California, Flora of Contrasts

CALIFORNIA-FLORA of CONTRASTSCALIFORNIA-FLORA of CONTRASTS
By Gwen & Phil PhillipsBy Gwen & Phil Phillips
California is a state of contrasts; contrast the northern coast bathed in brilliant spring sunshine with…

…the same coast shrouded in a blanket of fog in mid-summer.

The highest peak in the southern Sierra Nevada reaches almost 14,500ft, yet…

…
…only 100 miles away, in Death Valley, is the lowest point in the USA at 282ft below sea level. Here
the average annual precipitation is less than 2 inches, whereas…

…in the northern hills and mountains it can exceed 100 inches.

The Pacific Ocean forms the whole of the
western boundary.
Next to the coast are the Coastal Mountain
Ranges -- North & South -- and San Francisco
Bay separates the two.
To the east are the Central Valleys -- now
intensely cultivated.
Further to the east is the high Sierra Nevada-
Cascade axis. The Great Basin Desert on the
extreme east has a continental climate, cold and
dry in winter and hot and dry in summer.
To the south there are extensive deserts and to
the north a complex of mountains with high
precipitation.
To the west of the Sierra Cascade axis
(excluding the southern deserts and the northern
mountains), the climate is typically
Mediterranean, mild winters with most of the
precipitation, and away from the coast, hot and
dry summers.
It is in these contrasting geographic and climatic
conditions that the Californian flora is found. Our
objective is to illustrate a few of our favourite
plants, proceeding very loosely from early March
through to late July, remembering that flowering
times will vary according to elevation and from
year to year, as no two seasons are alike.

Initially we shall be searching for early flowering
bulbs in:
1. The North Coastal Range.
2. The western foothills of the Sierra Nevada.
3. The southern end of the Sierra Nevada in the
Greenhorn Mts.
1 2
2
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California is well known for its abundance of bulbous species, many flowering in March and early
April. Here on a serpentine outcrop in the foothills of the North Coast Range was a small colony of
the rare Californian endemic, Fritillaria purdyi.
.

One of many species that is now endangered due
to over collecting in the early 20th
century.

.Serpentine rocks and soils, high in toxic elements, are widespread in northern California, and will only
support the relatively few species that will tolerate these conditions

On the same serpentine vein was Erythronium helenae. Whereas Fritillaria purdyi is
serpentine tolerant, E. helenae is one of California’s 200 or so serpentine endemics.

Flowering some six weeks later on this outcrop was the non-bulbous Lewisia rediviva. Known as
the Bitterroot, this species was first collected on the Lewis and Clark Expedition to the Far West in
1805-6; the genus being named for Meriwether Lewis.

Back to March but still in these foothills, an adobe clay pasture that could be very wet in spring and
bake hard and dry with six inch cracks by mid-summer is the habitat of Fritillaria pluriflora.

This rare and endangered Californian endemic may often be seen
flowering in a couple of inches of water after a wet winter and
spring. Attractive as a plant and….

…also as a close-up. Fritillaria pluriflora known as the Adobe Lily.

.
Eastwards almost into the western foothills of the Sierra Nevada, and growing on old lava rubble is a
tiny form of Dodecatheon clevelandii var. patulum.

One distinctive feature of var. patulum is a yellow or white spot at the base of
each filament, clearly visible in these flowers.

Into the western foothills of the Sierra Nevada and close to the historic gold rush town of Columbia.
Drifts of Erythronium tuolumnense coloured the slopes above a tributary of the Stanislaus River
where placer miners were panning for gold as we photographed.

This California endemic was once thought to be rare. It has now been found in large numbers, but
only within its restricted range -- it is locally very common in the county of Tuolumne.

Erythronium tuolumnense is well known to gardeners, either as a
species or as one of its hybrids (‘Pagoda’ being one) which leads to….

Erythronium californicum which flowers slightly later and to the north-west, particularly in the North
Coastal Range. A selected form of this species is the other parent of ‘Pagoda’.

The selected form being E. californicum ‘White Beauty’, seen here in our garden in
Lincolnshire, England.

A closer shot of E. californicum ‘White Beauty’ with the pink E. revolutum in the background.
Photo – Mike Ireland

Back to the Sierra Nevada and into Mariposa County, which is immediately to the south of Tuolumne
County and a typical habitat of Fritillaria agrestis…….

