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WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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Whistles
SS17 Trousers Range
By Alexandra Birkenshaw
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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Brand Introduction
6-7 Background
8-9 Diversion
Previous Collections
12-13 SS14
14-15 SS15
16-17 Advertising approach
18-19 Muses
Market Position
22-23 Competition
24-27 Primary Research on Whistles
28-29 Primary Research on Reiss
30-31 Primary Research on Cos
32-33 Like for Like products
34-39 Comparing Products
The consumer
42-43 The New focus consumer
44-45 The Common consumer
46-47 The Key piece Directional consumer
Contents page
Creative Outlook
50-51 The Trend
52-53 The Collaboration
54-55 Our big diversion
56-57 Trend Direction
58-63 Catwalk Influences
64-67 Social Media
66-67 Street Style
68-69 Key Shapes
70-71 The colour palette
72-73 Aethetic Details
74-75 Print
The Range
76-77 The Final range
78-89 Critical paths
90-93 Outfit Builds
In Store Layout
96-99 Details
100-101 Mock Instore layout
102-103 Phasing into store.
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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Brand Introduction
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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Whistles
Whistles is a contemporary fashion brand founded in 1976 by Lucille Lew-
in which has now expanded to 121 stores world wide. The location of the
stores are planned according to their consumer, being predominantly situat-
ed in big cities and wealthy towns such as Amersham High street.
“Its first store pioneered many new labels and designers in London for the
first time, launching John Galliano, Dries Van Noten and Jean Paul Gaultier
to name a few. (Whistles Online 2001)
The brand is led by CEO Jane Shepherdson, previously
brand director at Topshop and known as one of the most
influential women in British high street fashion. This
makes it interesting that she has moved out of fast fash-
ion into a more sustainable retail environment. The brand
describe themselves as “encapsulating an intelligent sense
of design with timeless and luxurious pieces. Collections
are modern and laid back with an attention to detail and
quality”. It has been claimed that since Jane’s ownership
the brand has changed for the better, it is certain that it
has changed, but has this change made them more profit-
able and sucessful?
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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Whistles has been seen to evolve over time, particularly
since the financial crisis in 2008, but since the new CEO
joined Whistles has a very clear and undeniable brand identi-
ty and direction. The brand takes inspiration from contempo-
rary influences such as exhibitions, architecture and trend
activity. Whistles looks to high-end catwalks for direction
from names such as Celine, Givenchy and Chloe. Despite fol-
lowing these paths all products meet a certain criterion of
having a clean, high quality look. In 2014 Whistles launched
it men’s collection, providing contemporary design with mod-
ern utility. Whistles menswear is an edited collection that is
both considered and versatile, combining understated looks
with refined styling; produced to be relevant for work and
leisure in the knowledge that what separates those worlds
is becoming less defined. Time will tell if the expansion into
menswear was a positive strategic move.
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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Big Diversion for Whistles
Whistles have a huge opportunity on their hands, since the rebranding of
the label and a clear shift in the customer to an intelligent, quietly gor-
geous and effortlessly fashionable consumer, Whistles heritage has lost
out. Why not have the best of both worlds? Whistles previous consumer
still exists! She is a middle England woman, desperate for something that
flatters her figure that she is self conscious of, she doesn’t have much
spare time on her hands and wants fast easy shopping. This is why Whis-
tles can benefit from reaching out to this consumer group. Cos are a good
example of this, they entice the young and the old, maybe this is a way
Whistles can create a larger market.
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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In 2012 at a time when Marks & Spencer announced a 6.8% drop in general sales, Whistles began to quietly flourish. The
brand announced that it had brought back the majority of its shares from the Icelandic government a move which underlined
its growing strength.
Whistles had been independent since 2008 since parting ways from the retail group Mosaic at which point they were de-
scribed as going “from strength to strength”. Sales were up 13% in 2011 and there was “consistent double digit like for like
sales growth”. In the same year, according to a company statement. Whistles was also the bestselling premium high street
brand on Asos. It had been part-owned by the Icelandic government since the banking crises of 2008, when shares owned by
the collapsed bank Glitnir were transferred to its ownership. Now Reykjavik owns less than 10% of the retailer after buy-back
funds were raised from existing Whistles shareholders. European and American expansion is a key part of the company’s fu-
ture strategy, with 20 more UK-wide stores planned for the next two years.
This success is largely due to Jane Shepherdson, chief executive at Whistles. The CEO ultimately makes the final decisions re-
garding the direction of the brand so it is important to analysise their personal carear paths to understand their vision. Jane
has been brand director at Topshop for 8 years,Topshop is a fast fashion brand with a lower age bracket than Whistles mak-
ing the move quite a surprising one.
She moved to Whistles in 2008 bringing a large part of her team with her. As Shepherdson herself says, “there were frills,
bows, extra buttons... quite fussy. I needed to change the brand. It was quite a risky thing to do but it wasn’t an aesthetic that
we understood.”
“Since then, the clothes have gradually gained a recognisable slickness. Classic shift dresses in vibrant prints, tailored sports-
wear pieces and suiting that looks cool rather than conventional is now Whistles’ fare.” Stacey Duguid, Elle’s executive fashion
editor, calls Shepherdson “the Phoebe Philo of the high street”, comparing the understated mood of Whistles clothing to that
of the Celine designer. This, says Duguid, appeals to a savvy customer. “The Whistles woman is urban,” she says. “She wants
to look a little different without being glaringly obvious or looking like she’s trying too hard.”
Whistles progression was slow and thus unoticeable at the time, Caren Downie, womenswear director at Asos, credits “the
quality of the product and strong fashion handwriting” as integral to its success. “You didn’t notice any massive changes,”
adds Graeme Moran, junior fashion editor at Drapers. “It was very gradual and subtle.”
Since Whistles has become more directional than commercial the consumer the brand owes their initial success to has been
somewhat left out. The middle England woman needs to be brought back in, the frills and bows and so on are what made Whis-
tles in the first place. This consumer feels uncomfortable to come in to store more recently. “I feel I can’t buy anything that
compliments my figure in Whistles anymore”. “I have always loved the quality of Whistles clothes but I just can’t find anything
for me anymore”.
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Whistles Past S/S Trousers
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Whistles Catwalk SS14
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There is a huge variation of trousers within this collection in terms of length, shape, colour, fabric
and style. There are three main colour palettes to take notice of, firstly pale pastles such as misty
blue, soft pink and sequin cream. These can work well for a number of consumers because they are
of a reasonably basic fit and can be dressed up or down. It is the second colour palette that has
a tighter knit appeal. This is the pop palette which includes the pink and green to the right of the
colour palette displayed, these are more fashion and trial pieces. The pink trousers within this group
(3rd image, Top row) are a developed version of cigerette trousers with a nipping high waist and
relaxed leg style. The final colour palette is more neautral including blacks and camel. Overall the
shapes are all very tailored, mostly high waisted and very high quality pieces.
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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WhistlesCatwalk SS15
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These garments have a clean cut crisp feel, all of the outfits share a commonality of being baggy and
airy with feminine touches such as a peaking midriff or a deep V neck. Key colours include muted coral
intwined with black, pink camel and off creams. This combination of colours is perfect for the Whistles
consumer reason one being because they are safe, the consumer doesnt want to stand out as trying
to hard with the on season electric blue for example, the colours are relaxed and comfortable.
Fabric textures inclue laser cutting, rousching, layered frills and clean crisp feels. These communi-
cate the trend without overpowering the look. In terms of trousers there is one straight leg pair, one
shorts and three extended cullottes, not all styles will suit everyone.
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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Whistles Advertising approach
Clean
Simplistic
Cool by association
Quality
Effortless
Luxuriant
Pulchritudinous
Delicate
Slight
Tasteful
Pure
Polished
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Kate Middleton
Kate Middleton and
Coincidence
Alexa Chung
Rosie Fortescue
Kim Sears
Keira Knightley
Caroline Issa
Pixie Geldof
Celebrity Muses
Whistles have been extremely
successful in terms of celebrity
muses, they do not pay for
this to happen which makes it
much more exclusive.
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Olivia Palermo
Lena Dunham
Edie Campbell
Olivia Palermo
Hanneli
Annabelle
Wallis
Whistles are cool by association
Cara Delevingne
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Whistles Market Position
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Competition
The two main competitors selected for Whistles are
Cos and Reiss.
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FACEBOOK INSTAGRAM TWITTER PINTEREST YOUTUBE
Whistles 46,366 135 k 36.3 K 7 K 152
Cos 262,655 392 K 1815 30.1 k 1881
Reiss 211,008 92 k 68K 8.5k 1538
Social platform following is a huge part of analysing competition, if a consumer see’s a brand has a large
number of followings they instantly think ‘Wow this must be a good brand’ A company advert can creat a good
impression but knowing that real people like a brand has a huge positive effect. It is also important to establish
what the Whistles consumer follows in terms of social media so they can communicate to her effectively. Whis-
tles currently lags behind the competition on each of the social media platforms, as outlined below. Cos has by
far the largest social network, Reiss has the highest following on twitter but this is potentially because Cos has
only ever made one tweet.
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After initially researching Whistles online the researcher gathered an impression how the store would look tangibly, what
types of products would be available and other details including customer service, pricing and advertising. It was vital to look
at more than one store to get an impression of how accurate Whistles claim is of being an Omni channel brand. Online the
brand portray themselves to be reasonably luxury, which would indi-cate a clean store layout with up-to-date and innovative
touches. Given the prices of the garments especially one would expect high customer service amongst other details.
The first store visited was the Birmingham store in the Bullring, the store is situated next to Selfridges in the high end sec-
tion of the shopping centre, facing rivals Cos and Reiss and a stones throw away from the likes of Versace. The store itself
has a very clean and minimal feel, only three of each product is on display delicately organised with finger spacing in between
each product and the store has a very luxury feel.
At this point it was clear what the brand was about, however the same message was not communicated within the next place
of research: Whistles concession in John Lewis, High Wycombe.
The Whistles section was very cluttered, far more than three products were on display and this made the rail unappealing
to search through. Folded clothes and accessories on display tables had been messed around which is bound to happen in
any store but as a consumer considering spending lots of money on a product this is not what you would ex-pect to see.
Previous best sellers: the pleated Carrie skirt from last year, and the Wisteria pyjamas and Wren pink suit this summer.
(2015).
Primary Research
High Wycombe, John Lewis, Whistles concession
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The way the clothes were coordinated and laid out was
totally different to that of the Birmingham store, any
fashion pieces were snuck away amoungst buldging
rails and the pieces which were made more promi-
nent were very plain and ‘safe’ pieces. This may be
because the John Lewis shopper is very specific and
would be better suited to these parts of the range but
that doesnt mean that Whistles should sacrifice their
values and qualities just because they are in a differ-
ent environment, it makes the high quality, expensive
garments look cheap and un cared for.
After interviewing the staff in the lady’s section it became clear that they had dropped their staff from twelve to four and
that this was massively impacting on sales and the look of the brand. Within John Lewis the sales assistants said the
customer is of an older age bracket, wealthy and has time to shop in the day. They went on to say that trousers don’t sell
what so ever, this is surprising because the selection of trousers on display were particularly basic ‘can’t go wrong with’
trousers such as a variety of smart black trousers and structured leggings with a centred cord, it was explained that the
customer who comes into John Lewis is more likely to purchase John Lewis’ own range of trousers. What does sell is slo-
gan T-shirts, on the 28th of January they totally sold out of these and given that this new collection came out in January
that is very fast. They explained they do take a lot of money just in a different way to the average Whistles store. The re-
searcher went on to visit Whistles in Amersham, it was on a smart High street and had the same feel as the Birmingham
store, they said they take in a lot of money but they display less fashion and trial pieces.
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Westfield, London Whistles
Primary Research
-Previous financial difficulties
-They are a small independent com-
pany
-Lacks stores worldwide
-Accessability due to a smaller
amount of stores, thus they are par-
ticularily well known
-They have recently introduced mens-
wear but they dont offer other prod-
uct categories such as kidswear/
homeware
Strengths Weaknesses
-Product and design quality
-Clean and stimulating store environ-
ment
-Visionary leadership
-Endorse other brands
-Cool by association
-New mens line
-Innovation
-Royal association
-known for pioneering John Galliano
and Jean Paul Gaultier
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-Huge amount of competition with very
similar concepts
-Rapid changing fashion trends which
are more suited for fast fasjion
-Rising product costs
-Cheaper alternatives
-US customer service knowledge
-International expansion
-Targeting other consumers espe-
cially the middle England woman
-Associations with other celebri-
ties/designers
Opportunities Threats
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Primary Research
Reiss, Birmingham, The Bullring
Growing knitwear collection.
Total control over brand equity which
is instore environment also visual mer-
chandising and product quality.
Concessions in House of Fraser
growth with reduced risk and cost.
David Reiss entrepreneurial drive and
well known designer.
Successful expansion beyond UK and
gained working experience with differ-
ent markets.
Organic growth since the is no strate-
gy driving knitwear forward
Confused brand positioning bridging
position between mass market and
designer
No portfolio management future fund-
ing for growth or new knitwear lunch-
es not defined.
Lack of market research or marketing
information resulting in misunder-
standing of the external environment.
Strengths Weaknesses
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Greater than before diffusion into ex-
isting stores.
