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Meaning of Luxury



           Author: Jacky Cheung
                      2011 Sept
CHINA LUXURY MARKET OVERVIEW

             China has surpassed the U.S., following Japan, as
             the 2nd largest country in luxury spending

             There were a total of 875,000 individuals with
             personal wealth over RMB10M
             • 55,000 of them with over RMB100M; 1,900 with
               over RMB1B

             80% of luxury goods / services purchasers aged
             under 45
             • Vs. Japan 19%, the U.S. 30%

             Gucci Group has recorded a 42% growth in China in
             2008

              Source:    VIP Magazine (2010 Aug)
AND THE MOST LIKED LUXURY BRANDS…
          Category:
            Hotel                           Category:
                                             Apparel
       Category:
Super Luxury Sport Cars
                                                                   Category:
                                                                    Jewelry




                        Category:
                      Luxury Sedans    Category:
                                      Accessories


                                                                  Category:
                                                                   Watch

                                            Source:     VIP Magazine (2010 Aug)
LET’S LOOK AT WHAT “LUXURY” MEANS IN WORDS...


       Oxford English- Chinese Dictionary
 / n 1 [U] (regular use and enjoyment of) the best
    and most expensive food and drink, clothes,
                  surroundings, etc


             豪华; 奢华; 奢侈:
WHAT IS IMPLIED IF IN CHINESE?

           豪                                   华
•person of extraordinary ability        magnificent;gorgeous
•hero                                   beautiful
•powerful and rich                      flashy; extravagant
bold and unconstrained; forthright      splendor



           奢                                    侈
      extravagant                    arrogant;selfconceited
      excessive                      excessive
      exaggerate;magnify             indulge
                                     enlarge;aggravate;extend;
      surpass
                                     broaden
TO SUMMARIZE...

  豪        华         奢         侈
  Be bold, magnify & exaggerate
   what you have, we don’t care
    even if that is unnecessarily
              excessive

    And then show-it-off, tell the
   world we’ve got it, even if that
   could be considered arrogant
TO SUMMARIZE...

  豪        华        奢        侈
   When it comes to the culture of
     LUXURY, it contradicts some
  fundamental Chinese values, e.g.
  be modest中庸, be in harmony和
    谐 , blending in with the rest
       (people, surroundings)

       BUT WHY??????
TAKE A LOOK AT THE FUNDAMENTAL
   HUMAN / CULTURAL VALUES FIRST...

      ME                                                           US
   Individualism                                               Collectivism

Luxury starting point –                                   Chinese culture starting
 personal indulgence                                               point
                              Luxury in China...

                              ME VS. THEM
             The fulfillment of INDIVIDUALISTIC value / desire / vanity
              with a REFERENCE / BENCHMARKING to the GROUP
A closer look of “Me vs. Them” in Chinese context…
THE RUBBER BAND THEORY
   Totally “US”              ME VS. THEM                  Totally “ME”

  The “Rubber Band” that     To “show-off” means       But NOT to BREAK away,
  binds a group together –   how far you can STRECH    detach from the group.
  representing shared        within this rubber band   Otherwise, it is “Weird”,
                                                       “Strange”, “Ostentatious”
  cultural values and
  lifestyle preferences
THE KEY IMPLICATION…
Aspiration to own luxury is NOT only
driven by personal desire, or “self-
indulgence”, in Chinese culture, it is
just as important (if not more
important) that it is driven by
COVETOUSNESS 攀比
It is still originating from Collectivism,
but in a rather twisted manner to what
we usually expect; we move from the
need to blend in, to the desire to
stretch
AN AD WE SAW SHARING THE SAME INSIGHT…



                           “As a gift that comes with
                           this car...

                           JEALOUS EYES”




                     “ATTENTION FROM THE CROWD”
HOW IMPORTANT CAN THIS COVETOUSNESS
      (COLLECTIVISM) BACKGROUND BE…?




