1. Jute Cotton blended yarn(Jutton) Azmir Latif, MSc in textile Engineering
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Introduction:
The two types of jute/cotton blended yarn whose jute and cotton fibres were
respectively blended at the opening and drawing stages were spun by using the ring &
Rotor spinning technology. Sulphonated jute fibres(Chemically Processed) were
blended with cotton at three different ratios, e g. 50:50, 60:40 and 70:30 for production
of fine yarn and comparatively better ratio have been investigated. The plain woven
fabrics were prepared by sulphonated jute-cotton yarn. The set of warp and weft
blended yarns was done on the one up and one down principle. The physico-
mechanical properties of blended yarn and fabrics were studied and compared with
that of jute yarn, cotton yarn and fabric.
Recently many attempts have been made to produce fine jute blended yarn with other
textile fibres. Jute fibre, a natural composite of cellulose, hemicelluloses and lignin,
occupies the second place to cotton in economic importance. In this paper, the two
types of jute/cotton blended yarn whose jute and cotton fibres were respectively
blended at the opening and drawing stages were spun by using the ring spinning
technology. The tensile properties of both blended yarn at gauge lengths from 150 mm
to 500 mm were investigated, and the evenness and imperfections for both blended
yarn were also evaluated. The results show that the draw frame blended yarn was of
better quality than the opener blended yarn. The breaking tenacities of both blended
yarn increased with the decrease in the gauge length. The equations derived from two-
parameter Weibull distribution and based on experimental strength at length of 300
mm can predict the breaking strength of both blended yarn accurately. The scale effect
study indicates that the opener blended yarn strength decreased more sharply than
draw frame blended yarn as the gauge length increased.
This work reports the successful outcome of attempts to manufacture 30, 40, 50, 60,
80 tex rotor spun yarn using modified jute with cotton fibers blending at 50:50 ratio.
The present paper is concerned with the effect of rotor variables such as opening roller
speed, rotor speed and yarn linear density on the properties of jute-cotton blended
yarn. The results show that yarn tenacity and elongation% at break increases with the
increase in opening roller speed up to 8700 rpm and then start reducing, while the
unevenness, imperfections (IPI) value of the yarn decreases. The yarn tenacity
decreases and unevenness & imperfection value increases with the increase in rotor
speed. The results also reveal that tenacity and elongation% increases with increasing
the linear density of blended yarn.

2. Jute Cotton blended yarn(Jutton) Azmir Latif, MSc in textile Engineering
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3. Jute Cotton blended yarn(Jutton) Azmir Latif, MSc in textile Engineering
Page3Jute Cutting:
Jute is a natural and long fibre. For the produce cotton-jute blended yarn, jure fibres
should be staple form. That‟s way jute fibre will be cutting by jute cutting machine
which contain circular knife. It is most essential for the blending with cotton fibres.
Jute cutting is the lower part of the long jute fiber. Cut the fiber at 2-3 inch. It is cut by
round cutter .The lower part is a moist and hard fiber, which is called jute cuttings in
Bangladesh and India (Commonly called Jute Butts or Tops elsewhere). Jute Cuttings
are lower in quality, but have commercial value to paper, worsted yarn, and other fiber
processing industries. White jute is better for blending with cotton.

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Chemical Processing:
In softening process jute morahs are made soft and pliable. Two methods are used for
softening; use of softening machine and use of jute good spreader. Generally an
emulsion plant with jute softener machine is used to lubricate and soften the bark and
gummy raw jute. The emulsion plant consists of gear pump, motor, vat, jet sprayer,
nozzles, emulsion tank and the jacket. In this softening process jute becomes soft and
pliable and suitable for carding.
In this section also bleaching operation apply on the jute fibres. Bleaching operating
done by the soda ash, lisapol, detergent and bleaching powder or hydrogen per oxide.
Then the fibres wash properly. After then the fibres dry by the dryer machine or sun
light.
Sulphonated jute fibre, cotton (collected from local market), sizing agent (starch, wax
and china clay).Jute fibres were sulphonated with sodium sulphite in presence of
ethylene diamine (EDA )
Chemical Processing Unit:

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For bleaching of jute fiber Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium silicate, Soda ash, Softener
&Hydrogen Peroxide is used. The bath capacity is 30 kg. This make chemically
white and soft of jute fiber.
Drying Unit:
In this unit chemically treated Jute fiber is dried. Temperature is 60-70C for
30-45 minutes. There is also a Hydro extractor which is used to remove
excess water from jute fiber before drying.
Fiber Opening Unit:
Chemically processed Fibers are open by this machine. After open this fiber
is it seem like to cotton fiber.

6. Jute Cotton blended yarn(Jutton) Azmir Latif, MSc in textile Engineering
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Blow Room:
Jute & cotton fibers are blended in Blow Room unit .Previous four processes (Jute
Cutting Chemical Processing Chemical Processing Unit Drying Unit Fiber Opening)
Unit are only for jute then jute fibers are prepared for blending with cotton. Blow
room is the starting of the spinning operation where the fibre is opened, cleaned,
mixed, micro dust removed and evened thus passed to carding machine without
increasing fibre rupture, fibre neps , broken seed particles and without removing more
good fibres. The basic functions of blow room are opening, cleaning, dust removal,
blending and evenly feeding the material on the card. Jute and cotton mixed by hand
50 kgs and 50kgs.This machine is 4 blender m/c.
Objectives of blow room
1. To open the compressed bales of fibers
2. Remove dirt and dust, broken leaf, seed particles or any other foreign impurities
from the fibers
3. To transfer the opened and cleaned fibers into a sheet form of definite width
uniform weight per unit length which is called lap.
4. To roll the lap of predetermined length into a cylindrical shape around a lap pin.
5. To transfer the lap from the lap pin to a lap rod to a suitable and feed it to the
subsequent m/c (carding).