Increased number of retail outlets
Enhanced use of concessions to test
new markets
New fabric technology
Increased competition forcing to share
the disposable income
Squeezed bridging position by design-
ers form above and from below by
middle market retailers
Opportunties Threats
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Primary Research
Cos, Birmingham, The Bullring
-They offer a nine-five wardrobe
-They entice the young and the old
-Stimulating and engaging store environment with a
luxury feel
-Beautiful product packaging (provide a good quality
card bag and a fabric sack as opposed to Whistles
tissue paper wrapping and card bag)
-Their website is clean and easy to navigate around
-Their website connects with the consumer on a
deeper level with articles/projects adding another
dimension and meaning behind design
-They collaborate with influential players
-Pop up events
Lookbook/magazine and newletter offered in store
Strong international presence
-They offer more departments
-Exceptional social media following
-They somewhat alienate the younger consumer
of whom looks for throw-away pieces at a low-
er price point, this is also enhanced by the fact
they do not offer student discount
-They don’t have a huge amount of stores in the
UK
Strengths Weaknesses
-Part of the same group as
H&M meaning they have a
big loyal consumer market
-Being a chain of other
brands they have good re-
lationships with suppliers,
factories and so on.
-Designed with a strong
vision of the modern day
consumer in mind meaning
they are well liked by the
modern market of whom
want the next best thing.
-They provide reasonable
quality garments with their
expertise being on unique
and different pieces
-They are slightly cheaper
than Whistles
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-Develop the in store experience,
Whistles offer a very personal shop-
ping service and approach to help
every customer that comes in, which
was something unrecieved in Cos
-More celebritity endorsement/col-
laborations
-More advertising to make them
more well known
-Competitors store growth worldwide
-Competitors offering a more personal shop-
ping experience
-Competitors investing in their online plat-
forms
-Consumers may opt for cheaper alternatives
Opportunities Threats
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Like For Like
Pricing: £110
Colour: Black
Sizing: 4-14
Style notes: Switch up your go-to mini skirt in lieu of the black Paloma
culottes - they’re cut from tactile jacquard fabric to a floaty design
that’s chic and easy to wear. Style them with everything from a chunky
knit, sheer black tights and heels to a cropped blazer and leather
boots.
Composition : 35% Viscose 65% Polyester
Wash care: Dry clean only
Pricing: £225
Colour: Black
Sizing: only 38 and 42 in stock
Style notes: Slightly flared, these shorts are made from smooth
leather with clean raw-cut edges. Designed to sit on the hips, they
have slanted front pockets, single welt back pocket and a classic
zip fly fastening. They are completed with a loose silky lining.
Composition: 100% Lamb leather
Wash Care: Dry clean
Pricing: £95.00
Colour: Black
Sizing- 4-16 (4-6 Sold out)
Style notes: Professional yet practical, these city shorts are an ideal office
staple for when the warm weather hits. The lightweight classic black fab-
rication can be worn with any colour. The high waist fit is super flattering.
Composition: 100% Polyester
Wash care: Dry Clean
All three shorts are very similar and tie in with recent trends. The most expensive is the shorts from Cos at £225, then £110 and £95 and Reiss and Whistles respective-
ly. The shorts from Cos are at a justified price given they are made from 100% lamb leather a high quality composition. The shorts from Whistles are made from 100%
polyester which is a much cheaper fabric and the Reiss shorts are made from a mix of Viscose and polyester, again a cheaper composition.
Shorts
Whistles, Cos and Reiss have a number of similarities in terms of branding, market and pricing etc, but it is key to notice differences, What do the stores have that are similar?
This is where opportunities can be seen for Whistles amongst its competitors.
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MOXIEKNITTEDJOGGERS
Price:£110
Colour:Lightgrey
Sizing:XS,S,M,L
Stylenotes:Loungewear takesaluxuriousturnthis
seasonandtheMoxiejoggersareknittedfroma
softandlightweightwoolandcashmereblendthat
youwon’twanttotakeoff.Theperfectpartner to
downtime,wear themwith acottonT-shirtor an
oversizedcardiganfor astylish way tostay cosy.
Composition:87% Wool11% Cashmere2% Nylon
Washcare:HandWash
HELENACREPETROUSERS
Price:£120.00
Colour:black
Sizing:4-16(4,6&16outofstock)
StyleNotes:Casualandbeautifully cut,
thesejoggersareawardrobestaple.
Mergingtherelaxedappealofajogger
with aluxuriouscrepefabricandsmart
details.Pair with aslouchy jumper for the
idealweekendlook.
Composition:100% Polyester
Wash Care:Machinewash
Leather Leggings Drawstring trousers
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Wide leg trousers
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MOORESUEDECULOTTES
Price:£375.00
Colour:Navy
Sizing:6-14(alllow stock)
StyleNotes:Playwithtexturewiththesesupple
suedeculottes.Thisrelaxedfitfeaturesafly,hook
andbar fasteningwithfrontseamingdetail.Pair with
awhiteknitandcontemporaryplatformfor astylish
andmodernlook.
Composition:100%Leather
Washcare:DryClean
LEATHERCULOTTE
Price:£250.00
Colour:black
Sizing:4-16(alllow stock)
StyleNotes:Layer texturalknitsthiswinter with
theseleatherculottes.Finishingjustbelow knee
length,withaflatteringelasticatedwaistandsubtle
sidepockets.Pair withaslimribbedknitfor a
essentialwinter look.
Composition:100%Leather
Washcare:DryClean
BELLAZIPDENIMCULOTTE
Price:£140.00
Colour:denim
Sizing:4-16
Stylenotes:Awide,croppedtrouserisessentialforthe
seasonahead.Updateyourexitingwardrobewiththese
chicculottes.Detailsincludeanexposedzippullerand
midweightdenimfabrication.Pairthemwithamidheel
anklebootforextrastylepoints.
Composition:100%Cotton
Washcare:DryClean
STRIPEDCULOTTETROUSERS
Price: £45
Colour: Darkblue
Sizing: XSSML
Stylenotes:These wide-leg culotte trousersare
madefromalighweightcotton with an all-over
stripepattern.Arelaxed fit, they havean elastic
drawstringwaist, in-seampocketsand neat
topstitched hems.
Composition:100% BCICotton
Washcare: Machinewashable
WRAP-FRONTTROUSERS
Price: £99
Colour: Black
Sizing: 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Style notes: These cropped, wide-leg trousers have a wrap-over
front that ties at the waistline, giving the effect of a skirt.
Designed to sit on the hips, they have a dropped crotch, zip fly
and a single slanted pocket on one side.
Composition: 65%Polyester / 31%Viscose / 4%Elastane
Wash care: Machine wash in 30°C
ROUNDED WIDE-LEGTROUSERS
Price: £69
Sizing: 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Style notes: Asubtly rounded shape, these smooth
cotton-blend trousersare a wide-leg style with a
cropped hem. Designed to sitjustbelow the waist,
they havea dropped crotch, slanted frontpockets
and a classic zip fly fastening.
Composition: 97% Cotton / 3% Elastane
Wash care: Machine washable
Culottes
Whistles
Cos
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WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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Price: £125
Colour: Blue
Sizing: 4-14
Style notes: Spring is the ideal time to inject
some colour into your tailoring repertoire and
the slim-leg Salt trousers come in a soft blue
hue that feels fresh and relevant. Wear them
with a fluid silk blouse in cream and add the
coordinating blazer for a feminine take on smart
dressing.
Composition : 100% Wool
Lining composition : Body: 54% Polyester 46%
Viscose Sleeve: 65% Viscose 35% Polyester
Washcare : Dry Clean Only
Price: £110
Colour: forest
Sizing: 4-14
Style notes: Utility elements feature throughout
the Reiss SS16 collection and the forest-green
Diego trousers are a subtle nod to the look.
Cut to a high-rise, tapered silhouette with a
single back pocket, they’re a relaxed take on
tailoring and work with both flats and heels at the
weekend.
Composition : 97% Viscose 3% Elastane
Lining composition : 100% Polyester
Washcare : Dry Clean Only
Pricing: £120
Colour: Slate
Sizing: 4-14
Style notes: Loosely tailored to a straight,
ankle-length design for a casual take on
tailoring, the slate-hued Barratt trousers
are the perfect work to weekend pair.
Team them with a fine cashmere knit and
flats for a chic combination.
Composition : 49% Wool 49% Polyester
2% Elastane
Lining composition : 100% Polyester
Wash care: Dry clean only
Price: £79
Colour: Black
Sizing: 34, 36, 38, 40 ,42 and 44
Style notes:These tailored trousers are made
from fine, lightweight wool with press folds
along the front and back. Designed to sit just
below the waist and a tapered fit, they have
in-seam pockets, zip fly fastening and a single
welt pocket on the back.
Composition: 100% Wool
Wash care: Dry clean
Price: £69
Colour: Pale blue
Sizing: 34-44
Style notes:These trousers are made from a soft
denim with a slight stretch. Designed to sit on
the waist and with a dropped crotch, it has subtle
in-seam pockets, a back welt pocket and a hidden
side zip.
Composition: 98% Cotton / 2% Elastane
Wash care: Machine washable
Price: £79
Colour: Navy
Sizing: 34-44
Style notes: A relaxed fit, these slightly
tapered trousers are made from wool-
mix with a comfortable stretch finish.
Designed to sit between the hip and waist,
they have a dropped crotch, slanted front
pockets and a classic zip fly.
Composition: 48% Wool / 48% Viscose
/ 4% Elastane
Wash care: Dry clean
Price: £120.00
Colour: Black
Size: 4-16 (Size 14 and 16 low on stock)
Style notes: Update your work wardrobe with these
smart black trousers. Details include a bootcut
hem, neat front creases and a front fly and hook
and bar fastening. Pair with a loose silk shirt for a
winning Monday to Friday look.
Composition: 53% Polyester, 43% Wool, 4%
Elastane
Wash care: Dry Clean
Price: £150.00
Colour: Navy
Size: 4-16 (4, 14 and 16 low on stock)
Style notes:
Update your work wardrobe with these smart
navy wool trousers. Details include a bootcut
hem, neat front creases and a front fly and hook
and bar fastening. Pair with a ribbed knit for a
foolproof look.
Composition: 100% Wool
Wash care: Dry Clean
Smart Trousers
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Average Price: £82.30
Average price: £135
Average Price: £118.30
No other styles
Other avaliable style
Other avaliable styles
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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The Consumer
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WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
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The New Focus Consumer
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This is our new focus consumer, since the new ownership and thus rebranding of
Whistles we have somewhat neglected the consumer we owe our success too. This
is an opportunity for us to broaden our market. Our previous faithful consumer such
as Katie doesn’t feel as comfortable as she once did to shop in Whistles. As mar-
ket research other new focus consumers were interviewed and responces included:
“I don’t mind Whistles prices because I trust their quality but the shapes of the
clothes has become far to daring for me” “I always used to be able to find some-
thing to flatter my figure in Whistles but now I really can’t”
Name:Katie
Age: 36
Family Make Up: Katie has two daughters aged 6 and 3, she is married to her child-
hood sweetheart Tom.
How do you spend your free time? My life revolves around my family so when I’m not
caring for them, walking the dog, working or sorting the house out I’m on the phone
to my friends or out for a catch up with them. I watch a lot of day time TV too.
Where do you shop? Jigsaw, concessions in department stores, Next, Tesco F&F (If
something catches my eye while i’m food shopping)
Do you shop online or in store? I like to go in to store so I don’t have to worry about
sending things back. Me and my girlfriends go on shopping weekends every so often.
What radio do you listen to? Heart, but normaly kids CD’s!
Where do you aspire to shop? Somewhere with high quality clothing that is quietly
fashionable and that will be able to compliment my figure.
What is your job title? I am a midwife
What do you watch on TV? I get stuck into the next best series on BBC and lots of
daytime TV.
Who is your bestfriend? My mum and sister
What food do you like to eat? I try to be as healthy as possible but because I eat on
the go lots this gets tricky.
What qualities would you want your S/S 17 Trousers to have? quality fabric, excel-
lent fit, product detail.
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The Common Consumer
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Name: Nikki Robertson
Age: 31
Family make up: She lives with her husband and dog in LA.
How do you spend your free time? I spend time with my family, listen to records
or go to music events. I also love to holiday and try different food.
Where do you shop? I used to wear a lot of layers, and growing up in England, it
was all about tights. Since I’ve been in LA, I’ve become more confident with my
body and I wear things that maybe I wouldn’t have when I first moved here. I’m
really into longer length styles at the moment. I always used to wear skirts and
dresses, I was a real girly girl but with masculine jewellery or boots, but now I
love wearing trousers. And I’m a big fan of black. It’s a uniform.
Do you shop online or in store? Both
What radio do you listen to? I don’t get time! But for research I have to listen to
most stations for my job
Where do you aspire to shop? I have two Chanel bags which I love, so I aspire to
shop there and similar places.
What is your job title? I run my own record label
What do you love about living in LA? The weather, which is such a cliché but so
true. I’ve lived here over 10 years so I’ve got really close friends and my work is
here. Even though I grew up in London and there are hundreds of things that I
miss, my life is here now. I love living on the West Coast.
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The Key Piece Directional Consumer
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Age: 23
Family make up: I live with my bestfriend
How do you spend your free time? I travel lots for my job so when I’m not working but abroad I’ll dip
into the tourist features there, other than that I take lots of short holiday breaks with my friends,
visit exhibitions and stay very up to date with fashion.
Where do you shop? Everywhere! If I decide I want something in particular I will shop around for it, I
shop at Asos and Zara often but for more staple pieces I look to Whistles and other brands.
Do you shop online or in store? Both
What radio do you listen to? Radio 1/Kiss 100
Who are your role models? My colleagues and parents
Where do you aspire to shop? Highend brands such as Celine
What is your job title? Journalist
What do you watch on TV? The news, Kardashians and other rubbish
Who is your bestfriend? My house mate who i met at university
What food do you like? I try to eat very healthy and I love organic fresh foods
What would you look for in a summer trouser? Lightweight and high quality, on trend.
