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Japanese Civilization(Ancient to Modern)

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Japanese Civilization(Ancient to Modern)

  1. 1. History of Clothing Mid-term Assignment Submitted By- Anchal Kumari BD/19/4691 FD-5
  2. 2. JAPANESE FASHION The Japanese fashion is a vast field that is a reflection of art, tradition, and freedom.The visual culture of early Japan is showcased by a combination of multiple traditional Japanese styles.This splash of visual beauty represents the traditional and visible artistic values that shook hands while creating a form of fashion that was recognizable to foreign cultures. From the exquisite fabrics to the intricate patterns, Japanese fashion and its beauty have influenced numerous designers all over the world. Modern Japanese fashion’s spunk, especially in Tokyo, the capital city, is something that inspires celebrities, pop stars, and social media greatly. Japanese fashion from ancient to modern, and its influences on western style. The Japanese Fashion:Where Art and Culture Shake Hands Japanese fashion is known for its cutting-edge trends and is a highly diversified sartorial genre. It essentially includes two types of clothing: • the Ancient clothing known asWafuku • the Western clothing known asYōfuku
  3. 3. Japanese styles mix pop culture with avant-garde looks.They are led by ever-evolving and exhilarating subcultures like: • Kimonos (ancient Japanese attire) • Lolita (theVictorian-inspired cute clothing) • Gyaru (glamorous and youthful clothing) • Shibuya (styles from the famous Shibuya mall of Tokyo) • Harajuku (the super-fashionable Harajuku street style), and finally, • Cosplay (role-playing costumes). Japanese fashion is hugely inspired by nature- From flowers and leaves to birds and animals, it incorporates everything in its clothing. Kimono Lolita Gyaru Shibuya Harajuku Cosplay
  4. 4. ANCIENT JAPAN The Nara, Heian, and Muromachi Period (710 – 1600): Bow Down to the Royalty! The early Japanese fashion was quite plain and practical, as it was well suited to a nation of gatherers and hunters, that later evolved to craftsmen and farmers. The Nara period (710 – 794) included full coveralls of robes that covered the body from collarbone to feet.This was the period of social segregation, where the higher class women were to cover their body more than the lower class. The Heian period (794-1192) saw the introduction of the most iconic garment, the kimono.The kimono, which means “something to wear” in Japanese, is the most popular form of traditional Japanese fashion. In addition, there are other types, too, which include the hakama and the yukata.These garments were usually worn by women of higher social status, weighed about 20kg, and consisted of over 12 layers of clothing.Kosode, on the other hand, were basic robes, and Hakama were skirt-like pants that were worn under the garments. Picture-(L to R): Heian silk kimono; Linen robe; Imperial life enactment of royalties accompanied by court servants; Rice powder and rose-bud red lip makeup, Kanzashi hair clip; Origami crane earrings
  5. 5. Luxury in Japanese Fashion Coming to luxury, people wrapped a waistband called Obi around the final layer of the traditional robe to keep all the layers of clothing intact. It is often bright, extremely thick, and bow-shaped, and it serves as the final touch to the costume.And brace yourselves, some of them cost even more than the total cost of all the layers of the kimono combined! This period also included accessories like Kanzashi hair clips, Origami crane earrings, and showy headdresses. The materials used to design these attires included either hemp or linen. Narrow eyes, round apple cheeks, thin nose, and pouty mouth defined the Heian beauties. On matters of makeup, they used heavy rice powder to paint the face and neck white, and red paint over natural lip-lines to make its shape like rose-bud. Picture-English/Japanese movie Memoirs of a Geisha and impersonation of typical Japanese appearance with long hair
  6. 6. Movies today also showcase the ancient Japanese culture lost in time by wearing these outfits, like in the English/Japanese movie Memoirs of a Geisha. All of these styles continued on in the Muromachi period (1333-1573) and became very popular by this time.This only showcases their knack for comfort and extraordinary charm. The Edo Period (1603 – 1868): Samurais to the Rescue! The strong and the bold! This period marked the 250 years of peace and stability in the history of Japan, post the upsurge of military governance of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Samurais required more presentable attires as they entered the bureaucracy of feudal lords. As a result, this period saw a rise in demand for more artistic and expensive kimonos with the prime motive of showing off status and power.Along with wealth, art, and culture too, started reaching the merchant class. Picture-Famous Edo style teeth blackening; Royalty ornamental hairpins; Neutral colored samurai kimono, tucked sword and Sandogasa (bamboo hat); Classic samurai warrior attire
  7. 7. The manufacturing industry developed and embroidery expanded to multiple motifs and colors inspired by famous theater artists and their costumes. In short, the theater rocked! The era’s new looks included loose kimonos, their long hanging sleeves (usually worn by unmarried women), and obi belts triple the normal size. Makeup involved the usage of three basic colors of red, white and, yellow. Red for lip rouge and nail polish, white for face powder, and black for eyebrow pencils and teeth blackening. The later period, however, aimed at an iridescent effect that consisted of heavy makeup.
