Islamic fashion

1. I S L A M
rise & fall of islamic caliphate

2. “I have left behind me two things, if you cling to them
you will never go astray. They are the book of Allah
and my Sunnah.”
-Prophet Muhammad.

3. What is Caliphate?
• Islamic Caliphate is a government system based on Islamic sharia law.
• First caliphate was formed after the death of prophet Muhammad.
• The successors of Prophet Muhammad, who was the head of the Islamic state, were
“caliphs”, a term translated as “successor”.
• Starting from the 11th century, various states were established on the lands the Mus-
lim ruled, from the Atlantic Ocean to deep inside China and authority of the caliph
became symbolic in these countries.

4. »
» The Rashidun Caliphate (632-661)
[Patriarchal Caliphate]
»
» The Umayyad Caliphate (661-750)
»
» The Abbasid Caliphate (750-1258,
1261-1517)
»
» The Ottoman Caliphate (1517-1924)

5. Rashidun Caliphate (632-661)
• They were the first caliphs of Islamic worldwere the Rashidun (rightle guided). According to the
Sunni Muslims, they were chosen by Muhammad’s followers and all four were legitimate caliphs.
• The thirty years during when they ruled were filled with political intrigue, corruption, assassina-
tion and civil war but also impressive military conquests and the formation of the major divi-
sions that define Islam today.

6. Hazrat Abu Bakr Hazrat Umar Hazrat Uthman Hazrat Ali
Abu Bakr was the father-
in-law of Muhammad and
was an early convert to
Isla. He was known as “The
Truthful.”
During his short reign as
caliph, Abu Bakr put down
rebellions by various Arab
tribes died and estab-
lished the Caliphate.
632-634 CE 634-644 CE 644-656 CE 656-661 CE
During his time, the Islamic
Empire expanded great-
ly. He took control of the
Middle East including
conquering the Sassanids
of Iraq
He then took control of
many surrounding are-
as including Egypt, Syria,
and North Africa.
Uthman was a close com-
panion of the Prophet
Muhammad.
Uthman is most known for
having an official version
of the Quran established
from one originally put to-
gether by Abu Bakr. . This
version was then copied
and used.
Ali was Muhammad’s
cousin and son-in-law. He
was married to Muham-
mad’s youngest daughter
Fatimah.
He is considered by many
to be the first male convert
to Islam. Ali was known as
a wise leader who wrote
many speeches and prov-
erbs.

7. • The state religion was Islam. . The non-Muslim people were nominally allowed to practice whichever
religion they wanted to follow.
• The Sharia Law was exercised by the state, and nominally extended only to Muslims, but in reality
had jurisdiction over non-Muslims who had commit offenses against the Muslim community.
• During the Rashidun Caliphate there was an economical boom in the lives of the ordinary people
due to the revolutionary economic policies developed by Caliph Umar and his successor Caliph
Uthman.
• At first it was Umar who introduced these reforms on strong bases, his successor Uthman who himself
was an intelligent businessman, had further reformed it.
• The army is reported to have maintained a high level of discipline, strategic prowess and organi-
zation, granting them successive victories in their various campaigns.
• The three most successful generals of the army were Khalid ibn al-Walid, who conquered Persian
Mesopotamia and the Roman Levant, Abu Ubaidah ibn al-Jarrah, who also conquered parts of the
Roman Levant, and Amr ibn al-As, who conquered Roman Egypt.
Religion
Economy
Army

8. • As a new world was forming after the demise of Muhammad, the Caliphs believed in the sayings of
the Hadith and what was termed as the “proper dress”.
• Maliki law, for example, permitted one finger’s width of pure silk for (male) garment trimming, while
pure silk outer garments were acceptable in Hanafi circles.
• All theologians, whether Sunnī or Shīcī, preferred the devout Muslim male to dress austerely in cot-
ton, linen, or wool, and Muslim mystics were known as sufīs “wearers of wool.”
Clothing

9. umayyad Caliphate (661-750)
• The Umayyad Caliphate, which emerged after the Rashidun Caliphate collapsed, was character-
ized by hereditary elections and territory expansion. It became one of the largest unitary states in
history and one of the few states to ever extend direct rule over three continents.
• The Umayyads incorporated the Caucasus, Transoxiana, Sindh, the Maghreb, and the Iberian Penin-
sula ( Al-Andalus ) into the Muslim world. Umayyad Caliphate covered 5.79 million square miles and
included 62 million people. (29% of the world’s population)

