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the palace of veRsailles presents


the 18th century
back    in fashion
guide to the exhibition
and the grand trianon
8 july – 9 OCTOBer
organised with the
Grand trianon floor plan
                                                                                                                              the 18th century
                                                                                                                              back in fashion
                                                                                                                              couturiers and fashion designers
                                                                                                                              at the grand trianon

                                                                                                                              The Grand Trianon and the Musée Galliera, the fashion
                                                                                                                              museum of t he Ci t y of Pa r is , pr e sen t in a p oe t ic
                                                                                                                              confrontation costumes from the 18 th century and
                                                                                                                              masterpieces of haute couture and fashion design from
                                                                                                                              the 20th and 21st centuries.

                                                                                                                              The 18 th century with its floating dresses, its voluminous
                                                                                                                              skirts, flounces and furbelows, its silhouettes of minor
                                                                                                                              marquis in three-piece suits and its immense hairst yles
                                                                                                                              have never ceased to inspire the world of haute couture.
                                                                                                                              The Enlightenment, the age of French Europe according
                                                                                                                              to the famous saying, continues to fascinate. The political
                                                                                                                              and cultural prestige of France was at its highest, when
                                                                                                                              wit, lightness and elegance metamorphosed into a
                                                                                                                              veritable art of fine living. Since 1800, the fashion world
                                                                                                                              has continued to refer back to the 18 th century for both
                                                                                                                              women’s and men’s clothing as well as for its textiles
                                                                                                                              and accessories.
                                                                      French court dress (detail) © EPV, J-M Manaï, C Milet




                                                                                                                              L ike mir ror s r eflec t ing e ach other , the gar ment s
                                                                                                                              exhibited, from haute couture to ready-to-wear, propose
Self-guided architecture tour                                                                                                 a modern reading of that extr avagant century. Each
a self-guided architectural tour takes you through the grand
                                                                                                                              designer adapts the period to his/her sensibilit y. Some
trianon’s most notable places at the same time as the "18th century
                                                                                                                              quote the 18 th century shapes almost liter ally, while
                                                                                                                              others deconstruct them, expand their dimensions and
back in fashion" exhibition.
                                                                                                                              interpret them in a riot of shimmering silks, embroidery
                                                                                                                              and lace. The dresses of the queens and princesses of the
                                                                                                                              Enlightenment dialogue down the year s with these
                                                                                                                              masterpieces of luxury and creativity.
                                                                                                                                                                                         1
3.



fashion in the 18th century                                                              in the late 1770's simplicity started replacing the
                                                                                         pannier’s exaggerated shapes. adjusted dresses with

when people think of 18    th
                                century women’s fashion,                                 pleated or hitched-up skirts eclipsed the french court

images of figures with wide hips and narrow busts                                        gown. straight linen or cotton chiffon gowns, an

immediately spring to mind. panniers – petticoats                                        evocation of lingerie and its intimate character,

stiffened with evenly-spaced whalebone stays – reshaped                                  turned into morning or afternoon wear. the queen

the lower part of the body. whalebone corsets turned                                     of France dared to wear percale for her afternoon

women’s busts into upside-down triangles coming to                                       outfits. tuckers and ankle-length skirts comprised

a point in the centre of the immense oval of the hips.                                   negligées for noblewomen and elegant outfits for the
                                                                                         women of humbler means.

eighteenth-century prints and paintings show women                                                                                                                                   4.
                                                                                   1.    men wore "french" suits, which became so popular
with fan-shaped figures wearing fancy dresses or
gowns. the "robe à la française", or sack-back dress,                                    they were soon known as "european" suits, made up         Captions
                                                                                         of coats, long-sleeved waistcoats and breeches, which     3. French court dress,
a sort of large, open coat over a skirt with a floating,
                                                                                                                                                   skirt and stomacher,
pleated back, made of endless yards of fabric,                                           formed the basic combination for centuries to come.
                                                                                                                                                   circa 1750-1760.
captures the imagination. made of silk featuring wavy                                    early in the century the coats had wide underskirted      Polychrome figured
floral patterns, worn by marquise de pompadour,                                          coat-tails, the pannier’s masculine counterpart, before   silk purl, gold and
                                                                                         moving in the same direction as women’s clothing          silver lamé.
it represents the quintessence of the rococo spirit
                                                                                         towards a more slender look. fronts were waisted and      Galliera Collections.
that characterised the middle of the century. but
fantasies about 18th century women’s dress often                                         became longer with straight collars. a riot of refined
                                                                                                                                                   4. Duchess © RMN,
mix the image of the "robe à la française" with that                                     polychrome silk thread embroidery blossomed on these      Gérard Blot.
of the formal court gown, an unbelievable outfit                                         coats but the sporty, simple english look’s influence
                                                                                         tempered that fancifulness in the 1780's. solid coats,    5. Pair of shoes,
comprising a skirt over a huge pannier, a large top
                                                                                                                                                   circa 1730.
with a wide neckline and a train that could be several                                   military lapels and dark colours counterbalanced
                                                                                                                                                   Leather embroidered
meters long with stays attached to the bottom.                                      2.   18th century exuberance and heralded the following        with silver thread.
paintings and prints show them overflowing with                                          century’s seriousness.                                    Galliera Collections.
                                                           Captions
flounces, ruffles and a profusion of lace, gauze,          1. Men’s court suit,
                                                           circa 1750-1760.              Text based on Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros' article
trimming, spangles, silver strips and semi-precious
                                                           Shot taffeta, chain-stitch    in the exhibition catalogue.
stones. in the second half of the 18th century these
                                                           embroidery, blue silk
dresses provided fashion merchants, those designers        thread, embroidery
of ornament – madame alexandre and madame eloffe,          patterns, wooden
merchants of versailles, and especially Rose bertin,       buttons covered with
famous throughout europe, who took pride in                embroidered taffeta.
                                                           Galliera Collections.
having marie-antoinette, the queen of France, as                                                                                                                                5.
                                                                                         see 18th century costumes
a customer – with an opportunity to give their             2. Jacket and skirt (back),
imaginations free reign.                                   circa 1785. Striped Gros
                                                                                         dialoguing with contemporary models
                                                           de Tours silk trimmed         throughout the "18th century back
                                                           with                          in fashion" exhibition.
                                                           a ribbon.
                                                           Galliera Collections.
2                                                                                                                                                                           3
Givenchy by                                                                                         Vivienne
alexander                                                                                           Westwood
Mcqueen

                                                                                                     evening gown
                                                                                                    "vive la Cocotte" Coll.
F/w 1999-2000
                                                                                                     ready-to-wear
haute couture coll.
                                                                                                     F/w 1995-1996
Passage 26. Redingote in turquoise faille silk
moiré with antique lace applications on pale grey                                                   No 85. historic model based on Boucher’s
lace pants ornamented with crystal beads and                                                        portrait of Madame de Pompadour;
a grey silk taffeta blouse.                                                                         pink Duchesse satin and lace.
Maison Givenchy Collection                                                                          Vivienne Westwood Ltd Collection


