What is inspected for Denim Garment's quality control? Which points the inspectors need to pay attention to? Ensure the quality of your product.

1. Denim Garment Quality Control
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2. For every business get increased sales and better name amongst
consumers and fellow companies, it is important to maintain your quality
standard level.
In the garment industry is not different, and quality control is practiced right
from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the final stage of finished
garment.
For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of
quality and standard s of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness,
surface designs and the final finished garment products.
However quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer
segments and the retail outlets. There are a number of factors on which
quality fitness of garment industry is based such as performance, reliability,
durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment.
Quality Standard for Garments
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3. • Overall look
• Right formation.
• Feel and fall.
• Physical properties.
• Color fastness.
• Finishing properties
• Presentation of the final produced garment.
Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost. The
national regulatory quality certification, or international quality programs like ISO
9000, series lay down the broad quality parameters based on which companies
maintain the export quality in the garment and apparel industry.
In overall, here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration
for garment manufacturing for export basis:
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What Quality Means for Garments?

4. Based on all fabric properties requirements, the main defects for garments may
be classified and clustered as listed bellow:
STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK
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Main Garments Defects

5. This can be considered the basic procedure for any kind of
garment, and so may cause several types of defects.
Bellow the key elements to be checked :
• Open seams
• Stitching Defects (skipped, uneven, staggered, Improperly)
• Needle damage
• Thread breaks
• Same color garment, but usage of different color threads
• Miss out of stitches in between,
• Creasing of the garment
• Erroneous thread tension
• Raw edges.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

6. Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting:
Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam
(ex: bar tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam)
resulting in stitch failure.
Minimizing Effects:
• Use a higher performance Perma Core or D-Core thread, that has greater
resistance to chemical degradation.
• Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut.
• Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch
seam on denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%/40%
relationship of Needle thread to looper thread in the Seam.
• Use needles with the correct needle point.
• Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle
Cuts are occurring frequently.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

7. Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting:
Special Cares:
• It is recommended to go to larger thread sizes when the Denim
Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical washes.
• To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the water
temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts
and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.
• Make sure the garments are being rinsed properly to neutralize the
chemicals in thefabric.
• Monitor the drying process, cycle times, and temperatures to make sure
they are correct so that the best possible garment quality can be
achieved.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

8. SKIPPED STITCHES:
Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle
misses the looper loop. Skips are usually found where one seam crosses
another seam and most of the time occurs right before or right after the
heavy thickness.
Minimizing Effects:
• Use core spun thread.
• Use minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch.
• Use the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize flagging.
• Training sewing operators NOT to stop on the thickness.
• Make sure the machine is feeding properly without stalling.
• Make sure the machine is not back feeding.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

9. Disappearing Stitches in Stretch Denim:
Is where the thread looks much smaller on seams sewn in the
warp direction than in the weft direction of the fabric.
Minimizing Effects:
• Use a heavier thread size on topstitching.
• Go to a longer stitch length (from 8 to 6 spi).
• Make sure the thread tensions are as loose as possible so the
thread sits on top of the fabric rather than burying in the fabric
on seams sewn in the warp.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

10. Wavy Seams on Stretch Denim:
Where the seam does not lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching
as it was sewn or during subsequent laundering and handling operations.
Minimizing Effects:
• Use minimum presser foot pressure
• Instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques and not
stretch the fabric as they are making the seam.
• Where, available, use differential feed to compensate for the stretch of
the fabric.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

11. RAGGED / INCONSISTENT EDGE
Where the edge of the seam is either extremely "ragged" or "rolls" inside
the stitch.
Minimizing Effects:
• Make sure the sewing machine knives are sharpened and changed
often;
• The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the "stitch
tongue" on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width or width
bite.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

12. Restitched Seams
Where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. If this occurs on Topstitching, the
seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Usually caused by
thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing or broken stitches during a
subsequent treatment of the finished product(I.e., stone washing)..
Minimizing Effects:
• Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher
performance thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions.
• Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments;
• Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for
the fabric and sewing operation;
• Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