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Creative Outlook
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-Seven year transition of the use of technology
-Time will be considered the most desirable
luxury
-Objects will come to life and mimic personality
traits
-A seamless bond will form to integrate tech-
nology and the body, exploring bonds between
organic and manmade.
-A new form of luxury will be seen
-Meaning overrides function
-Natural
-A focus on how you live not what you own
Trend- Pause
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Pause is a 7-year period where time will be considered the ul-
timate luxury. The period is a cyclical event, every 15-20 years
there’s a technological breakthrough that has mass adoption.
The previous example of this was in 2007 around the release of
the IPhone, the man technolog-ical focus for Pause is Artificial
intelligence which will see mass adoption by 2022. There are a
number of key influences and features of this period, firstly the
concept of time. The way time is viewed will totally adapt, time is
represented by the golden stepping stone which is Natural, Rare
and Sublime. The will lead to the greater interest in vacation,
since global connectivity has extended the average working week
has increased meaning the consumer values free time more.
30% Americans said they would rather have more vacation
time over enhanced health care plans. This was one of the key
drivers for the recent theory regarding that changing com-pany
benefits is hard and expensive whereas re-evaluating vacation
policies is fairly straight forward and much more beneficial for
both the staff and the company. Some companies are taking this
theory on to see results by 2017 such as Richard Branson, Net-
flix and Google. Other key features of the trend include wearable
technology, mindful breaks and Augmented reality. The aesthetic
of the trend is what the designer will mostly take into considera-
tion here.
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Tate Modern are presenting a major exhibition by Georgia O’Keeffe from the 6th July. The exhibition will tour throughout 2017 thus being a major influence
upon creativity within that year. The values this artist transpires fit perfectly with Whistles beliefs, making this exhibition a key inspiration for the 2017 spring/
summer collection. Why? She is claims as an important pioneer by feminist artists of the 1970s, she is a single-minded character who identified her ambi-
tion to become an artist when she was still a child and achieved this within her seven-decade career. O’Keeffe was an exceptional landscape artist, thus this
exhibition will relate her previous practice through American tradition of landscape paining as well as forward to anticipate the gendered landscapes and
statements of feminist artists of later generations.
A prominent aspect of the exhibition will be to consider O’Keeffe’s professional and personal relationship with Alfred Stieglitz; photographer, modern art pro-
moter and the artist’s husband. Stieglitz was an important influence on her work, encouraging her access to the most current developments in avant-garde
art, she employed these influences and opportunities to her own objectives.
“Georgia O’Keeffe’s sumptuously erotic paintings meld sensuous dreams of flowers
and flesh and radiate tropical heat”
The Mail on Sunday
Collaboration- Georgia O’Keeffe
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The popular notion that O’Keeffe was a simple painter of flowers is a conception she faced during her lifetime. This exhibition will consider these remarkable flower
works in the context of her overall production as multi-layered images, relating them to her engagement with abstraction and issues of form and composition, to her
complex relationship with gendered imagery, bodily analogy and Freudian interpretations, and to her spiritual engagement with the landscape. Charting the progres-
sion of her practice from her early abstract experiments to her late work, this exhibition will re-examine her entire career, her development, her trajectory west, and
the profound influence and legacy of her work.
“Her keen intellect, as well as her forceful and resolute character, created a
fruitful relationship that was, though sometimes conflictive, one of reciprocal
influence and exchange.”
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Our Big Direction
Ted Baker- Get Active
A huge trend in the market is brands that are primariliy Fashion brands bringing in sports
wear ranges to satisfy the more active world we live in. Ted Baker our competitors are
doing this really well, so sportswear/more relaxed garments is something we as Whistles
are going to aim to achieve.
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Mango, Sports Inspired Trousers
Our Foot In The Door
These relaxed trousers are becoming very pop-
ular and are perfect for our new focus consum-
er who wants to feel comfortable in her figure.
Theirs are priced around £30-£40 so we are
going to bring this in for SS17 the put our foot in
the door of this expansion by doing it for better
quality as shown to the right.
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Trend direction
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The overall aesthetic of these catwalk looks is smart with a casual feel. The tones are all very netural
ranging from black to off cream and camel, the trousers are very versatile pieces because they can be
dressed down or up and the clean tones are suitable for spring summer and they could be continued
into further seasons this justifies the price of the garments because they are staple high quality pieces
similar to the way Whistles design. In terms of outfit builds the looks contrast masculine and feminine
shapes. This is communicated by pairing straight leg trousers with embellished cameo tops under smart
blazer like designs.
Catwalk inspiration and analysis
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The fabrics used for the trousers within this range have very clean, crisp surfaces, minus the leather look
trousers.
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Bruuns Bazaar
This catwalk has a very smart luxurious feel, the garments look effortlessly on trend. In terms of colour a narrow yet
effective colour palette is used being made up of black, nude and a muted coral variation, it is important to note that
this coral colour has been prominent more than once in catwalk research similarily has nude within the Pause trend
making them key parts of the overall range. The trouser style is effortless and relaxed, key features include the
waist side tie, light dynamic fabrics, ankle length and clean aesthetic suggested by the lack of pattern.
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Danielle Romeril
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Social media
Man repeller
Garance Dore
Into the gloss
Violet Grey
The Satorialist
Street Pepper
The Business
of Fashion
After an insight meeting with Annie Vallice, Assisant manager at Whistles, Birmingham it was clear who the brand
deem who their consumer to be. Below are the publications and websites Whistles believe their consumer to follow.
After research and deciding to pay more attention to the new focus consumer the researcher feels these could
expand to be more commercial. For example publications such as Grazia, Ok! Magazine, and homeware reading
sources.
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What We Are Doing What We Could Be Doing
Vs
-Video Posts
-More Editorial
-In Store Displays
-More Frequent Posting
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Milan
Paris
New York
London
Tokyo
Melbourne
Street Style
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Key shapes
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Colour palette
Accent Core
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Aesthetic Details
Saturated florals
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Defining Lines Sculpted Pleats
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Print direction
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Final Range
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Ceo Jane Shepardson pays a lot of attention to charity, doing voluntary work for Oxfam and becoming an advisor for ethical fashion
label, People Tree . Thus ethics is very important to Whistles, more recently we have began sourcing fabrics in Portugal as op-
posed to China as standards are higher and the travel is much shorter thus reducing carbon footprint.
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Product Description: Stacey Chino
Code: SS0122
Line Type: Basic
Price:£95.00
Units: Total 3000Pcs, Mint Violet 1000 Pcs, Mist
Pink 1000 Pcs, Tinted Cream, 1000 Pcs
Options:Mint Violet, Mist Pink, Tinted Cream
Composition: 55% Cotton 43% Polyamide 2% Elas-
tane
Origin: Lithuania
Phasing Into Store: January
Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total
Ratio 1 1 2 3 3 3 1 14
Details...
Stacey Chino
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Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing
Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser
Product Description Stacey Chino SS0122
Fabric Composition 55% Cotton, 43% Polyamide, 2% Elastane
Origin Lithuania
Quantity
Total: 3000 Pcs- 1000 Pcs Mint Violet 1000Pcs
Mist Pink, 1000 Pcs Tinted Cream
Options Mint Violet, Mist Pink, Tinted Cream
Size Range Size 4- Size 16
Size Ratio 4:1 6:1 8:2 10:3 12:3 14:3 16:1
Cost Price £27.70
Selling Price (Less VAT) £79.17
Retail Selling Price £95.00
Margin 65%
Order Placed 29/08/2016
Lead Times 22 weeks
Shipping Road
19/09/2016
Department:Trousers
Responcibility
SS0122
Plan 05/09/2016 19/12/2016 23/01/2017 30/01/2017
Revised
26/09/2016 26/09/2016 17/10/2016 14/11/2016 21/11/2016 28/11/2016
Actual
Critical Path...
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Product Description: Essential Tailored
Jumpsuit
Code: SS0123
Line Type: Basic
Price:£120.00
Units: Total: 3000 Pcs, Saturated Florals
600 Pcs, Muted Mint, 1200 Pcs, Mist Vio-
let, 1200 Pcs
Options: Saturated Florals, Muted Mints,
Mist Violet
Composition: 100% Polyester
Origin: Portugal
Phasing Into Store: March
Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total
Ratio 1 1 2 3 3 3 1 14
Details...
Essential Tailored Jumpsuit
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Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing
Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser
Product Description Essential Tailored Jumpsuit SS0123
Fabric Compositon: 100% Polyester Portugal
Origin Portugal
Quantity Total 3000: 600 Pcs Saturated Florals, 1200 Pcs Muted Mint, 1200 Pcs Mist Violet
Options 3 Opinions: Saturated Florals, Muted Mint, Mist Violet
Size Range Size 4- Size 16
Size Ratio 4:1 6:1 8:2 10:3 12:3 14:3 16:1
Cost Price £35.00
Selling Price (Less VAT) £100
Retail Selling Price £120
Margin 65%
Order Placed 03/10/2016
Lead Times 22 weeks
Shipping Road
SS0123
Actual
23/01/2017 27/02/2017 06/03/2017
Revised
24/10/2016 31/10/2016 21/11/2016 19/12/2016 26/12/2016 02/01/2017
Department:Trousers
Responcibility
Plan 10/10/2016 24/10/2016
Critical Path...
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Product Description: Alexandra Cullottes
Code: SS0124
Line Type: Fashion
Price:£100.00
Units: Total: 2000 Pcs, Block Coral, 800 Pcs, Hint-
ed Coral
Options: 3 Options, Block Coral, Hinted Coral, Satu-
rated Florals.
Composition: 70% Acetate 30% Viscose
Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total
Ratio 1 2 3 3 3 1 1 14
Details...
Alexandra Cullottes
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Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing
Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser
Product Description Alexandra Shorts SS0124
Fabric Composition 70% Acetate 30% Viscose
Origin Portugal
Quantity
Total 2000 Pcs: 800 Pcs Block Coral, 800 Pcs Hinted Coral, 400
Pcs Saturated Floral
Options 3 Options, Block Coral, Hinted Coral, Saturated Floral
Size Range Size 4-Size 16
Size Ratio Total : 14 4:1 6:2 8:3 10:3 12:3 14:1 16:1
Cost Price £20.80
Selling Price (Less VAT) £83.30
Retail Selling Price £100
Margin 75%
Order Placed 20/02/2017
Lead Times 15 weeks
Shipping Road
06/03/2017
Department:Trousers
Responcibility
SS0124
Plan 27/02/2017 15/05/2017 29/05/2017 05/06/2017
Revised
06/03/2017 13/03/2017 27/03/2017 24/04/2017 01/05/2017 08/05/2017
Actual
Critical Path...
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Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total
Ratio 1 1 2 3 3 3 1 14
Details...
Relaxed Side Stripe Trousers
Product Description: Relaxed Side Stripe Trousers
Code: SS0125
Line Type: Fashion
Price:£90.00
Units: Total: 900 Pcs, 300 Pcs Pebbled Grey, 300
Pcs Contrast Pink, 300 Pcs Linear Blue
Options: 3 Options, Pebbled Grey, Contrast Pink, Line-
ar Blue
Composition: 55% Linen 45% Viscose
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Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing
Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser
Product
Description
Relaxed Side Stripe Trouser SS0125
Fabric
Composition
55% Linen 45% Viscose
Origin Portugal
Quantity Total 900Pcs, 300 Pcs Pebbled Grey, 300Pcs
Options 3 options: Pebbled Grey, Contrast Pink, Linear Blue
Size Range Size 4-Size 16
Size Ratio Total:14 4:1 6:1 8:2 10:3 12:3 14:3 16:1
Cost Price £18.75
Selling Price
(Less VAT)
£75.00
Retail Selling
Price
£90
Margin 75%
Order
Placed
30/01/2017
Lead Times 15 weeks
Shipping Road
13/02/2017
Department:Trousers
Responcibility
SS0125
Plan 06/02/2017 24/04/2017 08/05/2017 15/05/2017
Revised
13/02/2017 27/02/2017 13/03/2017 03/04/2017 10/04/2017 17/04/2017
Actual
Critical Path...
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Product Description: Aired Cullottes
Code: SS0126
Line Type: Trial
Price:£195.00
Units: Total 900, Pasted Mint, 300 Pcs, Blush Pleat
300 Pcs, Geometric Grey Mute, 300 Pcs.
Options: 3 options, Pasted Mint, Blush Pleat, Geomet-
ric Grey Mute
Composistion: 100% Silk
Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total
Ratio 1 1 3 3 2 1 1 12
Details...
Aired Cullottes
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Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing
Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser
Product Description Aired Cullottes SS0126
Fabric Composition 100% Silk
Origin China
Quantity Total:500Pcs 150 Pcs Geometric Grey, 150 Pcs Pasted Mint, 200 Pcs Blush Pleat
Options 3 Options, Pasted Mint, Blush Pleat, Geometric Grey Mute
Size Range Size 4-Aize 16
Size Ratio Total:12 4:1 6:1 8:3 10:3 12:2 14:1 16:1
Cost Price £32.50
Selling Price (Less VAT) £162.50
Retail Selling Price £195.00
Margin 80%
Order Placed 21/05/2017
Lead Times 10 weeks
Shipping Air
04/06/2017
Department:Trousers
Responcibility
SS0126
Plan 28/05/2017 16/07/2017 30/07/2017 06/08/2017
Revised
04/06/2017 11/06/2017 18/06/2017 02/07/2017 02/07/2017 09/07/2017
Actual
Critical Path...