People have always been amazed                                                                      English designer Vivienne Westwood is
by the sophistication of 18th century                                                               often considered quirky and provocative,
men’s clothes, which our contemporaries                                                             especially since her punk collections
perceive as feminine. Alexander                                                                     caused a scandal in the 1980's. In the       wardrobes. Vivienne Westwood gave the
McQueen, then Givenchy’s artistic                                                                   1990's she turned to the charms of the       Age of Enlightenment fresh impetus.
director, revisited the men’s wardrobe                                                              18th century. Passionate about cut and
of the Age of Enlightenment to dress                                                                technique, she has used ribbons and          You can also see her models in the
women in precious evening gowns.                                                                    safety pins, become a master of              Aides-de-Camp Room (1), Topographi-
The lavishly ornamented model on                                                                    subversive historical assemblages and        cal Room (15) and Garden Room (17).
display is a literal quotation of men’s                                                             brought frivolity and powdery colours
French court suit but here McQueen                                                                  back to the forefront after years when
ironically appropriates it for women.                                                               Japanese and Belgian designers' intense
Silk was the most commonly used                                                                     black dominated magazine pages and
material for court dresses. Here, thick
faille replaces taffeta; satin or velvet
and antique silver lace replaces silver
thread. Like in the 18th century,                   aides-de-camp room (1)                          the empress’s boudoir (2)
embroidery patterns adorn the front,
collar and wrists.                                  This all belonged to a group of secondary       At first, the boudoir communicated with      DON’T MISS
                                                    rooms during the First Empire. Louis-Philippe   the neighbouring room through the door       The ma hog any tap estr y l o om
                                                    used it as an aides-de-camp room.               on the right. Louis-Philippe had the door    ornamented with gilt bronze (1810),
                                                                                                    left of the fireplace opened to connect it   attributed to Alexandre MAIGRET,
                                                                                                    to the apartment he had built for himself    comes from this room.
                                                                                                    in Louis XIV’s former kitchens.
4                                                                                                                                                                                    5
chanel BY                                                                                                                                                  18th century
Karl Lagerfeld                                                                                                                                             fashion:
                                                                                                                                                           the french
                                                                                                                                                           court dress
Foreground: Spring/Summer 2005 Haute Couture
Collection, No. 40. Evening gown: washed white
faille silk, blue satin ribbon, bow, round gilded
                                                                                                                                                           The French court gown, also known in
metal brooch ornamented by blue and white beads
and white porcelain flowers on a bed of white pearls                                                                                                       English as the "robe volante", "robe à la
and mother-of-pearl; stiff tulle pleated skirt with a                                                                                                      française" or sack-back gown, was a big,
pannier effect.                                                                                                                                            flowing coat with a wide, pleated back
Background: Autumn/Winter 1992-1993                                                                                                                        forming a short train. As the 18th century
Haute Couture Collection, No. 97. Bridal
ensemble: jacket, gown, crinoline petticoat.
                                                                                                                                                           progressed it became tighter in front,
Jacket: ivory wool tweed, pearly white cellophane                                                                                                          hugging the contours of the bust stiffened
lined with ivory satin, gilded chain. Dress:                                                                                                               by a whalebone corset. The back had a
satin-lined tweed; taffeta trimmed with a ribbon.                                                                                                          double row of flat double pleats. The dress
Maison Chanel Collection
                                                                                                                                                           became known as the "robe à la française"
                                                                                                                                                           throughout Europe, where it became
Karl Lagerfeld, a collector and a                                                                                                                          popular from the 1730's.
couturier, accumulated a comprehensive
collection of 18th century furniture and                                                                                                                   Wearing a French court dress was the sign
objects, eventually selling them                                                                                                                           of a certain social status: putting one on
to purchase designer pieces and                                                                                                                            required the help of a servant, who had to
contemporary works echoing his                                                                                                                             crawl underneath it to adjust the back
stylistic renewal. He finds                                                                                                                                with laces on the inside.
Mademoiselle Chanel’s soft colours
in the delicacy of the Age of                                                                                                                              The French court gown was nicknamed
Enlightenment. His mischievous but                                                                                                                         the "Watteau dress" because the painter
knowledgeable take on a French court                                                                                                                       Antonie Watteau (1684-1721) often
gown, all in silk faille, is whimsically                                                                                                                   depicted his models wearing it.
punctuated under the breasts with
a blue satin ribbon like the light cotton
chiffon dresses at the end of the                       Room of mirrors (3)
century. His Watteau collection’s                                                                          DON’T MISS 
unexpected poetry contrasts with                        Louis XIV’s former Great Study, where the king     Set of mahogany tables delivered to Empress
the Chanel label’s strict rigour.                       met with his privy council. From that period the   Marie-Louise in 1810: needlework table,
                                                        room has kept its cornice and mirrors embedded     "letterbox" table, game table, tidy table and
                                                        in panelling carved with flower garlands.          drawing table.

6                                                                                                                                                                                                    7
Balenciaga                                                                                                    Azzedine Alaïa
by Nicolas
Ghesquière
                                                                                                              dress
                                                                                                              ready-to-wear Coll.
                                                                                                              s/s 1992
women’s ensemble
                                                                                                              Lace-up bustier dress with white English
ready-to-wear coll.                                                                                           embroidery on petticoat
s/s 2006                                                                                                      Azzedine Alaïa Archives Collection

Flesh-coloured embroidered organza jacket, flowery
ecru lace jacket, off-white organza satin jacket, ecru
                                                                                                              Azzedine Alaïa’s sensuous fashions
lace corset and undergarments, embroidered satin                                                              stress the womanly curves that inspire
crêpe trousers.                                                                                               him. All the designer keeps of the
Maison Balenciaga Collection                                                                                  libertine spirit in his streamlined
                                                                                                              version of the 18th century are tight
Cristòbal Balenciaga often quoted                        The waistcoats fit tightly around the                waists and full bosoms combined
Goya’s 18th century: his use of lace –                   bust. The underskirted coat-tails take               with the false rigour of an army jacket
usually black – and pink satin ribbons                   the form of the coat; the wrists adopt               or the freshness of English embroidery
recalls portraits of the Duchess of Alba.                the flounced pagoda sleeves' shape                   too prim and proper to really be
Nicolas Ghesquière pays tribute to that                  characteristic of mid-18th century                   believable. This dress is squeezed,        White cotton and English embroidery
legacy by turning values and colour                      French court dresses; cropped trousers               laced-up top evokes whalebone              recall the "negligée" women wore,
codes upside-down: men’s clothing                        replace breeches.                                    corsets, while the wide hips bring         which became walking or afternoon
where ruffly eggshell and cream lace is                                                                       panniers to mind. The waisted jacket       dress by the late 18th century.
omnipresent and transparency stresses                                                                         featuring big pockets with flaps recalls
the martial look of young women                                                                               a men’s coat.
dressed as men.




the empress’s bedchamber (4)
                                                                                                          DON’T MISS
The Empress’s Bedchamber still has the                   carved into a mosaic. During the Empire it was   The bed, which was Napoleon’s at the
décor of Louis XIV’s bedchamber, which it                divided to form a smaller bedroom and            Tuileries Palace and where his successor
had formerly been: Corinthian columns                    a sitting room used by Empress Marie-Louise,     Louis XVIII, the brother of Louis XVI,
dividing the room and panelling admirably                who commissioned the furniture you see today.    died in 1825.

8                                                                                                                                                                                              9
the 1950's AND                                     Thierry                                              Jacques                                             Comme des
Pierre Balmain                                     Mugler                                               Doucet                                              garçons


