide roller, 4 washers,
Dancer rollers, 4 Padding mangles, VDR, Plaiter.
Inlet section The fabrics are enter in this machine help of
feed roller. It section is known as Inlet section.
Feed roller It is give the motion of the fabric. Without feed
roller fabric are not run to swastic machine. It is attach the starting
and end point of machine.
Guide roller It is guide the fabric on the machine. Without
guider fabric is not possible to running of continuous process. It is
stop the making of the crease. It is also known as cloth guider.
Washer The gray fabric is wash in this chamber. The any
chemical and soap are not use in the chamber.

Padding mangle It is important part of machine. It is squeeze
the fabric after by Washing. Without padding mangle fabric are not
properly dry on the dryer.
Dancer roller It is maintain the tension of the fabric. It is
information speed of the motor. It is save the damaging of the fabric.
VDR It is dry the fabric after by the washing. In the vertical dry
range steam is used. It is give the heating of the cylinder. In the VDR
hot and cold cylinder (27 hot and 3 cold cylinders) are used.
Plaiter The fabrics are out on the plaiter. It is stop the making
of creases. It is help collection of the fabric on the trolley.
Singeing
With this treatment fuzz and fibre ends are burnt off in order highlight
the fabric weave. It is generally carried out on gray pieces and the
residues are removed by a further washing process. An oxidizing
flame, which does not leave any trace of sooty residue on fibres, is
used to carry out this operation.
The flame can be perpendicular to the fabric, and only rarely
tangential; the fabric is positioned at a distance of 1.5 - 4 mm from
the end of the flame and the machine is equipped with a suction
device under the fabric, which attracts the flame and concentrates the
heat on the fabric. The fabric speed can range from 60 to 150 metres
per minute.
The singeing process with perpendicular flame is the most common
one, while the process with tangential flame is used for fine fabrics
(light singeing).
OSTHOFF SINGEING MACHINE

It is a gas singeing machine. In this machine fabric are run four
position. The speeds are set according to the fabric. This machine is
made in Germany. The threading of singeing machine is 60 meter
fabric used. In this machine short hairy fiber are remove on the fabric
surface help of burner. In this machine two burners and four
cylinders are used.
PROCESS FLOW OF OSTHOFF SINGEING MACHINE
FIRST BRUSHING UNIT
SINGEING
SECOND BRUSHING UNIT
OR
QUENCHING BATH
PLAITER
WORKING OF OSTHOFF SINGEING MACHINE
First run the material starting of the singeing machine. After by
running of the fabric machine is start. The fabrics are dry and go to
the brushing unit. In the brushing unit bigger fibre are remove used
of brush. The brushing unit three brushes are presents. The removing
of the bigger fibre fabrics is going to singeing unit. In the singeing
unit short fibre are remove by using of flame. The singeing unit
fabrics are run four position. In the singeing unit two burners and
four cylinders are used. After by singeing fabrics is come in the
Cooling cylinder. It is decrease the fabrics temperature. The brushing

unit flame and ash are remove on the fabrics surface. The fabrics are
collect on the trolley help of plaiter.
Picture 1 - Fabric singeing with perpendicular flame
Picture 2 - Fabric singeing with tangential flame
Parts of Osthoff Singeing Machine Guide roller, Pre-dryer,
Brushing unit, Singeing unit, Beater, Exhauster, Cooling cylinder,
Dancer roller, Quenching bath, Plaiter.
Guide roller It is guide the fabric on the machine. Without
guider fabric is not possible to running of continuous process. It is
stop the making of the crease. It is also known as cloth guider.

Pre-dryer It is dry the fabric before the washing. In the Pre-
dryer steam is used. It is give the heating of the cylinder. In the Pre-
dryer two hot cylinders are used.
Brushing unit The brushes are made by the Nylon. It is remove
the bigger fibre on the fabric surface. After by singeing it is remove
the flame and ash on the fabric surface.
Singeing unit The short hairy fibre are remove on the surface
of fabric by using of flame. In the singeing unit two burners are used.
The burners are burn help of propane gas.
Beater It is beat the fabric and removes the fluff on the fabric
surface.
Exhauster It is exist the fluff and ash on the singeing machine
by using of fan.
Cooling cylinder It is decrease the fabric temperature in the
singeing process. Without cooling cylinder fabric is burn on the
singeing unit. In the singeing unit four cooling cylinder are used.
Dancer roller It is maintain the tension of the fabric. It is
information speed of the motor. It is save the damaging of the fabric.
Quenching bath After by singeing fabric is dip in the water.
It is known as Quenching process. In this process flame and ash are
remove on the fabric surface. It is save the damaging of fabric.
Plaiter The fabrics are out on the plaiter. It is stop the making
of creases. It is help collection of the fabric on the trolley.
Quality M: Bar Position
Yarn dyed fabric & bottom 12 4
Shirting 10 4

All 70s, 80s 10 2
Machine speed = 60 to 150m/min.
Gas pressure = 12milibar
Flame temperature = 1720 C
Steam pressure = 0.1 to 0.5
PERBLE RANGE MACHINE
It is made in Japan. In the Preble range machine brushing, singeing,
desizing, scouring, bleaching are done. The machine speeds are set
according to the fabric. The machine threading is 520 meters. It made

by the stainless steel. It is continuous machine. In this machine lead
cloth is used cleaning of the machine. In the new Preble range after
by reaction chamber –A the multiple washer are used.
Process flow of Perble range machine
Fabric inlet
Fabric tension setting bar
Pre – dryer
Brushing unit
Singeing unit
Quenching bath
Washer no. – 1 to4
Desizing and scouring saturator
Reaction chamber – A
Washer no. – 5 to9

Chlorite bleaching saturator
Reaction Chamber – B
Washer no. – 9 to14
H2O2 bleaching saturator
Washer no. – 15 to19
Washer no. - 20 (Neutralization bath)
Washer no. – 21
VDR
Plaiter
WORKING OF PERBLE RANGE SINGEING MACHINE: -
First fabric is enter in the machine on the brushing unit. In this
section bigger fibre are remove. In the brushing section 6 brush are
used. After by the fabric is goes to the tension setting bar unit. In the

section tension is apply on the fabric. After by fabric is go to the
singeing unit. The singeing unit four burner are used. In the burner
propane gas are used. Before the singeing unit fabric is pass through
the pre-dryer. The end of singeing fabric is go to quenching bath. In
the bath ash are remove. After by removing of ash fabric is go to the
washer. The fabric is wash in the washer. In the washer cold water is
used. It is decrease the fabric temperature. The fabric is going in the
combine saturator of desizing and scouring. The fabric is go to the
reaction chamber- A. In this chamber fabric is store 18 to 25mintues.
After by storage fabric is wash in the washing chamber. The fabric is
go to the chlorite bleaching saturator or Hydrogen per-oxide
bleaching saturator. The fabric is go to the reaction chamber- B. It
also fabric is store 18 to 25 minutes. After by storage fabric is wash
in the washing chamber. The fabric is neutralized with acid or alkali.
After by fabric is washed in the washer. The fabric is go to dryer. In
the dryer steam is used.
Name of chemical used in chlorite bleaching on Preble range
Desizing and scouring agent:-
SIRREX 2UDI, HOSTPAL MRZ, SODIUM PER-SULPHATE,
CAUSTIC SODA LYE.
Bleaching agent:-
FORMIC ACID (HCOOH), METHYL ALCOHAL (CH3OH),
SODIUM CHLORITE (NACLO2)
Name of chemical used in H2O2 bleaching on Preble range
Desizing & scouring agent:-
SIRREX 2UDI, HOSTPAL MRZ, SODIUM PER-SULPHATE,
CAUSTIC SODA LYE.

Bleaching agent:-
H2O2, Lufibrol MSD, Contab BRT, NaOH
Parameters of Preble range on singeing process
S. No. Location item Media Unit Working area Actual setting
1. Pre-dryer Steam pressure Mpa 1.0 to 1.7 1.2
2. Pre-brushing unit Angle Marked on
machine
0 to18 11
3. Gap between roll and
burner
Distance mm 6 to 20 9
4. Post-brushing Angle Marked on
machine
0 to 18 17
5. Flame width Distance mm 200 to 2000 1800
6. Dancer Air pressure Mpa 0.15 to 5 0.35
7. Pressure roll Air pressure Mpa 0.2 to 0.6 0.4
YARN DYED FABRIC PROCESS
SINGING AND DESIZING PROCESS
SINGING: -

When the cloth comes from the loom it has small fibres which are
called fuzz. It must be removed by singing process. Mostly common
used method is gas singing by the help of gas burners.
IMPORTANCE OF SINGING: -
Singing helps us to minimize or reduce the pilling effect. Pilling give
harsh or bed look to fabric. It must remove from fabric to get good
quality
DESIZING: -
Starch remove from the fabric is called desizing. Desizing is reverse
of sizing and is also called steeping. Its main objective is to degrade
size into soluble product so that after washing sizes remove from
fabric and ready for subsequent process.
BRUSH SINGING
The fabrics pass through Electromagnetic and Nomatic rollers, In
Nomatic rollers air pressure and in electromagnetic rollers electricity
these rollers control the width of the fabric the brushing rollers are
moving by motor. Now the fabric pass through six brushing rollers
three are move in clockwise direction and three are move in
anticlockwise direction below brushing portion of machine present
Dust Collector which is collecting the dust . Now the fabric pass
through the Draw Rollers, these rollers are plastic coated the
function of this rollers give grip to the fabric so that the fabric do not
slip and full the fabric Draw Rollers are also moved by motor. The
fabric come on a guide roller then fabric pass through the Dancer
roller, the function of the dancer roller keep tight the fabric should be
come tight next part of machine.
GAS SINGING

In gas singing cloth is passed over gas flames. Now the fabric come
in gas singing portion, there are seven rollers in gas singing portion
which have cold water inner portion so that the fabric do not burn. In
this portion of machine there are
Four burners which are removing the fuzz, four gas burners are used
and are arranged so that first the face and then back side of the cloth
singed in a single passage, above this machine Dust collector which is
collecting the dust. Four rollers are driven by the four motors. Flame
length can be controlled by proper setting of air pressure and its
width should be adjusted according to the width of the fabric. Back
side of gas singing machine pipes are present yellow pipes are giving
gas to burners and white pipes are giving air to burners.
COMMON FAULTS: -
Uneven singing effect
•Across the width
•Across the length
These effects appear in the form of horizontal and vertical strips.
These faults of singing detect the dyeing and these faults are un-
removable.
NOTE: - A suitable guiding principle for singing is the shouter flame
fabric contact.
KYOTO GAS SINGING MACHINE: -
The speed of machine is 120meter/minute. The total capacity of
machine is 82meter fabric. Machine 120000 – 135000 meter fabric
singed and desized in 24 hours.