  8. 8. The Modernization of Japanese Fashion The Meiji Period (1868 – 1912): Classic with aTwist of Western Modern! During this period, the Japanese empire was restored and as a result, the country arose as a modern and industrialized power.The West mostly influenced the Meiji period. On formal occasions, the government officials and their wives used to wear western outfits.TheYofuku clothing uptake, inspired by theWest, spiraled down through the classes. On the other hand, Japanese women found these new fashions impractical for daily life and continued on with the kimono, newly pairing them with a variety of accessories such as scarves, hats, gloves, handbags, and umbrellas for decades to come. Picture-Meiji dress of mixed ancient and western style; Natural makeup with skin color matching foundation; School costume in the 1900s
  9. 9. Women began using a full palette of hues in their makeup. Western influence made them realize that there was a possibility of finding makeup that would complement their real skin tones. They started embracing the natural look! TheTaisho Period (1912 – 1926):Time to Evolve! Fashion further evolved for all classes.TheTaisho period was the combination of the West and East fashion trends. Modern living kept thriving as the Japanese empire continued its domain. Fresh styles emerged with the rise of cinema, radio, and magazines. These styles included affordable and new patterns of meisen silk kimonos and decorated collars. Women’s popular fashion statements all across the globe had become quite similar in the 1920s. Picture-Meiji Era
  10. 10. Picture-Taisho period meisen silk kimono; Eastern and western mix of cloche hat and kimono jacket; 1920s Japan slim dress style These styles involved glamorous gowns, dresses, and robes with slim lines and a vertical draping. However, a majority of women still favored traditional Japanese dresses with some experimentation along the way.This included pairing up kimonos and robes with modern hairstyles and dressing up children in skirts, pants, shirts, and dresses. Women mostly preferred makeup that was quick to apply and convenient to use as they were stepping up both in society and the workplace. Other than the traditional white, face powder began to be sold in a broader range of tints. The traditional safflower-based rouge was replaced by tube lipstick made of different dyes and pigments.With the cosmetic industry becoming increasingly westernized from 1910, cold creams, vanishing creams, and emulsions also appeared in the market.
  11. 11. Fashion Pre and Post-World War II The Showa Period (1926 – 1989): Shining Brightly even inTimes of Crisis! To put it straight, the Showa era was a period of art! It was under the reign of Emperor Hirohito and spanned both pre and post-war periods. In due favor of modest garments, wartime restrictions had banished extravagant and showy outfits. However, alongside the economic boom after the 1950s, fashion trends developed rapidly.Western clothing became mainstream. On special occasions, people wore kimonos inspired by the Art Deco and Art Nouveau movements.The post-war pacifist constitution of 1947 allowed younger generations to embrace entertainment and pop culture along with the fads and fashions of the day. Although Showa styles still had a hint of Japanese elements. Mostly, the American and European influences like freedom- loving long-haired hippies, the Swinging-Sixties mods, and dolly girls inspired them. Picture-Modest dress styles pre-WWII; Dark eye makeup inspired by western pop culture; Western outfits styles post-WWII
  12. 12. The US introduced pancake makeup to Japan in 1954.The cosmetic trend shifted in the 1960s and put an emphasis on makeup for the eyes and mouth. Fads like the heavily made-up eyebrows and surfer look were a trend in the starting of 1975 and swept women in their teens and twenties in particular. Japanese Street Fashion The Heisei Period (1989 – 2019):The Now Wow! Fashion, art, and music have all connected with the rise of the new media. Lolita, visual kei, gyaru, host club hairstyles, cosplay, decora, otaku, Harajuku culture, and kawaii street fashion are just a handful of the aesthetic contributions of the Heisei period. Kawaii:TheTeenTrend It is an adorable and cute trend in Japan. It can refer to humans, non-humans, and items that are shy, charming, and childlike.The Japanese went on to incorporate this culture and characters like Hello Kitty and Pikachu in fashion and created cute outfits for teens and young adults to wear.This includes lolita dress, bunny headbands, bob wigs, kitten tees, and more. Picture-Heisei Perio Picture-Kawaii
  13. 13. Talking about local Japanese fashion, teenagers and the general public wore mini skirts and over-sized knee-high socks during the 1990s.The general public popularized these instead of well-known fashion designers. This is known as the Kogal trend and is found in both Harajuku and Shibuya districts. It is influenced by the “schoolgirl” look.This style is also characterized by the skin with a fake tan, dark makeup, pale lipstick, and light hair. To name some, the most famous modern Japanese street styles include over-sized shirts, tees, and pants, plaid outfits, bright tones, and layers on layers in clothing, Mori Kei (loose knitted wear), denim on denim, stylish sneakers, classic hip belt bags, and more. Picture-Japanese classic hip belt bag; Typical schoolgirl look with a short skirt; Street fashion by Yukina Kinoshita, a Japanese influencer; The Lolita look characterized by Victorian fashion; Lolita headband; Flared pants and bucket bag; Mori Kei loose knitted poncho