"Antonia" evening                                  "Infante" ball gown                                  dress, circa 1898-1900                              Ready-to-wear coll.
gown                                                ready-to-wear coll.                                                                                     a/w 2010-2011
                                                                                                        Figured black satin, black chantilly bobbin lace,
haute couture Coll.                                 F/w 1992-1993                                       black silk chiffon; gold-printed ivory label:       Coat and pants ensemble: cotton cloth and mixed
s/s 1954                                                                                                "DOUCET/21 RUE DE LA PAIX/PARIS"                    black fibres, shoulder pads, hips and sleeves
                                                   Barathea and pleated black tulle.                    Galliera Collections
                                                   Maison Thierry Mugler Collection                                                                         fastened to the inside by zips; shaped trousers,
Orlon satin embroidered with a panel of gold                                                                                                                black chenille braiding on the sides.
scrolls, pearly beads, red chiffon rose appliqué
                                                                                                        Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) was born                 Galliera Collections
patterns, embroidered leaves and two petticoats:   Thierry Mugler’s glamorous world
horse-hair and double ottoman.                                                                          into a family that had been making and
                                                   swings back and forth between 1950's                                                                     From the Middle Ages to the Age of the
Galliera Collections                                                                                    selling clothes since 1816. From 1898
                                                   Hollywood and Paris. The designer                                                                        Enlightenment, extensions, reductions
                                                                                                        to 1927 he headed one of the biggest
                                                   goes to great demonstrative lengths to                                                                   and other inventions attired and
The Age of Enlightenment had a                                                                          couture houses in Paris. Doucet
                                                   intensify the feminine shapes                                                                            transformed the body in the West.
strong influence on Pierre Balmain.                                                                     dressed the early 20th century’s most
                                                   associated with dominating women:                                                                        Rei Kawakubo explores the relationship
The New Look Christian Dior                                                                             notable women but did not consider
                                                   ostentation, the theatrical display of                                                                   between that historical and contemporary
launched in 1947 featured narrow                                                                        himself as a designer and never joined
                                                   the female body and cruelty, notions                                                                     fashion, from the removable – and
waists and a voluminous skirts                                                                          the Chambre syndicale de la couture.
                                                   particular to the 18th century of                                                                        moveable – bum rolls in his famous
supported by thick petticoats; elegant                                                                  In 1875 he began amassing a large
                                                   Dangerous Liaisons. His collections                                                                      Spring/Summer 1997 collection, where
women wore girdles and corsets that                                                                     collection of 18th century French
                                                   feature outfits the Marquise de                                                                          the outfits emphasized the figure, to his
reshaped their bodies. For evening                                                                      furniture and artworks that had a
                                                   Merteuil would have loved. Thierry                                                                       Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 collection,
wear, lavish fabrics and embroidery                                                                     lasting influence on his own designs.
                                                   Mugler’s collections offer gowns with                                                                    from which the outfit on display is taken.
preciously dressed 20th century figures                                                                 In 1912 he sold it in order to focus on
                                                   volumes recalling the panniers of                                                                        With their zippered hoops and
echoing Age of Enlightenment fashion.                                                                   contemporary art.
                                                   formal Court dress.                                                                                      removable quilting, his clothes evoke
                                                                                                                                                            a late 18th century "Amazon" director
                                                                                                                                                            Tim Burton would have dreamed up.
                                                                                                                                                            The black coat is an improbable
                                                                                                                                                            combination of a woman’s pannier and
Chapel room (5)                                                                                     the lord’s room (6)                                     the buttoned-up lapels of certain
                                                                                                                                                            military coats from the second half
Originally built as a chapel, this room            cornice decoration has bunches of grapes and     The former Lord’s room became the King’s                of the 18th century.
became an antechamber in 1691 but many             ears of wheat evoking the Eucharistic wine and   and later the Empress’s First Antechamber.
of the original features were kept.                bread and paintings depict the Evangelists       It still has its 1691-1692 décor, including the
The back door opens onto an altar, the             Saint Mark and Saint Luke.                       military trophy on the mantelpiece.
10                                                                                                                                                                                                        11
the grand                                                                           the cotelle
trianon                                                                             gallery (16)


 In 1687 Jules Hardouin-Mansart built      Trianon back to life in 1962-1965,       This gallery, which shielded the upper       and woodwork sculptures are based
 the Grand Trianon on the site of the      when he had major work done to turn      parterre’s flowers from cold weather,        on the gardens.
"Porcelain Trianon", which Louis XIV       the north wing, called "Trianon-sous-    is named after the artist Jean Cotelle,
 had had built in 1670 to flee the stiff   bois", into apartments for the French    who painted the views of the gardens
 formality Court etiquette and spend       president and foreign heads of State     of Versailles and Trianon as they
 time in private with his mistress,        on official visits.                      looked in Louis XIV’s day: they are
 Madame de Montespan. The king was                                                  precious documents because most              the round
 especially fond of the Trianon, where                                              of the groves they depict have
 he also came for short stays with his                                              disappeared or been changed.                 room (8)
 family: the Grand Dauphin, Duchess
 of Burgundy and Madame de                 the peristyle (7)
 Maintenon. He successively occupied
 three apartments, in the right wing
 (1688-1691), the left wing (1691-1703)
                                                                                    the trianon                                  This vestibule gave access to the first
                                                                                                                                 apartment, which Louis XIV occupied
 and again in the right wing (1703-        The innovative "loggia" piercing         gardens                                      just three years, from 1688 to 1691.
 1715). The rooms still have most of       the Grand Trianon’s centre gives the                                                  The Corinthian columns, marble
 their 17th century wall decoration:       building its transparency and connects                                                paving and paintings date from that
 finely carved panelling painted white,    the courtyard and gardens. French                                                     period. A wooden drum to the right
 with no gilding.                          doors on the courtyard side originally    Trianon is the "Palais de Flore":           of the fireplace conceals the staircase
 Marie Leszczinska also liked the          closed this gallery, wrongly called a     every room has a view of the gardens,       musicians climbed to reach the gallery
 Grand Trianon, where she lived in the     peristyle ever since Louis XIV had it     which are entirely devoted to flowers       in the room next door, where the
 summer, but Marie-Antoinette              built. A few years later they were        here. Many varieties were chosen            king’s souper took place.
 preferred the Petit Trianon, offered to   eliminated to emphasize the building’s    for their colours and smells.
 her by Louis XVI. All of the Grand        transparency. In 1810 Napoleon had       "The tuberoses make us flee Trianon
 Trianon’s furniture was sold during       the peristyle glazed to facilitate        every evening," Madame de
 the French Revolution. Napoleon I         communication between his apartment       Maintenon wrote in a letter on
 restored and remodelled the palace,       and that of the Empress.                  8 August 1689. "The smell is so
 where he stayed many times with his                                                 strong it makes men and women
 wife, Empress Marie-Louise. Louis-                                                  alike feel ill." All the décor, paintings
 Philippe went there with his family.
 General de Gaulle brought the Grand

12                                                                                                                                                                    13
maison martin                                                               fashion
                                                    margiela                                                                    accessoires
Boué Sœurs
                                                                                                                                In the 18th century accessories, like clothes, fulfilled two
                                                    women’s ensemble                                                            purposes: they were vectors of fashion and conspicuous
                                                    s/s 1993 Coll.                                                              displays of luxury. Jewels and jewellery were inseparable
"romance" gown,
                                                                                                                                from women’s formal court dress.
embroidery from the                                 Re-use of a waistcoat from a theatre costume:
lesage house,                                       black velvet, black cotton cloth lining, braiding                           The panoply of accessories was much richer than it is today:
winter 1925-1926                                    applications of gilded metallic threads;
                                                                                                                                removable lace sleeves, fans, gloves, mittens, purses, clutch
                                                    long straight skirt in striped black and white
                                                                                                                                bags and precious shoes, often made with embroidered silk,
Machine-made black Chantilly lace, polychrome       chiné wool.
taffeta and chiffon flowers, green and ochre wool   Galliera Collections                                                        rounded out women’s outfits. In the 1770's-1780's powdered
thread; modern backing; white label with orange                                                                                 hair was topped by hats, poufs or big bonnets ornamented
weave.
                                                    Martin Margiela’s 1991 and 1993                                             with feathers, gauze, birds and other fanciful decoration
Galliera Collections                                                                                                            abundantly illustrated in the nascent fashion press.
                                                    Spring/Summer collections offer
                                                    a contemporary take on the
In 1899 Sylvie and Jeanne Boué opened                                                                                           Eighteenth-century accessories have not inspired
                                                    18th century by re-employing
a fashion house that remained active                                                                                            contemporary designers as much as clothes, but today’s
                                                    a 1950's dress he found at the flea
until 1935. The sisters' quest for                                                                                              beads, bows and brilliants reflect a certain amount
                                                    market and old stage costumes.
modernity did not stop them from                                                                                                of continuity, as the contemporary items in these showcases
                                                    The designer, using their patina
drawing inspiration from earlier                                                                                                alongside 18th century objects suggest.
                                                    and worn-out look as raw materials,
periods, in particular that of Louis XV.
                                                    intelligently deconstructed the
The "period dress" they invented at the
                                                    pieces and transformed them
same time as Jeanne Lanvin took up
                                                    from stage costumes into clothes.
certain 18th-century codes: pannier,
lace and fabric flowers.



the emperor’s family room (9)

At first this room housed a theatre that            turned them into a room for meetings of the         DON’T MISS
was replaced by Louis XIV’s last                    imperial family and important guests.               The purple breccia fireplace dating from
apartment, which Louis XV transformed               The furniture dates from that period.               Louis XV.
into reception rooms in 1750. Napoleon


14                                                                                                                                                                                             15
Maison
Christian Dior


"doutzen kroes" dress
haute couture coll.
 F/W 2007-2008

Shot pink silk taffeta dress based on Fragonard,
veiled with candy pink tulle
Maison Christian Dior Archives Collection


Since 1997 Dior’s couturier shows,
lavish spectacles in their own right,
have blurred the traditional
boundaries between fashion and
stage costumes, offering mirror
images of 18th century styles –
outfits of fairies and princesses
that would make the queens and
favourites in our history books
turn green with envy.