In continuous process the machine used for singing and desizing. In
this machine singing and desizing is done same time after one
another.
MACHINE PARTS AND FUNCTIONS
Entrance, Electromagnetic rollers, Nomatic rollers, Brushing rollers,
Dust collector, Draw rollers, Dancer roller, Gas burners, Rotary
filter, Saturators, Expenders, Padders, Winding roller,
ENTERENCE : -
From trolley the fabric enter in the machine by the help of tension
roller. There are four pair of cloth guider in this section which help to
minimize the crease.
BRUSHING ROLLERS: -
There are six brushing rollers in brushing portion of machine. Three
are move clock wise direction and three are move anti clock wise
direction. The main purpose of these brushing rollers is to remove
fluff from fabric surface. It contains suction pump that sucks fluff and
with the help of showers fluff is removed from suction pomp.
DUST COLLECTORS: -
There are two dust collectors in machine, which are collect dust from
machine. First dust collector present below brushing portion of
machine and second is present above gas singing portion of machine.
DRAW ROLLERS:-
These rollers are plastic coated. These rollers provide grip to the
fabric so that fabric do not slip, pull the fabric.
DANCER ROLLERS: -

The function of these rollers keeps tight to the fabric. There are three
dancer rollers are present in machine. 1st dancer roller is present
between brushing and gas singing portion of machine above draw
rollers. 2nd dancer roller is present between two saturator along
above padder. 3Rd is present along above solution tank.
GAS BURNERS: -
There are four gas burner are present in machine. In these burners
gas and air is present. Yellow pipes back side of gas singeing machine
are providing gas to the burners and white pipes are providing air.
Regulator distributes the air. With the help of two drawer sand one
dancer, the fabric from brushing section enter into singing section. It
contains four burners. Water flow through the burners so that fabric
remain safe from burning. The maximum temperature of the burner
is 750 C and the pressure of the gas is 4.1 – 40-.7 kpa, while air is 6.1
– 6.9 kpa. Blue flame is touched with surface of the fabric. Burners
are controlled by control panel. The flame touch with fabric at 45
angles. It can be change according to the quality of the fabric. Flame
size normally use is 5” for Lycra quality both lower burner are not
used.
ROTARY FILTER: -
Rotary filter is present along with first saturator. Saturators are
connected with each other by pipes for solution way. Rotary filter
take solution from saturator and filter it, dirty solution is drained and
clean solution is supplied to the saturator. Small motor revolve the
rotary filter.
SAURATORS: -
There are two saturators are present in machine. Saturator has seven
guide rollers are up an eight are down. Saturator solution capacity

1250 liter, temperature of saturator 75C fabric capacity of saturator
is 17 – 20 meters, desizing is done with the help of the enzyme
desizing which is applicable at 7 PH.
EXPENDERS: -
There are three expenders are present in machine. The shape of
expender is like banana. The function of expender, expend the width
of the fabric. 1St
expender is present between two saturator and 2nd
is
present after second saturator and 3rd
is present along winding roller.
PADDERS: - The functions of Padders squeeze the extra desizing
solution from fabric. There are two Padders in machine. 1st
is present
between two saturator. 2nd
saturator is present after second
saturator. The weight is 1 ton.
WINDING ROLLER: -
Winding roller is present in the last of machine. This is winding the
fabric on batcher. The quantity of the fabric on one batcher
according to the quality of the fabric. Winder is a main roller in
winding zone. After completing or rotating time fabric is ready for
bleaching.
DESIZING
It is a process in which we remove starch from the fabric in order to
get good dyeing results. Following types of desizing are carried out,
Rot steeping
Acid steeping
Enzyme desizing

Commonly used desizing is enzymatic /bio desizing.
Working of KYOTO machine on desizing process :-
There are two saturators from which desized the fabric. Now the
fabric comes in 1st
saturator there are seven guide rollers are up and
there are eight guide rollers are below. First saturator have three,
motors 2nd
4th
6th
rollers are driven by three motors, at the top of 1st
saturator exhauster present which exhaust the heat. After this the
fabric passes through the Padder which are squeeze the extra
desizing solution from fabric then fabric pass through the Dancer
roller. Now fabric comes in 2nd
saturator, 2nd
saturator similar to first
saturator. These saturators are connected by pipe. Desizing is done
with the help of the Enzyme Desizing which is application at 7 PH
Advantage of singing come desizing
•Short process
•Cheap process
•High production
•Less labor cost
•More impurities are removed
PREPARATION OF DESIZING SOLUTION
a. First of all wash the tank
b. The tank fills by 400 liter water and then staring.
C. First of all salt is added as a (catalyst) then S.E is added then
K.D(detergent) is added and then L100(desizer) is added.
d. Tank fills by 1000 liter water. Measure 1000 liter water by rod.

e. Start the chemical feed pump and open flow meter according to
the using of chemical.
f. Make a record how much is using.
RECIPE: -
For heavy quality of cotton
L100 (Enzyme desizer) = 14gm/l
KD (Detergent) = 6gm/l
SE (sequesting agent) = 4gm/l
NaCl = 5gm/l
For heavy quality of cotton
L100 (Enzyme desizer) = 10gm/l
KD (Detergent) = 5gm/l
SE (sequesting agent) = 4gm/l
NaCl = 5gm/l
Note: - After desizing the fabric batcher is kept for 6-8 hours in
rotation to keep the desizer within the fabric. It is so because
bacteria’s produced by enzymes take some time to eat starch. If we
will keep it for longer time than a limit then bacteria’s will start
eating fabric after finishing the starch, and if it will keep for a shorter
time then starch could not be eat completely by the bacteria’s. The
PH is maintained from 7-8 and the RPM is usually keeping 100.
SCOURING

Scouring is a process of removing natural as well as synthetic
impurities. In this process maximum cleaning effect is produced with
minimum effect on cellulose natural fibres contains oils, fats, waxes,
minerals, leafy matters and notes as impurities that interfere with
dyeing and finishing. Synthetic fibres contain producer “spin finishes”
coning oils and knitting oils. Mill grease uses to lubricate processing
equipment shift on the processing fabric and contaminate it. “The
process of removing these impurities is called scouring” even through
these impurities are not soluble in water and can be removed by
extraction, dissolving. The impurities in inorganic solvent,
emulsification, forming stable suspension of the impurities in water
and saponification converting contaminates into water soluble
compounds.
CHEMISTRY OF OILS, FATS AND WAXES
Many of contaminates removed in scouring both natural and man-
made are fats, oils or waxes. Many useful products, some used in
scouring are derived from them.
FATS: -
Chemistry fats and waxes are esters of fatty acids: fats also known as
triglyceride, are abundantly produces by natural s vegetable oils
(corn, olive, coconut, linseed and soy bean oil) and as fatty deposit in
animal ( mutton, pork and fish another source of waxes is vegetable
matter, predominantly the hard shing outer coated tropic leaves.
TRIGLYCERIDE: -
Regardless of weather it is of vegetable or animal origins, a fat can
be either liquid or semi-solid. A major factor in determining the
physical nature of the fat in the make-up of fatty acid compounds.

FATTY ACIDS: -
Fatty acids are long chain alkyl – carboxylic acid. The alkyl radical can
be either completely saturated (saturated fatty acid) or (UN
saturated fatty acid)most common chain length in nature is C18.
1-Scouring section of L-Box: -
In the opening of the machine the fabric passes through two Draw
rollers are plastic coated. They grip the fabric otherwise pull the
fabric now fabric passes through the dancer roller, dancer roller keep
tight the fabric. Then fabric pass through the Nomatic rollers, there
are four Nomatic rollers opening of the machine. These rollers control
the width of fabric. These rollers have air pressure. Now fabric comes
in washing portion of machine, there are six washers opening of the
machine. There maining desizing chemical present on the fabric, that
is removed in washers. The temperature of water in washers depends
upon the quality of the fabric. Mostly the temperature of water in fist
washer is kept 92C and the temperature of other washer are kept
95C . the temperature of water in fist washer is kept 92C so that do
not become creases or shrinkage. A single washer has 21 guide
rollers. There are 10 guide rollers are above and 11 are below. Five
motors are present on a single washer, which are revolving the guide
rollers. Heat exchange filter take water from washers and drain.
Heat exchange pump take this cool water and gives to heat
exchanger. Heat exchanger warms the water at 60 and gives to
washers. Sensors valve sense the temperature of water in washers if
temperature of water is not according to the requirement then auto
valve automatically opened after automatically are closed. Steam
pipes along with the washers. Booster pump is also connected with
heat exchanger, it gives fresh water to heat exchanger so that the

pressure of water in heat exchanger maintain. Now the fabric comes
in scouring saturators.
There are two saturators, in which scouring solution is present.
PREPARATION OF SCOURING SOLUTION
• 400 liter water takes in a tank and stirring it.
• Soda ash added in water
• KEB dissolved in water
• After dissolving there are mentioned thinks, stop stirring.
• Now added caustic and measured by scale.
• Further take water in a tank and tank fill by 1000 liter water.
• The concentration of caustic soda checked according to gm/liter.
• Start the chemical feed pump.
• Flow meter opened according to the uses of chemical.
• Checking the concentration of caustic from saturator after 5 or 10
minutes.
• Make a record of uses chemical and how much concentration of
caustic in saturator.
CHECKING CONCENTRATION OF CAUSTIC FROM SATURATORS
First of all we take scouring solution from saturators. 100 ml water
takes in a beaker and then two or three drops of indicators added.
Now we added 1 ml scouring solution by pipette in this beaker and
we will start to added 0.1 concentration of HCl by burette. We will be

added the drops of HCl, at that point the colour of beaker solution
will be changed. It will be noted.
NOTE: - The concentration of caustic is kept in saturator according
to the quality of the fabric. If concentration of caustic is increased
according to the quality of the fabric then flow meter is decreased. If
concentration of caustic is lower according to the quality of the fabric
then flow meter is decreased.
MACHINE PARTS AND FUNCTIONS
The length of the machine is 120m
Draw roller, Dancer roller, Stray, Nomatic roller, Padders, Washers,
Heat exchanger, Exhaust, Scouring and Bleaching saturator,
Steamers Heat exchange, Filter, Heat exchange, Pump, Booster
pump, Air compressors, Liquid feed pump, Feeding pump, Dryer
DRAW ROLLER: -
Draw rollers are plastic coated. The functions of these rollers are grip
the fabric and pull out the fabric.
DANCER ROLLER: -
The functions of dancer rollers are keep tight the fabric.
SCRAY: -The function of scray is when small quantity of fabric
remains on the batcher, we are used stray so that the edge of fabric
on batcher do not mistake. The fabric is felled on the stray slowly –
slowly so that the edge of batcher fabric could be caught.
NOMATIC ROLLER: -