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Product Description: Wide Leg Trousers
Code: SS0127
Line Type: Trial
Price:£150.00
Units: Total 500Pcs 100Pcs faded Pink, 100Pcs
Statement Coral, 200 Pcs Soft Pleat, 100Pcs Mist
Grey
Options: 4 Options: Faded Pink, Statement Coral, Soft
Pleat, Mist Grey
Composition: 100% Cotton
Phasing: July
Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total
Ratio 1 1 2 3 2 2 1 12
Details...
Wide Leg Trousers
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Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing
Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser
Product Description Wide Leg Trousers SS0127
Fabric Composition 100% Cotton
Origin Portugal
Quantity Total 500Pcs, 100 Pcs Faded Pink, 100 Pcs Statement Coral, 200Pcs Soft Pleat, 100 Pcs Mist Grey
Options 4 Options: Faded Pink, Statement Coral, Soft Pleat, Mist Grey
Size Range Total:12 4:1 6:1 8:2 10:3 12:2 14:2 16:1
Size Ratio Size 4-Size 16
Cost Price £25.00
Selling Price (Less VAT) £125.00
Retail Selling Price £150
Margin 80%
Order Placed 02/05/2017
Lead Times 10 Weeks
Shipping Road
16/05/2017
Department:Trousers
Responcibility
SS0127
Plan 09/05/2017 27/06/2017 04/07/2017 11/07/2017
Revised
16/05/2017 23/05/2017 30/05/2017 13/06/2017 13/06/2017 20/06/2017
Actual
Critical Path...
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Customer outfit builds
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In Store Layout Details
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Second skin
-Products become seamless
extensions of the body
-Human and bionic come to-
gether
-Concepts of beauty are chal-
lenged
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Marbled tints
-Natural grain of wood
-Delicate colour tints
-Unique beauty
-Marble and stone
-A sensitive mood through cosmet-
ic enhancment
-Glass and resin products have a
spiritual, mineral or quartz-like
finish
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Articulated facets
-Origami-like products come to
life in 3D form
-Appearance of rippling in the
breeze
-Real or assumed movement is
captured in matte paper-fold form
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-Surfaces enchant
-Light-interactive products become
ever more refined and wearable
-Integration of light-conductive fi-
bres and LED embriodery
-Calming lucent effects
-Spiritual meditative glow
Enchanted light
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Mock in-store layout
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Phasing into Store
J a n F e b M a r A p r M a y J u n J u l A u g
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Front Page
Image: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles
knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles>
[2 March 2016]
Contents
Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles knit-
wear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles> [2
March 2016]
Page 6-7 images: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-
to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPL-
ga/?tagged=whistles> [2 March 2016]
Page 8-9 images: Anon. (2015) Whistles muse [online] available from <https://uk.pinterest.com/thisiswhistles/whistles-muse/> [2
March 2016]
Text: Cochrane, L. (2016) ‘Whistles conquers the ‘middle market’ of British womenswear’. The Guardian [online] 26 January. available
from <http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2012/aug/24/whistles-middle-market-success> [16 March 2016]
Whistles catwalk ss15
All images: Anon. (2014) Whistles spring/summer 2015 ready-to-wear [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/
spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/whistles> [2 March 2016]
Whistles catwalk ss14
All images: Anon. (2013) Whistles spring/summer 2014 ready-to-wear [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/
spring-summer-2014/ready-to-wear/whistles> [2 March 2016]
Whistles Advertising
All images: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles - h.e.archer design [online] available from <http://www.hearcher.com/Whistles> [2 March 2016]
Celebrity Muses
All images: Anon. (2015) Whistles muse [online] available from <https://uk.pinterest.com/thisiswhistles/whistles-muse/> [2 March
2016]
Comparitive shop analysis
Page 22-23
Cos Image: Edith (2013) ‘About me’ [online] available from <http://www.stylehasnosize.com/2013/home/rotterdam-say-cos/> [2 March
2016]
Whistles image: Bureau and Affairs, V. (n.d.) Thoughts - bureau for visual affairs [online] available from <http://www.bureau-va.com/
thoughts> [2 March 2016]
Reiss image: Anon. (2009) Reiss sample sale starts today [online] available from <http://blog.yinnyang.co.uk/2010/11/reiss-sample-
sale-starts-today/> [2 March 2016]
Referencing
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Primary Research
All images are taken by me (Alex Birkenshaw 2016)
Like for like
Images left to right
1: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com> [2 March
2016]
2: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016]
3: Anon. (2016) REISS Womenswear, menswear & accessories - Iconic fashion clothing [online] available from <https://www.reiss.com>
[2 March 2016]
4: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com> [2 March
2016]
5: Anon. (2016) REISS Womenswear, menswear & accessories - Iconic fashion clothing [online] available from <https://www.reiss.com>
[2 March 2016]
6: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com> [2 March
2016]
7: Anon. (2016) REISS Womenswear, menswear & accessories - Iconic fashion clothing [online] available from <https://www.reiss.com>
[2 March 2016]
Cos logo: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016]
Reiss logo: plc, intu P. (2016) Reiss at intu Trafford centre [online] available from <http://intu.co.uk/traffordcentre/stores/reiss> [2
March 2016]
Whistles logo: Walton, P. (2013) Clients [online] available from <http://www.simonemcewan.co.uk/clients> [2 March 2016]
Wide leg trousers
Images left to right
1-6: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016]
7: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com> [2 March
2016]
Cos logo: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016]
Whistles logo: Walton, P. (2013) Clients [online] available from <http://www.simonemcewan.co.uk/clients> [2 March 2016]
Culottes
Top row images: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.
com> [2 March 2016]
Bottom row images: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016]
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
106
Smart trousers
Top row images: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.
com> [2 March 2016]
Whistles logo: Walton, P. (2013) Clients [online] available from <http://www.simonemcewan.co.uk/clients> [2 March 2016]
Second row images: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016]
Cos logo: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016]
Bottom row images: Anon. (2016) REISS Womenswear, menswear & accessories - Iconic fashion clothing [online] available from <https://
www.reiss.com> [2 March 2016]
Reiss logo: plc, intu P. (2016) Reiss at intu Trafford centre [online] available from <http://intu.co.uk/traffordcentre/stores/reiss> [2
March 2016]
The new focus consumer
All images: Ellison, K. (2016) ‘{The ordinary moments 16} #8 ‘A big milestone and a lovely phase.’ - mummy daddy me’. [21 February
2016] available from <http://www.mummydaddyandmemakesthree.co.uk/family/the-ordinary-moments/the-ordinary-moments-16-8-a-big-
milestone-and-a-lovely-phase/> [2 March 2016]
The common consumer
All Images and text: WHISTLES (2016) Whistles women: Niki Roberton [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/whis-
tles-women-niki-roberton.html> [16 March 2016]
The key piece consumer
Images left to right
1: Avenue, T. (2013) The emerging trends 6th annual fashion show [online] available from <http://northeasternfashion.
com/2013/10/09/the-emerging-trends-6th-annual-fashion-show/> [2 March 2016]
2: Anon. (n.d.) Rachel Cuschieri (@rachelcuschieri8) • Instagram photos and videos [online] available from <https://www.instagram.
com/rachelcuschieri8> [2 March 2016]
3: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles knit-
wear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles> [2
March 2016]
4: Designbeep (n.d.) Apple mac computer free stock photo - StockSnap.io [online] available from <https://uk.pinterest.com/
pin/388224430354627032/> [2 March 2016]
5 and the rest: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-
to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPL-
ga/?tagged=whistles> [2 March 2016]
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
107
Trend, Pause
All images: WGSN (n.d.) Pause trend [online] available from <http://ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk:2264/content/board_viewer/#/58411/page/1>
[2 March 2016]
Exhibition inspiration
Images and text: Museum, G. O. and DACS (2016) Georgia O’Keeffe [online] available from <http://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-mod-
ern/exhibition/georgia-okeeffe> [2 March 2016]
Page 54-55
Ted Baker images: Anon. (2016) Womens fit to a T [online] available from <http://www.tedbaker.com/uk/Womens/Clothing/Fit-to-a-
T/c/fit_t> [16 March 2016]
Mango Images: Terms (2016) MANGO United Kingdom [online] available from <http://shop.mango.com/GB/woman> [16 March 2016]
Trend Direction
Images: WGSN (n.d.) Pause trend [online] available from <http://ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk:2264/content/board_viewer/#/58411/page/1> [2
March 2016]
And Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles
knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles>
[2 March 2016]
Celine catwalk
Anon. (2015) Celine spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/
ready-to-wear/celine> [2 March 2016]
Bruuns Bazaar: Anon. (n.d.) Show [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to-wear/bru-
uns-bazaar/full-length-photos/gallery/1450412> [2 March 2016]
Danielle Romeril catwalk: Anon. (n.d.) Show [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to-
wear/danielle-romeril/full-length-photos/gallery/1478429> [2 March 2016]
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
108
Social media
Man repeller image: Anon. (n.d.) Man Repeller on Instagram: ‘My ears feel like Latin dancers in the night’ [online] available from <https://
www.instagram.com/p/BB78RhIvWNJ/?taken-by=manrepeller> [2 March 2016]
Into the gloss: Anon. (n.d.) Into the gloss on Instagram: €œ@justbobbibrown’s top shelf is here to cure all your winter blues. Link in bio
đŸíŤâ€ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BB2bLgckeY7/?taken-by=intothegloss> [2 March 2016]
Garance dore: Anon. (n.d.) Garance Doré on Instagram: ‘A long busy day starts with waiting for a cab. Or uber. Or walking ;) #nyc #cardio-
fortheday @ralphlauren #rlicons’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BB5bcwrtAal/?taken-by=garancedore> [2 March
2016]
Violet grey: Anon. (n.d.) VIOLET GREY | THE VIOLET FILES on Instagram: “@streicherhair: ‘You’ll definitely feel your hair get drier as you get
older, same as your skin. A good general rule is to treat your hair…”’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BAyAU4aJm-
Dw/?taken-by=violetgrey> [2 March 2016]
The satorialist: Anon. (n.d.) Scott Schuman (@thesartorialist) • Instagram photos and videos [online] available from <https://www.insta-
gram.com/thesartorialist/> [2 March 2016]
Street pepper: Anon. (n.d.) The street pepper on Instagram: ‘#streetfashion #fashionstreet’ [online] available from <https://www.insta-
gram.com/p/BA9AodZBGM4/?taken-by=thestreetpepper> [2 March 2016]
BOF: Anon. (n.d.) The business of fashion (@bof) • Instagram photos and videos [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/
bof/> [2 March 2016]
Page 65
Images: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles
knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles>
[2 March 2016]
And Anon. (2016) ‘CÉLINE’ [online] available from <https://www.celine.com/en> [16 March 2016]
Street Style: Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/
content/reports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016]
Key shapes: Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/
content/reports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016]
Colour Palette: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe
whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online]
And Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/
reports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016]
Aesthetic Details: Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.
ac.uk/content/reports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016]
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
109
Print Direction
City, B. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/reports/#/Fu-
ture+Trends/w> [16 March 2016]
Backgroung Images in Critical path: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who
wears head-to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from
<https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles> [13 March 2016]
Consumer outfit build images:
Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/re-
ports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016]
In store layout details: City, B. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/
content/reports/#/Future+Trends/w> [16 March 2016]
Mock in store layout images: Anon. (n.d.) available from <http://europaconcorsi.com/projects/161442-Alessandro-Puglisi-Store-D> [16
March 2016]
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
110
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
111
WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17
112
 
Assessment  Coversheet  
and  Feedback  Form  
Faculty  of  ADM  
School  of  Fashion  and  Textiles    
  
  
Complete  the  details  marked  in  the  coloured  text  and  leave  everything  else  blank.  Where  appropriate,  copy  and  paste  your  
submission  after  the  first  pages  as  indicated.  You  are  reminded  of  the  University  regulations  on  cheating.  Except  where  the  
assessment   is   group-­based,   the   final   piece   of   work   which   is   submitted   must   be   your   own   work.   Close   similarity   between  
submissions  is  likely  to  lead  to  an  investigation  for  cheating.  You  must  submit  a  file  in  a  PDF  format.  
  
  
  
Student  Name         Alexandra  Birkenshaw   Reasonable  Adjustments     
Student  Number   S15123835   Check  this  box  [x]  if  the  Faculty  has  
notified  you  that  you  are  eligible  for  
a  Reasonable  Adjustment  (including  
additional  time)  in  relation  to  the  
marking  of  this  assessment.  Please  
note  that  action  may  be  taken  under  
the  University’s  Student  Disciplinary  
Procedure  against  any  student  
making  a  false  claim  for  Reasonable  
Adjustments.  
Course  and  Year         Level  4  
Module  Code         FAS4019  
Module  Title         Buying  and  Merchandising    
Module  Tutor   Adele  Thorley  /  Caroline  Raybould  
     
First  Attempt  (where  the  full  range  of  marks  is  available)  
Submission  Date:  Range  Plan  Development  Booklet  –  Friday  18th
  March  by  12pm  
  
Late  Submissions  and  Extensions:  
Students  with  BCU  student  support  statement:  
Please  discuss  your  submission  with  your  tutor  and  
make  a  note  of  your  submission  date  and  time  here:  
Date:   Time:  
Work  submitted  up  to  2  hours  late  will  have  the  mark  reduced  by  10%.  If  this  takes  the  final  mark  below  a  
pass  –  a  pass  mark  will  be  awarded.  
If  work  is  submitted  after  the  deadline  up  to  5  working  days  it  will  be  marked  and  you  will  be  notified  of  the  
mark  but  will  be  recorded  through  the  university  as  a  capped  40%  mark.  Work  submitted  after  the  5  days  
will  not  be  marked  and  be  recorded  as  Fail  -­  non  submission  –  If  you  have  an  extension  for  Exceptional  
Circumstances  this  will  be  taken  into  account  and  you  be  receive  the  full  grade.      