…another rare and endangered species; most populations are small and threatened by development.

At the southern end of the Sierra Nevada are the Greenhorn Mountains. Flowering in this adobe hill
pasture was the rare and endangered Fritillaria striata.

This endemic is probably now restricted to about twelve sites; simply ploughing the pasture
could easily jeopardise this colony. The term ‘rare and endangered’ applies to many of
California’s bulbous species not only due to change of land use, but gross over-collecting in the past.

ll
The striations of the Striped Adobe Lily are often only evident when the interior of the bell is
examined.All the plants illustrated so far were growing in a Mediterranean climate, and would be subject to
summer drought.

• o
Next there will be a very brief reference to the
California Coast Redwoods, followed by
spring colour south-east of Santa Barbara.
Colour will still be evident as we illustrate the
flora to be found in the vast areas of the semi-
desert and deserts of southern California. The
only location that needs to be marked on this
map is Death Valley, which is indicated by the
white arrow. The others should be apparent
from the text.

Dependent on the high humidity provided by summer coastal fog, groves of the endemic Coast
Redwoods, Sequioa sempervirens, extend intermittently along the coast from San Francisco to the
Oregon border. They are claimed to be the tallest of all living trees, reaching a height of 360 feet. There
is often an extensive fern flora beneath the canopy but few flowering plants, however…

…Trillium ovatum, photographed in but not confined to the Coast Redwoods, is a typical early
flowering species that enjoys the shade of these trees, the winter rainfall, and the fog drip of summer.

Another shade-lover and a close relative of the Trilliums is this west coast endemic,
Scoliopus bigelovii.

This unpleasant smelling California endemic is hardly attractive, but is sometimes seen on the
show bench. Very heavily lined sepals with erect and very narrow petals - Scoliopus bigelovii.

California is famous for its spring colour, which should be at its best in April providing winter rains
have been sufficient. The massed yellow of the ubiquitous Lasthenia californica is punctuated by a
species of Malacothrix, one of the desert dandelions.

If blue is your preferred colour, a sea of the variable Lupinus nanus should be to your liking.
From the wide open spaces to….

…..the edge of woodland with an emerging gentle stream;
suitable for spring flowers that prefer a habitat that is damp
and cool before the heat and drought of summer. Ideal

…the delicate Mimulus bicolor and…

…..Limnanthes douglasii, probably known to
gardeners as the poached egg plant, together with…..

…Nemophila maculata, often called five-spot. This seeded regularly in our garden for number of years.

The semi-desert and desert areas of Southern California often display drifts of colour after favourable
winter rains. Castilleja exserta is in the foreground..

Heading eastwards, this is Walker Pass east of Bakersfield, a classic example of Joshua Tree woodland.
Yucca brevifolia, to name the species, indicates that we are in or near the Mojave Desert.

Typical Yucca flowers and relatively short leaves
compared with the size of the plant. Yucca brevifolia.

I
In the foreground is the ephemeral Linanthus parryae.

Seeds of annuals like this may lie dormant for years until sufficient rain triggers germination.

Spring colour in California would not be complete without the State flower -- the California Poppy --
Eschscholzia californica.

It is widespread throughout the State, from the coast to the foothills, but this is where they grow
in such vast numbers - Antelope Valley in the high desert some 110km north of Los Angeles.

The colour can vary from deep orange to……

…pale yellow. Cultivated varieties often escape and
roadsides are seeded; these both hybridise with wild
strains, leading to complete confusion.

Oenothera deltoides is a very common plant of the south-western semi-desert areas where the
average annual precipitation is about 12 inches. The Joshua Tree again indicates that we are in the
Mojave Desert.

If the Joshua Tree is a good indicator of the Mojave Desert, Opuntia basilaris, the Beaver Tail, is the
most common cactus.

This species is typically spineless, but has instead many tufts of glochids – hair like barbed bristles,
often almost invisible, that easily pierce clothing and skin.

The desert areas of the Southwest support numerous colourful shrubs, of which Senna armata
is one, seen here with ‘cholla woodland’ in the background.

The green stems of this legume are leafless for most of the
year, the leaves having dropped shortly after emerging.

Another legume of this area is Psorothamnus fremontii, with a stand of Larrea tridentata, a
very common shrub that can cover hundreds of square miles of the south-western deserts.