Nomatic rollers have air pressure. The function of Nomatic rollers are
control the width of fabric. There are four Nomatic rollers at the
opening of the L-Box.
PADDERS: -
The function of Padders are squeeze he extra solution from the fabric
WASHERS: -
When fabric come from desizing machine, at that time it has enough
quantity of desizing solution it is removed in washers. There are six
washers at the opening of the machine. There are 21 rollers in a
washer.
There are 10 are above and 11 are below 2,4,6,8,10 rollers are driven
by motors. There are 378 (Three Hundred Seventy Eight) rollers in 18
washers.
The temperatures of washers are kept according to the quality of the
fabric. The washers are connected with each other with pipes.
HEAT EXCHANGER: -
The function of heat exchanger, re-warm the water. The heat
exchanger pump takes cool water and supply to the heat exchanger.
The heat exchanger after taking cool water and after re-warm gives
to the washers by pipe. Heat exchanger warms water temperature
60C. second heat exchanger present after first steamer. This heat
exchanger is also supply warm water to others 12 washers.
EXHAUSTS: -
The function of exhaust is exhausts the heat. There are 10 exhausts
present in L-Box.

SCOURING AND BLEACHING SATURATORS: -
There are two scouring saturators. In these saturators fabric is
treated with scouring solution. Liquid feed pump supply scouring
solution to the saturators from solution tank by piping. After five or
ten minutes, we check concentration of caustic. Bleaching saturators
presents after 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 washers. There are also two
saturators. In which fabric is also treated with bleaching solution. In
these saturators we are also check the concentration of caustic and
H2O2.
STEAMERS: -
First steamer in L-Box has 64 rollers. At upper portion of steamer
13Plaiter rollers.
The running of fabric among these rollers in Zigzag form, Fabric
comes on conveyer. The conveyer is perforated from bottom, at the
top of conveyer gaseous phase the temperature of these gaseous is
102C. Liquid Phase, water temperature is 100 C. Water change into
steam and convey to the fabric. After conveyer tension rod is present
which give tension to the fabric, the function of expender in steamer
spread the fabric, control the width of fabric. The shapes of steamer
expender like a spring. Now fabric comes in Mini Washing, present
Padders, expender and steel rollers. We supply the hot and cold
water to Mini Washing. Second steamer in L-Box has 17 rollers, other
function similar to first steamer. If the speed of machine is running
90 meter/minute then fabric present in fist steamer and second
steamer.
90 meter/minute * 50 steamer time = 4500 meter Fabric in First
Steamer 4500 meter 90 meter/minute * 30 steamer time = 2700
meter Fabric in First Steamer 2700 meter

HEAT EXCHANGE FILTER: -
Heat exchange filter is taking fluff water from washers. It is
connected by motor. It is separate the fluff from water and through
water below, from this place heat exchanger pump take water and
supply to heat exchanger.
HEAT EXCHANGER PUMP: -
The function of heat exchanger pump takes cool water and supply to
heat exchanger.
BOOSTER PUMP: -
The function of Booster pump supplies fresh water to heat exchanger
so that the pressure of water maintain in heat exchanger.
AIR COMPRESSOR: -
The functions of air compressor maintain temperature in panel so
that the working of panel do not disturb. For example: -
Inner panel temperature 28.7C
Outer panel temperature 45.5C
LIQUID FEED PUMP: -
Liquid feed pump supply scouring solution to the saturators from
solution tanks by piping.
FEEDING PUMP: -Mostly after maintenance of machine, a lot of
solution is required in saturators in a single passage. Therefore for
supply of solution from solution tank we use feeding pump it is also
called a direct feeding.
DRYERS: -

There are 48 (Forty Eight) dryers are present at the end of the
machine. These dryers arrange in 4 columns. Each column contains 8
dryers and a tension roller lie b/w two consecutive column to
maintain the tension. After passing through 44 hot dryers then fabric
pass through 4 cool dryers. In last four dryers cool water is present so
that temperature maintains pressure in dryers 0.35 MPa.
TYPES OF ROLLERSFEED ROLLERS: -
Feed rollers used to control the speed of cloth in the machine.
DANCER: -
It is use to maintain the tension in fabric. It is also adjust according to
the quality of the fabric.
SEQUEEZ ROLLERS: -
It is use to maintain the pickup of fabric. The pickup also adjusts
according to the quality of the fabric.
SPREAD ROLLERS: -
It prevent the fabric from creasing

MERCERIZER
RANGE
OBJECTIVES
 To increase luster.
 To increase the affinity for dyes.

 To increase the tensile strength.
 To give dimensional stability
 Use of dye after mercerizing is less
 Width control
INTRODUCTION
This is a typical treatment for cotton yarns and fabrics, which
improves the fabric luster and wettability, ensures a covering effect
for dead cotton improves dimensional stability and dyeing efficiency.
This treatment is carried out using caustic soda (28 - 30° Bé), which
determines the contraction and swelling of the fibres; they become
translucent and increase their tensile strength, but reduce their
flexural and torsion strength. The bean-like section of the fibre
becomes first elliptic and then circular, allowing a better reflection of
light with a consequent increase of luster. The treatment is usually
carried out under tension, with caustic soda at 28°- 30° Bé
(approx.270- 330 g/l).
If the concentration is lower than 24° Bé, the treatment is called
causticization and aims at enhancing the dyeing liquor penetration
into the fabric. The liquor temperature usually ranges between 15-
20° C and its uniform absorption is assured by adding mercerising
wetting agents stable in alkaline environment. Once the operation has
been carried out, alkalinity must immediately be neutralised by means
of a diluted acid solution. From a chemical point of view,
alkalicellulose is the first material to form; the next material, which
forms after repeatedly water washing is hydrocellulose, which is
more reactive than natural cellulose. Cotton wetting entails shrinkage
of the material, which must be kept under tension, to avoid a fuzzy
appearance. Mercerising is carried out on yarns, fabrics.

As far as yarns are concerned, before the mercerising process in
special machines, they undergo a singeing treatment to remove the
fuzz and end fibres. which could otherwise prevent the perfect
reflection of light after mercerising. There are two different types of
machines to be used for woven fabrics: a chain system and a cylinder
system.
Chain mercerising: with the chain mercerising process the fibres
achieve perfect brightness thanks to optimum tension control. This
system runs slowly and allows no flexibility when the width of the
fabric varies. The sodium hydroxide concentration is brought down to
approximately 4 ° Bé by means of a circular shower. The fabric is
then washed, neutralised and rinsed.
Another well-proven mercerising agent is liquid ammonia, which has
to be applied for very short times (about half a second). There are
very few systems based on liquid ammonia due to the difficulties
connected to the use of liquid NH 3 (toxicity, formation of blends that
can explode in presence of air and very strict regulations concerning
the welding of steel sheets used to build these systems that operate at
very high pressures since the boiling point of ammonia is usually
-33°C).
Chain Mercerizing
Chain mercerizing is done on a range equipped with tenter chains for
tension control. The range consists of a pad mangle followed by a set
of timing cans and then a clip tenter frame. Fresh water cascades
onto the fabric to remove the caustic soda as it is held tensioned in
the tenter frame, . The length of the frame must match the range
speed and assure that the caustic level is reduced below 3% before
tensions are released. The tenter frame is followed by a series of
open-width wash boxes which further reduces the caustic level. Acetic

acid is in one of the last boxes to complete the neutralization of
caustic.
Procedure
1. Apply 22 to 25 % (48 - 54" Tw) caustic at the pad mangle at
100 wet pickup. 2. Pass fabric over timing cans. The number of
cans must correspond to the range speed and provide at least
one minute dwell time. 3. Clip fabric onto tenter chains and
stretch filling-wise while maintaining warp tension. 4. Run
fabric under cascade washers to remove caustic. Keep under
tension until caustic level is less than 3% otherwise fabric will
shrink in filling direction. This width loss is impossible to
recover later. 5. Release tension and continue washing in open-
width wash boxes, to further reduce the caustic. 6. Neutralize
with acetic acid in the next to last wash box and rinse with fresh
water in the last. It is important to control these steps because it
is important, in down-stream processing, that the alkalinity
remains consistent throughout all production.
Chain Mercerizing Range Diagram