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8. Jute Cotton blended yarn(Jutton) Azmir Latif, MSc in textile Engineering
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Functions of Blow Room
1. Opening
o Opening is the first operation within the blow room in which the goal is
always a high degree of openness of material with gentle treatment and a
fiber loss as less as possible.
o Opening is the first operation it means, tearing apart the compressed and
matted cotton until it is very much loosened and separated into small tufts
with a gentle treatment, and a fiber loss as small as possible.
o Opening is also related to cleaning as where is opening there is
alsocleaning.
2. Cleaning
o Cotton contains up to 18% trash in most cases. To clean the material it is
unavoidable to remove as much fiber as much waste.
o Therefore it is necessary to measure the amount of the waste removed and
its composition. As it is of high importance also called cleaning
efficiency.
o The cleaning efficiency always has to be optimized and not maximized,
since the fiber quality (short fibers, neps) as well as fiber loss is always
negatively affected by maximum trash removal.
3. Dust removal
To extract the contamination in the cotton such as leaf, stone, iron particles,
jute, poly propylene, colored fibers, feather and other foreign material from
cotton by opening and beating.
o An often underestimated task of the blow room line is the removal of
dust. However, it is as important as the removal of impurities.
o Dedusting in the blow room happens by air suctioning only, either
between the machines, e.g. by dust cages, dust extractors, etc., or within
the machine by normal air separation.
o Every blow room machine must be capable of extracting dust, so that
special dedusting machines should be needed.
o The efficiency depends not only on the devices but also on the size of the
flocks. The smaller the flocks, the higher is the efficiency.
4. BlendingMixing
Mixing: It is generally meant as the intermingling of different classes of fibers
of the same grade e.g. USA Pima grade2, CIS
Blending: IT is meant as the intermingling of different kinds of fibers or
different grade of same fibers e.g. polyester & cotton, Viscose & cotton.
o Blending of fiber material is an essential preliminary in the production of
a yarn.

9. Jute Cotton blended yarn(Jutton) Azmir Latif, MSc in textile Engineering
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o Fibers can be blended at various stages of the process. These possibilities
should always be fully exploited, for example, by transverse doubling.
o However, the starting process is one of the most important stages for
blending, since the components are still separate and therefore can be
metered exactly and without dependence upon random effects.
o A well-assembled bale layout and even (and as far as possible,
simultaneous) extraction of fibers from all bales is therefore of paramount
importance.
Objectives of mixing or blending
 Economy
 Processing performance
 Functional properties
5. Even feed of material to card
To uniform feeding to the next stage such as carding machine.
6. Recycling the waste material
Carding:
Carding is one of the most important operations in the spinning process as it directly
determines the final features of the yarn, above all as far as the content of neps and
husks are concerned. There are many objectives of the carding process and these can
be summarised as:
 Opening the tufts into individual fibres;
 Eliminating all the impurities contained in the fibre that were not eliminated in
the previous cleaning operations;
 Selecting the fibres on the basis of length, removing the shortest ones;
 Removal of neps;
 Parallelising and stretching of the fibre;
 Transformation of the lap into a sliver, therefore into a regular mass of
untwisted fibre.
The carding operation is carried out by the card, a machine that in practice is a system
of rotating organs, mobile and fixed flats, covered with steel spikes that go by the
name of wiring. It is a good idea to know what the wiring and its functions are before
going onto a description of the card.
The fibrous material is found between the two wired elements which, by moving, act
on the fibre in an alternate manner: first they trap it then they remove it. Depending on

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the layout of the teeth, the direction travelled and the speed of the devices, two
conditions are possible, called:
1. Carding position which is obtained when the teeth of the wired elements are
inclined in an opposite direction and their movement occurs with a certain speed
and in a direction that permits a reciprocal grasp of the fibre and then the
disentangling of the neps and elimination of trash and dust.
2. Position of cleaning or brushing , which is obtained, on the other hand, when the
devices have converging teeth and their movement occurs with such a speed and
in such a direction to permit the passing of fibre from one organ to another.
There are different types of cylinder wiring, in particular:
 rigid wiring, for rotating parts;
 elastic clothing, for mobile flats;
 clothing for fixed flats.

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The most common on the machine are the wiring type. They are made up of a steel
wire with sharp cutting teeth, the sawtooth like edge of the wiring is hardened in order
to better resist wear caused by the abrasive action of the fibres. The base of the wiring
is thicker than the toothed parts, both to guarantee support to keep the teeth in a
vertical position, as well as to prevent lateral contact between the teeth and to permit
the necessary momentary penetration of fibre into the wiring.
Drawing Frame:
Draw frame is a machine for combining and drawing slivers of a textile fiber (as of
hemp for rope manufacture or cotton for spinning) . Drawing is the operation by which
slivers are blended, doubled and leveled. In short staple spinning the term is only
applied to the process at a draw frame.
In drawing slivers are elongated when passing through a group of pair rollers, each
pair is moving faster than previous one.
Actions involved in Draw Frame
Drafting: It is the process of increasing length per unit weight of sliver. It is mainly
due to peripheral speed of the rollers.
Doubling: The process of combing two or more carded sliver into a single form is
called doubling. In draw frame m/c generally six slivers are fed to convert into one i.e.
six doubling.
Drawing: In the cotton industry the term is applied exclusively to processing on the
draw frame, where the operation is one of doubling and drafting. Drawing= Drafting +
Doubling.