The 2 largest markets for Luxury are both
from a strong collectivism culture – the
Japanese even scrutinize others to gauge
how much OT work they do to judge their
income and job security; a core reason for
the proliferation of those 24 hour cafes!

  Next?
TO MARKETERS , ADVERTISERS, AND
      RESEARCHERS…

It is NOT just to understand what
         she wants, likes



    It is just as important to
   understand her FRAME OF
            REFERENCE:
  -What is the rubber band like
 that binds the group together?
     - How far could this be
             stretched?
MARKETING NOTION #1


KNOWN but not owned
                       By default, luxury means exclusivity –
                           only a few could own / enjoy



But even though the MASS may be unable to
access the brand, it has to be WELL KNOWN
  to THEM (remember the rest within the
         rubber band – their peers)
MARKETING NOTION #1


KNOWN but not owned
     DEFINITELY
     LUXURIOUS!!!
     Even a 5 year
     old child can
     name it



               “Drink Louis XIII with Fan Zhi Yi (China
               National Football Team Leader)”

               The first time when China entered the World Cup
               Finals (2002), the government and national
               football team celebrated using Louis XIII, which
               was widely reported in newspapers
MARKETING NOTION #1


KNOWN but not owned


     Hear the consumer voice directly as
      he comments on luxury watches
                (next page)
MARKETING NOTION #2
A STORY TO TELL – be legendary
- be it true or not (even rumors will do)
             A conversation with respondent perhaps self-explanatory:
                  Moderator: Why LV is luxurious in your mind?”
                  Respondent: You know what, it is said that when they
                  found the sunken Titanic, the first thing they dig out
                  from the ruins was an LV suitcase!
                  Moderator: Wow!...(but so what...???)
                  Respondent: Even more, when they open that suitcase,
                  there was no single drop of water found inside
                  (amazing water proof function)!!!
                  Moderator: Wow, wow!! How did you know that?
                  From where have you heard of this?
                  Respondent: mmm....cannot remember exactly, may be
                  my friends, on the Internet...?
                  Moderator: Oh!? Is it true? Do you believe that?
                  Respondent: er...???? (Who cares????)
MARKETING NOTION #2
A STORY TO TELL – be legendary
- be it true or not (even rumors will do)


           Panda Cigarette – the most expensive brand of
           cigarette . Only PUBLICLY launched after 2000.

           But all smokers “KNEW” this brand long before –
           there was a MYTH shared by all smokers that our
           great leader Mr. Deng Xiao Ping only smoked a special
           cigarette that was MADE EXCLUSIVELY FOR HIM, and
           that was called Panda

           But NO ONE have ever seen it nor tried it before 2000.
MARKETING NOTION #2
         A STORY TO TELL – be legendary
         - be it true or not (even rumors will do)
                                      No sexy story or story of intrigue yet? Don’t worry.
                                      At least get yourself into a “TOP   10
Refer to a website called “China      BRANDS” ranking.
Top 10 Brands” (www. China-
10.com) in which you can find         -No one cares what are the evaluation criteria.
numerous top 10 brand rankings,
anything one could, and even          -No one cares who conducts the evaluation behind
could not, imagine. Phones,            the ranking.
laptops for sure, and even building   -No one cares how you define the competitive set.
materials like concrete, electrical
wiring is also included with a
ranking of top 10 brands.             All they care about is the result – “YOU ARE
                                      NAMED AS TOP 10”
MARKETING NOTION #2


A STORY TO TELL – be a “Top 10”
               At least in the Luxury Watch
             market, these “Top 10” rankings
               are highly influential to the
             extent that it is a prerequisite to
             consider a brand worth owning.