Points of Concern and Control
For best results, goods should be dry entering the liquid caustic
impregnation unit. Need to get uniform and even caustic pick-up
through out the fabric. Wet pickup must be at least 100 %. A certain
amount of liquid caustic must surround each fiber to provide proper
lubrication so that the fibers can be deformed. Caustic solution and
impregnated fabric temperatures should be controlled between 70 -
100F. Above 110 F, there is a noticeable decrease in luster of the
Mercerized goods. Below 70 F, there is no noticeable improvement.
Proper framing during the washing step is crucial. The goods must be
maintained at greige width to one inch over greige for maximum
luster. The tensioned width must be maintained through out the
caustic removal operations otherwise the fabric shrinks and luster is
lost. If optimum washing is obtained. there will be only a slight loss in
width as the goods come off the tenter clips.
Caustic Concentration Units
Caustic concentrations, expressed as percentages, are ratios
calculated as weight caustic/weight solution. However the specific
gravity or density of the solution(weight/volume) is directly related to
the concentration. Calibrated hydrometers are used to determine
specific gravity. The calibration scales most often used on caustic
solutions are Twaddle (“Tw) and Baume’ (“Be’).
Polyester/Cotton
These can be handled under the same conditions as 100 % cotton.
Even though polyester fibers are sensitive to caustic, the temperature
and time the fibers are in contact with Mercerizing strength caustic
are insufficient to cause fiber damage. One problem with
polyester/cotton blends it that they may not be as absorbent as 100 %
cotton fabrics coming to the caustic saturator. This is because they

have not been given the same thorough scouring and bleaching as
100 % cotton. In this case, special penetrating agents are needed to
help the caustic solution wet out the fabric.
Machine make : Sando iron works, Wakayama Japan.
Threading length: 350metre
Process flow of mercerizer machine
Fabric inlet
Caustic Saturator 1
Timing cylinders
Caustic Saturator 1
Timing cylinders
Tenter chain
Washing bath (4)
Neutralizing bath
Washing bath (3)
Drying range
Plaiter
Parts of Mercerizer Machine Guide roller, Timing
cylinders, Feed roller, Caustic Saturator, Tenter chain, Washing

bath, Shower, chilling unit, Neutralizing bath , Dancer roller, VDR,
Plaiter.
Guide roller It is guide the fabric on the machine. Without
guider fabric is not possible to running of continuous process. It is
stop the making of the crease. It is also known as cloth guider.
Tenter chain It is stretched the fabric on the mercerizer. The
tensions are set according to the fabric. It is control the shrinkage on
fabric. Without this chain fabric is easily shrink.
Chilling unit The chilling unit is provided on the mercerizer to
control the temperature of the caustic.
Feed roller It is give the motion of the fabric. Without feed
roller fabric are not run to machine. It is attach the starting and end
point of machine.
Caustic Saturators The caustic saturators only caustic are
add 240gpl. The fabric are dip in the saturator and squeeze it. In the
mercerizre two saturator are used.
Timing cylinders After by dipping of caustic solution. Fabrics
are passing through the cylinder and give the time. So it is known as
timing cylinder.
Shower It is spray the hot water on the fabric. In the
mercerizer 5 showers is used.
Neutralizing bath In this bath fabric is Neutralised used of
Neutra acid or Green acid. It is save the damaging of the fabric.
Washing bath In the washing process extra chemical is
remove on the fabric surface. In the washer only water is used.

VDR It is dry the fabric after by the washing. In the vertical dry
range steam is used. It is give the heating of the cylinder. In the VDR
hot and cold cylinder (27 hot and 3 cold cylinders) are used.
Dancer roller It is maintain the tension of the fabric. It is
information speed of the motor. It is save the damaging of the fabric.
Plaiter The fabrics are out on the plaiter. It is stop the making
of creases. It is help collection of the fabric on the trolley.
MERCERIZER - 2
After mercerizing increase cost of fabric Rs 2.70 per meter In this
process cotton is dipped in a solution of NaOH so that NaOH
penetrated in to the fibre and then NaOH is washed out completely by
neutralizing by dilute acid like sulphuric acid. When mercerizing
fibre are examined under microscope. It is seen that each fibres in
twisted ribbon like form. After mercerizing fibres become cylindrical
and free from twists. To increase the luster cotton must be prevented
from shrinkage. This can be achieved by stretching the yarn or fabric.
Shrinkage of the fabric can also controlled by mercerization.
INSTRUCTION FOR CHILLER OPERATOR
1-How much Be are required according to this Be prepared but for 28
Be, 26 Be or 20Be prepared according to program.2-In order to grey
fabric 12, 18, 15 caustic Be prepared according to program]
PREPARATION OF CAUSTIC
1-For preparation of 26 Be caustic, take 1200, 1200 liters 32 Be
caustic in both tanks.
2- For preparation of 26 Be caustic in PIT, open the caustic valve and
along with the water valve. When 26 Be should be prepared,
circulation of caustic start so that caustic should be cool.

3- For preparation of 26 Be caustic, take 35 Be caustic and for
preparation of 35Be caustic, 300 liters 48 Be caustic take in to 32 Be
caustic.
4- CHANGE OF Be:- when Be of caustic is changed, for change 20
Be from 26Be, take 48 Be caustic and down the PIT and open the
supply of water. Similarly 26 Be caustic should be prepared.
5- For preparation of 2o Be caustic, down the PIT and open the
supply of water. Similarly 26 Be caustic should be prepared.
6 - When operate the machine, clean the filters at caustic supply.
7 - After each half hour note the Be of saturators, Titration and
Temperature.
8 - During operation check the there is no problem in compressor and
condenser and which is coming water from cooling tower, it is cool.
CHECKING Be:-
Take water into TIP from PIT and keep Be meter into TIP. Now
reading noted.
9 - Temperature of chiller should be 25C.
10 - After every week wash out the Heat Exchanger.
METHOD OF CHILLER OPERATING
1- First of all operate the cooling tower
2- After this operate the brine pump
3- After this operate the compressor during this check the all valve of
operation.

WORKING OF MACHINE
There are two saturators of mercerizing machine. The solution
capacity of each saturator is 700 liter. The solution comes from TIP.
When solution above a limit again come into TIP. NaOH pump take
solution from TIP and supply to the heat exchanger. Brine pump take
water from chiller and supply to the Heat Exchanger, from heat
exchange again solution come in to saturators by piping. When we
required change the Be, take solution from TIP and give to third tank
and again solution is prepared. When solution come from
saturators Rotary Filters clean the solution. Fluff is drained and
solution comes in to TIP. Similarly this circulation continues. After
passing fabric from 2nd
saturator come on stenter, at the beginning
of the stenter Selvedge Guider, which are maintain the width of the
fabric. Scale is present on chain, on this scale mentioned the width of
the fabric according to the chain. There are Seven Shower Pump,
these shower pump are supplying solution to the fabric. There are
Seven Suction Pump, these pump suck the solution. Stenter wheel are
revolving the chain. These are driven by motor. After this 11(Eleven)
washers are present. The temperature of washers is 95C after these
48 Dryers are present. Last four dryers have cool water so that the
temperature maintain.
NOTE: -
The capacity of machine is 480 meter fabric
TYPES OF MACHINARY:
There are two types of mercerizing machines.
1-Chain type mercerizing machine
2-Chain less type mercerizing machine.

Chain type KOTO JAPAN MACHINE parts and their
function are following
MACHINE PARTS AND FUNCTIONS
Enterence, Saturators, NaOH Pump, Be control valve, Brine Pump,
Brine control valve, Recovery pumps, Rotary Filter, Chain Wheel,
Selvedge Guider, Shower Pumps, Suction Pumps, Washers, Dryers,
Heat Exchanger
ENTERENCE: -
After bleaching of the fabric is ready for mercerizing. Enterence
section contains guider tension rollers and spreaders. Fabric passes
all these rollers so that fabric contains no crease. Fabric passes
through 4selvedge rollers so that stretch the fabric in order to
remove selvedge crease. This zone also has a scray. It is also very
important part of Enterence. It is used when there is need to change
batch of fabric. When fabric of J- Scray runs the tension of cloth
guider is increase because there is more chance of crease.
1- SATURATORS: -
There are two saturators. The capacity of solution of each saturator
is 700 liter. it contains caustic solution of required bombe. It contains
three squeezing rollers and 2 spreaders and 8 Padders.
2- NaOH PUMP: -
NaOH Pump is taking solution from TIP and supply to the Heat
Exchanger, give solution by piping to the saturators.

3- BE CONTROL VALVE: -
How much quantity of Be is required? It is taken in a TIP from mixers
by operating Be control valve. It is being operated from panel
4- BRINE PUMP: -
The function of brine pump is circulation of water. Brine pump
supply water to the heat exchanger.
5- BRINE CONTROL VALVE: -
Brine control valve control the quantity of water. The working of
Brine control valve is automatically. It is being operated from panel.
6- RECOVERY PUMPS: -
When we changed the Be of TIP, we take solution from TIP by first
recovery pump and through into third tank. The second recovery
pump is present below showers. This pump takes solution and give to
the Recovery Pump.
7- ROTARY FILTER: -
Rotary filter, filter the dirty water. It drains the fluff and again
supplies water to the washers.
8- CHAIN WHEELS: -
These wheels give direction to the revolving chain. The length of the
chain section is 30 meter and total chain on one side is 60meters the
chain having no of clips. At the start of clips of chain there is a
circular plate that is also moving with the speed of chain or clips. The
function of the circular plate is to open and closed the clips; in start
we keep the width of the chain according to the width f the fabric.
When fabric run some meter width of the chain is set to the required

width of the fabric. Open the chain width wise very slowly because
there is a large chance of fabric tear. After some distance chain
contains 7 showers that shower caustic solution almost 8 bombe on
fabric. This is come from 1st and 2nd washer of mercerizing machine.
The purpose of these showers of caustic is to make sure the well
penetration of caustic solution in fabric.
9- SELVEDGE GUIDER: -
Selvedge Guider, control the selvedge of the fabric.
11- SHOWER PUMPS: -
There are seven Shower Pumps are present. The function of shower
pumps supply solution to the fabric.
12- SUCTION PUMPS: -
There are seven suction pumps. The functions of suction pumps are
sucking the solution.
13- WASHERS: -
There are 11 (Eleven) suction pumps are present. There is difference
between first 3 and remaining 8. There difference is their
construction is change and their capacity of water is changed. First 3
having 5 rollers up and 6 down and other washer having 10 up and
11 down. The capacity of water in first three washers 1000 liter and
other washer having capacity of water 1500 liter. The temperatures
of all washers are 90 C for cotton and for cotton Lycra quality is 95 C .
25 meter fabric in single washer.
4-DRYERS: -
There are 48 (Forty Eight) dryers are present at the end of the
machine. The function of dryer is dry the fabric. These dryers arrange

in 4 columns. Each column contains 8 dryers and a tension roller lie
b/w two consecutive column to maintain the tension. After passing
through 44 hot dryers then fabric pass through 4 cool dryers. In last
four dryers cool water is present so that temperature maintains
pressure in dryers. The dryer pressures are 0.35MPa.
.15- HEAT EXCHANGER: -
The function of Heat Exchanger, exchange the heat of the NaOH.
IDENTIFICATION OF MERCERIZED COTTON
Mercerized cotton can be identified by its microscopic view. Cotton
fabric naturally flat and twisted (ribbon like) after mercerizing fibre
swell, untwist and their cross section change in to round form.
CONDITIONS
• Cotton should be free from sizes and other impurities. If these are
present then mercerized solution should not well penetrate
completely in fabric.
• Temperature required for caustic solution is 25 – 30 C.
•NaOH is used for this purpose because it is cheap. KOH is also used
but it is expensive.
PRECAUTIONS
• Concentration of NaOH
• Machine temperature
• Extraction of alkali
• Steaming time
• Time