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Tasks of Draw frame
• Equalizing
• Parallelizing
• Blending
• Dust removal
Equalizing: One of the main tasks of draw frame is improving evenness over short,
medium and especially long terms. Carded slivers are fed to the draw frame have
degree on unevenness that cannot be tolerated in practice and slivers from the comber
contain the “infamous” piecing. It is obscured by draw frame.
Equalizing is always performed by a first process, namely doubling and can optionally
also be performed by a second process, namely auto leveling. The draft and the
doubling have the same value and lie in the range of 6 to 8.
Parallelizing: To obtain an optional value for strength in the yarn characteristics, the
fibers must be arranged parallel in the fiber strand. The draw frame has the tasks of
creating this parallel arrangement. It fulfills the task by way of the draft, since every
drafting step leads to straightening the fibers.
Blending: In addition to the equalizing effect, doubling also provides a degree of
compensation of raw material variation by blending. Their results are exploited in
particular way in the production of blended yarns comprising cotton or synthetic
blends. At the draw frame metering of the individual components can be carried out
very simply be selection of the number of slivers entering the machines.

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Dust Removal: Dust is steadily becoming a greater problem both in processing and
for the personnel involved. It is therefore important to remove dust to the greatest
practical extent at every possible point within the overall process.
Dust removal can only be carried out to a significant when there are high levels of
fiber. Since a large function the smallest particles adhere relatively strong to the fibers.
High performance draw frame is equipped with appropriate suction removal systems;
more than 80% of the incoming dust is extracted.
Simplex:
In yarn manufacturing system, simplex frame is situated after the comber. The sliver
which is produced from the comber that is thicker and it is not suitable to feed into the
ring frame directly to produce yarn. For this reason, drawn sliver is treated before
entering into the ring frame. The commonly used simplex machine for cotton is flyer
frame or speed frame. There are three basic steps in the operation of the roving frame
– drafting, twisting and winding. These three basic steps are exactly the same as the
basic steps required in spinning.
The machine where the sliver is subjected to one or more attenuating process and the
attenuated sliver receives a small amount of twist and is then wound on bobbins
suitable for creeling at next process.
In this process drawn sliver is input and fine roving is output. The roving is feed into
ring frame for yarn production. It is noted that, simplex is essential for the production
of cotton yarn in case of ring spinning by ring spinning system

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Other names of simplex machine:
a) Fly frame.
b) Roving frame.
c) Speed frame.
Objects or functions of speed frame:
 Attenuation of drawn sliver to form roving of required count by drafting.
 Insert small amount of twist to give required strength to roving.
 Wind the twisted roving onto the bobbin.
 Build the roving in full length of bobbin in such a form which will facilate
handling, transfer and feeding to ring farme.
The main operations or functions of simplex machine:
Various types of objectives are achieved by simplex machine. Followings are the main
functions of simplex machine –
 Creeling: Creeling is the first objective of simplex frame arrangement. By the
creeling, small amount of draft is applied to the drawn sliver.
 Drafting: Attenuation of drawn sliver to produce required amount of roving by
drafting. Thick drawn sliver is converted into thin roving by drafting system.
 Twisting: Small amount of twist is inserted in the drafted stand of fibres by the
twisting. The amount of twist is very low.
 Building: Build the roving on to bobbin such a form which will facilate
unwinding, handling and transfer to the next process.
 Winding: Produced or twisted roving is wound on the bobbin by the winding
process. This bobbin is feed to the ring frame and this bobbin accelerates the
next process. So, it is important.
 Doffing: It is the optional function of speed frame. Doffing could be done
manually or automatically.
So, simplex frame plays an important role in the spinning process. Various types of
yarn faults could be appear for the wrong drafting or twisting. For this reason, the
operator should be careful during the process.

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Ring Frame:
The ring spinning machine was first invented in 1828 by the American Thorp. In
1830, another American scientist, Jenk, contributed the traveler rotating on the ring.
There have been many development has done in ring spinning machine for the last
years but the basic concept remained unchanged.
Some other modern spinning systems:
1. Open end rotor spinning system
2. Air Jet spinning system
3. Friction spinning system
4. Wrap spinning system
Advantage of Ring Spinning System:
1. Any type of material (fibre) can be spun
2. Wide range of count can be processed
3. It delivers a yarn with optimum characteristics.
4. Idealized twisting system
5. It is uncomplicated and easy to operate
6. Higher yarn strength can be achieved
Operations involved in ring frame:
1. Creeling
2. Drafting
3. Twisting
4. Winding
5. Building
6. Doffing

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Function of ring frame:
1. Draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved
2. Twist the drafted strand to form yarn of required count and strength
3. Winding the twisted yarn on to the bobbin for suitable storage, transportation
and further processing.
Drafting system:
A) Regular drafting without apron-
1. Conventional 3 over 3 drafting system
2. Improved drafting system
B) Apron drafting
1. Single Apron- a. Saco Lowel Drafting, b. Improved system
2. Double apron- a. Casablanca‟s drafting system, b. SKF drafting system
Various components of Ring Frame
Thread guide:
It is a yarn guide made by bending a wire named snail wire. Snail wire may be
different in types like p-shaped wire
Functions:
1. Its main function is to guide the yarn thus maintain the security of the yarn.
2. It prevents yarn collision with adjacent yarns.
3. It surface should be smooth to prevent rubbing of yarn. Rubbing creates yarn
hairiness.
Spindle:
The spindle is the main part of a ring frame which helps in twisting, winding
simultaneously. Sometimes, spindle referred as „heart of spinning‟. It hold the bobbin,
somewhat loosely but tight enough to prevent slippage.

