HERBAL TECHNOLOGY AN OVERVIEW ITS
STANDARDIZATION IN FORMULATIONS
Prof. A. Ravi Kumar M.Pharm., Ph.D
HEAD OF DEPARTMENT
PHARMACOGNOSY
TOPIC:
HERBAL TECHNOLOGY AN OVERVIEW ITS STANDARDIZATION IN FORMULATIONS

1.Introduction1.Introduction
2.Classification2.Classification
A. Skin cosmeticsA. Skin cosmetics
• CreamCream
• Lip balmLip balm
• PowderPowder
• Lotion & LinimentLotion & Liniment
• Face packFace pack
• Deodorant & antiperspirantDeodorant & antiperspirant
• Bath preparationBath preparation
B.Hair cosmeticsB.Hair cosmetics
• ShampooShampoo
C. Tooth cosmetics
• Mouth wash
• Dentifrices
D. Nail preparation
E. Shaving preparations
F. Foot preparations

INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION
Definition of cosmetic:Definition of cosmetic:
Cosmetics by their intended use, as articles intended to beCosmetics by their intended use, as articles intended to be
rubbed. Poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced in to, orrubbed. Poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced in to, or
otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing,otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting, attractiveness, or altering thebeautifying, promoting, attractiveness, or altering the
appearance.appearance.
HERBAL COSMECEUTICALS:HERBAL COSMECEUTICALS:
Cosmetics containing an active ingredient obtained from plant
origin.
Objectives:
To enhance the general appearance of face and other body
parts to minimize the skin defects to a considerable extent
Psychological, social and clinical application.

The main function of this covering is to protect body, eliminate
waste material & regulate body temperature.
CreamsCreams
semi-solid emulsions that is mixtures of oil and water
Uses of creamsUses of creams Ideal characteristicIdeal characteristic
Protect the skin Non toxic
Retention of moisture Easily spreads
Cleansing Remains stable
Emollient effects Not too hygroscopic
As barrier with sunscreens Easy to remove

1.1. According to emulsion phaseAccording to emulsion phase
 W/O creamsW/O creams
Eg: Cold cream, Emollient cream
 O/W creamsO/W creams
Eg: Shaving cream, foundation cream,
Vanishing cream
2. According to functional aspect2. According to functional aspect
• Cold & cleansing creams
• Night & Nourishing creams
• Vanishing & Foundation creams
• All –purpose cream
• Others : Anti-acne, anti-wrinkle cream

Invented by GalenGalen: Galen's cold cream was based on
beeswax and water, also containing olive oil and rose petals
for softness and scent.
It is an emulsion of water and certain fats (W/O)
Normally following base are used:Normally following base are used:
Almond oil, white bees wax
Borax (used as emulsifier),Rose water
Method of preparation:Method of preparation:
Dissolve borax in hot rose water.
Melt various waxes together keeping the temp. about 70°C.
Mix both the oil & water phase at same temp. with constant
stirring.
Mix without heat for 1 hrs &when cool (45-50°C), add perfume
For example: (Red apple extract)

o/w Creamso/w Creams
When applied to the skin leave an almost invisible layer on it.
Produce emollient and moisturizing effect.
Method:Method:
•Melt stearic acid & lanolin. Mix water, glycerine, extract & triethanolamine
&warm to same temp. as that of melted stearic acid and lanolin. Mix with
continuous stirring.
• Add preservative &perfume. Mix them thoroughly in order to obtain a
uniform product
vanishing cream:vanishing cream:
Stearic acid, Glycerin, Lanolin,
Triethanolamine,
Natural jojoba extract, Preservative,
Water, perfume.

It is non greasy &provides nourishment & protection to the
skin.
Example:
Ingredients:
Aloe vera (Nourishes & moisturizes the skin)
Indian Kino tree, Ashwaganda (Protect skin from pollution & dry weather)(Protect skin from pollution & dry weather)
Gotu Kola (May increases the production of collagen)
Other Ingredients:
Liquid paraffin, Glycerin,BHT,
Sodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol,
Methylparaben,etc.

Nourishes the skin all night with revitalizers, nutrients &
moisturizers.
It provides moisture to the skin by preventing evaporation.
Composition:
Pyrus malus (Crab Apple): Cooling, Soothing and Keratolytic
Triticum sativum (Wheat): Preventing black heads.
Citrus limon (Lemon):It protects the skin
from oxidative damage
Lilium polyphyllum (White Lily): Astringent
Solanum lycopersicum (Tomato):Antioxidant

A great moisturizer for dry skin that helps heal, repair, and
maintain soft, supple skin.
Increasing skin hydration (by reducing evaporation)
Method of formulation:
Heat coconut oil & beeswax until wax melt.
Stir & cool
slowly add theslowly add the aloe veraaloe vera gel a drop at a time.gel a drop at a time.
Continue stirring & when the mixture thickens,
add the vitamin oil & chamomile extract.
Ingredients
Aloe vera gel
Chamomile
extract
Vitamin E
Coconut oil
Beeswax