13. UNRAVELING SEAMS:
Generally occurs on 401 chain stitch seams where either the stitch has
been broken or a skipped stitch has occurred. This will cause seam failure
unless the seam is Re stitched.
Minimizing Effects:
• Use a high performance Parma Core or D-Core thread that will
minimize broken stitches and skipped stitches;
• Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments;
• Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

14. The pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are
traced onto fabric before being cut out and assemble. Any defect
on that is very critical, because will compromise all the garment.
Main issues most probable to occur:
• Some parts of pattern are missing, , due for eg marker did not include
the correct number of parts.
• Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled,
resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts.
• Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all
patterns facing in same direction (either way) on a one-way fabric.
• Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

15. • Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line,
perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.
• Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside
edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial
marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space for economizing
the fabric. Marking back from miniature markers also can cause trouble
unless the miniature marker making is in the hands of experienced
operators. Alternatively the full size pattern may be having worn out
edges.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

16. Fabric spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is spreaded
in order to get required length and width as per marker dimension.
This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying.
Main Common Defects:
• Uneven Spreading: Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or
back edge of marker not catching all ply.
• Narrow Material: Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker
width.
• Missed Sectional Breaks: Sectional marker breaks too long or too
short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

17. • Improper Tension: Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not
to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.
• Mismatching Plaids: Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid
lines to run diagonally or bow.
• Misdirected Napping: Air pockets not removed. Napped material
reversed in spreading.
• Improper Matching of Face of Material: Not spread face down, face up
or face to face as required.
Some critical factors to be checked in order to prevent this defects
listed in a quality control inspection are: Ply alignment; Ply
tension/slackness; Bowing ; Splicing; Grain-line; Shade variation; Selvedge
alignment & tightness; Fabric width; Static electricity down, face up or face to
face as required.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

19. Marker markings are used for the purpose of cutting the patterns,
and due wrong adjustments or measures, it may cause several
types of issues.
Main Common Defects:
• Shaded Parts: All component pans not included in same section.
• Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or
pleating.
• Not Marked by Directional Lines: Bias will not lit together, causing
twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component
parts.
• Skimpy marking: Marker did not use outside perimeter of
pattern.Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.
• Notches and Punch Marks: Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

20. • Marker Too Wide: Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments
or requiring results.
• Marker Too Narrow: Results In wasted material.
• Mismatched Plaids Marker did not block component parts to match.
• Misdirected Napping: Patterns not marked in same direction and
napped fabrics.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

21. Minimizing Effects:
•It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in marker.
•In marker labeling or coding of pattern should be checked
•Pattern direction should be checked.
•The entire pattern are sated correctly.
•Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered during
marker making.
•During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be accurate.
•During marker making fabric length and width should be considered.
•Marker width
•Notches & drill marks
•Knife clearance
•Checks and stripes (mittering)
•Not enough knife clearance freedom.
•Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

22. Special Cares:
Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking
results in components being sewn together with puckering and
pleating.
When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of
the lay get cut with bits missing.
Failure to follow the marker lines results in distorted garment
parts.
Top and bottom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is
allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high aspread.
Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow ,angled,
omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric .
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

23. Cutting is an important process to produce the garment. Quality
full fabric cutting reduce the wastage of material and make the
business profitable, but requires special attention to don´t affect
the final product quality.
Main Defects:
• Marker or Perforator: Not stapled or stencilled on lay to catch both
edges causing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too loose, distorting
dimensions of garment. Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked,
sufficiently to show distinct lines, notches and punch marks.
• Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members: Attached to, or
marked on, wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.
• Drill Marks: Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong
side drill used.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

24. • Opening Slits: Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut
through entire bundle or omitted.
• Improper Cutting: Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts.
Letting knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.
• Notches: Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
• Oil Spots: Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.
• Improper Knife Sharpening: Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on
bundles.
• Knife or Scissor Cut: Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous
piece.
Key parameter to be checked in a quality inspection in order to prevent
a cutting defect:
Frayed Edge; Fuzzy Edges; Ply to Play fusion; Single Edge Fusion; Notches
and Drillers; Cutting Equipment Precision.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