Extenuating  Circumstances  (EC)  claim  forms  and  guidance  notes  are  available  to  down  load  from  i-­city  under  
Complaints  and  Appeals.    Claims  must  be  made  7  days  prior  to  the  submission  date  or  directly  after  hand  in  if  
issues  arise  on  the  hand  in  day.  In  all  cases  clear  evidence  to  support  the  claim  will  be  needed.  
  

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Alex Birkenshaw Final BM book

  • 2. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 2 Brand Introduction 6-7 Background 8-9 Diversion Previous Collections 12-13 SS14 14-15 SS15 16-17 Advertising approach 18-19 Muses Market Position 22-23 Competition 24-27 Primary Research on Whistles 28-29 Primary Research on Reiss 30-31 Primary Research on Cos 32-33 Like for Like products 34-39 Comparing Products The consumer 42-43 The New focus consumer 44-45 The Common consumer 46-47 The Key piece Directional consumer Contents page Creative Outlook 50-51 The Trend 52-53 The Collaboration 54-55 Our big diversion 56-57 Trend Direction 58-63 Catwalk Influences 64-67 Social Media 66-67 Street Style 68-69 Key Shapes 70-71 The colour palette 72-73 Aethetic Details 74-75 Print The Range 76-77 The Final range 78-89 Critical paths 90-93 Outfit Builds In Store Layout 96-99 Details 100-101 Mock Instore layout 102-103 Phasing into store.
  • 6. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 6 Whistles Whistles is a contemporary fashion brand founded in 1976 by Lucille Lew- in which has now expanded to 121 stores world wide. The location of the stores are planned according to their consumer, being predominantly situat- ed in big cities and wealthy towns such as Amersham High street. “Its first store pioneered many new labels and designers in London for the first time, launching John Galliano, Dries Van Noten and Jean Paul Gaultier to name a few. (Whistles Online 2001) The brand is led by CEO Jane Shepherdson, previously brand director at Topshop and known as one of the most influential women in British high street fashion. This makes it interesting that she has moved out of fast fash- ion into a more sustainable retail environment. The brand describe themselves as “encapsulating an intelligent sense of design with timeless and luxurious pieces. Collections are modern and laid back with an attention to detail and quality”. It has been claimed that since Jane’s ownership the brand has changed for the better, it is certain that it has changed, but has this change made them more profit- able and sucessful?
  • 7. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 7 Whistles has been seen to evolve over time, particularly since the financial crisis in 2008, but since the new CEO joined Whistles has a very clear and undeniable brand identi- ty and direction. The brand takes inspiration from contempo- rary influences such as exhibitions, architecture and trend activity. Whistles looks to high-end catwalks for direction from names such as Celine, Givenchy and Chloe. Despite fol- lowing these paths all products meet a certain criterion of having a clean, high quality look. In 2014 Whistles launched it men’s collection, providing contemporary design with mod- ern utility. Whistles menswear is an edited collection that is both considered and versatile, combining understated looks with refined styling; produced to be relevant for work and leisure in the knowledge that what separates those worlds is becoming less defined. Time will tell if the expansion into menswear was a positive strategic move.
  • 8. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 8 Big Diversion for Whistles Whistles have a huge opportunity on their hands, since the rebranding of the label and a clear shift in the customer to an intelligent, quietly gor- geous and effortlessly fashionable consumer, Whistles heritage has lost out. Why not have the best of both worlds? Whistles previous consumer still exists! She is a middle England woman, desperate for something that flatters her figure that she is self conscious of, she doesn’t have much spare time on her hands and wants fast easy shopping. This is why Whis- tles can benefit from reaching out to this consumer group. Cos are a good example of this, they entice the young and the old, maybe this is a way Whistles can create a larger market.
  • 9. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 9 In 2012 at a time when Marks & Spencer announced a 6.8% drop in general sales, Whistles began to quietly flourish. The brand announced that it had brought back the majority of its shares from the Icelandic government a move which underlined its growing strength. Whistles had been independent since 2008 since parting ways from the retail group Mosaic at which point they were de- scribed as going “from strength to strength”. Sales were up 13% in 2011 and there was “consistent double digit like for like sales growth”. In the same year, according to a company statement. Whistles was also the bestselling premium high street brand on Asos. It had been part-owned by the Icelandic government since the banking crises of 2008, when shares owned by the collapsed bank Glitnir were transferred to its ownership. Now Reykjavik owns less than 10% of the retailer after buy-back funds were raised from existing Whistles shareholders. European and American expansion is a key part of the company’s fu- ture strategy, with 20 more UK-wide stores planned for the next two years. This success is largely due to Jane Shepherdson, chief executive at Whistles. The CEO ultimately makes the final decisions re- garding the direction of the brand so it is important to analysise their personal carear paths to understand their vision. Jane has been brand director at Topshop for 8 years,Topshop is a fast fashion brand with a lower age bracket than Whistles mak- ing the move quite a surprising one. She moved to Whistles in 2008 bringing a large part of her team with her. As Shepherdson herself says, “there were frills, bows, extra buttons... quite fussy. I needed to change the brand. It was quite a risky thing to do but it wasn’t an aesthetic that we understood.” “Since then, the clothes have gradually gained a recognisable slickness. Classic shift dresses in vibrant prints, tailored sports- wear pieces and suiting that looks cool rather than conventional is now Whistles’ fare.” Stacey Duguid, Elle’s executive fashion editor, calls Shepherdson “the Phoebe Philo of the high street”, comparing the understated mood of Whistles clothing to that of the Celine designer. This, says Duguid, appeals to a savvy customer. “The Whistles woman is urban,” she says. “She wants to look a little different without being glaringly obvious or looking like she’s trying too hard.” Whistles progression was slow and thus unoticeable at the time, Caren Downie, womenswear director at Asos, credits “the quality of the product and strong fashion handwriting” as integral to its success. “You didn’t notice any massive changes,” adds Graeme Moran, junior fashion editor at Drapers. “It was very gradual and subtle.” Since Whistles has become more directional than commercial the consumer the brand owes their initial success to has been somewhat left out. The middle England woman needs to be brought back in, the frills and bows and so on are what made Whis- tles in the first place. This consumer feels uncomfortable to come in to store more recently. “I feel I can’t buy anything that compliments my figure in Whistles anymore”. “I have always loved the quality of Whistles clothes but I just can’t find anything for me anymore”.
  • 13. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 13 There is a huge variation of trousers within this collection in terms of length, shape, colour, fabric and style. There are three main colour palettes to take notice of, firstly pale pastles such as misty blue, soft pink and sequin cream. These can work well for a number of consumers because they are of a reasonably basic fit and can be dressed up or down. It is the second colour palette that has a tighter knit appeal. This is the pop palette which includes the pink and green to the right of the colour palette displayed, these are more fashion and trial pieces. The pink trousers within this group (3rd image, Top row) are a developed version of cigerette trousers with a nipping high waist and relaxed leg style. The final colour palette is more neautral including blacks and camel. Overall the shapes are all very tailored, mostly high waisted and very high quality pieces.
  • 15. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 15 These garments have a clean cut crisp feel, all of the outfits share a commonality of being baggy and airy with feminine touches such as a peaking midriff or a deep V neck. Key colours include muted coral intwined with black, pink camel and off creams. This combination of colours is perfect for the Whistles consumer reason one being because they are safe, the consumer doesnt want to stand out as trying to hard with the on season electric blue for example, the colours are relaxed and comfortable. Fabric textures inclue laser cutting, rousching, layered frills and clean crisp feels. These communi- cate the trend without overpowering the look. In terms of trousers there is one straight leg pair, one shorts and three extended cullottes, not all styles will suit everyone.
  • 16. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 16 Whistles Advertising approach Clean Simplistic Cool by association Quality Effortless Luxuriant Pulchritudinous Delicate Slight Tasteful Pure Polished
  • 18. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 18 Kate Middleton Kate Middleton and Coincidence Alexa Chung Rosie Fortescue Kim Sears Keira Knightley Caroline Issa Pixie Geldof Celebrity Muses Whistles have been extremely successful in terms of celebrity muses, they do not pay for this to happen which makes it much more exclusive.
  • 19. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 19 Olivia Palermo Lena Dunham Edie Campbell Olivia Palermo Hanneli Annabelle Wallis Whistles are cool by association Cara Delevingne
  • 22. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 22 Competition The two main competitors selected for Whistles are Cos and Reiss.
  • 23. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 23 FACEBOOK INSTAGRAM TWITTER PINTEREST YOUTUBE Whistles 46,366 135 k 36.3 K 7 K 152 Cos 262,655 392 K 1815 30.1 k 1881 Reiss 211,008 92 k 68K 8.5k 1538 Social platform following is a huge part of analysing competition, if a consumer see’s a brand has a large number of followings they instantly think ‘Wow this must be a good brand’ A company advert can creat a good impression but knowing that real people like a brand has a huge positive effect. It is also important to establish what the Whistles consumer follows in terms of social media so they can communicate to her effectively. Whis- tles currently lags behind the competition on each of the social media platforms, as outlined below. Cos has by far the largest social network, Reiss has the highest following on twitter but this is potentially because Cos has only ever made one tweet.
  • 24. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 24 After initially researching Whistles online the researcher gathered an impression how the store would look tangibly, what types of products would be available and other details including customer service, pricing and advertising. It was vital to look at more than one store to get an impression of how accurate Whistles claim is of being an Omni channel brand. Online the brand portray themselves to be reasonably luxury, which would indi-cate a clean store layout with up-to-date and innovative touches. Given the prices of the garments especially one would expect high customer service amongst other details. The first store visited was the Birmingham store in the Bullring, the store is situated next to Selfridges in the high end sec- tion of the shopping centre, facing rivals Cos and Reiss and a stones throw away from the likes of Versace. The store itself has a very clean and minimal feel, only three of each product is on display delicately organised with finger spacing in between each product and the store has a very luxury feel. At this point it was clear what the brand was about, however the same message was not communicated within the next place of research: Whistles concession in John Lewis, High Wycombe. The Whistles section was very cluttered, far more than three products were on display and this made the rail unappealing to search through. Folded clothes and accessories on display tables had been messed around which is bound to happen in any store but as a consumer considering spending lots of money on a product this is not what you would ex-pect to see. Previous best sellers: the pleated Carrie skirt from last year, and the Wisteria pyjamas and Wren pink suit this summer. (2015). Primary Research High Wycombe, John Lewis, Whistles concession
  • 25. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 25 The way the clothes were coordinated and laid out was totally different to that of the Birmingham store, any fashion pieces were snuck away amoungst buldging rails and the pieces which were made more promi- nent were very plain and ‘safe’ pieces. This may be because the John Lewis shopper is very specific and would be better suited to these parts of the range but that doesnt mean that Whistles should sacrifice their values and qualities just because they are in a differ- ent environment, it makes the high quality, expensive garments look cheap and un cared for. After interviewing the staff in the lady’s section it became clear that they had dropped their staff from twelve to four and that this was massively impacting on sales and the look of the brand. Within John Lewis the sales assistants said the customer is of an older age bracket, wealthy and has time to shop in the day. They went on to say that trousers don’t sell what so ever, this is surprising because the selection of trousers on display were particularly basic ‘can’t go wrong with’ trousers such as a variety of smart black trousers and structured leggings with a centred cord, it was explained that the customer who comes into John Lewis is more likely to purchase John Lewis’ own range of trousers. What does sell is slo- gan T-shirts, on the 28th of January they totally sold out of these and given that this new collection came out in January that is very fast. They explained they do take a lot of money just in a different way to the average Whistles store. The re- searcher went on to visit Whistles in Amersham, it was on a smart High street and had the same feel as the Birmingham store, they said they take in a lot of money but they display less fashion and trial pieces.