It acts as a superficial disease that affects the hair follicles and
oil secreting glands of the skin.
Composition actions
Lens culinaris(Lentil) Reduce inflammation
Silk cotton tree Astringent
Saurashtri(Alum) Emollient
Vitex negundo Anti-inflammatory

Sunscreen cream are those topical preparations which
protect the skin by harmful sunlight either by scatter
sunlight or to absorb erythemogenic radiations.
ExamplesExamples
Aloe vera
Fat-soluble walnut extract
Bees wax
Hydrogenated ricinus oil

It delays wrinkles and smoothes fine lines.
Regular use prevents oxidative skin damage.
Composition Action
Aloe vera antibacterial &
antifungal
Papaver rhoeas emollient
Vitis vinifera nourish the skin
Solanum lycopersicum antioxidant
Santalum album alleviate itching and
inflammation.

It inhibits the formation of melanin.
It reduces pigmentation.
Composition Action
Rosa centifolia improves complexion
Citrus reticulata removes blemishes
Aloe vera moisturizes and softens skin.
Rubia cordifolia reduces freckles
Santalum album reduces irritation
Sympiocos racemosa lightens color

It prevents chapping, drying & cracking of the lips.
It contains a natural UV filter and Vit.E which nourishes, tones
and softens the lips.
Composition Action
Ricinus communisrelieve various inflammatory
conditions of the skin & mucus
membrane
Cocos nucifera emollient (softening the lips)
Triticum sativum prevents loss of moisture from
the skin (vit.E)
Wrightia
tinctoria
Anti bacterial , astringent
Daucus carota sunscreen & fragrance

Lotion
A lotion is a low- to medium-viscosity, topical preparation
intended for application to unbroken skin; creams and gels
have a higher viscosity. It is applied without friction.
Most lotions are oil-in-water emulsions.
Lotions can be used for the delivery to the skin of medications such as:
Antibiotics ,Antiseptics ,Antifungal ,Corticosteroids ,Anti-acne agents
Soothing, smoothing, moisturizing or protective agents.
Various types of lotions are
Hand and body lotions
Skin toning lotions
Astringent lotions
Medicated lotions

The raw materials used in making the lotion includesThe raw materials used in making the lotion includes
Natural gums (family- Leguminosae)
Gum acacia (Acacia arabica)
Guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonolobus)
Tragacanth (Astragalus gummifer)
Natural astringents
Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
Rosemary oil (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Natural antiseptic
Haldi (Curcuma longa)
Eucalyptous oil
Neem
Natural preservatives
Artemisia afra
Pteronia incana
Cooling agents
Menthol (Mentha piperata)
Water, Glycerin and other
humectants, Alcohol,
perfume

Face packs
It stimulates the blood circulation, tone the muscles and
maintain the elasticity of the skin.
Also they draw out impurities from the pores.
Composition Action
Azadirachta indica antibacterial ,
helps in controlling
acne and pimples
Fuller's earth anti-inflammatory
Curcuma longa antiseptic

COSMETICS FOR HAIR
Shampoo: liquid, creamy or gel-like
• Cleansing of hair without leaving the hair greasy & dry.
• Not produce irritation in eye, Contain an effective
germicide, fungicide or antiseptic, Easy to remove
• Reduce the degree of itching, scaling and inflammation
Ingredients use in shampoos:
A.Surfactants:
Anionic surfactants superior foaming properties and
low cost E.g Alkyl benzene sulphonates
Cationic surfactants- They produce good foam, leave
hair lustrous and have good. E.g. Cetyl pyridinum salts
Amphoteric surfactants-E.g. n-alkyl amino acids
good cleansing and foaming properties

B) Conditioning agent: Mineral oil, lanolin
C) Viscosity modifiers: NaCl, Natural gums
– Thickening of shampoo
D) Opacifying agents: TiO2
E) Sequestering agent: EDTA
F) Preservatives: Methyl/propyl parabens
G) Perfumes:
H) Antimicrobials- Thymol
Classified according to function as:
– Protein shampoo
– Anti dandruff shampoo
– Conditioning shampoo

Protein shampoo
USES:
• Shikakai and ushira- soften the hair
• Musk roof- promotes hair growth
• Soapnut- hair from excessive oil secretion, dirt, dust
• Fenugreek- provide natural proteins
Contents Weight
Acacia concinna (shikakai) 47.60 mg
Vetiveria zizanioids (ushira) 6.95 mg
Nardostachys jatamansi (musk
root)
6.95 mg
Sapindus mukorossi (soap nut) 2.08 mg
Trigonella foenum-gracum
(fenugreek)
2.08 mg
Water up to 1 ml

Anti-dandruff shampoo
Significance of each extract:
• Rusmari- destroys dandruff
• Neem- protects from germs
• Tulsi- protects from germs
• Shikakai- cleanses and conditions hair
• Amla- strengtns hair, Henna- provides rich and healthy shine
Contents Weight
Rosmarinus officinalis (rusmari) 103 mg
Azadirachta indica (neem) 5.15 mg
Ocimum sanctum (tulsi) 5.15 mg
Acacia concinna (shikakai) 5.15 mg
Phylsanthus emblica (amla) 5.15 mg
Lawsonia inermis (henna) 5.15 mg
Water up to 5 ml