  14. 14. Freedom of the Genderless Kei Today, the Japanese street style mostly reflects the concept of genderless Kei, which means rejecting the idea that one needs to dress according to their gender.This has enabled all men and women of Japan dressing more or less similar. Yukina Kinoshita, a Japanese model, and Instagram influencer, with her huge 5.1 million followings , reflects the true street style of Japan with a tee worn inside a check shirt, shorts, high rise boots, and a hat. Now present trends in makeup include an individual approach to medicated cosmetics, nail art, and other decorations of fingernails.Times have changed, and the white-skinned Edo beauty is no longer the ideal. Now, we are in a modern era in which consumers expect that cosmetic products should serve a variety of skincare needs and functions. Picture-Yukina Kinoshita
  15. 15. Genderless Kei – More JustThan A FashionTrend ‘Kei’, which means style in Japanese, focuses on self-expression through fashion.The critical point about this new trend is that genderless Kei isn’t related to gender or orientation. Genderless Kei fans may be het, gay, cis, non-binary… they simply find freedom in the Genderless aesthetic.Genderless Kei doesn’t conform to any traditions which people are following, and welcomes androgynous fashion as an aesthetic for all. What AreThe Elements Of Genderless Kei Style? Genderless Kei followers usually combine stereotypically ‘female’ and ‘male’ clothing and beauty techniques to create an androgynous look. Genderless Kei includes (but is not limited to) the following key elements: • Clear skin • Makeup and nail polish • Coloured contacts • Flashy clothing • Cute accessories • Dyed hair in an androgynous or ‘feminine’ cut Genderless Kei rejects any gender rules about fashion, and promotes beauty standards that aren’t defined by gender. Picture-Genderless Kei, J-pop band XOX member
  16. 16. The Influence of Japanese Fashion on International Designers The Runway Effect The influence of Japanese fashion has swayed and twirled the west coast of the United States. Since the 80s, superior Japanese fashion brands such as Comme des Garçons have been playing quite a big role in the global industry, especially through their frequent cross- over guest designs with other major brands. Popular Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garçons, designed for high-end fashion brands like H&M and LouisVuitton in 2008. London FashionWeek in 2010 featured the precious works of TomokoYamanaka.Tokyo is Japan’s fashion capital and is head-to-head with major fashion centers of the West like Paris and Milan. Picture-Gwen Stefani with Japanese girls showcasing the Harajuku style; A Comme des Garçons collection; The Invisible Clothing collection by Rei Kawakubo; Japanese anime Cosplay outfit; A jersey jacket from Kanye West’s BAPE collection
  17. 17. The Celebrity Parade The street fashion of Japan has influenced various brands by world-class celebrities. KayneWest’s BAPE and Jermaine Dupri’s A Bathing Ape, for instance, are gaining attention from the youth day by day. Furthermore, we can see the influence of Japanese fashion on pop stars like Gwen Stefani who incorporated the cute Harajuku style in her rock song. She introduced her clothing line named L.A.M.B. in 2003, and later expanded the collection with the Harajuku Lovers line in 2005. Both were completely inspired by the Japanese fashion and culture. Picture-i. Jermaine Dulri ii. KayneWest’s Bape iii. Kayne tiger hoodie Picture-Kayne Sneakers
  18. 18. As Anime and Manga have been trending, there has been an introduction of a social phenomenon of Japanese cosplay fashion. In this, teenagers and young adults find themselves trying Manga outfits inspired by Japanese pop culture. In fact, the influence of these cosplay drives fans from all over the world such as France, Germany, USA, Brazil, China, and Australia.All for one reason, to attend the annual competition ofThe World Cosplay Summit held in Nagoya, Japan, and rejoice to their heart’s delight! The vast culture and aesthetics of Japanese fashion have never failed to intrigue us – both in the east and west. Japanese inspirations continue to be seen in celeb styles, fashion editorials and runway collections.And we fashionistas love to mix, match, and experiment with these styles. Picture-Cosplay
  19. 19. Fashion In Japanese Movies 1. Kamikaze Girls/下妻物語 As is largely true in any society, fashion reflects (sub)culture and vice versa, and those who choose to dress inVictorian- era dolls’ clothing won’t often find commonality with those in loose-fitting casual wear, leather jackets, bleached hair, and dark eyeliner. Nevertheless, solitary Lolita-clad Momoko and Yankee biker Ichigo manage to forge an unlikely bond across wildly divergent fashion styles and a highly regimented subculture. It goes The fashion trends we witness in this movie, Lolita and “Yankee,” are two completely opposite styles.The former is feminine, sweet, and follows strict fashion rules — nothing imperfect matches, while the latter is all about being imperfect — over-sized, masculine, and loosely worn. The Lolita fashion, inspired by Rococo style, became popular in Japan in the 1990s and 2000s.
