SEMINAR ON TEXTILE
FINISHING
Aastha Singh
12tt001
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INTRODUCTION
 Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing
of fiber, fabric, or clothing.
 Finishing involves subjecting the textile material to
different physical and chemical treatments, so as to
impart required functional properties to it.
 For example wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric
is necessary to make it crease free or wrinkle free.
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IMPORTANCE
 To improve fabric attractiveness.
 To improve serviceability.
 To give desirable qualities to fabric.
 To improve the feel of the fabric.
 To cover faults in the original fabric.
 To improve wearing qualities of fabric by making it shrink or
crease resistant.
 To set garment shape. E.g. Durable press.[4]
 To import special properties to the fabric for special end uses such
as waterproofing, flame-proofing etc.
 To strengthen the fabric by coating or laminating.
 To produce novelty effects e.g. organdie fabrics by parchment
sing
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CLASSIFICATION
ACCORDING TO FUNCTION
Aesthetic
finishes
Functional
finishes
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Functional Finishes improve
the performance
properties of the fabric ;
like durability, strength etc.
 Antimicrobial/Antiseptic
 Crease resistant
 Durable Press
 Flame Resistant
 Mothproof
 Shrinkage Control
 Soil Release
 Water Proof/Repellant
Aesthetic Finishes modify the
appearance and /or hand or
drape of the fabrics.[5]
 Mercerization
 Napping And Sueding
 Shearing
 Softening
 Stiffening
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MERCERIZATION
 Mercerization is a treatment for cotton that gives
fabric a lustrous appearance.
 Alters the chemical structure of the cotton fiber.
The structure of the fiber changes from alpha-
cellulose to beta-cellulose.
 Results in the swelling of the cell wall of the
cotton fiber. This causes increases in the surface
area and reflectance, and gives the fiber a softer
feel.
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AESTHETICFINISH

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AESTHETICFINISH
 Improves dye absorbency .
 Mercerization becomes necessary for darker
shades as it improves dye absorbency.

NAPPING
 It is a mechanical finish.
 Fibers are raised from woven/knitted fabrics by
rotating, bristled, wire covered brushes.
 Overall effect is raised fibers from fabric surface.
 Napped fabrics have softer handle.
 Better insulation properties due to more air
entrapment.
 Mainly used as blankets, winter clothing.
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AESTHETICFINISH

1: roller
2: rollers equipped with hooks
3: fabric
4: nib cleaning brushes
5: fabric tension adjustment
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AESTHETICFINISH

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Napped fabrics

SUEDING
 It is a mechanical finish.
 Similar to napping.
 Produces a soft, suede-like surface.
 Sand paper like material is used instead of
rotating wire covered cylinder.
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AESTHETICFINISH

Suede fabrics
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AESTHETICFINISH

STIFFENING
• Forming a film on the surface of a fiber influences
the touch of the product and has a stiffening
effect.
• Stiffening agents
1. Starches – finishing of cotton cloth. Ex: potato ,
wheat, corn.
2. Dextrines – used for dyed and printed fabrics. No
undue effect on the dye or print.
3. Natural gum – mainly used in printing as well as
finishing process.
4. Resins
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AESTHETICFINISH

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Acid stiffening
 Fine yarn cotton fabrics can be finished to be
both stiff and transparent by this process.
 It involves rapid immersion in sulphuric acid,
followed by immediate neutralization in sodium
hydroxide.
 The finish is permanent. This finish is also known
as Organdi finish or Parchmentisation.
AESTHETICFINISH

SOFTENING
 Required for more pleasant hand and better
drapeability.
 Fabrics are harsher and stiffer because of their
construction or due to some prior finishing process.
 Softening can be done by either mechanical or
chemical process.
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AESTHETICFINISH

Mechanical softening machine
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AESTHETICFINISH

Chemical softeners
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AESTHETICFINISH

CREASE RESISTANCE
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FUNCTIONALFINISH
Cotton, rayon and flax are more
susceptible to wrinkle OR crease.
Crease occurs due to the hydrogen bonds
of the cellulosic molecules in the
amorphous region.
Due to application of heat or moisture,
the hydrogen bond breaks and new
hydrogen bond occurs at new dimension.
Therefore creasing can be reduced if the
hydrogen bond formation can be
reduced.

 Creasing can be controlled by physical deposition of
a suitable polymeric material in amorphous region.[1]
 Or the hydroxy groups of adjacent macromolecules
may be reacted with bifunctional agents.
 Reacting cotton with acidified formaldehyde.
 CRF finishes are resin finishes.
 The fabric is saturated with resin and then the resin
is cured at temperatures of about 360°F.
 The fabric becomes stiffer, less absorbent and more
resistant to wrinkling.
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

ADVANTAGES:
 Improves comfort.
 Decreases pilling. [2]
 Increases ease of maintenance.
 Betters dimensional stability.
 Chemical treated cotton fabric dry more easily.
DISADVANTAGES:
 Decreased breaking strength( up to 28%).
 Decreased tearing strength.( up to 19%)
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

SOIL RELEASE
 What is soiling of textiles?
 Dirt or soil get attracted to textile material.
 Development of static charge electricity in
hydrophilic textiles, making them prone to soiling.
 Re-deposition of soil during washing.
 Hydrophobic materials are not wetted properly
during laundering.
 Mainly observed in polyester fabrics.
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

