identification of textile fibres through burning and chemical testing

1. ELEMENTS OF TEXTILE
( I D E N T I F I C A T I O N O F T E X T I L E F I B E R S )
&
(UNITS OF TEXTILE MEASUREMENT)
Submitted by:
Aastha Sharma
Submitted to:-
Ms. Paramita sarkar

2. INTRODUCTION
 A number of methods are available for characterization of the
structural, physical, and chemical properties of fibers. Various
methods are used for fiber identification like microscopic methods,
solubility, heating and burning method, density and staining etc. End-
use property characterization methods often involve use of laboratory
techniques which are adapted to simulate actual conditions of average
wear on the textile or that can predict performance in end-use.

3. TYPES OF TEST
The Non technical Test
• FEELING TEST
• BURNING TEST
The Technical Test
• MICROSCOPIC TEST
• CHEMICAL TEST

4. BURNING TEST( N O N - T E C H N I C A L )
 To recognize the composition of fabrics by the burning test
,the sample of fiber, yarn of fabric should be moved slowly
towards a small flame and the reaction to heat carefully
observed .One end of the sample should be put directly into
flame to determine its burning rate and characteristics. The
burning odor should be noted and the characteristics of the
ash such as amount ,form, hardness and color should be
examined

5. FIBERS WHEN
APPROACHING
FLAME
WHEN
IN FLAME
AFTER
REMOVAL
FROM
FLAME
ASH ODOUR
Cellulose
Cotton
Flax
Lyocell
Rayon
Does not fuse or
shrink from
flame
Burns with light
gray smoke
Continue to
burn, afterglow
Gray, feathery,
smooth edge
Burning paper
Protein
Silk
Wool
Curls away from
flame
Burns slowly May self-
extinguish
Crushable black
ash
Burning hair
Acetate Melts and pulls
away from flame
Melts and burn Continues to
burn and melt
Brittle, black
hard bead
Acrid, harsh,
sharp odour
Acrylic Melts and pulls
away from flame
Melts and burn Continues to
burn and melt
Brittle, black
hard bead
Chemical odour
Glass No reaction Does not burn No reaction Fibre remains None
Modacrylic Melts and pulls
away from flame
Melts and burns Self-
extinguishes,
white smoke
Brittle, black
hard bead
Chemical odour

6. Nylon Melts and pulls
away from
flame
Melts and burn May self-
extinguish
Hard gray or tan
bead
Celerylike
Olefin Melts and pulls
away from
flame
Melts and burn May self-
extinguish
Hard tan bead Chemical odour
PLA Melts and pulls
away from
flame
Melts and burns
with slight
white smoke
May self-
extinguish
Hard tan or gray
bead
Slightly acrid
odour
Polyester Melts and pulls
away from
flame
Melts and burns May self-
extinguish
Hard black bead Sweet odour
Spandex Melts but does
not pull away
from flame
Melts and burns Continues to
melt and burn
Soft black ash Chemical odour
FIBRES WHEN
APPROACHING
FLAME
WHEN
IN FLAME
AFTER
REMOVAL
FROM
FLAME
ASH ODOUR

7. Cotton Fibre Linen Fibre Silk fibre
Wool fibre Acetate Fibre Acrylic fibre
Nylon Fiber Polyester Fiber Rayon Fiber

8. CHEMICAL TESTS ( T E C H N I C A L T E S T S )
 The test involves treating the fibers in certain solvents for
identifying them. The technical test is becoming difficult to conduct
as most of the manufactured fibers and their blends are chemically
similar. There is no individual chemical or solvent test for separating
or identifying the fibers in combinations.

9. FIBRE SOLUBLE IN
Cotton 70% sulphuric acid, room temp, 20 mins
Viscose 60% & 70% sulphuric acid, room temp, 20 mins
Flax 70% sulphuric acid, room temp., 20 mins
Wool Sodium hypochlorite 5%, room temp, 20 mins
Polyester M- crasol, 100 C, 5 mins
Nylon Formic acid, room temp. OR
M- cresol at 100C ,5 mins
Olefin M-cresol, 100C, 5 mins
Acrylic Dimethylformamide(DMF) 90C, 10 mins
Aramid Insoluble in above solvents

10. Textile fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics are measured in a multiplicity of units. Fabric, cloth
typically produced by weaving, knitting or knotting textile fibers, yarns of threads, is
measured in units such as momme, thread count, ends per inch and picks per inch
Ends per inch (e.p.i)
Ends per inch are the number of warp threads per inch of woven fabric. In general, the
higher the ends per inch, the finer the fabric is. It is commonly used by weavers who must
use the number of ends per inch in order to pick the right reed to weave with; it varies on
the pattern to be woven and the thickness of thread. And the number of ends per inch in a
piece of woven cloth varies depending on the stage of manufacture.
UNITS OF TEXTILE MEASUREMENT

11. Picks per inch (p.p.i)
Picks per inch is the number of weft threads per inch of the woven fabric. A pick is a
single weft thread, hence the term. In general higher the picks per inch, the finer the
fabric is and as the ends per inch is used by the weavers picks per inch is also used by
them for picking the right reed to weave with; it varies on the pattern to be woven
and the thickness of thread. And similarly the number of picks per inch in a piece of
woven cloth varies depending on the stage of manufacture.
The EPI and PPI of any fabric can be calculated with the help of a pick glass. It has a
magnifying area of 1inch by 1inch. First one identifies the warp and weft direction
and then put pick glass over the fabric, then by the method of simple counting, EPI
and PPI is established for a fabric.