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Spindle
Functions of spindle:
1. Twisting and winding is performed by spindle.
2. It holds the bobbin.
3. The capacity of ring frame is mainly determine by the number of spindle.
Different parts of spindle:
The parts of spindle are given below:-
 Spindle blade
 Wharve
 Bolster
 Lock
 Bearing
 Bolster cage
The last three parts help the spindle to fix at the right place and work properly.
Ring:
The ring are made of low carbon steel i.e. soft steel or ceramic in the form of a bar
which modeled into ring shaped either by bending and welding or by pressing by
means of dies and then the stock is given the desired projection term as ring flange.
Function:
There are some important functions of ring. These are given below:-
1. Ring guides the circular run of the traveler.
2. It also helps in twisting by means of running of the traveler.
3. It also acts as a track of traveler.
Figure: Ring cups
Classification of ring:
A) According to origin or element:- i. Metallic ring, ii. Ceramic ring
B) According to number of flange:- i. Single flange ring, ii. Double flange ring
Relation between bobbin dia and Ring dia:

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B= 0.39R
Where B= Bear bobbin dia and R= Ring dia.
Flange:
The path of traveler on the ring is called flange. It may be single or double.
Flange width:
The term flange width express the difference the outer diameter and inner diameter of
a ring. Flange width is expressed in flange no.
Flange width= (Flange no. + 3)/32 inch
Flange no. Flange width
(mm)
1 3.2
1.5 3.6
2 4
Traveler:
Traveler is the most tinny and simple mechanical element in ring frame which carries
the most important function like simultaneous twisting, winding, thread guide etc.
Function of traveler:
Traveler does some important in ring frame. These are mentioned below:-
1. Twisting on the drafted strand of fiber.
2. Winding of the yarn on the bobbin.
3. Maintain winding tension of the yarn by the frictional resistance between the
ring and the traveler.
4. It acts as a guide for yarn on the way to be wound on the bobbin.
Figure: Travelers
Traveler speed and its effects:
Traveller does not have a drive of its own. It drags along behind the spindle. Since the
spindle rotates at a high speed, a high contact pressure is generated between the ring
and traveler during winding, mainly due to centrifugal force. The pressure introduces
strong frictional forces which in turn lead to significant generation of heat. It is the

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important problem of ring/traveler.
The front roller delivers a certain length of yarn. That‟s why length wound up must
corresponds to the difference in peripheral speed of traveler and spindle. The speed
difference is due to lagging of the traveler relative to the spindle.
Parts of traveller:
There are three parts of a traveller. They are given below:-
 Bow
 Horn
 Flange
Types of traveller:
Travelers can be classified into following two ways:-
A) According to shape:-
 C – traveller
 Elliptical traveller
B) According to the X-section of wire:
 Round traveller
 Flat traveller
 Semi-circular traveller
Specification of traveller:
A ring traveler is specified by the followings-
1. Traveller no.: 1, 2, 3, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 etc.
2. Cross section of the wire and shape
3. Flange no.
4. Surface finish- Stainless steel made,Carbon finish,Nicle finish etc.
5. Type of materials etc.

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Winding:
Winding is the process of transferring yarn or thread from one type of package to
another to facilitate subsequent processing. The rehandling of yarn is an integral part
of the fiber and textile industries. Not only must the package and the yarn itself
be suitable for processing on the next machine in the production process,
but also other factors such as packing cases, pressure due to windingtension, etc., must
be considered. Basically, there are two types of winding machines: precision winders
and drum winders. Precision widers, used primarily for filament yarn, have a traverse
driven by acam that is synchronized with the spindle and produce packages with a
diamond-patterned wind. Drum winders are used principally for spun yarns; the
package is driven by frictional contact between the surface of the package and the
drum.
Types of Winding
A.Precision Winding
B.Non Precision Winding
A.Precision Winding
By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or
near parallel manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with
maximum amount of yarn stored in a given volume.
Features
 Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse
 Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages
 Package contains more yarn
 Package is less stable
 The package is hard and compact
 The package is dense

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 Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard
 The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner
B.Non Precision Winding
By this type of winding the package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the
package at appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give
stability to the package. The packages formed by this type of winding are less dense
but is more stable.
Features
 Only one coil is used to make this packages
 Cross winding technique is used
 The package density is low
 Minimum number of yarn is wound
 The package formed is soft and less compact
 The stability is high
 Flanges are not required
 The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy
 The packages formed have low density
Reeling:
Modern Reeling Machine

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Bundling:
In purchasing, bundling is the practice of marketing two or more products or services
in a single package with one price. Jute yarn is bundle in a hank form. Hank weight is
4.5- 5 kgs.
A hank is a long loop of yarn that you‟ll usually spot twisted into a cute bundle, like
this:
Jute Bundle weight is 4.5-5 kgs
You can‟t knit/crochet directly from a hank, you‟ll need to use a ball-winder, a
nostepinne or your hands to wind a cake or ball (see below) that you can work from.