Advantages of soil release:
 Making the fibers more absorbent
(hydrophilic).
 Permitting better wettability for improved soil
removal.
 Done by using hydrophilic finishes.
 Facilitates soil release during washing.
 Prevent soil redeposition.
 Also, reduces static charge by maintaining
moisture on the fabric surface.
 Thus soil attraction during wear can be
reduced.
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

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EFFECT OF SOIL RELEASE FINISH
FUNCTIONALFINISH

ANTIMICROBIAL
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•Antimicrobial finish protect fabric from attack
of microbes and bacteria and are one of the
most important finishes.
•Cause of concern due to action on non target
microorganisms and water pollution.
FUNCTIONALFINISH

 Natural fibers such as cotton are more susceptible
than synthetics.
 Their porous hydrophilic structure retains water,
oxygen and nutrients, providing a perfect
environment for bacterial growth.
 The enzymes that degrade cotton are cellulase and
cellobiase and these reduce strength and produce
foul smell and color.
 Smelling spots and even holes are created on the
exposed fabric.
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

NATURAL PLANTS WHICH ARE USED
IN MAKING ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH
- CHITIN
- SERICIN
- NEEM EXTRACT
- NATURAL DYES
- ALOEVERA
- TEATREE
- EUCALYPTUS OIL
- AZUKAI BEANS
- TULSI LEAVES
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

CHITIN
 Chitin, is a natural, non-toxic , microbial resistant and
biodegradable polymer.[3]
 Chitin is one of the most abundant polysaccharides
found in nature , derived from marine shells and
mollusks.
 Chitin is applied on to the fabric by padding the
cotton fabric with a mixture of chitin and citric acid
followed by high temperature curing.
 The fixation of chitosan citrate solution onto cotton
fabrics followed by dry- cure process.
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

NEEM
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Photographs of (a) untreated and (b) neem seed
extract (5% w/v) treated cotton/PET blend (against
B.Subtilis bacteria)[6]
FUNCTIONALFINISH

 Neem has been recognized as one of the most
promising sources of compounds with insect
control, antimicrobial and medicinal properties.
 Work has been reported on its textile application as
an antimicrobial agent.
 Few patents based on the use of neem oil as an
antibacterial agent has been reported.
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

Aloe Vera extract
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Above compound is present in aloe vera and is
responsible for the anti microbial property of aloe
vera.
FUNCTIONALFINISH

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ANTIBACTERIAL ACTIVITY OF 75%
ALOE VERA GEL ON COTTON FABRIC
FUNCTIONALFINISH

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DEO2 FINISHED FABRIC
FUNCTIONALFINISH

 DEO2 arrests the growth of fungi and bacteria.
 Keeps fabric fresh and anti-odour even after day-
long wearing in humid and warm climate.
 Long-lasting (50 home washes) Anti-Microbial
property.
 Anti-Odor
 Avoids spread of infections from microbial
infestation.
 Reduces staining and degradation of fabrics by
providing better-UV protection.
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

FLAME RESISTANCE
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•Flame retardants are materials that have
the quality of inhibiting or resisting the
spreading of fire.
• It stops the fire from traveling along the
length of the fabric and decreases the fire
development rate , providing valuable extra
time to make an escape.
FUNCTIONALFINISH

 Fabric burns because of pyrolytic decomposition
of the fiber substrate.
 The products of this decomposition include
combustible gases, non combustible gases and
carbonaceous character.
HOWTO FLAME RETARDANTS WORK?
 Fire retardants interfere with combustion at
different stages of the process.
The different mechanisms are:
-ENDOTHERMIC DEGRADATION
- DILUTION OF FUEL
-THERMAL SHIELDING
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

- DILUTION OF GAS PHASE
- GAS PHASE RADICAL QUENCHING
Flame retardants interfere with flame at different
stages to cool the fabric and keep the temperature
below ignition temperature.
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FUNCTIONALFINISH

CONCLUSION
Fabric finishes play a major role in the garment. These
finishes are derived from both natural as well as
manmade sources. Finishes improve appearance of
fabric along with its performance and hence are divided
on the basis of aesthetic and functional properties. These
finishes come from both natural as well as manmade
sources. Finishes decrease crease, improve flame
retardation, provide softness and stiffness, decrease
pilling, raise fibers from fabric surface and also provide
protection against microbes, insects and bacteria.
Overall finishes play an important role in determining
cost and improving quality of fabric.
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REFERENCES
1. Dr.V. A . SHENAI,TECHNOLOGYOFTEXTILE
FINISHING
2. INDIAN JOURNAL OF fiber &TEXTILE RESEARCH
VOL. 34, JUNE 2009, PP 183-186
3. ALY A S, HASHEM A & SAYED HUSSEIN S, INDIAN
JOURNAL OF fiber &TEXTILE RESEARCHVOL. 29,
2004, P.NO 218
4. HTTP://TEXTILELEARNER.BLOGSPOT.IN/
5. WWW.fiber2FASHION.COM/INDUSTRY.../5/FLAM
E-RETARDANT-FINISHES1.ASP
6. M JOSHII, SWALI, S RAJENDRAN – JOURNALOF
APPLIED POLYMER SCIENCE, OCTOBER 2007,
VOL 106, PG-793-800
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