Here are the flowers of the Psorothamnus, sometimes called the indigo bush.

The foliage and flowers of Larrea tridentata, which can recover from extreme drought stress even
when the leaves appear to be desiccated.

On the eastern side (i.e. the far side) of Death Valley…

…..growing in crevices on a cliff in Echo Canyon was …

…the very rare Mimulus rupicola. Described as growing in shaded limestone crevices – crevice,
yes, but shaded, hardly – these would be in direct sunlight for a number of hours each day.

Mimulus rupicola – endemic to the northern Mohave Desert in eastern California.

This slope In the Grapevine Mountains on the eastern side of Death Valley is the habitat of another
rarity of this arid region -- the white bear-poppy. Those on the skyline are just visible.

Arctomecon merriamii is found in small populations in scattered colonies from Death Valley to
south-eastern Nevada. The relatively ordinary poppy flowers are not spectacular, but look at the
foliage, which is ideally suited to conserve moisture in this hot dry desert climate.

Arctomecon californica was once a native of California, but sadly no more. These are growing in
adjacent Nevada; Lake Mead is just over the brow and Las Vegas is 60 miles to the southwest.

Another rare and endangered species, which like the last species is confined to small scattered
colonies, this time in areas around Las Vegas and Lake Mead in Nevada, and a small area in
extreme north-western Arizona, also near Lake Mead.

It is amazing that seemingly delicate plants can survive in these harsh conditions, where it can freeze
in winter and bake in the desiccating heat of summer when the temperature can exceed 40°C.

Before we leave the south, here are three species of Calochortus, a favourite genus of ours. Scattered
across the top of this slope on Mt. Pinos (some 40 miles south of Bakersfield) were plants of
Calochortus invenustus. Not one of the most spectacular species but attractive in a quiet way.

On another slope the more colourful Calochortus venustus found a suitable habitat. The group
within the genus Calochortus with open campanulate flowers are often referred to as Mariposa Lilies
– Mariposa meaning ‘butterfly’.

A third species found these hot dry slopes to its liking – it is Calochortus kennedyi var.
kennedyi . The Mariposas, having comparatively large flowers on very slender stems, often use
shrubs for support as you see here. ‘Calochortus’ means beautiful grass.

The flora of the semi-desert and desert
areas of the south will now give way to
those plants that are at home in the hills
and mountains that straddle the
western section of the northern
California-southern Oregon border
where the annual precipitation can
reach 100”.
These will be followed by a brief
selection from the North Coast Range,
and as the year progresses the
chaparral of the south-western foothills
of the Sierra Nevada will be illustrated.

Nearing the northern border - Viola beckwithii growing in sagebrush scrub in the eastern foothills of
the northern Sierra Nevada.

It is known as the Great Basin Violet -- the Great Basin being, a high cold desert stretching from here
eastwards to the Rocky Mountains. Although this sandy soil was damp from snow melt at the time of
flowering, it would bake hard and dry in summer, and reduce the violet to a dormant underground
rhizome.

The hills and mountains of the western California-Oregon border, an area of high precipitation,
support a fine selection of Pacific Coast Native Irises and Erythronium species that flower in
April and into May. Wild plants pay no respect to an artificial state border, we too have paid little
regard to its strict location.

.
Iris innominata is locally abundant in the Klamath Mountain eco-region. Of the eleven species of
Pacific Coast Native Irises (all native in California) this is one of the most attractive.

The flowers are typically bright golden-yellow although other colours occur within the species. In
addition, hybridisation with the next species, where their ranges overlap, also produces flowers of
varying attractive colours.

Iris douglasiana, a coastal species with a range extending from southern California to central Oregon…

… is a vigorous species and is widely used by horticulturists for hybridisation.

Iris bracteata Iris chrysophylla
Two further examples of species found in this small area.
Natural hybrids only occur where the species’ ranges overlap, whereas in cultivation…

…there is not the restriction of geographical origin. These are examples of Pacific Coast Native
Iris hybrids bred by Jeff Wilson of Lincolnshire.

The majority of the world’s Erythronium species are native in North America, with the greatest
concentration found in this area of northern California and southern Oregon.