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Since a hank is just yarn looped around, it‟s how spinners and dyers work with their
yarn, and it‟s a real time (read: cost) savings to sell it to the consumer that way. I‟m
not actually sure if it‟s a time saving-issue for big-production-factories, but a hank still
has a „classy‟ feel to it, so it contributes to a yarn looking high-end. Finally, from a
yarn-store perspective, hanks lie neatly on the shelf, making display easy.
Beam Warping Machine
The latest beam beam warping machines have a very simple design, which results in
higher speed & consequently in output increase.
Main Parts Beam Warping Machine:
Fig: Beam warping machine
 Creel
 Expanding comb
 Pressure roller
 Beam
Working Principle of Beam Warping Machine:
In beam warping, the yarns are withdrawn from the single-end yarn packages on the
creel & directly wound on a beam. Direct warping is used in two ways:
1. Beam warping can be used to directly produce the weaver‟s beam in a single
operation. This is especially suitable for strong yarns that do not require sizing
such as continuous filaments & when the number of warp ends on the warp
beam is relatively small. This is also called direct beaming.
2. Beam warping is used to make smaller intermediate beams called warper‟s
beams. These smaller beams are combined later at the sizing stage to produce
the weaver‟s beam. This process is called beaming. Therefore, for if the
weaver‟s beam contains 10,000 warp ends, hen there would be-say – 10
warper‟s beams of 1,000 ends each. If this weaver‟s were to be made an one

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stage, the creel would have to have 10,000 yarn yarn packages, which is
impossible to manage.
Rapier Loom:
A rapier loom is a shuttleless weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through
the shed of warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger-like carriers called
rapiers. One type has a single long rapier that reaches across the loom‟s width to carry
the filling to the other side. Another type has two small rapiers, one on each side. One
rapier carries the filling yarn halfway through the shed, where it is met by the other
rapier, which carries the filling the rest of the way across the loom.
Fig: Rapier loom
FEATURES :

 High quality weaving machine suitable for the production of high quality
fashion fabrics of natural and synthetic yarns at low cost.
 Sturdy Machine Frame and Unique drive resulting minimum maintenance. The
main parts run in anti-friction bearing.
 Rigid well design beat-up gives excellent fabric.
 PLC base control panel.
 Stable weft insertion.
 Versatile Fabric weaving upto 500 gsm.
 Unique drive gives lowest maintenance.
Projectile Loom:
The projectile weaving machine made its appearance in the market at the
beginning of the 50‟s and is today still used in the whole world. Thanks to its
steady renovation and to the use of advanced electronic systems as well as of
microprocessors for the supervision and the control of the various devices, this
machine is characterized by a good productivity level (450 rpm and 1050 m/min
of inserted weft) and by high operational reliability. It is established especially

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in the field of machines with high reed width.
General operation
In this weaving machine the weft insertion is carried out by small clamp
projectiles (fig. 45), which number depends on the weaving width and which
with their grippers take out the weft yarn from big cross-wound bobbins and
insert it into the shed always in the same direction. The projectiles work in
sequence, that is they are launched in succession. They run therefore one after
the other, describing in the space a continuous, endless route, as if they would
be stuck on a conveyor belt.
The first projectile takes and holds in its back the weft in form of a tail; then,
pushed by the release of the projectile thrower, it passes through the shed and
deposits the weft inside the warp; subsequently the projectile falls and is
collected by a device which, by passing under the array of the warp threads,
takes it at reduced speed back to the starting point.
Projectile guide
The limited weight and the reduced volume of the projectile make aprojectile
guide necessary . The projectiles therefore do not come into contact with the
threads, but run inside a sort of channel composed of the thin prongs of a rake,
which form reminds a semiclosed hand. This rake goes up from under the
threads at the moment of the projectile launch and has of course to fall back
lowering itself at the slay stroke. To enable this movement, the rake is secured
on the slay and is positioned very close to the reed; the rake‟s laminas are not in

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contact with the warp, or touch it very lightly because the reed opens them the
way. The latest models of the projectile machine have been equipped with new
types of guide dents, which are divided and placed in alternate position, in order
to reduce the stress on weft and warp threads. This permits to use in warp even
very delicate yarns as for instance untwisted or entangled yarns and at the same
time to cope with high quality requirements.
Projectile launching mechanism
The operational principle of the launching mechanism is the following a torsion
bar 2 is anchored, at one side, to the fixed point 1, whereas the free end is
connected by a toothed groove to the percussion shaft 3. The percussion lever 9,
which is fixed to the percussion shaft 3, follows per force the movements of this
last and consequently of the free end of the torsion bar 2. During its rotation, the
cam 8 shifts the knee-joint lever 4+5, so that the torsion bar 2 is put under
tension by the percussion shaft 3 and the percussion lever 9 is put in launching
position (the scheme shows the launching mechanism with the torsion bar in the
phase of maximum tension). The torsion bar 2 remains under tension until the
roller 7 slides along the bend of lever 5. The particular shape of this lever makes
so that the roller, when leaving it, presses its end, thus giving the starting point
to the torsion bar for the articulation of the knee-joint lever 4+5. Subsequently
the torsion bar 2 returns suddenly to its rest position imparting a strong
acceleration to the projectile 11 through the percussion shaft 3 , the percussion
lever 9 and the percussion element 10. The oil brake 6 serves to damp the
stroke.
The projectile‟s stroke time, that is the insertion time, is adjusted by modifying
the torsion angle of
the bar through an angular shift of the anchorage point, which has proper
adjustment windows.
Insertion cycle of the projectile machine
a) The projectile 1 is put in launching position; the weft is hold at its end by the
weft carrier 2 and is controlled by the weft tensioner 3, by the weft brake 4 and
by the eyelet 7 situated in proximity of the feeding bobbin 8;
b) The weft carrier 2 gets open after the projectile clamp has got hold of the end
of the weft thread;
c) The projectile 1 is launched and crosses the shed dragging with itself the
weft, while the weft tensioner 3 and the weft brake 4 operate in a way as to
minimize the stress on the yarn (the critical phases are particularly the initial
acceleration phase and the final stop phase in the collector box);
d) The projectile 1 on the one hand and the weft carrier 2 on the other take up