• Proper cleaning of machine
• Same lot of fabric should run at same speed.
• Concentration of alkali should be same for al lot of fabric.
FAULTS
1. If a thread remain in a clip then clip disable to grip properly.
2. If alkali remains in fabric for long time then fabric will weak also
white sport appear on fabric.
NOTE: - If want to cure fabric before dyeing then we do mercerizing
after curing because if we do mercerizing before curing then due to
presence of alkali give yellowness to fabric.
NAOH Be/Gpl
Be G / L
6.7 48.9
12 86.7
18.8 157.9
19.8 169
20.9 181
22 194
23 206
24 219
25 231.8
26 244.9
26.9 258
27.9 271
28.8 285.2
29.7 299
30.6 312
38 450
50 772
Sueding (Peaching)

This operation is often carried out before the raising process to
reduce the friction between the fibres making up the cloth and
consequently to facilitate the extraction of the fibre end. The sueding
process is carried out on both sides of the fabric and modifies the
appearance and the final hand of the cloth; when touched it gives a
soft and smooth sensation similar to the one given by a peach-grain
surface. The sueding machine is made up of some rotating rollers
coated with abrasive paper, which emerise the cloth and produce a
more or less marked effect depending upon the pressure exerted on
the fabric by the abrasive rollers. The abrasive paper used can vary
according to the desired sueding degree and must be replaced after a
given number of operating hours, or when it does not properly carry
out suitably the sueding function. In some cases, it is possible to use
also metal rollers with the surface coated with uneven and rough
grains or pumice rollers performing an excellent sueding action on
both dry or wet fabrics. For a very superficial sueding, the natural
abrasive power of pumice can be applied with successful results.
Gray fabrics as well as dyed ones can be subjected to the sueding
process; the cloth to be emerised must be completely free from any
finishing resin or adhesive substance remaining on the fabric surface
after desizing. The sueding process reduces mechanic and
dynamometric resistance of the fabric, thus making it more subject to
tearing and seaming. The fabric can run at different speeds inside the
sueding unit; a smooth pressure is kept thanks to two balancing arms
assembled at the entry and at the exit of the unit. The pieces of cloth
must be sewn with abrasion-resistant material such as polyester or
nylon. The gears must be suitably cleaned with compressed air jets
since the presence of pile residues could clog the ball bearings or
drop again on the fabric surface thus creating some problems with
dyeing machines filters.
 Variable of peaching :-

1. Fabric speed
2. Tension
3. Energy of pile
4. Energy of counter pile
5. Moisture of the fabric
The speeds are increasing the peach less done. Some factor are
depends upon the type of emery paper.
 The emery paper is three type :-
150grid
220grid
600grid
The diamond paper are to type :-
200grid
400grid
 PEACHING
In this process fabric is rubbed by emerising surface to
raise hairs from surface, gives a unique softness and
napped surface – technically known as PEACHING
EFFECT.
 CHECKING OF PEACH FABRIC
Peach effect are judged by touching fabric surface by hand.
Quality of peach is a subjective issue, varies from person to
person.
 ROOT CAUSES OF UN-EVEN PEACHING
Un-even mercerization process change in process condition

or concentration of caustic.Faulty batch preparation.
Unwinding tension of batch at feeding end of
peaching.Worn out emerizing surface.Side-wise shifting of
fabric on emerizing drum-causes LMR(left, middle, right)
peach variation.Moisture in fabric in case of trolley feeding
very crucial.
PARTS OF PEACHING MACHINE
FEED ROLLER
TENSION ROLLER
DANDY DRUM
PILE
COUNTER PILE
PRESSURE GAUGE
BRUSHER
EXHUAST
COUNTER METER
FLUFF CATCHER
In the Auro textile Xetma and Lafer machine
are used.

Sueding machine diagram
Xetma Machine
It is made in Germany. In the machine 24rolls are used. In this
12rolls called pile and other rolls called counter pile. Pile are move
in fabric direction and counter pile are move in the opposite
direction. Pile is cut the surface of the fabric. Counter pile are make
a smooth surface of the fabric. The pile and counter pile speed is not
an equal. In the process fabric weight and strength are decrease. In
this machine emery paper and brusher are also used. The brusher
case six brushes and six counter piles are used. The exhaust is
remove the fluff on the machine. The beater is remove the fluff on the
fabric surface. The feed roller is given the motion of the fabric. The
pressure gauge is given the tension of the belt. Without pressure
gauge machine are not run. The dancer roller is maintain the tension
of the fabric. In the xetma machine one dancer roller are used. The 3

tension rollers are used in the xetma machine. It is give the tension of
the fabric.
Process flow of Xetma machine
Batch
Padding mangle
Drying range
Sueding unit
Brusher and beating unit
Plaiter
Lafer machine
It is made in Italy. In the machine 24rolls are used. In this 12rolls
called pile and other rolls called counter pile. Pile are move in fabric
direction and counter pile are move in the opposite direction. Pile is
cut the surface of the fabric. Counter pile are make a smooth surface
of the fabric. The pile and counter pile speed is not an equal. In the
process fabric weight and strength are decrease. In this machine
diamond paper and brusher are also used. The brusher case six
brushes and six counter piles are used. The exhaust is remove the fluff
on the machine. The beater is remove the fluff on the fabric surface.
The feed roller is given the motion of the fabric. The pressure gauge

is given the tension of the belt. Without pressure gauge machine are
not run. The dancer roller is maintain the tension of the fabric. In the
Lafer machine two dancer rollers are used. The 3 tension rollers are
used in the Lafer machine. It is give the tension of the fabric.
Process flow of Lafer machine
Batch
Sueding unit
Brusher and beating unit
Plaiter
Soaper Machine
It is made in Japan.The soaper machine only soaping and washing is
don.It is remove the extrachemical on the fabric surface.In the soaper
machine 9 washer is used.the first and last washer cold water is
used.In the chamber only cold wash is done.The 4to5 no. washer soap
solution is used. It machine is also used for gray washing. The gray
fabric is wash at temperature 85-90 o
c. In the soaper machine pH
meter are used in washer no 8.
PROCESS FLOW
INLET SECTION
WASHER

SOAP SOLUTION BATH (washer no.4 to 5)
NUTERLISATION BATH (WASHER NO. 8)
WASHER
VDR
PLAITOR
DYEING

DEVELOPMEN
T
Pad-dry machine
Introduction It is made in Japan. It is a continuous machine.
The fabric threading is 160 meters. In the pad-dry machine the
fabrics is pad in the dye and dry it. The dyes are not fixed on the
fabric surface in the machine. After by padding the fabric go to the
I.R.(Infradrol) unit. The fabrics are passing through the I.R. on the
horizontal form. After by the fabric is going to the hot flue chamber.

In the chamber steam is used drying purpose. The steam is passing
through the chamber on the pipe.
PROCESS FLOW OF PAD-DRY MACHINE
INLET SECTION
COOLING CYLINDER
PADDING MANGLE
IR
HOT FLUE CHAMBER
COOLING CYLINDER
PLAITOR
It is a machine which is used to pad, dry and cure to all kinds of
fabrics. This machine is categorized under continuous process of
dyeing.
Machine details of pad-dry:-
Pad-dry consists of following parts that dye and guide the fabric
during dyeing

Batcher, Guide rollers, Cooling drum, Cooling jacket, Trough,
Squeezing rollers, Padder, VTG rollers, IR-dryers, Drying chambers,
Radiator, Heat exchanger, Hot flue chamber and Plaitor.
Now we will see these parts individually.
Batcher:-
When the fabric is taken to dye, it is in the form of batcher that is
taken after mercerizing. The fabric width depends on the size of the
batcher and the fabric of different length is winded on it . This length
may vary from 100 to 70,000 meters.
Guide rollers:-
These are the rollers which are used to guide the fabric from different
paths. Their function is only to direct the fabric toward it’s outlet.
Cooling drums:-
When the fabric is taken from the mercerization then its temperature
is more than the limit. In this state the fabric cannot be react properly
with dye in the trough. So we use cooling drums in which water is
circulating and the temperature of fabric is decreasing gradually.
Their diameter is large as cylindrical to other rollers that is ranges
from 26’’ to 30’’.
Cooling jacket:-
This jacket has very important role in cooling the dye bath. It is
necessary because in hot form dye cannot react with the fabric. Cool
water circulate within this jacket
Trough:-

It is the first main part of this machine. This part is filled with liquor
which is filled with dyes and chemicals. It’s capacity is nearly
1400lilres. It is dozed manually as well as automatically. The
temperature of this bath is room temp. the fabric capacity is 1-1.5m
within this dye bath or trough. following recipe is used in this trough,
• Dyes
• Urea (moisturizing agent)
• Soda ash( for reactive dyes)
• Sodium bicarbonate(for pigments)
• Primazol FFAM (anti-migrating agent)
• NF
Cooling jacket:-
It is a jacket that is used in outer side of the trough. This jacket is used
to make the temperature of liquor cool down, because if it will not
cool down then the dye liquor will not react properly.
Squeezing rollers:-
These rollers have function just to squeeze the fabric which is dipped
in dye bath. In this way dye can react completely with the fabric. It is
a pair of roller that moves in opposite direction and squeeze the dyed
fabric. They are rubber coated and have diameter8’’.
Padder:-
This is the main part of the machine. All the pick-up of dye depends
upon the padder. It is a pair of two rollers. Two rollers move in
opposite direction to each other. These rollers are also rubber coated
but have special type. L-C-R(left-center-right). This is the most
sensitive factor that requires more concentration than any other part.