Although Erythronium citrinum is endemic to a very small area on this border, it can be found
in large numbers. This picture illustrates the heavy mottling of the leaves evident in some

The closer images illustrate the extremely short lobed stigma of E. citrinum, a useful guide in the
field to differentiate it from the very similar species…

..Erythronium oregonum which has curved and much longer lobes. Their ranges just overlap.

Erythronium hendersonii is another species endemic to a very small area in this region.

At the time of flowering, these plants will be in partial shade which increases as the deciduous oaks
come into leaf. The average rainfall here will be about 100 inches.

Erythronium revolutum has a wider range. It is frequent along the coast in damp and shaded areas
from Mendocino Co., California to southern British Columbia.

Various colour forms exist, but gardeners seem to select those with rich rose-coloured tepals for
cultivation…

…although this plant with just a hint of pink is still most attractive.

And here is a darker form in our garden in England (top left) …

A closer shot of Erythronium revolutum adapting well
to cultivation.

In that same bed were two species of Trillium that are virtually confined to this border area.

Trillium kurabayashii, the sessile species, is restricted to a relatively
small area straddling the border, and to another in the Sierra Nevada.
Some plants have heavily mottled leaves whereas…

….others are scarcely marked. We have no
pictures of T. kurabayashii in the wild.

The other trillium in that picture is the pedicellate Trillium rivale,
which is restricted to an even smaller area on the California-Oregon
border.

The colour of the petals of this western North American endemic is basically white, often with
madder-purple markings of varying degrees of intensity. Compare these markings with …

…these. Unlike the previous species we do have photographs of Trillium rivale in the wild…

…seen here growing in a very wet habitat in the extreme north-west of California. Trillium rivale is
a plant of wet or damp habitats – the specific epithet meaning ‘growing by streams’.

Here are the wild flowers that have much fainter markings than those just seen.

Darlingtonia californica is native to northern California and the western counties of Oregon, where it
forms relatively large colonies in fens, wet meadows, acid bogs, seepage slopes or shallow streams.

Even a plant growing in such numbers can be threatened, in the case of Darlingtonia
californica by logging and drainage of land for agriculture.

This carnivorous plant, usually associated with serpentine soils deficient in necessary nutrients,
has adapted to supplement its nitrogen requirements by capturing and digesting small prey. The
unique flowers often emerge with or before the pitchers that may be slightly suffused with red or…

…be uniformly pale green in colour. Pitchers, responsible for capturing prey, have evolved over time from
simple leaves, and these western North American pitcher plants differ from those in the south-east by
having rather exaggerated hoods and prominent fish-tail appendages. Cobra lily is an apt common name.

Another pitcher plant fen with last season’s pitchers still evident, and in the foreground California’s most
attractive orchid – Cypripedium californicum. It was not surprising to see these plants growing
together as they both appreciate these damp conditions, often in gently flowing or seeping water.

The range of this rare Lady’s Slipper Orchid is restricted to northern California and south-
western Oregon. Although loss of habitat often results in species such as this becoming rare
and endangered, these attractive orchids have also suffered from long-term over collecting.

But it was surprising to see plants here. There is a Darlingtonia fen immediately above the road and
rains have brought soil and its contents, namely Cypripedium californica, down.

Far too attractive to survive in this spot for long.

From the California-Oregon border we
return to the North Coast Range, this time to
Mendocino County which is approximately
mid-way between the border and San
Francisco.
Next, a rather more extensive reference to
the species Calochortus, followed by
examples of chaparral in the south-western
foothills of the Sierra Nevada.
We have been through May – with a couple
of deviations - running into June –
stressing once again that no two seasons
are alike.

Fritillaria recurva, another plant of northern California and southern Oregon, can be seen
frequently by the roadside from the border to Mendocino County, which is almost as far south as it
grows. Silhouetted against the shadow of the shrubs, it is not impressive, but…

…from this distance it becomes an attractive species. The chequered flowers of the scarlet fritillary, with
its strongly recurved tips of the conjoined tepals, grace the tops of slender plants which often grow with
the flowers emerging through supporting dwarf shrubs but can grow unaided as you can see.

A south-west facing slope at about 5,000ft, very close to the Mendocino Pass, supported a fritillary
which is as short as the previous species is tall!! This is the Siskiyou fritillary…

…Fritillaria glauca, which has roughly the same geographical range as the last species. There were
two colour forms in this colony, the majority were yellow…

…and a few were this purplish colour. In some colonies, the colour proportions are reversed.