27. Jute Cotton blended yarn(Jutton) Azmir Latif, MSc in textile Engineering
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the right position to build up the selvedge, while the tensioner arm opens to
adjust the weft tension;
e) The weft carrier 2 closes while the selvedge clamps 5 get hold of the weft
thread on both sides and the projectile clamp is opened to release the weft end;
f) The thread is cut by the scissors 6 on the launching side, while the projectile 1
is placed in the transport chain;
Loading of the torsion bar: a) torsion bar 2 in rest, knee-joint lever 4+5 in
articulate position; b) loading phase; c) torsion bar in tension and kniejoint lever
in stable position, before the launching control by roller 7.
g) The weft is beaten by the reed, while the weft carrier 2 moves back to its
initial position and the weft tensioner 3 opens further to recover the thread piece
and to keep it under tension. The projectile is brought back to the launching
zone;
h) The selvedge needles 9 insert the weft ends into the subsequent shed (tuck-in
selvedge), while a new projectile is placed in launching position.
Difference between Blended Fabrics and Union Fabrics
Blended Fabrics are made up of blended yarns. Blended yarns contain fibers of
different composition in fixed proportions. Thus a blended fabric may be made of
polyester/cotton in 67:33 ratios in both warp and weft.
Union fabrics are the fabrics where in the fibre content of warp is different from that
of weft. Thus a Silk/Viscose union fabric may have silk in the warp and viscose in the
weft yarn.
Rotor Spinning:
Commercial rotor spinning began in 1967 in Czechoslovakia. Since that time, many
researchers have studied factors that affect rotor spinning of fine yarns. At the present,
the break-even point, i.e., the economical count beyond which rotor spinning becomes
more expensive than conventional ring spinning, is becoming ever finer, and is now
approaching Ne 30 (the English system is used for yarn count). The alternative count
system, tex or gram/kilometer, is given by tex X Ne = 590.6.
The purpose of this research was to study the interaction between five principal factors
known to influence rotor spinning of fine cotton yarns. The factors investigated were
raw material, preparation, sliver weight, count, and twist. The study was set up as a
factorial design with two replications.

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Fig: Rotor spinning machine
Rotor spinning process is fully different from carded or combed spinning. Rotor yarn
is coarser than carded or combed yarn. The count of rotor yarn is very low. Most of
rotor yarn count is below 20‟s but highest yarn count may be 40‟s .
The general effect of varying any one of these factors on rotor spinning is already well
understood. By examining their interactions, however, it was deemed possible to
acquire information on a number of other troublesome questions which are
enumerated as follows:
1. Is combing beneficial generally, or only at fine counts, or only with long-staple
cottons?
2. Is a long-staple cotton generally advantageous, or only at low twist?
3. When a low-micronaire cotton is used, under what conditions, if any, does the
higher number of fibers in the yarn cross-section offset the tendency to form neps? Is
the net effect of a fine cotton a function of yarn count?
4. To what extent is very high draft undesirable, i.e., should finer slivers be used in
spinning fine yarns?
5. Are there high-order interactions, e.g., does fine yarn call for a long combed fiber
with a low sliver weight?
Flow Chart of Rotor Yarn Spinning
Fiber/Bale → Blow Room → Lap/Chute
↓

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Lap/Chute → Carding → Sliver (Carded)
↓
Carded Sliver → 1st Drawing frame → Drawing Sliver
↓
Drawing Sliver → 2nd Drawing frame → Drawing Sliver
↓
Drawing Sliver → Rotor Spinning → Rotor Yarn
↓
Winding
↓
Reeling
↓
Bundling
↓
Bailing
The Rotor:
The rotor is the main spinning element of the rotor-spinning m/c. Yarn quality,
character working performance of yarn productivity, & costs etc. all depend chiefly on
the rotor. The most important parameters of the rotor that exert influence are
 The rotor form
 The groove
 The rotor diameter
 Rotational speed along with
 The rotor bearing
 Co-efficient of friction b/w the fiber & the rotor wall.
 The air-flow conditions inside the rotor