You can also see Maison Dior
models in the Chapel Room (5)
and the Malachite Room (13).




queen of the belgians'
bedchamber (10)
                                                                                             DON’T MISS
This room, formerly the bedchamber                 Louis-Philippe turned it into reception   The gilded wooden bed JACOB-
and drawing room of Louis XIV’s third              rooms and an apartment for his son-in-    DESMALTER delivered in 1809 for
apartment, was used as a dining room               law and his daughter, the queen of the    Empress Josephine at the Tuileries
under Louis XV and the First Empire.               Belgians.                                 Palace. Enlarged and modified for this
16                                                                                           room in 1845.                            17
Yohji                                                                                       rochas by
yamamoto                                                                                    olivier theyskens


men’s ensemble,                                                                             women’s ensemble
ready-to-wear,                                                                              A/w 2006
s/s 2011
                                                                                            Jacket and skirt made for the release of Sofia
4 pieces: 1 shirt + 1 waistcoat + 1 pair of                                                 Coppola’s film Marie-Antoinette; grey tulle,
breeches + 1 jabot; grey and white.                                                         fake hair, crinoline.
Yohji Yamamoto Archives Collection.                                                         Galliera Collections


Yohji Yamamoto based his Spring/                                                            When Olivier Theyskens was art
Summer 2011 menswear fashion                                                                director at Rochas he offered a
show entirely on the late 18th century                                                      recomposed version of an 18th century
men’s wardrobe. The rigour and                                                              woman’s outfit, turning the dress into
simplicity of bewigged men’s outfits                                                        a short jacket and a skirt. The collared
recall the 1780's, when Anglomania,           You can also see a Yohji Yamamoto             jacket takes the form of the redingote
synonymous with comfort and                   model in the Lord’s Room (6).                 dress, a masculine version of the "robe
naturalness, reigned supreme.                                                               à l’anglaise"; the skirt rests on an early
In contrast, black and white                                                                18th century bell-shaped pannier. The
houndstooth wool and sensuous                                                               flounces at the wrists evoke the lace that
beige leather turn pannier dresses                                                          was sewn onto court dresses' sleeves.
into half-tamed contemporary                                                                American actress Kirsten Dunst wore
city wear.                                                                                  this dress during a Vogue photo shoot.




music room (11)

Former antechamber of Louis XIV’s             The panelling is among the palace’s oldest.   DON’T MISS
apartment, where the king’s souper            Above the doors, notice the shutters of the   The chairs covered in Beauvais upholstery
took place. Napoleon turned it into the       gallery where musicians played during the     made for this room.
Officers' Room and Louis-Philippe into        meal.
the Billiard Room.
18                                                                                                                                           19
Jean Paul                                                                                           malachite
Gaultier                                                                                            room (13)


women’s ensemble                                                                                    Louis XIV’s former room of the Setting
haute couture                                                                                       Sun, was turned into a bedchamber for
s/s 1998, "les marquis                                                                              the Duchess
                                                                                                    of Burgundy. Under Napoleon, it
touaregs" coll.
                                                                                                    became the Emperor’s Room, where
Pannier jacket, lamé, tulle, flounces, ruches, bows.                                                Tsar Alexander I’s gifts of malachite
Jean Paul Gaultier Maison Collection                                                                were displayed, hence its name,
                                                                                                    the Malachite room.
Jean Paul Gaultier takes delight
                                                                                                    Dress displayed:
in mixing up men’s and women’s
                                                                                                    Christian Dior Maison
wardrobes. In his spring/summer                                                                     Autumn/winter 2004/2005 haute couture dress.
1994 collection the iconoclastic
couturier put men’s French denim
jackets on women. The spring/                                                                                                                      topographical
summer 1998 "Les Marquis Touaregs"                                                                  the cool
collection combined a new vision
                                                                                                    room (14)                                      room (15)
of Marie-Antoinette’s century with
a relaxed, casual, contemporary
attitude.
                                                                                                                                                   The Duchess of Burgundy used this
                                                                                                    The Cool Room owes its name to                 room, which was designed in the
                                                                                                    its northern exposure. This is where           perspective of the gallery next door,
                                                                                                    Napoleon held his cabinet meetings             called the Cool Room in the 17th century,
                                                                                                    and Charles X bid farewell to his              as her main drawing room. Under the
                                                                                                    ministers on 31 July 1830.                     Empire it was known as the Emperor’s
                                                                                                                                                   Main Drawing Room and used to hold
louis-philippe’s family room (12)                                                                   Models displayed:                              cabinet meetings until the Restoration.
                                                                                                    Semi-linen French court dress and
                                                                                                    "robe à l’anglaise".
                                                                                                                                                   Dress displayed:
Louis-Philippe had two smaller rooms                   evenings. Brion furnished it in the spirit                                                  Vivienne Westwood
combined to create this large one, where               of the times: game and needlework tables,                                                   Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 1991.
the king and his family, who enjoyed                   padded chairs and sofas upholstered in
staying at Trianon, gathered in the                    yellow figured fabric with blue patterns.

20                                                                                                                                                                                       21
Haute couture autumn/winter 1995. Evening gown. Brocade busk with antique gold relief underlined by patinated metal and embroidered on large matching skirt. Christian Lacroix Maison Collection. © Marcio MADEIRA / Zeppelin.
Christian
Lacroix


women’s ensemble
spring/summer 1994

3 pieces: 1 top + 1 skirt + 1 necklace.
Evening gown, pastel flowered damask patchwork
busk embroidered with jewels, taffeta gingham
skirt, iridescent lace appliqués, embroidered birds,
butterflies and bouquets.


Christian Lacroix quotes the
18th century through the lens of the
1940s, 50s and 60s for theatre and
opera costumes as well as haute
couture collections. In 1987 he
turned his models into marquises
who looked good enough to eat.
The designer’s passionate interest
in art informs his mythology, where
dresses are sometimes paintings that
are visited and revisited as though
they were hanging in an ideal
imaginary museum.




the garden room (17)

The Garden Room’s six windows open                     billiard room under Napoleon. The door
out onto the little staggered rows and the             left of the fireplace leads to the Trianon-
perspective of the Grand Canal. This was               sous-Bois wing.
a game room under Louis XIV and a

22                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    23
design


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Credits: photo on left: © Andy Julia; photo on right: Photography: Chloé Le Drezen / Hair-Make-up: Luc Drouen @Mod's Hair / Costume: Atelier Les Vertugadins
Around the exhibition

Useful                                                                                                                                         game-booklet


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        competition
information
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    !
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          à gagner de
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  e
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         une rob et un
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 e
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        princess eau » !
                                                                                                                                                                                                             et
Exhibition from 8 July to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         kit « chât




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Encore Eux – © Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 1996, Marcio MADEIRA - Zeppelin/J. M. Manaï/Ch. Milet/Thinkstock
                                                                                                                                                                                                  vous proposent


9 October 2011. Open every                                                                                                                                                              le livret‑jeu
                                                                                                                                                                                           de l’exposition
                                                                                                                                                                                         « Le xviiie au goût du jour ‑


day except Monday from
                                                                                                                                                                                        Couturiers et créateurs de mode
                                                                                                                                                                                             au Grand Trianon »
                                                                                                                                                                                              jusqu’au 9 octobre 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                          organisée avec le Musée
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          And you, what’s your 18th century style?
noon to 6:30pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    ant
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              enf
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        les
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   ur
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Po
(last admission at 6pm).                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The Palace of Versailles, together with l’Express Styles and Le Bon Marché
                                                                                                                                                                                     www.bubblemag.fr               www.chateauversailles.fr                                                                                                                                               1




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Rive Gauche, is organising a design competition: by showing just a detail
                                                                                                                                               Free for children four to 12.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          or the full outfit, you too can revisit the Age of Enlightenment by posting
Exhibition accessible with                                                                                                                     Available at information points                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            a photo of your clothes, hairstyles or accessories inspired by this era. A
the Passeport ticket or the ticket                                                                                                             and the exhibition entrance.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               panel of judges, made up of fashion professionals and The Cherry Blossom
for the Trianon Palaces and                                                                                                                    With a game-contest to win                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Girl and Miss Pandora bloggers, will decide on the three best styles.
Marie-Antoinette’s Estate.                                                                                                                     a real tailor-made princess’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          To take part, post a photo of your style on:
                                                                                                                                               dress or a "palace kit".
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          www.concoursdestyle.chateauversailles.fr
Free for European Union
residents under 26.                                                                                                                            exhibition
                                                                                                                                               catalogue
                                                                                                                                                  THE 18TH CENTURY BACK IN FASHION




vogue at Versailles
                                                        Mises en résonance avec les chefs-d’œuvre des collections du musée Galliera, les
                                                        créations des plus grands couturiers contemporains témoignent d'une commune
                                                        fascination pour un XVIIIe siècle fantasmé : Lagerfeld invite Watteau et ses robes
                                                                                                                                               LE XVIIIE AU GOÛT DU JOUR




                                                        à la française chez Chanel, Galliano fait défiler chez Dior des princesses de contes
                                                        de fées, Westwood redonne vie à des courtisanes et marquises plutôt délurées...