10. Arab conquest of
Transoxiana
The Muslim conquest of
Transoxiana or Arab con-
quest of Transoxiana were
the 7th and 8th century
conquests, by Umayyad
and Abbasid Arabs, of
Transoxiana, the land
between the Oxus (Amu
Darya) and Jaxartes (Syr
Darya) rivers, a part of
Central Asia.
In the first half of the 8th
century CE, a series of
battles took place be-
tween the Umayyad Ca-
liphate and the Indian
kingdoms to the east of
the Indus river.
Sindh became eastern-
most frontier of Caliphate.
The Arabs reached
the Maghreb in early
Umayyad times.
The Umayyad regime was
founded by Muawiya ibn
Abi Sufyan in 661. Syria
was the Umayyads’ main
power base, and Damas-
cus was their capital.
In 711, less than a century
after the birth of Islam, an
army of Arabs and Ber-
bers serving the Umayyad
caliphs of Damascus (in
Syria) landed in the Ibe-
rian Peninsula, ushering in
a new phase of art and
culture in the region.
**The reign of
battles
The conquest of
Maghreb
Iberian Peninsula
(Al-Andalus)

11. Battle of Karbala & Fall of Umayyad**
There were numerous rebellions against the Umayyads, as well as splits within the Umayyad ranks (no-
tably, the rivalry between Yaman and Qays) and these were the reasons behind the fall of Umayyads:
Battle of Karbala
• At the command of Yazid son of Muawiya, an army led by Umar ibn Saad, a commander by the
name of Shimr Ibn Thil-Jawshan killed Ali’s son Hussein and his family at the Battle of Karbala in 680,
solidifying the Shia-Sunni split.
Fall of Umayyad
• Supporters of the Banu Hashim and the supporters of the lineage of Alí united to bring down.
Umayyads 750.
• The Shi at ‘All, “the Party of Ali”, were the disappointed Abbasid dynasty took power, when as the
Abbasids were descended from Muhammad’s uncle, Abbas ibn ‘Abd al Muttalib and not from Ali

12. Clothing
Woven Tapestry Fragment/Textile
• The Materials used are Wool and Tapestry Weave.
• This Textile was influenced by thr Sasanian Art in Iran
• Repeated Pattern of Staggered rows of rosettes
• Created 744-749 AD
Upper Class Men
• Upper class men such as caliphs, princes, viziers, and courtiers. The costumes – of intricate brocade
and lavish silks. The jubba apparently designated a generic tunic or robe.
• Robe, the zihara, was likewise the garment of nobles and princes. One garment style is long and
flowing with wide sleeves and a loose fit. Bands of decoration called tiraz appear at the upper
arms.
• The other garment worn by figures in the ivories is tighter in the body and sleeves, and has a full
skirt which ends at the knees. This tunic may have been more functional, since it is worn by men
engaged in activities such as hawking, hunting, and fighting.
• The opening is covered by overlapping rectangles of fabric. They could be held closed by a
button atone corner, or left open with the corners of the rectangles folded back, which created a
V-shape at the opening.

14. Upper class women
• Histories rarely mention women, much less their clothing, except when their means of dress was cause
for scandal. One way to do this was to adopt the accessories appropriate to men’s costume, such
as wearing a Qalansuwa And a sword.
• We do know that women had access to cosmetics in this time period. The best known are henna for
the hands, and kohl for the eyes. Lip coloring may also have been used. Possible perfumes include
ambergris, musk, camphor, and Indian aloe
Lower Classes
• The clothing of the lower classes is even harder to document than women’s costume, except for one
legal treatise from the late 9Th Or early 10Th Century such as the Zihara. Under the tunic, they
wore pants or knickers and a chemise or shirt. For added warmth in the winter, they might add vests
or coats of fur, as well as stockings.
Textiles
While cotton, linen, and wool were all available in Spain in this period, only silks – whether manufac-
tured natively or imported from abroad.
A Number of these fabrics were highly decorated. Common designs include stripes, checks, and depic-
tions of fantastic creatures as well as every day birds and beasts.

16. Berbers
• Their costume remains difficult to describe because of the relative (though mutual) disdain from the
mainstream Moors. The Burnus-A circle cloak, perhaps hooded – and the turban were two garments
which together clearly marked a Berber tribesman. In fact, princes who wore turbans – or forced it
upon their courtiers – were seen as courting Berber favor.
Christians and Jews
• Christians and Jews in caliphal Spain most likely dressed in the same fashion as the Moors of the
same social class. With one important distinction: the Ghayat al-hakm, or “Laws of Differentiation”
were sumptuary laws designed to distinguish the Dhimmi From the Muslims among whom they lived. In
al-Andalus in the 10Th And early 11Th Century, Jews and perhaps Christians as well, were forced to
wear a particular belt called the Zunnar. Whether the belt was coloured differently for each religion
is unknown.
Shoes
• Shoes are the single hardest aspect of the costume to document, since shoes did not merit the at-
tention of historians in this period. In all likelihood, footwear options would have included a variety
of sandals, slippers, ankle boots, and taller riding boots.
• The finest boots and shoes would have been made of the leather which made Cordoba. Even be-
fore the arrival of the Muslims.