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 Liability to fouling
Rotors are replaceable element in the m/c.
Tasks of the Rotor Spinning Machine:
The basic tasks of the rotor spinning machine are
 Opening (& attenuating) almost to individual fibers (fiber separation).
 Cleaning.
 Homogenizing through back doubling.
 Combining i.e. forming a coherent linear strand from individual fibers.
 Ordering (the fibers in the strand must have an orientation as far as possible in
the longitudinal direction).
 Improving evenness through back-doubling.
 Imparting strength by twisting
 Winding.
Principle of Rotor Spinning:
The general principle of rotor spinning is shown in Figure. The input fiber strand is a
drawn sliver. A sliver may have more than 20,000 fibers in its cross-section. This
means that a yarn of 100 fibers per cross-section will require a total draft of 200. This
amount of draft is substantially higher than that of ring spinning. Drafting in rotor
spinning is accomplished using a comber roll (mechanical draft) which opens the input
sliver followed by an air stream (air draft). These two operations produce an amount
of draft that is high enough to reduce the 20,000 fibers entering the comber roll down
to few fibers (5-10 fibers). In order to produce a yarn of about 100 fibers per cross-
section, the groups of few fibers emerging from the air duct are deposited on the
internal wall of the rotor and a fiber ring is formed inside the rotor.
The total draft in rotor spinning is, therefore a combination of true draft from the feed
roll to the rotor (in the order of thousands) and a condensation to accumulate the fiber
groups into a fiber ring inside the rotor. The total draft ratio is the ratio between the
delivery or the take-up speed and the feed roll speed. This should approximately
amount to the ratio between the number of fibers in the sliver cross-section and the
number of fibers in the yarn cross-section.

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Rotor Spinning process
Consolidation in rotor spinning is achieved by mechanical twisting. The torque
generating the twist in the yarn is applied by the rotation of the rotor with respect to
the point of the yarn contacting the rotor navel. The amount of twist (turns per inch) is
determined by the ratio between the rotor speed (rpm) and the take up speed
(inch/min). Every turn of the rotor produces a turn of twist, and a removal of a length
of yarn of 1/tpi inches.
The winding operation in rotor spinning is completely separate from the drafting and
the twisting operations. The only condition here is that the yarn is taken up at a
constant rate. This separation between winding and twisting allows the formation of
larger yarn packages than those in ring spinning.
Sequence of Operation:
The feed stock in form of either card sliver or draw frame sliver from first or second
passage drawing. The sliver runs from a can beneath the spinning unit into the feed
trumpet. A feed roller grips the sliver & pushes it over the feed through into the region
of the opening roller. A spring ensures firm clamping of the sliver by urging the
trough towards feed roller. In the event of an end-break, the feed unit is stopped either
by stopping the feed roller rotation or by pivoting the in feed trumpet, in each case
sliver feed stops automatically. The signal pulse causing this effect is generated by a
yarn-sensing arm.
In the in conventional spinning processes, the fiber strand at in feed is maintained as a
coherent structure & is merely attenuated during spinning. In rotor spinning, the fiber
strand is opened to individual fibers. This task is performed mainly by the opening
roller. This small roller which is clothed with needles or saw teeth, combs through the
fiber beard projecting from the nip between the feed roller & the tough it transports the
plucked fibers to the feed tube. An air flow is needed for further transport of the fibers
to the rotor. This is generated by central fan that draws air by suction through leads
from each rotor box. To facilitate generation of this under pressure, the rotor box must
be hermetically sealed as far as possible. The suction stream in the feed tube lifts the
fibers off the surface of the opening roller & leads them to the rotor. In the course of

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this movement, both the air & the fibers are accelerated because of the convergent
form of the feed tubes. This represents a second draft following the nip trough/
opening roller & giving further separation of the fibers. Moreover partial straightening
of the fibers is achieved in this air flow. A third draft arises upon arrival of the fibers
on the wall of the rotor because the peripheral speed of the rotor is several times as the
speed of the fiber. This is a very important feature because it contributes significantly
to good orientation of the fibers. The last straightening of the fibers occurs as the fiber
slides down the rotor wall into the groove under the influence of the enormous
centrifugal forces work within the rotor.
Speed Interrelationship:
Normal & maximum revolutions & speeds are
 Rpm of opening roller :5000 -10000 rpm
 Rpm of rotor up to 100000 rpm
 Delivery speed: up to 200m/min.
Technical Data of Rotor Spinning Machine:
 Number of spinning positions per m/c up to 220
 Count range 12- 125 Tex (5 – 50 Ne)
 Draft 25- 400
 Speed of rotation of opening roller 6000- 11000 rpm
 Rotation speed of rotor up tp 120000 rpm
 Rotor diameter 32 -65 mm
 Delivery speed ( m/ min) up to 200
 Package mass up to 5 kg
 Angle of taper 2° - 4° 20‟
 Winding angle 29° – 45°
properties of Jute cotton blend yarn:
Physical properties of Jute cotton blend yarn:
It is seen from the Table 1 that 50/50 blends of sulphonated jute and cotton give yarn
having its physical properties nearly close to 100 % cotton indicating better
compatibility of the mixed component fibres. The tenacity of the blended yarn
containing 60 % sulphonated jute fibres decreased to 10.0 being about 9.6 % reduction
and its CSP decreased to 1590 being about 6.02 % reduction. It did not indicate
deterioration of the weaving characteristics of the yarns, because the yarn quality
expressed as lea CSP is expected to be 1250-1300 for power loom warp. Moreover,
the increase of yarn rigidity is not very much significant on being the sulphonated jute
fibre mixed up with cotton even upto 70% in comparison with rigidity that develops
with jute fibre mixed up at all percentage with cotton. It is also seen from the Table I
that the flexural rigidity of sulphonated jute yarn is 11.94mN mm, i.e. 60 % higher and