  • 26. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 26 Westfield, London Whistles Primary Research -Previous financial difficulties -They are a small independent com- pany -Lacks stores worldwide -Accessability due to a smaller amount of stores, thus they are par- ticularily well known -They have recently introduced mens- wear but they dont offer other prod- uct categories such as kidswear/ homeware Strengths Weaknesses -Product and design quality -Clean and stimulating store environ- ment -Visionary leadership -Endorse other brands -Cool by association -New mens line -Innovation -Royal association -known for pioneering John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier
  • 27. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 27 -Huge amount of competition with very similar concepts -Rapid changing fashion trends which are more suited for fast fasjion -Rising product costs -Cheaper alternatives -US customer service knowledge -International expansion -Targeting other consumers espe- cially the middle England woman -Associations with other celebri- ties/designers Opportunities Threats
  • 28. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 28 Primary Research Reiss, Birmingham, The Bullring Growing knitwear collection. Total control over brand equity which is instore environment also visual mer- chandising and product quality. Concessions in House of Fraser growth with reduced risk and cost. David Reiss entrepreneurial drive and well known designer. Successful expansion beyond UK and gained working experience with differ- ent markets. Organic growth since the is no strate- gy driving knitwear forward Confused brand positioning bridging position between mass market and designer No portfolio management future fund- ing for growth or new knitwear lunch- es not defined. Lack of market research or marketing information resulting in misunder- standing of the external environment. Strengths Weaknesses
  • 29. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 29 Greater than before diffusion into ex- isting stores. Increased number of retail outlets Enhanced use of concessions to test new markets New fabric technology Increased competition forcing to share the disposable income Squeezed bridging position by design- ers form above and from below by middle market retailers Opportunties Threats
  • 30. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 30 Primary Research Cos, Birmingham, The Bullring -They offer a nine-five wardrobe -They entice the young and the old -Stimulating and engaging store environment with a luxury feel -Beautiful product packaging (provide a good quality card bag and a fabric sack as opposed to Whistles tissue paper wrapping and card bag) -Their website is clean and easy to navigate around -Their website connects with the consumer on a deeper level with articles/projects adding another dimension and meaning behind design -They collaborate with influential players -Pop up events Lookbook/magazine and newletter offered in store Strong international presence -They offer more departments -Exceptional social media following -They somewhat alienate the younger consumer of whom looks for throw-away pieces at a low- er price point, this is also enhanced by the fact they do not offer student discount -They don’t have a huge amount of stores in the UK Strengths Weaknesses -Part of the same group as H&M meaning they have a big loyal consumer market -Being a chain of other brands they have good re- lationships with suppliers, factories and so on. -Designed with a strong vision of the modern day consumer in mind meaning they are well liked by the modern market of whom want the next best thing. -They provide reasonable quality garments with their expertise being on unique and different pieces -They are slightly cheaper than Whistles
  • 31. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 31 -Develop the in store experience, Whistles offer a very personal shop- ping service and approach to help every customer that comes in, which was something unrecieved in Cos -More celebritity endorsement/col- laborations -More advertising to make them more well known -Competitors store growth worldwide -Competitors offering a more personal shop- ping experience -Competitors investing in their online plat- forms -Consumers may opt for cheaper alternatives Opportunities Threats
  • 32. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 32 Like For Like Pricing: £110 Colour: Black Sizing: 4-14 Style notes: Switch up your go-to mini skirt in lieu of the black Paloma culottes - they’re cut from tactile jacquard fabric to a floaty design that’s chic and easy to wear. Style them with everything from a chunky knit, sheer black tights and heels to a cropped blazer and leather boots. Composition : 35% Viscose 65% Polyester Wash care: Dry clean only Pricing: £225 Colour: Black Sizing: only 38 and 42 in stock Style notes: Slightly flared, these shorts are made from smooth leather with clean raw-cut edges. Designed to sit on the hips, they have slanted front pockets, single welt back pocket and a classic zip fly fastening. They are completed with a loose silky lining. Composition: 100% Lamb leather Wash Care: Dry clean Pricing: £95.00 Colour: Black Sizing- 4-16 (4-6 Sold out) Style notes: Professional yet practical, these city shorts are an ideal office staple for when the warm weather hits. The lightweight classic black fab- rication can be worn with any colour. The high waist fit is super flattering. Composition: 100% Polyester Wash care: Dry Clean All three shorts are very similar and tie in with recent trends. The most expensive is the shorts from Cos at £225, then £110 and £95 and Reiss and Whistles respective- ly. The shorts from Cos are at a justified price given they are made from 100% lamb leather a high quality composition. The shorts from Whistles are made from 100% polyester which is a much cheaper fabric and the Reiss shorts are made from a mix of Viscose and polyester, again a cheaper composition. Shorts Whistles, Cos and Reiss have a number of similarities in terms of branding, market and pricing etc, but it is key to notice differences, What do the stores have that are similar? This is where opportunities can be seen for Whistles amongst its competitors.
  • 33. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 33 MOXIEKNITTEDJOGGERS Price:£110 Colour:Lightgrey Sizing:XS,S,M,L Stylenotes:Loungewear takesaluxuriousturnthis seasonandtheMoxiejoggersareknittedfroma softandlightweightwoolandcashmereblendthat youwon’twanttotakeoff.Theperfectpartner to downtime,wear themwith acottonT-shirtor an oversizedcardiganfor astylish way tostay cosy. Composition:87% Wool11% Cashmere2% Nylon Washcare:HandWash HELENACREPETROUSERS Price:£120.00 Colour:black Sizing:4-16(4,6&16outofstock) StyleNotes:Casualandbeautifully cut, thesejoggersareawardrobestaple. Mergingtherelaxedappealofajogger with aluxuriouscrepefabricandsmart details.Pair with aslouchy jumper for the idealweekendlook. Composition:100% Polyester Wash Care:Machinewash Leather Leggings Drawstring trousers
  • 36. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 36 MOORESUEDECULOTTES Price:£375.00 Colour:Navy Sizing:6-14(alllow stock) StyleNotes:Playwithtexturewiththesesupple suedeculottes.Thisrelaxedfitfeaturesafly,hook andbar fasteningwithfrontseamingdetail.Pair with awhiteknitandcontemporaryplatformfor astylish andmodernlook. Composition:100%Leather Washcare:DryClean LEATHERCULOTTE Price:£250.00 Colour:black Sizing:4-16(alllow stock) StyleNotes:Layer texturalknitsthiswinter with theseleatherculottes.Finishingjustbelow knee length,withaflatteringelasticatedwaistandsubtle sidepockets.Pair withaslimribbedknitfor a essentialwinter look. Composition:100%Leather Washcare:DryClean BELLAZIPDENIMCULOTTE Price:£140.00 Colour:denim Sizing:4-16 Stylenotes:Awide,croppedtrouserisessentialforthe seasonahead.Updateyourexitingwardrobewiththese chicculottes.Detailsincludeanexposedzippullerand midweightdenimfabrication.Pairthemwithamidheel anklebootforextrastylepoints. Composition:100%Cotton Washcare:DryClean STRIPEDCULOTTETROUSERS Price: £45 Colour: Darkblue Sizing: XSSML Stylenotes:These wide-leg culotte trousersare madefromalighweightcotton with an all-over stripepattern.Arelaxed fit, they havean elastic drawstringwaist, in-seampocketsand neat topstitched hems. Composition:100% BCICotton Washcare: Machinewashable WRAP-FRONTTROUSERS Price: £99 Colour: Black Sizing: 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 Style notes: These cropped, wide-leg trousers have a wrap-over front that ties at the waistline, giving the effect of a skirt. Designed to sit on the hips, they have a dropped crotch, zip fly and a single slanted pocket on one side. Composition: 65%Polyester / 31%Viscose / 4%Elastane Wash care: Machine wash in 30°C ROUNDED WIDE-LEGTROUSERS Price: £69 Sizing: 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 Style notes: Asubtly rounded shape, these smooth cotton-blend trousersare a wide-leg style with a cropped hem. Designed to sitjustbelow the waist, they havea dropped crotch, slanted frontpockets and a classic zip fly fastening. Composition: 97% Cotton / 3% Elastane Wash care: Machine washable Culottes Whistles Cos
  • 38. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 38 Price: £125 Colour: Blue Sizing: 4-14 Style notes: Spring is the ideal time to inject some colour into your tailoring repertoire and the slim-leg Salt trousers come in a soft blue hue that feels fresh and relevant. Wear them with a fluid silk blouse in cream and add the coordinating blazer for a feminine take on smart dressing. Composition : 100% Wool Lining composition : Body: 54% Polyester 46% Viscose Sleeve: 65% Viscose 35% Polyester Washcare : Dry Clean Only Price: £110 Colour: forest Sizing: 4-14 Style notes: Utility elements feature throughout the Reiss SS16 collection and the forest-green Diego trousers are a subtle nod to the look. Cut to a high-rise, tapered silhouette with a single back pocket, they’re a relaxed take on tailoring and work with both flats and heels at the weekend. Composition : 97% Viscose 3% Elastane Lining composition : 100% Polyester Washcare : Dry Clean Only Pricing: £120 Colour: Slate Sizing: 4-14 Style notes: Loosely tailored to a straight, ankle-length design for a casual take on tailoring, the slate-hued Barratt trousers are the perfect work to weekend pair. Team them with a fine cashmere knit and flats for a chic combination. Composition : 49% Wool 49% Polyester 2% Elastane Lining composition : 100% Polyester Wash care: Dry clean only Price: £79 Colour: Black Sizing: 34, 36, 38, 40 ,42 and 44 Style notes:These tailored trousers are made from fine, lightweight wool with press folds along the front and back. Designed to sit just below the waist and a tapered fit, they have in-seam pockets, zip fly fastening and a single welt pocket on the back. Composition: 100% Wool Wash care: Dry clean Price: £69 Colour: Pale blue Sizing: 34-44 Style notes:These trousers are made from a soft denim with a slight stretch. Designed to sit on the waist and with a dropped crotch, it has subtle in-seam pockets, a back welt pocket and a hidden side zip. Composition: 98% Cotton / 2% Elastane Wash care: Machine washable Price: £79 Colour: Navy Sizing: 34-44 Style notes: A relaxed fit, these slightly tapered trousers are made from wool- mix with a comfortable stretch finish. Designed to sit between the hip and waist, they have a dropped crotch, slanted front pockets and a classic zip fly. Composition: 48% Wool / 48% Viscose / 4% Elastane Wash care: Dry clean Price: £120.00 Colour: Black Size: 4-16 (Size 14 and 16 low on stock) Style notes: Update your work wardrobe with these smart black trousers. Details include a bootcut hem, neat front creases and a front fly and hook and bar fastening. Pair with a loose silk shirt for a winning Monday to Friday look. Composition: 53% Polyester, 43% Wool, 4% Elastane Wash care: Dry Clean Price: £150.00 Colour: Navy Size: 4-16 (4, 14 and 16 low on stock) Style notes: Update your work wardrobe with these smart navy wool trousers. Details include a bootcut hem, neat front creases and a front fly and hook and bar fastening. Pair with a ribbed knit for a foolproof look. Composition: 100% Wool Wash care: Dry Clean Smart Trousers
  • 39. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 39 Average Price: £82.30 Average price: £135 Average Price: £118.30 No other styles Other avaliable style Other avaliable styles
  • 43. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 43 This is our new focus consumer, since the new ownership and thus rebranding of Whistles we have somewhat neglected the consumer we owe our success too. This is an opportunity for us to broaden our market. Our previous faithful consumer such as Katie doesn’t feel as comfortable as she once did to shop in Whistles. As mar- ket research other new focus consumers were interviewed and responces included: “I don’t mind Whistles prices because I trust their quality but the shapes of the clothes has become far to daring for me” “I always used to be able to find some- thing to flatter my figure in Whistles but now I really can’t” Name:Katie Age: 36 Family Make Up: Katie has two daughters aged 6 and 3, she is married to her child- hood sweetheart Tom. How do you spend your free time? My life revolves around my family so when I’m not caring for them, walking the dog, working or sorting the house out I’m on the phone to my friends or out for a catch up with them. I watch a lot of day time TV too. Where do you shop? Jigsaw, concessions in department stores, Next, Tesco F&F (If something catches my eye while i’m food shopping) Do you shop online or in store? I like to go in to store so I don’t have to worry about sending things back. Me and my girlfriends go on shopping weekends every so often. What radio do you listen to? Heart, but normaly kids CD’s! Where do you aspire to shop? Somewhere with high quality clothing that is quietly fashionable and that will be able to compliment my figure. What is your job title? I am a midwife What do you watch on TV? I get stuck into the next best series on BBC and lots of daytime TV. Who is your bestfriend? My mum and sister What food do you like to eat? I try to be as healthy as possible but because I eat on the go lots this gets tricky. What qualities would you want your S/S 17 Trousers to have? quality fabric, excel- lent fit, product detail.
  • 45. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 45 Name: Nikki Robertson Age: 31 Family make up: She lives with her husband and dog in LA. How do you spend your free time? I spend time with my family, listen to records or go to music events. I also love to holiday and try different food. Where do you shop? I used to wear a lot of layers, and growing up in England, it was all about tights. Since I’ve been in LA, I’ve become more confident with my body and I wear things that maybe I wouldn’t have when I first moved here. I’m really into longer length styles at the moment. I always used to wear skirts and dresses, I was a real girly girl but with masculine jewellery or boots, but now I love wearing trousers. And I’m a big fan of black. It’s a uniform. Do you shop online or in store? Both What radio do you listen to? I don’t get time! But for research I have to listen to most stations for my job Where do you aspire to shop? I have two Chanel bags which I love, so I aspire to shop there and similar places. What is your job title? I run my own record label What do you love about living in LA? The weather, which is such a cliché but so true. I’ve lived here over 10 years so I’ve got really close friends and my work is here. Even though I grew up in London and there are hundreds of things that I miss, my life is here now. I love living on the West Coast.
  • 47. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 47 Age: 23 Family make up: I live with my bestfriend How do you spend your free time? I travel lots for my job so when I’m not working but abroad I’ll dip into the tourist features there, other than that I take lots of short holiday breaks with my friends, visit exhibitions and stay very up to date with fashion. Where do you shop? Everywhere! If I decide I want something in particular I will shop around for it, I shop at Asos and Zara often but for more staple pieces I look to Whistles and other brands. Do you shop online or in store? Both What radio do you listen to? Radio 1/Kiss 100 Who are your role models? My colleagues and parents Where do you aspire to shop? Highend brands such as Celine What is your job title? Journalist What do you watch on TV? The news, Kardashians and other rubbish Who is your bestfriend? My house mate who i met at university What food do you like? I try to eat very healthy and I love organic fresh foods What would you look for in a summer trouser? Lightweight and high quality, on trend.