Phlox diffusa, the spreading phlox, was growing on the same slope. Here is a picture of this
common phlox of the American West.

At lower elevations in this area, many roadside verges and banks were covered with masses of
Calochortus amabilis, a species with a range restricted to a dozen or so western counties of

Calochortus species may be divided loosely into two groups, those with globe-shaped pendant
flowers that you see here and those with open upward facing campanulate flowers, which we
illustrated earlier.

The genus is restricted to western North and Central America, with the greatest concentration of
species found in California (a good excuse for including rather more than is warranted). Here is
another species with globe-shaped flowers – the coastal form of C. albus.

A colour variety of C. albus often known as var. rubellus.

And now the group with open upward facing flowers, of which there are far more species than
those with flowers that are globe-shaped. These are…

…the flowers of C. vestae. The name for the section containing open upward-facing flowers is
‘Mariposa’ meaning ‘butterfly’. A personal reason for including all of these Calochortus flowers is that
until recently, Gwen was able to cultivate many species, and the next slide illustrates some of her results.

Calochortus argillosus C. clavatus C. kennedyi C. luteus
C. striatus C. venustus red form C. superbus C. venustus
.
Seven species photographed in our greenhouse in Lincolnshire, England – all grown from seed.

Chaparral is a name given to scrub vegetation or shrub communities, often forming dense stands of
brush, which in various forms covers approximately one-tenth of the state. Here in the S.W. foothills of
the Sierra most of the shrubs are evergreen, drought tolerant, and adapted to flourish in this
Mediterranean climate. Elsewhere, where other conditions prevail, different genera will be present.

Fremontodendron californicum is one of the spectacular shrubs of these Sierran foothills,
whole hillsides becoming yellow in May and June.

There are no petals; the flowers are formed by
sepals and bracts.

Dendromecon rigida is another shrub found in the chaparral, seen here growing with a species
of Ceanothus.

It is often referred to as the poppy bush or tree – the
flowers certainly resemble those of poppies.

Ceanothus and Arctostaphylos, two very common genera of the Sierran chaparral, form dense
thickets across these foothills. In California there are some 60 taxa of Ceanothus and about 80
Arctostaphylos. Unfortunately we find identification of species very difficult, consequently, we do
not feel confident enough to name the plants illustrated.

The colour of Ceanothus flowers vary from the most gorgeous blue (unfortunately we have no picture)
through this rather drab colour …

…..to white. You can see why this species is often called the Californian lilac . Many Ceanothus
species and cultivars make excellent garden shrubs particularly for sunny and sheltered positions.

Arctostaphylos is described in The Flora of North America as ‘a richly diverse and taxonomically
challenging genus of trees and shrubs.’ Whatever its name, this species with grey-green leaves and
white flowers would make a decorative shrub.

The majority of species are often known as ‘manzanitas,’ derived from the Spanish for ‘little
apples’. Three of the arctic species are referred to as ‘bearberries’, with Arctostaphylos
meaning ‘bear’ and ‘bunch of grapes’.

.
Another example of an attractive Arctostaphylos species. I would also mention that many species
are able to resprout after fire, which is just as well because scenes…

...such as this are not uncommon in California. Fierce wild fires often occur in this region; in fact
periodic burning is essential for the survival of some of these shrub communities.

Fire has destroyed the canopy giving sun lovers more light; after rain dormant bulbs will sprout,
seeds will germinate and flowers will bloom. Many of the shrubs will subsequently sprout again, the
canopy will gradually return, and the cycle will be repeated time after time through the millennia.

These plants of Calochortus clavatus that had not seen direct sunlight for many years can now
grow and bloom again. Unfortunately with no shrubs for support they are prostrate, but they can
flower, set seed and reproduce. Here is an illustration of bulbs encouraged into growth after fire …

….and now an annual, Papaver californicum. The seeds have lain dormant since the previous fire
then, following this conflagration and taking advantage of favourable moisture and ash-enriched
soil, they have exploded into this covering of vegetation.
Photo – Jeanette Sainz

Papaver californicum is called the Fire Poppy, and these annuals that spring into life after fire are
sometimes referred to as ‘fire followers.’
Photo – Jeanette Sainz

In most years, the plants that follow would be
flowering in late June and through July.
After lilies in north-western California, we shall
select more plants from the northern border area,
firstly from the west and then the east.