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CSP is 1027, i.e. 45 % lower than that of 100 % cotton yarn. These results indicate
that the production of fine yarn and fabric is not possible from 100 % sulphonated jute
fibre because the yarn quality expressed as lea CSP is expected to be 1250-1300 for
power loom warp. It is also observed from the Table I that comparatively (from
economic point of the view ) better sulphonated jute-cotton blended fibre is produced
when sulphonated jute fibre is blended with 40 % cotton.
Mechanical properties of Jute cotton blend yarn:
The mechanical properties of the fabric samples woven with the sulphonated jute-
cotton blending yarn have been shown in Table III. The light weight fabric was made
with blended yarns preferably with 30 tex yarn taking from a lot of 60/40 blended as
shown in the Table III. The mechanical properties of the fabric was determined to
observe their serviceability in the practical usages and to as certain their suitability as
jute blended cotton fabric. Shirting and suitings are usually made from cotton yarn or
the blended yarns thereof. The use of jute fibre after having sulphonated in the field of
making such fabric has been a good possibility. The results shown in Table III indicate
that the softness and handling characteristics represented by the bending length and
flexural rigidity of the blended fabrics are very much comparable to those of cotton
fabric with identical fabric structure. The bending length and flexural rigidity of the
fabric samples prepared from sulphonated jute-cotton blended yarn were 1.82 cm and
8.25 mN mm, respectively and which are only 0.3 and 4.75 points higher than those of
cotton fabric. It is evident from the Table III that the tensile strength of the blended
fabric is 20.0 kg which is very near to 23.1 kg strength of cotton fabric. It signifies that
the durability and serviceability of the blended fabrics under any sort of stress and
deformation duringtheir use are not much less than the cotton fabrics. The sulphonated
jute-cotton blended fabrics draped very elegantly in almost the same way the cotton
fabrics draped over a circular support. Table III shows that the drape co-efficient of
the blended fabric is 38.0, which is 2.88 point higher than that of cotton fabric.

34. Jute Cotton blended yarn(Jutton) Azmir Latif, MSc in textile Engineering
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Source from: Bangladesh J. Sci. Ind. Res. 42(3), 281-286, 2007, A Study on Sulphonated Jute-cotton Blended Yarn
and Fabrics and their Characteristics
Dyeing & Treatment of Juton Fabric
Industrial chemistry is performing on the different chemical treatments of jute fiber for
diversified uses such as chemical modification of jute fiber for blending with other
fibers specially cotton, for upgrading jute fiber usability by chemical treatment. Large
amount of jute fiber may be used by proper selection of chemical treatment in proper
place of requirement.
Pretreatments i.e. desizing, scouring, bleaching etc. are very much essential
requirements for sample preparation in proper dyeing and printing purposes. To
produce diversified sophisticated colorful printed jute products, soft and smooth
surface of jute fabrics must be maintained by singing, softening, and calendaring
before printing after pretreatment.
Fastness properties of dyed & printed jute & juton samples vary with different dyes,
environmental condition, demanding situation etc. The depth of dye shade in the
sample initially produced brilliant results but the brightness of the color shade of dyed
jute samples became faded at different extents when came in contact with water,
sunlight and mechanical rubbing. There are different types of printing such as screen
printings, block printing, spray printing, heat transfer printing etc. which are suitable
for the good printing on jute fabrics.
Diversified Product by Juton Yarn:
Bangladesh sits at an advantageous position to tap into the growing market for Jute
Diversified Product (JDP). According to recent Jute Diversification Promotion Center
(JDPC) and Jute and Textile Product development Center (JTPDC) research, there are
approximately 400 JDP producers in Bangladesh which mainly operate on sub-
contract basis for the export market.
Traditionally jute has been used to manufacture packaging materials like hessian,
sacking, ropes, twines, carpet backing cloth etc. In order to overcome the declining
market of these conventional products of jute, new technologies have been evolved for
bulk use of jute, as a raw material in the production of high value added and price
competitive intermediaries or final products. A host of innovative new products have
been developed with high value-addition such as home textiles, jute composites, jute

35. Jute Cotton blended yarn(Jutton) Azmir Latif, MSc in textile Engineering
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geo-textiles, paper pulp, technical textiles, chemical products, handicrafts and fashion
accessories etc. These products for new, alternative and non-traditional use of jute are
generally termed as Diversified Jute Products.
Among the various diversified jute products, floor coverings, home textiles, technical
textiles, geotextiles, jute nonwovens, jute reinforced composites, pulp & paper,
particle boards, shopping bags, handicrafts, fashion accessories, apparels etc. have
potential for wider use and application.

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Fig: Jute-cotton blended & diversified Jute product
Conclusion:
For this lab report we are visit in the BJRI (Bangladesh Jure Research Institute).
JTPDC departments are performing on the requirement to solve the different problem
of jute quality. Jute cotton blended yarn has high strength with comfort over low price.
Commonly 50:50, 60:40 is popular blend for juton yarn & Fabric Mainly, basic
chemical analysis of jute fiber, chemical modification of jute fiber, chemical finishing
of jute samples, dyeing & printing of jute fiber /fabric have been done for upgrading
of jute samples. Finally make diversified product from jute with cotton. In this report
we know about the different operational sector for the producing cotton-jute blended

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yarn, Fabric. Also understand about the different product, which produce by the
cotton-jute blended fabric.