  • 50. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 50 -Seven year transition of the use of technology -Time will be considered the most desirable luxury -Objects will come to life and mimic personality traits -A seamless bond will form to integrate tech- nology and the body, exploring bonds between organic and manmade. -A new form of luxury will be seen -Meaning overrides function -Natural -A focus on how you live not what you own Trend- Pause
  • 51. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 51 Pause is a 7-year period where time will be considered the ul- timate luxury. The period is a cyclical event, every 15-20 years there’s a technological breakthrough that has mass adoption. The previous example of this was in 2007 around the release of the IPhone, the man technolog-ical focus for Pause is Artificial intelligence which will see mass adoption by 2022. There are a number of key influences and features of this period, firstly the concept of time. The way time is viewed will totally adapt, time is represented by the golden stepping stone which is Natural, Rare and Sublime. The will lead to the greater interest in vacation, since global connectivity has extended the average working week has increased meaning the consumer values free time more. 30% Americans said they would rather have more vacation time over enhanced health care plans. This was one of the key drivers for the recent theory regarding that changing com-pany benefits is hard and expensive whereas re-evaluating vacation policies is fairly straight forward and much more beneficial for both the staff and the company. Some companies are taking this theory on to see results by 2017 such as Richard Branson, Net- flix and Google. Other key features of the trend include wearable technology, mindful breaks and Augmented reality. The aesthetic of the trend is what the designer will mostly take into considera- tion here.
  • 52. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 52 Tate Modern are presenting a major exhibition by Georgia O’Keeffe from the 6th July. The exhibition will tour throughout 2017 thus being a major influence upon creativity within that year. The values this artist transpires fit perfectly with Whistles beliefs, making this exhibition a key inspiration for the 2017 spring/ summer collection. Why? She is claims as an important pioneer by feminist artists of the 1970s, she is a single-minded character who identified her ambi- tion to become an artist when she was still a child and achieved this within her seven-decade career. O’Keeffe was an exceptional landscape artist, thus this exhibition will relate her previous practice through American tradition of landscape paining as well as forward to anticipate the gendered landscapes and statements of feminist artists of later generations. A prominent aspect of the exhibition will be to consider O’Keeffe’s professional and personal relationship with Alfred Stieglitz; photographer, modern art pro- moter and the artist’s husband. Stieglitz was an important influence on her work, encouraging her access to the most current developments in avant-garde art, she employed these influences and opportunities to her own objectives. “Georgia O’Keeffe’s sumptuously erotic paintings meld sensuous dreams of flowers and flesh and radiate tropical heat” The Mail on Sunday Collaboration- Georgia O’Keeffe
  • 53. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 53 The popular notion that O’Keeffe was a simple painter of flowers is a conception she faced during her lifetime. This exhibition will consider these remarkable flower works in the context of her overall production as multi-layered images, relating them to her engagement with abstraction and issues of form and composition, to her complex relationship with gendered imagery, bodily analogy and Freudian interpretations, and to her spiritual engagement with the landscape. Charting the progres- sion of her practice from her early abstract experiments to her late work, this exhibition will re-examine her entire career, her development, her trajectory west, and the profound influence and legacy of her work. “Her keen intellect, as well as her forceful and resolute character, created a fruitful relationship that was, though sometimes conflictive, one of reciprocal influence and exchange.”
  • 54. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 54 Our Big Direction Ted Baker- Get Active A huge trend in the market is brands that are primariliy Fashion brands bringing in sports wear ranges to satisfy the more active world we live in. Ted Baker our competitors are doing this really well, so sportswear/more relaxed garments is something we as Whistles are going to aim to achieve.
  • 55. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 55 Mango, Sports Inspired Trousers Our Foot In The Door These relaxed trousers are becoming very pop- ular and are perfect for our new focus consum- er who wants to feel comfortable in her figure. Theirs are priced around £30-£40 so we are going to bring this in for SS17 the put our foot in the door of this expansion by doing it for better quality as shown to the right.
  • 58. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 58 The overall aesthetic of these catwalk looks is smart with a casual feel. The tones are all very netural ranging from black to off cream and camel, the trousers are very versatile pieces because they can be dressed down or up and the clean tones are suitable for spring summer and they could be continued into further seasons this justifies the price of the garments because they are staple high quality pieces similar to the way Whistles design. In terms of outfit builds the looks contrast masculine and feminine shapes. This is communicated by pairing straight leg trousers with embellished cameo tops under smart blazer like designs. Catwalk inspiration and analysis
  • 59. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 59 The fabrics used for the trousers within this range have very clean, crisp surfaces, minus the leather look trousers.
  • 60. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 60 Bruuns Bazaar This catwalk has a very smart luxurious feel, the garments look effortlessly on trend. In terms of colour a narrow yet effective colour palette is used being made up of black, nude and a muted coral variation, it is important to note that this coral colour has been prominent more than once in catwalk research similarily has nude within the Pause trend making them key parts of the overall range. The trouser style is effortless and relaxed, key features include the waist side tie, light dynamic fabrics, ankle length and clean aesthetic suggested by the lack of pattern.
  • 64. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 64 Social media Man repeller Garance Dore Into the gloss Violet Grey The Satorialist Street Pepper The Business of Fashion After an insight meeting with Annie Vallice, Assisant manager at Whistles, Birmingham it was clear who the brand deem who their consumer to be. Below are the publications and websites Whistles believe their consumer to follow. After research and deciding to pay more attention to the new focus consumer the researcher feels these could expand to be more commercial. For example publications such as Grazia, Ok! Magazine, and homeware reading sources.
  • 65. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 65 What We Are Doing What We Could Be Doing Vs -Video Posts -More Editorial -In Store Displays -More Frequent Posting
  • 77. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 77 Ceo Jane Shepardson pays a lot of attention to charity, doing voluntary work for Oxfam and becoming an advisor for ethical fashion label, People Tree . Thus ethics is very important to Whistles, more recently we have began sourcing fabrics in Portugal as op- posed to China as standards are higher and the travel is much shorter thus reducing carbon footprint.
  • 78. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 78 Product Description: Stacey Chino Code: SS0122 Line Type: Basic Price:£95.00 Units: Total 3000Pcs, Mint Violet 1000 Pcs, Mist Pink 1000 Pcs, Tinted Cream, 1000 Pcs Options:Mint Violet, Mist Pink, Tinted Cream Composition: 55% Cotton 43% Polyamide 2% Elas- tane Origin: Lithuania Phasing Into Store: January Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total Ratio 1 1 2 3 3 3 1 14 Details... Stacey Chino
  • 79. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 79 Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser Product Description Stacey Chino SS0122 Fabric Composition 55% Cotton, 43% Polyamide, 2% Elastane Origin Lithuania Quantity Total: 3000 Pcs- 1000 Pcs Mint Violet 1000Pcs Mist Pink, 1000 Pcs Tinted Cream Options Mint Violet, Mist Pink, Tinted Cream Size Range Size 4- Size 16 Size Ratio 4:1 6:1 8:2 10:3 12:3 14:3 16:1 Cost Price £27.70 Selling Price (Less VAT) £79.17 Retail Selling Price £95.00 Margin 65% Order Placed 29/08/2016 Lead Times 22 weeks Shipping Road 19/09/2016 Department:Trousers Responcibility SS0122 Plan 05/09/2016 19/12/2016 23/01/2017 30/01/2017 Revised 26/09/2016 26/09/2016 17/10/2016 14/11/2016 21/11/2016 28/11/2016 Actual Critical Path...
  • 80. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 80 Product Description: Essential Tailored Jumpsuit Code: SS0123 Line Type: Basic Price:£120.00 Units: Total: 3000 Pcs, Saturated Florals 600 Pcs, Muted Mint, 1200 Pcs, Mist Vio- let, 1200 Pcs Options: Saturated Florals, Muted Mints, Mist Violet Composition: 100% Polyester Origin: Portugal Phasing Into Store: March Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total Ratio 1 1 2 3 3 3 1 14 Details... Essential Tailored Jumpsuit
  • 81. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 81 Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser Product Description Essential Tailored Jumpsuit SS0123 Fabric Compositon: 100% Polyester Portugal Origin Portugal Quantity Total 3000: 600 Pcs Saturated Florals, 1200 Pcs Muted Mint, 1200 Pcs Mist Violet Options 3 Opinions: Saturated Florals, Muted Mint, Mist Violet Size Range Size 4- Size 16 Size Ratio 4:1 6:1 8:2 10:3 12:3 14:3 16:1 Cost Price £35.00 Selling Price (Less VAT) £100 Retail Selling Price £120 Margin 65% Order Placed 03/10/2016 Lead Times 22 weeks Shipping Road SS0123 Actual 23/01/2017 27/02/2017 06/03/2017 Revised 24/10/2016 31/10/2016 21/11/2016 19/12/2016 26/12/2016 02/01/2017 Department:Trousers Responcibility Plan 10/10/2016 24/10/2016 Critical Path...
  • 82. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 82 Product Description: Alexandra Cullottes Code: SS0124 Line Type: Fashion Price:£100.00 Units: Total: 2000 Pcs, Block Coral, 800 Pcs, Hint- ed Coral Options: 3 Options, Block Coral, Hinted Coral, Satu- rated Florals. Composition: 70% Acetate 30% Viscose Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total Ratio 1 2 3 3 3 1 1 14 Details... Alexandra Cullottes
  • 83. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 83 Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser Product Description Alexandra Shorts SS0124 Fabric Composition 70% Acetate 30% Viscose Origin Portugal Quantity Total 2000 Pcs: 800 Pcs Block Coral, 800 Pcs Hinted Coral, 400 Pcs Saturated Floral Options 3 Options, Block Coral, Hinted Coral, Saturated Floral Size Range Size 4-Size 16 Size Ratio Total : 14 4:1 6:2 8:3 10:3 12:3 14:1 16:1 Cost Price £20.80 Selling Price (Less VAT) £83.30 Retail Selling Price £100 Margin 75% Order Placed 20/02/2017 Lead Times 15 weeks Shipping Road 06/03/2017 Department:Trousers Responcibility SS0124 Plan 27/02/2017 15/05/2017 29/05/2017 05/06/2017 Revised 06/03/2017 13/03/2017 27/03/2017 24/04/2017 01/05/2017 08/05/2017 Actual Critical Path...
  • 84. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 84 Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total Ratio 1 1 2 3 3 3 1 14 Details... Relaxed Side Stripe Trousers Product Description: Relaxed Side Stripe Trousers Code: SS0125 Line Type: Fashion Price:£90.00 Units: Total: 900 Pcs, 300 Pcs Pebbled Grey, 300 Pcs Contrast Pink, 300 Pcs Linear Blue Options: 3 Options, Pebbled Grey, Contrast Pink, Line- ar Blue Composition: 55% Linen 45% Viscose
  • 85. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 85 Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser Product Description Relaxed Side Stripe Trouser SS0125 Fabric Composition 55% Linen 45% Viscose Origin Portugal Quantity Total 900Pcs, 300 Pcs Pebbled Grey, 300Pcs Options 3 options: Pebbled Grey, Contrast Pink, Linear Blue Size Range Size 4-Size 16 Size Ratio Total:14 4:1 6:1 8:2 10:3 12:3 14:3 16:1 Cost Price £18.75 Selling Price (Less VAT) £75.00 Retail Selling Price £90 Margin 75% Order Placed 30/01/2017 Lead Times 15 weeks Shipping Road 13/02/2017 Department:Trousers Responcibility SS0125 Plan 06/02/2017 24/04/2017 08/05/2017 15/05/2017 Revised 13/02/2017 27/02/2017 13/03/2017 03/04/2017 10/04/2017 17/04/2017 Actual Critical Path...
  • 86. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 86 Product Description: Aired Cullottes Code: SS0126 Line Type: Trial Price:£195.00 Units: Total 900, Pasted Mint, 300 Pcs, Blush Pleat 300 Pcs, Geometric Grey Mute, 300 Pcs. Options: 3 options, Pasted Mint, Blush Pleat, Geomet- ric Grey Mute Composistion: 100% Silk Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total Ratio 1 1 3 3 2 1 1 12 Details... Aired Cullottes
  • 87. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 87 Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser Product Description Aired Cullottes SS0126 Fabric Composition 100% Silk Origin China Quantity Total:500Pcs 150 Pcs Geometric Grey, 150 Pcs Pasted Mint, 200 Pcs Blush Pleat Options 3 Options, Pasted Mint, Blush Pleat, Geometric Grey Mute Size Range Size 4-Aize 16 Size Ratio Total:12 4:1 6:1 8:3 10:3 12:2 14:1 16:1 Cost Price £32.50 Selling Price (Less VAT) £162.50 Retail Selling Price £195.00 Margin 80% Order Placed 21/05/2017 Lead Times 10 weeks Shipping Air 04/06/2017 Department:Trousers Responcibility SS0126 Plan 28/05/2017 16/07/2017 30/07/2017 06/08/2017 Revised 04/06/2017 11/06/2017 18/06/2017 02/07/2017 02/07/2017 09/07/2017 Actual Critical Path...
  • 88. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 88 Product Description: Wide Leg Trousers Code: SS0127 Line Type: Trial Price:£150.00 Units: Total 500Pcs 100Pcs faded Pink, 100Pcs Statement Coral, 200 Pcs Soft Pleat, 100Pcs Mist Grey Options: 4 Options: Faded Pink, Statement Coral, Soft Pleat, Mist Grey Composition: 100% Cotton Phasing: July Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Total Ratio 1 1 2 3 2 2 1 12 Details... Wide Leg Trousers
  • 89. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 89 Style Number First Fit Lab Dip Approval Trim Approval Seal Approval Bulk Approval Raw Materials IH Cut Date Production Sample Ex Factory ETA Phasing Garment Tech Buyer Buyer Garment Tech Buyer Factory Factory Factory Factory/Merch Factory/Merch Merchandiser Product Description Wide Leg Trousers SS0127 Fabric Composition 100% Cotton Origin Portugal Quantity Total 500Pcs, 100 Pcs Faded Pink, 100 Pcs Statement Coral, 200Pcs Soft Pleat, 100 Pcs Mist Grey Options 4 Options: Faded Pink, Statement Coral, Soft Pleat, Mist Grey Size Range Total:12 4:1 6:1 8:2 10:3 12:2 14:2 16:1 Size Ratio Size 4-Size 16 Cost Price £25.00 Selling Price (Less VAT) £125.00 Retail Selling Price £150 Margin 80% Order Placed 02/05/2017 Lead Times 10 Weeks Shipping Road 16/05/2017 Department:Trousers Responcibility SS0127 Plan 09/05/2017 27/06/2017 04/07/2017 11/07/2017 Revised 16/05/2017 23/05/2017 30/05/2017 13/06/2017 13/06/2017 20/06/2017 Actual Critical Path...