17. Zunnar belt

18. abbasid Caliphate (750-1258, 1261-1517)
• Abbasids were famous for science & technology.
• Their time represented a scientific, cultural and religious flowering.
• Their major city and capital Baghdad began to flourish as a center of knowlledge, culture
and trade.

19. • This period of cultural fruition
ended in 1258 with the sack
of Baghdad by the Mongols
under Hulagu Khan.
• There was a loss of power al-
ready by c. 920 and by 945,
Buyids conquered Baghdad
and all of Iraq.
• It was then ruled by local dy-
nasties for the next century.
• The Ottoman Great Sultan
Selim I defeated the Mamluk
Sultanate and made Egypt
part of the Ottoman Empire in
1517.
• Al-Mutawakkil III was cap-
tured together with his family
and transported to Constan-
tinople as a prisoner where he
had a ceremonial role.
First fall of Abbasid* Final fall of Abbasid

20. Under the Mamluk Sultanate of Cairo*
»
» After losing the Bagdad, they grew up their empire
in Cairo.
»
» There were many rulers, from 1261-1517 they lead
Muslim Caliphate.

21. • The Abbasids were influenced by traditional Arabic dress and Persian court styles. The Abbasids
loved the public display of wealth. During their time, the rules regulating fabric and design were
loosened so the court could wear clothing they felt was appropriate to their ranks.
• Two ideas regulated how people dressed during that time: The adab, or the ideal of sophistica-
tion in dress and behavior and ghiyar, the laws that enforced a separation or differentiation of
classes and religions.
• Often garments were the same for men and women, upper and lower classes; only the type of
fabric, the patterns of the fabric, and the number of layers were different.
Sirwal: general term for pants, which could mean underwear, briefs, knee-length pants, or a loose
pair of trousers. Most upper classes wore some sort of cover on their crotch and then a pair of
trousers over that.
Qamis: Undershirt, body shirt, or tunic. This was generally a collarless shirt with a round neck. It
could be long or short sleeved and could go to the mid-thigh or the ankle. It could also be one
solid piece of fabric or it could be split down the middle.
Clothing

22. layering
1st Layer: After the qamis, there was an outer layer. This was generally a tunic, a robe, or a coat
depending on wealth, weather, and occasion. Here is a limited sample of options.
Thawb: long or short sleeved gown.
Ejubba: narrow sleeved tunic (often wool).
Hulla: long, flowing coat.
Qabd: Luxurious robe, split down the front, closed with buttons
Farruj: Long robe split down the back.
Barajirdi: linen or silk lined robe.
Durrota or durra’a: long, full robe, with wide sleeves made out of fine linen. The robe was split
down the front.
Khaftan: Fine coat, with long narrow sleeves, split down the front and closed with buttons.
Outer layer: When going outside, men and women covered their outfits with a mantle, cloak, or
veil.
These were made from wool, silk, cotton, or linen.
Head covering: Men wore hats or turbans. Women wore veils.

23. Sirwal Qamis Tunic

24. A domestic scene with a woman wearing a tunic and trousers
and a veil.
Women at the mosque
Mahmud of Ghazni dons a robe of honour sent by the Abbasid
caliph al-Qadir
Robes of royalities

25. Costume inspriation for Crusader Kings III game made
by Paradox Development Studeio

26. ottoman Caliphate (1517-1924)
• The caliphate was claimed by the sultans beginning with Murad I (1362-1389), while rec-
ognising no authority on the part of the Abbasid caliphs of the Mamluk-ruled Cairo.
• Ottomans were the greatest caliphs because they brought all Muslim region under one
Caliphate.
• There were many parallel regionals caliphates there to the Ottomans.