            “We just search “Top 10 watches”
             via a search engine before we
                          buy”
MARKETING NOTION #3
        BE BOLD WITH YOUR PRICE
        – Highest possible, even out of normal frame of reference
        (remember luxury implies magnifying, excessive)

How to justify the price? Don’t worry in a culture that shares the following wisdom:

“1 cent more means 1 per cent better一分钱,一分货”
    Price              Value
“Cheap things can’t be good便宜没好货”
    Price                 Value
“Expensive things have their reasons for being expensive贵的一定有它的道理”
  Price                    Value

                 Where,

                           Price defines value,
                                                       Instead of value justifying price
MARKETING NOTION #3

BE BOLD WITH YOUR PRICE



     An episode from the Chinese Movie
     (Da Wan) to further illustrate in the
                  next page
WATCH OUT!
LOW KEY LUXURY低调的奢华
      What!? I thought you just said to be as flashy,
      high profile as possible!!!


          Yes, yes…be patient…
          Things aren’t so straight
          forward, are they?
          Let us explain…
IT ALL GOES BACK TO THEIR FRAME OF
  REFERENCE, THEIR RUBBER BAND

 Entry Level “Richies”      As China becomes stronger and
(Personal Liquid Asset      stronger economically, we also
                            see that the “Richies” in China
      RMB1M+)               nowadays can be further
                            stratified.

       Real “Richies”
                            For those Entry Level “Richies “:
   (Personal Liquid Asset
        RMB10M+)            • Their frame of reference is still the
                              general mass, from where they
                              have recently emerged.
     Super” Richies” –
        Billionaires        • Brands with high profile amongst
                              the general mass is still necessary.
IT ALL GOES BACK TO THEIR FRAME OF
  REFERENCE, THEIR RUBBER BAND
                                 But for those Real & Super “Richies”, they have
                                 left the general mass for a long time.

      Entry Level “Richies”      They start forming small social circles of
(Personal Liquid Asset RMB1M+)   comparable affluence levels, i.e. their rubber
                                 band is re-defined.

                                 Within these particular social circles, there is
                                 almost no barrier to attain most of the luxury
                                 brands the seek.
       Real “Richies”
   (Personal Liquid Asset        Consequently, those “popular” luxury brands
        RMB10M+)                 (eg Cartier, Gucci, Audi) are just “standard”
                                 items.

       Super “Richies” –         -To stretch this new rubber band, they need to
         Billionaires            go for those low awareness but niche, low key
                                 brands (eg Harry Winston, Bentley) – avoid
                                 being “me-too”.
Having said that, “low
awareness” only refers to the
publicity amongst the “general
mass” – it should still be
famous, high profile within the
niche circle of reference (hear
the consumer voice directly in
next page)
thank you

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Meaning of luxury (2011) web