Basically L-C-R fault means that the fabric dye is varying from left,
right and center. We can say that there are three parts of padder on
which pressure is adjusted to avoid L-C-R fault. This pressure varies
according to the width of the fabric and pickup of dye. Usually pick-
up is 60%.
VTG-rollers:-
These are called vertical tensioner guide rollers. These are the rollers
that give tension and rest to the dyed fabric and fabric contact with
air. There are 9 rollers that are used for this purpose,5 above(driver)
and 4 down (driven). The structural diagram is shown in the following
fig. These rollers contain 9-10 m fabric within their area. The time
taken by the fabric on these rollers is 10-12seconds.

IR dryers:-
These are called infra-red dryers. IR-dryers are also called pre-dryers.
30% of fabric is dry in this section. The temperatures of these dryers
vary from 1000-1300 0
C. These dryers have very important role in
dyeing the fabric uniformly. The fig. of IR is shown as follows, when
the fabric is passed from the padder then there is an uneven dyeing
that causes the face-back problem on the fabric. The structural
diagram of the dye particles shown in the figure after padding as
Two IR are used for heavy quality and one is used for light
quality. And when the fabric is passed through the IR dryers the dye
par2ticles migrate from surface to the core of the fabric with help of
infra-red rays. After passing through IR the dye particles are shown
above on the fabric surface,

Drying chambers:-
There are two drying chambers used for thermo-soling .These are the
chambers where thermo-soling is done. The fabric passes through the
rollers in the chamber and thermic oil react with fabric in these
chambers. The diagram is shown in the following fig.
The thermic oil is given to the chambers in pipes attached to the
radiator and it circulates within the chamber with the help of
circulating fans. The fig. of heat exchanger is shown in the following
fig
The temperature of these dryers vary with quality of the fabric and
dye stuff used because different dye stuff have different range of
temperature for its fixation , 20% fabric is dry in these chambers.

Plaitor :-
This is a device that converts the straight fabric into pile form. It is
used for the trolley outlet. If there is batcher at delivery then it is not
used, but usually trolley is used after scary.
Light box:-
When the fabric is delivering then it is checked in a light box after
500m or 700mdepends on the requirement. L-C-R (left-center-right)
of the fabric is checked in this box to avoid shade variation from all
sides. There are few kinds of lights under which fabric is checked, it
is also depends on the requirement of the customer.
Day light
D-65Sun light
Ultra violet
Fluorescent light
Pad-steam
It is a machine that can dye, steam and wash the fabric. It is an
important part of continuous dyeing. When the fabric is dyed then
washing is required so we use pad-steam after thermo-sol range. In
case of polyester/ cellulose blended fabrics we use this machine for
developing, steaming and washing of the fabric.
Parts of machine
There are following parts of machine that are responsible to handle
the fabric during pad-steam processing,
• Feed rollers
• Cooling cylinders

• Padder
• Trough
• Steamer
• Washing boxes
• Drying cylinders some parts are studied in pad-steamer topic
remaining’s are given as follows,
Steamer:-
It comes right after padder it is a main part of the machine which is
used for steam the dyed fabric. The temperature of this section is
100°C. the fabric remains here according to the dye stuff given as
follows
Washers:-
There different amount of boxes in different machines prepared by the
companies. These washers are suitable for Washing, Rinsing,
Soaping, Oxidation and Soaping is necessary to remove unfix dye
particles from the fabric and then it is washed. Oxidation is the
Pigment dyes not required
Direct dyes 60sec
Vat dyes 30-40sec.(103-105 °C)
Reactive dyes 40-6-sec (102-110°C)
Sulpher dyes 30-45sec (102-110°C)
Combination of
disperse and vat dyes
30-40sec.(102-105 °C)
Combination of disperse and reactive
dyes
30-40sec.(102-105 °C)

process in which the vat dyes are developed. In first padder reduction
is done and in second padder of pad-steam oxidation is carried out to
resize the dye particle of vat dyes. That is why vat dyes have very
good washing fastness. The temperatures of these washers are set
according to the process and dye stuff. It will discuss in last topic.
Objectives of the washing concept and recycling systems
The most important objectives during the realization of the new
washing concept are reduction of the wastewater load (COD) and
simultaneously lowering washing water and steam consumption.
Referred to here is the water consumption of the entire system and not
that of the washing machine alone. In spite of the latest washing
machine technology and already extremely low water consumption
values, further significant reduction of the effective water
consumption can be still achieved by wastewater circulation.
Recycling the waste water is therefore an important derivative of the
main objectives. A further objective of this project, originating from
the fact that re-using the wastewater requires the impurities to be
separated from the water, was to produce concentrates. Concentrates
can be produced either directly at the place of origin (washing
machine) or indirectly on the membrane plant. The concentrate
quantities formed should be small or thermal disposal should be
possible. Large quantities of effluent sludge are undesirable.
The machine concept
The installation referred to is a BENNINGER high-efficiency
washing machine, operating with the counter flow principle. This
means that the fabric and the washing water flow in opposite
directions. The machine concept includes the following standard
modules:· High humidity impregnation (with variable liquor
application)· Bi-functional React a roller-steamer, used as either a
washing compartment for pre-washing the dyed fabric or as a steamer

for pre-treatment processes· 6 vertical roller vat washing
compartments with Extractible-on rollers· 2 Hydrovacvacuum suction
stations The special features of this technology lie in the combination
and operation of the components and the design of the washing liquor
guidance
The BENNINGER EXTRACTA roller vat high-efficiency washing
machine is especially suitable for counter flow washing since each
washing compartment contains up to 7additional washing chambers
(fig. ). The fabric is squeezed through pneumatically loaded lay-on
rollers situated between each washing chamber. The washing liquor
meanders with in the compartment according to the counter flow
principle, meaning that the liquor flow is guided in the opposite
direction to the fabric run. This method of processing results in a high
concentration of wastewater ingredients accumulating contrary to the
fabric run. Other well-known washing systems such as horizontal or
diagonal washing machines, which circulate the liquor, are not
suitable for this application because there are only a maximum of 2
chambers per-washing compartment. The concentration variations in
the washing water are therefore considerably less.
Diagram: - High-efficiency washing machine with bi-functional
steamer
The parameters of the washing machine can be set at will and are
maintained thanks to the modern control system. This enables the

various tasks in respect of water, counter flow and process guidance
to be realized.
Physical problems in continuous dyeing
PROBLEMS IN DYEING
1. General Problems / Non -Technical Problems
2. Process Dependent / Technical Problems
1-General Problems / Non- Technical Problems: -
These problems occur due to wring calculation, wrong recipe, not
good stirring, tint and water marks etc.
Stains: -
Due to aggregation
Due to dirty machine
Chemical and dye solution aggregation.
Improper dye dissolution
Non uniform dispersion
Tint: -
1-Tint occur due to dirty machine
2-Process Dependent / Technical Problems
CONTINUOUS METHOD: -
LISTING: -
This is (L.C.R) left center right problem. Shade different from left to
right reason may be migration, uneven squeezing.
BACK FACE: -I.

Mechanical Problem: -
I.R pre-drying not well
Pick up should be 65%
Should be control air circulation
II. Chemical Problem: -
Anti-migrating agents
Thickeners
TAILING: -
This is major problem shade difference from start to end.
I.Tone Tailing: -
When fabric run on a machine after some meters there is a tone
difference from start and after some running. Reason is affinity
difference.
II Depth Tailing: -
This is a depth (light or dark) shade variation is a fabric.
Affinity Dyes
Depth Tailing
Non-affinity Dyes
Reactive dyes are affinity dyes and vat dyes are non-affinity dyes.
NOTE: -Yellow more affinity then blue, yellow rush to fabric. There
is more yellow% age in solution. To avoid this same class of dye like
Ramazol is use.
PENETRATION PROBLEM: -

For good penetration Moisture Content, pressure, temperature, time
should be same. If penetration is good washing, rubbing and light
fastness is good. Normally (40 – 60 sec)1050
C is required. It is
controlled in steamer.
FIXATION FAILURE: -
 Not required chemical concentration if we get.
 Not proper temperature
 Not proper pressure
UN – EVEN DYEING: -
 Shade variation occurs if dry chamber temperature is not well.
 Speed variation
 Error of dye weight
 Not proper color mixing
 Wrong chemical formulation
 Temperature of chemical solution not maintained
 If washing is not done with proper soap concentration
In continuous dyeing there are so many chemical and physical
problems occurs during continuous dyeing. Continuous dyeing is
divided into following parts .Some of physical problems are given in
details in the following,
1. Padding process
2. The drying process
3. Fixation process
4. Washing process for unfixed dye particles

1-Padding process
In this process the fabric is passed from padder after passing through
trough containing dye sand chemicals. There are four rollers in the
trough. There is one pair of squeezing roller center. The special
designed rollers are slightly different in diameter which is technically
called as crowning.
2-Drying process
The padded fabric should be immediately applied “drying” to satisfy
the next fixation treatment of the padded fabric. Since dye stuffs
have not yet fixed with the fibres in this process, the migration
phenomenon is occurred where by dyes tend to move alongside
Moisture evaporating during drying not only from the inside of fabric
to the surface but also from center to the both sides. Even if dye is
applied to the fabric uniformly in a padding process, migration during
drying process is liable to create such problems as un-levelness
listing and poor appearance. It is necessary to formulate padding
recipes and drying conditions that will minimize the migration as
much as possible.
Drying machines:-
There are two drying machines that are used for drying purpose
• Hot flue dryer
• Infrared dryer
Hot flue dryers are generally work on jet system. Hot air is fall
uniformly over the fabric through jet. They are also called drying
chambers their diagram is shown as follows, Whereas infrared dryers
are basically rays that across the fabric from both sides and it is vary

use full in migration of the dye particles from the core to surface of
the fibre. Although they have no high efficiency as the movement of
the water particles over the fabric surface is rather slow. The infrared
dryers are shown as follows, so for having high efficiency we use hot
flue and infrared dryers combined.
2- Phenomenon of migration:-
Migration is the process by which a dye moves around the fibre or
level itself. The migration process comprises adsorption of dye onto
the fibre surface, migration through the dye liquor, re-adsorption
onto the fibre structure. Migration itself is also heavily influenced by
temperature. The phenomenon of dye migration on
polyester/cellulose blended fabric is classified into two phenomenons
1-The movement of dye particles to the surface of fibre during drying
process.
2-The movement of individual dye molecules into the interior of fibre
during thermo-soling process.
Relation b/w drying mechanism after padding of dye solution and
phenomenon of migration of dye molecules to the surface of the
fabric is considered as follows. First the water evaporates from the
surface of the fabric by the thermal energy from heat source and the
water content decreases on the surface of the fabric. The difference
of water content b/e the surface of fabric and the interior causes the
water movement from the interior of the fabric to the surface by
capillary action. The water begins to evaporate when reaching the
surface but the dye particles moving along with remain and
accumulate on the surface. Some of the vapors produce near the
surface of fabric begin to evaporate as result of the difference in
vapor pressure. The rest of three vapors move into the interior of