To enhance untangling of wet hair and improve
manageability of both wet and hair.
Formulation of conditioning shampoo
Conditioning shampoo
Contents Weight
Cicer arietinumCicer arietinum (Chick pea)(Chick pea) 60 mg
Sapindus mukorossiSapindus mukorossi (Ritha)(Ritha) 60 mg
Jasminum officinaleJasminum officinale (Jasmine)(Jasmine) 40 mg
Eclipta albaEclipta alba (Thistle)(Thistle) 15 mg

HAIR COLORANTS
Hair dye should possess following characteristics:
It should be non-injurious to the hair shaft
It should possess no systemic toxic effect or irritation when
applied to the hair
It should have affinity for hair keratin
Some herbs used to color the hair include:
•Eclipta alba: Whole plant extract is useful for hair nourishment and dyeingWhole plant extract is useful for hair nourishment and dyeing
•Juglans regia:Leaves and haul of fruits for hair dyeing
•Lawsonia inermis (henna),
•Acacia katechu,
•Emblica officinalis (amla)
•Tea leaves

TOOTH PREPARATIONS
To prevent and control of teeth disorders, which
include dentifrices and mouthwash
DENTIFRICES:
The basic requirements of a dentifrice are-
1. To remove food debris, plaque and stain.
2. It should leave the mouth with a fresh, clean sensation.
3. It should be harmless, pleasant and convenient to use.

BOTANICALBOTANICAL ACTIVITY
Azadirachta indica (Neem) Protects gums from bacteria
Eugenia caryophyllus(Laung) Clove oil is used as analgesic
in tooth pain
Glycyrrhiza glabra(mulethi) It cures mouth ulcers
Cinnamomum
zeylanicum(dalchini)
Cinnamon oil is used as
flavouring agent
Mentha piperita(pudina) flavoring agent and has mild
antiseptic properties
Various botanicals used in preparation of
dentifrices are

TOOTH PASTE
To remove adherent soiling matter from a hard surface with
minimal damage
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY % ROLE
Calcium pyrophosphate 38 abrasive
stannous pyrophosphate 2 abrasive
Stannous fluoride 0.4 fluoride
Glycerin 25 humectant
Sorbitol 12.5 humectant
Irish moss 1.5 Binders
Sodium saccharin 0.05 Sweetners
Sodium lauryl sulphate 2 Surfactners
Water 100 Solvent
Flavor Qs flavour

METHOD OF FORMULATION
•The hydration of the gelling agent
•Dispersion of the abrasive in gel
•To add the active ingredients late in the mixing cycle
•Add the surface active agent
•Flavor last of all.
For example –
1. Herbal toothpaste1. Herbal toothpaste
Ingredients :
Calcium carbonate,sorbitol, fennel (Foeniculum vulgare),clove
bud (Eugenia caryophyllus),Neem leaf(azadirachta indica),and
neem bark,peppermint (mentha piperita),essential oils,ascorbic
acid (vitamin C)

Mouth washes
To give a healthier and fresher mouth and to provide some
assurance of good breath odour.
Ingredients:
Deionized water,
certified organic aloe barbadensis gel,
super critical extracts of mentha piperata,
 azadirachta indica leaf and bark,
Eugenia caryophilous,
ascorbic acid, xylitol, potassium sorbate

Nail preparations
Nail Enamels:
Nitrocellulose
Solvent, like toluene
Pigments: minerals or organic lakes
Plasticizer like DEP, camphor
Resin for film strength and flexibility: Toluene Sulfonamide
Formaldehyde,
Nail cream-
Nails can become brittle due to dehydration. Nail creams contain an
emmolient like olive oil and lanolin

Shaving preparations
Shaving cream:
A good shaving cream should have following
characteristics:
It must give an abundant lather
It must remain soft in tube
It must tacky to adhere to both brush & face
For example:
Stearic acid, Mineral oil, Beeswax, Menthol, Soap flakes,
Water

After shave preparations
To relieve slight irritation after shaving.
To recover injury after shaving.
Humectants and emollientsHumectants and emollients-like glycerol and sorbitol etc
Cooling effect of skin is achieved by adding menthol
Astringency is achieved by adding witch hazel extract and zincwitch hazel extract and zinc
Eg.
Nivea after shave lotionNivea after shave lotion
Contains:
chamomilechamomile, vitamin E, and provitamin B5. Calms skin helps
to prevent irritations.

Foot preparation
Bacteria staphylococcus epidermidis giving rise to bad odors.
Composition Action
Shoera robusta (sal tree) Antimicrobial
Curcuma longa
(turmeric)
Antiseptic
Trigonella foenum
graceum (fenugreek)
Arevents boils, ulcers
Zingiber officinale
(ginger)
Aubifacient