It is now mid-summer when the northern Californian coast can be enveloped in fog, sometimes for days.
Cool, moisture-laden oceanic air meets the warm dry air from the land, resulting in this coastal fog belt.
Fog-drip from the trees is calculated to be equivalent to about 10 inches of rain per annum.

This is lily country and after the sun had burnt off the fog it was possible to photograph
Lilium Columbianum.

Lilium columbianum is relatively common and widespread in coastal scrub, meadows and forest
clearings from northern California to British Columbia.

The rare, fragrant Lilium kelloggii is found on the foggiest parts of this coast and is restricted to four
coastal counties spanning the border. It flourishes on the verges of small roads running through the
Redwoods in this very restricted range. The flowers as you can see are pendant, whereas…

...those of Lilium rubescens are ascending to erect. This Californian endemic, often referred
to as the redwood lily, is restricted to some ten counties in the north of the state. The flowers
open white, aging to pink-purple.

A third rare lily of this border area Lilium bolanderi, is a plant of chaparral and evergreen
forests, often on serpentine soils in the Siskiyou Mountains.

This pink-flowered form of the deciduous Western Azalea is native along the coast of northern California.
The next fog bank may be seen on the horizon poised to roll in and envelope the coast once more.

This colour fourm
This colour form is sometimes labelled as Rhododendron occidentalis var. paludosum, a
name that does not seem to be recognised. I have seen it suggested that ‘there is considerable
genetic diversity within the species, probably reaching its highest level along this coast in the
vicinity of the border between Oregon and California.' This is therefore simply a colour form of…

...Rhododendron occidentalis var. occidentale which has a much wider distribution in both
California and Oregon.

This broadleaf evergreen Rhododendron macrophyllum has an even wider range, extending
from Monterey County in California northwards along the coast to southern British Columbia.

Lewisia cotyledon is another of these plants restricted to a small area spanning this border, an
area of outstanding botanical diversity, mainly in the Siskiyou Mountains. Flowering plants can just
be seen below the shrubs (top right) and extend down the slope to bottom left.

The colours of these wild plants are a far cry from
those of the plants cultivated today.

Apart from the more or less distinct var. heckneri, which this is not, there are a number of rather
indistinct varieties growing in this area.

This habitat was once well forested; the Phlox that you see in the clearing is usually found in at
least partial shade.

It is Phlox adsurgens which has a restricted range similar to the previous species. It can be
recognised by its ascending flower stems and bright green elliptical leaves, so characteristic of
this species.

From the hills and mountains of high precipitation, a very brief visit to the Modoc Plateau of north-east
California. This ‘mile-high’ area of lava flows and cinder cones is in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mts.,
and is therefore much drier. Growing amongst the dwarf sagebrush was…

Fritillaria atropurpurea, the most widespread of the North American fritillaries. Four to six weeks
earlier, shortly after the snow had melted, we would have seen hundreds of flowering plants of…

…the far more attractive Fritillaria pudica, which were in seed at the time of our visit.

Although not visible from this distance, this volcanic slope supported very many flowering plants of…

….Allium platycaule. With its bright pink flowers and strongly exserted stamens it is considered
to be among the most beautiful of California onions.

We leave the northern California border for the
last time to visit the White Mountains that lie
on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada and
the upper Owens Valley. (No.1 on the map).
In conclusion, a single species from Mount
Lassen, the most southerly ‘active’ volcano in
the Cascade Range (No.2), followed by four
species from Winnemucca Lake, which is
close to Carson Pass in the northern Sierra
Nevada (No.3).
1
2
3

Astragalus coccineus, just below Westgard Pass situated at the southern end of the White
Mountains. This picture was taken looking westwards across Owens Valley to the Sierra Nevada.

The White Mountains are therefore to the east of, and in the shadow of, the Sierra Nevada.
Consequently, the Pacific westerlies will have lost most of their moisture. The summers are hot and
dry, the winters are also dry but very cold.

Astragalus coccineus is one of the showiest plants of the Californian desert areas.
the winters are also dry but very cold.

The silvery-grey foliage of the scarlet milk vetch sets off the large brilliant red flowers perfectly.