  • 1. Meaning of Luxury Author: Jacky Cheung 2011 Sept
  • 2. CHINA LUXURY MARKET OVERVIEW China has surpassed the U.S., following Japan, as the 2nd largest country in luxury spending There were a total of 875,000 individuals with personal wealth over RMB10M • 55,000 of them with over RMB100M; 1,900 with over RMB1B 80% of luxury goods / services purchasers aged under 45 • Vs. Japan 19%, the U.S. 30% Gucci Group has recorded a 42% growth in China in 2008 Source: VIP Magazine (2010 Aug)
  • 3. AND THE MOST LIKED LUXURY BRANDS… Category: Hotel Category: Apparel Category: Super Luxury Sport Cars Category: Jewelry Category: Luxury Sedans Category: Accessories Category: Watch Source: VIP Magazine (2010 Aug)
  • 4. LET’S LOOK AT WHAT “LUXURY” MEANS IN WORDS... Oxford English- Chinese Dictionary / n 1 [U] (regular use and enjoyment of) the best and most expensive food and drink, clothes, surroundings, etc 豪华; 奢华; 奢侈:
  • 5. WHAT IS IMPLIED IF IN CHINESE? 豪 华 •person of extraordinary ability magnificent;gorgeous •hero beautiful •powerful and rich flashy; extravagant bold and unconstrained; forthright splendor 奢 侈 extravagant arrogant;selfconceited excessive excessive exaggerate;magnify indulge enlarge;aggravate;extend; surpass broaden
  • 6. TO SUMMARIZE... 豪 华 奢 侈 Be bold, magnify & exaggerate what you have, we don’t care even if that is unnecessarily excessive And then show-it-off, tell the world we’ve got it, even if that could be considered arrogant
  • 7. TO SUMMARIZE... 豪 华 奢 侈 When it comes to the culture of LUXURY, it contradicts some fundamental Chinese values, e.g. be modest中庸, be in harmony和 谐 , blending in with the rest (people, surroundings) BUT WHY??????
  • 8. TAKE A LOOK AT THE FUNDAMENTAL HUMAN / CULTURAL VALUES FIRST... ME US Individualism Collectivism Luxury starting point – Chinese culture starting personal indulgence point Luxury in China... ME VS. THEM The fulfillment of INDIVIDUALISTIC value / desire / vanity with a REFERENCE / BENCHMARKING to the GROUP
  • 9. A closer look of “Me vs. Them” in Chinese context… THE RUBBER BAND THEORY Totally “US” ME VS. THEM Totally “ME” The “Rubber Band” that To “show-off” means But NOT to BREAK away, binds a group together – how far you can STRECH detach from the group. representing shared within this rubber band Otherwise, it is “Weird”, “Strange”, “Ostentatious” cultural values and lifestyle preferences
  • 10. THE KEY IMPLICATION… Aspiration to own luxury is NOT only driven by personal desire, or “self- indulgence”, in Chinese culture, it is just as important (if not more important) that it is driven by COVETOUSNESS 攀比 It is still originating from Collectivism, but in a rather twisted manner to what we usually expect; we move from the need to blend in, to the desire to stretch
  • 11. AN AD WE SAW SHARING THE SAME INSIGHT… “As a gift that comes with this car... JEALOUS EYES” “ATTENTION FROM THE CROWD”
  • 12. HOW IMPORTANT CAN THIS COVETOUSNESS (COLLECTIVISM) BACKGROUND BE…? The 2 largest markets for Luxury are both from a strong collectivism culture – the Japanese even scrutinize others to gauge how much OT work they do to judge their income and job security; a core reason for the proliferation of those 24 hour cafes! Next?
  • 13. TO MARKETERS , ADVERTISERS, AND RESEARCHERS… It is NOT just to understand what she wants, likes It is just as important to understand her FRAME OF REFERENCE: -What is the rubber band like that binds the group together? - How far could this be stretched?
  • 14. MARKETING NOTION #1 KNOWN but not owned By default, luxury means exclusivity – only a few could own / enjoy But even though the MASS may be unable to access the brand, it has to be WELL KNOWN to THEM (remember the rest within the rubber band – their peers)
  • 15. MARKETING NOTION #1 KNOWN but not owned DEFINITELY LUXURIOUS!!! Even a 5 year old child can name it “Drink Louis XIII with Fan Zhi Yi (China National Football Team Leader)” The first time when China entered the World Cup Finals (2002), the government and national football team celebrated using Louis XIII, which was widely reported in newspapers
  • 16. MARKETING NOTION #1 KNOWN but not owned Hear the consumer voice directly as he comments on luxury watches (next page)