Setting up the exhibition,
                                                        Riche d’un superbe portfolio mêlant gravures et pièces des XVIIIe, XIXe, XXe et
                                                        XXIe siècles, ce catalogue constitue un véritable hommage au style des Lumières
                                                        et à Versailles, berceau de la mode.

                                                        Harmonizing with the masterpieces from the Galliera museum, creations by
                                                        the greatest contemporary couturiers reveal a shared fascination for an
                                                        idealized 18th century: Lagerfeld invites Watteau and his robes à la française
                                                        into Chanel’s House, Galliano has fairytale princesses model for Dior, Westwood
                                                        brings to life saucy marquises and courtesans… With a wealth of engravings
                                                        and pieces from the 18th, 19th, 20th and 21st centuries, this catalogue is a hymn to




commissioner’s guided tour,
                                                        the style of the Age of Enlightenment and Versailles, the birthplace of fashion.

                                                                                                                                                                                                       LE XVIIIe
                                                                                                                                                                                                   AU GOÛT DU JOUR
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     COUTURIERS
                                                                                                                                                                                                                ET CRÉATEURS DE MODE




interviews with designers: extend
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  AU GRAND TRIANON



                                                                                                                                                                                                        THE 18TH CENTURY BACK IN FASHION
                                                                                                                                                                                                  COUTURIERS AND FASHION DESIGNERS IN THE GRAND TRIANON
                            ISBN : 978-2-85495-450-0



                         -:HSMIPE=^ZYZUU:
your visit to the exhibition at
                                                       23 e




                                                                                                                                               Bilingual (French-English)
                                                                                                                                               96-page work published
www.vogue.fr/vogue-a-versailles
                                                                                                                                               by Éditions Artlys
                                                                                                                                               Available at the Palace of                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     win:
                                                                                                                                               Versailles RMN shops and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              >A photo session with
                                                                                                                                               www.boutique-chateauversailles.fr                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              the magazine l’Express Styles

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              >A fashion lesson with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Gilles Rosier,

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              >Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              gift cards,

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              >   or maybe cameras.
ÉTABLISSEMENT PUBLIC DU CHÂTEAU,
                DU MUSÉE ET DU DOMAINE DE VErSAILLES
                Rp 834 - 78008 Versailles cedex
                Information and booking: 01 30 83 78 00 00
                www.chateauversailles.fr




sponsored by    Exhibition
                commissioner

                Olivier Saillard
                Director of the Galliera
                Museum, City of Paris Fashion
                Museum


                Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros,
                head curator at the Museum,
                City of Paris Fashion Museum


                Laurent Cotta,
                in charge of contemporary
                design at the Galliera Museum,
                City of Paris Fashion Museum




                The texts for this brochure were
                written by Laurent Cotta, Pascale
                Gorguet-Ballesteros, Delphine
                Jaulhac, Anne de Nesle, Olivier
                Saillard.