fabric and transmission of heat happens quickly inside of the fabric.
The vapors moves into the interior of fabric are recommenced to
liquid and move again to the surface of fabric. After consistent drying
is repeated, the movement of water from the interior of fabric to the
surface eventually ends.
3-Factors affecting migration:-
Air speed
In hot air drying, air speed provides the most prominent influence on
the rate of drying and simultaneously influences upon migration.
Temperature:-
The temperature of hot air for drying is not as effective on migration
as air speed. In general the effect of temperature difference on
migration decreases considerably at temperatures higher than 1000
C.
Humidity:-
Humidity has no effect on migration practically. On the other hand,
the moisture in the hot air is liable to lower drying efficiency by
slowing the drying speed and simultaneously create a difference in
concentration between the surface and the backside of the dyeing’s.
Consequently dyeing should be carried out under low humidity as
much as possible.
Infra-red dryer:-
In hot flue drying, the temperature of padded fabric cannot reach
over 50-600
C on wet bulb until the water completely evaporates from
the padded fabric. In infra-red drying, on the other hand, the
temperature of the padded fabric can be in crease to boiling point.
The material is swelled and the dye penetration into the structure if

the fibre is improved., more over since the bound water in cellulosic
fibre become larger by increasing temperature. The volume of free
water in the fibre decreases and the migration become smaller.
However an excessive radiation of infrared ray will result in drying
under boiling conditions , by which the drying is accelerated and
simultaneously migration become larger , therefore the proper
radiation of infra-red ray should be applied. The most effective drying
method generally follow this sequence , 20-30%water of pick-up ratio
of the padded fabric is generally dried by the radiation of infra-red
rays.
Relation between water contents and migration:
In this stage, free water constantly moves from interior of fabric to
the surface and the dyes migrate to the surface with water on fabric.
When the drying enters into the falling drying-rate period, only the
bound water remains inside of fabric, there for the diffusion of water
to the surface decreases.
Relation between pick-up and migration property:
However, if the percentage of pick-up is lowered too much, the water
retained mechanically in the fibre structure may not diffuse
sufficiently throughout the interior of fabric and cause irregular
distribution, thus resulting in poor appearance of dyeing.
Consequently, besides adding migration inhibitor to the padding
solution , it is necessary to determine the optimum condition for pick-
up according to the sort of fibre.
Migration inhibitors:
The migration property of dyes is largely influenced by the type of
migration inhibitors and by the amount applied. As common
migration inhibitors, sodium alginate and synthetic thickening type

agents of vinyl acetate or acrylic acid types are used. Of these
migration inhibitors, synthetic thickening type agents are inferior to
sodium alginate in migration inhibiting effects but, on the other
hand, they generally show favorable results in appearance of dyeing
because of their better adhesive effect of dyes on polyester.
Sodium alginate synthetic thickening type agent
Thin fabric 0.4-0.6g/l 5-10g/l
Thick fabric 0.8-1.0g/l 15-20g/l
Particle size of dyes:-
In case of water insoluble dyes such as disperse dyes and vat dyes;
the degree of migration varies according to the particle size of dye as
shown in the following table,
Size of dye particle Migration index(M)
Without thickening agent
Over 2micron
Ca.1micron
0.4-0.6micron
0.1-0.3 micron
0.03-0.07 micron
Under o.o3 micron
1.47
1.71
1.86
1.88
1.91
1.93
Fixation process:-
The following processes are applied from fixing disperse dyes on
polyester fibres,
1. Thermo-sol method
2. High pressure steaming method

3. High temperature (HT) steaming method
Thermosol method:-
This method , applying drying heating to fix disperse dyes on
polyester fibres, is generally used for fixation in continuous dyeing of
polyester /cellulosic blended fabric.
High pressure steaming method:-
This method applies the continuous high pressure to fix disperse dyes
on to the polyester fibre. In comparison with thermo-soling method
and high temperature steaming method, this method has
advantages of high fixation and less staining on cellulosic fibres, but
on the other hand is liable to show poor reproducibility unless water
contents and pH controlled accurately.
High temperature steaming method:-
This method, applies super-heated steam to fix the disperse dyes on
polyester fibres, is gaining popularity, especially recently, for fixation
of print on polyester woven fabric.
Continuous dyeing of polyester/ cellulosic fabrics with
disperse dyes and vat dyes
Method: - Pad-developing
For continuous dyeing of polyester /cellulosic blends with disperse
dyes and vat dyes. Two methods are usually adopted,
One bath method
Two bath method

One bath method:-
In one bath method, blends is padded through the solution
containing disperse dyes and dispersed type vat dyes, after drying,
disperse dyes are developed on polyester fibres by thermo-soling and
vat dyes are developed on cellulosic fibres.
Two bath process:-
In two bath method, disperse dyes are first applied on polyester fibre.
By thermo-sol dyeing and then vat dyes are applied on cellulosic
fibres in a separate process.
Procedure of disperse dyes in continuous dyeing
There are so many combinations of blended fabrics. Each blended
fabric has its own process to dye. Disperse dye is purely used for
polyester fabric and vat for cotton. Now we will study about the
process and behavior of these dyes during process.
1. Behavior of disperse dyes in padding process:-
The padding process is very important in continuous dyeing. In order
to obtain dyed fabrics of superior quality and good reproduce ability,
it is necessary to pad dye solution evenly on fabric in padding
process. To meet these requirements there are many parameters
that should be taken into account.
•Tailing:
The phenomena called tailing will vary depending upon the kinds of
fibres and substantively, particle size and disperse-ability of dyes.

On the good hydrophilic fibres like cellulosic fibres, water with
primarily absorbed on fibres. The concentration of padding solution
increases as time elapses, and eventually reaches equilibrium at level
of concentration about20% higher than that of original padding
solution. In contrast on hydrophobic fibres such as polyester, the
hydrophobic dyes is absorbed primarily as shown in curve [2] , the
concentration of padding solution increases as time elapses , and
eventually reaches equilibrium at level of concentration about 20%
higher than that of original padding solution
This behavior to minimize tailing in blends, though depending upon
blending ratio, May distributed to the mutual reaction between the
hydrophobic of cellulosic fibres, and also to use of thickening agent
with a high degree of hydration as migration inhibitor in practical
padding solution.
•Speck:-
The formation of speck during padding is largely influenced by
particle of size of dyes, the compatibility of these dyes with migration
inhibitors and penetrating agents etc. though depending upon the
structure and density of woven fabric, the dye particle which will be
larger than 3 micron causes formation of specks in case of polyester /
cellulosic blended poplin fabric. If dye disperse ability caused by poor
compatibility between dyes and auxiliaries remarkably deteriorates,
it leads not only formation of specks on the fabric but also tailing
problem. furthermore , dispersion solution are sometimes applied or
stored for a longer time after preparation until padding finished, and
dispersed dyes which stain the wall of pad trough are dried and then
drop back into the padding solution., there disperse-ability of dyes is
one of the important factor for the formation of speck on fabric.
• Listing:-

The phenomenon called listing refers to differences in color strength
and shades on the dyed fabrics as a result of unleveled dyeing from
selvedge to selvedge and from selvedge to center; the following are
points reasoning the listing.
 Uneven drying of fabric prepared from padding from selvedge
to center and selvedge to selvedge variation.
 Uneven temperature of material.
 Uneven pressure of squeezing.
 Uneven temperature of padding solution.
 Uneven feeding of padding solution.
 Difference in dye migration due to air viscosity.
 Differences of temperature dependency of disperse dyes during
their thermo-soling.
2-Behaviour of disperse dyes during drying:
Problems during IR drying and hot flue drying include the migration
of disperse dyes and the influence on the chemical structure of
disperse dyes by oxidation gases. Concerning migration of dyes, this
problem should be comparatively easy to solve when one dye will be
used alone. There for it is important to select similar dyes inn
migration properties in order to avoid listing, shade difference of
between surface and backside of fabric. Regarding the chemical
change caused by oxidizing gases, partially no problem ever occurs
when steam or elasticity is applied. In contrast, the major problem
occur when IR dryers or hot flue dryers directly heated with gas is
applied.
3-Behaviour of disperse dyes during thermo-soling process:

In padding of polyester /cellulosic blended fabric with disperse dye
solution because of difference between hydrophobic and hydrophilic
property of the blend, distribution of disperse dyes tends to be more
on cellulosic fibres than on polyester fibres. To obtain good levelness
and appearance of the dyed fabric, however, disperse dyes should be
distributed as uniformly as possible on both polyester and cellulosic
fibre in padding solution. In thermo-sol process , the disperse dye
particle on both fibres are vaporized into molecular form by heating,
and ,the molecular movement of polyester fibre area simultaneously
stimulated by this heat, and then disperse dyes which is mean while
vaporized into molecules are dissolved an exhausted into amorphous
region of polyester , of which inter molecular linkage was already
loosed. On the other side, disperse dyes on cellulosic fibres also
vaporized and migrate onto polyester fibres, but in this case , the
color yield ratio lower than that of disperse dyes on polyester fibres.
Consequently , in thermo-sol dyeing of polyester /cellulose blended
fabric (65/35) with disperse dyes , a fixation ratio is only 70-80% and
rest of 20-30% either sublimate and diffuse into atmosphere or else
remain on the cellulose fibres are also called staining on cellulose.
Procedure of vat dyes in continuous dyeing
The processes of vat dye in continuous dyeing show the following
behaviors during dyeing process.
1-Behaviour of vat dyes in padding solution:
The behavior of vat dye is similar to disperse dye. There are following
precautions that should be taken into account,
Precautions during padding
The following precautions are necessary to get uniform padding with
dye solution on blended fabrics.—disperse ability of dyes and stability