  20. 20. 2. NANA/ナナ Like Kamikaze Girls, we once again see two young women finding support and friendship across fashion and subculture. Nana (Aoi Miyazaki), an average girl following her boyfriend to the big city, and leather-jacket-wearing. 3. Helter Skelter/ヘルタースケルター Based on a best-selling manga, Helter Skelter (2012) is the tragic tale of a seemingly perfect supermodel Liliko. Based at the core of Japan’s high-end fashion scene, the movie displays a number of popular Japanese brands, as well as the latest western-inspired clothing trends and makeup. 4. Drowning Love/溺れるナイフ In Drowning Love (2016) we find a classic tale of teenage romance, one also based on a popular manga of the same (Japanese) name.Teenage romance in Japan often means his and her high-school uniforms, worn properly here by teen model Natsume (Nana Komatsu), not so properly by the free-spirited Koichiro (Masaki Suda). 5.WOOD JOB!/ウッジョブ A light-hearted comedy, Wood Job is the story of a city boy who finds meaning and purpose in the seemingly menial work of rural forestry. The yama girl clothes is nothing beyond the typical outdoor fashion seen around the globe. Nana Movie Helter Skelter Drowning Love Wood Job
  21. 21. 6.Wonderful World End/ワンダフルワールドエンド With a considerably more fashion-driven narrative, WonderfulWorld End (2015) revolves around Shiori, a 17-year-old gothic Lolita who runs a known interactive video blog.When Ayumi, an adoring 13-year-old fan, comes into Shiori’s life, things go from peculiar to pretty good, but eventually land on creepy. We get to learn much about fashion from the movie though, specifically the Gothic Lolita style, a spinoff from the sweet and classic Lolita we saw in Kamikaze Girls. Unlike the cute Lolitas, the Gothic trend relies heavily on dark clothes, pale skin makeup, and color contact lenses, giving a bit of a vampy vibe.Though 7. Paradise Kiss/パラダイス・キス Yet another manga adaptation, and although a work of fiction, the film delves into Japan’s real-world fashion industry. Paradise Kiss, set in Tokyo in 2010, follows protagonistYukari’s (Keiko Kitagawa) happenstance introduction into a group of dedicated young fashion designers. Normal high school life is more than a bit of a drag forYukari, but she finds great inspiration in the design group’s creativity and enthusiasm, and eventually she is delighted to be asked to model their new line:“Paradise Kiss.” Uniquely, this film was made with the cooperation with popular brand L’est Rose and other real-world fashion brands. We also get to see another common school uniform style, largely representing the modern days high school look. Paradise Kiss is a yet another entertaining fashion show that guides us to the behind the scenes of Japan’s fashion industry, including its highs and lows. Wonderful world End Paradise Kiss
  22. 22. TEXTILES OF JAPAN Generally the textiles in ancient japanese culture were used to make the kimono for different occasions .Textile arts in Japan were deeply divided by social class. The wealthy and the poor relied on different materials, techniques, and fashions which could only be used by that class. The most famous material used to make these textiles is silk . silk was only accessible to the rich.The common people made textiles from plant fibers, predominantly cotton and hemp, spun and woven into wearable garments. Different types of textile in japanese culture KagaYuzenTextiles Japan’s kaga textiles has a unique method of dyeing . In this craft there are five different colour tones are used, indigo, khaki, green, dark reddish purple, and deep red.This textile features classical deep tones centering on reddish colors and floral print designs, representing the natural beauty of Kanazawa It has delicate and unique patterns that are enhanced by the distinctive gradation fro edge to the center of each motif.The kaga was originally produced using the silk and hemp. this textile requires enormous amount of water for washing purpose so the textile was eventually made near the area which was well blessed with the rivers and water bodies .