In media partnership with

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18th centure in versailles

  • 1. the palace of veRsailles presents the 18th century back in fashion guide to the exhibition and the grand trianon 8 july – 9 OCTOBer organised with the
  • 2. Grand trianon floor plan the 18th century back in fashion couturiers and fashion designers at the grand trianon The Grand Trianon and the Musée Galliera, the fashion museum of t he Ci t y of Pa r is , pr e sen t in a p oe t ic confrontation costumes from the 18 th century and masterpieces of haute couture and fashion design from the 20th and 21st centuries. The 18 th century with its floating dresses, its voluminous skirts, flounces and furbelows, its silhouettes of minor marquis in three-piece suits and its immense hairst yles have never ceased to inspire the world of haute couture. The Enlightenment, the age of French Europe according to the famous saying, continues to fascinate. The political and cultural prestige of France was at its highest, when wit, lightness and elegance metamorphosed into a veritable art of fine living. Since 1800, the fashion world has continued to refer back to the 18 th century for both women’s and men’s clothing as well as for its textiles and accessories. French court dress (detail) © EPV, J-M Manaï, C Milet L ike mir ror s r eflec t ing e ach other , the gar ment s exhibited, from haute couture to ready-to-wear, propose Self-guided architecture tour a modern reading of that extr avagant century. Each a self-guided architectural tour takes you through the grand designer adapts the period to his/her sensibilit y. Some trianon’s most notable places at the same time as the "18th century quote the 18 th century shapes almost liter ally, while others deconstruct them, expand their dimensions and back in fashion" exhibition. interpret them in a riot of shimmering silks, embroidery and lace. The dresses of the queens and princesses of the Enlightenment dialogue down the year s with these masterpieces of luxury and creativity. 1
  • 3. 3. fashion in the 18th century in the late 1770's simplicity started replacing the pannier’s exaggerated shapes. adjusted dresses with when people think of 18 th century women’s fashion, pleated or hitched-up skirts eclipsed the french court images of figures with wide hips and narrow busts gown. straight linen or cotton chiffon gowns, an immediately spring to mind. panniers – petticoats evocation of lingerie and its intimate character, stiffened with evenly-spaced whalebone stays – reshaped turned into morning or afternoon wear. the queen the lower part of the body. whalebone corsets turned of France dared to wear percale for her afternoon women’s busts into upside-down triangles coming to outfits. tuckers and ankle-length skirts comprised a point in the centre of the immense oval of the hips. negligées for noblewomen and elegant outfits for the women of humbler means. eighteenth-century prints and paintings show women 4. 1. men wore "french" suits, which became so popular with fan-shaped figures wearing fancy dresses or gowns. the "robe à la française", or sack-back dress, they were soon known as "european" suits, made up Captions of coats, long-sleeved waistcoats and breeches, which 3. French court dress, a sort of large, open coat over a skirt with a floating, skirt and stomacher, pleated back, made of endless yards of fabric, formed the basic combination for centuries to come. circa 1750-1760. captures the imagination. made of silk featuring wavy early in the century the coats had wide underskirted Polychrome figured floral patterns, worn by marquise de pompadour, coat-tails, the pannier’s masculine counterpart, before silk purl, gold and moving in the same direction as women’s clothing silver lamé. it represents the quintessence of the rococo spirit towards a more slender look. fronts were waisted and Galliera Collections. that characterised the middle of the century. but fantasies about 18th century women’s dress often became longer with straight collars. a riot of refined 4. Duchess © RMN, mix the image of the "robe à la française" with that polychrome silk thread embroidery blossomed on these Gérard Blot. of the formal court gown, an unbelievable outfit coats but the sporty, simple english look’s influence tempered that fancifulness in the 1780's. solid coats, 5. Pair of shoes, comprising a skirt over a huge pannier, a large top circa 1730. with a wide neckline and a train that could be several military lapels and dark colours counterbalanced Leather embroidered meters long with stays attached to the bottom. 2. 18th century exuberance and heralded the following with silver thread. paintings and prints show them overflowing with century’s seriousness. Galliera Collections. Captions flounces, ruffles and a profusion of lace, gauze, 1. Men’s court suit, circa 1750-1760. Text based on Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros' article trimming, spangles, silver strips and semi-precious Shot taffeta, chain-stitch in the exhibition catalogue. stones. in the second half of the 18th century these embroidery, blue silk dresses provided fashion merchants, those designers thread, embroidery of ornament – madame alexandre and madame eloffe, patterns, wooden merchants of versailles, and especially Rose bertin, buttons covered with famous throughout europe, who took pride in embroidered taffeta. Galliera Collections. having marie-antoinette, the queen of France, as 5. see 18th century costumes a customer – with an opportunity to give their 2. Jacket and skirt (back), imaginations free reign. circa 1785. Striped Gros dialoguing with contemporary models de Tours silk trimmed throughout the "18th century back with in fashion" exhibition. a ribbon. Galliera Collections. 2 3
  • 4. Givenchy by Vivienne alexander Westwood Mcqueen evening gown "vive la Cocotte" Coll. F/w 1999-2000 ready-to-wear haute couture coll. F/w 1995-1996 Passage 26. Redingote in turquoise faille silk moiré with antique lace applications on pale grey No 85. historic model based on Boucher’s lace pants ornamented with crystal beads and portrait of Madame de Pompadour; a grey silk taffeta blouse. pink Duchesse satin and lace. Maison Givenchy Collection Vivienne Westwood Ltd Collection People have always been amazed English designer Vivienne Westwood is by the sophistication of 18th century often considered quirky and provocative, men’s clothes, which our contemporaries especially since her punk collections perceive as feminine. Alexander caused a scandal in the 1980's. In the wardrobes. Vivienne Westwood gave the McQueen, then Givenchy’s artistic 1990's she turned to the charms of the Age of Enlightenment fresh impetus. director, revisited the men’s wardrobe 18th century. Passionate about cut and of the Age of Enlightenment to dress technique, she has used ribbons and You can also see her models in the women in precious evening gowns. safety pins, become a master of Aides-de-Camp Room (1), Topographi- The lavishly ornamented model on subversive historical assemblages and cal Room (15) and Garden Room (17). display is a literal quotation of men’s brought frivolity and powdery colours French court suit but here McQueen back to the forefront after years when ironically appropriates it for women. Japanese and Belgian designers' intense Silk was the most commonly used black dominated magazine pages and material for court dresses. Here, thick faille replaces taffeta; satin or velvet and antique silver lace replaces silver thread. Like in the 18th century, aides-de-camp room (1) the empress’s boudoir (2) embroidery patterns adorn the front, collar and wrists. This all belonged to a group of secondary At first, the boudoir communicated with DON’T MISS rooms during the First Empire. Louis-Philippe the neighbouring room through the door The ma hog any tap estr y l o om used it as an aides-de-camp room. on the right. Louis-Philippe had the door ornamented with gilt bronze (1810), left of the fireplace opened to connect it attributed to Alexandre MAIGRET, to the apartment he had built for himself comes from this room. in Louis XIV’s former kitchens. 4 5
  • 5. chanel BY 18th century Karl Lagerfeld fashion: the french court dress Foreground: Spring/Summer 2005 Haute Couture Collection, No. 40. Evening gown: washed white faille silk, blue satin ribbon, bow, round gilded The French court gown, also known in metal brooch ornamented by blue and white beads and white porcelain flowers on a bed of white pearls English as the "robe volante", "robe à la and mother-of-pearl; stiff tulle pleated skirt with a française" or sack-back gown, was a big, pannier effect. flowing coat with a wide, pleated back Background: Autumn/Winter 1992-1993 forming a short train. As the 18th century Haute Couture Collection, No. 97. Bridal ensemble: jacket, gown, crinoline petticoat. progressed it became tighter in front, Jacket: ivory wool tweed, pearly white cellophane hugging the contours of the bust stiffened lined with ivory satin, gilded chain. Dress: by a whalebone corset. The back had a satin-lined tweed; taffeta trimmed with a ribbon. double row of flat double pleats. The dress Maison Chanel Collection became known as the "robe à la française" throughout Europe, where it became Karl Lagerfeld, a collector and a popular from the 1730's. couturier, accumulated a comprehensive collection of 18th century furniture and Wearing a French court dress was the sign objects, eventually selling them of a certain social status: putting one on to purchase designer pieces and required the help of a servant, who had to contemporary works echoing his crawl underneath it to adjust the back stylistic renewal. He finds with laces on the inside. Mademoiselle Chanel’s soft colours in the delicacy of the Age of The French court gown was nicknamed Enlightenment. His mischievous but the "Watteau dress" because the painter knowledgeable take on a French court Antonie Watteau (1684-1721) often gown, all in silk faille, is whimsically depicted his models wearing it. punctuated under the breasts with a blue satin ribbon like the light cotton chiffon dresses at the end of the Room of mirrors (3) century. His Watteau collection’s DON’T MISS  unexpected poetry contrasts with Louis XIV’s former Great Study, where the king Set of mahogany tables delivered to Empress the Chanel label’s strict rigour. met with his privy council. From that period the Marie-Louise in 1810: needlework table, room has kept its cornice and mirrors embedded "letterbox" table, game table, tidy table and in panelling carved with flower garlands. drawing table. 6 7