of dispersion.--compatibility of dye dispersion (including compatibility
of disperse dyes)
Precaution during drying process:
The most important point to keep mind during drying is to avoid
problems such as listing, color difference from back to face, and poor
surface appearance, caused by dye migration.
2-Behaviour of vat dyes during thermo-soling of process
In one bath dyeing of blended fabric, disperse dyes are developed by
thermo-sol treatment. In this thermo-sol process vat dyes are not
chemically influenced, but a certain type of vat dye is stained
polyester fibre. When the degree of staining of vat dyes on polyester
fibre becomes high, dyeing strength and shade of polyester fibre
portion and light fastness are liable to be influenced. This property
depends upon not only the chemically constitution of vat dyes but
also impurities contained in these dyes. Due to the difficulty to
prevent staining on polyester by vat dyes through using auxiliary and
modification of dyeing procedure. It is necessary to select vat dyes
which have the least staining on polyester fibres. Furthermore
staining on polyester by vat dyes in thermo-soling become higher
ratio in paler shade. In contrast, the ratio of staining in deep shades,
does not increase therefore it is necessary to be mined in pale dyeing.
3-Behaviour of vat dyes during in chemical padding process:-
The chemical padding process in the proper application of caustics
soda and hydro sulphate that are necessary for reducing dyeing of
vat dyes. The proper amount of then is required depending on kinds
of vat dyes and dyeing depth. When formulation of chemical solution

is not properly prepared and /or temperature of it increases. The vat
dyes padded on the fabric are liable to drop and thus lead to such
problems as tailing and high level dyeing’s. The temperature of
chemical bath should therefore be kept in around 20 0
C or preferably
bellow 15 0
C. Furthermore, it is possibly dangerous that temperature
of chemical solution increases by excess steam of if the chemical tank
is mounted too close to the steamer. To avoid this risk, therefore, the
tank should be equipped with cooling system. Beside above
mentioned control of temperature of a chemical bath. Another
preventive to avoid bleeding of vat dyes into a chemical bath are (a)
an increase of the amount of migration inhibitors. Vat dyes are
padded to minimize migration of dyes to the fabric surface and (b)
not strong nip pressure during chemical padding the pick-up of
chemical padding should be recommended from 15-20% more than
the pick-up of padding at any rate. It is necessary that should be
strength chemical solution for developing of vat dyes are padded and
also that appropriate adjustment of padding solution should be
made not to flow out to surface of fabric during subsequent
steaming. In continuous dyeing of polyester/cellulose blends will
disperse dye sand a vat dyes.
4-Behaviour of vat dyes during in steaming process:
Immediately after chemical padding the fabric is padded into a
steamer and steamed under saturated steam. In the steaming
process the vat dyes immediately form water soluble leuco salt which
has strong affinity to cellulosic fibres and then immediately dye
cellulosic fibres. In case it takes longer time to introduce the fabric
into a steamer of a chemical padding or if air accidently enter into a
steamer ,H2S on the fabric is liable to be consumed much and normal
reduction and dyeing of vat dyes cannot be obtained. In addition in
case of super-heated steam in a steamer or if pick-up ratio of

chemical padding is lower. The moisture retained in fabrics is liable
to accurate, and reduction and dissolution of vat dyes become
insufficient and result in insufficient dyeing. the most
recommendable steaming time is 30-40 sec. a steaming for more
than 40 sec. will cause over reduction of vat dyes, and the normal
dyeing will not be obtain. A shorter steaming is also resulted in
insufficient dyeing. The reduction and dyeing mechanism of vat dyes ,
behavior of leuco salt and kinds of vat dyes will be described in the
following,
1-Basic reaction of reduction and dyeing of vat dyes are shown in the
following table,
Oxide leucoacid leucosalt oxide
Solubility In water insoluble insoluble soluble insoluble
Dye ability on
cellulosic fibres
non non excellent non
dye ability onto
polyester fibre
trace trace non trace
Vat dyes, in general, require a reduction potential between -650mv
and -1,000mV to convert into leuco acid. To reduce all kinds of vat
dyes , a reducing agent which has a reduction potential of lower than
-1,000 mV is necessary . from this point of view hydro-sulphite is the
most suitable reducing agent.2-Chemical change of leuco salt: As
stability of leuco salt of vat dyes is poor , when application
temperature amount of caustic soda and hydro-sulphite, or quality of
water are improper. The following chemical change are liable to
occur thus causing color change ,decreasing of color value and poor
reproduce ability
•Over reduction
When temperature is too high or concentration of hydro-sulphite is
abnormally high, over reduction is liable to occur.

•Hydrolysis
When temperature is too high or concentration of caustic soda is
abnormally high, over reduction is liable to occur.
De-halogenation When temperature is too high or concentration of
caustic soda and hydro-sulphite is a normally high, de-halogenation
is liable to occur.
5-Behaviour of vat dyes in oxidizing and washing process
After steaming, the fabric moves into washers through a water seal,
but, the temperature of water in water seal tends to increase and
easily to be different in temperature distribution. As they may cause
un-level dyeing, it is necessary to keep overflow in a water seal.H2O2
is the most common oxidizing agent, when potassium dichromate is
applied as oxidizing agent, chrome ions are liable to be absorbed
onto the fabric, and these ions cannot be eliminated completely
during washing. Since soaping time in an open width washer is
generally short, it is necessary to apply higher temperature as
possible to eliminate impurities and dispersing agents from fabric.
Continuous dyeing of polyester/cellulose blended
fabrics with disperse and reactive dyes.
Method: pad-dry-pad-steam
One bath method
Two bath method
In one bath process, both disperse and reactive dyes are padded in
the same bath and developed either together or separately onto the
respective fibres. The former is called one bath one step dyeing
method and the later is called one bath two step dyeing method.

In two bath method, disperse dyes and reactive dyes are applied onto
polyester fibres and cellulosic fibres respectively.
2We have studied the procedure of disperse dyes in last topic so now
we will study about the procedure and behavior of reactive dyes
during continuous dyeing.
1- Reactivity of reactive dyes:
The reactivity of reactive dyes mainly depends upon the reactive
group. For example, di-chlorotriazine dyes which exhibit high
reactivity (procion MX) are said to be 1000-100000 times than that of
tri-chloro pyrimidine dyes which are low reactive. Reactivity of the
reactive dyes which contains the same reactive group vary depending
upon the structure of dye chromophore .
A -Affinity of reactive dyes
Since continuous dyeing is carried out at remarkably shorter liquor
ratio than exhaust dyeing, deep shades can be obtained with low
affinity dyes. The simple washing can be only applied in continuous
dyeing. After dyeing.
B -Diffusion of reactive dyes into inside of the finer.
Due to their relatively low molecular weight, reactive dyes generally
show good diffusion properties. When the affinity is almost same as
others, the dyes with higher diffusion show higher color yield onto
fibre.
One bath pad dry thermo-fix method
Padding drying thermo-soling washing
Disperse dyes

Reactive dyes
Alkali
Conditions
Urea 50-100g/l
Migration inhibitors 0.5-1.0g/l
Penetrating agent 1-3ml/l
Sodium bicarbonate 10-20g/l
Padding 20-25°C
Pick-up 50-70%
Drying 110-130°C
Thermo-soling 190-220°C
Time 60-120sec.
Washing open width soaped
Pad-steam
Box Process conditions
1 cold rinsing 20-30°C with over flow
2 warm rinsing 40-50°C with over flow
3 hot rinsing 60-70°C with over flow
4 boiled rinsing 80-100°C
5, 6, 7 soaping 95°C, 1-3g/l surfactant
8 warm rinsing 50-80°C

9 cold rinsing 20-30°C with over
One bath-two step pad thermo-sol alkali pad steam
method
Padding drying thermo-soling padding steaming
washing
Disperse dyes
Reactive dyes
Conditions
Migration inhibitors 0.5-1g/l
Penetrating agent 1-3ml/l
Mono sodium phosphate (pH adjustment) 1g/l
Padding 20-25°C
Pick-up 50-70%
Drying 110-130°C
Thermo-soling 190-220°C
Time 60-120sec.
Glauber’s salt 250g/l
Caustic soda 10-20ml/l
Soda ash 0-20g/l
Reduction inhibitors 10g/l
Steaming 100-105°C

Time 20-30sec.
2Washing open width soaper
JET DYEING MACHINE
MLR’s of Various Jet based Machines:
Old Jet 1:8
Rapid Jet 1:6
Super Rapid Jet 1:4-1:5
Soft flow 1:1-1:1.5
Over flow 1:4-1:5
Air Flow 1:1
Jet Pressure:
Jet pressure: 15-20 psi. Adjust jet pressure according to the quality.
In case of soft flow dyeing machine pressure is very low from 3psi to
10psi. Because in this machine fabric is moved mechanically and jets
are used only to penetrate the dye liquor in fibres.
NECESSARY ACTION: Adjusting the jet pressure according to the
quality.
Recipe: No standard for recipe it is as per the quality of fabric.
pH: During dyeing it is checked by pH meter or pH paper, 4.5-5.5 is
the standard.
NECESSARY ACTION: Adjust the concentration of acid buffer.
Temperature:

STANDARD: The standard is set during dyeing as per the
requirement with the help of thermometer.
NECESSARY ACTION: Ensure uniform heating rate as per the
dyeing program. Maintain uniform steam pressure, and conform
effective working of thermostat.
Dyeing time: Dyeing time is kept as per the previous records in
record book. Ensure desired holding time for the dyeing. Rapid jet
takes 1 hour, old jet and beam take 2.5 hours, soft flow also takes 2-
2.5 hours for completion of dyeing.
Vessel Pressure: During dyeing, pressure gauge reading on jet
should be 25psi, for soft flow it should be 20-25 psi. So ensure
optimum pressure.
JIGGER DYEING MACHINE
Fabric preparation:
POINTS TO CHECK: Absorbency, whiteness, pH of core fabric,
creases of the fabric and the selvedges.
STANDARD: Uniform whiteness, Ph must be neutral, and fabric
should be crease free.
NECESSARY ACTION: Give two acetic acid or formic acid wash. If
the absorbency is not proper then rescouring is to be done. If uniform
whiteness is not there then segregate the fabric. If creases are there
then pass through the stenter to remove the creases.
Batching:
STANDARD: Knife cut batching (very even batching). If batching is
not even, then segregate the fabric or dry the fabric on the stenter.