  • 17. MARKETING NOTION #2 A STORY TO TELL – be legendary - be it true or not (even rumors will do) A conversation with respondent perhaps self-explanatory: Moderator: Why LV is luxurious in your mind?” Respondent: You know what, it is said that when they found the sunken Titanic, the first thing they dig out from the ruins was an LV suitcase! Moderator: Wow!...(but so what...???) Respondent: Even more, when they open that suitcase, there was no single drop of water found inside (amazing water proof function)!!! Moderator: Wow, wow!! How did you know that? From where have you heard of this? Respondent: mmm....cannot remember exactly, may be my friends, on the Internet...? Moderator: Oh!? Is it true? Do you believe that? Respondent: er...???? (Who cares????)
  • 18. MARKETING NOTION #2 A STORY TO TELL – be legendary - be it true or not (even rumors will do) Panda Cigarette – the most expensive brand of cigarette . Only PUBLICLY launched after 2000. But all smokers “KNEW” this brand long before – there was a MYTH shared by all smokers that our great leader Mr. Deng Xiao Ping only smoked a special cigarette that was MADE EXCLUSIVELY FOR HIM, and that was called Panda But NO ONE have ever seen it nor tried it before 2000.
  • 19. MARKETING NOTION #2 A STORY TO TELL – be legendary - be it true or not (even rumors will do) No sexy story or story of intrigue yet? Don’t worry. At least get yourself into a “TOP 10 Refer to a website called “China BRANDS” ranking. Top 10 Brands” (www. China- 10.com) in which you can find -No one cares what are the evaluation criteria. numerous top 10 brand rankings, anything one could, and even -No one cares who conducts the evaluation behind could not, imagine. Phones, the ranking. laptops for sure, and even building -No one cares how you define the competitive set. materials like concrete, electrical wiring is also included with a ranking of top 10 brands. All they care about is the result – “YOU ARE NAMED AS TOP 10”
  • 20. MARKETING NOTION #2 A STORY TO TELL – be a “Top 10” At least in the Luxury Watch market, these “Top 10” rankings are highly influential to the extent that it is a prerequisite to consider a brand worth owning. “We just search “Top 10 watches” via a search engine before we buy”
  • 21. MARKETING NOTION #3 BE BOLD WITH YOUR PRICE – Highest possible, even out of normal frame of reference (remember luxury implies magnifying, excessive) How to justify the price? Don’t worry in a culture that shares the following wisdom: “1 cent more means 1 per cent better一分钱,一分货” Price Value “Cheap things can’t be good便宜没好货” Price Value “Expensive things have their reasons for being expensive贵的一定有它的道理” Price Value Where, Price defines value, Instead of value justifying price
  • 22. MARKETING NOTION #3 BE BOLD WITH YOUR PRICE An episode from the Chinese Movie (Da Wan) to further illustrate in the next page
  • 23. WATCH OUT! LOW KEY LUXURY低调的奢华 What!? I thought you just said to be as flashy, high profile as possible!!! Yes, yes…be patient… Things aren’t so straight forward, are they? Let us explain…
  • 24. IT ALL GOES BACK TO THEIR FRAME OF REFERENCE, THEIR RUBBER BAND Entry Level “Richies” As China becomes stronger and (Personal Liquid Asset stronger economically, we also see that the “Richies” in China RMB1M+) nowadays can be further stratified. Real “Richies” For those Entry Level “Richies “: (Personal Liquid Asset RMB10M+) • Their frame of reference is still the general mass, from where they have recently emerged. Super” Richies” – Billionaires • Brands with high profile amongst the general mass is still necessary.
  • 25. IT ALL GOES BACK TO THEIR FRAME OF REFERENCE, THEIR RUBBER BAND But for those Real & Super “Richies”, they have left the general mass for a long time. Entry Level “Richies” They start forming small social circles of (Personal Liquid Asset RMB1M+) comparable affluence levels, i.e. their rubber band is re-defined. Within these particular social circles, there is almost no barrier to attain most of the luxury brands the seek. Real “Richies” (Personal Liquid Asset Consequently, those “popular” luxury brands RMB10M+) (eg Cartier, Gucci, Audi) are just “standard” items. Super “Richies” – -To stretch this new rubber band, they need to Billionaires go for those low awareness but niche, low key brands (eg Harry Winston, Bentley) – avoid being “me-too”.
  • 26. Having said that, “low awareness” only refers to the publicity amongst the “general mass” – it should still be famous, high profile within the niche circle of reference (hear the consumer voice directly in next page)