  • 6. Balenciaga Azzedine Alaïa by Nicolas Ghesquière dress ready-to-wear Coll. s/s 1992 women’s ensemble Lace-up bustier dress with white English ready-to-wear coll. embroidery on petticoat s/s 2006 Azzedine Alaïa Archives Collection Flesh-coloured embroidered organza jacket, flowery ecru lace jacket, off-white organza satin jacket, ecru Azzedine Alaïa’s sensuous fashions lace corset and undergarments, embroidered satin stress the womanly curves that inspire crêpe trousers. him. All the designer keeps of the Maison Balenciaga Collection libertine spirit in his streamlined version of the 18th century are tight Cristòbal Balenciaga often quoted The waistcoats fit tightly around the waists and full bosoms combined Goya’s 18th century: his use of lace – bust. The underskirted coat-tails take with the false rigour of an army jacket usually black – and pink satin ribbons the form of the coat; the wrists adopt or the freshness of English embroidery recalls portraits of the Duchess of Alba. the flounced pagoda sleeves' shape too prim and proper to really be Nicolas Ghesquière pays tribute to that characteristic of mid-18th century believable. This dress is squeezed, White cotton and English embroidery legacy by turning values and colour French court dresses; cropped trousers laced-up top evokes whalebone recall the "negligée" women wore, codes upside-down: men’s clothing replace breeches. corsets, while the wide hips bring which became walking or afternoon where ruffly eggshell and cream lace is panniers to mind. The waisted jacket dress by the late 18th century. omnipresent and transparency stresses featuring big pockets with flaps recalls the martial look of young women a men’s coat. dressed as men. the empress’s bedchamber (4) DON’T MISS The Empress’s Bedchamber still has the carved into a mosaic. During the Empire it was The bed, which was Napoleon’s at the décor of Louis XIV’s bedchamber, which it divided to form a smaller bedroom and Tuileries Palace and where his successor had formerly been: Corinthian columns a sitting room used by Empress Marie-Louise, Louis XVIII, the brother of Louis XVI, dividing the room and panelling admirably who commissioned the furniture you see today. died in 1825. 8 9
  • 7. the 1950's AND Thierry Jacques Comme des Pierre Balmain Mugler Doucet garçons "Antonia" evening "Infante" ball gown dress, circa 1898-1900 Ready-to-wear coll. gown ready-to-wear coll. a/w 2010-2011 Figured black satin, black chantilly bobbin lace, haute couture Coll. F/w 1992-1993 black silk chiffon; gold-printed ivory label: Coat and pants ensemble: cotton cloth and mixed s/s 1954 "DOUCET/21 RUE DE LA PAIX/PARIS" black fibres, shoulder pads, hips and sleeves Barathea and pleated black tulle. Galliera Collections Maison Thierry Mugler Collection fastened to the inside by zips; shaped trousers, Orlon satin embroidered with a panel of gold black chenille braiding on the sides. scrolls, pearly beads, red chiffon rose appliqué Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) was born Galliera Collections patterns, embroidered leaves and two petticoats: Thierry Mugler’s glamorous world horse-hair and double ottoman. into a family that had been making and swings back and forth between 1950's From the Middle Ages to the Age of the Galliera Collections selling clothes since 1816. From 1898 Hollywood and Paris. The designer Enlightenment, extensions, reductions to 1927 he headed one of the biggest goes to great demonstrative lengths to and other inventions attired and The Age of Enlightenment had a couture houses in Paris. Doucet intensify the feminine shapes transformed the body in the West. strong influence on Pierre Balmain. dressed the early 20th century’s most associated with dominating women: Rei Kawakubo explores the relationship The New Look Christian Dior notable women but did not consider ostentation, the theatrical display of between that historical and contemporary launched in 1947 featured narrow himself as a designer and never joined the female body and cruelty, notions fashion, from the removable – and waists and a voluminous skirts the Chambre syndicale de la couture. particular to the 18th century of moveable – bum rolls in his famous supported by thick petticoats; elegant In 1875 he began amassing a large Dangerous Liaisons. His collections Spring/Summer 1997 collection, where women wore girdles and corsets that collection of 18th century French feature outfits the Marquise de the outfits emphasized the figure, to his reshaped their bodies. For evening furniture and artworks that had a Merteuil would have loved. Thierry Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 collection, wear, lavish fabrics and embroidery lasting influence on his own designs. Mugler’s collections offer gowns with from which the outfit on display is taken. preciously dressed 20th century figures In 1912 he sold it in order to focus on volumes recalling the panniers of With their zippered hoops and echoing Age of Enlightenment fashion. contemporary art. formal Court dress. removable quilting, his clothes evoke a late 18th century "Amazon" director Tim Burton would have dreamed up. The black coat is an improbable combination of a woman’s pannier and Chapel room (5) the lord’s room (6) the buttoned-up lapels of certain military coats from the second half Originally built as a chapel, this room cornice decoration has bunches of grapes and The former Lord’s room became the King’s of the 18th century. became an antechamber in 1691 but many ears of wheat evoking the Eucharistic wine and and later the Empress’s First Antechamber. of the original features were kept. bread and paintings depict the Evangelists It still has its 1691-1692 décor, including the The back door opens onto an altar, the Saint Mark and Saint Luke. military trophy on the mantelpiece. 10 11
  • 8. the grand the cotelle trianon gallery (16) In 1687 Jules Hardouin-Mansart built Trianon back to life in 1962-1965, This gallery, which shielded the upper and woodwork sculptures are based the Grand Trianon on the site of the when he had major work done to turn parterre’s flowers from cold weather, on the gardens. "Porcelain Trianon", which Louis XIV the north wing, called "Trianon-sous- is named after the artist Jean Cotelle, had had built in 1670 to flee the stiff bois", into apartments for the French who painted the views of the gardens formality Court etiquette and spend president and foreign heads of State of Versailles and Trianon as they time in private with his mistress, on official visits. looked in Louis XIV’s day: they are Madame de Montespan. The king was precious documents because most the round especially fond of the Trianon, where of the groves they depict have he also came for short stays with his disappeared or been changed. room (8) family: the Grand Dauphin, Duchess of Burgundy and Madame de the peristyle (7) Maintenon. He successively occupied three apartments, in the right wing (1688-1691), the left wing (1691-1703) the trianon This vestibule gave access to the first apartment, which Louis XIV occupied and again in the right wing (1703- The innovative "loggia" piercing gardens just three years, from 1688 to 1691. 1715). The rooms still have most of the Grand Trianon’s centre gives the The Corinthian columns, marble their 17th century wall decoration: building its transparency and connects paving and paintings date from that finely carved panelling painted white, the courtyard and gardens. French period. A wooden drum to the right with no gilding. doors on the courtyard side originally Trianon is the "Palais de Flore": of the fireplace conceals the staircase Marie Leszczinska also liked the closed this gallery, wrongly called a every room has a view of the gardens, musicians climbed to reach the gallery Grand Trianon, where she lived in the peristyle ever since Louis XIV had it which are entirely devoted to flowers in the room next door, where the summer, but Marie-Antoinette built. A few years later they were here. Many varieties were chosen king’s souper took place. preferred the Petit Trianon, offered to eliminated to emphasize the building’s for their colours and smells. her by Louis XVI. All of the Grand transparency. In 1810 Napoleon had "The tuberoses make us flee Trianon Trianon’s furniture was sold during the peristyle glazed to facilitate every evening," Madame de the French Revolution. Napoleon I communication between his apartment Maintenon wrote in a letter on restored and remodelled the palace, and that of the Empress. 8 August 1689. "The smell is so where he stayed many times with his strong it makes men and women wife, Empress Marie-Louise. Louis- alike feel ill." All the décor, paintings Philippe went there with his family. General de Gaulle brought the Grand 12 13
  • 9. maison martin fashion margiela accessoires Boué Sœurs In the 18th century accessories, like clothes, fulfilled two women’s ensemble purposes: they were vectors of fashion and conspicuous s/s 1993 Coll. displays of luxury. Jewels and jewellery were inseparable "romance" gown, from women’s formal court dress. embroidery from the Re-use of a waistcoat from a theatre costume: lesage house, black velvet, black cotton cloth lining, braiding The panoply of accessories was much richer than it is today: winter 1925-1926 applications of gilded metallic threads; removable lace sleeves, fans, gloves, mittens, purses, clutch long straight skirt in striped black and white bags and precious shoes, often made with embroidered silk, Machine-made black Chantilly lace, polychrome chiné wool. taffeta and chiffon flowers, green and ochre wool Galliera Collections rounded out women’s outfits. In the 1770's-1780's powdered thread; modern backing; white label with orange hair was topped by hats, poufs or big bonnets ornamented weave. Martin Margiela’s 1991 and 1993 with feathers, gauze, birds and other fanciful decoration Galliera Collections abundantly illustrated in the nascent fashion press. Spring/Summer collections offer a contemporary take on the In 1899 Sylvie and Jeanne Boué opened Eighteenth-century accessories have not inspired 18th century by re-employing a fashion house that remained active contemporary designers as much as clothes, but today’s a 1950's dress he found at the flea until 1935. The sisters' quest for beads, bows and brilliants reflect a certain amount market and old stage costumes. modernity did not stop them from of continuity, as the contemporary items in these showcases The designer, using their patina drawing inspiration from earlier alongside 18th century objects suggest. and worn-out look as raw materials, periods, in particular that of Louis XV. intelligently deconstructed the The "period dress" they invented at the pieces and transformed them same time as Jeanne Lanvin took up from stage costumes into clothes. certain 18th-century codes: pannier, lace and fabric flowers. the emperor’s family room (9) At first this room housed a theatre that turned them into a room for meetings of the DON’T MISS was replaced by Louis XIV’s last imperial family and important guests. The purple breccia fireplace dating from apartment, which Louis XV transformed The furniture dates from that period. Louis XV. into reception rooms in 1750. Napoleon 14 15