  • 96. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 96 Second skin -Products become seamless extensions of the body -Human and bionic come to- gether -Concepts of beauty are chal- lenged
  • 97. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 97 Marbled tints -Natural grain of wood -Delicate colour tints -Unique beauty -Marble and stone -A sensitive mood through cosmet- ic enhancment -Glass and resin products have a spiritual, mineral or quartz-like finish
  • 98. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 98 Articulated facets -Origami-like products come to life in 3D form -Appearance of rippling in the breeze -Real or assumed movement is captured in matte paper-fold form
  • 99. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 99 -Surfaces enchant -Light-interactive products become ever more refined and wearable -Integration of light-conductive fi- bres and LED embriodery -Calming lucent effects -Spiritual meditative glow Enchanted light
  • 102. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 102 Phasing into Store J a n F e b M a r A p r M a y J u n J u l A u g
  • 104. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 104 Front Page Image: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles> [2 March 2016] Contents Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles knit- wear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles> [2 March 2016] Page 6-7 images: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head- to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPL- ga/?tagged=whistles> [2 March 2016] Page 8-9 images: Anon. (2015) Whistles muse [online] available from <https://uk.pinterest.com/thisiswhistles/whistles-muse/> [2 March 2016] Text: Cochrane, L. (2016) ‘Whistles conquers the ‘middle market’ of British womenswear’. The Guardian [online] 26 January. available from <http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2012/aug/24/whistles-middle-market-success> [16 March 2016] Whistles catwalk ss15 All images: Anon. (2014) Whistles spring/summer 2015 ready-to-wear [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/whistles> [2 March 2016] Whistles catwalk ss14 All images: Anon. (2013) Whistles spring/summer 2014 ready-to-wear [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ spring-summer-2014/ready-to-wear/whistles> [2 March 2016] Whistles Advertising All images: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles - h.e.archer design [online] available from <http://www.hearcher.com/Whistles> [2 March 2016] Celebrity Muses All images: Anon. (2015) Whistles muse [online] available from <https://uk.pinterest.com/thisiswhistles/whistles-muse/> [2 March 2016] Comparitive shop analysis Page 22-23 Cos Image: Edith (2013) ‘About me’ [online] available from <http://www.stylehasnosize.com/2013/home/rotterdam-say-cos/> [2 March 2016] Whistles image: Bureau and Affairs, V. (n.d.) Thoughts - bureau for visual affairs [online] available from <http://www.bureau-va.com/ thoughts> [2 March 2016] Reiss image: Anon. (2009) Reiss sample sale starts today [online] available from <http://blog.yinnyang.co.uk/2010/11/reiss-sample- sale-starts-today/> [2 March 2016] Referencing
  • 105. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 105 Primary Research All images are taken by me (Alex Birkenshaw 2016) Like for like Images left to right 1: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com> [2 March 2016] 2: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016] 3: Anon. (2016) REISS Womenswear, menswear & accessories - Iconic fashion clothing [online] available from <https://www.reiss.com> [2 March 2016] 4: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com> [2 March 2016] 5: Anon. (2016) REISS Womenswear, menswear & accessories - Iconic fashion clothing [online] available from <https://www.reiss.com> [2 March 2016] 6: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com> [2 March 2016] 7: Anon. (2016) REISS Womenswear, menswear & accessories - Iconic fashion clothing [online] available from <https://www.reiss.com> [2 March 2016] Cos logo: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016] Reiss logo: plc, intu P. (2016) Reiss at intu Trafford centre [online] available from <http://intu.co.uk/traffordcentre/stores/reiss> [2 March 2016] Whistles logo: Walton, P. (2013) Clients [online] available from <http://www.simonemcewan.co.uk/clients> [2 March 2016] Wide leg trousers Images left to right 1-6: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016] 7: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com> [2 March 2016] Cos logo: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016] Whistles logo: Walton, P. (2013) Clients [online] available from <http://www.simonemcewan.co.uk/clients> [2 March 2016] Culottes Top row images: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles. com> [2 March 2016] Bottom row images: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016]
  • 106. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 106 Smart trousers Top row images: WHISTLES (n.d.) Women’s clothing, men’s clothing, contemporary fashion [online] available from <http://www.whistles. com> [2 March 2016] Whistles logo: Walton, P. (2013) Clients [online] available from <http://www.simonemcewan.co.uk/clients> [2 March 2016] Second row images: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016] Cos logo: Anon. (n.d.) Cosstores.com [online] available from <http://www.cosstores.com/gb/> [2 March 2016] Bottom row images: Anon. (2016) REISS Womenswear, menswear & accessories - Iconic fashion clothing [online] available from <https:// www.reiss.com> [2 March 2016] Reiss logo: plc, intu P. (2016) Reiss at intu Trafford centre [online] available from <http://intu.co.uk/traffordcentre/stores/reiss> [2 March 2016] The new focus consumer All images: Ellison, K. (2016) ‘{The ordinary moments 16} #8 ‘A big milestone and a lovely phase.’ - mummy daddy me’. [21 February 2016] available from <http://www.mummydaddyandmemakesthree.co.uk/family/the-ordinary-moments/the-ordinary-moments-16-8-a-big- milestone-and-a-lovely-phase/> [2 March 2016] The common consumer All Images and text: WHISTLES (2016) Whistles women: Niki Roberton [online] available from <http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/whis- tles-women-niki-roberton.html> [16 March 2016] The key piece consumer Images left to right 1: Avenue, T. (2013) The emerging trends 6th annual fashion show [online] available from <http://northeasternfashion. com/2013/10/09/the-emerging-trends-6th-annual-fashion-show/> [2 March 2016] 2: Anon. (n.d.) Rachel Cuschieri (@rachelcuschieri8) • Instagram photos and videos [online] available from <https://www.instagram. com/rachelcuschieri8> [2 March 2016] 3: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles knit- wear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles> [2 March 2016] 4: Designbeep (n.d.) Apple mac computer free stock photo - StockSnap.io [online] available from <https://uk.pinterest.com/ pin/388224430354627032/> [2 March 2016] 5 and the rest: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head- to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPL- ga/?tagged=whistles> [2 March 2016]
  • 107. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 107 Trend, Pause All images: WGSN (n.d.) Pause trend [online] available from <http://ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk:2264/content/board_viewer/#/58411/page/1> [2 March 2016] Exhibition inspiration Images and text: Museum, G. O. and DACS (2016) Georgia O’Keeffe [online] available from <http://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-mod- ern/exhibition/georgia-okeeffe> [2 March 2016] Page 54-55 Ted Baker images: Anon. (2016) Womens fit to a T [online] available from <http://www.tedbaker.com/uk/Womens/Clothing/Fit-to-a- T/c/fit_t> [16 March 2016] Mango Images: Terms (2016) MANGO United Kingdom [online] available from <http://shop.mango.com/GB/woman> [16 March 2016] Trend Direction Images: WGSN (n.d.) Pause trend [online] available from <http://ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk:2264/content/board_viewer/#/58411/page/1> [2 March 2016] And Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles> [2 March 2016] Celine catwalk Anon. (2015) Celine spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ ready-to-wear/celine> [2 March 2016] Bruuns Bazaar: Anon. (n.d.) Show [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to-wear/bru- uns-bazaar/full-length-photos/gallery/1450412> [2 March 2016] Danielle Romeril catwalk: Anon. (n.d.) Show [online] available from <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to- wear/danielle-romeril/full-length-photos/gallery/1478429> [2 March 2016]
  • 108. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 108 Social media Man repeller image: Anon. (n.d.) Man Repeller on Instagram: ‘My ears feel like Latin dancers in the night’ [online] available from <https:// www.instagram.com/p/BB78RhIvWNJ/?taken-by=manrepeller> [2 March 2016] Into the gloss: Anon. (n.d.) Into the gloss on Instagram: €œ@justbobbibrown’s top shelf is here to cure all your winter blues. Link in bio đŸíŤâ€ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BB2bLgckeY7/?taken-by=intothegloss> [2 March 2016] Garance dore: Anon. (n.d.) Garance Doré on Instagram: ‘A long busy day starts with waiting for a cab. Or uber. Or walking ;) #nyc #cardio- fortheday @ralphlauren #rlicons’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BB5bcwrtAal/?taken-by=garancedore> [2 March 2016] Violet grey: Anon. (n.d.) VIOLET GREY | THE VIOLET FILES on Instagram: “@streicherhair: ‘You’ll definitely feel your hair get drier as you get older, same as your skin. A good general rule is to treat your hair…”’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BAyAU4aJm- Dw/?taken-by=violetgrey> [2 March 2016] The satorialist: Anon. (n.d.) Scott Schuman (@thesartorialist) • Instagram photos and videos [online] available from <https://www.insta- gram.com/thesartorialist/> [2 March 2016] Street pepper: Anon. (n.d.) The street pepper on Instagram: ‘#streetfashion #fashionstreet’ [online] available from <https://www.insta- gram.com/p/BA9AodZBGM4/?taken-by=thestreetpepper> [2 March 2016] BOF: Anon. (n.d.) The business of fashion (@bof) • Instagram photos and videos [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/ bof/> [2 March 2016] Page 65 Images: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles> [2 March 2016] And Anon. (2016) ‘CÉLINE’ [online] available from <https://www.celine.com/en> [16 March 2016] Street Style: Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/ content/reports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016] Key shapes: Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/ content/reports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016] Colour Palette: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] And Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/ reports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016] Aesthetic Details: Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu. ac.uk/content/reports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016]
  • 109. WhistlesTrousersRangeSS17 109 Print Direction City, B. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/reports/#/Fu- ture+Trends/w> [16 March 2016] Backgroung Images in Critical path: Anon. (n.d.) Whistles on Instagram: ‘We love this effortless and polished look from @petrostofberg who wears head-to-toe whistles knitwear at London fashion week - the rib Mix…’ [online] available from <https://www.instagram.com/p/BCGV75BPLga/?tagged=whistles> [13 March 2016] Consumer outfit build images: Street Style, W. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/re- ports/#/Street+Style> [16 March 2016] In store layout details: City, B. (n.d.) Birmingham city university - sign in [online] available from <http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/ content/reports/#/Future+Trends/w> [16 March 2016] Mock in store layout images: Anon. (n.d.) available from <http://europaconcorsi.com/projects/161442-Alessandro-Puglisi-Store-D> [16 March 2016]
  • 113.   Assessment  Coversheet   and  Feedback  Form   Faculty  of  ADM   School  of  Fashion  and  Textiles         Complete  the  details  marked  in  the  coloured  text  and  leave  everything  else  blank.  Where  appropriate,  copy  and  paste  your   submission  after  the  first  pages  as  indicated.  You  are  reminded  of  the  University  regulations  on  cheating.  Except  where  the   assessment   is   group-­based,   the   final   piece   of   work   which   is   submitted   must   be   your   own   work.   Close   similarity   between   submissions  is  likely  to  lead  to  an  investigation  for  cheating.  You  must  submit  a  file  in  a  PDF  format.         Student  Name         Alexandra  Birkenshaw   Reasonable  Adjustments     Student  Number   S15123835   Check  this  box  [x]  if  the  Faculty  has   notified  you  that  you  are  eligible  for   a  Reasonable  Adjustment  (including   additional  time)  in  relation  to  the   marking  of  this  assessment.  Please   note  that  action  may  be  taken  under   the  University’s  Student  Disciplinary   Procedure  against  any  student   making  a  false  claim  for  Reasonable   Adjustments.   Course  and  Year         Level  4   Module  Code         FAS4019   Module  Title         Buying  and  Merchandising     Module  Tutor   Adele  Thorley  /  Caroline  Raybould       First  Attempt  (where  the  full  range  of  marks  is  available)   Submission  Date:  Range  Plan  Development  Booklet  –  Friday  18th  March  by  12pm     Late  Submissions  and  Extensions:   Students  with  BCU  student  support  statement:   Please  discuss  your  submission  with  your  tutor  and   make  a  note  of  your  submission  date  and  time  here:   Date:   Time:   Work  submitted  up  to  2  hours  late  will  have  the  mark  reduced  by  10%.  If  this  takes  the  final  mark  below  a   pass  –  a  pass  mark  will  be  awarded.   If  work  is  submitted  after  the  deadline  up  to  5  working  days  it  will  be  marked  and  you  will  be  notified  of  the   mark  but  will  be  recorded  through  the  university  as  a  capped  40%  mark.  Work  submitted  after  the  5  days   will  not  be  marked  and  be  recorded  as  Fail  -­  non  submission  –  If  you  have  an  extension  for  Exceptional   Circumstances  this  will  be  taken  into  account  and  you  be  receive  the  full  grade.       Extenuating  Circumstances  (EC)  claim  forms  and  guidance  notes  are  available  to  down  load  from  i-­city  under   Complaints  and  Appeals.    Claims  must  be  made  7  days  prior  to  the  submission  date  or  directly  after  hand  in  if   issues  arise  on  the  hand  in  day.  In  all  cases  clear  evidence  to  support  the  claim  will  be  needed.