25. The type of machines and tools used on the cutting process, may have a key
impact on the garment quality. So it is important to consider it, when choose
the best strategy for a quality control. Here is a list of cutting tools and
accessories often used on cutting department:
• Scissor
• Straight Knife.
• Band Knife
• Round Knife
• Computerized Knife Cutter.
• Computerized Laser Cutter.
• Straight Knife (used in 100% cases for bulk cutting directly from lay
cutting)
• Drill machine (specially used for position marking on the fabric that would
be cut for making garment)
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

26. A color problem in the garment can impact directly on the
customer satisfaction, considering is the most “visible defect” and
sometimes during the manufacturing process is not easily
detected.
Difference of the color from a final produced garment to the
sample shown, accessories of wrong color combination and
mismatching of dye amongst the pieces are some of the possible
defects.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

27. Poor Colour fastness after Laundry
It is where the thread does not wash down consistently in the
garment or changes to a different color altogether.
Minimizing Effects:
• Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.
• Use threads from the same thread supplier and do not mix threads in
agarment.
• Always do preproduction testing on denim garments using new colors to
assure that they will meet your requirements.
• Make sure sewing operators select thread by type and color number
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

28. Thread Discoloration After Laundry:
It is the thread picks up the indigo dyes from the fabric giving the
thread a dirty appearance. A common discoloration would be the
pick-up of a greenish or turquoise tint.
Minimizing Effects:
• Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.
• Correct PH level (too low) and Water Temperature (too low) during
laundry.
• Use the proper chemicals & laundry cycles.
• Use Denimcol PCC in wash or similar additive
• Do not overload washers with too many garments at one time.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

29. Considering the final stages of the manufacturing process, where
all the final details is finished, there still a lot of different problems
that may occur.
Some defects in the Overall Look of a Garment:
• Sizing defects: Wrong gradation of sizes or difference in measurement
of a garment part from other.
• Broken or Loose parts: buttons, snaps, zipper,
• Exposed notches
• Misaligned buttons and holes
• Dropped stitches
• Pulled / loose yarn
• Zipper too short
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

30. Twisted Legs
Is where the side seam twists around to the front of the pant and
distorts the appearance of the jeans.
Minimizing Effects:
• Usually caused by poor operator handling. Instruct the sewing operator
to match the front and back properly so they come out the same length.
Sometimes notches are used to insure proper alignment. They should
NOT trim off the front or back with scissors to make them come out the
same length.
• Make sure the cut parts are of equal length coming to the assembly
operation.
• Check fabric quality and cutting for proper skewv Make sure the sewing
machine is adjusted properly for uniform feeding of the top and bottom
plies.
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STITCHING
PATTERN
SPREADING
MARKING
CUTTING
COLOUR
OVERALL LOOK

31. As showed there is several kinds of defects in all manufacturing process
chain, so to ensure the esthetics, fit and functionality of your garment a
full end-to-end quality control is necessary.
The benefits is not limited in the customer satisfaction point of view, but
also reducing material waste and production costs. So all effort to
ensure the product quality will be valuable and important for steer the
brand recognition, a so critical aspect in terms of the business strategy
sustainability.
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Conclusion

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How do we perform inspection for garments
Most of inspection for apparel focus on the workmanship of the item, on
the materials used to manufacture the product, on the sizing etc...
Some of the Solutions Available
Supplier Audit for garments
•Supplier Evaluation
•ISO 9001 Audit
•Social Audit
Product Inspection for Apparel
•Product Inspection
•Incoming Material Inspection
•Initial Product Inspection
•During Production Inspection
•Pre-Shipment Inspection
•Sorting and Monitoring
•Defective Product Sorting
•Production Monitoring
Product Testing for clothes
•Purity test for Apparel

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Contact us
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Tel: +852 58 08 13 16 (9AM-5PM Hong Kong time)
E-mail: info@asiaqualitycotnrol.com
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