  • 10. Maison Christian Dior "doutzen kroes" dress haute couture coll. F/W 2007-2008 Shot pink silk taffeta dress based on Fragonard, veiled with candy pink tulle Maison Christian Dior Archives Collection Since 1997 Dior’s couturier shows, lavish spectacles in their own right, have blurred the traditional boundaries between fashion and stage costumes, offering mirror images of 18th century styles – outfits of fairies and princesses that would make the queens and favourites in our history books turn green with envy. You can also see Maison Dior models in the Chapel Room (5) and the Malachite Room (13). queen of the belgians' bedchamber (10) DON’T MISS This room, formerly the bedchamber Louis-Philippe turned it into reception The gilded wooden bed JACOB- and drawing room of Louis XIV’s third rooms and an apartment for his son-in- DESMALTER delivered in 1809 for apartment, was used as a dining room law and his daughter, the queen of the Empress Josephine at the Tuileries under Louis XV and the First Empire. Belgians. Palace. Enlarged and modified for this 16 room in 1845. 17
  • 11. Yohji rochas by yamamoto olivier theyskens men’s ensemble, women’s ensemble ready-to-wear, A/w 2006 s/s 2011 Jacket and skirt made for the release of Sofia 4 pieces: 1 shirt + 1 waistcoat + 1 pair of Coppola’s film Marie-Antoinette; grey tulle, breeches + 1 jabot; grey and white. fake hair, crinoline. Yohji Yamamoto Archives Collection. Galliera Collections Yohji Yamamoto based his Spring/ When Olivier Theyskens was art Summer 2011 menswear fashion director at Rochas he offered a show entirely on the late 18th century recomposed version of an 18th century men’s wardrobe. The rigour and woman’s outfit, turning the dress into simplicity of bewigged men’s outfits a short jacket and a skirt. The collared recall the 1780's, when Anglomania, You can also see a Yohji Yamamoto jacket takes the form of the redingote synonymous with comfort and model in the Lord’s Room (6). dress, a masculine version of the "robe naturalness, reigned supreme. à l’anglaise"; the skirt rests on an early In contrast, black and white 18th century bell-shaped pannier. The houndstooth wool and sensuous flounces at the wrists evoke the lace that beige leather turn pannier dresses was sewn onto court dresses' sleeves. into half-tamed contemporary American actress Kirsten Dunst wore city wear. this dress during a Vogue photo shoot. music room (11) Former antechamber of Louis XIV’s The panelling is among the palace’s oldest. DON’T MISS apartment, where the king’s souper Above the doors, notice the shutters of the The chairs covered in Beauvais upholstery took place. Napoleon turned it into the gallery where musicians played during the made for this room. Officers' Room and Louis-Philippe into meal. the Billiard Room. 18 19
  • 12. Jean Paul malachite Gaultier room (13) women’s ensemble Louis XIV’s former room of the Setting haute couture Sun, was turned into a bedchamber for s/s 1998, "les marquis the Duchess of Burgundy. Under Napoleon, it touaregs" coll. became the Emperor’s Room, where Pannier jacket, lamé, tulle, flounces, ruches, bows. Tsar Alexander I’s gifts of malachite Jean Paul Gaultier Maison Collection were displayed, hence its name, the Malachite room. Jean Paul Gaultier takes delight Dress displayed: in mixing up men’s and women’s Christian Dior Maison wardrobes. In his spring/summer Autumn/winter 2004/2005 haute couture dress. 1994 collection the iconoclastic couturier put men’s French denim jackets on women. The spring/ topographical summer 1998 "Les Marquis Touaregs" the cool collection combined a new vision room (14) room (15) of Marie-Antoinette’s century with a relaxed, casual, contemporary attitude. The Duchess of Burgundy used this The Cool Room owes its name to room, which was designed in the its northern exposure. This is where perspective of the gallery next door, Napoleon held his cabinet meetings called the Cool Room in the 17th century, and Charles X bid farewell to his as her main drawing room. Under the ministers on 31 July 1830. Empire it was known as the Emperor’s Main Drawing Room and used to hold louis-philippe’s family room (12) Models displayed: cabinet meetings until the Restoration. Semi-linen French court dress and "robe à l’anglaise". Dress displayed: Louis-Philippe had two smaller rooms evenings. Brion furnished it in the spirit Vivienne Westwood combined to create this large one, where of the times: game and needlework tables, Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 1991. the king and his family, who enjoyed padded chairs and sofas upholstered in staying at Trianon, gathered in the yellow figured fabric with blue patterns. 20 21
  • 13. Haute couture autumn/winter 1995. Evening gown. Brocade busk with antique gold relief underlined by patinated metal and embroidered on large matching skirt. Christian Lacroix Maison Collection. © Marcio MADEIRA / Zeppelin. Christian Lacroix women’s ensemble spring/summer 1994 3 pieces: 1 top + 1 skirt + 1 necklace. Evening gown, pastel flowered damask patchwork busk embroidered with jewels, taffeta gingham skirt, iridescent lace appliqués, embroidered birds, butterflies and bouquets. Christian Lacroix quotes the 18th century through the lens of the 1940s, 50s and 60s for theatre and opera costumes as well as haute couture collections. In 1987 he turned his models into marquises who looked good enough to eat. The designer’s passionate interest in art informs his mythology, where dresses are sometimes paintings that are visited and revisited as though they were hanging in an ideal imaginary museum. the garden room (17) The Garden Room’s six windows open billiard room under Napoleon. The door out onto the little staggered rows and the left of the fireplace leads to the Trianon- perspective of the Grand Canal. This was sous-Bois wing. a game room under Louis XIV and a 22 23
  • 14. design Credits: photo on left: © Andy Julia; photo on right: Photography: Chloé Le Drezen / Hair-Make-up: Luc Drouen @Mod's Hair / Costume: Atelier Les Vertugadins Around the exhibition Useful game-booklet competition information ! à gagner de e une rob et un e princess eau » ! et Exhibition from 8 July to kit « chât Encore Eux – © Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 1996, Marcio MADEIRA - Zeppelin/J. M. Manaï/Ch. Milet/Thinkstock vous proposent 9 October 2011. Open every le livret‑jeu de l’exposition « Le xviiie au goût du jour ‑ day except Monday from Couturiers et créateurs de mode au Grand Trianon » jusqu’au 9 octobre 2011 organisée avec le Musée And you, what’s your 18th century style? noon to 6:30pm s ant enf les ur Po (last admission at 6pm). The Palace of Versailles, together with l’Express Styles and Le Bon Marché www.bubblemag.fr www.chateauversailles.fr 1 Rive Gauche, is organising a design competition: by showing just a detail Free for children four to 12. or the full outfit, you too can revisit the Age of Enlightenment by posting Exhibition accessible with Available at information points a photo of your clothes, hairstyles or accessories inspired by this era. A the Passeport ticket or the ticket and the exhibition entrance. panel of judges, made up of fashion professionals and The Cherry Blossom for the Trianon Palaces and With a game-contest to win Girl and Miss Pandora bloggers, will decide on the three best styles. Marie-Antoinette’s Estate. a real tailor-made princess’s To take part, post a photo of your style on: dress or a "palace kit". www.concoursdestyle.chateauversailles.fr Free for European Union residents under 26. exhibition catalogue THE 18TH CENTURY BACK IN FASHION vogue at Versailles Mises en résonance avec les chefs-d’œuvre des collections du musée Galliera, les créations des plus grands couturiers contemporains témoignent d'une commune fascination pour un XVIIIe siècle fantasmé : Lagerfeld invite Watteau et ses robes LE XVIIIE AU GOÛT DU JOUR à la française chez Chanel, Galliano fait défiler chez Dior des princesses de contes de fées, Westwood redonne vie à des courtisanes et marquises plutôt délurées... Setting up the exhibition, Riche d’un superbe portfolio mêlant gravures et pièces des XVIIIe, XIXe, XXe et XXIe siècles, ce catalogue constitue un véritable hommage au style des Lumières et à Versailles, berceau de la mode. Harmonizing with the masterpieces from the Galliera museum, creations by the greatest contemporary couturiers reveal a shared fascination for an idealized 18th century: Lagerfeld invites Watteau and his robes à la française into Chanel’s House, Galliano has fairytale princesses model for Dior, Westwood brings to life saucy marquises and courtesans… With a wealth of engravings and pieces from the 18th, 19th, 20th and 21st centuries, this catalogue is a hymn to commissioner’s guided tour, the style of the Age of Enlightenment and Versailles, the birthplace of fashion. LE XVIIIe AU GOÛT DU JOUR COUTURIERS ET CRÉATEURS DE MODE interviews with designers: extend AU GRAND TRIANON THE 18TH CENTURY BACK IN FASHION COUTURIERS AND FASHION DESIGNERS IN THE GRAND TRIANON ISBN : 978-2-85495-450-0 -:HSMIPE=^ZYZUU: your visit to the exhibition at 23 e Bilingual (French-English) 96-page work published www.vogue.fr/vogue-a-versailles by Éditions Artlys Available at the Palace of win: Versailles RMN shops and >A photo session with www.boutique-chateauversailles.fr the magazine l’Express Styles >A fashion lesson with Gilles Rosier, >Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche gift cards, > or maybe cameras.
  • 15. ÉTABLISSEMENT PUBLIC DU CHÂTEAU, DU MUSÉE ET DU DOMAINE DE VErSAILLES Rp 834 - 78008 Versailles cedex Information and booking: 01 30 83 78 00 00 www.chateauversailles.fr sponsored by Exhibition commissioner Olivier Saillard Director of the Galliera Museum, City of Paris Fashion Museum Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros, head curator at the Museum, City of Paris Fashion Museum Laurent Cotta, in charge of contemporary design at the Galliera Museum, City of Paris Fashion Museum The texts for this brochure were written by Laurent Cotta, Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros, Delphine Jaulhac, Anne de Nesle, Olivier Saillard. In media partnership with