From Westgard Pass, White Mountain Road runs to the north giving wonderful panoramic views of
the Sierra Nevada to the west. Both the Schulman and Patriarch Groves of the Ancient Bristlecone
Pine Forest are accessible, as are numerous interesting plants near the road.

.
We are now climbing towards the groves of Bristlecone Pines; at about 8,000ft, growing in this
continental climate of extremes of temperature was one of the mat-forming North American Wild
Buckwheats - Eriogonum ovalifolium.

A highly diverse and variable species with many named varieties. This and other species are worth
growing for their foliage alone, making decorative ground cover.

The same might be said for Eriogonum caespitosum, but in this picture the flowers have
obscured most of the foliage. These brilliant mat-forming plants would look fine in any rock garden
but this natural setting is impossible to better.

The leaves, which are just visible, are much smaller than those of the last species.

The last two habitats also supported many plants of what is probably Phlox stansburyi, a species
with long flower tubes. Although the flower colour was lighter than many, this picture was worth
including for the setting.

Rather more colour here, with the flowers growing through the
leaves of dwarf sagebrush.

Plants of Eriogonum caespitosum again, but the small white flowers of…

…the white form of Lewisia rediviva are the intended objective. We can now see the shape and size of
the leaves that belong to Eriogonum caespitosum (not the Lewisia). Apologies, they are not in focus.

Here in the sub-alpine zone, at the bottom of the habitat is Penstemon rostriflorus. A typical
hummingbird flower, it has scarlet tubular flowers ideal for those delightful little creatures.

There are very many species of Penstemon in North America; it is therefore remiss of us not to
have included plants before. Here are two species photographed on the White Mt. Road.
Penstemon floridus P. speciosus

The Patriarch Grove of the Ancient Western Bristlecone Pine Forest lies in the alpine zone between 11-
12,000ft. These Western Bristlecone Pines – Pinus longaeva – are considered to be the oldest living
things on earth. Some are over four thousand five hundred years old.

In winter they are lashed by blizzards and winds laden with ice crystals, and then scorched by the
burning summer sun through this rarefied atmosphere.

Sometimes described as living driftwood. We understand that the cones of some of the older trees
still produce viable seeds. We now leave the White Mountains for…

…Mt. Lassen, the southernmost ‘active’ volcano in the Cascade Range which last erupted during
1915-17. This is Lake Helen with Lassen Peak in the background…

…and here on the southern flank, Erythronium purpurascens grows amongst the ground cover.

Erythronium purpurascens is one of the smaller species of the genus, often found growing near
the snow line of the southern Cascades and northern Sierra Nevada. The flowers are white with
yellow centres, ageing to pink or purple – hence the species name meaning “becoming purple.”

The northern Sierra Nevada and Round Top (10,381ft.) as seen from the Carson Pass trail to Winnemucca
Lake. Scattered amongst the shrubs in the foreground are plants of Frasera speciosa.

This member of the gentian family is known as the Monument Plant for an obvious reason – it
can grow up to five feet, possibly more. Frasera speciosa is monocarpic, taking several years
– some say 20 or 30 years – before flowering and then dying.

This is Winnemucca Lake which is immediately below Round Top, with Cassiope mertensiana, a
dwarf decumbent alpine shrub often found creeping around and over rocks.

Cassiope mertensiana is common from Alaska to the Rockies.

Whereas Phyllodoce breweri, another ericaceous shrub, is a Californian endemic.

It differs from the common and widespread Phyllodoce empetriformis by its open campanulate
flowers and exserted stamens.

On an extremely wet ledge that channelled snow melt to the lake below was
Dodecatheon alpinum, which can be found as high as 11,500ft.

On the scree of Round Top was the plant of our quest…

…the spreading, mat-forming Californian endemic Primula suffrutescens. These plants need snow
melt for moisture during their growing season. Broad mats of the Primula, still in bud, can be seen
covering most of this slope.

Primula suffrutescens, sometimes referred to as the
Sierra Primrose, is the only Californian native Primula.

Summit of Mount Shasta from Panther Meadows. Whilst
we have demonstrated that California certainly has a contrasting flora, we have not and did not
intend to present a balanced picture. We have selected plants that are colourful and of interest
as well as a number of species that are now becoming rare due to the actions of man.

California, Flora of Contrasts

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