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DSD-INT 2018 Non-hydrostatic wave modelling of nearshore processes with improved dispersive behaviour - de Ridder

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Presentation by Menno de Ridder, Deltares, at the XBeach User Day 2018, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2018. Thursday, 15 November 2018, Delft.

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DSD-INT 2018 Non-hydrostatic wave modelling of nearshore processes with improved dispersive behaviour - de Ridder

  1. 1. 1 Non-hydrostatic wave modelling with improved dispersive behavior
  2. 2. Content 2 - Introduction - XBeach-nh+ - Dispersive behavior - Bound Waves - Complex bathymetry - Results - Fringing reef - Barred beach - Conclusion
  3. 3. Introduction 3 Wave-averaged Wave-resolving
  4. 4. Introduction 4 Shallow waterDeep water 𝑐(𝐿) 𝑐(ℎ)
  5. 5. XBeach-nh+ 5 Pressure 𝑧 𝑞 Layer 1 Layer 2
  6. 6. XBeach-nh+ 6 𝑧 𝑞 Layer 1 Layer 2 𝑞2 𝑞1 𝑞0 = 𝑞1
  7. 7. Dispersive behavior 7
  8. 8. Bound Waves 8 Bound: Δ𝑓 = 𝑓1 − 𝑓2 Δ𝑘 𝑏𝑛𝑑 = 𝑘1 − 𝑘2 Biochromatic wave group over a horizontal bottom Free: Δ𝑓 = 𝑓1 − 𝑓2 Δ𝑘 𝑓𝑟𝑒𝑒 = 𝑑𝑖𝑠𝑝(Δ𝑓) 1/𝐿 𝑎 1/𝑇 𝑎
  9. 9. Bound Waves 9 1. Bound wave energy 2. Free spurious energy
  10. 10. Complex bathymetry 10
  11. 11. Fringing reef 11
  12. 12. Fringing reef 12 Validation - Bulk wave properties - Spectral properties - Wave shape
  13. 13. Barred beach 13 Boers test 1C JONSWAP: Hs=0.1; Tp=3.33 Forced bound and free components
  14. 14. Barred beach 14 Validation - Bulk wave properties - Spectral properties - Wave shape
  15. 15. Conclusion 15 1. Improved dispersive behavior 2. Complex bathymetries 3. Accurate result for both reef and barred beach environments

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