  23. 23. KyoTextiles Kyo textiles are dye textiles . In the this textile a large range of vivid colours and a technique of pictorial designs of animals, nature and daily items are used .This technique of making the textile needs a intensive amount of labor and it totally contains handwork. This Kyo textile is a beautiful production by the elegant and sumptuous culture of Kyoto and it is popular not only in Japan but all over the world.The whole production process of Kyo textiles requires an extended period of time as it involves the collaboration of many specialized artisans with high craftsmanship. Use of silk in the japanese textiles Silk is the one of the most important ant popular material used for making the japanese textile for ages . Japan produces some of the worlds finest quality of silks . these high quality silks earlier were used for making the garments for the people of upper class people int the community . Picture- Kyo textile Picture- Silk textile
  24. 24. Here are some verity of silks from japanes culture . Nishijin Brocade Nishijin brocade is woven silk produced in the northwestern part of Kyoto.There are twelve kinds of Nishijin brocade designated by the regulations and production process of the nishijin brocade varies depending on the makers of the fabric. Initial production of Nishijin brocade began all the way back during the Kofun period (250-538AD) There are several verities of nishijin brocades such as Tsumugi -fabric woven with thin silk threads Honshibo-ori – fabric made with textured crepe weaving and Futsu– double sided fabric with different colors and patterns on each side. This silk results in making nishijin ori which is a high quality silk fabric which is woven when the threads of silk are dyed. Over the years craftsmen and weavers enthusiastically producing various new products from nishijin that match the modern lifestyle. Moreover , Nishijin and Nishijin ori are registered as trademarks in order to preserve the traditio Picture-Nishiijin Brocade
  25. 25. YukiTsumugi Silk Yuki tsumugi silk is produced in the Kinu River region .Today, the fabric made from this silk is considered as an luxury . kimonos and other garments made fro this silk are characterized by their lightness, softness, and excellent heat retaining-properties.The threads are extracted from yarn hands pun from silk floss.Threads of this silk last long without getting damaged and maintain the high quality of the textile. The fabric made from this yarn is very comfortable to wear and has very appealing texture. Yuki tsumugi silk textile is one of the most outstanding Japanese silk fabrics that has been passed down for generations. Thus, we can say that Japan has its own world for its textile , starting from the finest quality of silk to various techniques of weaving a beautiful and unique textiles. Picture- Yukii Tsumugi Silk
  26. 26. Contemporary Japanese Fashion Blending vintage-looking stripes with summer-appropriate outfits of functional character, selected for outdoor activities. Inspired by the samurai styles, the waistline is a definite highlight. The editorial concludes with Japanese styles below crop tops, belted high-waisted jeans, skirts, jumpsuits, and dresses, made from rescued materials, deadstock, and eco-friendly textiles. Sustainable Japanese Fashion Fashion is an industry that creates mountains of waste and up to 10 per cent of the world’s carbon output comes from the same industry. Right now, there are over 21 billion tons of textile waste discarded in the landfills, each year. Then, 20 per cent of the world’s water is used to create apparel. These figures motivate Japanese, as a nation, to find better alternatives, especially now when the industry is at a crossroads. As such, emerging Japanese designers are increasingly taking centre stage with next-generation hand-made couture from upcycled apparel and recycled textiles.
  27. 27. The Future Of Japanese Fashion Japan has been and remains at the forefront of technological innovations. Japanese startups are devising unique technologies, rethink business models, and search for eco-friendly alternatives at every step, from design to production, delivery, and reuse. The latest advancement in Japanese fashion is the use of Artificial Intelligence and 3D manufacturing, as it is the case of Synflux. Synflux is just one of the thousands startup blending technology into Japanese culture, seeking to rethink the entire fashion ecosystem. SustainabilityThrough Innovation Almost 57 per cent of millennial and Gen Z consumers are willing to pay more for custom made products that have a minimal impact on the environment. As such, Japanese designers with a focus on customisation and sustainability are the rage right now. Use sustainable materials – innovative, eco-friendly, cruelty-free materials that nurture and protect the environment.Once again, Japan’s new age of design and technology experts are ahead, by blending culture and beauty with innovation and utility. Picture-sustainable collection
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