27. Abolition of the Caliphate (1924)
• After the Armistice of Mudros of October 1918 with the military occupation of Constantinople and
treaty of Versailles (1919), the position of Ottomans was uncertain.
• The movement of protection happened after the Treaty of Sevres (Aug 1920) and this imposed the
partitioning of the empire and gave power to Greece.
• The movement then collasped by late 1922.
• On 3rd March 1924, the first President of Turkish Republic, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk abolished the in-
stitution of Caliphate and transferred the powers to Grand National Assembly of Turkey.
• The title was claimed by Hussein bin Ali and then further controlled by ibn Saud in 1925.
»
» Some main reasons behind abolition of caliphate were because of the push of western ideology like
legalising LGBT among muslims which is Haram in Islamic Sariah.
»
» Secondly because of the employeement of “Young Turks” (young army officers) who tried to change
the original ideological beliefs into modern ideology leading to the war.

28. Clothing
During the 16th century, the textile industry also wit-
nessed a boom, with weaving techniques and the
quality of fabrics at their pinnacle.
• Upper-class or royal people in the Ottoman Em-
pire wore fur-lined, embroidered kaftans. The middle
class wore cübbe and hırka, a specific style of jacket.
The lower class also wore a different style of jacket,
called cepken or yelek.
• One of most famous designs from this era was the
Chintamani motif, which was composed of a wavy
line with three circles. Other motifs such as flowers,
branches with leaves, the sun, moon, stars, and the
endless knot were also common.
• Originally developed in Turkey, ottoman is a heavy
fabric with flat crosswise ribs. ... It’s a tightly-woven,
lustrous fabric used for coats, evening wear, uphol-
stery and trimmings.

29. The women belonging to the
sultan’s family, wore a kaşbastı (a
diadem embellished with a stone at
the center) on the head to indicate
their rank.
• A fez with a thin white scarf which
covered the whole head and
shoulders was also used.
• Women in the court wore an inner
robe called an iç entari with an
elaborate belt called the cevberi.
• As an outer layer, women also wore
kaftans, which were lined with fur
in the winter months, while all
garments were made from the era’s
prevalent textiles, such as brocade,
silk and velvet.
Women’s Clothing
A stylish young woman of the mid-17th cen-
tury. She wears şalvar (trousers), a long, sheer
gömlek (chemise), and an ankle-length pur-
ple entari (outer robe) with the ends tucked
up. The fur lining of her yelek (jacket or vest)
marks her as wealthy and highranking

32. The sultans wore luxurious kaftans composed
of the most expensive fabrics, with gold- or sil-
ver-plated threads.
• The stunning sultan kaftans (worn with şalvar,
loose trousers) were made of fabrics such as
brocade, velvet, satin and silk lampas, taffeta,
mohair, and cashmere.
• The sultan’s headgear was also a very im-
portant element of Ottoman fashion, beginning
with the horasani (a woolen conical hat) and
evolving to the mücevveze (a cylindrical hat
wrapped in fine
muslin).
Men’s Clothing
Sultan Mahmud II

35. Contemporary fashion

36. • Aldebe is currently working on her first Islamic clothing line for both men and women for the Arabian Peninsu-
la, particularly Riyadh and Dubai.
• Combining Swedish style with long, traditional garments, her norm-breaking collection is all-white for both
sexes, challenging the Gulf norm that women should wear black and men white.

37. Aab, one of the world’s leading Islam-
ic clothing retailers, opened its first
boutique in East London this spring.

38. • The ISLAMIC FASHION FESTIVAL takes an innova-
tive spin on the conventional fashion exhibition
to boldly present Islamic culture and attire on an
international platform.
• In the three years since its inception, it has re-
ceived resounding success in the cosmopolitan
cities of Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, and Dubai with
the creative participation of over 180 designers
representing varies cultures and nations – Muslim
and non-Muslim.
• The ISLAMICFASHIONFESTIVAL is a tangible show-
case that reinforces the powerful message that
Islam is a progressive religion and a viable way
of life.
Islamic Fashion Festival

39. A design by Jordan fashion house Shukr

42. AUTUMN WINTER 2012 BY TARUN TAHILIANI
(MODERN TWIST OTTOMAN COLLECTION)

43. https://www.scribd.com/document/189450953/Umayyad-Caliphate-Dress
https://prezi.com/a9gqorcb9zk_/the-umayyad-caliphate/?frame=7e7a9592d36be660fcccd7f46519511487f83d8e
https://in.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=islamic%20aesthetic&rs=typed&term_meta[]=islamic%7Ctyped&term_meta[]=aesthet-
ic%7Ctyped
https://www.slideshare.net/AKNahin6/rise-and-fall-of-the-islamic-caliphate
https://amonamon2.wordpress.com/2010/05/26/islam-and-fashion/
https://www.abbasidstudies.org/abbasids/clothing/
bibliography

44. Aditi Aditi Pandey Anchal Kumari Ankita Kumari
thank you